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File: JVCstereo.png (196 KB, 1245x1015)
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I have an old JVC car tape deck that has sentimental value that loses like an hour on the clock every 24 hours. I have the wiring diagram can anyone tell me were to start on finding what would be causing that? everything else works fine.
heres where i got the manual https://www.audioservicemanuals.com/j/jvc/jvc-ks/jvc-ksrt/260886-jvc-ksrt-404-service-manual
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I put the stereo back together and now the clocks is working fine
Yeah sometimes that happens lol
With old electronics, all that dust and gunk could subtly interfere with the components. Opening it up changes that atmosphere. You got lucky with that one.

I'd expect it to have a more serious failure in the next couple years. You should clean the board with isopropyl alcohol and a soft, clean brush. If you really love this thing and just want it to remain non-broken, then vacuum seal it and put it away in a dark, temperature-stable place.
Might not hurt to re-cap the board soon.
can a bad cap throw the clock off?

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So my father died and I moved back to my family farm and I'm a bit overwhelmed. I finally got the tractor working last year and everything is bushhogged, replaced some fencing, etc. Some of his tools are old and need replacing, others are scattered about piecemeal and I have no idea what goes to what.
I've recently been cutting down a bunch of dead trees and now I have a bunch of tree stumps to deal with. I'm going to drill them, burn them, and hack them up b/c that seems fun and relatively quick. But I don't have a drill that's adequate. What type and brand should I get that will do the job and get me bay on future jobs like building above ground gardens, building a chicken coop, building a new enclosure for the old tractor, building a new deck.
holy shit this is overwhelming.
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Regardless, make sure to make a farmer friend or two who can guide through the extremely important steps of finding grants, banks, buyers, contractors and orgs to join, from most important to least.
>Half of the population has an IQ below 100
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Hey OP, I'm glad you got the family farm despite the unfortunate succession of the property.
If you're looking for resources on making the most of it I can't recommend the book "Gaia's Garden" enough. I'm not exaggerating when I say it gave me a whole new outlook on the stewardship of my 40 acres and made my life an order of magnitude easier. I sometimes get frustrated thinking about how long I went about things before reading this book. Now my land isn't my main source of income so I don't experience the same financial pressures most conventional farms do, but the whole permaculture mindset this introduced me to has made growing food cheaper with less effort, less fertilizer, less irrigation and a greater variety of food. Hell after getting into permaculture heating my house got easier.
I hope you have a great time making your land into something you'll be proud to pass onto your own children.
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that's the plan. roof is done. some kitchen work will be next. then decks. hopefully will have basement, shed, and garage cleaned out by spring and be able to put up above ground gardens and a large chicken coop by then.
you're right. maybe I should own nothing and be happy
I work in manufacturing. I'd recommend looking there if there's anything around you. we have a young guy who lives out of his car and has saved like 40k in well under two years.
I have family with a similar sized land and they have tons of chickens. no smell. I don't plan on making rows of chicken houses, just running chicken tractors up and down the pastures after half a dozen or so little dexter cows.
This won't be my main source of income. Just something to subsidize the family's costs and create a source of higher quality food for me and my neighbors who I share with. if I can turn a little profit doing it, then great, but it isn't the main focus.

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Marvel at my creative genius for I have constructed many things.

>My hands have been blessed by god to morph materials into aesthetic forms.
>Form over function, function over form, i laugh at your petty squabbles to belittle my achievements.
>From the depths of desperation and depression I have channeled my hate into creation.
>The essence of The Plan ignites my heart with joy.
>As you gaze deeply into the images know, suffering and hopelessness were forgotten for a while with each project I undertook.

As an act of pure selflessness I allow you to witness the final stages of each of my ventures.

1/? The first is a bike that touches the skies and contends with the tower of babel
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In ancient defunct steel frame manufacturers.
You made a tall bike shaped object, not a tall bike
so which is it? either the gyroscopic effect is enough to keep the bike balanced, or you as the rider have to constantly be balancing the bike yourself.
heated copper can lead to brain issues
I did not build that. You sound like the sort of person who spends a great deal of time online justifying your $50 carbon fiber bar end tassels, 3/10th of a gram lighter than the $2 tassels!
the gyroscopic effect isn't a very significant part of what balances a bike anyway, it obviously has some effect but you can make a bike with 2" wheels and it still rolls along fine if you give it a push even with no one on it
the biggest factor is the angle of the front fork, the center of gravity, and the way the steering is set up behind the wheel which makes them naturally self correcting. If it starts to lean left, the angle the front wheel contacts the ground at changes, which rotates the handlebars and it steers towards the left back under its CG, righting itself. Normally that's a really tiny motion happening constantly and not really perceivable, but a more extreme version where the frame starts flexing and it overcorrects is what leads to the "death wobble" you see sometimes.
It's also something people do instinctually when riding a bike, if you want to make a left turn you have to turn right the handlebars slightly to the right first to get the front wheel to do a curve from the right to the left which keeps your center of gravity inside of it, otherwise you just tip over. Most people aren't aware they're doing it but everyone does.

Developing game activity for children. This site has something for kids of all ages.

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Been seeing a handful of people talk about making new youtube channels.
Lots of people with talent and knowledge on this board, lots of shitty quality youtube channels succeeding.
Maybe in this new year we should throw down some film, upload and see what happens.

Do you have a youtube channel?
Are you planning on making one?
Lets do this.
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>EC is the GOAT
My abominations could never approach what he achieved with the 'spec house'.
I have a YT channel up, and it's been doing alright for a bit. Though I decided to change my schedule and upload a bit more frequently (used to only do it once a month or so) and now my videos aren't getting as much traction. Should I be concerned? Or am I overreacting?
Read a book
Any recommendations on books dedicated to creating a youtube channel?
I suggest watching youtube videos on how to make a youtube channel.

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How can I make a computer see itself?

A mirror is the simplest idea. Would a telescope work if it saw itself in the sky? Can I use a forensics computer to analyze silicon from its circuitry?

Hmm. How does a computer see the universe? Do you think it stares at you through it's monitor? Do you think it's as simple as just waving hello?

Maybe try to teach it math. Maybe it forgot.

Thanks for reading.
a computer might be able to "think" in the way you describe one day in the future, but for now they're just (fantasically complicated) machines.
there are people working on making AI with computers, see the chatbot threads that have taken over /g/ recently for examples, you can talk with crude AIs to see how that is developing, but these are just clever simulations for now, not really thinking meaningfully.
try asking over in the /g/ threads or maybe ask the chatGPT AI over at https://chat.openai.com/chat if you want better answers.
Hmmmmm. Nice try. AI is too complicated. That's like using an aqueduct to flush a toilet.

I was thinking of more like igniting a computers soul instead of trying to speak to a prearranged sequence of responses. Something artistic that it would respect if proffered.

What if I built it a special room and decorated it for it? Do you think it would recognize it was for itself?
uh i dont think so but you are welcome to try
if you want some more serious talk about how to bring about the sort of machine you want, have a listen to some of joscha bach's interviews. it's dense but gives a pretty good picture of where we are, what needs to still happen and what a machine with a "soul" or "agency" might eventually look like.
>That's like using an aqueduct to flush a toilet.

>Doesn't understand the purpose and function of basic plumbing fixtures and ancient supply infrastructure schemes
> thinks he's going to challenge and transcend the fundamental precepts of sentience and the meaning of life itself by making computers self aware using stuff from around the house.
>having set forth his goal, the only thing in his way is to find the elusive answer to the age old question...

"What do?"

Assuming this worked, how do I make this? I assume its a air conditioning.. I see
copper pipes, presumably circulating water via pipe, why i dont know

an ice box... a fan... this has to be an air conditioner right? so how does it work, how would you make one? shouldnt there be a pump
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A small window AC unit will cost you at most maybe $1.50 in electricity per day. Compare that to how much it costs to run the fan, run the pump, drive to the store and back, and purchase X number of bags of ice per day (you'll be likely to go through more than 1 bag a day)
>and purchase X number of bags of ice per day (you'll be likely to go through more than 1 bag a day)
That's easy. One ton of ice (latent heat of fusion) is 288k BTU or 12k BTU/hr over a 24 h period. That makes one pound of ice worth 6 BTU/hr. A window unit is probably in the neighborhood of 3k-10k BTU/hr.
Why do this people use fucking ice for these things ????
I just jury rigged circulation from floor heating to our well that is 5 degrees Celsius even at hottest days.
Just get a free AC off Craigslist. They’re available year round.
this is assuming he’s not buying ice. If you buy ice it works. or if your room is sufficiently seperate from the fridge.

I want to make myself a force sensing joystick. The reason being that they're like 500 bucks and I can probably build one myself for about 50. The joystick part itself isn't hard, I'll just buy a cheap stick and fit it onto a bit of pipe the right kind of diameter, then wire the buttons to an arduino or something.
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So I want to use load cells, because they're cheap and I don't have to do any fancy machining shit and use strain gauges.

I found this concept, and I like it. I'm going to replace all the dumb 3D printed junk with just a piece of square box tube, so there are essentially 4 load cells mounted inside a piece of square box with a bit of separation between them, with 2 bolts each I doubt they'll shift. Then I can just add some 90 degree brackets for mounting.

The problem is the central joystick bit. I figure I'll use a round bit of pipe for it with a circular ring at the top which contacts all the load cells slightly, I might even consider cutting a channel and using an o-ring instead to add a bit of play. But I've got a few design issues. First, how do I secure the stick within the well? Just put a bolt in to a bottom plate?

And second, how do I wire up the load cells? I've seen a few designs, and they all seem to use the load cells wired together. But this has me worried when it comes to zeroing them out properly. The top ring will put a small amount of force on all the cells, and when I pull to one side, that pressure will be let off its counterpart, which means if they aren't zero'd right, the movement won't be linear because it'll be a combination of the positive and negative forces. I wonder if I'm not better off wiring up each load cell individually, to create 4 separate axes that all start at zero, and then I don't have to worry about the linearity.
Well, it looks like in your image, they secured it to the base with a heavy spring.
Other images I've seen of similar projects affix the shaft directly to the load sensors, and just leave the end seated in a divot or such.

Here's a slightly more outside-the-box idea for you. What about using 3 sensors and some trigonometry instead of 4? Then the sensors won't be aligned on parallel axes, so you might get less fluctuating in pressure as individual sensors unload. Or any odd-number of sensors to avoid parallel axes.
I'm thinking of using a threaded M10 coupling for the central shaft, so I guess I could add a spring at the base to give it a bit of free movement. Maybe a couple of rubber o-rings used like washers at the base could give me a bit of play, and it'd be easy enough to switch between a fully static stick and one with a few mm of deflection like in real jets just by putting them in.

As for 3 sensors, I don't see much point. It's harder to construct, the sensors themselves aren't expensive, and the fluctuation is still an issue, when you push towards one sensor the other two are getting unloaded a little bit. I think just using 4 amps is the way to go, it's an extra couple of bucks and it avoids any issues with calibrating the zero point.

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brass wins in ever regard except hardness. sexy, easy to work, abundant, ages like wine and did i mention it is sexy when it gets tarnished?
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I go with bronze because there never was a Brass Age, thank god.
Of course there never was a brass age. Our ancestors weren't dumb enough to use an ugly, weak material as brass.
inconcels rise up
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>Our ancestors weren't dumb enough to use an ugly, weak material as brass.
Except for the medieval butt trumpets.
agreed, brass is pretty awesome

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How would I go about patching gaps between asbestos sheets?
I've got a house thats asbestos clad with these ugly joins. I'd like to get rid of them, fill in the gap with plaster or something then paint over the top.
The joins are wood and nailed into the struts so can be removed safely. What would be the best course of action?
Gaps are about 20mm-30mm wide and 5mm deep
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Lick your finger and run it through the gap multiple times, saliva will bond asbestos shut. Be sure to use the same finger as your other fingers are different sizes
>fill in the gap with plaster or something then paint over the top
That wouldn't last more than a season change due to expansion & contraction between summer and winter. If you want to do something where that seam isn't visible you'd need to use something that is flexible, like silicone caulking, that can move as that gap closes and opens. This is the reason that what covered that gap before was a surface mounted strip of wood, it allowed the siding panels to shrink & expand behind it without there being gaps visible.
You can try using cement-based thinset + drywall mesh. But that would crack.
You can try using caulk (MS polymer or PU), but that would shrink.
I left the asbestos sheets as is, and ran sheets of plaster (drywall) over all the asbesto, glued over. Then, meshed, filled, sanded, etc. Didn't take long, and final product came out better.
I thought this was outside, because I don't remember having indoor asbestos except in fire rated drywall. Oh and soviet russia bathroom where they used fiber cement sheets.

But yes, this is a good solution.

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>he fell for the p*x meme
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Pex is BPA free
No it doesn't, copper is perfectly safe and solder has no lead in it for decades now
Zoomers are fine, they are just young and you are old fart "muh kids these days"
>ITT schizo and boomer posting
I think pvc is pretty good, though only for drain lines.
PVC/zinc makes water taste off in my opinion. Personally i think copper is good, so long as the solder isn't leaded. But you'd have to go to a third world country ti find leaded solder these days.
>I think pvc is pretty good, though only for drain lines.
schedule 40 is fine for supply lines.
RoHS is what happens when politicians take decision instead of engineers.
Here is a fun fact. Intel Pentium 3 processors were RoHS compliant way before RoHS was a thing because Intel decided to use lead-free alloy for whatever reason, probably matched better expansion/contraction rates of compound they put under the CPU die or whatever.
Rest of industry didn't do that, so all chips that weren't Intel from 00-10's will fail... Because they didn't match materials or design of silicone.

And guess what? EU is doing it again, they are going to mandate USB-C(ommunism). For power delivery.
USB-C is a horrible standard, because it was design by a retard. Have you seen pins in the USB-C port? They are tiny, yet they carry 5A. Not mentioning that newest USB-C is super high voltage, like 48V for 250W... On pins that are 0.25 mm apart.
I have a lead water main nigger

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can anyone verify this recipe? Wanna know if the person who posted it was just trolling
ah yes the anarchists cookbook
very valuable for minecraft recipes
who has the minecraft formula for LSD-25?
don't do it it will make cool crystals
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Don't fall for literal psyops like the Anarchist Cook Book, use the government's tools against itself.

Looking at buying my first cordless drill for diy projects. Currently the Makita LXT, Dewalt Atomic, and Milwaukee M18 are all on sale at Home Depot for around $100. The Ryobi ONE+ HP is $90. All four come with at least one battery. I was originally considering the Ryobi because it comes with two batteries and all the future tools I’d buy from them would be noticeably cheaper than the Big 3. But as of late I’ve been reconsidering. If I’m just doing odd jobs around my house will I really gain anything by buying a tool from the Big 3? Should I just get the Ryobi and buy into their battery ecosystem so I can buy their cheaper tools whenever I need to add something new to my collection? Or should I pay the extra $10 for a big-name drill and embrace getting nicer but more expensive tools for every job?
If you recommend going the ‘nicer tool’ route is there any advantage for picking one brand over the other?
Normally I wouldn’t care this much about branding but it seems like it would be very convenient not to have to have different batteries for different tools I buy in the future.
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>Literally NOBODY buys battery adapters
Yeah because people are retards like Bepis and rather buy into 5 different battery platforms because that's totally convenient.
>people acting like there are enough cordless tools worth buying, that youll end up buying 5 different brands
Once you own a Drill and an Impact Driver, the cordless gimmick becomes far less important and as your tools get bigger become a detriment.
I went to the Depot and the Makita felt the best in my hand. Surprisingly the Rigid was the second best. I wanted to like the Milwaukee more because of the metal chuck but it just felt okay.
>battery ecosystem
I don't know why people get all turned up about this. I have dewalt, ryobi, ridgid, and milwaukee. the inability to put a ridgid battery on a milwaukee doesn't really matter, since that battery already fits the ridgid. yes it's nice if they're all the same, but it's really not a show-stopper if it's just your own tools. there's no 1 brand that makes everything
This. Also it’s probably not a good idea to use on any high demand tools. Could be very easy to damage batteries and/or tools depending on the protection circuit setup, plus you’re never going to get the extra power from HP/HO/MAX packs on those tools.

I do not own a battery adapter because I’m not that retarded. I am quite retarded, but I’m a savvy consoomer. Also I’m good without adapters because it would be retarded to try and get an adapter so I could take the Ryobi batteries for my OPE stuff and stick them on the Ridgid drills and saws and impacts.

The one thing a lot of people compliment the orange brand on is their hex grip design. Read reviews from the gay tool blogs and the authors often mention that it’s their favorite of all the brands. Ribbed for her pleasure.

Is pouring epoxy between two beautiful walnut slabs the most cringe disgusting pathetic fad you have seen? God I hate this one so much. Some retard probably paid 30k to put this in his ski house god damn I hate epoxy cucks so god damn much.
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That looks extremely ugly.
I find it extremely disappointing that nobody has tried to make Jupiter out of resin
maybe neptune or a moon is a better fit?
Yes. Fuck off.
>how dare you observe reality

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I found this old can while hiking in the desert
I am thinking about some sort restoration but not sure how or what could be done.
Any ideas?
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Its amazing in the winter-spring, especially right after a big rain
I have driven out into the desert in my van before a big storm and just planned to stay there until the roads dried up
Weeks worth of food and water , find a nice piece of high ground , and just watch the desert come alive
this, the desert is underrated
Who cares throw it away retard

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