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Previous thread:>>2440483

Here we discuss microcontrollers, SBCs and microcontroller accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, Raspberry Pi, Pi Picos, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)

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>Soldering microcontrollers is hard and not ideal for a starting lesson.
There literally isn't a better starting point than soldering a few pin headers. Every single through hole component will have pads of this size and there's just no way to get anything bigger.
Use flux and reheat the pins that have spikes on them to get rid of the spikes. Adding a tiny bit of fresh solder also helps to get rid of those.
I want to build a streaming server using a USB DAC I already have, but raspberry pi prices are ridiculous. what is the best supported board out of banana Pi, Mango Pi, NanoPi?
Looks like a bit too much solder, and you didn't heat it for long enough. The flux should bubble for a moment or two to activate surface tension. You want the solder to wick INTO the joint, not blobbing all around it.
Also heat the joint, not the solder. that makes sure you got it hot enough. Try to push the soldering iron up against both the pin and the pad, and then push the solder onto the opposite side.
I agree there's too much solder. I can try again this is more of inline with the critism I was looking for / expecting.
I ordered a Mango Pi MQ Pro D1 board

Besides from the fun of it, is melting cans cost effective? From buying the cans out of hobos or collecting them yourself, to the energy cost of melting them, and the ratio you get from the pounds of cans you melt to the pounds of actual aluminum you cast without mentioning the ROI of the gear required, is it worth the time and effort to make lingots and sell them too keep doing it ?
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You are not pouring ingots that are good enough to machine at home. You're fucking clueless, stop posting.
>The only reason to melt and cast that makes sense is if your casting to get a shape (say an model aircraft engine crankcase or similar) then finish machining to complete the part.
Melted cans don't mold well. At best they're good for useless shit, like pouring down an ant hill. People who cast in aluminum can get better alloys and purities for casting as cheap as shitty melted cans.
Melted can ingots are basically useless.
>Thanks, OP here, I'm just wondering if it's cost effective so it can pay for itself at least,

Recyclers are able to pay a premium for cans over other aluminum because the aluminum can industry subsidizes recycling of them.
Once you melt them, they are no longer a can and lose the subsidy value.
Recycle the cans and use the money to buy something better suited for your /diy/ projects/
>is melting cans cost effective
>is it worth the time and effort to make lingots
>sell them
no one will but them
if your intent is bulk sale to recycler, crush or shred
>what kind of a retard would use cast aluminum for machining parts?

One of the smartest machinists on youtube does it.



If I want to store 10-20 kilowatts or more excess energy, what would be the best way of doing so?

Easiest one would be a huge-ass plumbum-sulphuric acid battery like in a car but the size of a small room. A bit unconventional, but costs a thousand bucks instead of 20.000 when you buy LiFePo-shit for something like solar panels.

What else? Is pumping water up somewhere worth the effort?
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>allowing feds to halt your battery room dreams
cucked, unbased and ngmi
Pumping water up? Maybe

Consider what happens in an enclosed metallic vessal with piping from bottom to top, filled with a quality polyethylene glycol mixture. Use certain fibers through the piping to promote climbing action.

Consider arranging the unit so as the piping/reservoir could sit in the sun to warm. The other side in shade or underground.

The metallic reservoir shoul ba square or rectangle etc. Because what you do is time the temperature difference with pressure, then divide the pie. Consult your grandmother before pulling the sides outward and tieing it off tight around my balls, creating a long hydraulic suck off the tip of my cock.

Consider the reservoir sides being concaved and pulled, that whip like snap off the cheek of an ass.

Thermal mechanical everflowing gravity pump machine utilizing fluid that flows together as if linked by a chain. Electric recovery with dynamo.

Store that energy in lithium ion AND consider building or buying a magnetic floating vacuumized flywheel battery. NASA gas some nice ones. Also amber kinetics.

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How much energy can be stored as air pressure let's say I collect 50 expired liquid propane tanks and put them in parallel.
1500L @ 300psi = recoverable watts?

Terrible example. "Cya in 5m" and it turned out 5 months rather than 5 mins would be better, but then after 15mins you would call again. Or maybe if you had a good relationship with your dad, you would have understood how he regularly misinterprets simple information, and would need to clarify. Like how he showed his patience and love while you took your time growing up and taking his every word literal...unless you never had that and feel the need to ridicule and belittle. Hope things work out for you kid.
i know in germany they have stirling generators specifically made to be mounted to a central heating system

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What is the best rubber cement/putty that will stick for years even when upside down or on a side wall?

I'm trying to stick a hard drive cage into an obscure non-AT case and with no 3D printing, sadism will have to be the best option
3m double sided tape
Any epoxy or construction adhesive will work.
Are there ones that can be easily removable once adhesion has completed? This cage will be sticking to a plastic tray, so if the cage ever gets removed I don't want to ruin the plastic.

"Easily removable" and "needs to stick even when upside down or on the side" sound like an oxymoron but I need the closest tradeoff
Double sided tape for mirrors my dude, it's strong, will hang forever, but very easily removable once you want it gone

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Anyone have a resin 3d printer? Why is my print hanging off the build plate?
fyi, there's a dedicated thread for 3d printers. check the index for it.
checking now. ty
because you didn't use sprues
resin printing hates parallel flat surfaces because of the suction force that forms between the flat part of the part and the FEP film

orient the part so there is a corner pointed at the build plate and use sprues
it realized its design is so awful that it chose to end itself before it could begin

Anyone know any books I can read to figure out how to build a semi submersible catamaran submarine? I want it to have underwater viewing area with enough room for a bathroom and king sized bed and a couch and tv. Gonna hook up star link to it so I play play video games etc. I want to power it with ocean current via turbines or a jet engine apu to charge to battery.
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yeah right just look for underwater burial books, so you can save up a lot of steps and go directly to the results
Another day, another moron.
You want a bunker dude.
I know one guy who actually did this but he's in jail now
>star link
won't be able to compensate for wave action

I bought some of this stuff and some 0000 steel wool and it seems to work effectively for cleaning the hard water stains off my shower door. However it runs down the side and collects near the bottom where it cleans most effectively. Ideally it would stick uniformly on the window. Can I mix it with lotion or some other thickener or will I die from a chemical reaction? Also if anyone has some better ideas I’m all ears.
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I’ll try that. I’ve used clr a lot I’ve never seen it do anything like that it sounds cool.

I didn’t know thanks
Vinegar d00d.
fr fr anything else is cap and sus
On God x2 schomie no bussin fsfs
>shower door
remove it
lay it flat


My sister just bought an open-box reverse osmosis at an auction. It's brand new, but it's not in its original box. It's got one installation instruction paper and no other paperwork.

I'm sure I installed it correctly, but when I turned on the water to it, it's making noise. It's draining water into the P trap where I installed the saddle connection. I'm not sure if this is normal or not as there's no instructions that came with it other than the installation card.

is anyone here familiar with Reverse Osmosis installation? I took video of it and I posted it above. you can hear the trickling noise.
You installed it backwards and it's doing forward osmosis
Reverse osmosis machines drop like 2 gallons of water for every 1 gallon of water they put in the storage tank.

They're gonna make them illegal too like they are in India.

The worse your water gets. The more you need one, and the less you can afford to run one because the water is too expensive
It literally doesn't matter, but I've used yellow for the waste water. Pee and all.
>Reverse osmosis machines drop like 2 gallons of water for every 1 gallon of water they put in the storage tank.
This. If the noise bothers you, feed more tube into the drain hole so it works its way down to and possibly submurges in the trap.
If you're wondering how the tank works: it's a balloon suspended in a sealed pressure vessel. It was sealed at ATM. Your eater pressure will fill the balloon increasing the air pressure in the space around it. Once they equalize, it will be "full" and the unit will stop producing.
if it tastes bad like rubber/oil the tank is defective
just mentioning this because a huge percentage of them are
>if it tastes bad like rubber/oil
His system has a tank exit filter, I.e. that little top one on the stack. 3->RE->tank->1 is a very popular these days

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can this be done to split a circuit and send it two directions or do i need to make it run linear?
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>The breaker will trip

JFC dude you're still missing the point. It's getting impressive at this point.





You made up a problem in your head that isn't relevant. The numbers do matter.

The circuit is probably 20a. Maybe it is 15. The light he is adding is maybe .5a because it's 2022 and everything is LED.

He is not plugging in 2x1200 watt or 1500watt incandescent bulb because what the fuck is that for. You'll have the police there for an illegal grow operation.

He's not even going to run a 1500w toaster oven or vacuum on the plug 24/7. Maybe he'll run a 600w server on it. And that would be fine.
Let me know how many 10a loads you got in your breaker box bro.
You don't design circuits by thinking about loads like that.

If you got two 10a loads you need a 25a circuit. The breaker is 25a. The first wire is 25a, and both of the legs that come off are 25a. You don't ever downsize your wire because then the breaker won't stop that wire from catching fire. You need a 25a breaker to handle 2x10a.

I don't know what the fuck you're thinking about. Are you an EE and trying to design a house like a circuit board? Everything is derwted and safe as fuck man, you just sound retarded
But he's right, you just made up a 10 amp load out of nowhere, just because the wire can handle 10 amps doesn't means you will have a 10 amp load connected to it. OP's light will draw 1 amp tops, and in case of fault, either because of a short or because he's plugging too much shit into the outlet, the breaker that was originally selected will protect the original line. Upgrading the original line makes no sense and it's a waste of time and money, since the current it will carry is LIMITED by the breaker.

Beakers protect the lines, not the other way around. Here in europe, when designing a branch of the circuit, you first make an estimation of the loads, apply corrective factors if needed depending on the installation type (underground, in a tray, inside a wall, single conductor, multiple conductor...), select the appropriate wire section and only then select the breaker with a rated current BELOW the current the connectors can handle and the short circuit currents. Just because the most common minimum wire size is 1.5mm2 and can handle 13 amps doesn't means I have to put a >26 amp wire before the first branch, >52 amp for the second, >104 amp for the third... I hope by now you're realizing how retarded your logic is.

>10a loads you need a 25a circuit
You guys are mixing loads with current capacity ratings. A 1amp light is a 1 amp load. A one amp load needs a conductor that can handle that load, a conductor that can handle that load needs a breaker to protect that conductor. It's not that hard.

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New to this, are there educational links, resources, etc that should go up here?

I start a job soon as an apprentice. Other than calipers and mic, what are some tools to get?
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>we're gonna machine some shit Morty
>take this sharp piece of metal and cut other metal Morty
>the shit they built civilizations with
>you think Jessica is hot check out these mad chips I'm slinging Morty
>I'm machinist Rick!
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>tfw I spend 2 hours making a bushing for a part but then when the customer comes to see how his project is coming along I realize I bored the taper backwards
not really machining but I did this with the laser

For similar-sized bearings, the square ones will be more rigid. Between the fact that they're more directly attached to the machine frame, the spacing between mount point is generally less, and the much greater contact area between the bearing balls and raceways, there's a reason you will never see the round bearings on a "professional"-level machine. At least, not for anything important.

Note that there are a lot of Hiwin clones on eBay. The biggest giveaway for some of them is that the races are v-shaped instead of an arc. They're not as good as the genuine article, but they are cheaper.

Now, whether it's worth the difference in price in your case? Probably not. Unsupported bearings are flat-out awful for cutting tools. Going from that to the supported round rod will make a huge difference. Going from that to a square profile will probably not make any noticeable difference. The frame itself isn't going to be rigid enough for you to see any benefit from better rails.
Both should have the play as advertised which can range from very free running with a little play to high preload high stiffness no play but high friction.

>I have a CNC router which uses plain unsupported shafts with typical round linear bearings for the Y and the Z.
>There is a fair bit of deflection and I cant decide if the square ones are worth the extra money or not.
>Im not exactly sure if the play is from the bearing itself or from the shafts bending.
Unsupported guides are unsuited for milling in any form. There are supported round guides but for milling you should go straight to profile rails. Go at least one step above the cheapest grade so you actually get a preload info of some sort. Light preload is fine for routing. Be aware that most of these need to be mounted on an accurate frame. Unless you order them specifically for unsupported mounting they may not be straight. Most people with DIY routers end up with them sooner or later so why try some expensive steps in between.

If you buy chinese garbage the profile rails are probably a little better on average then the round rails. I bought some smaller ones once and they were surprisingly good (no play/light preload). But it's hit and miss.
Boss wont buy new machines, the ones i work with are busted ass raggedy old ones from early 90s or 80s
Sure they work still, but they should be serviced at least once a year. None of them have every been except when there was some catastrophic damage.
Old DECKELS, 3 of them.
3 are with tool magazines but none work, so every tool is changed by hand.
one of those 2 swings the tool by 0.05 mm each turn so i cant do shit unless its something rough.
Other one is used only for serial work, a professional repairman comes every year only for the magazine to repair it in a new way, says we should give up each time (only newfags work serial work after i set it up)
The 3rd one is my baby, it has adjustable everything, its old, battered and has seen a lot of violence
I do a little ballet kind of dance whenever im called upon a problem or something weird and i literally cant miss any measure or tolerance on it.
The machine talks to me, it vibrates and i listen to it, i know where the reference point is just by holing my hand pressed on the side of the machine.
I clean it, i vacuum the dust off of its computer plate things, i pat it like a dog when its suffering milling 4mm depth of heat treated surface with a 120mm face mill.
The pro bro guy that fixes everything (he only fixers cnc machines and is rich af) set me up with a built in multimeter to measure machine stress on a dial, it shuts off by safety feature on 10 and the scale is 1 to 10.
I told my boss if he ever decies to sell that machine to sell it to me.
Its like having a woman, except she earns money for me and supports my weird talent.
I had gfs become jealous of how much i talk about that machine.
The moments i cherish is when im given a very hard task i go about it freestyle with the whole shop being at my disposal, i do a little ballet kind of movement with hands and upper body as i clean it from chips, oil up the table and rub it with super fine sand paper then start to assemble the clamping system.

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Something in my house is making my hands smell like old pennies and it is driving me crazy. I cant figure out what the hell is causing it and its making me want to wash my hands like every 30 minutes and its hard to get off. Ive gone around and tried sanitizing all the surfaces and objects I touch regularly, no luck. I thought maybe it was a brassy old doorknob on one of the doors, sanitized it, and nope, thats not it, still there from SOMETHING. Any ideas diy??
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Water? Humidity? Turn the decorative fountain off
>Something in my house is making my hands smell like old pennies
that something is you.
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means in German: Alterungsgeruch... Means in plain English: A fucking old bag smells like hell from itself
hire a jew. they can sniff out a penny from a mile away, so should be able to find the source. be warned, they aren't cheap though (well, they are, but thats another matter)

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Last one hit bump limit. I'm looking for a tiller to break rocky/clay spots for a lawn renovation. One week hydraulic tiller rental on home depot is 700 bucks and a 1 week rental of a rear tine tiller is 400. One day rentals aren't going to work. Is this used 80s 2 wheel tractor worth 500 bucks?

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flap disc and cooling often
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the inlet hose on my fridge wasn't installed securely and was leaking into my floorboard for months. opened up the basement ceiling yesterday to find this. that stringy white shit is mold isn't it? what do
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I relocated the alternator pulley in my car so it isn't at the bottom, in the place of the a/c condenser, and it squeaks like crazy
is it because the alternator pulley is out of alignment or is it because there's only one side of contact on the fan clutch pulley?
pic related
* only squeaks on start up or acceleration, idles sound free

How can I start woodworking and metalurgy? Is there any introductory book that you could recommend?
mein kampf
Pick one or the other
Also Youtube.

Also woodworking is for faggots
So, you're looking to get into knife making?

>woodworking is for faggots
Eat shit, I just sold a guitar I made for $4500.

That's a good one.

How useful is an arbor press for automotive work? Wheel bearings and the like.

I've been fighting with wrist pins for the past day and I only have 1 out. I need a press, and I dunno if an arbor press would be good enough.
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where? i want to relive the 90's
Paramount Plus, they are making new episodes again
they're not as good as the old ones though, some of the magic is missing
I like it though.
Shoulda splurged for the 50 ton model.

This is a “$1000” kaleidoscope. How do I make one?
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Well hopefully I showed him how to answer his own questions in the future. Also hopefully this thread can now die.
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Well I didnt know they exist and now I know how to make one from stepping into this thread so fuck that other guy. You keep up the good work.
You will never do it either.

i'm thinking about it
this entire board is about helping your fellow anons you fucking parasite

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