[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
06/20/16New 4chan Banner Contest with a chance to win a 4chan Pass! See the contest page for details.
[Hide] [Show All]

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: basement.jpg (419 KB, 1405x1525)
419 KB
419 KB JPG
>all basement bedrooms must have an escape window

In this area of chicago all the basements are 5' concrete wall to grade and small glass block windows above that. There's no way I could convert that to an egress.
Yet there are tons of mexican families in this area with the same kind of house that have people living in the basement and im positive they dont have escape windows. Do I just have to say to the inspector this is a rec/study room not a sleeping room?
(ignore the walls, they are all getting removed for a new project, the original was done in the 60s)
23 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
im in luck, this would just be for an extra rec room/bedroom for a single family dweling. the upstairs only has two beds which is okay but cramped.
i thought about putting a bathroom in down there, but they'd have to cut a trench in the concrete floor and pipe out the waste into the existing lines. sounds like a ton of money.
electrician pros sounds fine to me, I'll just make sure i have it all planned out so i can tell them where i want outlets. lights, etc.
i'll probably be back in a few months to ask more specific questions later.
but here's one for now, when i remove the old non-bearing walls in the basment, how do you remove the bottom plate anchor bolts, do you just saw them off in place? The new stud walls can have a different spacing for the bolts so I wont need to worry abouy the leftover in the concrete floor
If you are finding anchor bolts then consult a professional before removing the wall.
adding a bathroom if not too hard you just rent a concrete saw to cut the floor or spend days with a hammer drill drilling lines of holes if your really cheap. you can do the plumbing yourself and pass inspection if you spend a few hours reading how to do it right like the difference between a 45 and a sanitary T

you can frame the entire place with 2x4 a miter saw hammer and nails in a day. another 3 days to drywall and mud it halfasssed. make friends with an electrician and tom sawyer them with beer to do your electrical for real cheap.
I've seen one of these in my neighborhood and they have a metal grate over top of it lol
This guy gets it

File: 20200518_040159.jpg (93 KB, 689x1224)
93 KB
so i decided to build a vertical wind turbine from an old ebike motor out of pure boredom, i have no background in mechanical/electrical engineering, but i got two working hands and a few tools, so far so good, still gotta get a 3 phase bridge rectifier and a few more items but im starting to think its too big for that tiny motor in the middle..its just a 250w one, i have a feeling this turbine is big enough to spin a 2000w motor..
5 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
i think you underestimate how large this turbine is and how much torque it has, i can spin it with a light touch with the tip of my finger while the motor 3 phase cables are all shorted, usually people short the motor when they want to break their turbine in high wind, here it'll barely have an effect, maybe 2000w is stretch idk, but its def oversized for a 250w motor..
Install a pulley and have it pull up a bucket of water with a known volume on a windy day. You'll have to try several different fill levels but then you'll know its power output.
interesting concept, so you're not going to use it to charge batteries, instead feed it directly to your home? how much rpm do you reckon it'll peak at?
there aren't enough consistently windy days where i live to try something like this
nono, it will charge batteries, thats why i need a rectifier to turn the 3 phase ac into dc i can use to charge a battery, that battery will then feed an inverter that i can use to power household stuff, no wind is consistent enough to run straight off the turbine
Well nice, you could always shorten the arms to get more rpm and less torque.

File: file.png (712 KB, 911x919)
712 KB
712 KB PNG
>this trigger /diy/ and toolfags.
51 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.

i have one, it's ok, i use it with a grinding wheel to clean up cuts for the Chicago electric pro (blue) with the paddle switch, that way i'm not swapping out wheels constantly
corded VSR drill is lighter and has unlimited legs.

it's literally the first power tool anyone should get, spend like $30 on one
File: IMG_20200525_120429.jpg (2.9 MB, 3024x4032)
2.9 MB
2.9 MB JPG
Yeah baby
This thing's a beast.
Thought it was Ryobi trash in the thumbnail

ITT: Onions tools
36 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
My beaner coworkers would steal those so fast I wouldn't even get a chance to use them
Buy a pair of HF channellocks, some big 16” guys, and be their faces in when you catch them with your shit.
The 1st person singular of the verb ser in Castillian.
Just to clarify: you are under the impression that drills are more complex than computers?
What tool ISN’T chink shit nowadays? Everything you buy will have at least 1 component of it made in China.
Prove me wrong

hey im looking for a a 3 position switch positioned off/on/on (or vice versa havent found any so dont know the proper label. Every switch i have found has off in the middle. Any1 know were i can go to find one or think im gonna have to rig one? Came out of a 73 cjv dash(trying to make a as close as possible replacement).
pic is said jeep
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
doesnt exist anymore except maybe through some military junk collector and even then its still hard to find a working one.
Off in the middle is correct in my 71 dj postal.
lucas u39 for a turny knob
lucas spb364 for a choke-pull knob
lucas 57sa for a toggle switch
yeah yeah, le smokey harness meem. your american switch isn't working either, though.
File: unnamed.png (21 KB, 512x332)
21 KB
What you want is a 4PDT toggle that's cascaded. You can wire it to produce off/on/on: see page 3 of this .pdf for suggestions:
thats a cj theres mountains are parts for these and new parts still made
look at davysjeeps hes got the biggest jeep junkyard in the united states he can mail you the switch

File: 0523202316b.jpg (2.7 MB, 4160x2336)
2.7 MB
2.7 MB JPG
crap ammo and very stuck shell casings have lead me to want to build a custom ram rod for my AR-15.

first thing is first i have this brass sheet that i want to cap my steel rod with so I don't score the rifling. any ideas on best methods for doing this?

end product will have a slot cut into the ramming end so that a patch can be feed through it, if that effects any ideas on how to best attach the brass.
35 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
>spoon feed
no one has said anything other than "buy one" and this being on the DIY board.
The "cleanest" way is to make your own draw dies, punch an undersized cup, trim it on the lathe, then torch and interference fit it on the rod.

Or just save time and money and do what literally anyone else suggested.
It's still cheaper to run steel and change barrels early than to buy brass.
this is true.
I use a car antenna. The ball at end is ground down to diameter. A solid brass cabinet knob is drilled and tapped to go on threaded end for weight. Works awesome.

I'm a welder fabricator at an automation company and keep an assortment of tools in a belt pouch. It's gotten rather excessive but I finally found all the tools I need to do pretty much everything. At least everything that wouldn't require hauling the contraption I'm cobbling over to my welding lair. I'm a huge German fanboy. The contents of this pouch is worth about $300 USD

So what do you nerds carry every day?
72 replies and 21 images omitted. Click here to view.
Excellent. Wicked set, too. Can I get it in SDS?
File: 1205131231.jpg (389 KB, 1200x1600)
389 KB
389 KB JPG

Works great on tree roots!
You either don't know what a gypsy is or don't know what a Pole is. Or both.

File: Heat exchanger.gif (167 KB, 640x527)
167 KB
167 KB GIF
Hey all! I got an old home with a shit tier HVAC design, no return vent on the top floor means it gets hot as balls. Id like some input on the viability of title project, specifically Id like to get some opinions on whether I'd just be wasting my time and if it seems viable, I'd love some advice on implementation.

My basement has somewhat of a groundwater issue, if my sump goes out there is a couple inches of standing water within a day even without a recent rain, one of my sump pump pits is next to some open dirt/limestone bedrock (have not taken a shovel to it yet). I got space to dig down in atleast a 3ft by 2 ft area while leaving enough on the side to get a wheelbarrow in and out (maybe a bit larger to get a bucket down with me). My thought is if I go below the sump level and drop an exchanger line in then the warmer water would rise and be first to be evacuated by the sump, with cooler groundwater settling into the exchanger pit.

The rest is just pipe pump and radiator, if the above seems viable I'd love advice on closed loop vs circulate groundwater and so on.
16 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.

~14379 Gallons of water is needed.
That doesn't seem right, could you explain your math? I know I'm bound to leave stuff out and this ignores the specific heat of the ground the water sits in and so on but:

I'm looking at ~3600 cubic feet, adjusting to specific heat; 864,(7.48 gallons per cubic foot, forgot about that step)
6463gal @80 degrees; so the napkin math says 6463 gallons of water in a closed system would average at 69.

Still not sure how close I am to getting good figures to work with but I have most of what I need on hand already so investment cost is still relatively low. Even if the savings aren't enough to replace an ac compressor running I would love to get some solar projects running a couple hundred in solar panels would totally be worth it if this can save me say 100 a year off my utility bills. (I also like the idea of solar shading out some of my roof).
If I were you I would look at a hydronic heat pump. You can run a chilled water pipe to where you need it with a hydronic air handler for that room. You can get ones that do both heating and cooling. You could technically set up a system to heat a large hot water storage tank while it is running to cool the house. Greater efficiency that way.

If you are stuck on utilizing the ground water you can take the return warm water/coolant from the air handler in the room, run it through a heat exchange in your groundwater and back through the heat pump to take some of the load off of the heat pump.

Bonus with this system is it can also handle heating in the winter or at least support the heating system you may already have (if it get too cold they are less efficient with heating)
File: 1589329818893.jpg (25 KB, 400x400)
25 KB
Will have to research a hydronic air handler.

I also love the idea of tieing a heat pump to the cold cellar to cut down on some cost. A heat pump that warms rooms doesnt make sense for me otherwise because I'm in minnesota and we can hold temps below 0 for months at a time in the winter, typically way too cold to run heating when its useful, tapping the cellar could shift that into the useful range.
Minnesota soil is pretty cold, if his sump pit water is the same as the soil temperature a meter down it's already around the same temperature as normal hydronic cooling setups use.

He'll need a couple thousand liters a day for a room, but looking around a lot of sump pits handle way in excess of that.

File: Slonce_majowe.jpg (141 KB, 693x800)
141 KB
141 KB JPG
Like, sail level thick. I have old folding bed with thick old canvas, trying to fix it.
Right now Im using giant needle and pliers, but its pain in the anus, there must be a better way.
2 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Yeah, just a much more massive one for sailmaking.
Get an awl or pic related
This and some good sail makers needles, don't go cheap. They have a triangular cross section that parts the threads of the canvas instead of piercing them.
Havent seen that one before, sure beats fucking with pliers, thx.
>One social credit point was added to your account.
If I knew I was helping the Chinese government I might have lied a bit

File: security camera.png (129 KB, 1200x800)
129 KB
129 KB PNG
I need to install security cameras in a building. It's 4 story but 10' high ceilings. It's a brick building and is all residential with 12 units. I don't want to pay for internet access and don't need remote access. Just need to be able to review after incidents. I also want wireless cameras on the top floors so I don't have to run cable. I have junction boxes mounted on walls on all floors that power the fire alarms. What's a good system to go with what I want? Tips on the wireless? Any input appreciated. I want to start with wired cameras at the entrances and try to have wireless on the rest of the floors.
>I don't want to pay for internet
I wonder who could be behind this post
>Buy cameras and a camera dvr
>install them
Hard one moshie
Not American but I'm pretty you can't share junction boxes for fire alarm system wiring with anything else.

File: sweat.jpg (22 KB, 460x397)
22 KB
ITT: times you jerryrigged things that haunt you to this day. I'll start:

>be electrician doing residential work
>trying to relocate j box through hole i made in ceiling because cabinet guys fucked up their measurements
>cutting out nails that hold it into stud with sawzall
>see a flash
>oh fuck
>i cut through some romex and scored the hot wire, exposed copper
>can't just cut the romex where i scored it and refeed it into box because it has no play at all
>strip romex back to about an inch past where i scored it
>wrap the hot wire with a fuckload of black electrical tape
>wrap the rest of the 3 wires with a fuckload of yellow electrical tape
>shove it back into box through connector
>reconnect that shit and put cover back on

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
92 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
File: keke pepe.jpg (94 KB, 471x388)
94 KB
>Brown Trout always in season.
This. Dont even give a fuck. But then again, you probably could have patched that all in 45 min and included it in the bill
Anon, surely you would never install an inaccessible j box. Who would approve that
different anon here. just did a basement remodeling job on this older house. probably a dozen j boxes with whips feeding the upper floors. owner would rather bury all these j boxes than have blanks all over the place in his newly finished basement. its not getting inspected so whatever.
>Complaining about rage comics
>On 4chan
>Home of the rage comics
Why are you here

File: IMG_20200527_202718920.jpg (2.99 MB, 4096x3072)
2.99 MB
2.99 MB JPG
So I built this little door for the bottom of our stairway. I am not a carpenter or even work in construction, so I make what I can how I can in the most practical way with limited tools I have. My mother has cats and never put in the time to get them to get along, so we have them separated, couple upstairs and couple downstairs. She used to put a baby gate at the bottom of the stairs and I finally got tired of jumping over it or taking it on and off. It's 4X4 and I wanted to make all the rails in the middle going vertically the same but my two big hardware stores had nothing but warped twisted garbage, so ended up using other boards that were straight and filling in with the thin ones. I'll maybe paint it or stain it later on down the road. Used a couple pieces of board to reinforce where the hinges are. What do you guys think? What have you people with not very much experience making things done lately?
9 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
It's a very nice stairsgate. If you do paint it which I think you should make sure you take the time to sand the edges to a round and fill all your screwholes, it could look very primo.
Pretty good. However, consider adding something diagonal to prevent sagging. Over time gravity will pull the latch side down. The only thing in your gate currently providing any resistance to sagging is the two screws in the end of each board. That is not adequate. Consider that if you had only one screw in the end of each board, the whole arrangement would pivot around those screws and it would rack in either direction out of square.

What you want is a diagonal piece cut like the blue one in the drawing so it fits at the way from the top corner on the latch side to the bottom corner on the hinge side. This ensures that the weight of the latch side is resting on the hinge sidde, and then it can't sag much over time.
Don't know, he hasn't tried...yet.
Thanks. Hopefully he doesn't jump. I might end up painting it the same as the wall or a dark walnut that matches the furniture in the living room.
It smells great, we keep it clean and are constantly cleaning the hair off the furniture with a chom chom.
Thanks, already sanded for the most part. One of the cats was sliding his face up and down on the wood so I'm glad I did that.
Good idea, didn't think of that. Thanks.
why not just get rid of the cats instead of butchering your house? they will just jump over eventually. who even likes cats. they are fucking awful
It looks nice I like it

File: 1585648326322.png (623 KB, 1000x1000)
623 KB
623 KB PNG
past 4 months i have had both wheelbarrow handles snap, 2 chainsaws break, hardwood rated nails bend in softwood, pickaxes bend ect ect
cant complete any project purely due to the fact there is not even a durable "premium" option
what do i even do i feel like "a bad workman always blames his tools" is so ingrained that the Chinese manufacturers exploit it
every older guy i go to for advice on the matter says im the problem without ever having seen me work
22 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
better than a master of one
Hate to add to your bad news, but I think it's most likely user error. Tools exist to make work easier. If you are putting so much strain on them that they are breaking, you aren't using them correctly.
Too much weight in the wheelbarrows. Chainsaws don't break unless you drop a tree on them. Parts wear out and being generally unaware of signs of wear and not maintaining them can cause them to no longer start and/or cut. If you can't maintain them, get them serviced by people that can. The nails are an issue of poor technique (more practice will solve this problem) or you're sending nails into knots, which is best avoided. Pickaxes bend when used incorrectly. A pickaxe should not be used as a lever. Use a 2x4 or in your case 4x6 may handle the abuse you are dishing out.
Don't blame the Chinese. This is not their fault. They are paid to make things cheaply.
If you don't want to learn to use your tools the right way, you can replace them with larger more industrial tools or modify existing tools. The wheelbarrow handles can be replaced with metal square tubing. Chainsaws- educate yourself. Nails- buy a nailgun. Pickaxe- Weld a large square tubing on as a replacement handle or maybe buy a bobcat/skidsteer with a digging attachment.
I treat all wood handles for tools outside with boiled linseed oil, and if it's fancy hardwood, then I coat it with shellac afterwards. I don't buy fiberglass handles.

I use Ames' Razor-Back for my shovels and wheelbarrows (2 wheels). Fiskars for blades. Big box stores don't sell the right tools. The only decent manufacturers sell the blade separately from the handle.

For example, you can't find a hoe with an eye anymore. I purchased mine from Seymour directly. Even though it's made in china, it's fucking better than the garden hoes.
That's what you use a burke bar for.

File: 1492655252268.jpg (326 KB, 1280x960)
326 KB
326 KB JPG
I have to make an FM antenna with the materials in that video, the problem is I don't know how exactly I must sold the cables with the copper wire
Help me pls


I bought a used 12k cruisair unit and am in the process of installing it. I have two spots I can run 4" vents to. Both aft, one high and one low (I'll post a picture). There's no way to get a vent forward so this is the best I can do.

Question is; should I have both vents blowing cold air or should I have the upper vent be an air return to help circulate the air in the cabin and maybe keep it cooler reusing the cooled air? I don't think a single 4" run will do it. Using the flexy aluminum dryer vent stuff.
13 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
No one? Well I'm going to try the recirculating air plan.
Where does the evaporator go? Or does it use sea water?
File: IMG_20200528_191058312.jpg (1.32 MB, 2016x1512)
1.32 MB
1.32 MB JPG
Sea water. It uses a heat exchanger that you can see in >>1830796. It's the large tube twisted around two times in the box.
You should install it behind a sail so when its on it makes your boat for faster

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.