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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

Building new fence to replace old one. Painting it barn door red. Parents say it looks like shit. What do?
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you don't paint fences red. You paint them white because it's tradition. That used to be the cheapest way to treat a fence back in the day. The white provides a nice contrast against the grass.

Red is spooky and looks like something a lithe man with thin wrists and a digital watch might want.
>you don't paint fences red.
says who?
>You paint them white because it's tradition.
lol fuck traditions
>That used to be the cheapest way to treat a fence back in the day.
get rekt poorfags
>The white provides a nice contrast against the grass.
well, not all ppl want contrast and a shitload of grass

This is why burgers/anglosphere always makes me laugh. Instead of some inovation or trying a change it's always muh tradition and being completery rigid and stuck in the past.
>This is why burgers/anglosphere always makes me laugh. Instead of some inovation or trying a change it's always muh tradition and being completery rigid and stuck in the past.

You mean like when we nuked Japan?
Funny shit there bob
Lmao you're putting up a red fence, hardly a fucking revolutionary are you mate?

I have a small aluminum box (approx. 35*10*2 cm). I want to prevent the sound from by the parts inside from escaping it.
I'm thinking of lining the insides with melamine foam (sponge). The foam would probably be 5-7mm thick. Would that work? Or would the foam be too thin to make a difference?
If that's the case should I go for weight (mass loaded vinyl) instead of porous foam?
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Do you think a large mat would be much better than just feet?
I don't have much desk space so just sticking some feet on would be preferable.

Really it just comes down to choice of materials, I'll probably stick foam in every open cavity, even between PCB and plate.
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If you get feet that are specifically designed for anti-vibration it should work well enough. I've used pic related to isolate electronic drum kits in apartment buildings and houses before with good success.
Some other options



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Can I just get those 3M pads?
Those will be better than nothing I suppose, but since your pic related are designed primarily just to keep the keyboard in place, they won't do as nearly well as pads/feet that are designed specifically for vibration isolation.
Try the cheap stuff first if you are already set on lining the inside with foam/dampening material as that might be enough.
If it's still problematic then I'd opt for getting some iso feet.


If air is a good insulator, why do we even need thermal insulation? Put a bead of caulk on drywall and sheathing and profit, no?
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What causes concrete to cure in the chinesium.webm type consistency where the outer surface looks fine but inside is just sand? I have a whole ton of sidewalk I need to repair that is crumbling apart like a chink dystopia video. I've never seen shit like this irl.
The 10/10 approach is to curtain off the whole room with visquine (plus if you get a zipper you can install on the plastic) if not you just gotta make sure you have everything you need to finish the job and tape yourself in. Any surface that you are going to agitate that you suspect had mold needs to be soaked in something that will both kill the mold and not allow spores to get in the air. Undiluted bleach can work fine for this, if you want to go for broke he microban. vaccuum everything up using a hepa filter, take every singular speck of dust out in a double sealed thick garbage bag. And then when you are done with that soak everything with bleach/microban again and the sand until there are no traces of mold on any studs (plywood that is affected just toss and replace). And then put a powerful fan or two for a couple days to dry it all out.
I recently bought a new truck that came with a toolbox, so I'm upgrading my truck tool game from the chinesium prepackaged set in a plastic case that I was carrying around in the floorboard of my old truck.

I've got plenty of tools in my shed, just need something to put them in. The toolbox is waterproof, so I was thinking about getting a tote so I can just take out whatever I need at the time or pull the whole thing.

I was looking at the totes electricians use but not sure this is a great solution. What do I do with the sockets, for example? Plus they are expensive (though don't mind spending $$$ on a quality product).

Anyway I'd like to hear some non-five-gallon-bucket solutions for this.
Low cement content, and or letting it dry to quickly.

Once you're going to buy more than 5 bags it's time to bring in a truck. It will be cheaper.
There are no good solutions for portable sockets storage except the boxes they come in.

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how do i get the same result, i tried to cut thick paper, but it doesent work that well. i thogth to use plastic foil, but maybe some anon can give me a hint
i want to use a spray can on the template, but i think the paperlayer is not enough flat on the surface for the small details... should i use adhesive foil?

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I finally finished the fins on my new car, after some long, unexpected trouble. Here's the story of how I made my second, and then the third set of fins in my life. Here's the story and pictures of the full project.

Meanwhile, this car has brought up a question: How do you make chrome strips go straight- or what's even harder - in exactly right smooth curve to install them along the side of a car? I'm considering adding some strips to make the fins stand out better and add some shiny detail to the sides in general.
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'cause he's a fukkin stud

no samefagging from my end, just normal fagging. please see the attached image for your consideration.

OP post more pics of the vehicle including interior shots
he didn’t say that you were same fagging you ESL nigger, he was showing you and the other tard that we weren’t same fagging.
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That's an amazing amount of vitriol. I think you're just jealous of OP, not because of his car but because he has the balls to look how he wants.
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It's easier to make a practical car cool than make a cool car practical. I'm still baffled why car manufacturers think good looks and practicality have to be mutually exclusive.

Not all adults have given up on life. If they had, there wouldn't even be classic cars, muscle cars, or any kind of nice cars in general.

I could have afforded a new car, but why would I if it still looks like a turd? Even Corvette has mostly gotten more and more plain since the 70's, and Lamborghini since the 80's. The humiliating thing about the Passat was going from an unique Mazda to a plain boring stock car. I want to encourage more car modding, and that wouldn't work if I submitted to driving a soulless mass-produced blob myself.

In Finland, winter tires are mandatory during the winter. The picture was taken during the winter months although the climate has changed so much it looks like summer.

I haven't done anything to Passat's interior beside moving everything I could from Mazda there, but here's a pic of Mazda's land meter, voltimeter, and the start button. Fuel light is currently on because I had just turned on the power to photograph the new gauges backlights in action.
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Here's a closeup of how the landmeter is connected to the dashboard. I cut a hole to mount it in a place where there wasn't anything important behind it, and used a mixture of glue and black paint to smooth the seam. The hardest part was making sure it was straight when everything in the dashboard is curved one way or another, but I used a spirit lever to find a parking spot where the car was absolutely level before installing it.

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I want to design a simple ultralight aicraft from scratch.
i uderstand the aerodynamic part well enought but the structural side eludes me, how do designers calculate that their structure meet the desired strength ?
how do they know the correct mesure?

where can i learn about it?

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Hey /diy/ I've got a question about sanders.
What would tool would you recommend to use to texturize/sand down little curves into a wooden dowel or branch like this?

I tried using my orbital sander but that wasn't quite cutting it, then my dremel which was working great, but it went kill during the process.

I've been looking at something like a spindle bench sander, but that seems to be a little underpowered.
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I use a Rotozip as a much more powerful Dremel. The collets fit and the motor is designed for much greater side loading.
Just drill a hole in the fucking stick an glue a perfect dowel in dipshits.
that has nothing to do with the question
What exactly are you trying to say?

So I'm looking at getting some land and putting a relatively simple house on it, nothing too big or complicated and preferably something I can do myself. I've found myself a bit in love with the A frame layout and I'm starting to research how to build one but most of the plans I'm finding are for very very small houses and I'm not strictly sure how to frame one to code since the design is so unusual.

anyway post A frames
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Those are at least c's.
I give this post an A+
>dog trot house
>literal nigger shack

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Rate my shed. Its here on my isolated estate and it was $100 to build. Its been like this for a few months and I'll probably end up trying to save it. Might put plastic table clothes on the sides like siding and put a better door in.
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>save the structure
there is no saving that structure.
>I'll probably use these
Which these? the buckets? the beams? the posts? the saw horse legs? the concrete footings? you do know no one can read your mind?
they cost about as much as a cubic foot of concrete ought to, any hardware store should have them
I've met builders who started making stuff like this in the woods. You did it, OP. Now get out there and learn how to do more so you can be more dangerous.
>Uses shed
>Collapses and one of several things in photo goes up his ass and out through his liver.

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Arduino, Teensy, Atmel, ESP32, bluepill, Raspberry... All microcontrollers welcome!
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no, read more than one word
TBD = to be determined, aka "we don't know for sure yet", so that may have been a preliminary data sheet.
>Be glad the silicon is correct.
Because sometimes it isn't. (And sometimes it's the vendor libraries that are incorrect.)
he literally had a meetup with few anons from /g/ and didn't kick anyone in the face even though one of them looked like an absolute faggot
he did have his fist clinched in the photo they took together so idk
anyone have any idea why would replacing motors would cause an arduino to reset even though the motors have almost the same spec and i'm providing adequate voltage
Sounds like a current issue, check for shorts or for the motors pulling too much juice.

I need some recommendations on types of tools and accessories I should have for making clean precise cutouts in front panels for mounting connectors, displays, switches/buttons,etc. I don't do much heavy duty work and am rather more interested in high precision.
I'd be mostly working with plastic project boxes and maybe some die-cast aluminum. Possibly wood but probably only rarely. Willing to shell out a bit more for a good quality tool, not looking for Harbor Freight cheap tier.

Also, on a slightly different tack, if anyone has suggestions for a good milling machine for PCBs do tell.
16 replies omitted. Click here to view.
While the laser is interesting I feel like that's more for etching wood rather than PCBs and would be near useless when it comes to making actual cutouts in panels, particularly in die-cast aluminum project boxes.
From the first "friendly suggestion" in the single stickied post on this board:
"- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so."

The second sentence there is the important one that you seem to have missed.
Yeah the laser won't work for you (unless you can find a decently powerful fiber laser affordably). Some of those smaller home/shop CNCs (shop bot or cncshark are some, i think) can be finessed into cutting aluminum cleanly, but only certain alloys and grades; they should work for PCB too, just not crazy fine pitches. Honestly, you might be able to get away with a handheld router using templates and flush cutting bits. Get a decent deburring tool as well.
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Casually passing through, he's not an elitist asshole for saying what you're trying to ask is about tolerances, several times really, and then you wholly ignore that and talk about something else.

If you're pig ignorant to start with and lazy that's annoying but whatever, it's life. If you get told to stop being pig ignorant but anyway here is the thing you need to ask me about, then don't, then now you're wilfully ignorant and there's nothing that can be done to fix that kind of retarded and if so, certainly no obligation to further try. If you cannot into reading comrephension then you'll get nowhere, responding to people is not reading comprehension either, actually processing what they said and responding sensibly is. You know about tolerances, pick up the phone and make some calls and don't call people who are exasperated at your wilful retardedness, remember, WILFUL - elitist assholes. You begged for an answer, got it, then threw the answer in the bin. You're an idiot, do better next time.

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New thread, because the old one is practically at page 11.

Thread hymn.


Last thread: >>1892664

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
>Edge precision
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nice. now learn about ball end mills and how to use them to make smooth-looking paths with adaptive settings.
smol windmill
Is it typical to double feed to deal with chip thinning on a finish pass? That's what the chip thinning calculator gives me.
Finish pass is all about the finish, not tool life things like chip thinning.
I kept trying to take lighter passes with only small improvements because my thinned chip was only about a third of a though which results in rubbing I guess.

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any tips on DIY pilonidal cyst surgery? apparently it costs 4k to get one removed and I don't particularly feel like maxing out my deduct to have a glorified zit removed.

Current plan is lay down on a towel, prop a mirror behind me, and use another hand mirror to watch, use rubbing alcohol on both the location and razor blade to make the incision. Its hard to work at this location, think I might try to get an ugly (but unsqueamish) gf to help out. Then I could get drunk and let her make the cut.
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To build on this... To treat one that you already have get yourself some drawings salve. Iirc the kind available at most drug stores is called dep or something like that. It's a little orange tin of what looks like petroleum jelly mixed with tar. It pulls any skin infection to the surface and makes it purge itself from your body. Alternate using that and running alcohol to dry it out/kill bacteria. You gotta realize that these things are caused by hyperactive sweat glands. Surgery will not fix it because the sweat glands will just regrow.
biggest thing about a pilonidal is that it's got the main cyst and an exit point somewhere in your actual asscrack. look for a bunch of tiny dots. Somewhere in an invisible line between those dots and your cyst is a little nest of hair and pus. It's almost impossible to squeeze out that nest given it's location on your body. Surgery is pretty much the only way.

That being said, There has been a lot of success in getting laser hair removal to prevent it from ever coming back. some people use it as an alternative to surgery.
Going to be a hard squeez. Might think about suction instead. Modified vaccum attachment kinda thing.
consult merck professional manual. duh. if you didnt know it exists, you should understand you aren't equipped to handle possible complications.

sterile field, #11, curettes for debridement, and pipertazo or amoxclav. iodoform 1/4x5yd for packing, and good luck. id put mortality at 20% without antibiotics, and .1% with.
>I listened to a stupid woman that convinced me to shave all of my hair from the waste down.
You mean you were completely hairless below your waist? Who was this woman? Why did you do something like this? We’re you turned on squatting over a mirror and did your balks touch said mirror?

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Extrem Prusa Sleepover Edition
Old thread: >>1910389
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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What type of silicone did you use? Silicone caulk needs humidity to cure but if you mix it with the water prior to moulding it's gonna have a more squishy and less resistant consistency
Caulk guns can become completely solid through so if nothing works i'd just put it in a damp place and forget about it until it's solid
I tried that with silicone caulk, trust me you want the real stuff that shit will peel your dick off and it's super tough when it's cured (ie. not squishy so it won't stretch to accept your dick so you'd need to size it out and then it's no better than using your hand)
If you're doing complete manual calibration I'd do one round of the corners with a 1mm feeler gauge, then repeat with a 0.1mm feeler gauge. Going through all the points is too much, actually going through the four corners is too much since a proper plane is a defined by three points are you're overdefining (overadjusting) if you do more than that. But four is fine in most cases.
If you want to return to ABL a BLTouch is a much better sensor, but may require some work to hook it up. I don't like ABL since it means your Z-steppers are continuously moving, and therefore may be microstepping in between the golden numer for layer heights multiples (0.04mm on a Chiron) which may cause artifacting, or just plain worse print quality.
>At work I have to use SolidWorks. But it gives me headache.
How do you get a headache when you don't even have a brain? SW is easy enough.
>>print petg with 0.2mm nozzle, 0,08mm layer height
>>clogs up an hour in for the third time now
>maybe I should try pla next
Have you tried not going with a tiny nozzle and even smaller layer height? The flowrate is way too low, you really should have been expecting clogs. You might be able to pull it off if you disable cooling entirely.
What in the hell are you even printing that requires such a low resolution?

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