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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Imperial or metric? Choose carefully.
>inb4 burgers
We've already got one of these, OP. How about cubits?
Metric=White people
Imperial=56% mystery meat
So when you built your house, you used metric? no, actually, i guess not, because you've never built anything in your life.
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How often does this have to be posted baka. Know your place europoors.

We did it, we kept a wood working thread alive to the bump limit, old thread >>1611341
Lets keep this going.
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The E. C. Emmerich and Ulmia wooden planes are fantastic, the wedge set version are around $90, but wedge set and wood bodies are not for everyone. E.C. Emmerich also has the Primus line which are wood bodies with mechanical adjustment, but you are back up to $200 and up. Highland Woodworking sells the E.C. Emmerichs and PeckTool sells the Ulmia in the US.

The best way to get good planes for less is just to buy an old beaten up Stanley that someone else has already done the work on, will average $50-100 a plane depending on the model, just need to avoid the collectable models, perhaps cheaper for the smooths and blocks. If you want to go that route just go to supertool.com and join the mailing list, as long as it does not say it is being sold for parts or the like you will get planes that will be able to be restored and no more work than a modern budget plane to get tuned up.
The Harbor Freight plane set with the jack plane is kind of a piece of shit (mine rusted out in the open) and its not the best design, but once the blade is sharp and you figure out how to use it, it works better than expected. Can't speak for the smaller plane in the set because I haven't really used it. I have a small Buck Bros block plane from Home Depot that works well enough with a sharp blade. But both of those small planes are a pain in the ass to set.
what is wwg s opinion on mounting wooden posts directly into concrete? surely you judge it as total savagery?
that is literally how every single fence around here is made. treated lumber wont rot for a very long time.
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>buy plaster, white acrylic paint and a tint
>mix them, play with the ratios
>congrats, you have chalk paint
Use spray lacquer.

Hello there do it yourself. I've got a shity front door and shity door in the bathroom pickle follow and Freight is buckled because the concrete has settled underneath it and the whole frame is twisted how do I replace the door without worrying about fastening it down or showing a gap
OP here

As you can see the bathroom one is even worse because the foundation has cracked and settled about two-and-a-half 3 in over about 15 feet and about and three quarters of an inch across this doorway space

Homebrew General
Ferment your Piss Edition
Previous Thread >>1596780
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>what do I need?
patience, mainly
>Never taking the juice out of the bottle to begin with, just pouring out a bit and only adding sugar and yeast then recapping until its time to serve if you're a madman.
i did that when i was underage. my friends loved me
I have one liter of 50% moonshine at my disposal. I feel like turning it into some kind of liquor, do you guys have any tips? Something relatively easy and tasty.
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I love brewing Saisons, they are generally very easy and taste so good. My favorite thing is to make hefeweizen recipes but use Saison yeast.
If you're gunning for beer just order a basic homebrewing kit from Northern Brewer or Midwest Supplies. It comes with everything you need except recipe ingredients, cleaner/sanitizer, bottles and caps, and a brewing pot. I recommend dropping some good cash on a quality brewing vessel - I'm using an 8 gallon Megapot.
Pale ales are an easy first recipe.

After having 18 or so batches of beer under my belt I have made my first Mead recipe:
3 gallon batch with 114 oz. various types honey including 14 oz. of honey from my own bees. Placed the honey jars in a hot water bath and heated up water to around 105 degrees. Mixed everything together, topped up to 3 gallons and added 3 crushed up campden tablets. Pitched D47 wine yeast the next day, and today started a regimen of staggered yeast nutrient and energizer additions. I got some foam when I stirred it in so I'm hoping the yeast is at work already. Trying to ferment cool around 65F but my AC is old and has temperature swings. I'll keep y'all updated on how things go.
>Does anyone know where to get really cheap, 1 liter glass bottles?
imported german beer often comes in resealable glass bottles.

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I'm not sure about the process of heat treating my metal, but is it basically
>heat steel to extreme degree to shape it
>sculpt blade shape and basic grind
>heat steel at lower heat, grind and polish

theres only so much a YouTube video can teach me, I just wanted to get a process down before I start experimenting this weekend with some steel I got laying around
What YouTube channels have you been watching? Doesn't sound like Walter Sorrels, he goes pretty in depth about exactly what you're asking. You might have go back through his catalogue, but he's fairly thorough.
I don't know how I missed this, thanks.
He's got my questions answered.
>shape steel
>heat to extreme temp then lower temp last to harden
Now it just comes down to how I'm going to heat my steel up.
He has at least one where he uses a firepit and a hair dryer to heat treat, just to show it can be done, even if it's not recommended. Have fun beating on hot metal OP.
>Now it just comes down to how I'm going to heat my steel up.
I was able to make one of these for about $200, though mine doesn't look nearly as nice.

Pic related is mine. Nowhere near as neat and clean looking, but I also was just winging it with no real design in mind. At first I had planned to tidy up the wires and add a proper enclosure for the electronics after giving it a test run. But here we are 4 months and 6 knives later, and the bastard is still an ugly electrical hazard--but it works, so whatever.

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My aunt has a wooden, steel backed security door. Her house used to be a bank, there are no low windows except one which is still quite high up and barred. Her daughter went out today and left the door unlocked for me to go in and put up some kitchen shelves. I go over, the door won't open. It definitely appears to be locked.

Now there's a huge steel bolt that goes across the inside. I think it's wiggled its way closed very slightly inside. Now nobody can get in, it doesn't matter if they have keys, the bolt is closed.

There is also a back door from the basement (I have the basement key, can get in fine) but it's padlocked on the inside. So no way to open from the basement side.

I need tips on how to break into a steel security door if we can't get it open. I've already been shouldering it pretty hard, won't budge at all. Or would it be easier to break through the basement door? Thanks in advance.

The door is like 100 years old btw, solid wood and 3mm plate on the whole back. The bolt is about half an inch thick. There isn't a window.
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General consensus
If Jamal would change his criminal ways, we wouldn't have to keep telling him to give things back.
>stupid racist prick
Everyone giving this person advice is aiding advising and abetting a breaking and entrring/burglary at best and a bank robbery/homicide at most
>anyone cares
>Bank robbery/homicide at most
>At most
That sounds like a challenge....

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Who Let The Sparks Out Edition

Old thread: >>1625048

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Borg cube?
yep, TNG version
need to to check remixes/alternatives
or just fix this one into six sides for my new lamp
god bored of my jeans getting oily from touching the chain so i designed this chainguard to protect my jeans
figuring out at what distance from the centre the mounting holes are on this stronglight front sprocket turned out to be surprisingly difficult, couldn't find any mechanical drawings online, thank god it was a multiple of millimeter
The size was constrained by my print bed at 210mm so there is a "cut" on the guard but it is where the pedal is so it doesn't matter
I needed the full sized bed for a few things I want to make. it seems to print well enough I just need to figure out some minor things

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Hope you're having a nice sunday, /diy/

I'd been wanting to build a small lathe, and had been trouble coming up with how to machine the base. After sifting through some epoxy granite stuff, I've found the Gingery lathe. On one hand casting the parts out of aluminum seems so easy and effective, on the other hand, I don't see it very often and I don't see anybody reporting on using these machines long term, so I'm wondering about the caveats. Are there any besides lower weight and thus less vibration absorption? (contact surfaces on the bed would be bolted on)
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>Elaborate pls

Elaborate on what?
The fact that you can literally buy a chinesium lathe that will be better made and more stiff for less than the cost of raw materials for the gingery lathe?

When the book was written, there was no cheap lathes on craigslist or cheap harbor freight lathes, and scrap was cheap or free.
There is a reason that its not popular to build stuff like this, its cheaper and easier to just buy a tool which in the end will work better.
cheap chinese machines ways aren't always good though
>cheap chinese machines ways aren't always good though

this. any homemade aluminum way is better than chinese machinery.
potentially, if the home made stuff is at least cast iron or a purchased linear rail.

honestly, it seems a bit odd to me that people are willing to buy cheap crappy dovetail way machines when they could spend the bulk of the money on quality components like linear rails and servos then afro engineer the base out of epoxy granite or aluminum or whatever.

Didn't Okuma experiment with a cheap aluminum CNC mill? Okuma's "economy" line is still pretty pricey of course.
This guy has been working on and off on a Gingery lathe for about a year. Not as much progress as you would think, but he seems busy as fuck with the real world.

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I recently bought a compressor that runs at 175psi at 11CFM to run an air hammer. I figured that since i have the compressor i might as well branch out.

What are the "must have" tools? Which brands should i avoid?
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With a conpressor like op if he's running a hammer gun he need 3/ or 5/8" hose. They have those round plastic protectors and you can always adapt a smaller hose to it.
Are we talking a shitty hardware store air hammer or a pro>>1631433
per rivet gun?
They have been running this bad boy at work with all the rain we have been getting lately.
impact wrench
cutoff tool / die grinder
tire inflation tool
blowing tool

Anything that may see extended periods of use like a drill, angle grinder, or sander you'll probably better off using electric.
Watch the max PSI ratings on whatever tools you choose. 175 is way beyond spec for your average impact wrench, etc. Most automotive shop / home compressors are set around 110 or so, many tools specify 90 psi max, there is some slight pressure loss in the air hoses

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Im building the ultimate desk, help me out bros, so far I've got
-mechanically height adjustable
-pc is built in
-built in wireless charger (qi)
-ambient lighting
-usb hub
-smart routing for cabling

need some more ideas, also what design ideas will make it look even cooler?
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Should be "when I bought it"
>le epic eveyone should be like this idiot at google meme
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me again. having a simple grate behind a cool design will make it look cooler. There's a computer fan behind the grate. It's used by this welder dude who needed to cool his equipment/work pieces.
its a prime example, look past the meme, hes one of the most important programmers of all time. rms: used a single monitor his entire programming career. torvalds: uses a macbookpro 0 external screens.
Wrong. Add fridge, ez bake, 5 gal dispenser.

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Previous: >>1573816
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So far we have ____________, _____________, _____________, ____________, and ____________, are there any more youth check ins? [Repeat until no more check ins.]

(Be sure to let everyone check in first before allowing discussion.)

Are there any last check-ins before we open to discussion?

Hearing no other check-ins, I will turn the discussion over to __________ first, then to others in sequence. This is [YOUR CALLSIGN].

(After discussion) This is [YOUR CALLSIGN], net control for the For Christian HAM Absolution Net. Are there any last minute check-ins?

Is there any further business for the net before I close? Please call now.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
No oral, no vaginal. Not even Morse code.
It's like a grad school exam. Sit down, they pass out a paper test, you turn it in, they grade it and give you a 'atta boy' paper.
1/2 of HAMs are spergs.
*Grade school
Is there any reason to even take it? I've just been using my father's callsign for the last 6 years even though I'm on the opposite side of the country.
There is literally no enforcement, despite what all the turbohams on all the forums say.
The penalty doesn't seem like it'd be harsh. AARL just published an Extra who was playing 'sad trombone' sounds on a police freq. was confronted about it by the FCC, stopped then started again and the FCC caught him on camera. He lost his license and $12,000.

A wrong callsign seems like it'd go unnoticed, but why not? Do it, be done with it, and grow people you know and try for DC awards.

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What part am I supposed to buy to fix this? Windy ass place so gotta use my garage to leave the house since some marketing faggots broke it and the wind can fuck the glass up.
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>screw a metal plate

sigh. You should design Apple products.
i'm not familiarized with the concept
what is this i'm looking at?
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Will consider just find something similar to that
Just the spring-attachment for the door so it doesn't open too much basically. Something very useful with shitty windy days as one mistake can have door swing and break the glass in an instant

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i just started messing with circuitry as a new hobby. give me some ideas on what to make
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Make a dildo for your gay ass dog.
Why don't you make like a tree
... and leaf
bump i need moar ideas kek
If you have an Arduino or a Raspberry Pi, then you can use some servos and make a hand that can perform several different tasks, such as: wave, high five, fortnite dance, etc. Find something that you would like to have and build it no matter how little practical use it has
What kind of circuitry? What do you wish to learn? If you're messing with arduino / pi there are 49,771 videos on Youtube. If you are messing with basics, resistors, caps, transistors, old school analog chips like LM series.... then dig around and find the old Forrest M. Mims books that were sold in Radio Shack back in the day. Engineer's Notebook in its various editions was good for ideas, if you really want to learn basics there were even older ones, small thin books, can't recall the name but I bought them all as a kid in the late 70's

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I want to repair the concrete and make it look smarter.

To fill in the cracks, should I use concrete, or something else?
Would it need a pressure wash, or can I just use a course brush and a knife to clean the cracks?
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Watch the playlist that starts with this video:

I love this guy. "No big deal..."
>I want to repair the concrete and make it look smarter.

You might not be allowed to. If you fix the concrete it will clash with the dilapidated appearance of everything else. Check your local zoning, as it appears that you are in an area zoned to be decrepit.

Power wash
Muriatic acid wash
Apply weld-crete bonding agent
Top with 1.5" to 2" of new concrete

anything else will just give shit looking results.
add wwm
> it appears that you are in an area zoned to be decrepit.

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