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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

Anyone have any idea how to make on of these? My professor said they are too expensive, but I need it for my research.
I have seen a few DIY projects online that use a vortex, but they look more like mixers rather than a cell disrupter. I need a lot of force to disrupt the cells.
I'm not sure what motor I would need.
just do it by hand, pretend it's your dick. also there are some on ebay right now for $300.
strap vial to blade of sawzall

pull trigger


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New place I live in has newer washer/dryers with digital displays. We just had them replaced because the old washer had an error code, so they replaced both?

Anyway, now the dryer is shutting off after 5 minutes or so and making a loud droning sound. Sometimes it'll ask for the water tray to be emptied, sometimes it won't. But in either case I've emptied it along with the filter inside the door.

Considering its brand new I can't help but think they fucked up somewhere when it was installed, or maybe this heat pipe in the back is the real issue.

Any insight appreciated
The back area in this little closet its contained in was pretty wretched (And still kind of is) I don't know shit all about dryers, but my working theory is that if that pipe is as full of aids as I think it is, the heat is being pushed back into the dryer and maybe causing the motor to overheat.
Very likely. Where is the outlet? Check that too. Lint builds up in there it gets hot, thermal shit trips, especially if you have some grate/vent outlet shit where it catches. It should come apart with little more than a screwdriver if you even need that.
I think the outlet is in behind somewhere I can't reach without pulling them out. I'm kinda iffy about messing with anything electrical since this building is kinda old. Though if thats the other thing It could be I'll mention it to the landlordAADWVJ
doesn't give make and model number of dryer
doesn't look up the manual and read the troubleshooting
posts his fuckery on 4chan

nothing but bad mistakes.
The outlet is probably outside. Look around the outside of the building for a ~6”x6” vent or slightly larger than whatever that tubing is. You may even find some lint on the ground directly under the vent. Take the cover off and see if it’s a bird nest.

The lights in my house randomly flicker, sometimes for a few minutes at a time. the APCs that my computers are plugged into have a red indicator light on the back that states "Wiring fault" and sometimes will switch on to battery power over and over after powering on a pc or someone using a hair dryer. so I got a tester and every single outlet says that ground is open. everything I have read from brainlets online claim the tester must be broken and give no other advice. but I tested it at another house and it works fine. how do I go about fixing this without killing myself or burning down my house? I can't afford an electrician right now and its kinda concerning.
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OP doesn't know what he's doing no one here is going to be able to tell him the problem. just speculate.
step 1
go to youtube
step 2
search for how to troubleshoot ground faults
step 3
say thank you.
You still have to pull the permit and get the inspection even if you do your own work. If the guy next door does it without attending to those things first, then he would have anyway (cause he ain't no bootlicker, amiright?).
you don't need a permit to repair electrical, only if you are going to redo the whole thing.

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Vanlife fails thread
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My van aspirations:

-smooth ride
-reliable to drive around daily
-comfortable bed
-electric fan that can run for at least a full night while I sleep
-hot coffee
-heat for chilly weather
-don't need a kitchen, don't need a bathroom

What kind of investment am I looking at here? I just want something to be able to drive 6 hours away, stay a night or three, and then come home.
Extra Question: thoughts on the Buick Roadmaster Station Wagon for the same usage? They have very comfortable rides and get better mileage than most vans.
Add a cab on the back and you've got yourself a Grade A Vanana.
Yeah but if you're travelling for work then the hotels are all paid for by the company
>coffee addict, most likely sugar addict as well
you'll never make it

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Tell me a story of your local hardware store uncle ben
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>I needed something for my car, usually you go to where it is and look it up in the book that they keep near the things I need.
>No book.... An older gentleman that worked there asked if I needed anything, I asked where the book is? he said they don't have them anymore because they keep getting stolen. Nice!

>I go to the counter and speak with disinterested employee:
Me: I need 2 of x for my car.
>jogger: what make and model?
Me: (I tell him what my car is).
>jogger: (looks it up and walks over to the shelf, starts walking back with only one).
Me: No, I need two of them.
>jogger: (in barely audible mumble) can't want what we don't have...
Things will just happen if no one does anything. Whites were too scared to die in another war, so things just happened.
They mislabeled the boxwoods (or their supplier did) so I bought a bunch of winter gem but turns out they are green mountain which can’t handle the sun here
Ultra based old man
>8' length of trim
>sitting on top of a sheet of plywood
>sitting right next to an 8' 2x4
>tell cashier it's 8'
>insists on measuring it
Its like home depot is staffed exclusively with retards. Gotten a few free things from distracted cashiers miscounting or outright missing items in plane sight.

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I want to extend / redirect my wood stove's air intake. Where's the best place to find thin walled solderable pipe? Ideally at least 2.5 inches ID.
probably wherever you got that pic from.

good luck because I've looked for similar things and it's near impossible to find somewhere online that isn't ridiculously expensive.

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What is with this huge trend of shipping container houses, why wouldn't you just build a fucking frame for less than it costs for the fucking container and actually make a home or something? Am I missing something here? Is this actually good for cheap housing on lots in the middle of nowhere or just some hipster faggy social media trend
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Would wonder what the RF shielding is like in one of those. I get a shit signal in my house as is, if I was surrounded by thick metal walls, feels like I would get an even worse signal.
>What is with this huge trend of shipping container houses
Welcome to 10 years ago.
Since when do people park their car in their garage?
>learning things is for cucks
KYS yourself in a fire. The world will be a better place.
Diesel Creek picked up some storage/office units from Ritchie Bros auction site, you can get that stuff dirt cheap that way. Buying new is dumb, unless it's by a corporation.

Look at this:


Starting bid, $5. But there's enough there for a small cabin type build, just add plumbing and power.

The gotcha is, you have to come get it with your own truck. But field offices and other buildouts in shipping containers are dirt cheap in the industrial auction world.

Hell, you can get a polycarb greenhouse, unopened in it's crate, on the Ritchie Bros site, someone dumped a shit load of them on there.

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So the house that I am in has no central air because apparently this region while arid as fuck doesn't make them mandatory, the master bedroom faces the street so I don't want to put a window AC in it in case of blacks, so I have a window AC in the other bedroom which I use as my office and installed a door in the hallway to seal up the back two rooms from the rest of the house.

I want to move the air from the office to the master bedroom when the AC is on but don't want to have a couple box fans just sitting on the ground for that purpose because it would be annoying getting around them all the time, what would be a good way to move the air from the office into the master? I thought about cutting a hole in the closet in the office and just putting a small fan in there, pretty simple but fucking up the drywall is a pain. I also thought about just having some ductwork by the doors to pull air in from up top using a fan but then I would have to worry about cutting a hole in the doors or having it just outside them

Any ideas?
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Why show thieves an air-conditioner that can easily be stolen by breaking a window frame?
if you rent, get a portable ac; if you own, put the ac in the wall
Why show thieves a window that can be easily broken by smashing glass? Just seal up the wall and huddle in fear.
Windows have bars in the hood.
Well I guess the argument about putting an air conditioner in one would be moot then

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based doggo. if only.
>You have been visited by best shedding dog, all of your nails and screws will go in straight and flush if you call him a good boy.
Good boy
Sleep tite steeler

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I think my great grandfather had mental issues. I live in a house he built in the 1940s, he basically did everything himself. I was checking for leaks in the attic yesterday while it was storming and ran into picrel. Anyone know the structural benefit for missing a rafter 8 times in one spot?
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If you ever replace old fences, you almost always find a shitload of beer cans and pint bottles buried underneath every post.
The subhumans of the future who take apart my house won't even know what they're looking at, they'll just be looting the copper.
Nah you're just fucking wrong and have nothing to back up your shitty hot take.
imagine losing your house to looters after you die
And you base your opinion on a single anecdote, that in fact proves the other Anon's point.

I've spent 100 bucks over the last 3 months on traps and almost none none of them have worked. The best luck I've had is with glue traps but in the last 3 months I've only caught like 5 small mice and none of the big ones, especially after this ugly fat ass brown rat that's been raiding my cupboard. Not sure what to do, at a point where I'm worried they may be doing some structural damage.
Traps I've tried
>Steel cages
>Trap door buckets
I think 1 or 2 may fallen for these but they managed to climb there way out somehow
I got these big yellow bricks, they've really been touching them even though I've dabs of peanut butter and other bait around them.
>Glue traps
I I've used both panels and mats, even though the panels are a decent size, the big fuckers seem to be able to snatch the bait without stepping on them. The mat catch the small ones, but the bigger ones seem to straight up ignore them even though there like 4 feet long and a foot wide and naturally smell like butter with out any bait.
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What are other ratting breeds developed around the world, I know chihuahuas were bred for it.
First, make sure you buy rat traps, not mouse traps to catch rats. Second, the best way to get rid of rats and mice is to buy a cat, the smell alone will make them flee. Third, if that's not an option, use poison and seal all food in air tight containers that they cannot chew through.
Almost any terrier
any DIY recipe for mouse x? seems to work well.
My best luck with mice (not rats, but I imagine it scales up) has been with putting a big pile of food (oats work for mine) under a cabinet, and then completely surrounding it with snap traps, so that it's not physically possible to reach the food without touching the pressure plates. It'll be loud as fuck when it goes off, and you'll have to reset the other traps that will inevitably go off in a chain reaction, but it works.

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Previous thread: >>2571738

Here we discuss microcontrollers, SBCs and microcontroller accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)

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I'm not talking about Apple's M1 and M2 chips, because they're ARM. I'm talking about RISC-V SBCs, the so-called "Linux boards" in the post I replied to. Learn to reading comprehension.
Even the latest amd and intel processors start up in this microcontroller-like state known as “real mode” which is a bit like an 80186/80286 era thing… Of which, we had microcontrollers.
Are the peripherals even documented? And good luck trying to use advanced stuff like the GPU. Are the Apple chips even available to the general market? I would even suspect that whatever bootloader this thing has is locked down to only execute code signed by Apple.
>Are the peripherals even documented
Probably not for apple since they're not aimed at outside developers to write bare-metal code for. But SBCs like the raspberry pi have been used to run bare metal code before, so I suspect there's some degree of documentation for them.
>good luck trying to use advanced stuff like the GPU
It's just a matter of whether it's documented or not. Even if it isn't, it's probably possible to reverse engineer a C compiler to see how it sends data to and from the GPU (especially generic data like for machine learning), and use some smarts to figure out how to get that same structure without an OS. But I'm hardly knowledgable about this.
>Are the Apple chips even available to the general market
No they're not. That said, you might be able to use a mac mini this way if you could reflash the bios, which you probably can. But when it comes to processors this powerful you really need to know what the fuck you're doing to write bare metal code for them. You're almost always best off running either a lightweight linux distro, or some sort of RTOS, and developing code to run atop that.
>But when it comes to processors this powerful you really need to know what the fuck you're doing to write bare metal code for them.
You make it sound so hardcore, but I've written bare metal for 32 bit ARM CPUs before, that use the same architecture as desktop class CPUs. The Apple CPUs use AArch64, but it's not that different, and it's the same architecture as 64 bit RPIs. All the mystery is in the peripherals, which are not standardized.

Stupid questions that don't deserve their own thread.

Ask your "stupid" questions here! Or come answer some questions if you feel like it.

>Previous thread
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Spruce is an extremely soft wood, I wouldn't use it for a support for anything that would kill you if it collapses. Debark it right away, split it, then keep it in a dry shaded area like a barn for at least a year, but maybe closer to 2 years.
It's because for a lot of us poorfags the choice is do it cheap or don't do it at all. Besides, it's a huge source of pride when you actually pull together a project and get a satisfactory result doing the job MacGyver-style. It might not be perfect, but you can make a world of improvement on a shitty old Jeep 4.0 by pulling the head, lapping the ever living shit out of the valves until you can't see the flashlight anymore, throwing a new head gasket in and slapping it back together.

Besides, XJ owners today are all morons, we bought the things from the last owner who was smart enough to know a lost cause when he saw one and cut his losses
Is there a difference between a boiler for a hydronic baseboard heating system and a boiler for a hydronic radiant under-floor heating system?
The texture on the rebar is used to help the steel hold in the concrete. It will still hold as long as you make sure concrete goes in the tube as well as around it. It just won't be as reinforced as it would be with rebar.

Not really. It's both in-floor heating. Just make sure the heater can handle the correct volume, temperature, and pressure for the space and you should be fine.

UK anons, I need to get roofing work done but the company who gave me a quote said that because I have a shared valley with my neighbours I need to get their permission, and that I would essentially end up paying for work to my neighbours roof anyway.

My question is what options I would have in case my neighbours decide to be shitty about it and refuse permission?
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big kek from me too. Bongs are funny like that
Thanks, good to know the law isn't completely retarded then
get another quote from a roofer who doesn't give a fuck about their side.
>be white supremacist
>be surprised that neighbors don't feel like helping you
have you considered that you might be the problem here?
4 chan has taken this into consideration, has followed all protocol, investigated itself and has found nothing wrong.

Have a good day sir.

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