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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Thread Moving So Fast Nobody Will Notice I'm A Boat Edition
Old thread: >>1959679
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S

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Forgot image.
You were just supposed to cut them, not scissor them
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What's a good PETG brand/filament? I'm looking at reviews on Amashit and almost every filament has a bunch of negative reviews. I really can't decide. Any recommendations? What works for you guys?

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Did anyone here manage to get one of these? I completely forgot about it until a day after and it was already sold out.
What does it do my ts100 doesn't?
tells you if you're pregnant
It's $25

these dudes started demo a month ago and theres still holes and bare concrete everywhere and a sponge in the toiler pipe. theyve tiled the bottom of the shower and put some mold proof material and support lumbar for a new wall but otherwise shit is basically as it was demoed. i called the project manager and she said it would probably be done by jan 1st (eight weeks). ive been living with my parents in the interim and they and everyone else over for thanksgiving now hate me. am i ever getting my house back or should i just kms
You're getting fucked but i have no advice to offer, I got like 10% off because they fucked my bathroom up so bad.

Call and scream at the boss to light a fire under them.

Go back while they are doing drywall and make sure they aren't leaving any piss bottles in the walls.

You could try hiring some one else but they could fuck you in just the same way.

Dont let them expand the scope of work or give you a credit application. If they do, have them finish the walls and gtfo and do the finish work yourself over the next year.

Solder paste is was too expensive edition

100% brand new from factory guaranteed work thread >>1957408

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:
Don't ask, roll:
https://github.com/Rocheez/4chan-electronics-challenges/blob/master/list-of-challenges.png.png (embed) (embed)

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Repost since last thread ended.

I plan to rig up a solar-powered aircon system using 2ndhand car components in my summer break (I'm a mechanic and can get this shit cheap), my electronics knowledge starts and ends with cars and 12 volt systems.

Presumably I can get an off-the-shelf system to handle charging the car batteries with the solar panels, but I want to be able to have the system turn on when the interior temperature of the shed reaches a set point, and also have a way to prevent draining the batteries too much; Would running it with an arduino or something be worthwhile, or are there simpler options?
Okay ish

Desktop fans might not have enough static pressure do this efficiently
No way cause the filters are already used.
Pretty sure flex PCBs are more expensive than FR4 PCBs.

Because PCBs use a series of very standardised thicknesses and are easy to laminate together like that. Making custom shaped ferrite cores is more difficult, and it also requires professional magnetism simulation to make in the first place.

The actual manufacturing process is winding copper around a core, which is not a parallelisable task like PCB photomasking and etching is. Twice the wire = twice the time, compared to an etch bath or exposure taking a fixed amount of time and can be done as batches of dozens of boards at once without needing dozens of machines. Also winding tricky toroidal cores might require some pretty complicated machinery.

Conventional E-I and bobbin cores are easy to wind and easy to assemble, and come in a series of standard sizes, so should be easy to manufacture with custom turns. But for inductors these already exist in every inductance you’d ever want, and possibly the same for transformers too. I’m imagining that product designers will mostly be buying off the shelf magnetics except for when they really need custom magnetic cores too. There’s a relatively large freedom when selecting an inductor or transformer, so long as the turns ratio and inductances are close enough to what you initially designed for, the slight differences can be compensated by changing the cheaper surrounding parts (transistor selection, capacitor size, reference voltage, etc.). Only if you’re right up against the edge of one of your parts will you need a specific magnetic device, which is a sign of bad design. Or if you need something so far away from what already exists, in which case you need to rethink your design or hope you’ve got sufficient volumes to justify expensive custom magnetics.
Look at an internal transistor diagram of how an op-amp is constructed. Something simple like a 741. It should be fairly obvious that an input voltage outside of the rails won’t result in proper behaviour. As the other guy says, op-amps are designed to be used with negative feedback, while comparators are the equivalent part that doesn’t use negative feedback and only output Vcc or Vee.

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not sure if this is the right board, but I figure /b/ would talk trash. I currently have a galaxy s7 phone and need a new phone but I'm not sure what to get. I'm an adroid person. I see far more galaxy phones that ever before. There's really no order to them anymore. I can tell straight away that an s9 is newer than an s7 but they have "Galaxy A20, A50, J3" and I'm clueless what's comparable to my s7. Anyone have advice? straight talk btw
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I will check that one out.

that's awesome thank you!!
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I would go with this. No tracking or recording devices. Doesn't need a power source or batteries. Cheapest type there is. Extremely unlikely to be lost, stolen or damaged.
Literally no downside.
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>have to use a heat gun to change a battery
OP, look into motorola's lower end. I buy a new moto g (now they're just called motorola power, or motorola edge or some shit) every year usually around $150. currently I got the G7, haven't experienced slowdowns or anything of the sort yet.
I have an S10e and love it. Its small, cheap and its a fast phone.

Only other option I like is the S20FE thats also a good phone.

Old one autosaging

Heard some activity in the attic and found this evidence. Any idea what I’m dealing with? Found an empty nut case so I’m thinking squirrels.
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Should I repair this myself?
My landlord is lagging on few different repairs, so I feel like it'd be easy to take care of this myself, yeah?
all for under $30?

Of course I can't be sure this is the case, but I wouldn't want my landlord to treat me differently because I need so many repairs (not my fault, but it has happened before), I wouldn't want them to fix this one thing before the outstanding requests, and I wouldn't want to lose out on any sort of parking spots due to predjudice

Sure the squeaky wheel gets the oil, but the annoying Karen gets booted out of the store

The worst that could happen is that my repair fails or some other renter has to deal with it after I'm gone
You forgot one!

And yes, they all kind of have different jobs, and each of those jobs, it’s never exactly the right tool for the job but you’re grabbing the channellocks, vise grips, or crescent wrench because you don’t have the proper wrench or the fastener is fucked up and the proper wrench won’t fit,
The laser distance measurers are supposed to be quite accurate, but I imagine they’re for a rough estimate of square footage rather than making final cuts.

The laser level looks sweet for trying to hang and position stuff on walls, indoor and outdoor. But that’s a bit of a tossup because the pricing is all over the place like $30 up to $300+ depending on model. They must work fairly well tho, they’re quite popular and every major brand has them. Bosch doesn’t tend to release 5+ different models of a tool unless it works.
I had a laser tape, and I threw it in the garbage. That shit would constantly change settings to give me wrong measurements. It was capable of accuracy but to do so was more difficult than just using a tape. Laser levels are awesome though.
UPS driver, rubber palm coated gloves (the ones with the super textured surface) give the best grip, but they don't lost that long, I get about 2wks out of a pair

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My induction cooktop stopped working. If I turn it on it will shut off again in like 3 seconds. I'm hungry. What do?
What did Bing tell you?
idk, my boss bought all new kitchen appliances and shit. he spent like $3000 on his cooktop and apparently it's already fucking up. anyways id call customer service and see what they have to say. this is what you get for being a beta tester.
Most induction cooktops have a magnetic sensor that will detect if a proper pot/pan is placed on it, and when it is removed, will automatically shut off the coils.
Maybe it's shot? Or that pan isn't a ferrous induction pan?
Ah the new iStove. Only approved apple pots and pans will work with it
i dont get the induction meme, aside from boiling water is bare electric coil not enough? or electric glass top? or gas? plus using those you can use whatever pot or pan you want

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I'd like to add an LED to this screen so i can see it better any help would be apreciated I't has 12v and a 5v power that ive found
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You should look at one of those gameboy backlight panels from handheld legend. I believe they run off of 5v.

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If it doesn't work it's because you broke it edition.

Here we discuss microcontrollers and microcontroller accessories, such as Arduinos (ATmegas), attinys, ESP32, RPI, the viagra pill STM32 and others

old boy >>1938160
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>Over half of the seven million Raspberry Pi units we sell each year go into industrial and commercial applications, from digital signage to thin clients to process automation. Many of these applications use the familiar single-board Raspberry Pi, but for users who want a more compact or custom form factor, or on-board eMMC storage, Compute Module products provide a simple way to move from a Raspberry Pi-based prototype to volume production.
>from https://www.raspberrypi.org/blog/raspberry-pi-compute-module-4/
This is the current absolute state of modern meme maker hardware design. I dabbled with RPis years ago and they were flaky pieces of garbage. They aren't suited for realtime deterministic execution and don't even have a hardware watchdog and people are putting them in process automation, god help us.
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Better not read this article, then:
The absolute state of mankind.
nvidia SBC boards. xavier, jetson, nano. all are better than the pi at processing speed. nano 2gb is the same price as a pi. for $100ish you can get a 4gb version.
What about sticking with Pi and getting a Coral TPU accelerator usb dongle thing?
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Am brainlet trying to port some ugly ass C code to an 8051.

I have an AT89C51 and PICkit 4. Is the pin diagram shown correct or do i need some line driver bullshit?

Also, I have an external oscillator on the AT89C51 if it matters.

metal detecting

are there any brands to look for? brands to avoid? I'm looking for something around 300$

I know I'll need to get a pin pointer as well so that should factor into the 300.

What features are there to look for?
I own the one pictured. great for getting beer tabs out of yard.

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I want to replace this kitchen faucet but literally every single faucet you can buy now has an attached handle or side handles that are all one piece.

Will it work fine if I just buy one with a handle on it and leave the handle fully "open", controlling the water with the existing handle? Sorry if this is a simple/stupid question but like most people I don't know anything about plumbing at all.
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Things I dont like mean I cant understand them? Yeah you sound pretty intelligent.
>Try adjusting the temp without fucking up the pressure, or the other way around.

that is exactly what I mean , if you can't make it function correctly , which apparently you can not , then you should not use them . and have an adult do it for you. so you don't hurt yourself.

>Things I dont like mean I cant understand them
I would agree with you but this seems like a redundant post
>offers no help then shitposts
why are you here?
So there you are just accepting garbage, because that's all you know? There are better options, you just have to find them.
I have offered help and a suggested fix for the vagueness of OPs post .
since he has not explained what the actually problem is with the original fixture.

what OP has done is make a thread asking a vague set of questions about a supposed fix that will not work for a variety of reasons.
OP has not given anymore information or answered any of the questions posed by other anons.
on the other hand has answered several posts attacking anons for their posts.
because you want attention.

in short YOU are the shit poster

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What's the most based trade to get into? I'm looking to get into a trade but don't know which one.
>Britfag if that's important
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Never too late.

t. 39 year old pipefitter apprentice
I bet you look rough.
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I am /g/ fag who went /biz/ with all his savings, lost his job and now I am 30 with just 10k in my bank, at least I have no debt, and I own my place.
Is it too late to start an apprenticeship as a electrician? Will anyone hire me? Is there such thing as hiring only youngsters etc?
Roof thatcher, it's based and comfy af
Is it too late to start an apprenticeship as a electrician? No
Will anyone hire me? Yes
Is there such thing as hiring only youngsters etc? Companies actually prefer older people because they work instead of complaining or fucking around on their phone.

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"We can hear you but we're not listening" edition
Old Thread: >>1953329

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

The FAQ is now back:

>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable

>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?

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You can do a little HF as a tech. 10 meters SSB.

It's also on top of a water tower, so my chances of doing that are basically zero. Right now I'm taking things one step at a time, and trying to learn as much as I can for the time being.
You could use your baofeng(s) and play with some digital modes via fldigi or Andflmsg on a phone. SSTV with your buddies over frs if they're not hams...

No reason you can't setup a network via js8call on 2m/70cm either.

Experiment with homebrew antennas.
>No reason you can't setup a network via js8call on 2m/70cm either.
Advance warning, FT8/JS8 sucks on FM, it's a sideband mode.
Voice levels of suck or slightly better?

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Anyone got advice on what lathe manufacturer to buy from second hand obviously.
Anything to look for in terms of wear and other issues. UK and Ireland
Budget is fucked like 1200 euro - 2400 euro.
Restoration may be needed I'm ok with that.
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I think people get too excited over that kind. Probably a turret is good enough for general use. Like a Warner and Swasey no 2

Much cheaper
>Warner and Swasey no 2

I find a standard tailstock to be much more useful/practical than a turret tailstock.
Buy one from harbor freight for like 100 bucks
That's why they are much cheaper.

You can still use it as a normal lathe just less convenient
What would you anons suggest for a basic, no-frills tabletop size large to buy as a present? Looking for ease of use and reliability, and nothing too exorbitantly expensive.

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