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Besides from the fun of it, is melting cans cost effective? From buying the cans out of hobos or collecting them yourself, to the energy cost of melting them, and the ratio you get from the pounds of cans you melt to the pounds of actual aluminum you cast without mentioning the ROI of the gear required, is it worth the time and effort to make lingots and sell them too keep doing it ?
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Making ingots will never, ever, be worth it financially. You're not getting any more per pound and you're burning fuel.
>Imagine wasting so much propane to melt cans like a nigger
>take the induction furnace pill
>DIY that shit from some hi-amp wire an old microwave and and a 50k v step up transformer
>cans turn to molten liquid in seconds with chad-duction furnace
>not building a 300kw used engine oil burner from junkyard blower and pipe fittings
>People still pay for fuel?
Waste oil gets you 130,000-180,000 BTU/gal, or 10-14 kWh/L.
Veggie or motor oil, doesn't matter, the contaminants make the bigger difference.

20lbs of propane typically runs $10-$25 across the US.
Not including bottle price or deposits because that shit doesn't matter.
420,679 BTU in a 20lb bottle of propane, 17,000-42,000 BTU/dollar.

Whereas with waste oil, I currently push 30,000,000-41,500,000 BTU/dollar, as my blower pulls 30W, which means it runs about $0.00432 per hour, and I max out with this burner at 1 gallon per hour.

So about 700x-2400x cheaper than propane.

You can put together a waste oil burner for the price of a few propane refills.
You can keep your propane bottle and use it to make an oil reservoir if you're feeling cheeky, it'll hold 500,000+ BTU worth of oil at a time and it costs you absolutely nothing to fill it.
Tons of businesses are THRILLED to give away used cooking oil, they typically pay to have it removed, you taking a few gallons for free is cash in their pocket. Engine oil can go either way, many are glad to have you take it, others have a strict procedure and don't want to risk breaking from it.
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My new 50kW build, wanted to play around with a peristaltic pump and PWM control for oil flow, thought it'd be fun.
I already use a simple PWM speed controller for the blower motor so airspeed is easily adjustable.
3D printed adapter to accept the blower.
The oil feed line is retained at the adapter (zip ties are only there during assembly), and sits comfortably in the burner without moving around.
This setup makes it very easy to remove or replace the feed line, I could easily push this particular burner past 150kW if I felt like sizing it up, but this feed line is matched to the pump I'm using for oil.
Coupler lets me experiment with secondary air if I feel like it, but I don't think it'll be necessary with this setup.

Can't wait to see how lean I can run it.

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Anyone else stuck in wagie trade hell thinking about switching to financial services? Just got my p and c license. Studying was fucking boring but i was able to pass my state licensing exams first try as a midwit. Have a work from home agent job lined up that promises 40 - 80k my first year. If this ends up being a total scamaz, i'm quitting on good terms and can always go back to being a tradie. Why risk my body when i can just sit around making phone calls and make double the income? I was NEET before becoming a tradie, so I've only been working full time for 9 months.
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If you can do it, go for it. A friend of mine was a concrete contractor until a divorce made him reevaluate things. He decided he was old enough to start worrying about where he would be in 40 years, and he didn't want to grow his business and have to worry about retarded employees. He switched to insurance and is now some kind of regional sales director and pulls in bank. It's always a good idea to have an exit plan from a physically demanding trade. Get out before you do permanent damage.
My contractorbro added realty quals and not only runs projects but gets deals on the land he develops. Trades go with many things and need not be the sole source of income.

Trade skills are always nice to have. I just walked in from adding another 40' HC (one trip, doors on both ends, not junk) to my row of three. I have plenty of money for objects because my labor is free. I basically get paid to have fun and collect motorcycles (hence the shop expansion).

Trade entrance should be part of a methodically researched career path. Nothing you do is more important than economic security and DIY is a major financial effectiveness multiplier.
what kind of education or skills did you have before?
>t. social retard
Its 2022 do you know how many zombies are sharing license plates of the living nowadays?
Why does that woman look like a bogdanov?

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power tools kinda scare me... can I still be /diy/?
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>whats going on here?
planned demonstration of what can happen with a saw

>tells me to move out the way and he starts hacking at the metal/concrete with the angle grinder and chopsaw like 12-18 inches from his face
Just be like an economics student and think about it risk wise. A prosthetic hand recondition to a usable level will run you $500k at least. Lots of RnD involved. There are save ways to use tools (still dangerous) and unsafe ways. Unsafe ways are not net profitable until several hundred $ an hour (as an example oil field work can be high risk high reward).

You're better of doing some office work in a lot of cases. It's always a gamble but the tail risks of a lot of those more dangerous jobs are much higher than people think. Loosing a finger is one thing but the counter value of loosing your eye sight is in the 7 figures at least.

Let people be stupid if they want to but don't do it yourself unless you don't care.

>there is always cnc.. milling machines
No 1 reason for going CNC or semi manual for me is i'm out of the danger zone. Health care is so hardcore expensive would you bet a million $ for working manual? Nobody in his right mind would. A million bucks is nothing caring for disabled persons.

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Start with cordless drill or impact.
Then get dremel.
Then grinder and welder.

Let's be honest, only grinders and saws are scary.
Guy was showing what happens when you are too retarded to use a table saw properly. Short side against the fence. Pay attention, keep it against the fence. Stay in shape, don't become a fat fucking piece of shit on your way to 600 lbs.
You could learn electronics first and make your own motors, so you can find out how safe they actually are.
Routers, man. Routers are the stuff of nightmares.

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Started with a chicken shack and discards from a local small saw mill 4 months ago. Budget about $2500..
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It was an old ladder, just to make it easier to climb)) I made this one now.
great job op, 10/10
This gif is the recognition i always wanted.
If you don't have a source of clean water that you can manually access then you are as good as dead.
Kentucky Mansion / 10

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I am designing something that detects when a 12v geared motor is pulling it's maximum current and interrupts the circuit until the current overload stops. This is for a small door that closes with a string wound around the motor's shaft, and the power is stopped when the door is fully opened after the string cannot pull anymore.

I am only finding self-resetting breakers with higher current specs, and according to my brief research I will need it to have a switching capacity of 40mA for this particular 12v geared motor. The lowest I have seen them go is 3 Amps, for example this one https://www.amazon.com/GLOSO-Reset-Profile-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B09WJJN7KN/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B07ZQSCJNQ&th=1 .

Am I misunderstanding something, not doing enough amazon searching, or is there another way to break a circuit temporarily and hold that break until the current is reduced underneath a low threshold?
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Windshield wipers used to have an auto reset breaker on them in the fusebox. Also a polyfuse and a relay would work.
consider that once you break the circuit the current will be zero, so how do you determine when to reset the breaker?
This. You need some sort of limit switch. Otherwise your circuit will overload, switch off, cool down, reset, start again, overload again, etc. forever...
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This is the correct answer.
The way you're talking about doing it creates at least as many problems as it solves if not more.
>self resetting breaker
jfc the state of diy

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What is the best rubber cement/putty that will stick for years even when upside down or on a side wall?

I'm trying to stick a hard drive cage into an obscure non-AT case and with no 3D printing, sadism will have to be the best option
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If it's an SSD use a magnet
command strips
considered drilling a hole in the cage and the case and screwing it together?
Or glueing the cage to something that can be screwed/riveted to the case?
Construction adhesive. If it can keep laminate on a counter top for years, it will work for whatever you're doing.
tootsie rolls
>used in wwii to patch gaslines

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New to this, are there educational links, resources, etc that should go up here?

I start a job soon as an apprentice. Other than calipers and mic, what are some tools to get?
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by gluing I mean for example:
>machine in home position
>sees object and finds it has a bounding box (x1,y1) (x2,y2) where x,y are pixels
>oh I am at home, so for the probe to get to x1,y1 I need to do G01 X(??) Y(??)
Reuse the heavy pieces but increase the radius of the glide rods
You can miss the tolerances upt to 0.02 mm but thats it.
Start with the core itself.
10 people make a single tool like that in 6 days
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I really don't know enough about the software side to say whether this is implementable, but my process would go:

> Machine detects object (complete/corner?) with edge detection, determines size, ex. 2x2 px. Divide X and Y component discretely by 2, figure out what to do with odd pixel (translate to .5 px motion? see below)
> Commands X and Y motion to move to camera center (480x480 resolution commands moving object center position right and above 240 px
> Repeat 1 and 2 to allow for lens distortion/parallax
> Record/reference current absolute machine position
> Create a calibration tool or coupon that can be mechanically and optically measured. I would use a circle and put an indicator in the tool head to find mechanical position.
> Now you have a permanent offset to reference for math, calibrate yearly/monthly/whenever as needed

You could probably get away without the movement and just do the math, but I would for consistencies sake.

Pixel to commanded motion, whether in actual steps or through the machine interface in units, isn't too hard. We use a glass coupon etched with known circles. You can probably get these from Edmunds Optics or the usual suspects.

Take your known circle, let's say .050, we measure it on some magnification and the bounding box is 10x10. So we know that our pixel width is .005x.005. For a commanded move, you just convert and send the axis that far. This goes in another reference table somewhere, we have variable objective lenses so there are multiple calibrations selectable.

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thanks bro, this really helps. I am an EE fag so even basic metrology stuff (that is not electrical) looks like dark magic to me.
I have at my disposal a lathe, a mill, a shaper, a surface grinder, a reciprocating machine saw and a bench grinder with no rests
There are no DROs, dividing heads, micrometers, they don't even have reamers just a bunch of drill bits, blunt endmills and brazed carbide lathe tooling. I started bringing my own tools at work and the owner made me buy some of them for the company, like a dial indicator and a big 500mm caliper. The old toolmaker tooled up the factory with this shit and he barely knows how to use a dial indicator

If I want to store 10-20 kilowatts or more excess energy, what would be the best way of doing so?

Easiest one would be a huge-ass plumbum-sulphuric acid battery like in a car but the size of a small room. A bit unconventional, but costs a thousand bucks instead of 20.000 when you buy LiFePo-shit for something like solar panels.

What else? Is pumping water up somewhere worth the effort?
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>exhange dollars for thousands of pennies.
>Sand off copper on one side to expose zinc, leave copper on other side
>stack them copper side to zinc side with wet paper between
Cheap single use battery stack
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lead acid battery rooms are fairly common in big time installations
Nobody does what I described? People build LiFePo4 battery banks all the time.
Telco battery banks last a long time because they're designed for deep discharge/longevity with massive cells and thick plates, and they're only cycled when the power goes out. If you cycle lead acid batteries every day, they're not going to last 10 years. You might get 5 or 6.
Also, OP is clearly inexperienced and is trying to put something together for low cost. Those massive battery banks require a bit of knowledge and building infrastructure to do right: ventilation to prevent gas buildup, adsorption/float charging cycles, etc.

I'm not saying they're impossible. I have a 700 Ah battery bank made from old datacenter UPS batteries which powers my workshop, but if someone is trying to build something that will last and power their home, LiFePo4 is the way to go.

Yep, we have one at work. Racks and racks of -48V equipment. Wouldn't really recommend that someone build one in their basement if they don't know much about lead acid batteries.
>t. Alessandro Volta

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Did I do it right?
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Oh sorry my bad for not realizing you're american living in styrofoam shed with cartoon reinforcement
Hi! Is this Steve?
We had a fun time at JPL, you folks are amazing, real special people
Careful with these, before you know it, you'll be managing more than cables, if you know what they mean
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Better job than me I guess.
oh shit

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what uses could have glow in the dark chalk mixed with graphene? i was thinking some fullmetal alchemist shit and came up with this idea i hope someone find it useful lol
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>$69 from every taxpayer
Exactly, chump change
You're a child, aren't you?
0.1% of the median salary is chump change, yes
>But what about poor people
They barely pay tax
Perhaps you're the child if anything over $10 is big money
that's hot af
>0.1% of the median salary is chump change, yes

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me hab 40 acres own land. me 24 year old. me hate modern world. me want escape to trees, live life peaceful away from darkskin tribe and hooknose tribe. what do? where me start? how me build cabin? me no have wood work skill. me need learn. me need guidance from spirit people on magic slant eye cartoon website.
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I sincerely doubt that you're over 18 years of age.
It has more to do with starting a conversation which other anons might also be interested in, whether the OP was serious or not.

If you never answer any questions, if you never let a thread get started or other anons engaged, no decent discussion would ever happen.
The best discourse on this board usually comes from when OP is stupid, or after OPs question is actually answered and other people chime in and veer the thread away from him.
>chop wood
>shape wood
>place wood
i think i'm getting the hang of this
Go innawoods out west with a saw and lay logs in a triangle and add supports... it takes several weeks but easier with a friend

I got a old porter cable fc350. The rebuild kits cost almost 100$. The parts are pretty scarce, it blew a seal after having issues with the trigger. I'd probably have to rebuild both the trigger and replace all the seals.
Are my options only to pay the ridiculous cost for the rings and parts or retire it and buy a new one?

It's bout 20 years old.
What y'all think?
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if you're going to include the cost of a compressor with the air nailer, you need to include the cost of a couple batteries with the battery powered one. so add another $100+ onto the milwaukee.
I can't quite tell the cross section but there are many seal types besides rings so I'd blow up that image and measure the rod OD and the seal mount bore ID etc then contact support at seal suppliers giving them maximum detail on what you're needing since that may be useful in ways you don't anticipate.
I rather just retire it if I gotta do all that. Was hoping I overlooked something, but it seems more trouble than it's worth.
I have the same gun. This thing is a tank. It's build 100 houses and will build 100 more before it's scrapped. The home gamers in here saying to buy a battery powered nailer are so full of shit. This gun can nail down a 4x8' piece of sheeting before one of those ballless battery powered wonders can spit out two unset nails.

Take it apart and find what's wrong. 90% of the orings you can find in a 5$ oring kit. The bigger ones you can order off ebay for coffee money. No need to get a full kit. It's probably one 15c oring. If it's something more find the parts diagram online and buy just the piece you need. Shipping will probably cost more than the part.
This i got 2 broken Hitachi nr83a2 nailers for $280, 1 had a bad seal, cost 5 bux for an authentic Hitachi replacment, the other one had to be tore down cleaned and reassembled.

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Did you have a cool handicraft teacher when you were in school?
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>Did you have a cool handicraft teacher when you were in school?
Shop Teacher was Mr. Chism. he kept a sharps breach loading rifle next to his desk. let people bring in guns to work on. Taught gun safety as well as wood working.
Getting in early to protect his job, many such cases.
we had these big wood topped desk/workbenches that sat like 10 people. A common prank was to take someones notebook, flip it open a few pages, drive a nail through it into the desk, then close it back up. teacher never gave a shit unless it was blatant. that was a fun class, some good stories with all the derelict kids in there
Isn't it a troll where the guys was dropping red pills in his class and was anti-woke shit. So he is doing this now to show how absurd and stupid the whole thing is? Probably hoping he was going to get fired over it and sue for discrimination

I'm the tire guy from earlier, had two flats at once. I changed the rear one out with a spare and planned on going a few miles to the store after inflating the other. As soon as I pull out I hear a loud squeak coming from the back wheel once every rotation of the wheel. I should note that as I was changing the wheel, when I had it up and rotated the wheel it made a grinding rusty sound for part of it, and also one of the 5 screws coming out that secured the wheel was quite loose. I also horse kicked it about 1000 times to get it off, and when I first discovered the flat I drove about 10 feet on it which mighta been bad for the ol wheel. Is it safe to drive 5 miles to repair? If not wtf to do, tow it? I plan on trading it soon anyway I'd probably just tow it to a dealer
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Too dumb and homeless, not worth the stress and fucking up.
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They are really rare and even when I find a bad one I have plenty if rubber to take the blow(ask your mom)
All countries have potholes, dumb dumb. Two flats at once is either incredibly bad luck or somebody fucked your shit up.
lmao. you pissed someone off.
>also one of the 5 screws coming out that secured the wheel was quite loose
Those bolts shouldn't come loose on their own. Something could be wrong with your wheel hub, it's not your tire. If it's loose then dirt and shit could have gotten in there, contributing to that noise. You're not in any position to do work on it yourself since you described them as "5 screws", I wouldn't trust you with changing a fuse, it's actually that amazing you were able to change a tire. Tow it to the dealer and you will get your naïve, little boy assraped right in the lot with everyone watching because the dealer knows you will accept anything they offer you (the alternative is you paying again to get it towed off the lot - they will laugh at you while you embarrassingly call the tow truck again like it's your mom coming to pick you up from the movie theatre because they wouldn't let you in to watch an R rated movie). Probably safe to drive to a shop if it's only 5 miles and you go slow. I'd make sure that stud is tightened if you can access it and tighten it, but if not there's 4 other ones to hold the wheel in place while you get there.

I fucked up somehow trying to install a dimmer.

>turn breaker off
>remove old on/off switch
>install new dimmer switch
>stays on for 10-15 seconds
>turns off
>breaker flipped and will no longer stay on
>flipper (double black) wires on dimmer to opposite (red/black) in wall maybe I had them wrong
>nothing changes
>remove dimmer and put back on old switch
>nothing happens
>remove the light switch period
>nothing happens, breaker still flips back to off instantly

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wait are you saying OP was stupid enough to try to turn the breaker back on while it was still in the tripped position, not knowing you have to push it all the way back off to reset it?

say it aint so! come on you know the people who post on this mongolian origami papercraft forum are the smartest and brightest minds to grace the internet! surely OP isnt in the lower class of retarded fucksticks who never used a breaker before!

Checked trips of truth

Op can't even change a switch ngmi
I wouldn't trust you with html or a 15 minute comedy set. Stay in your lane.
I've been on many service calls where the problem was exactly that. You jest but the stupidity is all too real. Oh well, I still get paid in the end.
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Lutron sells 3 way (and more, up to 9way) switches, but they're generally stateless, like Maestro or Sunnata switches.
You buy one "real" switch and then the rest as "accessory" switches, which are slightly cheaper.

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