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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

Any of you interested in diy radiation experiments? Been trying some myself, will list specifics if any of you want.
Pic not mine
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Can you still buy those? I've got a little insert from a smoke detector which I'll be using, and the small amount of gamma it produces should be sufficient. I saw a Big Clive video on the eBay geiger counter PCBs and apparently his dad kept some of those mantles in his bedside table and died from brain cancer. He didn't imply a necessary correlation, but I'd watch out with those all the same.

I looked around for those photographic film dosimeter badges on ebay and such but found nothing, it would be nice if you could buy a dozen though I suppose you can just make your own.
Yes, in fact I just got these from Ebay a few days ago.
>brain cancer
Brain has the lowest tissue weighting factor desu, even less likely related, but idk.
Thanks, I won't keep them under my pillow anymore :^)
Naturally abundant thorium emits y @ 14.9 keV, 63 kev, and less often 140 keV
>I just got these from Ebay a few days ago
But they look like old stock. I meant more is anyone still making those.
Nobody still makes them, people just sell them in large amounts
Yes, but the new ones do not necessarily contain thorium.

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Hey all,

I do a bit of metal detecting and find tons of these 22lr shells. Got 2 small jars full of them pretty much

Any ideas on some diy project i can use them for?
I was thinking about reloading them just for shits n giggles but it really isn't worth the time and money.
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With all respect.. fuck yourself. If you don't wanna do it, don't. Dude was making the point that people do it.

We should probably steer it towards other ideas.
Already had a whiny bitch saying to move it to the weapons board.
I'll try that when I get enough. I'll get back to you in a few years.
How do you prime ?
One of the articles mentioned the other was two part, and you mixed it and packed it per the instructions. I think of you can find it if you Google for the kit. That's where I did.

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Thread hymn.


Last thread:boards.4channel.org/diy/thread/1495044

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
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such an exoteric kind of pain and suffering.

on a happier note, I'm moving my CNC Lathe tomorrow and I can't wait to see if it actually works or if I'm out 15k.
I make $18 a hour programming router toolpaths on enroute and that shit is literally MS-paint tier easy. When I heard "programming" I expected it to involve complicated syntax and the like but no that shit is easy all you have to do is get the right speed and depth variables for the material; make sure the toolpaths don't overlap with one another (program notifies you and doesn't let you send the gcode file to the router itself should this happen) and you either send it over to the monkey operator whose sole purpose is to press buttons or hold down the material if your workplace is too cheap to afford a push-down vacuum. Then again I only do 2D cuts and my industry is littered with boomer hispanics who couldn't rotate a PDF.

>router programming
You're correct pretty much everywhere, and yes, programming gets more complicated as you add a third axis, or a fourth, or a fifth, and so on. That's why you're making less than a typical CNC 3+ axis programmer. Also, working on metal has more expensive tooling and the more expensive machine/setup can be damaged easily in a crash as the machine is more powerful. Hence, the higher paid CNC programmer is expected to be better at it/have experience and cause less crashes.

Paying a dude worth his salt twentywhatever+/h is comforting when you know he'll do it right and won't crash half a million dollar machine and thousands of dollars of cutting bits along with a tombstone/fixture system worth thousands more with days of man hours invested in them.

Lots of young lads are often out there going "it's so simple! Just press button!" and then get fired very very fast.
I don't believe that. Who the hell wouldn't realize they can damage extremely expensive equipment quickly?
>taking cnc programming class
>guy doesn't know the difference between g98 and g99
>doesn't get why his program is alarming for exceeding maximum feed rate
>try to explain it to him but he just keeps making his F smaller until it will run
>crashes anyway because he's trying to take like half an inch off at 60ipm

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Hey /diy/
This is fucking hilarious.


But maybe /pol/ would love it better.
What a pussy, as if thieves would care about glitter.
I'd use at least pepper spray or even acid.
I mean if it's my box on my yard and some one steals it, it's not my fault when his face gets etched away.
The thieve woun't sue me.
>won’t sue me
Ummm I hope you’re not in the EU or a blue state in the US
>It was an art project as a dangerous, harmless looking box, never intended to be opened ever.
>It also would not be my fault if anyone steals my chainsaw and cuts it's foot off with it.
>I also don't label my kitchen knives with "caution thieve, it's very sharp"

I think it wouldn't be that much of a deal in the EU either.
There was a case in Germany not so long ago, where a landlord blew the head off a burglar on his property and the law case was dropped.
In Hungary, a guy have put some poison into his wine, because gypsies always stole it from him. One died, the others survived. You can imagine what the (((media))) and (((police))) did to him...
Actually killing someone with this is on a higher public interest level, I guess.

Also wtf, did they not taste the anti freeze?

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inoperable edition: >>1512030

0. Electrics ≠ electronics. Mains wiring goes to /qtddtot/ or /sqt/. PC assembly to >>>/g/.
1. Do your own homework. Re-read all documentation/datasheets related to your components/circuits, and do an honest web search, before asking.
2. Pics > 1000 words. Post schematic/picture/sketch/9001.5 hours in MS Paint with all part numbers/values/etc. when asking for help. Focus/lighting counts.
3. Read posts fully. Solve more problems than you create.

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements. Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

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I saw another one about a 4-layer PCB manufacturing that was more interesting anyway, instead of positive photoresist for the etching they used a negative photoresist on the outer layer, then electroplated more copper onto the outside traces (and vias/thru-holes I think), then they plated tin over all the traces. Then they stripped off the photoresist, and etched them such that only the un-tinned copper was removed. Then they stripped off the tin.
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I can`t change the 0.1 resistor value, but I need to change the current which trips the current limiting. Currently it it turns on when the current across the resistor is about 7 A, I need it to be close to 4 A.
A voltage divider on the base would give me a ratio very very close to one, which is useless even with 1% resistors. How could I achieve this? Or in some way implement foldback (I have no idea on how to do it with pnp and with Rsense before the pass transistor.)
>ib4 use op amps
Can`t because local stores have no opamps with common input including VCC when VCC=25V like it is here, and even on the web is hard to find and china takes too long. (I live in a shithole)
if you can learn anything through a thick Bengali accent, more power to you

why can't you change the resistor?
>no opamps
how about the TL081? that's basically jellybean status
>Can`t because local stores have no opamps with common input including VCC when VCC=25V

They don't have antiquated shit like TL07x? Some old JFET amplifiers are kinda-sorta capable of handling positive rail inputs. As in, they aren't guaranteed to be able to do it, but even manufacturers say it is usually ok.
Why is it impossible to change the resistor or add another one (or at least a piece of wire) in series with it?
If the input voltage is stable, a voltage divider on the base should work. As in, upper leg to Q2 emitter, lower leg to ground and the mid point to Q1 base. For 12V input the lower resistor would be like 10k and the upper 220 ohms. No super precise resistors needed.

Because increasing the resistance will increase voltage drop at full load.. Ow shit I had forgotten abou the tl072! Thanks m8!

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Classic webm edition


In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?



> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)


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By that logic, why are quads and planes /diy/ while cars are automatically /toy/? People in the car hobby take them just as seriously as "drone pilots" take their quads.
I thought /toy/ was more dedicated to actual toys and not big boy toys.
gtfo impostor

It's for holding a pannable camera on a fixed wing aircraft. It needs to have an aerodynamic cowling and existing gimbals don't have that. Maybe I could also cannibalize the parts from a chink gimbal and put them in my aerodynamic version.
>It's for holding a pannable camera on a fixed wing aircraft. It needs to have an aerodynamic cowling and existing gimbals don't have that.

Oh, it's you again. It doesn't need to be aerodynamic. If you really think it does, why not just buy a regular gimbal & put it inside a clear dome/bubble? You're massively overcomplicating a very simple/solved problem.
For fucks sake, I hope you listen to yourself sometimes.
>don't even try to make your own gimbal!
>just give up before you even start!
>don't make your endurance aircraft aerodynamic!
>just put some scratched up polycarbonate in front of the lens!
Is this the true power of /diy/? Like why even post on the do it yourself board if you're just going to be a consumerist piece of shit and never engineer anything yourself? A polycarb housing wouldn't work anyway because it would block the thermal imager. You are such a fucking faggot anon, holy shit.

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Last thread died for our sins edition.
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how do I find a good frequency for listening to meteors?
Directly listening to a meteor at RF frequencies may be possible. See:

Detecting the presence of meteors by listening to forward or back scattered signals from the meteor burning up in the atmosphere is a lot easier. It can be done with just an FM receiver.

So you want to hear meteors? A basic
how to guide:
looks like cancery balls
Will a coax notch filter work well as an FM trap? Trying to get some decent signals out of my chinkshit RTLSDR, and I've never built filters before, so I'd like to learn

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All things considered in knife making.
Questions about techniques and tools.
Show your rigs, props, machines and knives.
Ask for and give advice about anything concerning forging.
Heat treatment, finish and stock removal.

Old Thread: >>1497142
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Thing with this one, it looks simple but your lines are really spot on and its super clean. How you finding the O2? I've never worked with it as its not very common here.


>fuggin aussies
I live out in NSW near the beach after living/working in Sydney for 20 years

For the next /kmg/ thread use this picture and not some floppy disk "knife" lol.
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>tfw finding that knife at random in some tool drawer and having a good laugh at all the old threads the pics were posted in
Damn that's real fuckin sick of ya
It appears making guns hard to get has resulted in aussies becoming autistic knifemakers
Seems like /diy/ has higher aus representation
Do you forge any of your knives or are they all stock removal?

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What can I use to clean this shit it wreaks havoc I just dont want to ruin my floors with the wrong cleaning solution. Any insight pls
Kill dog, soak it in bleach, scrub floor with carcass, stop seeking validation from lower life forms
Damn you red pilled me on that one. These fucking dogs are literally her life support like Wow no concrete training on all levels. Like if a dindu became a dog this would be the one

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hey /diy/
there wasn't a /sqt/ or qtddtot so I'm creating one with this post.

My stupid question: I have a rough idea for an engineering project but I'm not an engineer. Eventually I'll present my idea to an actual engineer to analyze and correct the numerous mistakes, but before I do that - how detailed should I get with the rough draft of my design? Should I attempt to design it in FreeCAD or would isometric sketches be sufficient? Can mechanical object CAD files be downloaded somewhere so I can "easily" put things together without having to design every part by hand? Thanks for any information you can provide.
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>cut a few inches of the wood on all sides away to give it a clear lip to rest on
That sounds counter-intuitive. I'm reading 'cut the door so it misses the jamb'
See this pic above - I'm planning to scrap all those 2x4s on the door, lower that 2x4 framing (thankfully it's just screwed in place) and weld a frame for the door.
That steel frame running underneath will take out any sag - my focus is how thin of metal can I go with and keep it safe while keeping it as light as possible.
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>Charts don't go below 2"
Those are charts for structural members in buildings or other big structures. 1.5" isn't strong/stiff enough for that.

>the calculator seems suspicious
It doesn't explain its methodology very well, but I think I figured out what's going on.

>Calculator says for 500lbs:
>>60" span? 1-1/4 0.072 (15 ga)
>>30" span? 7/8 0.083 (14 ga)
>Seems like overkill.
It's actually underkill. That's the result without any deflection limit, meaning that it's using the plastic section modulus. That is, that's the size of tube that will barely hold the load without failing outright, and it will be permanently and seriously bent after a single load cycle. The deflection-limited column is fairly close to my estimate for a maximum stress of 36ksi (the yield stress of typical mild steel). It probably either has a modest safety factor or a larger safety factor relying on the somewhat greater strength of formed steel.

Some factors to consider though. That calculator is about a single beam carrying all the load. The replacement bracing will need multiple beams to reduce the unsupported span of the planks to an acceptable amount. 16" is a standard floor joist spacing distance.

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>shouldn't have more than 2 people standing on it at a time, but I'd like to exceed that for safety sake. It'll certainly never see a heavy load like machinery
A standard design point for live loads in residential floors is 40 pounds per square foot, so right on your 500 pound estimate load, but that's applied continuously rather than at a point. However, for something this small, I'd go with a point load consideration. A person jumping produces a load on the floor of several times the person's static weight.
A couple more considerations: Steel is very strong and cheap by metal standards, but cheap (mild) steel's strength to weight ratio is not very impressive. Aluminum tubing could produce equivalent strength with a larger but lighter (and more expensive) tube. A structural alloy like 6061 would be suitable.

Also, how do you plan to connect the tubes to the planks forming the surface of the deck? Bolts/screws through drilled holes would work, but the holes would reduce the strength of the tubes.
Thank you. I had to read the replies several times, but I understand what you're saying and it makes perfect sense. Plus your train of thought will be lighter and quicker.

True, I had initially approached this as a welding project and don't have the capacity to weld aluminum. 6061 would be best for the application - especially when you factor in rust.
That's another good point the calculators couldn't factor in. I intend on screwing from the underside to keep the clean appearance.

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I was thinking about making some peltier shoes inserts
BOTH hot and cold, battery in pocket.

>is this dumb or genius?
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god forbid someone on this board actually attempt something
How would you heatsink that shit? Shoes are bulit to be insulating.
Not OP but don't they generate heat through usage? At the start it would be just transferring heat but after a while the heat it generates would help.
The other side cools down, while the other side heats up. Which side gets hot depends on current direction. The hot side dissipates all the heat coming in from the cold side + quite a lot of extra.
Unless OP wants his heel to be hot while his toes are cold, he probably needs to get rid of the waste heat somehow.

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What kind of light bulb would I need thst would light from a short pulse of 4kw but remain off from a pulse of 1kw or less.
Ideally not drop a ton of voltage either.

I want to make an indicator for an electric fence
Would I need logic to it? I'd rather not.

>a short pulse of 4kw but remain off from a pulse of 1kw

I'd try an LED.

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I have been trying to do all kinds of research into answering some questions I have about constructing a new home, but I'm not finding too many answers.

The current goal of my home construction adventure is to essentially get the most bang for your buck while putting in work of my own to save costs anywhere I can. I've been looking at having a steel/metal home (pic related) instead of a traditional wooden build home, but I've found contradictory assessments on both styles.

So I figure I'll ask some questions and maybe get a cool thread going about wood vs. metal homes, maybe get some cool pictures and ideas.

1. From what I could tell it would be cheaper to have a building constructed like pic related instead of a regularly build wooden home with similar square footage. Does this seem accurate?

2. Not being incredibly knowledgable personally on construction but have family that is (plus an eagerness to learn with a go get 'em attitude), how much would you have the GC complete and leave the rest for yourself to complete over time (insulation, plumbing, electrical, interior walls, etc.)? Is it worth it and doable in this style of building?

I could probably think of more questions, but this will at least help in letting me know if this is something worth pursuing or something I should forget all together.

Thanks to any help and replies in advance.
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>building into the ground a little

where i live that would be a disaster. phreatic layer is rising every year, apparently due to deforestation, basedbean monoculture and over exploting the soil, and some fields near where i live are already converted to cuasipermanent swamps.
i'm this guy >>1516253 and i'm building my house on elevated pillars. my plot of land is about 10 meters higher than those swamped fields and i'm not afraid of floodings, but almost every house in the neighbourhood, old or new, has foundations humidity problems, and i'm not taking the risk.

i'm going with concrete shoes and double T steel beams supporting a chassis of smaller double T beams, and over this the steelframe construction, that is fairly light and flexible, so it wont break even if some of the pillars sunk a little.
pillars will raise the house about 80cm, and i'll build a rammed earth embankment up to that level all around the house (pic related), so maybe some underground cold can be gathered.

but i'm really considering having an underground geothermal cooling system (also pic related), if shit gets too hot, but that can be added later to the house.
fuck this word replacements. soja beans.
>bricks>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>everything else

That's only if you use shite like pine or any other softer wood for that matter. Even oak is soft compared to a lot of lumber you find in the tropics

Gubberments and contractors are suppressing it

>Literally the world's best adjustable wrench. Prove me wrong.

Also, handtool general thread. Post your favorites.
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>but I just can’t trust the round heads since I have never had even a cheap pear head fail on me

correlation does not imply causation

The shape of its head has literally nothing at all to do with its quality.
Case in point, the motherfucker put a cheater bar and bent the handle and the pawls did not fail.
You are spouting literal garbage with no basis in reality.
The shape of its head has nothing to do with its price either.
>lots of people say the F/R selector switch breaks off.

What do you expect, GearWrench is trash nowadays
Kek, I have used a lot more pear heads than round heads and round heads are the only ones that have failed. But as I said, they were all cheap ass ones and the whole mechanism likes to just explode and fall out of the body of the wrench.

Anyway you’re being salty internet argument man. The expensive round head ratchets are good, but they still suffer from the inherent issues with round head ratchets. Can’t flip the F/R switch with one hand like the pear heads and if you ever fuck the teeth on the body of the ratchet, there is no way to rebuild it. You probably won’t wreck those teeth on an SK unless you’re being even dumber than me, but it’s still worth mentioning.

>the shape has nothing to do with the price
Jesus christ. People on the internet don’t even read, they pick out a few words, get angry, and then write a bunch of dumb replies. But in response to this, the cheapest, shittiest Chinesium socket sets always have those round heads in them. It’s obviously cheaper to manufacture a cheap round head than a cheap teardrop.

Meh, it’s not the same as the ol’ KD tools, but it’s nice for the money. I would take most GW tools over other affordable Asian brands. I have liked everything I own from them and there’s only two products I have ever seen mediocre reviews on from them and both are from trying to engineer special tools that can’t take the abuse that people expect of a regular wrench with zero moving parts.
Did you make it home ok, honey baby?
Was wondering the same thing. I stayed up all night waiting for anon to get home but he never showed. I hope he wasn’t out all night cheating with another image board.

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