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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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How the fuck do I get rid of mildew on my bath tub?
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Can't believe this hasn't been suggested yet, but the only thing that will work is a mixture of bleach and ammonia. Obvious
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It would literally take less than 5 minutes with this.
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Mixing Vinegar with Hydrogen Peroxide produces a Chemical equilibrium between Hydrogen Peroxide, Acetic acid (Vinegar), water and Peracetic acid. This needs some time. This means our cleaning Solution has all of this chemicals inside.
The hydrogen peroxide
>very strong against bacteria and fungus
>has a bleaching effect on "dirty plastic, wood..."
Peracetic acid
>everything that hydrogen Peroxide do, but a few times stronger
>its highly Antimicrobial, kills spores, bad smells and everything with "live"
>produces a gas that reach the corners and kills everything
Both chemicals oxidize the bacteria..., its like burning them without fire.
Closing the door gives it enouth time to produce a highly concentration of Peracetic acid and doing the job

This fucking chemical is used for :
Should work better than every chemical you can buy
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The best way to get rid of this mess is to tear it all out and start over.

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I've had a bunch of these drill bits for a long time the only ever use the light bronze colored ones. What are the other 3 types for?
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I need to stick a metal bit back to some glass the original glue seems to to have dried/worn out and it fell off. What would be the best method of putting the two back together?
I dont have to say it. You think a bunch of fucking students dont have a bluetooth speaker? You think they dont know what they are or how to use them?

Im sorry, I figured I was talking to a student, not a 90 year old woman.
>What is a boom-box
c'mon guys 2006 wasn't THAT long ago.
2-step epoxy or JB weld (?)
i needed to drill some rivets out in my case, and being easter only walmart was open
i bought the $19 hyper tough drill since it was the cheapest

how badly did i do? i feel like i don't use a drill often to warrant more spending, and if this does break i'll buy a better one

Would it be cost efficient and with some cad knowledge easy to build a 3d printer from scratch? (without using a 3d printer)
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>lead screw with a "1/2" diameter be sturdy enough

Kind of irrelevant for a 3D printer. No weight and no forces at all. Half inch could handle several hundred kg. The only problem with tiny leadscrews would be vibration if you use small screws with high rpm. I used a printer (~500mm) today with 4mm screws because it's older than the chinesium 8mm standard screws. Use whatever you can get for the least amount of money. Big screws add a lot of intertia which limits your acceleration unless you use bigger motors.

Thanks, finally I can continue with by build

Oh yeah what do you guys think of these:

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Buy a ender 3
To me that seems like a good price, and they're rolled rather than ground so the surface is durable and should last. G2 to my understanding is not that precise but it has still reached that basic level of quality, which relative to a screw that hasn't anything is incredibly good, I tend to buy ballscrews and they have a different system. It's probably better than you need, and with its longevity should be usable in another project if you ever want to replace/upgrade it. The next thing is to consider the pitch, I don't want to work out the imperial to metric crap so general advice is to consider what your motor is rated for in terms of torque and rpm and what that means for linear movement and velocity for your lead screw, and what sort of forces that will put on whatever you have connected to it. The pitch is like a pay off between accuracy and speed a bit like a gearing or similar. It depends how your set up, I'd say with a stepper motor it may pay to err on the side of speed as it's fairly straightforward if pricey to put in a better controller with more microsteps or a motor with more steps/rev, and with bldcs to err on the side of accuracy as it's fairly straightforward to put in more exotic cooling solutions which in turn improves how hard you can push the motors.

More general advice: put a bellows/covering over the top of any exposed screws, it's good safety precaution shit, easy to make one. If you go the bldc route check out some of what the ebike people do, they have come up with some interesting cooling techniques.

I'm was thinking about turning this attic at my grandma's house into my own little apartment how hard would that be given the pictures, what would I have to start with
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Now that may sound like a lot of money, but for what you get out of it it really isn't. From the sound of it, your dad is going to help with money/labor as well.

I'd say go for it, anon. You'll learn a lot and you'll get a nice living space out of it.

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I mean, It may be hard to get large furniture up their through the stairwell. You might wanna include a picture of that. If you were to move in right away, It would be alright i think, But the heat may be unbearable in the summer. maybe dont try to bring an entire bedstand up there, just lay a matress on the floor. bugs may be a concern.

>op is pic related
>insulating between the rafters
ice dams
Yes, mainly it would require to add some windows since a living space has to have a required minimum of windows per sqm.
You don't need a permit to put in a roof window tho. lt's all regional dependent as well, a lot of places, you don't need permission to renovate an attic either, unless you going full Dresden on existing layout

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>Sticks to the plate no matter what you do
>Hard as fuck to establish an arc
>Need to keep at a 90 degree angle or you fuck it up
>shitty push n' whip technique
>Can't be broken off
>Lights itself on fire if you have it on the plate for literally 1 second after it sticks
>People will die arguing that its superior to 6013

Meanwhile with 6013
>Loves you
>Doesnt want to see you get hurt
>wont burn itself being a shit tier rod
>literally offers the exact same benefits as 6010
>very beginner friendly
>can strike an arc from 20 feet away

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TIG is a fucking meme anyways
>barely used outside of specific industries
>most of those industries automate TIG anyways
>is only used on pure metals
Sure TIG pays a lot, but at the end of the day, TIG pays less then pipelining.
lack of fusion and travel speed too fast
it just seems fun really. but i rarely work with thin metals and almost never touch aluminum so it's simply not worth the investment no matter how badly i want to give it a try
t. pipeline scrub with no hand skills
Fix your undercut and trapped slag

It's me motherfuckers! did you missed me? of course not!

Thread hymn.


Last thread:

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
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Not sure if this is the place to ask, but here goes. I bought a set of cheap calipers two years ago (pic related) through school, but everyone has this specific set and mine got borrowed permanently by god knows who. I'm about to graduate so I can afford a set of calipers that can last me a lifetime, what would you recommend? Needs to be:
>150mm (6'')
>Accurate up to 0.05mm (2 thou)
Basically needs to do what my old one did. Bonus points for:
>Second imperial scale
>Mauser-style thumb clamp
>Cheater chart on the back
Those are digital.
metric/imperial selectable too
just get a dial caliper from starret, mitutoyo, or brown and sharpe

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Tell me bros, how do I turn this bar of rusted steel into a sword
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was meant for:

The wannabe Tim Taylors are why I love /diy/. You've got your usual helpful threads, and as a bonus you get dumb motherfuckers who want to do stupid shit to feel smarter, like putting truck wheels on a diesel locomotive.
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>like putting truck wheels on a diesel locomotive.
Oh, never thought of trying that.
>Searches CL for used locomotive
>Notable Commanders and Leaders
>Jackie Chan (holding an infant in a ladder factory
Why'd he have to be a casualty? He didn't want no trouble
How do I haberdash a fedora?

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A Cat Is Fine Too Edition

Old thread: >>1591345

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

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MK3S don't use springs wtf
I guess everyone missed that and thought you had an Ender 3.
I'm definitely not saying it isn't functional. Any further improvements would be icing on the cake if the current part already functions. I was commenting more on the grittiness of the layers. Generally petg, when at its ideal temp, will shimmer/shine a bit and be super smooth. You seem to have pockets and zits which could be from a number of issues. A temp tower with 3-5 degree increments would be a good test to nail down proper flow. That should also eliminate alot of that corner crud, which is usually caused by petg resistance to direction change due to its elasticity. The more fluid it is, the less the nozzle will pull it off track, and it has the added benefit of improving layer adhesion.

But by all means, if your cool with a bit of clean up and the part works as is, dont let me dissuade you from carrying on.
Yeah, that's my bad. Didn't realize you use a MK3.
i'm trying to find a vertical mount for my 19" flatrons but the only thing i can find is too big for my ender 3. would it be possible to print these in parts and try to plastic weld together with a dremel, try to find someone else who can print it, or just suck it up and buy an actual stand?

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>tfw you forget to plug in your brake pads
I want to personally thank the engineers that decided electronic brake wear indicators were a good idea.
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If you got a lawyer to fight it.
No wear sensors on the disc though
TPMS is actually pretty nice when you have low profile tires, it can be hard to tell when they're 5-10lbs down with a visual inspection only.
Guessing you watched the SMA video too, huh?
Yeah lmao

Lets say that I have about 100 meters of a small old creek running through my property like pic related, lets say I can clearly see gold flakes glistening in the sun clearly, some 2mm wide
How could I start panning for gold? Do I start from the end of the creek, or the beginning? Do I dig deep? I don’t intend to make a lot of money, just want to see what can become of it
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finds gold in mud
no other minerals to be found
fuck off faggot
not a creek more like an irrigation ditch some larp shits in
The stuff you see glistening in the sun is probably not gold, don't get your hopes up.
Just pick a few spots that looks like where dense flakes might settle like a bend in the creek, shovel into the pan, see if anything shows up.
I did this not even having to dig a foot down and I found about 2 or 3 flakes of possible gold and a grain of reddish translucent crystal
bottom up, that way you're not dumping gravel on top of what you're running. Also just build a little wooden sluice box, and go to town.

Meh, a placer claim is only @ $50, assuming he's actually seeing something a couple grams of panning will pay for that.

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the old thread has reached the bump limit: >>1591072

0. Electrics ≠ electronics. Home appliances/sparkies to /qtddtot/ or /sqt/. PC assembly to >>>/g/.
1. Do your own homework. Search web first. Re-read all documentation/datasheets related to your components/circuits. THEN ask.
2. Pics > 1000 words. Post relevant schematic/picture/sketch/9001.5 hours in MS Paint with all part numbers/values/etc. when asking for help. Focus/lighting counts.
3. Read posts fully. Solve more problems than you create.
4. /ohm/ is an anonymous, non-smoking general.

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements. Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat

>Project ideas:

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>the practical trick with treating an forward biased LED as a voltage source in reverse?

maybe that works for you, and I see the logic, but to me that's a horrible concept to suggest to anyone learning about electronics. Either assume the diode has the nominal voltage drop as a rough estimate, or use the V-I curve if you really need to, but to think of it as a SOURCE seems wrong-headed, since it is not a source in any way.

Please explain what I'm missing, and how this "trick" is practical.
>is actually really complex?

Yes, especially since the voltage-current characteristic that is published is just a representative value and is not exact. The real question is, why are you concerned about this? Design your circuit so that the LED is always bright enough to do whatever it is supposed to do, and avoid excessive current, and this does not have to be complex unless your source voltage is terribly unregulated. If you have a regulated voltage source then pick a resistor that gives you a safe LED current and forget about it.
Diode IV relationship is exponential and also depends on temperature. Because of those two reasons, accurately calculating current of a series LED-resistor is more complicated than just using (Vsupply - Vforward) / resistance = current.
So yes calculating it accurately is more difficult but there's damn near no point because you're not going to be compensating for temperature anyway.
So i take a copper pcb, a page from a magazine, stuff it into a laser printer, i have one so that is nice, and then put it on the pcb and iron it? that is it? the give it a nice little fecl3 bath and i have a finished pcb?
Feb 2017 2700pf ±5%
you can find that, you really can

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I'm going to be looking at houses next week to buy and I'm wondering what are some tell tale signs of things to avoid?
What are some horror stories you have from home buying?
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I will be moving in permanently within the next 2 months. It's just I've never bought a home in this type of condition. I'm unsure on how common their these type diy repairs are.
>Over the last 5 years my investments have netted an average annual yeild of ~6.4%
so you're breaking even with the inflation rate
might as well just buy gold and bury it in your yard
>average annual yeild of ~6.4%
that's not great
Looks good to me, I'd move in. check timber for rot and woodworm. it looks shitty but that might just be the paint.
roof doesn't look bad to me. get your roof in order first if it's fucked. leaking roofs are the death of most houses that are otherwise very ok.
You should definitely get advice from someone that knows the ropes with those houses. If you read German look at Konrad Fischer: "Altbauten kostengünstig sanieren". Generally, most things can be saved. It is all a matter of money.

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Has anyone here ever refined oil at home? Or developed a small refinery for personal use?

it would seem pretty useful for preppers and when SHTF
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Just learn to build a wood gas vehicle, its actually very simple. Pic very related
>methane production
Do the BRAP Barns really exist?
Someone hasn't seen Mad Max 3!
But yeah, I've read about them too; they use an inflatable balloon that fills up, which is also understandably incredibly dangerous, so it can be illegal in some places.
Does the fire generate the 1.21 jiggawatt needed for time travel?

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How hard is it to DIY hardwood flooring properly? Should I just pay someone to do it? I need about 1000-1500 sq ft done.
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Is doing an exotic hardwood like brazilian walnut worth while? Is it a lot harder to install? Will it increaseproperty value more than a cheaper hardwood?
Don't worry about your (((property value))), do what you want in terms of looking good vs. cost where you are comfortable with the trade. Trends go in and out so your "upgrade" might work against you by the time you decide to sell. Look at any picture of a nice house from the 90's and tell me what you think.
Property-value upgrades should be performed within 6 months of actually selling your house, and typically you should focus on kitchen/appliance/bathroom refreshes.
Yeah, some of the easiest things to do is painting, changing the fronts on kitchen cupboards.
I'm planning on moving out of this house in a couple years. I got it as a foreclosure.
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>Floor guy here
I'm sure a homeowner could do his own install. But how much time will it take him? Will he be able to floor the main level with out having any transitions? Will the homeowner be able to make sure the flooring is squared with the home? Meaning will the the joints in the wood line up with walls, and cabinets?
A guy such as myself, could put your floor in with base, and or shoe molding in 4 days. If I had another guy to help, I could ccut that down to 3 days.
Hope this info helps anon.

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