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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Thread sharded smoke:>>2251882

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

>Don't ask, roll:

>Archive of Popular Electronics magazines (1954-2003):

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where do you get microdisplays? the jews at kopin don't sell them openly.
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i ventured into the unknown and shorted every pin to ground one by one.
shorting ant did nothing, however shorting "mpx out" or "afs" cut the received sound and let only the bootleg audio source make noise.

afs gives a better result than mpx (no crackling at the moment of shorting, instant cut of audio,) with a datasheet from a radio module(TDA7540NTR) saying it automatically mutes the module (when 0.6<V<0.8) for something. see pic
grounding afs seems to produce the same result though.
would it be better to drop the voltage (from 3V) to ~0.6V instead of 0V? i myself dont see why it would be necessary, but to protect my already damaged brain i want to keep future potential headaches to a minimum.

So i am open to any wisdoms of /ohm/
because protons are locked into a lattice
Protons are bound into the nucleus, and in solids the nucleus can't move. In ionic solutions and gases, current is carried by the movement of electrons and of positively-charged ions (i.e. an atom with some electrons removed). Even then, most of the current is carried by electrons because ions are much heavier than electrons so they don't move as fast.
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>never used hot air station before
>never desoldered smd
I have a broken daughterboard for android phone, I want to remove the mic without damaging anything
Is my set up the right way to do it?
kapton tape/foil off all surrounding components?
Circle heat around on the mic and tweezer it up?
I also have syringe of amtech tacky flux, would this job require a squirt? or nah?

I like the color
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I won't buy a tool just because I like the colour, but I'll avoid buying a tool because I hate the colour.

Ryobi would sell so much more if it wasn't vile neon piss colour
Holy based
Old AEG tools were black and some dark blue.
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I've been using battery makita shit for a decade and I've only burned out two tools (one of which I was doing dumb shit)
>be contractor
>warehouse has some aircraft skin that they're rejecting and want cut up
>cut it up with 6 1/2 circular saw (may have been to lazy to get a proper cutting blade)
>saw is kill and smoking by the time I'm through cutting all of it up
>remodeling a basement in a mansion
>working 10-14hrs/day for a week
>screwgun (3-4 years old at this point) begins to get extremely hot whenever I drive a screw

I've been very happy with my makita tools so far, I haven't had any issue that makes me want to switch brands at this point

I'm rolling Makita now (drill, driver, recip, rattle gun, circular caw, sander) but wish I went DeWalt because the flexvolt stuff looks good.

II hink between the major brands it's close enough that it doesn't matter any ways. Maybe an edge to Milwaukee if one of the extended tool range tools applies to your work.

What would be the best way to build an illegal dwelling in a national forest? How would you do it?


1. Must be underground
2. Must be practical. You'll be transporting all material and doing all work in a remote part of the forest.
3. The dwelling must remain hidden
4. The dwelling must be suitable for living during summer and winter

You can use whatever tools and materials you want, given that you want.
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means Synthetic Aperture RADAR for those mot aware
they simply compare images taken over a perios of time
your excavation will change the heigh of the ground at the millimeter scale or more -- which it can pick up
personally, though, I'd be more concerned about the rangers
you may think "big forest, I'll never see one" but they know their forest really, really well and get around to most of it
>The biggest issue is remain hidden because you have to get out to get grocery at some point
Absolutely false.

…. The cave provides.
Who gives a shit about the environment
Oh not this cave bullshit again. Quit trying to make the cave provides meme happen. it's not going to happen.
Honest question, how do people who live innawoods not go crazy from boredom? I understand nature is tranquil and shiet but after a day or two of that I would be bored out of my mind and craving my computer

>inb4 short attention zoomer

Anyone ever make their own, and have tips? What's the least expensive way to seal it?
Never done an odr before anon. Seal what? Ice looks good
>least expensive way
Some dirt you dig up to support some plastic sheets
That costs money.
Build a wall out of snow (or just dirt) and spray it with water to seal it up.
Add water slowly overnight and it will freeze before it has a chance to go anywhere.
Snow is best because you have nothing to clean up afterwards.

For someone with nearly 0 technical skills. Is HVAC a good place to put my soul into? I have a master's degree in a meme subject (sport management) and can't find a job aside from a stocker at walmart and I have no real skills. I am 27 years old and fear having no skills with fuck me forever, so I wanted to try and learn a trade. I'm too stupid to do math so electric is off limits mostly. I was thinking HVAC because they will always have jobs no? I live in Florida currently. Everyone needs AC. And if I move up north, people need heat too. How should I go about getting into HVAC? Not sure i want to go to school again only to graduate with the same response from employers which is, "that's great to did school and all, but we prefer experience" and I'll be in the same exact spot after school is over on 3-4 years or however long it takes. Any suggestions? Trying to better myself and have some slight hope for a future that isn't stricken with poverty. (I'm debt free currently and living with my mom) so really brainstorming. HVAC seems the most interesting because health and air seems kinda fun and cool. Idk if I'd have to do a lot of other shit but those are what sound good
>always have jobs
Everything always have jobs, just a matter of getting to them

HVAC will involve electrics and other things so you need maths just like any other, however, also like many other, it is basic level maths, not complicated to pick up

Sure but so is lighting, or gardening, it depends on your personal preference

>put soul into
Don't be dramatic

You'll need to have a basic understanding of diagnosing mechanical and electrical, or go to trade school. Computer science is a bonus if you go commercial HVAC. Controls work pays well and it makes you a more desireable hire. If you aren't willing to exchange physical labor for $$$, don't bother going this route. Attics and rooftops are hot in the summer, but the pay is well worth it if you have the motivation. I worked in IT support for 6 years, then went into automotive for 10. Switched to commercial/industrical HVAC and making a stupid amount as a controls tech. I was moved from maintenance to service calls after 6 months, but I'm mechanically inclined and picked up reading wiring schematics fast. If you decide to go this route, absorb everything this guy has to offer - https://hvacrschool.com/podcast/

He is a valuable resource. If you don't care about electrical like you mentioned, go into Plumbing. It's not all shit running downhill. Natural gas, condensate, and other pipe fittings are part of the trade, and they make a good amount as well.
You will actually consider suicide halfway through your first week of tinwork.

What are the most cost-effective construction methods to research and consider for building a 75' (23m) habitable structure that will stand safely for at least 500 years in the absence of structural maintenance? What aesthetic considerations should be made before blighting the earth with such a durable structure?

The structure will be on flat wooded acreage in western Pennsylvania, USA, with construction beginning within the next three years at the earliest. Ideally, it would be designed in such a way as to permit the building of one story at a time, as funding is available, but I can put off the project for several more years if it makes better financial sense to do so. Initial usage will be roughly equivalent to a hunting cabin and over-built hunting blind, eventual usage will be as a residential home. Natural lighting is important.

I anticipate eventually assembling some kind of knowledge archive on the site, so any ideas on that front would be appreciated, as well.
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Roman concrete
Based fred
Breaking up a driveway and tearing down the Fuhrer's towers are two different things
I don't know how they do it but fibreglass rebar is used in a lot of civil engineering projects, especially bridges and such.
Those AA towers will last a couple thousand years at least

Let's say I have access to as much sawdust as I wanted for free. How can I turn it into a hard form, (log, blocks, etc), that can be burned as fuel in a woodstove or backyard fire pit?

Obviously, I'd need some type of binder that would dry hard, and burn clean, right? Mix, pack it in a form, let it harden, burn it.
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Has the right idea.

Turn it into pellets or similar. This has been a solved problem for decades.

That wouldn't fit in the camper.

Then get one of the smaller ones that would.
Mix it into mulch or toss it into a compost. (Given that's there's no previous chemicals on it)

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Is it safe to sleep next to these with the heat running on all night?
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Just sliding a thot thread, don’t mind me.
Not freeze to death. Run out of oxygen. They think they'll suffocate. Retards.

It uses a reversing valve to change refrigerant flow. It's fine unless it has a leak. Even if it does, there isn't enough refrigerant to harm you unless you're huffing it directly off the pipe.

It's either placebo or dust on the coils. Get laid and get to sleep FFS.

I want my room to glow orange
Can anyway point me in the right direction?
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Just get some RGB lights
lots of candles like you are a cultist
I've always been a fan of the orange lights. LED is getting put up every where near me. Oh well.
is that the Disneyland parking structure?
Anon.. The car on the left is definitely black.

Just wondering what kind of tech a civvie has to develop to have even a slight chance to fight off stuff like this
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The best technology is not living in an urban hellhole. If you can't fight you leave. That's all you can do.
Shooting paint onto the cameras?
After detonating it in an air fuel explosion? I have a hard time believing an Abrams would be vulnerable to just a single dire but you could be a tank driver for all I know.
Like anything else, weak points:
-cameras can be disabled by strong lights
-wifi or radio signals can be jammed if you can detect the frequencies in-action
-mechanical joints can be glued or broken
-stupidity can be exploited with fake decoys or traps etc

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I'm paranoid asf and can't afford a real one the actual functionally useful ones are very expensive. Preferably not like poc related.
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>DIY case hardening anything bigger then a knife or sword is almost guaranteed to fail
Oh really, is there a reason for that? Does it get brittle and shatter? I was thinking of making 2-4" squares as opposed to a full breastplate.
>scrap from earth-working equipment tooling, like excavator buckets
That's a better idea, though I wonder how thick the flat bits would be.
This, OP. Don't be a moron - you are expecting this to save your life. Spend the $265
Just get some normal fucking strike plates, you'll probably have to spend more fabricating your own than if you just purchase one, see >>2259763. III+ or IV preferable but the weaker IIIs can still deal with handgun calibers if that's all you're worried about.
I get that this is /diy/ but if cost and reliability in body armor are actually a concern to you, a pair of strike plates from a reliable manufacturer is probably what you actually want.
this right here. you get some high grade ceramic tiles and glue them to a steel plate and you can defeat most handgun ammo. any rifle round is gonna BTFO you but you'll be safe-ish against some random nigger with a Hi-Point.

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>when you find that really good deal on a tool you didn't think you needed or didn't need but the price is too good to pass
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>when you're severely retarded
No that was clearance at a local farm store. I forgot it was black friday actually.
She is going to fuck Iruma's brains out and give Sullivan a great grandkid one day
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I miss this little nigga.

Okay, wtf is this? The end is threaded and both clearly and readily screws off. I have the old "classic" non-self igniting one and need a similarly narrow and directed flame. But it doesn't fit on the ts8000 and I can't find different ends for sale anywhere.

Why. I'm working in an enclosed space doing plumbing, I don't need a wide flame blasting everything.
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it don't werk like that bruh
Want to up your game?

The based torches for plumbing are Asco, Goss, Uniweld, TurboTorch etc with hoses and multiple tips. (Cheapest way to wallow in torches is buy used with a bit of study. I collect, overhaul and use a wide variety.) Aiming torches screwed to LP cylinders annoys me greatly.

The designs are ancient with expired patents so parts and regulators and regulator overhaul kits are plentiful.

I'd not buy new at retail prices unless you have work to do immediately (then visit your local welding supply for anal raep). Read about tip sizes and styles so you get the right tips (screw or QD) for a given torch body. It's worth it.

LP and acetylene differ so get the right torch. (I have both and prefer acetylene but LP runs off a BBQ tank if ya don't like paying for the expensive baby cylinders to get pennies worth of LP.)

Classic LP TurboTorch (not mine) with smallish tips at a reasonable Egay price. Check Fecesbook Marketplace too. I buy all my torches used. Viton O-rings are cheap if needed.

Classic Asco torches. Less known but plentiful and excellent. I've a couple of sets.

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>I don't need a wide flame blasting everything.
the knob on the back controls flame size you tard

>but I still prefer the more narrow "beam" I'm used to
then buy a TS4000 or some other torch, you literally bought their high powered model and are complaining it does what it is marketed to do
>the knob on the back controls flame size you tard
No, it controls the rate of heating. At very low levels it kind of narrows the flame, but is nowhere near where it could melt solder. After that the flame size is basically the same.

>you literally bought their high powered model and are complaining it does what it is marketed to do
The flame character is all about the tip. The tip screws off. I'm not sure what your issue is here. I will admit that your post was annoyingly aggressive though, so there you go I guess.

I got an adapter to refill the small cylinders, haven't really tried it yet. Also have a hose so the cylinder isn't in the way.

Appreciate the feedback. These are the things I wish I knew.
His dad probably got chucked navy a plumber and broke up his home.

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Very Long Fred edition

Previous thread not audible during daytime: >>2233343

Thread hymn: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gd43b_ZcuU

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

The FAQ is now back:
>The wiki is down but is archived: https://archive.is/PjR5s

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What are your ham goals? Test shouldn't be hard, it's more or less the same test for first world countries.
forget amateur
what does it take to get a legit radio station going
I guess you could join MARS, and buy only Harris and Motorola radios.
>bug out bag
Now this brings up some questions that I wonder if /HAM/ can answer. How do we set up a BOB with our emcomm gear? Do we use a HT or go with a smaller mobile radio? If smaller mobile, what about batteries? What about the antenna? Make a wire dipole and weave it into somewhere on the bag? Or just get a standard whip antenna?
Lots of money, as people buy up the rights to a frequency on both the FM and AM bands quickly when they come up for auction.

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