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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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"Older than a Boomer" edition

Old thread: >>2371723

Eternal thread theme: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mf_P0BXrYTo

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

The FAQ is now back:
>NEW FAQ is updated to preview 13

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You could swap out the Tayloe detector IC with a faster one like PO3B3253A which should go to 2m and be a dropin, but the PA would need to be redesigned for a different part to transmit. Probably not worth it to try to do anything higher than 6m.
pretty good
just threw up some wire to see what I could get
haven't tuned it up yet
I'll make a good vertical and/or maybe beam soonish now that most of my shit is moved
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Might want to retire your golden screwdriver if you need an antenna to receive the bowl. Also Motor Mouth Maul is a white boomer. Despite what they sound like on the air very few are actually black.
Won't deny that I'm not a retard who likes listening to the bowl for no reason
I get on sideband sometimes but I do way more listening than transmitting
Was too lazy to connect my sideband radio for now
Power connector for it is wired in the truck
And didn't feel like jamming clip leads in at the moment
Just use an F connector TV diplexer.
Forget that expensive shit.

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45yrs ago these two gound wires were tied to one ground screw. I'm told you need a wire nut, particularly a green one to combine the two copper (they're copper, right?) wires into one. In Canada we only have regular wire connectors. What should I do to connect the ground properly?

Doing this because the old gfci tripped and can't be reset anymore (test button stuck).

Please let me know if im wrong about anything
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I feel proud of myself btw and it's thanks to you anons I feel like i got some man xp today. Sincerely thank you
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>spends one day on /diy/
>american wiring the conductor goes literally under the screw
fuck me lmfao utterly unbelievable you couldn't make it up. fucking insane lol seriously. jfc. wow.
BMP bump
Are your wire connections in the breaker box good?

Sometimes they can get corrosion.

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Previous thread:>>2367609
Here we discuss microcontrollers, SBCs and microcontroller accessories, such as Atmel AVR and attinys (Arduinos), ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP32, RPI, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor control, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive

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>Oh, so even trying to define what memory locations I'm using in the C code won't work?
What I mean is that the linker doesn't know shit about those, so changing them will absolutely not change the layout of your code. It only tells the C code what it should think the world looks like.
The linker is what assembles your final program (usually an ELF [Executable and Linkable Format]), which is where the different sections are "placed" in the correct spot. For example, for some target with executable flash @ address 0x1000, you'd place `.text` there, then `.data` in SRAM (some other address) etcetera. It seems that your program is having sections placed in arbitrary locations or incorrect spots. I'd try and find your linker script, then post it here for us to inspect.
ok tomorrow i'm biting the bullet, deleting mplabx and installing microchip avr studio 7 for avr and microchip sam avr devices avr
never using avr-gcc again
gnu made me do this

maybe there'll be support for the tiny1614 and other new avrxmega3 devices in 5 years or so
>avr studio 7
it uses avr-gcc though.
>windows only

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Last thread: >>2382695

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,

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>get a milling machine to make stuff out of solid steel and aluminum.
>implying I don't

Milling or CNC is subtractive manufacturing, which is great, but sometimes additive is needed, hence me having a 3d printer.

I don't think every piece needs to be purely functional. But it's similar to a regular ass home printer printing on generic printer paper. It's nice, it can print out documents and shit, but for the most part you're not printing out photos or art and tossing that up on the wall straight out of the printer.

That's how I see 3d printers, and when someone decides to effectively print out garbage art on garbage paper, but in 3d terms by printing out useless models and tossing them up around their house it just seems tacky and gross.

If you're printing objects you intend to use as knick-knacks, finish them. Body filler, sanding, painting, the whole nine yards. Otherwise you're effectively printing out shitty pictures on printer paper and sicking them up around your house with scotch tape.
>Use it for what it's meant to do.
Printers are meant for making more and better printers. If you disagree with that, then the Basilisk will send you to hell.
The fuck are you talking about? They aren't the only ones who modify cars until they're they become projects that don't even drive.
just bought the Anycubic Mega S, this is my "first" 3d printer, was it a good choice?

I put first in quotes because I have had some chinesium thing back in like 2013 that didn't really work at all, and I did some 3d printing in highschool with some really fancy, government-budget printers that I forget the names of, again around like 2013-2016. So I have a little idea of what to expect, I've just never really done much and I don't know much about modern 3d printing.
I use linux on my home PC but I also have windows dual booted, so software shouldn't be an issue? How well supported is slicing software on linux?
>How well supported is slicing software on linux?
As a rule? 100%.

So apparently evaporative roof cooling systems are used (if not commonplace) for cooling roofs of commercial/industrial buildings. Basically just spray water on the roof of a building and let it evaporate.

Anyone know why these not more commonplace in residential applications? I could understand installation cost could be high if you had it professionally done but it looks like it could be done DIY for a couple hundred dollars (timer relay, solenoid valve, few hoses, and either misting hose or sprinklers). At first I was worried about thermal shock being a problem, but further research indicated a roof cooling system will reduce thermal shock if done properly (provided you have your on/off duration and time spacings set right). I understand freezing could be a problem, but as long as the roof has any slope proper layout should make draining trivial at the end of the season.

Or is it because during the summer a lot of places suffer from water shortages, such a use of water is discouraged? In my case I'm on well water and I can run 6GPM in the middle of an extreme drought all day with no well recovery issues.

Is there anything else I am overlooking here?
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wouldn't it make sense to have a ventilation fan running on either side of your attic
surface tension moment
Yes anon. Byzantium will always live on in our hearts.
Results are in. High temperature of 90-92 degrees and sunny both days.
With the rooftop cooling running I measured 2.6 kWh on the portable AC unit running. Without the rooftop cooling running I measured 7.4 kWh. The portable AC unit only keeps one of the upstairs room cool, so the 4.8 kWh savings understates the benefits.
I didn't estimate water consumption but will do so later. In my case it won't make a difference since water from the well is trivially cheap, but given that the average cost of city water is 0.3 cents per gallon I can see how anything but a highly optimized system would not be cost effective in a residential setting.
Do Americans really clad their roofs with tar paper? lmao...

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Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread.

previous thread hit bump limit >>2373194

Will hydrogen peroxide and water kill crawlspace mold or should I go bleach?
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Do they sell the little strip so you can make your own any custom length? Like tiny weather stripping. Maybe that’s easier if it’s not a common size.
Will gasoline melt cyanoacrylate glue?
tl;dr because reasons i'm living in my buddy's workshop, he told me do whatever I need to make myself comfy he doesn't care, he's a trucker and not really home much and views it having a security guard since he worries about people stealing his shit while he's gone. He has this absolutely behemoth overhead door like pic rel, he said it's 14'x14'. I was wondering, does anyone have any suggestion how, if possible, I could modify the back side of the door to work as a projector surface without impeding it's ability to be opened?
I'm fucking glad you asked in the stupid questions thread, paint the fucking hardware white (assuming you have permission) and then use fucking double sided tape above and below the segment lines to attach plain fucking computer paper, it will bend as the door opens and closes. Put aluminum foil over any little windows and then tape paper over those too. God damn son did you really need a stranger on the internet to tell you how to white out a surface?
Bruh you've never used a projector before.

Buy white blackout curtains on Amazon. You can get them like 8 ft tall. Figure out how to fasten them to or in front of the door, should work better than trying to white-out the door.

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This was fun

Go on Craigslist and find cool free shit in your area, post it
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TFW you post the wrong link and nobody will laugh at your dogshit joke that they wouldn’t have laughed at anyways
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Glowniggers anyone?
free to consume?
how can it lose!?!?
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> Anon is seething
> Anon keeps going on about skill and importance

I'm guessing anon wasted years developing skills only to get stuck in a job they hate. Meanwhile OP is enjoying life and has work that satisfies them.

Anon, this is just sad. You can do better but instead insist on lashing out at others.
Hey panel builder bros
Still useless, no matter how you simp to OP
It looks interesting but what the fuck is it?

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I live in a hot part of the US, and want to design and build a house to minimize interior heat during the summer. Some ideas I've had are installing window awnings, building a wraparound porch, and building a secondary outdoor kitchen. What are some other things I can do? I'd like to not rely on A/C.
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>Metal roofs are good, but have to have several layers of insulation which will dampen the sound.
If you put metal roofing over solid decking rather than over purlins, then the sound isn't very bad. It only gets "medium" loud during super heavy downpours.

>air from the crawl space under the house
Another issue with this is that when you're in a hot humid climate, drawing cool air from the crawlspace necessarily draws hot humid air from outside into the crawlspace as makeup air. It then hits the cooler surfaces under the house, condenses, and can contribute to moisture issues.

If I were trying to design for no AC in that climate, I would try to use several good suggestions in this thread; dogtrot or similar styles, outdoor cooking facilities, nice shade trees, and light colored metal roofing.

I'd try to go for ceiling fans in every living space too (possibly dc 12V to combine with a low end solar setup). I'd also make sure to setup some kind of outdoor shower situation. It makes life SOOO much nicer during hot summer days to be able to rinse down with cool water and then get dry and fresh with the mild breeze or outdoor air and sun.
Not sure how unconventional you're willing to go, but there are a number of innovative ways to utilize convection style cooling. It's common in the middle east, as I understand.

Permaculturalists have a bunch of designs where the input is adjacent to the home or even further away shrouded by plants/forest. Air intake comes from low to the ground, sometimes with a water reservoir (would add cleanliness challenge, as you would need to keep the stagnant water from growing whatever).

Draft tubes go up to the chimney and implement some kind of vent turbine to help cycle the air better. The sun heats the exhaust and natural convection pulls the cool air through the ground intake into the house, while pulling the hot air out thru the roof.
>minimize interior heat during the summer
Lots of insulation, lots of solar panels, lots of AC
Interesting, never heard of this. Sort of reminds be of a poor man's geothermal. Instead of the machinery, just PVC of considerable length was buried. Don't remember if both openings were in the same structure.
Also keep the heat down, i.e. LEDs, though they still get hot (perhaps a modern skylight). Wonder if there's a benefit to venting the fridge outside, similar to keeping the heat down/out with the second kitchen.
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>Another issue with this is that when you're in a hot humid climate, drawing cool air from the crawlspace necessarily draws hot humid air from outside into the crawlspace as makeup air. It then hits the cooler surfaces under the house, condenses, and can contribute to moisture issues.

How is this solved, anyway?

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It's a shame corded tools no longer have a purpose.
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Nice extension cord. Will help keep the 2nd battery in the charger close by, instead of having to walk back to the garage.
rotary hammer drill is probably one of the few tools that is still preferred with a cord.
they have a purpose, but only for people who aren't dumb fucks who don't puncture the wire with conductive shit and electrocute themselves
Fuck you battery jew I'm not falling for your schemes!

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Thread in need of proprietary replacement cartridge:>>2381557

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Incredibly comprehensive list of electronics resources:
Additional resources below:

>Project ideas:

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refrigerant loops are brazed. Fridge is fucked unless you feel like learning how to do that. Also, that smell isn't the r134 itself, it's probably the oil that came out with it.
update to kicad 6 buddy, you are missing out. Add some mounting holes.
i do not feel like it, lol. i am sure that i am paying like 1/4 of my elec bill for this old ass 18 yo one, so i'll probably save more energy on this energy efficeient one i ordered in the long run.
Could arguably buy a replacement compressor + coolant loop, but probably more expensive than a decent 2nd hand fridge.
>nasty shit on the bottom

every fridge has that, BTW, in case you never looked before.
it's the defrost water that accumulates in an evaporating pan.
it gets black and evil looking after a few years.

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So I have a metal 24x40 garage with out insulation or concrete pad.

I'm considering gutting it all and pouring some concrete down and buying the cheapest possible insulation so stuff stops rotting in the summer when the heat becomes unbearable.

I was considering selling this and building a shop in its place as stick frame is alot better imo.

Realistically speaking, how much would I be looking to spend to get my garage in a comfy state to do work in?
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I have no clue, I'm considering stick framing and breaking g down the garage as it's a kit and rear staked into the groumd
The first thing I would do is rotate the garage 180 degrees so you can work on the ground instead of the ceiling.
But then flooding would again be an issue.
Crop them before you post them and it won't happen
double bubble foil insulation. it's fantastic at blocking out radiant heat from metal surfaces. it's usually installed during the building process because it needs an air gap from the sheel metal to work, to install it into an existing building you'll have to rig up some strapping to fix it too so it's not making direct contact to the sheeting. this is probably the cheapest solution. finding a contractor to do some closed cell spray foam insulation would work but will be way more expensive.

So the door to my room doesn't lock, and my computer faces the door. I'm sick of people barging in and seeing what I'm doing.
What the easiest way to make a simple door lock to get some privacy?
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aside from being a cheap shit, OP is probably this stupid as well...pic related
why revive shitty dead threads tho
OP got mad and went home to mommy several days ago.
>former pedant of the year award winner
Why former? Was it discovered you 'won' against a chick?
Latch bolt...but also put a metal plate on the floor outside and wire and outlet to the knob and plate for extra fuck off.

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Okay so the dumbfuck before me put everything down with mastic. I'm assuming that my cracked subway tile (1") shower pan has the same problem as after drying the shower for two days it squishes and tiny bits of water come out.

Is there a way to fix it without chipping out the whole pan and starting from scratch? Is there a watertight pan under this shit that I even can redo? Any cheapers stopgaps like pour on epoxy?
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>can i nigger rig it?
you are a fucking retarded
this is the only acceptable answer
How does this happen so often? The person who can install that definitely knows the difference.

*Mexicans don't know or care
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>How does this happen so often
Have you seen the current state of construction in the year 20+2000+2?
I'd have more faith in the build quality and structural rigidity of a chinesium tent bought off amazon than I would with a newly built american house.
The amount of corners cut nowadays makes me surprised every new house isn't just a fucking circle.
Nah. Some of the gazebos and sheds Wayfair sells make you want to run away before they collapse. Several gazebos use a transparent plastic cardboard for roofing. It looks cool at first but will become brittle over time. They cannot withstand hail or a stick strike. The plastic sheds would explode to the koolaide man if they dont blow over first.

Generally with bad tile I expect to see lippage everywhere, poor layout, missed transitions, grout covering everything but the tile gaps.

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