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Go /p/ro:
• Please post images that are JPG format and ideally smaller than 1 MB, and/or about 1000 pixels on the longest side.
• Expect to be judged harshly. Learn to deal with it.

• We come here for photos, so post yours as often as possible, even if "image unrelated" to your text.
• "Flickr/500px/Tumblr/Facebook/Portfolio" threads are for critique and networking.
• Use "Recent Photos" threads if you are shy or only want to post a couple of photos.
• Shared raw files which we can collectively edit for discussion of post-processing techniques, are encouraged.
• Use the Catalog to consolidate similar topics (photographic themes, images or technical gear threads).

Do not want:
• Go to /wsr/ or /r/ for specific Photoshop requests.
• Gear threads are discouraged, but identified as necessary. Many users simply hide these threads.

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Would painting the back of my camera's film door with vanta black make halations go away?
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Should I shoot raw+jpeg?
thats a man
it depends. shoot raw if you need the utmost editing flexibility (recovering shadows, highlights, dynamic range, retaining IQ in higher iso, etc). shoot jpeg if you want the effect straight from camera, smaller file size, faster transfer, but less flexibility when editing. if you need both, it's fine.
Shoot in RAW, pirate Adobe Lightroom
Just importing to lightroom and clicking the AUTO option will give you far better results than your onboard camera JPEG exports.
Don't care.

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>walk through the city for a couple hours
>feel really weird holding a camera
>glance around in different directions and around corners for compositions
>probably look like a super sketchy piece of shit
>feel nervous and guilty and shitty for 2 hours straight
>miss a few obvious opportunities because it feels like you're a fucking faggot
>take a roll of completely useless photos of nothing because they were easy to get
>go home and feel like shit
>consider exposing the roll to the sun to avoid having to look at it later
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Exposure ModeAuto
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Subject Distance RangeUnknown
>look mom iam a streetphotographer now
>gonna post this on 4chan and add something degrading to it
you're a pathetic loser and you should stop photographing.
i hate to see pathetic people like this anon taking random ass ugly images just because there's something called streetphotography
does't mean that you can jump into it for the sake of owning a stupid digital camera...that has nothing to do with streetphotography. it's not a fucking sport or lifestyle. once you delivered a real streetphoto people will recognize, it will speak for itself. not just by running around and taking snapshits of random people from far ahead. it has nothing to do with it you stupid ass fat hobbit
afraid of getting confronted by the weirdos anon?
t. rabid black gorilla
have you tried any big cities? Once you learn to stop being a pussy you can just take pics of people and not care.

Nobody will say anything, and if they do then tell them to fuck off.

I'm in the UK and one of my best experiences was shooting in Brighton in fair/cold weather

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what genre of photography is devoid of any effort and why is it landscape?
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>takes a picture of a box on the side of the street
>calls it "street photography"
>slaps a b & w filter on it

Street is the absolute laziest thing.
Seriously WHY are there so many boomers in landscape
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fuck up nigga
>what is boudoir

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pros and cons of using auto iso?

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>Imagine showing someone your photo and then saying "and I set the ISO MYSELF!"
Holy shit lmao. I am unironically never setting iso manually again.
>landscapes, studio portraits and architecture
There's tons of styles in those faggot.
Let me guess, you shoot street and think using B&W makes you an artist.
If you think that one of your biggest contributions to a photo is adjusting a setting that can be easily automated by 1970s-era consumer electronic technology, you’re likely correct, but you should also probably be trying harder to add value to your photos beyond that.
Pro: you can give your camera to a monkey and they'll take photos indistinguishable from your own

Con: monkeys are pretty smart and have unionised so good look fighting the court battle of IP rights
>pros and cons of using auto iso?
Modern auto ISO with your own limiter will do what you want in almost all situations OTHER than when using strobes.

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Where do you dumb dumbs think photography is headed as we slowly march into the future?

Compact bodies died ten years ago.
"Real" camera sales are circling the drain.
Photokina is dead.
Instagram is dead.
Flickr is dead.
Product photography is dead, all the big companies now use CGI for ads.

There are no great, famous photographers generating headlines like Gursky did two decades ago.

What's left? What's the future hold? Will video kill the photography star? Will it even survive as an art form?
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>You'll never travel
> never see a concert that isn't done with Social Distancing
Multiple check
>never fly first class
> never know what an airport was like before 9/11
Fair point
>never have access to good acid
It's nice to see retarded boomers
> never run from the cops
>never get drunk and sneak over the Cambodian border

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Photography will survive as art.

No one wants to take snapshots anymore, maybe for Instagram and other social networks, but there will be always people that enjoy expressing themselves through a lens.
>there will be always people that enjoy expressing themselves through a lens
I thought that was called chaturbate

That's also correct, some people like it, that's why it is still alive.
Well said.

>get two xpans because of my schizoid fantasies of elevating the art of panoramic street photography with my future girlfriend
>forgot that im a schizoid with no friends or social skills

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you know you'd fuck him anyway faggot
That’s not a hasselblad

Oh look, it's the "i can bench 100lb" guy. Lmfao.

Stop samefagging
The 100lb benchpressing chad hates Fujifilm though
Thank fuck. Hasselblad is awful and gay

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Trucker snapshits edition

Film Community Links:

Old thread >>3868439

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You can color correct in post, but it's not optimal, because your photo never exposed enough of some color frequencies in the first place. So you can remove the yellow cast, but the photo will look noisy because the blue channel is severely underexposed.
The correct way to compensate for artificial ligting with films is to use filters like 80B or fluorescent filter when making exposure.
It means that the film can "see" a wider range of light to dark in a single exposure. Wide latitude means you can get detail in both the highlights and shadows. Slide film is known for a very narrow latitude - if there is a big difference between the highlights and shadows, you can't get detail in both.
Here's a quick way to figure out how efficiently you can correct white balance in post: look up the filter needed to correct the white balance for the lighting conditions you have.
Then check how many stops that is. The more the stops, the harder it will be to correct with acceptable quality.
1/3rd of a stop is easy to correct, 1 stop and above is hard. Tungsten for instance needs an 80A filter, which is two stops. This will be hard to correct because effectively if you shoot unfiltered, you're underexposing the blue-sensitive layer by 2 stops, and negative film doesn't record much when underexposed, so lots of the blue information is lost.

If you want best results, you need tungsten balance, there's no other way around it.
To achieve that, either use an 80A filter or tungsten balanced film (only cine film comes in tungsten now), if you have access to it.

Alternatively, use flash, since flashlights are daylight balanced.
There are ways to achieve very natural results with flash *and* tungsten light indoors, if you're up for it. The trick is to *almost* balance flash with the tungsten in terms of temperature, as well as give soft "natural" looking light.
For the softness, you bounce the flash on a ceiling or wall.
For the *almost* balancing with tungsten light, you use a CTO gel on the flash, say a 1/2 strength. Then also a filter on the lens that cancels out the flash, say an 80C. Such a filter will give almost neutral illumination to everything lit by the flash, and the rest of the tungsten lightsources will be visibly warmer but not too yellow (this is the reason for the almost matching the sources with the flash, if you match them completely they'll turn neutral white and not look very natural).
Then you can finetune colour temperature in post a bit, adjusting to taste for atmosphere.
>what does that mean exactly?
It normally means the having the ability to record details from quite dark areas to quite bright areas in a contrasty scene, without losing detail to "crushed" shadows (i.e. turning fully black) or "blown" highlights (i.e. turning fully white).
Negative film has, usually, a wide latitude. The less contrasty a film is, the more latitude it has.
Almost all of this latitude though is towards the highlights, i.e. it'll be fine a bit (or a lot) overexposed, but not underexposed.
Contrary to what the article states, no film has 2 stops underexposure latitude (i.e. turning fine if underexposed two stops).
Realistically it'll be fine half a stop underexposed, or maybe 1 stop at most and that is a stretch. 2 stops underexposed won't be very usable, shadows will be completely crushed and full of colour casts, exacerbated from the scanning software that will try to bring them up. So when you're in doubt, with negative film, it's safer to overexpose.

>and then pushing/pulling during dev?
No not that. Just shooting under/over (or shooting a very contrasty scene that has very dark parts and very bright pars), but developing normally.
Pushing or pulling in colour film is used much more rarely than in B&W. Mostly because you get crossover (colour casts in shadows *and* in highlights, different to each other) that is hard to correct. You'll have to either live with a cast in the shadows, or in the highlights, since correcting one makes the other worse.
Some films behave better in that regard, i.e. their crossover is more limited when pushed, so if you *have* to push you're better served by those films.
But this is clearly stated/advertised as such, and not included in the generic statements about latitude and dynamic range.

Btw anon that article you linked is not very good.

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Thank you Giannis.

>if you shoot unfiltered, you're underexposing the blue-sensitive layer by 2 stops
>Almost all of this latitude though is towards the highlights, i.e. it'll be fine a bit (or a lot) overexposed
Does this mean if I'm (mis)using a daylight film indoors or at dawn/dusk I can overexpose to give the film more blue information and then darken the overall exposure in post? I'm not totally against using filters - they just seem a bit of a hassle if I want to take a quick snap indoors.

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i am sorry that a thread had to die for this but I don't know what to do guys. i need to hear some wisdom or common sense.

I'm a cinema student in a third-world country and I've got almost zero experience with cameras. should I invest half of my wealth and buy xt4 with an 18-55 kit lens? because I really don't want to buy a new camera in the near future or changing my career plan and xt4 seems solid. the answer might be a clear yes but i also think I didn't use my android phone's camera to its limits. i mean i didn't shoot anything which makes me said "i wish i had a better camera" and it makes me self-doubting really. learning how to operate a camera and being able to apply for jobs are big advantages but then buying a cheaper camera comes to mind.

what do you guys think I should do?
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>in my autism echo chamber everyone downloads movies in 4K!
who would have guessed, you should try going out
As long as you make 1 movie it'll be all worth while
>invest half of my wealth and buy xt4 with an 18-55 kit lens?

If you’re just starting out, pick up something like an X-T30 or even something older like an X-T200, and get it used if you can. It won’t be as good as the X-T4, but if all you’ve used is a cellphone, it’ll still be a huge step up and won’t cost you half of your money. Don’t upgrade to the shiniest high end camera until you can clearly articulate why you need something better.
Are you cute? Boy or girl? If boy are you twink-ish? I have t-30 I don't need, I can give it to you but I have same conditions. Write your email or telegram
Why would you not download things in 4k? Who doesn't have a 4k TV and fibre broadband? How fucking impoverished do you think everyone is?
This comment said a lot more about how poor you are than anything else.

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What focal length is closest to the human eye?
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That's distorted because it was shot with a fisheye lens, dummy. Fisheye lenses introduce optical distortion, which is distinctly different from perspective.
yeah i always thought it was 35mm but kind of based on nothing
i feel like 50 is too narrow
>closest to the human eye
Unironically the one you have with you, kek.
I just hope it's not a Kodak Aero Ektar, you don't want that heavily thoriated glass close to your eye.

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• Theme: Animals
• Deadline: From May 8. to May 24.

Take photographic content featuring animals with exclusion of humanoids.

• Photo must be taken during the timeline. Images taken before this thread was started won't count.
• Post images with exif, if possible. If you can't, just state that they were taken during the timeline.
• Three entries per photographer max.
• After the competition ends, all valid images will be posted for voting. There will be one vote per anon.

• You're encouraged to post your images that fit the theme even if they're out of competition.
• You may title your images if you wish.
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Mine got zero votes, but I did phone it in a bit, and also the one I voted for won, so I guess it’s okay.

There were some really good shots in that challenge.
Sugars shots, some of the zero votes really didn't deserve to be that low. But you get only one vote, and I went with that train. I think that the old system of multiple votes per voter would be fairer.
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Babby Birb

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Since /p/ is a slower board, it might be better to have later photo challenges go for a full month. Get more submissions in that way.

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May 2021 Edition... The end is surely near?
All video related questions and discussion is intended for this thread. Here we discuss techniques, gear and anything else related to capturing video footage. Please don't pretend to be an expert if you don't know what you're talking about. Kindly leave your ego at the door.
Posting short films/scripts or other work you've done is encouraged.
We tend to use and recommend DSLRs/mirrorless cameras because they provide phenomenal picture quality for their price, have large sensors (ie the same size used in high-end cinema cameras and higher) and have interchangeable lenses.
In contrast, consumer camcorders normally have much smaller sensors and a fixed lens.

>STICKY - https://pastebin.com/35u6DcnF
>Helpful guide, additional books and more in-depth FAQs - https://web.archive.org/web/20200926115310/https://pastebin.com/kG0gRmTZ


Previous thread >>3853817

Quick FAQS
>what’s the best camera available on a “budget”?

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>looking into gimbals
>a big majority of them have tilted horizons

Are people fucking blind, not tweaking it, or is this some kind of ancient mystery that the companies hasn't solved yet??
>Are people fucking blind
people are are lazy and don't give a fuck
it's very easy to correct on most gimbals, but obviously the main target audience of cheap gimbals can't be bothered
Nah, waste of money sinking money into that sinking ship.
a6600 is a sinking ship?
Nah, youtube.

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Hi /p/,
Hope you're doing well with the covid stuff ongoing.
I have some night photos to share with you. Hope you like this photo dump~
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Nice thread, OP. Makes me want to buy a little tripod to take around with me.
damn get out of my hometown you son of a bitch what are you doing there don't talk to my mom I swear to god
Thanks. A tripod is cumbersome, but setting up one to take a shot is fun sometimes. Like a little ritual.

I'll talk to them mothers whenever I want :))
don't make me whip your ass with bamboo
Super cool thread and atmosphere, this is why I still come to this place
Thanks OP

>5 gorrilion pointless """"""kodachrome"""""" recipes that don't look like film anyway
>not a single recipe emulating CCD colors of classic digital cameras

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>being wrong
>Sitting down at a computer to use 4chan seriously

Yikes, that's fucking cringe.
breathtakingly incorrect. it's easy to imagine a b+w photo with 4 colours as a counter example.
what camera was this taken on? looks like film
>A black and white photo with 4 colours
What? white, black, grey and grey 2?
Nice brain lad.

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Internet content creators edition

Old thread: >>3870388

>All discussion and questions related to gear should take place in this exact thread
>Redirect other gear-related threads to this thread
>Remember to be polite.
>This is the thread in which you can be a gearfag
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*correction K-3 II
>fucking Motorolla
Really not sure they're water spot calcium / other mineral deposits. This stuff is typically not in (typically isopropyl alcohol or whatever) lens cleaner.

I'm going again with oil/lubricant or something like that was just moved without actually being part of the cleaner fluid. The point mainly being that the cleaning fluid might actually help to remove it if it only smears otherwise.
>Not very water or dustproof obviously
Sigma are notorious for shitty build quality, they throw all the money into glass and R&D
If you get hit by the aperture block problem, bring it into service, Pentax is still doing the low price repair.
Make a drybox out of a sealed plastic container and a bag of dessiccant, put the lens in for a day or two first

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