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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

anyone have experience doing this? I'm inspired do try it, even if i sink 2k into it it'll be worth it since manufactured teardrops/mini campers are starting at 4k-20k+
any suggestions or advice would be appreciated
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>-proper weight distribution for the trailer to avoid the wiggle-wiggle while driving
posting this in case maybe it saves a life.
If you know someone who does aluminum screen enclosures, check out "struct all" panels. Not cheap but within your range. Small windows can be found at box stores. Make your own door with a window and 2x2 aluminum. Sealer at all joints. Build it so the inbetween gaps of panels can breath to the outside. Panels are textured aluminum sheet, white styrofoam, another sheet. A little smelly and possibly toxic to breathe for extended periods. It will be lightweight, no wood or steel to rot and will float when Moses returns.
giant pain in the ass. just browse craigslist
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I built and outfitted a 5x8 teardrop for less than 2k, 5 years ago. Still used it a few times a year until covids.
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Help please
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How good are you with linear algebra?
No, go get a job you bum
Search for "home made GPU" and you find plenty. What was wrong with the hits you got?
lol, diy clone of soundblaster, really nothing done that's different from original, still looks dope tho
>hey I want to build x and I did no research, how to do pls help me
nice bait
>16 Arduino Mega
Cool, do it and report back please.

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I am a retard and opened a machining thread on /pol/ edition.

Thread hymn.


Last thread: >>1840805

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
>Edge precision
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Just lost my machinist job, I was there for just under two years. What are my chances of getting another machinist job if I only have an associate's degree?
Mind sharing details about your last job? I'm kind of curious. Also if you have a degree you're probably ahead of most applicants.

I kind of wonder what the person in charge of hiring would think of someone who has ran a small business for a year or two and done all the operating, setup, programming, etc. as well as maintenance on an old industrial machine, etc. even job quoting.

why u get fired?
>I kind of wonder what the person in charge of hiring would think of someone who has ran a small business for a year or two
Either they'll love it or hate it. Depends if you have prior experience and schooling. Heres how I see it being a negative:
>too overqualified for the job, some places would rather pick up people fresh from school for cheap salaries
>if you have no prior experience or schooling they might think you picked up bad habits from self teaching
>since you ran your own business they might think you'll be opinionated and try to change things around and get in the way of their work
>if you get hired at a place and out preform the other machinist they might feel threatened and gang up to try and get you fired
>they won't give a shit all together
I'm a pessimistic asshole sorry.
The place I work refuses to even consider people who have 'business owner' anywhere on their resume. I'm told they are afraid those types of people are going to leave for something better, or worse, be looking for opportunities through the job to strike out on their own, steal clients, whatever. I'm not sure why they feel so strongly about it, the only thing that ever happened like that was some guy who called in sick every day that it snowed so he could plow...

live in minnesota lakes country and have about a 12 to 15 ft hill at a 45 degree angle from our back yard down to the lakeside. we've already planted 6 trees up on the top of the hill a few years ago that are doing pretty well and seem to have been alot of help but we still lose alot of dirt during big rains. anyone have any good suggestions for hearty plants that grow well in almost no direct sunlight to help retain soil?

We already plan on putting in a of french drain when we replace the steps down to the lake, just looking for something to stop the bleeding in the interim.

Pics of hill forthcoming
I'd say bamboo probably. Make sure you get the spreading kind and not the clumping shit.
Cant obstruct the view of the lake
Check native grasses, start planting from the bottom of the slope up. Consider adding some netting and planting through it to help prevent erosion.

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I went on an autistic rampage and destroyed my apartment how do I fix it, the doors, the walls, the blinds, the mirrors, it's all fucked.
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>cut out squares for the drywall,

much easier if you get a big mofo of a hole saw and cut circles and then cut circles out of the bad sections for patching, lines up perfect every time.
How do you get the smaller circle to stick on the cutout hole?
Staple to your penis with Jewish wood glue.
One item at a time. If there's anything serieus (a front door or something not closing anymore), give that priority. If you're having trouble overseeing things, make a list and add every to-fix to that list as you think of it. Don't wait until the list is complete, even if there is one item on the list you have something to fix.

Also take a minute or two to think about what caused the rampage and consider how you'll prevent a future one. The only thing more depressing than fucking up your house is fucking up your house after you've fixed it. Prevent that if possible.
it's easiest if you overlap a stud, then just screw the new circle to the stud and use patch compound like usual for the joint.

if not, you can glue chunks of drywall to the inside of the hole then glue the plug to those chunks and fill the seam with patch compound.

if someone comes along and hits it hard later it will break but that will be their problem.

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how do i get started with tube frame chassis design? i have cad expertise and i am in my second year of mechanical engineering uni. are there any books or guides that show the thought process of designing a tube frame chassis?
If you're in second year at an uni deserving the name, you should be learning the basics (soft-body statics) right about now, and the more advanced stuff (dynamics) over the next year.
After that, the designing process is pretty simple. Basically, you need to know where the force enters (usually, where the springs connect to the chassis and where the seats or bed are screwed on) and how high the force is (vertically, that would be found by falling from acceptable height at max load and being slowed down by the springs, horizontaly it's be ramming the wheels against a wall at a realistic speed, or max speed if the frame also works as a cage).

Knowing this, you'd draw a basic framedesign. For a tube frame, that'd mean triangles, and preferable 60° angles (if you don't understand why, go back to basic mechanics. I'm too lazy to explain).
Usually, the frame design is influenced massively by how the frame'll be used - ex, in a buggy, you need holes big enough to get in and out.

Next, you'd calculate how the forces spread throughout the frame. After that, calculate how big and thick the tubes need to be to stand that force with acceptable safety (check you local standardizations for the safety factor, or DIN if you want to be 100% safe).

That's all for the design. For actually manufacturing, I'm the wrong guy to ask.
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Just look up the Formula SAE guidelines for building tube chassis. They cover all the safety stuff in their Chassis Requirements, but the optimization stuff will be up to you.


As far as manufacturing the thing, just use a decent CAD program that can draw up "tube cope". I use solidworks. Most of the tube sizes will be given to you by the FSAE manual above, so that will be your starting point. After your design is done you have to notch the tubes and weld them. For this i just make sure my printer is set to make DIMENSION ACCURATE prints. Then i just print out the ends of the tube coping and cut the paper designs out and tape them to the ends of the steel tubes. After they're taped to the steel tube i use DYKEM STEEL BLUE to paint the profile that needs to be removed to the tube. After that you just have to get an angle grinder and cut/grind until your DYKEM profile is all cut away.

Dont forget you will also need to design a big ass jig to hold your chassis together as you weld the tubes together. Most students fail at this step lol.

Anyway, as far as "design" goes. Just fuck it. If you use the FSAE required steel tube material and dimensions and joining locations you will have a decent chassis. Chassis design is barely engineering, and akin to the framework of a house. It's a mature technology. Chassis optimization is high tech engineering, and you wont be doing that. I'm a mechanical engineer and the two times i built chassis i literally just did the bare minimum and slapped that shit together. Great chassis, no problems, no breaks. I dont think i did FEA analysis on anything even once when it comes to chassis design.

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I scored a free old truck and I just want to make a trailer out of the bed. Never done it before, are there any good write-ups on it to get me started?

Looks like I just kind of use most of the original frame, bend it into itself, weld on a hitch? Where do I buy the trailer half of a hitch?

Then I gotta get it registers I guess, and the wiring for brake lights?
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Short beds are not very good unless its city speed not highway speed. The weight balance is 50/50 over the axle. Bending and welding the frame into the toung not good because the frame rails usually droop lower going under the cab. This results in the trailer angled down toward the tailgate. Loads will scoot closer to the tailgate making the load balance even worse. Solutions are: add a truck bed toolbox in front of the bed and put useful weight in it. Low drop hitch on pulling vehicle will help level trailer. If you notch/cut frame to bend together it is very very important to weld plates over these areas on top and bottom of frame to prevent it from buckling under load. Frame steel is typically .120" thickness. This info comes from making 4 such tailers. Best one was done with a chevy 2500 donor. Most fun was a 7' ford ranger bed on an old boat trailer I modded to make a dump bed using a pole, pulleys and the boat winch. I hope this helps you prevent disaster.
This, just fix the truck

like this one? if you can't assemble this you had no chance at converting a truck
>Harbor freight

Yeah nah after TWO recalls on jack-stands I think I'll take my chances on the ass end of a truck.
I have the 5x8 ironton. Built a teardrop trailer on it. 10/10 would recommend.

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Best value belt sanders? I'm looking to get into knifemaking, but also need one that could accurately square pieces of stock for basic machining. So I think I need one with a not so chinesium part holder thingy.

Bonus questions:

Are the ones where the belt goes horizontal any good? They seem to have a much larger usable surface, but I never see them being used in metal/machine shops.

Wtf is the purpose of the spinning disk on the side of sanders like the one in the pic if you already have the belt sander? Quick access to a different grit?
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jesus that's shitty
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>tight tolerances
>belt sander

lol wat
Thats nice
What motor are you using? Any plans for that?
What did you use for the pulleys
let's see the one you made
hah! idk I never used one before and thought the pulleys all needed to be lined up pretty accurately to keep the belt from popping off. The tracking adjustment can accommodate a surprising amount of misalignment but I did need to use a straightedge from the motor pulley to line them all up to get the belt to track centered on all 4 pulleys.
Thanks it's an old, old 3450 rpm 1.5 hp Craftsman table saw motor, no variable speed. I have the drawings but it's really not the best design. I'm planning on making some revisions based on how this went together and making a second one for a knifemaker friend I'll post a link for the plans for that if it turns out ok.
Not sure, he bought the pulleys for me since the second one is for him but I think they were around $25 for the set on Aliexpress.

On average, what is the best paid trade? And what is the worst?
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its true
keep in mind these are people keeping shit like powerplants and water treatment facilities running
its union
its certifcate heavy
its hard to get into but once youre IN you cant be replaced easily
also bearing absolute MAJOR FUCK UPS
ie catastrophic failure of your own fault(misreadong gauges, fucking up a critical pipe installation) you are always rehirable somewhere else
also oil/gas pipe layers and oil platform etc are $$$$ but be prepared to work in horrible environments year round
is oil even a good field to get into right now? didn't oil prices drop to being almost valueless?
infrastructure installation will always pay mass $ because no one wants to do oilplatform/north dakota oilfield work because its horrible
look into it
my buddy pulls mega numbers works 11 months of the year in goddamn desolate wasteland world north dakota
you cant even spend the money you make. its not for everyone but if you have nothing and just want to work for something later in life(as everyone should be in that situation) its the best choice IF YOU CAN HANDLE IT.
Union Electricians Wage Scale Across the Country



Can a UA member show me a site where I can find locals and their wage/scale?

Hi /diy/,

I need some electrical advice. I just moved into a new condo recently and would like to change how the light switches work in my room. My room has two light switches, one which controls one ceiling light fixture and half of some power outlets. The other one controls another ceiling light fixture. I've installed some low voltage LED light fixtures in place of the old halogen ones and they are way too bright so I purchased a couple of Lutron ELV dimmers which I plan to install to tone those down.

The main problem I have is with the switched outlets, I find them super annoying and I would like them to be always on all the time as my lighting comes only from the ceiling fixtures and I want to be able to use all of my outlets to power electronics.

So here are the questions. What do I need to do to keep my switches controlling the ceiling lights but not control any outlets at all? Will there be any gotchas to look out for when installing the ELV dimmers? I don't mind having to buy new outlets if required.
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Youre going to be installing new outlets. The half switched ones have a broken tab on them that lets them be half switched.

Turn them off at the breaker. Pull one from the wall. You ideally will have a black always on and a red switched. Ideally. Grab a tester for 120, flip the breaker back on but leave the switch off. Check voltage. Thats the hot you will tying onto the outlet and the other hot will just be wire nutted off. Flip off the breaker, install the new outlet and thats all there is to that
Can't really help you unless you show a pic that describes how the wiring is arranged. This could be either an easy or hard job depending on how that first switch is wired.
Maybe. He said half the outlets, not half of each outlet. They might not be half-hots at all.
OP. You can probably do the necessary wiring right behind the switch...
At my old house (with 70s era switched outlets) when I was young and poor, I bypassed the switch in the box. I'm guessing now from the replies here that was a no-no.
bypass the switch, install a wireless smart bulb in the ceiling.

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>live edge pallet wood epoxy coffee table
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>wood glue and clamps
holy fuck is that real?!?
this just cant be real it just cant be fucking real it looks so real
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>omg epoxy with led light strips inlaid

fuck that shit

What’s the best budget way into welding? Say, under 300$ total? Just for more basic shit like picrel, nothing heavy duty
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Alright I need some help making my choice here
I'm kinda just writing this out for my own sake, but if anyone has any advice I'll take it

Titanium stick 225-260$
>dual voltage, might be convenient to have 120v in the future
>DC OUTPUT-this is the biggest pro to me, seems like a lot of people say dc output is significantly better than AC.
>light/small-takes up less space, and I'm weak lol
>More expensive I guess?
>harbor freight, quality is probably sketch but it does get good reviews
>electrode holder seems shit, I'd probably have to replace it eventually

Lincoln tombstone ac225 from craigslist- 125$ & comes with 40lbs of mystery rods

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>Titanium stick 225-260$
>>comes with 40lbs of mystery rods

That's no necessarily a pro. A lot of rods don't age well and have to be stored under specific conditions. Some can be saved with low temp baking. Depending on the brand the composition may be stamped on the uncoated part of the rod or printed on the flux. Toss any that the flux is falling off of, bake the rest at a low temp and toss them all in a sealed container for later on. You don't want to learn with them as you'll have a hard time figuring out if a problem is you or the rod.
Miller makes good machines. Personally, I would get something that also supports 220v for down the road in case you want to move onto thicker stuff.

MIG or TIG both work well for thin sheets metal. TIG can get tiresome as it's a slower process and you don't have your other hand to support yourself while working.
ah good point. I'm likely going to buy some new 3/32 rods in a good brand regardless since thats what I was recommended, but free stuff is free stuff regardless :p
You can get very decent AC TIG machines for around 600-800 (+200 for gas/bottle) which would be way more versatile.


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Post your dumb questions that you hate to use in someone else's thread.
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does anybody know why i cant find these things in Germany? Every plastering guy on yt uses them but i cant find them here and there isnt a real translation.
Did you read it in the manual that came with your drremel, or possibly in the one you can find on-line?
also why tf is refina made in germany but cant be bought here as well
Europeans dont use hawks.
They either scoop the stuff with a knife onto a trowel, or throw it on a wall with masonry trowel and then smear it with normal trowel.
Watch your local videos... Or make a hawk out of plywood and wooden stick, because fuck it, it is way more convenient to have a hawk and a knife for drywall, then scoop it out of the bucket.
Ok, turkish immigrant, I found a tool for you

I don't know german at ALL, and I found it. But again, nobody uses it.

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I'm waxing my car for the first time and I want to do it right.

Basically it's got a few paint chips on various parts of it and I think a sunspot is just starting to form. I've called a place about it to see if it's possible to fix those things before waxing, but they pretty much told me it's fucked and to just wax it regularly.

Is it possible to fix these two things? Any waxing tips also appreciated
Just watch The Karate Kid. It's got about all you need to know. You'll also learn to sand floors and paint fences, too.
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If you're getting "sunspots" starting to form or hazing you need to do a compound polish if it's kinda bad, or just a regular light polish if it's not so bad, then use color correct touch up paint and add some puddy if you want. THEN wax it. Wax just protects what's already there, if it's shit, you're just encasulating shit.

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