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File: signet ring upscale.jpg (108 KB, 1080x1080)
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I'm thinking about doing my own signet ring but I've run into a problem... I've never done any type of engraving, etching, etc. nor do I have the tools needed for it. The ring is gonna be made out of Sterling Silver (925).

So here am I looking for ideas on how to approach this project. Any ideas are welcome
Forgot to say but to start I want to engrave/etch just initials or something. Nothing complicated
ask a dentist

what kind of tools do you use so consistently that almost anything else feels "wrong"?

I've been painting houses at least part-time for the majority of my (young) working life, and I swear there literally is not a single brush in America that's better to work with than a three-inch Purdy Nylox black-bristle "Nylo-Scoter". Some people like the oval one I guess, I like the classic box-ferrule. Other than maybe a 2.5 inch angled trim brush, there's almost nothing else worth buying. Not for most latex or acrylic materials, chip brushes for oil-based primers.
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another one for hamilton
Hamilton does make some good kit.
Their filling knives are nice and flexible and don't rust like the dulux ones.
Are those the ones that stink like shit for no reason after a while?
yeah, not for no reason though. if you clean them after use and don't store them in an airtight container they'll be fine.
For me, it’s the Klein lineman’s pliers. My friend bought some meme lineman’s (vampliers) but I could actually tell the difference in weight. The japamemes pliers are lighter.

Hello /diy/, I am trying to remove glue/residue from a concrete floor. One of the standard methods is to use boiling water and a razor scraper.

As you can see, the top layer of concrete is coming off, revealing a very rough and crumbly layer underneath.

I also tried it with a solvent (nasty toxic stuff that I would not recommend) and the same thing happened, so if anything, I am going to stick to boiling water.

I also used a concrete grinder elsewhere in the house but I kept breaking through to crumbly concrete below. Everyone in these DIY videos doesn't seem to have this problem breaking through to crumbly concrete underneath.

The floor I am working on now has floor heating, so I am worried about a concrete grinder being too rough. Not sure if that is an issue.

Basically, does anyone have any suggestions about how to proceed? A belt sander?

If there is no way to avoid exposing this layer of crumbly concrete underneath, will it be a real pain in the ass to prime and put a new layer of concrete over?
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You could swap cork for foam underlay that will seal in any odour, leave that shit alone.
That glue is evil. I've tried to remove carpet from our warehouse stuck down with it. It doesn't come off, it just brings up the top most layer of concrete. To be fair I think that is why they used to use it, they pour it out and roller it around thick as fuck and then stick down the carpet and you've got a durable layer that seals the concrete and holds everything together if it wasn't great to begin with. I had an electric floor scraper (removed the upper layer of concrete, got blunt real quick). A thin scraper on a bar called something stupid like 'da rekka' which didn't do much except give me blisters and a propane torch (smelled like cancers and dying brain cells). The carpet is still there. I think it is down in part to the way floors are finished. You let the fines rise to the surface and then skim it smooth meaning the top layer is pretty much just dust/fine cement. Either that or you pour 'self levelling compound' which as far as I can tell 99% of this country is built of and is just really fine cement with a latex/acrylic bonding agent. This chips up in dusty layers about 2mm.
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I used TSP.
Thanks, god damn evil stuff. I'm definitely not going to torch it. I have no desire to inhale any of that crap.
I'll think about this, but we already have the cork. I am thinking about trying some kind sealant like primer. Perhaps it's a really bad idea. I also know this primer stuff is 60% solvent, so it's not like i want to breathe in that stuff as it turns into fine particles over the years. Perhaps it will simply be sealed in by the wood flooring, but I am not totally sure.

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Anyone build guitars? I'm trying to get into by putting together a SSO (strat shaped object) with some decent items. Nice maple neck, the body is poplar I think because it feels light, but it's suprisingly loud. I'm in the camp that it's all pickups with electrics anyway. tl;dr im using good electronics, tuners, bridge, etc
But I'm having a serious problem with intonation on this one. I measured tits perfect from the nut to the saddle 25-1/2" (12.75" from apex of 12th too) and the fucking strings will not intonate at any saddle position or action height. I even plugged the holes and moved the bridge once entirely to retry, still won't intonate. Not sure what the problem is.
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How the actual fuck did a single letter become a meme?
almost finished my jazzmaster build, with some compromises though. only thing I really have to do is file the nut slots which is going to be a pain because I've never done it before and I don't have nut files yet
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Cedar top
so I guess I should pay for the good kind of files? people say the $5 nut files are actually acetylene torch cleaners or something and don't work well
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What's a good way to amplify a guitar with nylon strings? I bought pic related hoping it'd have less feedback than a mic'd up classical guitar, but it turns out the pickup is a noisy piece of shit and the bridge is so fucked you can't set the intonation even with a file.

I'm thinking of carving up a new, solid body for it, but I don't know what kind of pickup to go for and I also want something where I can actually get the intonation right on the money. Would one of those piezo bridges meant for electric guitars work? I imagine the singal would be a lot weaker, but maybe the right preamp could fix it?

In 100 years from now are still going to have the same old buildings from like 1929 and the late 1800s around?

How long do they last? Seems like people just keep the same apartment buildings forever.
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The wood stays dry. Dry wood doesn't rot the way that wet wood does.
Depends on the ground theyre build on. Most older prewar buildings have no Concrete Foundation and can sink over the centuiries if the ground is mostly soft without rock.
I bought a farm house built in 1845. The foundation is hand dug/rock and fucking perfect. There is like one floor joist that needs to be replaced as it's gone soft but that's not bad considering the age.
Based. Fucking traitors
I would guess that it's gone through dozens of renovations over the years. I would be really skeptical if that was the original timber. Even stuff that's really well-maintained will warp over time.

File: wheeliebinshed.jpg (171 KB, 1847x727)
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>On wheels

Why aren't YOU using a wheelie bin for garden storage?
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You are not thinking big enough. Just make one into your home.

You can even have a deck on top.
as someone with back problems, ill just wheel it out my cuckshed thanks
>storing your belongings in a trash bin
do yuropoors really
Imagine actually storing a lawnmower inside a wheelie bin.
I store my compost in them. Once it has been through the bays I put it through sieves and put the fine stuff into a bin for potting/seed starting and the course stuff into another bin for general use. I like to leave them in the sun for a couple of years to get red hot as an additional sterilisation step too. It isn't easy to get the last bits out so I kick them over and use a shovel.

The market has spoken, why would you buy anything but Milwaukee?

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>skip ryobi
Yes, he is lol. He annoys the shit outta everybody with shit threads on /o/ too.
Patiently waiting...
Milwaukee dumps money into specialty tools unlike other brands. Unlike selling made in America, they sell innovation.

Makita is good, but not nearly as nimble.
I've dropped my Milwaukee Impact and Drill from 30 feet up on a scissor lift. The impact survived 2 drops, the drill did not. The drill broke at the handle.

I own Kobalt at home.

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My ogre of a boss leaned to hard on the arm rest of pic related, and it broke and promptly threw him to the floor. Fast forward, I have this chair in my living room and I'd like to fix it as opposed to throwing it away, because it's a pretty nice chair, at least compared to the other beat up ones I've got. How would /diy/ replace that silver arm rest? It's plastic, and I've tried resins and jb weld to make it stick back together, even ran some pins into it, that route isn't working.

FWIW chair is "Ergonomic Office Chair Desk Chair Computer Chair with Lumbar Support Arms Executive Rolling Swivel PU Leather Task Chair for Women Adults, Black" on amazon. People who buy the chair legit have a hard enough time getting replacement parts, so I don't think trying that would get me anywhere.
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Enjoy your ugly flaking piece of garbage op.
An easy solution: do not fix it.
Replace it with a part you make out of wood. 7 or 11 ply cabinet grade plywood cut to shape. Strong and can find cheap at cabinet shop as scrap.
>Did it himself
>Not DIY
Do you even into reading comprehension
>fix it
Kek the fake leather will peel and be disgusting, I wouldn't be surprised if the cushion doesn't die in a year.
JB marine weld.

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I have litte to no experience with soldering electronics, I want to work up to build a 12 channel tube mixing console one day. What steps do I need to take to ensure my chances of success?
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>I want to work up to build a 12 channel tube mixing console one day
Well soldering isnt your problem, learning electronic engineering is.

You have zero chances of success if you have to ask 4chan on where to start. But for you heres a tip: look into hobby kits, picrel. Learning by reproducing other peoples work is by far the quickest way to get your feet wet.
12 channels isn't enough to be worth the effort, and if you aren't good enough with the electronics end of it, it's going to sound like shit.

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Any tips on some cool variations of lamps i.e. portable and/or battery-powered? I am lacking lighting in various parts of my house with beds and desks and want something more than a traditional lamp. Willing to put some of these many many rechargable batteries I have to good use.
not a diy-er but led strips are cool if used creatively
Your average LED lightbulb is 7-8W (for the stuff that goes in the regular sockets). A 5000mAh battery at 5V is 25W (probably less in reality). So you are looking at sub 4 hour lifetime for something like that. Wouldn't recommend. Seconding LED strips though

We need to buy an A/C. The guy giving us the quote offered to install a heat pump system at the same time. We have oil heat, and he said a heat pump is more efficient at warmer temperatures.

Red pill me on heat pumps. Are they worth it? Sounds like eco stuff, which I have come to believe just means "isnt powerful enough" and "doesnt work".
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I've never heard of a fridge/freezer/AC/heat pump that uses atmospheric air as the working gas, but cool story.
Heatpumps are just AC running in reverse, so not realy much of a difference in therms of parts.
They can be insanely efficient and the additional cost shouldn't be that high.
Should save you some money over time as the running costs can be cheaper than oil heating.
They only suck at super low temperatures when it's far below freezing, here you should still use your oil heater because they get less efficient at these temperatures.

There isn't realy a good reason not to get a heatpump when installing an AC these days as it's essentialy just adding a few valves to your AC, wich gives you super cheap heating for most of the year.
You think insulation won't affect financial efficiency? Try heating a home in 30 degree F outside weather with zero insulation. Let's see a math formula show what the heating costs would be for having your heating running on maximum 24/7.
OP here

We got a quote from the installation guy that it would be $7k for the A/C and $9k for an A/C + heat pump.
where does the idea that a heat pump is just an AC with a valve that reverses flow of refrigerant come from?
a quick google search will quickly inform you there are many more parts on a heat pump vs. an AC

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You can immediately see my conundrum here. One wall of my shower is tile with a window. The window has painted wood around it with a regular cheap set of blinds, the property management has decided to install a shower curtain to protect it. I don't like this set up for two reasons: there are two shower curtains, one on each side of me, and it looks terrible.

My ideal solution:

1. Cover the window with as little material as possible (as in, I only cover the window, not the entire tile wall and the window like the shower curtain is doing right now)

2. Covering is easily removable, because I want to be able to access the blinds and open them, so I can shower on a nice sunny day and enjoy the full sunlight, but have privacy during the night so people can't look in and see me.

3. The solution can't be permanent or cause damage upon removal when I vacate the apartment, but the solution still must be robust enough to protect the wood from water damage.

What would you do? Right now I am thinking of using plexiglass in 2 pieces. 1 piece is a large rectangle that will cover the window, this piece will connect via hinges to a smaller piece of plexiglass (or other material) that I will secure to the tile wall using adhesive. That way, I can swing the larger piece away to access the blinds, and swing it back to cover up the window when desired. This sounds ok but I'm not sure how I would actually get the hinges to work.
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its the natural animal nesting instinct combined with weak minded people who would rather pay another mans mortgage and be told what to do.

desu though, landlords can get fucked especially for trying to peddle bullshit like in OPs example. But then again OP is also retarded for signing the lease with the dumb fuck bathroom problem. Seriously the guy who owns that unit and considers the curtains and shades a fix shouldn't be allowed to rent property to anyone. what the fuck is wrong with this world and why does nobody care to change it eh?
Any solution is probably going to cost a few bucks, not a big deal

A lot of places it is too expensive to purchase a home, renting is fine in your early years
Does the bathroom have an exhaust fan? If not, that window is there for ventilation. Why not use it as intended?
Ok now I’m arroused.
Change it from frosted glass to clear so you can flash your cock at the neighbours.

So I got some HID projector headlights with led halos for my motorcycle. I wire everything up and go for a ride. When I come back only one of the LED halos is working now. I checked all connections and plugged the power from the other side in and it works so I ruled out the bulb and connections.

That leaves me with this thing right here? I cannot find jack shit on it. From what I was able to find it is a power inverter but that doesn't seem right. I don't want to dissect it because then I'll have bare wires until it's replaced. Does anyone know what this piece is or any ideas? It runs from the LED to a switch to the power source. All I can find is ccfl inverters but that is different from LED.

Once again I just need a point in the right direction because I am not getting anywhere with the current search terms I'm using. Thank you
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Also, if to don't even have an idea of what you're looking at, you really have no prayer of debugging it or reworking it.
With a multimeter set to DC current measure the output current on either wire between the good driver and LED load. If your meter is not autoranging, start with the 1A range. Also, if you have a digital meter the lead polarity is not important for this particular measurement. You will then know what current replacement driver to look for.
Absolutely based. Thank you for the help, my thread on /g/ just said the same thing too. Finally got it all figured out.

Dubs of if that ain't the damn truth.
Look for an LDO driver to give you a stable power supply, use this as the main for your sub sircuit. You will need a 3rd order filter on the low voltage side going electrolytic cap, inductor, ceramic cap.

Build a variable pwm circuit using a 555 and potentiometer. The 555 output should go to a high current npn transistor or n channel mosfet.

Put the led bulb in series with the output of the ldo. Plug the transistor into the source the. Ground the drain.

Increase the pwm duty cycle until you get the desired brightness and current.
This thread aged like fine wine

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Thoughts on Ifixit?
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I got the same kit. The extra doohickeys in the kit actually came in handy occasionally.
You describe doing shit that can be done with precision screwdrivers from the dollar store. Of course you think it's the same quality.
Don't know.

I'll tell you after my Assembly Required episode airs :)
If you think ifixit are high end tools you're actually mental. The only reason to buy their tool over the Chinese kits is to support them because they are pushing right to repair laws. If you don't care about that their tools are as good as any.
>The only reason to buy their tool over the Chinese kits
Aren't iFixit kits made by chinks anyway?

Redpill me on laser measures for indoor use in the 200ft range. Do all of them use the same technology? Should I pay 2x-3x more for a Bosch?
What would be the difference between indoor and outdpor use?
i dunno, surface reflection in the sunlight is probably a factor, also no need for brighter LEDs indoors.
/diy is under the belief this garb is good for motion control or making point clouds of rooms for precutting floors with cncs. /pol would likely have a more useful opinion.

i use that shit in mine fields for cable lengths. bosch is rugged with warranty but same fucking specs. it just depends on your use case. they all work the same.
>in mine fields
A "mine field" as in Hi Ho or Boom Boom?
"hi ho" and "drill drill", the second being solution mining.

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