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Would something like this be useful in real life?

>The C.A.M.P. consists of a small olive drab chassis that, when deployed, sprouts metal supports and various workshop-related tools. Intended to be portable, it quickly folds into a toolbox-like form complete with sturdy handles.

>The rear post extends upward into a miniature drill press while a vice clamp swings out from the side. The top of the toolbox-like portion of the chassis folds out into two sections to reveal a small circular saw.
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I actually saw a couple of these shopsmith's. They we're built for Americans by American's. From what I could tell, it was a quality tool at it's peak.
They were well made but the design had flaws. Using two rods as the backbone of the unit was not ideal as they are not as stiff as a larger column (drill press) or a cast bed (lathe). It was also quite high for a table saw and the accessories were small. The early ones were very underpowered also.

The units also got more lightly built as time went on. They started making the castings thinner and weaker in the mid-50s or so and they only got worse from there. The motors did get better though. The introduction of the variable speed reverse drive motors was a big deal at the time. These days you'd just use PWM or something.
>variable speed reverse drive motors
Reeves drive. Fucking autocorrect.
They look fucking retarded and I have to talk my boomer dad out of buying one off craigslist all the time
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Now, you can woodturn in your neighbor's driveway, while they're at work, rather than making a big, fuck-off mess in your own garage.

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What is this growing on the leaves and how can i get rid of it?
It's hookworms. Take off the leaf and burn it.
Can that shit transfer to humans or dogs?
I think your plant has fallen victim to the larva of Agromyzidae. You should buy some parasitic wasp eggs or just pick infected leaves and burn them.
Leaf borers. Theres little bugs in there. Get rid of the leaf.
No it’s not. OP google leaf miner.

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DIY pool heaters. Is this legit?
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Be careful not to electrocute yourself

Weather Underground will just let any yahoo set up a station. It's in the sun
no, flyover states hate californians because they flee from the hell they created and then shit up everyone else's towns
His reading will be wrong on an IR gun, he's basically just taking sun heated surface temp at ground because they are black. It's either a joke or a retard.
aren't pools outdated?, like tub-shower combos

What’s the best budget way into welding? Say, under 300$ total? Just for more basic shit like picrel, nothing heavy duty
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I have seem people doing excellent work with TIG in thin metals. The body panels are steel or aluminum?
You're probably right about getting a 220v as well.
I was under the impression that TIG was harder to learn. The panels are steel, Jap steel is particularly known for rusting from what I've seen. I'd assume with the hobby-level work I'd be doing, a $200 bottle would last me some time right? My thought here is that I shouldn't consider that a continual expense, maybe annual at most. I'm still trying to wrap my mind around the cost of all this, I'm a cheap bastard unfortunately.
TIG is harder to learn for most. It also allows for a great amount of control but requires the use of both hands and your materials have to extremely clean.

I wouldn't get any tank smaller than 80cf. As a beginner, you'll be going through a good deal more gas. It's about 30" tall and 7" or so in diameter.
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Get some scrap
Run shitty beads
Mess with wire speed/heat
Run shitty beads
Watch Youtube
Run progressively less shitty beads over time

As a side note, I suck dick with FCAW, and I can never get decent beads out of the Lincoln I've got. Welding is like 50% muscle memory and experience, and 50% prep imho

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Hi guys,

I'm trying to repair my old PSP but I'm running into several problems: I can't find a replacement shell worth a damn and the right directional button sometimes activate itself on its own.

I replaced the circuit for the Dpad but the problem persists. What else can I do? I want to repair it out of nostalgia but I feel like it's going to be more difficult to find good spare parts rather than buying a new one (or not, I already have a hack PS Vita).
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damn, this reminds me of my old PSP I have gathering dust. it won't turn on anymore and won't charge. I had planned to mod it with a larger battery and possibly even hollow out the shell and turn it into an emulation machine using a raspberry pi, there have been several such builds posted online in various places. however, none of these can run PSP games well as the pi zero (the only one that fits in a shell) simply doesn't have the horsepower to run PSP games. so pi builds are limited to NES, SNES, game boy advance, etc.

more to the point, you could try the psp modding subreddit, they do some cool shit like add speakers where the UMD drive was, upgrade the battery for super long run times, and even implement wireless charging with a Qi mat. or buy one off ebay with a broken screen/won't run discs and harvest whatever parts you need.
Noise/bad ground or intermittent short. Case might be slightly deformed.
get a dirt cheap vita and use the built-in psp emu. there's even a hack for it. Vitas might have become more expensive recently after some hacks were published
post wallpaper
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You're lucky I hoard all of that old shit.



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new york city has pretty mild weather
it sounds so nice
i have a metal roof
Novia Black Pro Breather Membrane? yay or nay
Contractor PM fag in Colorado here. We do a shitload of standing seam because we have a NewTech panel machine and all the dies to go with it. We do mostly snap-lock, with a small amount of spec bid stuff for mechanically seamed. It's way fucking easier to make everything on site with the panel machine and a metal brake than ordering it pre-cut to length. We order the rolls of trim coil and flat sheets from Sheffield; coil for the machine, flat sheets for the drip/rake/headwall/sidewall. We usually run 26ga, sometimes 24ga. Generally speaking, it's the best all around roof. All fasteners are hidden underneath the panels, the underlayment used is way better quality, can be used for low-slope applications, and it's virtually impervious to weather barring giant hail that smacks a seam and unlocks the panel. R-panel or Max Rib isn't terrible, but the fasteners absolutely do back out and the neoprene washers have a finite life span. Cost for us isn't terribly different between the two. We can make money at 6.50-7.50 a SF
There are some downsides, however. >Snow and ice buildup comes off in giant fucking sheets without snow guards (we use S4)
>It can be noisy when it rains, but this can be mitigated with foam board over the underlayment
>Oil canning on the panels is 100% guaranteed and noticable as fuck with certain colors; this can be mitigated to some degree with backer rod
>It can be a bitch to make the seams symmetrical on the roof
>UV eats the Kynar coating alive. This is why there is a shitload of mill finish metal roofs in places like Texas because color coated panels fade like a bitch
>If anything ever goes wrong and a panel has to be removed, the whole fucking slope has to come off with it.
>Installers have to be on point. If they fuck something up, almost guaranteed they have to redo the whole slope (see above)
>It's slick as fuck and can be a death trap for tard homeowners that try to get on the roof to do stuff like clean gutters out
450-550 per SQ isn't a terrible price. It's my base price per SQ here. Material costs can be vastly different from region to region. I can buy OC laminates in Indy for 55-65 per SQ; in Colorado they are 85-90. 325 per SQ isn't going to get you a basic ass laminate shingle, like OC Oakridge/GAF Timberline/Certainteed Landmark. Also, the roofer is probably cutting corners like cutting 3-tabs for hip/ridge/starter, using actual felt paper (maybe some bottom of the barrel synthetic), reusing drip edge, reusing old shitty step and counter, and cheaping out on the vents by using plastic box vents or shitty roll ridge vent. Maybe even really putting the dick in by installing a shitbox shingle like IKO or Tamko. Probably getting 4-nails instead of 6.
Personally, I am not brand loyal across the board. I sell certain shingles across a few brands. Duration, for example, is the baddest motherfucker for wind resistance ever. I have legitimately seen Duration roofs that survived 7 hours150+ mph sustained winds with only a few missing shingles. But then you've got something like the old class 4 Duration Storm, which is supposed to be hail resistant but gets fucking destroyed because it's not SBS modified, just regular Duration shingles with a bullshit mat on the back instead Then there is something like Malarkey Legacy, which is the best hail resistant asphalt shingles in existence.
>Regular laminate - OC Duration or Malarkey Vista
>SBS modified class 4 - Malarkey Legacy or OC Duration Flex
>Shake-look multi-laminates - Certainteed Presidential TL or IR
>Random weird shit - GAF because they are the only ones that make the weird shit like Glenwood

I want a way of mass producing flush bricks of wood
What jig/tool would do this?
Preferably portable
I want to just build like in minecraft
>>T. Non boomer brainlet with limitless wood
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If you're smart about it you'd setup 2 or more shafts and rotate the piece as it conveys, using guides, cutting it into your desired, squared profile. Then figure out how to cut them to length.
Maybe if you watch YouTube instead of doing the Grandpa Simpson bit on 4chan, you'd learn something. Try a sawmill video. YouTube can be your friend.

I don't agree with your notion that those bricks are superior for much more than decoration, or at the very least, specific applications that don't require alot of force, and that's if the material is properly prepared. Look up how laminate beams are made and what they are used for and you'll see how dumb it is to use wood bricks for structural members like roofs or even walls. The floor thing doesn't make much sense either but it really depends on the economics of it. I'd never pay for it. Quite frankly in a house or cottage, that to me would be a hazard. And besides compression, those little bricks aren't good for shit if cut like your OP. One screw and it splits, should you choose the wrong side. The op pic is retarded. The bricks should of been cut a different way.

I really recommend you go watch some vids on how lumber is made before you make your own. Even the notion that you wish to seal this wet material, in epoxy no less, before drying it shows you're woefully unprepared for this. From studying this process you can develop your own system to achieve your dreams, but I assure you it will be modified from what you described. Failure is a great teacher. Structural failure is usually unforgiving.

When you show up as you did in your OP, you only poured chum in the water. Go watch some videos and come back with intelligent questions or you're just gonna get fucked with.
When it comes to their strength... well the glue/epoxy is connecting endgrain to endgrain and the fibres are facing the way nature intended UP the glue acts as it’s sealant and keeps it compressed like growth rings in a tree
They used to floor machine part factories with this style of wood I’m pretty sure my 7x10 cabin isn’t nearly as heavy as equipment and stock
that’s not taking into consideration that the weight is only what is above it shared with its neighbour ect ect
The same thing that gives brickwork it’s strength is at work here the structure is just placed on the foundation Just like brickwork
I’m up against two things bucking the status quo and missing “work experience”
I don’t know the names of shit so everything’s a rabbit hole
This thread jumped me ahead a month of YouTubing
a penis blade
Nice try schlomo you ain’t getting any more of my cock
A miter saw with a jig could do this job for you efficiently.
I cannot believe that google couldn't help you answer this question.

I'm wanting to make a realistic looking skull from this model I pepped earlier.
The aim is for it to look somewhat like the next image, and for it to become a feature in my garden.

Can you advise me on which techniques and materials would work best for this?

The method I had in mind was to paint a few light coats of resin to harden and seal the model, cut a hole and fill with plaster of paris. I can then coat with plaster on the outside and sculpt the detail onto the model
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Well it's made out of marble/natural stone, so there was all sorts of color variation. I didn't really "decide" on anything. It took me 12+ hours and the whole process was very mindless (which was kind of the point). Just grab and stick. I did start with the face and went from there.
Forklift with some rope is going to put it in its final resting place. Just using a wire wheel and a file at the moment. I'm not gonna go nuts.
Nice work and cool concept, thanks. Why is that duck shitting though?
I wont lie, I have bought a handful of big garden elephant statues and have them around my house like an autist
This is fucking cool

Its weight makes it impossible for me to really do on my own
Could cut down on the weight if it wasn't solid concrete, some foam or something in the middle....or maybe like a hypertufa mix.

The pipe dream is a full size polar bear clad in polished marble.
His Dark Materials wasn't that good.

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duga 3 edition
old >>1840823
>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

The FAQ is now back:

>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable

>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Sounds pretty nice actually
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>any antennas
very good
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Excellent, thanks!

>any antennas or projects on the property
Go patrician style, pic. very much related.
>The Uncertain Future of Ham Radio (ieee.org)
>Will the amateur airwaves fall silent? Since the dawn of radio, amateur operators -- hams -- have transmitted on tenaciously guarded slices of spectrum. Electronic engineering has benefited tremendously from their activity, from the level of the individual engineer to the entire field. But the rise of the Internet in the 1990s, with its ability to easily connect billions of people, captured the attention of many potential hams. Now, with time taking its toll on the ranks of operators, new technologies offer opportunities to revitalize amateur radio, even if in a form that previous generations might not recognize. The number of U.S. amateur licenses has held at an anemic 1 percent annual growth for the past few years, with about 7,000 new licensees added every year for a total of 755,430 in 2018. The U.S. Federal Communications Commission doesn't track demographic data of operators, but anecdotally, white men in their 60s and 70s make up much of the population. As these baby boomers age out, the fear is that there are too few young people to sustain the hobby.

>This question of how to attract younger operators also reveals deep divides in the ham community about the future of amateur radio. Like any large population, ham enthusiasts are no monolith; their opinions and outlooks on the decades to come vary widely. And emerging digital technologies are exacerbating these divides: Some hams see them as the future of amateur radio, while others grouse that they are eviscerating some of the best things about it.
>The world is changing; the amount of spectrum is not. And it will be hard to argue that spectrum reserved for amateur use and experimentation should not be sold off to commercial users if hardly any amateurs are taking advantage of it.

I guess we have done our bit with the FAQ.
watching this with https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlUeW7IOSFc playing in the background is making me lose my shit

What are some long shelf life products that should/can be bought in bulk for a home shop to save on per unit pricing?
Obviously everyone has special use items or things they use large amounts of already but I'm ignoring those for the most part.

For example should I just buy a giant gal container of molybdenum disulfide grease even if my current use is much less? Those little bottles of penetrating oils are like 10x the price of the big containers but does it expire? How much is a lifetime supply of Braklean for personal use? Is it worth buying a 50gal drum of ETOH free premium gas and mixing my own chainsaw fuel for a few years? Is it worth getting big boxes of welding sticks? Do they sell super packs of just a handful of random fittings, nuts & bolts, fasteners, etc for having on hand for rain day fabricobblin during say a worldwide shutdown where supply is disrupted?
Are there losses from inflation? Or is it smarter to just get the small cans, invest the rest and the ROI will make up for loses? Answer one question and 3 more pop up.

This problem dovetails into the buy once, cry once debate as well.
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I have a solvent locker for such things.
As good an idea that bulk buying sounds in concept. Unless you know for certain you will use that product in a short ammount of time (month or so) buying ahead of time is not smart.
Because rather than spending (making numbers up) $250 on a giant lifetime supply of WD40. You could instead buy a stock or bond for $249 and forever be able to buy the $2 can of WD40 whenever you run out from the money you make on that investment.
And the cool thing is, if shit ever hits the fan, you can sell that investment to recoup (on average) all of your money back to say, buy a new water heater.
Your not going to be able to easily sell an open and used $250 drum of WD40 without taking a massive loss on it.
Just my two cents.
>if shit ever hits the fan
Stocks and bonds become worthless but lubricants always have value.
>Stocks and bonds become worthless but lubricants always have value.

That's it... I'm buying a 55 gallon drum of anal-eze...

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I live in a 12' by 16' tiny house in Houston Texas, and it often gets hot and miserable outside, and I want my window air conditioner to work at its maximum potential. This house is made of a wooden frame with sheet metal, pink fiberglass insulation bats, and sheetrock with two windows and one exterior door. I feel like the whole house is just being pressurized by the window unit with no proper circulation like proper homes have. There is a ceiling fan above my bed, which is not included in the drawing, that I have set to direct air upwards, but I don't think it is helping the room get colder.

If I make a ventilation hole either in the ceiling or the top of the wall in the furthest part of the house from the window AC unit, make it a sort of one-way flap, and waterproof and insect-proof it, will it help my house expel it's warm air better, and allow colder air to reach my bed easier?

I have construction experience so I know I can handle it, and I don't care if it's to code or not if it will help. I don't plan on adding a fan on the vent to blow air out, but I am curious to know what the results may be. I do not have attic access, but I'd rather just pop a 4 inch hole or two in the top of the wall. I don't think this attic has any obvious vents.

Thanks for any input or suggestions. Tear me a new one.
13 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I actually just had great results vacuuming an older unit out and replacing the r22 inside with r134a. I thought about creating a thread showing others how to do this.
if your ac is throwing "Damp, HUMID air", your AC unit is either not draining the humidity away from itself(drainage clog/dehumidifier function and/or AC busted), check that your AC is tilted Slightly away from the window level wise. If it is perfectly level, you are not helping it function.
>a wooden frame with sheet metal
Your gonna need alternate layers of sheet metal and plywood for ballistic resistance.

Do it, I'd be interested in seeing the fittings needed, etc.
Is it an electronic drum kit or did you soundproof your room?

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My Lenovo Ideapad 310-15IKB Type 80TV finally gave up the ghost, pretty sure the motherboard is shot. I was thinking about using this as a learning experience and messing around with some of the parts. However, I have no idea what I'm doing and need pointers on where to start and what to study and learn, or if it's even worth messing with these particular parts.

The first project I had in mind was using the webcam to monitor the bird feeder outside the window.

The second project was using the mic and speakers to amplify my voice while wearing a 3M half facepiece respirator.

Any advice?
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>cant recall the name of it. it caused fights in schools in some areas in america. a girl was beaten over these and a kid got stabbed and then they tried to make every one believe they dont do anything but they lied
what the fuck
>What laptop parts sell?
RAM, HDD, power cord, battery if it's still good, CPU if it's socketed and a good variant for the socket, screen especially if it's an upgrade from the base model, MXM video cards, disk drive, motherboard, case parts especially near the hinges, keyboards or individual keys, cables, anything really.
>he doesnt have an analog microphone
all microphones are analogue...there may be an ADC somewhere in the final circuit, but the microphone itself will always be analogue
Look into EDID spoofing with a ATTiny.

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how to remove fart smell from office chair, its gotten really bad and noticeable, i want to get people home one day.

I read about baking soda in water, but how do i get it "out"of the fabric later, seems it will just be trapped inside there with the fart. if its something i can do with baking soda then better, if not ill get whatever i just want to get it out of this fabric
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>USA is the only country going against what the science says
Get educated son. Sweden did nothing, went about their lives, just as we should have. They've got herd immunity now.
literally seething lol
great picture.
i'm sure there is something about AIDS virus is small enough to pass through a condom atom wise but the jizz isn't so there isn't pressure to push it all the way through. cool right? i don't know if its true though.
Masks are retarded desu.

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Are you building your own arcade machine or restoring a old machine? Post your arcade projects of any kind. I'm working on converting a Arcade 1up machine to a Retropie machine with a coin door.
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What do you guys power your arcades with? A minicomputer like Raspberry Pi, a PC, or OG hardware?
Very nice work, I dont like standard cocktail cabinets but thats a neat idea
Pi 3 struggles with some emulated stuff, like Tetris grandmaster, if you want to be covered in all aspects, get something better. If you don't want anything as powerful or more than a n64, then go with the pi 3.
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PAM8610 is nice and cheap (under $5).
Why isn't this a Donkey Kong cab?

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Is it possible to make thin cooper wire only using primitive tools?
Suppose you traveled back in time to pre-industrial age, and you want to make copper wires that are pure copper, perfectly consistent in width, and are insulated with a thin layer of some insulating substance.
How would you go on about in doing it?
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heat it and stretch it maybe?
Kek underrated

yes you can,

how thin? like gold flakes?

it's not economical.

they were insulated with paper in the past
Flashing lasts that long because its in small quantities.

Lead and copper ony lasts until the first dark night when a pikey drives past.
>Lead and copper ony lasts until the first dark night when a pikey drives past.
You have to be fast and have a ladder.
So you can make a roof out of gold it wont be stolen

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