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Just bought a house and the room where I would like to put the computers isn't grounded and I'd rather not have to destroy the wall to run grounding wire. Is there any kind of work around for this?
33 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
You're an idiot.
install a GFCI outlet on the first outlet in every circuit of the house. all the other ones can then be replaced with standard 3 prongs and still be up to code, so long as they are labeled as ungrounded
much ado about nothing
It's not really about being up to code, it's about what would protect my electonics
Unless there's something fucked with your electronics from the factory you're worrying about nothing. I live in a house built in 1958 with no safety ground (that's what it really is, it's to protect you), and I've had a succession of computers plugged in and working for over 20 years with no issues at all. I was literally jerking it online when Y2K flipped to 0:00. It's a lot of bullshit over a lot of nothing.

Anyone else like the look of an "unfinished" project? I like the look of exposed insulation panels, mechanical fixtures, and so on. Anyone know what to call this style? and does anyone have more of it?
13 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
I'm interested in this style for a cabin out somewhere remote.
I would pay good money to hear my guests' juicy shits echo across the house.
I find brutalist aesthetic now.
Smooth it down and put a coat of matte polyurethene over it and you have an awesome look
I can smell these images and it’s a great smell.

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I have never built one before and would like to stay under 50$ so I can buy/make gifts for everyone in my family. I heard about using Styrofoam and painting it with concrete, but im unsure if that would last very long. If that is a good trick to use, are those hot styrofoam cutters 100% needed?
How big of a fountain?
A small countertop/desk fountain. I think a foot long for its biggest dimension. I was thinking of maybe making it look kinda like a river.
I would start looking up those heron fountains. That would be the cheapest if you can get the geometry right

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I have a pair of old Sennheiser 500 headphones where the adjustable glide inside the top part just snapped in half. This has happened with another pair I didn't attempt to fix. Gorilla Glue and others say "join parts with a clamp for 24 hours" but I genuinely don't know how to clamp pieces along a length together, there's a slight curvature and obviously the clamp can't be on the join itself.
Googling did me no good so either I'm the world's biggest retard or this requires something a little more sophisticated to hold the two parts in place for me.
It's something obvious, isn't it?
9 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
they deserve a 3d printed replacement
You could hotmelt some clamping blocks on each side. I think reinforce across the break, maybe a internal dowel pin or wrapped in sticky fiber mesh drywall tape and squeeze epoxy filler in there.
Try some pipe cement, I guess. That shit cures fast as fuck, and in the meantime you could cut notches in a chunk of wood at the right angles to hold it in place.
The answer is always duct tape
except when you need a solid adhesion

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I'm upsizing my garage mini split AC from 9k BTU (under 1 ton) to 30k BTU (2.5 tons). I want to use my existing romex in the wall which is 12-2. I'll just use the now neutral wire as the second leg powering the new unit, which is 220v, 1 phase

The unit I'm putting in, the site says, has a "rated current" at 12.5 amps in cooling. 13.5 amps in heating. "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" at 15. I'm not sure what this is.

I'll just replace the breaker to a 220v one, maybe 30 amps?

Would I be ok with using the existing 12-2 romex?
11 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>The unit I'm putting in, the site says, has a "rated current" at 12.5 amps in cooling. 13.5 amps in heating. "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" at 15.

Buy a 2 pole 15 amp breaker and put the existing 12-2 on it. Put black tape on the white wire
He needs a common unless he's gonna tape the ground but then he needs a ground.
There's a lot of bad info in this thread (and a lack of real info as well), but I offer this advice as someone who has wired a few houses and passed every inspection without a hiccup:
You need a breaker of 15 amps or 20. 15 amps should be enough for your unit according the manufacturers specification (and assuming that there is no other load on that circuit), thats the "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" that they list.
Most of the time when you find 12 gauge wire in a house, it's on a 20 amp breaker. 20 amps is the best choice for this circuit. DO NOT USE A BREAKER LARGER THAN 20 AMPS WITH 12 GAUGE WIRE. It's a safety hazard in normal household use to do so.

You must also check to see if you require a neutral (white) wire for this unit to operate. Most of the mini splits that I have installed required only the 240v hot wires and a ground. No neutral.

But some of the modern units need all 4 wires, so be sure to check the manual.
Don’t blame me lol I told OP to check what size breaker he needed and to factor in voltage drop
He doesn't need a neutral if it's 220v only unit which it probably is.

He needs to double check the specs. "220v single phase" should be good with the 12-2 romex

If it says "220v single phase with neutral" or "220v single phase 4-wire" or "220/120v single phase" then he would need a 12-3 romex.

Now that I reread what he posted, he might need a 2 pole 20amp breaker. When the a/c unit arrives it should have a sticker on it saying what size breaker to use.
13.8 amps X 125% = 17.25 amps

I got a 2 inch hole and a 1.5 inch crack in my tub. They are well above the shower water level and I don’t take baths but they bug the shit out of me. I am not at all a handy man.

Should I just use something like flex seal tape or actual putty? I don’t plan on selling this home any time in the next decade so this is purely to sate the need to fill holes.
yeah im mean you could nigger the shit out of it with just about anything. seeing as how its just cosmetic.
>flex seal
Do not ever use this shit. It doesn't work and you'll have to spend hours chiseling it out of whatever you put it on.
Any decent brand of duck tape will work. The backing of duck tape is meant to repel water, and the adhesive is strong enough for long term use.
You could use tape. Alternatively, you could try a resin/fiberglass patch kit like they use for cars. That might work

Specially I am looking for a hand planer but wondering in general how these brands are. When porter cable dewalt makita etc all chinese shit anyway might as well not pay for name.
13 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Also, just an FYI, the Porter Cable and the Ryobi both hold 3 year warranties on those bandsaws, the Ryobi has an additional tension release that the others dont.
The harbor freight has a 90 day warranty, they are all around the same price.
Saw ryobi has 3 year warranty. Might gonwith them over the 40$ wen.
>real product designed and made by a real company
Because most of the shit comes from the same factories these days and designs can and will be copied and modified as they always have been. The only thing the west does well is over engineer and waste materials.
>90 day warranty
This is what I always say in the HF threads. I really dislike buying anything >$40 with electronics from them. Plus when you factor in the price of the 2-year replacement plan, the name brand often costs less. The $9 Drillmaster heat gun, I got my money out of it after 2 uses. The $120 8gal compressor will be the test, it’s the same one as HD sells under the Husky brand. I ran it pretty good the past couple months, and I’ll buy the North Star when I kill it.

HF also scrubs bad reviews from their website. I have seen it on my own reviews, they let a couple 1-3 star reviews go thru, but the reviews I posted never seem to show up if they’re <4 stars.

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I recently purchased a decent plot of timberland up in the UP of Michigan and I'm planning on building a camp (a dry cabin) there. I'm a big fan of really traditional building techniques and the log cabin I'm going to build is going to have a solid stone and mortar masonry foundation. For reasons of keeping the cabin a bit warmer, I would like to do a full foundation instead of piers that way I can insulate under the floorboards.

However, this creates a bit of a problem. The frost line depth in the area of the UP I'm building is 72". Because this is going to be a camp, I'm not required to build to any code, but at the same time I don't want my cabin to sink into the ground within a few seasons. Is it absolutely necessary to go the usual 12" below the frost line for the footings of the foundation? The amount of excavation, stone, and labor that would be required to build a solid stone foundation for a frost line this deep would be a massive undertaking, combined with the 18" above grade height to keep the logs dry that would be a solid 12x16' wall of stone over 8 feet high from top to bottom.

I find it hard to believe that the original pioneers in the northern part of the country went through that amount of effort. Since this isn't going to be a massive 2000 sq. ft. house, can I get away with just going down a few feet with the foundation? How likely is it going to be that the whole thing will sag and crumble within a decade or so?

Building a log cabin with a stone foundation, don't feel like digging down 7 feet and then building an 8 foot foundation. Can I get away with only going down 2-3 feet and have a reasonably sturdy structure?

pic related, the style of cabin I'm going for, obviously it's not going to be two stories or have all the embellishments though.
5 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Slab on grade
-vapor barrier
-4" rigid foam
I’m a geological engineer. The mechanism of foundation failure you’re worrying about is called “frost heave”. It’s ok if you have fast draining soils ie sands, and the groundwater table is deep even in seasonal times and you aren’t building in the drainage pathway of another area and you are vigilant of roof water runoff and your snow melts would slope away from structure.
I'm an executive chef at Wendy's making $16/hr., and I can tell you without a doubt that OP is only here hoping to hear the easy answer, so anything telling him that he'll have to put in actual work or money and he's going to get pissy again.
I didn't get pissy before, I was just pointing out that there are a lot of old log cabins that are still standing strong despite not having the best foundation out there. So there either must be some trick that they did or it must not matter that much to a log cabin. If I wanted to hear the easy answer I would just do slab on grade concrete, the fact that I'm building a solid masonry foundation from fieldstone gathered on my property is not easy, even if it was only a few feet high. But I do not have enough stone to do a solid 8 foot high foundation.
The soil up here is very sandy and gritty, which is why agriculture in the UP never really took off. There's shit tons of stone in the soil as well. As for the groundwater, I have yet to drill a well or even look into hiring someone yet, but neighbors in the area report that it's about 40 feet down. My property is varied a lot in terrain; a creek runs through the middle of my property which forms a nice flat flood plain with grasses, then it rises to a very wooded hill (goes from about 400 ft elevation at the creek to 560 feet within about a 100 yards) with lots of conifers and on the other side is a still relatively flat woods of mostly birch and maple.

I'm not a geologist or a forester, but I've heard that conifers like well-drained soils. I'm not sure what effect the creek and elevation changes have on the groundwater/soil composition, but I'd prefer to build somewhere on the high ground to avoid any chance of the creek flooding my cabin anytime soon.
To add to this, this structure doesn't have to last until the end of time. It's just going to be a hunting cabin that I'll stay in a few months out of the year. But this is actually something of a test run for me, I plan on buying some land out in the bush of Alaska in a few years and building my own cabin out there. But before I pay a bush pilot to drop me off in the middle of nowhere with nothing but an axe and a shovel, I want to get a lot more confident with the building skills I'll need. I'm sure I could easily just bury a couple 20 foot logs and use them as piers and the thing would be fine, but I would ultimately like to build my forever home with a solid stone foundation which is why I would really like to work on those skills now while I'm still within distance of civilization.

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Fag school or do they deliver on their promises?
>We'll help you find a job!
>Job gauranteed
>We'll retrain you in case the industry changes
I'm pretty sure it's just a scheme to get as many students as possible and not train a single one to be career ready in 2 years or less.
I've heard before that they create the most worthless students that a school could ever create.
Just had a chat with an admissions officer. They claim that these opinions came from "online trolls" and "students that were kicked out".
Pure bullshit school for a pure bullshit career. Don’t waste a single minute on becoming a mechanic. Find a unionized trade and start your apprenticeship.
There’s a major shortage of mechanics. Big companies are hiring anyone with a pulse and paying them to learn on the job. Some of these programs even gift you your full set of tools at graduation. DO NOT pay to become a mechanic in current year, THEY have to pay YOU.
How? People have been pushing trades since 2008. Are they really in this amount of demand still?
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Where do I go to find one of these?
Fleet maintenance is the ONLY way to make it as a mechanic. Like any business the money you make is based off the money the client has. If the client is a old lady with a corolla then you make little. If the client is a multi billion dollar construction company then you make a lot.

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3 ft of copper pipe 1/2 : 4.30 usd
4 tee fittings: 5 usd
6 end caps: 2.40 usd
2 bronze (leaded) 90s: 1.50 usd
2 copper 90s: 1.50 usd
15 usd total

Won't rust. Easy to clean with acid. Anti-bacterial.
Fuck china jew
35 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
>they'll never rust
Corrode then. Sorry in my language we use "rust" and "corrosion" interchangeably.
The problem with rusted iron is that it keeps rusting further and further under the rust until it eats everything away.
This does not happen with copper - the patina that forms on top protects the non-oxidized copper under it.
technically true, however it will tarnish and that tarnish is going to stain the fuck out of your towels.
Yes, but muriatic acid fixes it fast and easy. Compare that to steel.
Nah, it didn't. Because I'm using this thing for idk, 10 months no.

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I have an insulated hoodie from LLbeans that I just love,
The cuffs are getting worn out though.
Can these be replaced?
Would an alteration shop do this cheaply?
Would it be easy to do myself ? I have access to an old sewing machine but it seems tricky to work it.
61 replies and 9 images omitted. Click here to view.
>"elites", would buy shitloads of LL Bean stuff from thrift stores and return it for the full price.
why they would do this?
You dont like a nice brapski after a hard days work?
Why so? I remember trying to make a sleeping bag one and quilting the fill was a bit perplexing.

You could try getting flat batting, if that helps, but I don't know what your issue is or if that is proper.
Biggest problem is I don't know what I'm doing...just kinda winging it and went for it. It's also a silk lining, and I'm finding it difficult to work with.

I got it on though. Overall it fits pretty good, the collar is a little goofy but oh well. I'm casting some buttons for it right now then I'll be done.

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Mystery tool
What do you think this is for?
48 replies and 17 images omitted. Click here to view.
that's the point
that's what these are thanks
that's a murderer

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I need to strip 24AWG and 5AWG wires and cables.

What are some good strippers? I don't wanna get screwed by chinesium, I'd rather just get it right first try.

Should I just get one that does it all or two separate ones?
28 replies and 13 images omitted. Click here to view.
I use the vise grip ones for general
use and the shitty red ones for military splicing in tight spaces or on wires that are prone to breaking, like the 24 gauge wire toyota likes to use
for 8awg and up I just use a razor blade
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the mother of all strippers
I think you still have 6 through 1 AWG before you get to the oughts.
>source: 2017 NEC, Chapter 9 Table 8
what is this tool called. I have one from an electronics kit - I thought it was for cutting, not stripping.
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What are these red drill bits that carpenters all use? I've seen it in numerous videos now. Is it some particular brand?
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I've seen china bits in all sorts of colors. I don't think it's anything brand specific or special.
Some are colored to indicate it has been heat treated for impact use.
some brands are color coded for different sized shit, of course you should just be using square drive master race. and yes its painted white.
robertsons are colour coded. red is #2 (the middle size common in screws) greens are the smaller ones you find on receptacles (at least in canaderp, i imagine in the US screws are all either stars or stipes)
America can't into Robertson, they keep using Phillips and positive, kek. Also yeah #2 Robertson.

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I insulated and put up the gypsum plaster boards, but I forgot the humidity barrier foil.

Can I put it over the plasterboard?

Should I put it behidn the palsterboard in the last third I havent done yet, then ontop of the plasterboard for the other 2/3 ?

What do guise : I

Is it vital to put up the humidity barrier foil? Does it matter on what side of the plasterboard its on?
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
No I have a builder I need t know tonight if I should tell him to take down the sheets and put up a vapour sheet or not
Yes Anon, put the vapour sheet. If your builder forgot to do it, get them to fix it and then fire them immediately.
Depends on where your at. Here in the Pacific Northwest its not required as the primer on the sheetrock provides the needed barrier.
To add, you have to caulk the inside exterior wall bottom plates and adjoining corners.
To add, I just realized its a mobile home, BURN IT.

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