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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Multi tool thread show me your tools.
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Once you send it in, get it repaired, get it shipped back, you’ll notice the second you try to do real work with it, it’ll just break again
There is a reason people make fun of multi tool larp faggots
It's been broken for 7 years. I figured the warranty wouldn't do shit and I just didn't care enough anyways. I only use it in a pinch for gunsmithing shit anyways.
No, it makes you reasonable
I'm sure the people of Sodom said the same thing to Lot.
Shut up fag

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>Screw this

kek. Bring your bests
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sexual harassment isn't a great prank
coworker taped my mouse sensor so I taped down his phone's hangup switch
took a solid couple mins into a client call for him to figure it out lol
When I was a retailfag we would hide security stickers in each other's belongings to make the alarm go off at the front door. You can do this to your friends and it will probably work in other stores as well.
yea its cliche. next time i get hold of an unlocked computer im doing a coming out as a racist post
Worked in a foreign police station. We would put needles from the local AIDS clinic in our coworkers chair cushions. Also it was common to have a couple of complete uniforms strait from the cleaners hung behind your desk in case you had to go see the Commissioner or go to the delegation. Another needle magnet.

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Anyone have any experience buying used solar panels? Is ebay the best deal? Is it elbow grease workable or something that will fail as soon as I buy?
mail the seller and ask for the "good" output. You can sue him later, if its less. After that you can buy them, if you need them. They are cheap in comparison.
I have some I got for free. $ per watt ebay is good. As long as solar panels aren't cracked they will work fine. They dont really go bad, they just lose some output(about 1% per year for 20 years then basically no more loss). The concern I have is that the power company wont connect my old panels to the grid.
>The concern I have is that the power company wont connect my old panels to the grid.
You're not going to make money back with old panels. Be happy you're cutting your consumption -- turning a slurp into a sip from the grid.

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what do i need to unscrew this? it's for the scales on my pocket knife
If you're lucky you own a flat screwdriver that fits.

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Previous bread >2227446

So can anyone know of a really long heat gun nozzle? The ice maker on my fridge has an IR transceiver it uses to determine if the ice tray is full. The problem is that the ice maker frequently gets filled full of frost which covers the IR transceiver, and causes the computer to stop giving me ice. I've been fixing this with a cordless heatgun, but even after standing there for 20 minutes or so and using an entire M18 8.0AH battery, there is still more frost build up. Does anyone know if they make a really long heat gun nozzle, like 8-12" long I could use to get the heat right up on the frost rather than just filling the entire ice maker with heat?
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This is my first time trying anything like this, literally never heard of any of what you mentioned lol Do you have any particular software to recommend? I found autodesk when searching for CAD but I have no actual idea if it's any good
What are you trying make anyway? If it's a simple enough design you could even draw it by hand, as long as you properly dimension and define all the features but seeing how you're new to engineering drawings idk if you'll know what to dimension. Also if it it's a complicated design that requires a CNC router, your "wood dude" may prefer you drawing it in CAD and sending him the file directly. You've also mentioned precision, but the precision of the cuts would be limited by the dude's machines and tools..... seems like you should just consult your dude first and see what they need from you exactly.

Autodesk is an alright brand and they are offering Fusion360 for free to hobbyists, so there's quite a lot of help material out there. I think there's a /diy/ pasta for freeware CAD somewhere and it includes SketchUp and some branch of FreeCAD.
when joining two pieces of wood together, do I let the glue set first and then hammer in nails, or hammer in the nails while the glue sets?
>hammer in the nails while the glue sets?
>I'd be worried about melting the plastic. if you do, your ice will smell like plastic offgassing forever.
thats why im using an anemic cordless heatgun rather than some 1200+ watt corded one

the nails will act as a clamp, which most glues need to achieve full strength. hammering nails afterwards is just going to stress the glue join and crack it.

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Thread for tips and ideas on how to save money every month.

I bought a new home this year, and my bills are dumb high. Just paid almost $300 for the last month's usage.

These are the things I'm looking to do next year:
>tint all of the windows to lower thermal radiation
>replace the water heater (it's almost dead anyways)
>replace the AC units (also almost dead)
>maybe buy a solar setup for the roof, but that shit is like $20 USD.
House is two story, 3000 sqft. Has split AC setup, 3ton bottom 2ton top. What is a good AC brand I should use? Thinking carrier or train.
Have a wood stove.
Have over 6" of insulation in the attic and it's fresh.
I'm in central TX near a lake. Weather is pretty good here most of the time (no tornadoes and lake rains during the summer).

Any other ideas?
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After doing some looking around I think I'm going to go with this one:
A.O. Smith Signature 900 50-Gallon
I see it's highly rated on a lot of sites, but this review really sold me.

>I bought one to replace my parents old water heater. I've dont my research and decided to go with this model. I installed it for them and it was fairly simple. Took about 3 hours from start to finish. They had hot water within an hour. Here's were it get interesting! I have a power monitor on my home as well as my parents home. I noticed it was using around 318 watts in hybrid mode. The elements only kicked on for about 45mins on the initial start up. Since then, They have been only using the heat pump. It will run for about an hour after a shower at 318 watts. With the standard water heater it would use 4800 watts for about 30-45mins. I can see the power savings live! I decided to replace mine too! Ive been monitoring it for the past week and the elements have only kicked on one time. There was 3 showers within 45mins. We never ran out of hot water and it did its job! You really cant go wrong with one of these units! The noise is not a problem. It's no louder than an older refrigerator. On the plus side of saving energy, I no longer need to run my dehumidifier since this unit will dehumidify as it runs! There's another 700w saved in energy! Again, I highly recommend this 50 gallon hybrid water heater! For the record, I was not asked or paid to write this review! It's just that good of a unit!
Yes, some devices draw power in a stand-by mode rather than completely turning off. DVR, TVs, and cable boxes are the worst offenders here. It could save about $20-30 to unplug when not in use.
Is the Tesla solar roof thing a good deal? Anything I should know about solar in general before I start investigating it seriously?
I heard that some places you can't sell excess energy back to the grid, is that a provider thing or municipal?
The ROI is usually decades unless you live in some shithole with $0.50/kwh electricity. Most electricity distributors are really picky when it comes to backfeeding into the grid and yeah sometimes they won't let you. When they do they will pay you $0.01/kwh.
Thanks, fuck that then. It's already more expensive than my current bill even if I go with their smaller option. Wouldn't break even for like 13 years.

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I need to make someone move out of their house.

My girlfriend shares a two bedroom house with a prototypically bad roommate. Her roommate, a 21 year old woman, is probably suffering a mental breakdown, and I am concerned for my girlfriend because I believe her roommates behavior is causing her undue stress.

The roommate smokes weed and lays on the couch or sleeps for most of the day. She's most active from 4pm-4am when she invites her friends to hang out at the house, daily. They typically smoke weed and chat, which disturbs my girlfriends studying and sleep. One of the friends has essentially moved into the house, sometimes coming over when no one is home. Besides this, the roommate is dirty (Ieaving food and such behind the couch for days), smokes weed inside, and is frequently late in paying for shared financial responsibilities (she has a job, but spends all of her money on doordash and weed). She has agreed to change these behaviors, but as expected has not and is the type of person to brag openly about her negative qualities (lying, slovenliness, etc) as if to say "I'm so great I can get away with being a bad person". Recently, my girlfriend was taking a proctored online exam and had asked not to be interrupted, and the roommate of course entered loudly with her friends and told my girlfriend to go to her bedroom mid-exam. I could go on, but suffice to say her roommate is inconsiderate. We have exhausted polite options, as any requests for change in behavior are seen as criticism and met with vitriol. It is abundantly obvious that her roommate is depressed, but my girlfriend's most sincere effort to get her to see a therapist failed.

So, how can I make this girl move out of her house? Smoking inside is clearly breaking rules of the lease, but my girlfriend has said that she doesn't want to go that route, and by that I think she means she doesn't want to do anything obviously spiteful to make her leave.
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Assuming it's illegal where you live...Wait til 1am when they are drunk and high and their weed sacks on the table and the apartment smells like weed, then call 9-1-1. Have gf wait outside the front door with key in hand. She can briefly explain the situation to responding police about her non-involvement and victimhood. Let the police inside
Is the roommate a hambeast?
Here's a diy solution: be a man, marry this girl and move her in with you if she's wife material or help her be an adult by supporting her to solve her own problems if not.
call cops on her lol
Electronic dog chaser aimed at where she sleeps. Also White House emitter when you guys go out.

Is /diy/ /fa/? Do you wear Carhartt, LL bean and other good quality clothes that last when working? Or do you just wear whatever? I hope you at least wear good boots.
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>quality boots
>cheap shit everything else
Zenni glasses suck major dick, the optics are terrible and the frames are cheap trash.
You unironically get what you pay for
Only things to buy new are plain white t-shirts, boxer briefs and socks

Some trusty boots that have probably had about two or three owners before they got to me, daily drivers.

Goodwill everything else, fix and stitch whatever tears or rips, wear it until it falls apart. Buy long pants and shirts, cut them down as it gets warmer.

I mostly did lawn care, construction and deep cleaning at restaurants before the military so all my clothes were pretty much a reflection of that. Self confidence, looking a bit unhinged and the funk of a hard day's work is a fashion statement.
i have a carhartt jacket too. Not the waterproof kind, but actually really good. It survived the first season in demolition last year and the shit i do on weekends, which is more of the outdoor/diy kind. Let's see how it does in the second year, but it feels really tough. Also it can be washed to not look so filthy.

I also wear whatever jeans are available. I have quite a collection, so i dont wear the same filthy jeans everyday. T-Shirts Pullover is the same, nothing specific. First hand, second hand...
In my workshop I wear Dickies and cover it with a denim apron. Short sleeve only because of grinder grab. Wash my hands with simple green or rubbing alcohol before laundry soap. Shower and then to go out wear carhartts and wedge sole moccasins toe boots. Look the part and still stay a little clean.

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Do anons use an electric screwdriver? Care to recommend one?
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your shit nearly convinced me to buy an impact driver when I realised I can use my old cordless drill which has torque settings on it with a hexagon extension bar so I'll have the quickchange of impact drivers + torque settings for cheaper
>I realised I can use my old cordless drill which has torque settings on it

Those are not comparable. The clutch mechanism on a drill is to *limit* torque, while the impact is used to *amplify* torque. An equivalent impact will have way more driving power than a drill, and won't rip your hand off to do it.
also impact driver is lighter, grips the screw better and through the impact you really do not need to hold against the torque. Impact drivers are crazy good for screws and bolts.
This. I used it to for my ikea kitchen and it works like a charm
to fit into a duffel bag

Is there anyone with some HVAC knowledge here, I need a question about a smell of incense burning coming out of the air conditioner at a rented place. I also smell this when I was incarcerated and it's just at a certain times, i guess it's an old jail sometimes smell cigarettes too, but this is at home and same smell, same irritant to my brain eyes it makes me feel like im breathing in incense thanks
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Could be from something not AC but damn it's an irritant
>smell of incense burning coming out of the air conditioner at a rented place

when I smell burning I immediately think electrical fire. have you called landlord?
that is entirely too vague.
your air conditioner and heating system are one and the same for all intents and purposes. is it coming out of your ducts?
if its incense smelling than the previous tenants probably burned incense or smoked indoors. your coil could also be dirty or it could be your squirrel cage.
tell the landlord they either need a duct sanitation, a coil cleaning or to find a new tenant that's not a retard.
If you have autism just buy a portable Air Scrubber and let that thing fly.
When you smell it, does going outside help?
Allergies can mess up your sense of smell. Happens to me certain times of the year.

Alternatively, someone maybe tossed one of those scent sachets into the AC.

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Thread got acid trap'd >>2223419

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

>Don't ask, roll:

>Archive of Popular Electronics magazines (1954-2003):

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Well, if you're designing both sides of the connection, why not? Grounds for each signal wire are only important if you're having signal integrity issues, which are usually a function of trying to push high bit-rates. If you're considering UART you're probably not worried about high bit-rates.
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I have an idea for a basic set of target turners for my range and was hoping someone more knowledgeable in small electronics could point me in the right direction.

My goal is an array of turning targets that can address three positions- to show the front, back, and side profiles on a cardboard silhouette on command. That allows shoot/no shoot exercises as well as leaving some targets inactive for some strings. The picture is demonstrative, my intent is to build a lighter and smaller PVC frame (more easily moved too). The target could be mounted atop a long rod like that used for 3d printer Z-axes or if necessary a belt driven arrangement, but I don't think that will be required as the target weight for the rotating component is around 1.5 lbs. I think a Nema 23 will handle this at the acceleration I would like to have. I would like the motor to be housed far from the target because I train some horrendous shooters at times. The agency I work for values diversity over competency in new hires and fear of firearms is no disqualifier...

That is simple, but I'd like to be able to control 3 to 5 of the targets at once, and wirelessly (via RF) would be ideal. That's where I get lost. My ideal would be five nema 23s wired to individual targets, controlled by a small switch box using 3 position rocker switches. Power for the motors and electronics could be supplied by power tool batteries. Mobility of each unit independent of the others is highly desirable for stage setup.

If I had to I could get away with having all the motors connected to a single board and be wired to each other if five RF modules is a nonstarter. That just seems like a wiring nightmare for something that will be packed and moved a lot, but I could just run the whole thing off a marine battery if done that way.

This is a very immature design in the formative stages but if anyone has any input or would like to point me towards a better idea or that would simplify things I would appreciate it.
i am using mine with a 24V 6A brick and it is truly amazing experience, it heats up in seconds and solders everything
12V is only to be used in a pinch, like when your car breaks down on the road and you need to solder a wire in the engine so you can hook the ts100 up directly to the car battery
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does this clearance also apply above and below?

I guess basic research shows a DC motor would be better than a stepper due to power consumption.

Are there any automated motors specifically made to move to a set number of positions? Like some sort of 3 position unit would be perfect.

Looks like I can probably finagle the wireless aspect with rf2401s, which doesn't look too bad to figure out. I would love it if it was essentially just as simple as providing an "address" for the individual position of each target and being able to just send that wirelessly.

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brew coming along nicely edition
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For beer making when the grain is malted that just means it "unlocks" or makes the enzymes needed to break down the starch, so you still need to hold the mash at a temp + time.
No you still need to mash your malted grains
Nah that's totally fine
Just started a second fermentation on five gallons of apples cider.
Initial gravity was 1.45 at the time of the transfer it was .95.
Tasted ok. But very bland. Not dry, not sweet. Just sort of a little apple-y and flat.

I think I may have underpitched the yeast.
What do you guys think?
Probably not too spicy. Hopefully will taste good.

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This is the thread to discuss everything machining related. Lets talk about speeds and feeds, your shitty home brew cnc router and the bottom of the barrel pay this industry has.
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use a burner labtop or vm if its a program that need better then potato specs
>I can't really find "shaper bits
Don't you just take a HSS blank and grind it to whatever shape you need?
this shit look like a toy. find yourself a drill that look like pic related.
Nobody expect you to “really care”, it’s frivolous small talk. Normal human interactions.
It’s very odd when you lack the ability to do so.
It's definitely not suited for any kind of precision work. The head is not very stable around the column and there's nothing you can do about it, and more importantly the chuck has like half to a full millimeter radial play at the end by design: there's a plain deep grove bearing at the bottom and ringless needle bearing at the top, no preload or adjustment or anything. Some people apparently won the tolerances lottery, but mine wobbled like all fuck out of the box. It's not that much of a problem actually since the drill stabilizes itself once it goes in, just don't expect the hole to be at the exact place you want it to. The insides are basically of the corded hand drill and it sounds like one as well.
On the pro side it has quite a bit of oomph, and you can lift it with one hand.

New home owner here, the house came with a hot tub.
I used it once as it was filled, and noticed it had a small leak. I left it alone for a month just topping it off with the garden hose. Pump was on circulating water.
Decided to find the leak, and fix it.
I drained the tub, cleaned everything, filled it back up with hose water from the well, and 2 days later it's all covers in this chauky film. I used a hot tub shocker powder, and added chlorine. .ran a test strip and it's all high in ph, alkiline, and hardness. The pool supplies they left me are all ph increase, alkiline increase, nothing to lower it.
Quick Google told me this is calcium.
So I guess I have to drain it, scrub it, and refill with house water that has my softener. I don't have a single outlet where I can attach a hose, so I need to figure that out first.
What else should I add to it after filling it with softened water?
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The only hot bitch is the wife, and maybe her sister. She hates me tho
Missed a shot of black. It's required in this case . Any professional pool supplier would have known the pH of a shot of black can offset calcium alkalinity.
bruh, you're supposed to use a test strip first before you add anything to the water to see where your starting point is. my tap water is already in the perfect range, and all i need to do is put in 1 small chlorine tablet.
test your tap water. you might not need to mess with softened water, most people dont.
I added a packet of pool shock. did a test strip, and added more chlorine.
ive been adding garden hose water to the tub for a month now and it didnt have this scaly build up. now that i drained it and replaced all the water, its all scaly.
i have well water so its straight from the well.
im gonna drain it, scrub it, flush it, and fill with softened water this time. and post pics of what it looks like now.
also, what other pool chemicals do i need to buy? i have alkaline and ph increase, but no decrease
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Here is what it looks like 2 days after filling

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