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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Thread Moving So Fast Nobody Will Notice I'm A Boat Edition
Old thread: >>1959679
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S

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jesus christ anon what in the holy hell is that thing?
A very convoluted dragon dildo that double-times as a fan duct
I recently got a CR-10 S5 and I'm having the hardest time trying to level the bed. I can't seem to get any space between the nozzle and the glass bed, even with the knobs tightened almost all the way. Has anybody had something similar with the CR-10 line?
>I guess the non lead screw side doesn't have to be properly tight?
See what works for you, anon. I left the non lead screw side loose and my gantry is constantly tilted now, but I have ABL that helps me compensate for this easily, although it's not mandatory.
The important thing is that when performing Z moves both sides of the gantry should move at the same time and over the same distance.
>Or are there any downsides to it being "loose"?
Probably increased wear on the brass nut on the lead screw, but I wouldn't worry about that too much since Z is the least moved axis. Even if that does wear out then you could probably find replacements on Ali for dirt cheap.

Do 40mm/s second at most. 245C hotend with no cooling to ensure good layer adhesion. Use a minimum layer time of 25s with lift head to give the layer cooling duct enough time to cool.
Move the Z endstop up a bit.

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"We can hear you but we're not listening" edition
Old Thread: >>1953329

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

The FAQ is now back:

>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable

>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?

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How bad is Guyana? Of all the hams around it, can none do DXPeditions?
Just recently got my Technician license. The single repeater I can actually hit is all but dead, and all the clubs nearby aren't meeting because of covid. I bought a shitty Baofeng UV-82 to talk to friends while backpacking and hunting, and that's been working so far. From what I've been reading, it seems like all the actually cool stuff like QRP operating JS8Call/FT8 is going to require me to upgrade to General in order to make full use of the HF band. Does /ham/ have any recommendations for what to do in the meantime?
Is that one repeater connected to Echolink?

Unfortunately not, Repeaterbook doesn't show any Echolink repeaters in my county.
You could make it a project, bringing that repeater into the Echolink network.
Seriously, would be good for you and the rest.

Plus - do Extra. You'll manage, and it's easy.

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hey /diy/, can anybody recommend software to emulate gears, racks, pinions, threaded rods, etc? I'm trying to design a hand crank lift system for a project and it'd be really nice to have some software to sort out this puzzle.

preferably a software that has a library of objects i could drag and drop in.
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another option and I'm sure one of the most accessable is the videogame Algodoo. I haven't tried it, but it looks like something fun to fuck around with
Most plastic gears for toy motors have whats called a squeeze fit. The gear hole is smaller than the shaft. When you squeeze it on, the force reaction from deflection should provide enough friction for grip.
aren't the labels swapped in this pic?
or have i always known them wrong?
I know right. OP's fucking with us.
Labels are swapped.

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I want to replace this kitchen faucet but literally every single faucet you can buy now has an attached handle or side handles that are all one piece.

Will it work fine if I just buy one with a handle on it and leave the handle fully "open", controlling the water with the existing handle? Sorry if this is a simple/stupid question but like most people I don't know anything about plumbing at all.
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those single handle faucets are fucking retarded. Try adjusting the temp without fucking up the pressure, or the other way around. Its impossible. My next house is going to have 3 valves on every water supply. hot,cold,and pressure.
Everyone other than you seems to be able to use them just fine evidenced by the fact that they are standard now....
you seem to not understand how faucets work.

they control volume not pressure.
" pressure " is a constant in this situation,
what you are referring to is "flow volume ".
I am somewhat confused as to what you are referring to ?
I see only one faucet
two spouts , one main and one auxiliary spray head.
and a hand soap dispenser .

if you are talking about the mixing valve why not just buy new o-rings for it
if it is leaking .

and have you even looked under the sink ? because what you are asking makes zero sense ,
because of hose connections , fittings and other obstacles to doing what you are asking in your post.
Just get a new faucet or rebuild that one. Your idea is retarded. I'm a plumber.

I need ideas on how to build out my van. I don’t know where to put this stupid fridge without it looking like shit. The more I look at the van the more I prefer it to just be completely empty
What are the fridge dimensions?

Just bought a house and the room where I would like to put the computers isn't grounded and I'd rather not have to destroy the wall to run grounding wire. Is there any kind of work around for this?
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Okay so what is the best thing to plug my computer int? gfci ungrounded, grounded plug, or a surge protector on an ungrounded outlet?
>gfci ungrounded
Have you not read a single post itt?
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Okay, bro, let me spell it out for you AGAIN. I'd put it in crayon if I could.

Ground: This is for people. Devices do not care about grounds. Grounds do not protect devices, they protect people.

GFCI: Again, they are for people. They provide even more protection then grounds, and even provide some protection if no ground is present, but do not protect devices.

Surge Protectors: As it says on the tin, they protect against power surges. They are full of consumable components that protect against spikes. They do not protect against brownouts or blackouts but are cheap. Since they are consumable, they do sometimes need to be replaced after a strong surge. Get one that has an indicator of whether it is still protecting your stuff. They do not protect people but do function without a ground or GFCI.

Battery Backup: These are what you want but also cost the most. They have surge protection and brownout/blackout protection. They don't require a ground or a GFCI but, again, they protect devices, not people.
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>What is a ground?
It is a path back to the breaker panel. It is similar to a neutral, and performs the same function, but is only ever used when there is a ground fault.

>So it goes to the grounding rod in the breaker panel?
No, it goes to the neutral in the breaker panel. The grounding rod is for lightning strikes that hit a power pole on your network.

>What is a ground fault?
It is when the wiring in a device fails and causes the case of the device to become live. The gound is only connected to the parts of a device that should never be live. It is a safety shortcut back to the breaker panel in case something goes wrong. The idea is the rogue power takes the shortcut instead of going through you and hurting/killing you.

>So it's a neutral?
No. You can't substitute a neutral for a ground. Neutrals have power following across them any time a device is in use. If you connect a neutral to a gound, congrats, you have just caused a ground fault and the case of your device is now live. Do not do that.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Tl;dr for the whole thread:

Gfci outlet, labeled "no ground" (or similar, the label will be in the box), with surge protector is what you need. That's all, and it will even be up to code.

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How can i make fake soil and grass for a little indoor fairy garden? Bonus points if its able to get wet alot without any problems.
Fuck off Belle

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Where can I get a crap ton of styrofoam for cheap? I'm suprised on how relatively expensive it is on amazon/ebay/etc, considering it comes with almost every package.
>considering it comes with almost every package.
There's your answer retard.
to elaborate look into packaging companies and speak directly to suppliers.
You're getting robbed if you buy raw materials off amazon.
ok anon I will go buy 1512515$ worth of crap just for the styrofoam.
If there is a local company that receives more than it sends (think of company’s that assemble things from components) offer to help recycle it.
The point went over your head

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Are there any good deals on 3D printers?
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That guide also says this:
>2020 Update – The prices for the Ender 3 and the Ender 3 Pro have gotten close enough in price that it’s really just a tossup. The board we recommend in part 4 is better than the one in the pro model but if you’d rather not spend the time to do the upgrades then you’re not going to miss anything. The V2 version is not so much better that its worth 100$ more than the basic unless things like a pretty display matter to you.

For $236 right now, I would suggest just getting the Ender 3 V2. I got mine at $259, and even at that price it made more sense to me to just buy the V2 that already had the upgrades (silent drivers, silicon carbide bed, thicker Y axis extrusion, MeanWell PSU, belt tensioners, etc.) included versus buying another model and the upgrades separately.
Buy Ender 3 Pro, SKR 1.4 turbo, BLTouch, Micro-Swiss hotend, replace the extruder with titan, swap all fans for noctua and replace PTFE for capricorn.
>buy chinkshit printer for 200
>slap on parts for 400
>you fucked up the setup
just get a prusa at this point
Yeah I can totally buy Prusa, but where is the fun in that?

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I have a 3 way light switch in my house that does not work properly. I can only turn it on from one of the switches, and sometimes it won't turn on at all unless I first flip the opposite switch, then go back and turn it on from the other one.

I know the light switches themselves are 3 ways because I bought and installed them myself. I hooked it up the same was as before, so it must have been wired wrong before as well.

Anyone know how to fix this, or do I just have to use trial and error to get the wiring right?

Thank you!
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I guess we should start with what colors you have on your switches also.

The other most common wiring method is called a dead-end 3-way. The hot cable, the switched cable, and traveller cable all in one box. The other box just has one cable going to the switch (dead-end).

The colors used varies with the installer. Some use red/white for travellers, some use black/red. The traveller colors on the gold screws should match (though not always) on the switches. Best to take a picture and post it if you have this style of 3-way.
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Thank you. This has already been helpful. Here are the two switches if helpful.
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So, I just need to swap the top and bottom wires on the right side of this diagram on one of the switches, and it should work properly? Thank you again for the help.
I can't really see whats going on inside the box in the first picture at that angle. Second picture definitely says it's a dead-end 3-way, but it's not wired the same as the diagram I posted earlier.

With what I can see, I would try swapping around the two black wires on switch #1 and see if that fixes it.

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What do to when energy is of no concern in other words it is "free". In my country it is illegal to sell energy back to the grid, I have a microhydro where I produce much more energy than I need, and this energy is going to waste.

I was thinking of mining for some shitcoin or something of the sort. Maybe I could run some sort of machinery as well. The pajeets at biz are retarded so asking there won't yield any results.

I have around 15kW to work with.

Figure out how to efficiently convert it into usable hydrocarbon fuels and sell that, instead.
If you think there would be local interest you could invest in building battery banks out of second hand LiPos and selling packs with the intention of recharging them at a less-than-mains rate.

Other than that, you could use it to automate a production task (chopping firewood or something) that would provide a marketable resource.
that is interesting anon, I didn't think of that, thank you.
Make hydrogen from water. Run water purification system that boils it off and collects it. Im sure that method of purification is good at using extra energy.
-pump water up to a water tower, increase pressure, or use to generate electricity.
- run an air compressor, compressed air can power tools
- heat a tank of water, if insulated it will stay hot for a while

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How do I build a garden shed out of scrap but NOT made out of wood?

I'm terrified of it getting wet and rotting away. Ideally I want to make it out of metal. I was thinking about using the metal from old pc towers
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I built a shed from FSB boards on europalettes as base. Painted outside. 3 years in and still standing.
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in china you can still buy paint that lasts 50 years.
Get an old car and bury it to where the trunk is the only thing sticking out of the ground.
Get a bunch of refrigerators and line them up front to back making a tunnel of sorts. Take the doors off and cut out the backs with a circle saw. Use a fine blade. The freon will cool the blade as you cut and you can easily cut 20-30 backs out without sharpening. Use the doors you removed from the other fridges to make a peaked roof that sheds water away from you shack. Use the shelves you removed to make a walkway to your food library fortress keeping your feet dry and the palace clean. Any questions?
Fibre cement over gal studs

Use a flat corrugated roof that slopes off one side and overhangs all sides. Use new O ring hex screws to screw into your purlins
Have a good overhang over your door side (high side) and face it away from your windier side

Elevate your pad above soil level so you dont get water intruding under your bottom plate

Paint the fibre cement after you fill gaps with caulk

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I want to start producing steel automobile/bike parts.
Do you guys have any recommendations for CNC machines?
I was thinking about https://www.solidsmack.com/fabrication/this-desktop-cnc-machine-gets-you-milling-for-under-500/
That thing won't cut Steel well. Better off spending a few thousand on a manual mill
Even tormach and haas mills are barely adequate for steel according to most people
That’s complete BS. OP, your best bet will be a tormach if you’re trying to keep prices low. I’ve searched long and hard, and there’s really nothing cheaper that can handle even aluminum with decent tolerances.
Depends on what accuracy and repeatability u want. Most do light aluminum but it's not common to see 1um accuracy and repeatability. For most stuff 1 thou is enough

Post a tool you don't need, but you want it anyway
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Getting a 1 ton for Christmas. Fucking stoked.
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Damn this thing is a beast
Nice. Go label every wire now.

I did a thing. This Lenox is ridiculous.
They’re both 10”, the Irwin is 8”.
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>Ywn drill a hole through the great wall of Ba Sing Se first
>Ywn get azula as a gift from the fire lord for capturing THE most besought target in the earth kingdom
:( sad lad hours

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