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I saw this thing in which a guy sits legs spread, and this rotating sheet of leather will keep hitting him on the balls.
how could i make something like this?i only have a drill, a hammer. and some bits.
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Nothing about that men can't grow some balls though.
You can also just inject saline right into your sack. Inflating the testicles themselves would almost certainly permanently damage them.
Try torsioning your testes. They swell nicely and if they don't necrotize you can savor the pain. If they do, band them and they'll drop off. Then you can pursue nullification.
>rėddìt cope solution mixed with fear
reminds me of the femoid we helped make a dildo vibrator chair for and she acc posted booba

Hello frens. I was recently subject to one too many Jewish tricks and subsequently put a hole through my door in a brief lapse of judgement.

Looking for some insight on how I might be able to repair this. Should I just buy a new door?
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Nta but when I was a hyper poorfag, ReStore is the only reason my house didn't fall apart. Contractors and residential jobbers usually just dump all their extra shit there after they're done with a job for a tax write-off and its usually cheap as fuck. Someone had dropped off a whole pallet of tiles and I redid my entire kitchen for like 1/4 of the price I could anywhere else, and most of my house was furnished with second hand shit from there. Some ReStores are better than others, but they're awesome when you get a good one.
>Door made of literal cardboard
Was that one of the tricks in question?
one time at the local one here someone dropped off a whole recording studio, rack effects, amps, drumsets, huge monitors, 32 channel desk
shoulda bought it
made me giggle
Just put a poster over it on both sides. For bonus points, an old kung fu movie.

Fuzzy bathmat edition.
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>fetuses and unborn children
can these be mutually exclusive?
No some fetuses zare born
Jfc faggot calm down
I wish they sent us those anymore instead it's just shit they nailed together that usually don't fit the racks

Brand new ones make good project wood so its not all bad
some unborn children do not identify as fetuses, check your privelege shitlord.

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any contractors on here? what would u do in this situation?

the roofing contractor i am working with did this. the shingles are completely mismatched with the flat areas. he says they don't make the flat sheets in the same color as the shingles. that's fine, but when he asked me to pick out a shingle color, and i did, WHY didn't he tell me it will not match the flat sheets?

if i want it redone, am i liable to pay again for new shingles and labor? should i have confirmed they match colors before they began the work? was it not right of me to assume that once i picked a color it would be for the whole roof?

he also says they can't paint the flat areas to match the shingles, but looking at google, it says that roofs can be painted.

what should i do? any feedback is apprecited.
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>any contractors on here
No. It goes against their nature so much to tell the truth, that they struggle with the "I am not a robot" part of most captchas.
I believe that OP has already explained the situation. Contractor guy asked OP what color he wants the shingles. He says two-tone gray. Contractor goes around and installs the roof, and then he comes to hand the invoice in and OP goes "wait, the flat part is not done yet". Contractor guy takes a glance and says "well yeah, it looks done". "How come it's not the same color?" "Well, there's a simple answer: they didn't have it in stock"
Hey OP, instead of samefagging with bizarre nonsensical replies, go ahead and post which roll of modified bitumen roof EXACTLY matches the shingles you picked out. Also, I want to see the price of the product he used. You know, to see the price difference between what he used and what you are demanding him to use. This is stuff that would actually help you in a court case. More of that and less of :
>durr hurr cuh-stumm-merr iz alwaze rite shawddy prawdukt bikuz he not mind reeder
Also, you have a poor people flat roof. Saying the contractor lives in a trailer just means he's probably your neighbor.
i feel so sorry for every single one of your customers
>i feel so sorry for every single one of your customers
I feel so sorry for each of your victims. Did you find the imaginary product that contractor was supposed to use? No? Wow. How do you know he did a good job if you don't acknowledge what is real and what is not?

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Post products and companies that you'll never use or trust ever again.
Bought 2 containers of flex seal from Lowes, one was completely solid and the other was about 60% solid.
Terrible scam product.
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Not him, but in so doing, the CEO admits to being a capitulating homo
>that's when it ceases to be law.
a) laws are created by legislation that is signed into law by a legislative body, the vax mandates and administrative orders that restricted doctors were not created that way

b) even when they are created by legislation, laws that are deemed unconstitutional do not have any legitimate force of law at any point in their existence, they can't- and the fact that they are declared unconstitutional when challenged proves it.

It's not like it *only* becomes unconstitutional after that ruling is made.
Correction, meant to say

laws are created by legislation created by a legislative body, that is signed into law by an executive (like a governor or president)
I got the putty stuff in a jar.
If I need to spray plastic goop I just get spray undercoating.
Just say you want all companies to undermine the national government, Che.

Traditional houses used diagonal boards for sheathing walls, from my understanding it used to be 1x boards. I too want to sheath a small cabin in the same pattern - however it appears 1x boards are not a thing at most lumber stores (HD / Lowes) and most are softwood for appearance boards. 2x boards such as 2 x 8 are actually cheaper then 1x boards and plywood.

Any unforseen issues you may see if I sheathed a cabin with 2 x 8's? The wall studs will be 2 x 6 which I believe should be strong enough to hold the extra weight of 2 x 8 sheathing.
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Why would you use PT for sheathing?
oh sorry I didn't understand you appear to want to sheath the structure in fucking exotic walnut or something
Planks are not stronger per weight than ply in a sheathing application, and weight matters. You're going to end up with heavy walls that are much stronger in one direction than the perpendicular, and grow/shrink a fuckload with the environment. The modern soft pine you get in planks rots a lot faster than you might think too, and flat edged boards will pretty much immediately grow cracks big enough for a draft and insects so you'd have to sit there and cut tongue and groove into all that shit, turning dollars into barely useful light scrap and sawdust. You're not saving any money here and you're making the job dramatically harder for an inferior result.

Just use ply for fucks sake. And either stain and seal or paint it. Don't skimp on the edges.
They more often braced the studs.
You're a rich guy

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I like rocks, bricks, and stones. What are some good trades to get into for people who like to build with stone and rocks?
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I'm a (stone)mason in southern california, feel free to ask me anything
How difficult is it to get into?
How often do you get work?
Who typically hires you?
How much do you make from a job and how much do you make on a bad year?
>How difficult is it to get into?
If you're a white guy it would be sort of difficult because the trade is heavily dominated by mexicans at this point... but if you can find a white boomer masonry contractor who doesn't want to hire mexicans he'd probably be very keen to take you on, assuming you work hard and are smart enough to do basic shit like read a tape measure. Very rare for young people to want to go into this trade and it's rare to be able to find trustworthy helpers

>How often do you get work?
Throughout the year I would say I do 50% masonry work, 30% masonry related work (usually tile or concrete) and 20% other random shit like helping build wooden decks/pergolas etc.

It would be totally possible for me to be employed doing masonry 100% of the time but that would mean having to work for a bigger company and I'd likely be the only white guy on the crew so at the moment I just do my own small masonry jobs or help out other white masons that i know on their jobs or if there's no masonry work I do random carpentry things as I said.

>Who typically hires you?
Small masonry contractors will hire me at a day rate or it's through homeowners directly. I don't do any big commercial stuff. It's usually stuff like building a stone patio or steps or retaining walls. A few times throughout the year I'll work on big jobs for very wealthy clients which are usually pretty fun.

>How much do you make from a job and how much do you make on a bad year?
When i am working for a different contractor i make $320 per day or $40 an hour cash, if I'm doing my own jobs i usually try to make $500 a day

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>a letterbox i build recently

the pipes kinda ruin your excellent work. what do they do.
Apparently they are going to have some illuminated numbers for the street numbers. I did these other 3 columns too.

Most 'stonework' you see in california is built with reinforced concrete blocks and then faced with 1 - 2" thick stone. It's cheaper and also is able to withstand earthquakes apparently. So it's not actually real stonework but it looks nice all the same i guess. Sometimes I wish i could live in britain or some european country where the true stone masons still live.

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In live in an appartment block and the ceeling light in my hallway isn't metered. It seems to be connected to the building supply rather than my individual supply. So basically, free electrisity. I bought an adaptor plug like in the picture so now I can plug anything into it. Relaistically how much do you think I can pull from this without being detected or causing a fire?
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You would be amazed at the amount of stuff that was entirely useless when invented only to be made highly efficient by a later innovation. Your homework is to find 3 examples and bring them back here.
>60W bulb
60w of heat that is. You can run full beans on that circuit thru the edison socket, 15-20A whatever the breaker is.
>.t ran a compressor in a storage unit on one of those
yeah I read that book too, most of it was bullshit.
OP should just do it and measure the AC voltage at the extension cord while slowly adding more shit (amps) onto it. Stop when voltage drops to 114V AC.

Ideally the Porcelain socket is 25A, Nylon is 5A.
The problem is from the lack of strain relief when you're adding a cord and just shitty rando sockets. I've burned up a socket in the last year just doing 2 amps for christmas shit, and I've done 5 amps longterm that survived for basement lighting. Both setups would flicker/cutoff easily if you poked the cord.
> tesla free energy
Even if true, they’d charge for it and get more profits. Like cell phone plans, I get only 10 text messages per month in 2023 which were originally supposed to be free and zero-cost using an extra, unused 140 characters in the cell network data packets. The monitoring and accounting just to bill for them is the only cost. Sadly, it’s part of the canadian telecom kleptocracy.

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>I need to miter cut a few of these
>I tried using a chisel, unless it was a shit chisel it did not break cleanly or break in the correct location.
>I tried using a reciprocating saw with a masonry blade, this also did not work

What else can I try? I am at wits end, I spend a lot of money on this hardscaping and it looks terrible since I cannot get the edges correct.
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Linus was already insufferable. I can't believe they're giving that fat fuck almost equal air time
>can't believe
Did you step out of a time machine?
This is jew world now.
All demoralization.
All the time.
Maybe, or get a couple clamps and stick it to whatever. I don’t think diamond blades are prone to grabbing the work piece and throwing it the same way as wood saws because they’re basically grinding the whole time. There’s no big teeth like a framing blade to grab a chunk of brick and launch it,

It felt sketchy and I never even put a battery in the thing. The blade was like 1/3” off the trigger.
It's a big wet saw. Just run your hose on low and use a grinder with masonary wheel.
I use this for a lot compound cuts on rafters. Real carpenters know that the miter saw will cap out at obtuse deep angles.

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how the fuck are you meant to keep your shop from becoming a disaster?
today i was just looking around in my garage and it's a god damn hellscape. there's shit everywhere. shelves are full of shit. every flat surface has shit on it. i don't understand how you can have a tidy shop, but also know where everything is.
i tried to do bins. i had a rack of tubs with tools that i don't use very often, but i'd have to pull out like 4 different tubs and open them to see if the thing i'm looking for is inside, and then dig around to find the fucking thing and by that point i just find some other tool that will do the job good enough and use that instead.

there has to be a better way.
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>shuffling thru their shit music and weird cut scenes.

I made it to 1:22 in the first one. I think I deserve some sort of prize.
I watched them both. The 10 bullets one had some ok into in it, but nothing groundbreaking or even more than common sense really.
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I picked up a bread rack cheap off facebook marketplace the other day. With a bit of modification it should be able to hold 40 of those Harbor Freight organizer bins. The wider thinner ones like I used in here.

So you guys might keep an eye out for bread racks in your area.
Also bought a cheapo garage shelf off facespace. It has those teardrop holes in the uprights for the shelf supports to go into. Some of them are all bent to shit. I should have examined it more closely but oh well. Plan is to drill out the rivets and bolt the shelf brackets to some bed frame angle iron instead. Also the shelves themselves are particle board laminated with some hard plastic. The edges have come off but the top and bottom surfaces are fine. Shelf will be going in a dry area so moisture should not be a concern, but should i coat the edges of the shelf with paint or bedliner to protect the particle board? Also do they make that plastic laminated shelf material with a plywood core? That would be ideal over particle board i would think...
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the organization of your living and work spaces are a direct representation of the inner workings of your mind. if you attempt to adopt someone else's organizational methods then they will be out of sync with your mind and will not work. this is why when you 'tried to do bins' you were unable to adapt, your workflow regressed, and you ended up worse off. you will never be at harmony with your environment if you do this and you will feel like the deer in my picture. your only option when it comes to improving your organizational habits is to work on improving yourself physically, mentally, and spiritually, and your living/work spaces will naturally improve along with you.

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I run a small crop spraying business. I'm trying to automate the chemical mixing process. I have a 7' x 14' trailer and a 255-gallon water tank. The current system I have I use one pump to pump water from the IBC tote to a 60 gallon cone bottom inductor tank, pour chemical into graduates to make a 30 gallon batch, then pour into the tank. Then I have another pump to either recirculate the mixture or to send it out to my sprayer.

I have this idea for a system with hoppers that I can pour chemical into and then I input how much chem per gallon, like 8fl oz of chem per 2gallon of water, and then it pumps the solution & the water into the inductor. The goal is basically to always have exactly 10 gallons of mixed chemical ready to pump out at any time. Takes around 8 minutes for me to spray 10 gallons, so it can mix in the mean time

I have an idea for two approaches, both would likely require a programmable logic controller of some sort.
1. Have variable rate peristaltic pumps pumping solution out of the hoppers and out of the tote.
2. Have cheap pumps connected to the hoppers but use flowmeters and solenoid valves to shut off the flow once the transfer volume has been met. One issue here is wouldn't that deadhead the pump?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
So I do corn wheat and beans, so sometimes it's either just fungicide and water or sometimes its fungicide + water + foliar fertilizer and sometimes it's fungicide, fertilizer, drift retardant, and water. which gets to be a pain in the ass, especially if you're making a 30 gallon mix and the foliar fertilizer is like 1-2pints per acre.

In the future I plan on having one tote water, one tote foliar fertilizer, but we'll see. The farmers provide me the chem, typically in 2.5gal jugs so I'm thinking just 5 gallon hoppers would be sublime.
Definitely weak on the basics of programming micro-controllers, but I'm willing to brute force to achieve this task. So if I'm understanding correctly, use the arduino IDE to program the ESP32 with like total steps for the individual motors? Maybe? It looks like It would go Pump > Driver > ESP32? Then interface with ESP32 with a mobile app perhaps.

I was thinking get 3 of these pumps, two for moving water
Kamoer 3700ml/min KK25-ODM DIY High Flow Peristaltic Pump 24V

Then get maybe 4 or 5 of these
Kamoer 400-1300ml/min KKDD High Flow Peristaltic Pump 24V DC Motor Dosing Pump

And run those for my chemical additives. Do the whole thing in 24v too. How does it know how many steps to run for a goal volume transfused?

Example situation
6fl oz of fungicide per acre, so 3oz per gallon

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
More ESP32>driver>motor, and yeah, use the arduino IDE to program the esp.
If that's the $300 motor then you are vastly overpaying here. For water just use a simple cheapo pump of any kind and calibrate it either by time or with a flow sensor, I'm assuming you don't need high precision.
The smaller pumps are probably fine, but there are <$20 ones like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004240331933.html which would probably be fine for fucking around, you can always upgrade to the fancier one if the thing actually works.
Buy a bunch of DRV8825 drivers, they're cheap and decent, you'll probably fuck up one or two in the process, driver boards, either like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003166428228.html or grbl cnc shield and connect the esp with wires.
Steppers work on a wide voltage range, about 10-30V at least, it's more of a question of what the driver can accept. I'd recommend sticking to 12V since this is a low power project, not much benefit from 24V.
>How does it know how many steps to run for a goal volume transfused?
You measure it when setting up the device, it's going to be consistent. Do 100 steps, measure, do 500 steps, measure, do 5000 steps, measure, calculate the average. Same with the regular pump for water, except that will be detected pulses from the flow sensor, rather than steps.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003748611606.html flow sensor can be like this, hall effect so nothing in contact with the water inside.
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Here you go. At a going rate of $200/hr for a skilled engineer, you now owe me 50 bucks.

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Looking into putting together pic related from ikea. Bottom part has a weight limit of 110 lbs for the top surface. The top part should weigh about 69 lbs, for reference I’ll be using it for a bunch of records and other old hifi shit, the receiver I’ll be using by itself is about 40 pounds bc it’s from the 70’s but that will be going in the middle bottom hole of the top part. Do you guys think it will be able to support this much weight or will it probably be fine?
Think it’ll be too much?
You won't know until you try it. Maybe don't put anything too fragile in the top section to begin with.
Put it together and see how sturdy it seems. Remember it is just probably just particle board bullshit, because nobody makes anything worth a damn anymore...

Hey, does anyone know of any good DIY podcasts to listen to? I keep listening to video game ones at work, so that's all the really stays on my mind, and there's nothing productive there. I'm trying to stay on track to plan and build a small cabin on 12 acres I have, and I just worry if it's not on my mind more, I just won't get around to it.
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You can't do it with a podcast man wtf. The secrets of building a small cabin doesn't come out of your speakers, it comes out of a professional's mouth.
I quit my job, made some money, started welding at this dudes place for like 4 hours a day, just so i can get a job someday. Small money who cares, he asks me to help him build this cabin in his yard, im like ok man, i like wood. Thought it was going to be easy, pff what, you just nail it here nail it there and BAM, you have a cabin. nope. way worse then that. took us about a week to finish it after welding and stuff. felt good at the end and i learned from him and this other older dude how to build cabins. its not as easy as it looks.
you laugh, but the superior podcast/parasocial observation format is old white dudes who have seen a thing or two chatting quaintly.
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>DIY podcasts
Instead, you'd be better off listening to books that go into technical detail about interesting construction. Nothing is more diy motivational than listening to how some of the most incredible structures were made by people who still used candles for primary lighting.
A DIY podcast

So, with a steady hand I swung deliberately my 16 ounce claw hammer, striking the nail solidly with an orgasmic blow, repeatedly until the shaft was no longer visible....

Fuck off back to Rebdit. retard
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the dude just wants to get a comfy podcast, and every bitter motherfuck only shows up to hinder. don't change 4chan you salty fucking chodes

I bought a portable AC and it's giving me voltage drops every time the compressor starts. I know nothing about electricity, what can I do to prevent those? Should I connect the AC to a UPS?
>it's giving me voltage drops every time the compressor starts
It will do that. Why is it a problem?
Simplest solution is to plug AC into a different circuit than the thing that gets sad about undervolt. Just make sure to use an extension cord rated for 15A for added safety.
>Should I connect the AC to a UPS?
No. You should connect the thing that's sad about undervolts into the UPS.
so the compressor pulls energy from the system that runs it, hence why there's voltage drops at all. It's normal, and as long as the AC is working as it should be, then there's not much to do.
putting a substantial load >500w on the generator might be beneficial

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I put 2 cycle oil in my lawnmower while my lawnmower was fueled with Ethanol 85 gas. My mower won't start, when it does it sounds like it's coughing. Is my mower fucked or can I unfuck it?
22 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>Well that mower is a 12yo so it's not all bad.
That mower would have kept going if it was 12 years old. Thankfully these engines are pretty forgiveable to retards.
First, drain the crank case and refill it with the right oil.
Next, pull the rip cord a few times with the gas OFF. What you want to do is circulate the fresh oil around the crank case.
Drain the oil and refill it with fresh oil.
Now you can either
> get a fresh spark plug and try to start it.
> compression test it
Get a compression tester kit from harbor freight, remove the spark plug, screw in the tester, zero the gauge, and pull the cord.
Read the results. It should be somewhere between 60-100 psi (up to 120 if new).
I personally think you should take it to a repair shop and have then tell you if it is a total loss.
And unless you have an engine that requires two stroke fuel, I would get rid of that to avoid doing dumb again.

no stupid have you been even following along? he put 2 stroke oil in the crankcase instead of 4 stroke. goddamn why cant people read the whole fucking thread before replying and asking stupid shit thats been answered already.
which should not cause any particular problems
it's all oil after all
these motors aren't picky
Turns out my lawnmower has carborator and compression issues, got that taken care of and now it works fine. I will continue to use the oil and gas that I have always been faithful to.
Thanks guys.

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