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never done drywall repairs before (not good ones at least) so what should my plan of attack be for these damaged areas? Is the crescent shaped hole small enough that I could just fill it with 20 minute mud? and for the two knuckle marks would I be able to just paint over them?

It doesn't need to be perfect, it just needs to be passable enough to get our security deposit back.
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If you can afford it, paint the whole wall section corner to corner. If you only touch up the affected area, the sheen will still not match and (even if your patch is perfect) it will be obvious a repair was done.
>finger-sized hole
>bro, just replace the drywall
Fill the two smaller holes and sand. If the bigger hole has broke through the drywall I would pre fill with drywall compound lay a tape coat with mud, rough sand and give it a second coat and sand. By the way like someone mentioned before, it would be a good idea to paint corner to corner on damaged wall.
mix, spread, dry, sand, paint.

when you apply the fill material may bubble out, that is fine. sand it smooth and flat, match the paint and done.

most of what you need is available at a dollar general/dollar tree.
t. dirty sheetrock contractor, I can see the dust on your boots

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I'm trying to fix the arm on my old power hack saw. A arc weld repair lasted only a few months. Epoxy didn't last at all for this type of hold. There is a lot of force on this part.

Epoxy has high sheer strength so I'm thinking about bonding a plate on either side after I mill out a pocket.
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Steel yard for hot rolled or Mcmaster Carr if I need tool steel. You won't find cold rolled flat bar in those dimensions for $7.
Holy shit dude see a professional
You should be backgouging and preheating before you weld and fill it up with stringers, not fucking random ass globs of metal.
Surface fusion will not get you strength in that joint, you need penetration.
>Holy shit dude!
I know, pretty sweet.
Here's your (you)
Yeah you certainly are right, its closer to 10$ for hot and 14$ for cold in those dimensions.. My bad. In that case, OP has certainly saved himself a lot of money!

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Historically, what would a woodworker's vise be like? Before they had precisions machining and such. Was it just a handmade metal screw setup like it is today? Or would they use a wooden screw? I've seen pictures of Japanese "vises" (you tie the piece around a post firmly planted in the ground and then drive a wedge between the post and the piece), but I feel like that's for a very specific thing and not literally every bit of woodworking.
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The concept was probably picked up not long after we mastered fire, down to needing tools to manipulate hot things.
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I think the thing prior to the vise that had pretty much the same function was the 'hook' (french 'crochet', though I'm not sur of neither the original term nor the translation). The (m) in the picture
You can stuck pieces into it and support long ones with pegs driven into the side of the bench. I heard it works well, though I've never used one.
With this, one holdfast and a claw, you can immobilize pretty much anything.
>you can immobilize pretty much anything
Being able to securly hold anything is fairly simple in the end, being able to hold it securly in a suitable position for the tast at hand, a little more difficult. The tools on that bench show what tasks it is meant for, planing large stock and it will excell at that task better than most anything, but most joinery work will end up being a struggle.

When using a crochet, pegs generally only get used in the crochet leg, the far leg would get the hold fast so it can not only support the piece in the vertical, but keep it tight to the bench.
they didn't use a vise they used a jam, basically a wedged piece of wood that would jam the work piece to the table they work in the same way as a "hold fast".

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Has anyone ever used these "women" tools? The pink tax on them means they're either expensive as hell or cheap shit.
It seems like the greatest theft deterrent.
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this kind of shit is how women end up in emergency rooms and a news story along the lines of "woman in critical condition after 3 hours of surgery due to freak sex toy accident, film at 11"
Normally I just purchase what I need in a shop, and I have never seen anything in those colors.

I would purchase these if they were sold in stores, with the same price and quality of those awful regular black + screaming blue/orange/red/yellow.
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sorry I forgot, here's the picture. I don't know how large of a selection you Americans have. I live in Copenhagen in Denmark and often go to Malmö in Sweden, so my "nearby" options are Roeverkoeb and Biltema.

The only stores here where I have seen pink and purple tools, are pricy hobby stores like Panduro, and the tools are meant to make jewelry with...
>neon green

As a Ryobifag my tools proudly bear this proven antitheft feature straight from the factory. That and the name, obviously.

>kept a log of his serials

Oh good I'm not the only one.

Sounds boring.
no but I bought a pink graphing calculator because it was $20 cheaper than a black one.

I don't care about color in fact bright colors are a necessity, so if pink makes it cheaper bring it own. however the problem here is compatibility, these tools don't seem like they would work with my other power tools.

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Hi. I want to build a knitting machine from scratch.
I don't have a 3D printer.
Please help.
marry an old woman
>from scratch.
get a flock of sheep
pffft start breeding up from amoebas.
use your damn hands.

What are these ugly paneling I see on so many houses in the US???
Houses would look 2x better if they were anything else. is it possible to replace it with some kind of covering that doesn't look like shit?
I'd be content with most McMansions if they didn't have this crappy stuff on the outside.
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>painted ribbed ply
It's called T-111 and there's not a competent carpenter alive who thinks it's anything other than complete garbage. One of the only possible siding choices crappier than vinyl, right next to board and batten.
Uda all about trying to become mega rich. We all talk about who's the richest among usand the nice things they have.

It's a very driven mentality many people like the competative nature but we do not have good basic programs its all catered to the wealthy.

>either you came from a country that you wre gonna be be headed or you do minimum wage in the US.

>natives play the rat race hard and thinky our a pussy commie if you look for piblic funded services.

>if you dont over pay is wont be good.

I hate the USA sometimes like dude can I work my ass off in school and not be 100k in debt like that's not smart at all. And like can I not whipe the wallet out when I think I'm dying. Who makes conical decisions when they think they arw dying FFS.

500 buck to have some cunt put an iv in me so I could stop vomiting from food poisoning.
Like dude id help you out if you were dying, no questions.
can you retype this post in english so I can read it? thank you
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The ripper makes spot replacement much easier, and it's not like it's expensive.

But if the shingles are really fucked, instead of constantly doing spot replacements, why not rip them all and redo it. You can do a side of the house at a time, by yourself each one should only take you a couple of days.
Yeah he should probably rip them all off his house with a flat shovel or some other long-handled tool like that.

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Mobile edition
Old >>1813941

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable

>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?

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A 'hot' shack is the normal curse. The longer the coax the better the SWR.
>Pic related plus this is what I'm running
That 80' run, is that coax?
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The WPX Contest is based on an award offered by CQ Magazine for working all prefixes. Held on the last weekend of March (SSB) and May (CW), the contest draws thousands of entries from around the world.
6m and/or 2m
You may as well run a doublet then.

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Okay /diy/ I am sick of cheap ass window fans turning to shit within one year.

Are there any fucking brands of window fans that do not fucking suck and wear out immediately? I've gone through 3 in the past 3 years. The shitty bushings have worn out on 2 and the other gave off an annoying hum due to the digital speed control.

I have a Vornado desk fan and the thing has preformed flawlessly for the past 5 years and I use it every night of the year. Are there any brands that make decent quality fans like Vornado for window fans?

I cannot use a box fan (not that I can find a decent quality one of those anymore either) as my sliding window doesn't open up wide enough to hold the box fan.

Second question is does anybody use one of those window mount whole house fans? If so how do you like it? Is there a brand of whole house fans that doesn't suck?

Should I just buy a fucking vornado and mount it to a piece of plywood and make my own window fan?
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You shouldn't be cutting holes in your roof if you're not at least a little familiar with roofing. You can't just cut a hole stick the pipe through and caulk it or whatever. It needs to be with a boot layered correctly into the shingles and underlayment. A roof penetration like that done correctly does not get caulked.

If there's a route to send the exhaust out a wall, those kits are easier. They make retard boxes for use with vinyl siding and similar profiles.
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Why not installing 2 or 3 of these in the wall?
Near the roof, so the cold air can come down.
I live in one of the few houses in the USA that has real brick siding over the studs. The overhang’s soffit is where I was thinking of just placing a new vent into, since it’s just wood.
Oh. Yeah you can cut a hole in the soffit yourself. If you make a mess of it just seal up any gaps so squirrels and bees and shit don't get in there.
do you just use the fans instead of a proper AC?

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Planning on buying a block from home depot this week, it will be used as a computer desk. Anyone recommend the type of poly I should use for this? Wipe on poly, water based poly or oil based poly.
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Polyshades is gross. Oil based adds more color than water based. Use long even strokes and a very light sand between coats.

I also like tru oil if I have lots of time and want a lot of control over the finish.
What is the catch with this stuff? 4'x2'1.5" piece of hardwood seems cheap. Ikea is literally partial board but the home depot stuff is all birch. I was thinking about getting a slab and doing BLO on it.
Purely a matter of taste op.
I'm partial to epoxy myself, but there is no Right answer, no matter what some fag on diy says.
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ive had good luck with pic related. sanded to 220, applied, sanded, applied sanded. applied. then sanded up to maybe 400. You definitely want a nice thick coat on the top and front side, where most of the damage will be.
what kind of legs are you putting on it?

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there can be only one, /diy/. so who will win the ultimate battle?
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>Why would you need both of those? They deliver almost the same torque.

Got the 1/2" hi torque to start with and it would do damn near anything, but there are a few times where shit is seized up bad with bigger sizes where the 3/4" just shines that much more, and as mentioned the less adapters you have the more impact force gets through to the actual fastener itself.

I bought the smaller mid-torque 1/2" impact because the hi-torque is just plain too big for lug nuts. I mean you can do them just fine, it is just heavier and hits way harder than needed for lug nuts. Even with the mid torque I run torque sticks for tightening.
The Bauer is $135. Ryobi sells an 18V for $129. If you want a corded one, you gotta spend $200+ to get a real brand.

I have heard a lot of problems with that Bauer. By the time you get the replacement plans and deal with broken shit, you might as well spend the extra $75 on a Milwaukee that will work right.
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Rock best tool.
Why isnt fest tool on your list

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Where is a good place to order pipes from for a good price? In-person places charge far too much.
27 replies omitted. Click here to view.
It was his birthday six days ago, anon
But you'd have to pay for them? I am asking about getting them for free like at a construction site etc.
>autism-level knowledge about fucking pipe
That's pretty basic pipe and tube knowledge. Like, first time working with it level knowledge.
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>Cheap pipes
>ball bearings
What's the pipe for???

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You dun goofed edition
Previous thread >>1797664

In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.
>How do I get started with racing drones?
> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)
>What about planes?
hat about aerial photography, is DIY viable?
Buy a DJI if what you actually want is to take good photos/videos, go DIY if what you actually want is a fun project.
>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly around my yard/garden

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are "drone operator jobs" a meme? from everything ive seen its either military, or a fully qualified profession like surveyor that happen to utilise drone as an auxiliary tool. Most industrial/agricultural applications have skipped operators entirely and gone the fully autonomous route

All jobs are a meme
Why not just use the regular Pixhawk Cube? The carrier board has 2x CAN interfaces. Also as >>1831633 points out, Arducopter is far more widely used (especially in academia/research) than PX4.

As somebody who does commercial drone work, I can confirm that the market is fairly dire. Entry level is hugely over saturated with people willing to work for pennies, or willing to work illegally/unlicensed, while high end stuff requires decades of aviation experience, cinematography experience, survey experience, etc. Unfortunately just because you've been building & playing with drones for the last couple of years doesn't make you employable.
Ive worked with the Pixfalcon AKA the Pixhawk Mini before, it runs great, but I cant say I recommend it. The PX4 software and firmware definitely isnt as advanced as Ardupilot. My main gripe is that it seems like a rather dated way to do things at this point. By that I mean everything on the Pixhawks has a specific wire bus you connect to each part, instead of soldering., even the ESCs connect directly to unit with those little 3 pin connectors. I realize the purpose of that is ease of repair and the fact that weight shouldnt matter on a larger multicopter.
Thx anon

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Whats a good easy way to filter waste vegetable oil so it can be used to fuel a diesel engine?

I don't want to spend too much money on filters and pumps and stuff like that.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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Centrifuge filter.
It's not that simple you have to precipitate out the glycerine before use.
Your thinking biodiesel which was discredited in the 2000s.
These cost a lot of money.

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New thread, same old OP post and another poorly lit picture of the bench.

old thread >>1804889

Welcome to woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

The Essential /wwg/ library.
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned.

Chris Pye wrote the book on carviing and keeps on writing them.

The eastern tradtion, Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use by Toshio Odate

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Thanks for the input I appreciate it.

Uh I don't think I'd be comfortable be posting pics cus like liability and for this type of contracting lotsa money flying around.

I may be paranoid but keep in mind I just got off working using a hammer drill and the blue looking screws type shit to hand sheets at a bank while hundreds and/or thousands of protesters were marching.

Yuh I saw some other contractors that litterally framed a wall, hung 3/4 board then like used some type of black maybe rubber or tar type shit then mesh then 2 bys going horizontal.

The problem is just I think anything we do is pointless at this point because these people are pissed.

I guess its impossible to secure at this point because of logistics, we got this the same morning they needed shit boarded before it gets dark because we kicked a different dipshit contractor out.

Leave as is they smash one of the many windows or windowed doors.

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>Are you in charge anon?
>Did you order the materials?
>Did you design the reinforcements?
>Did you design the mall? Did you ask yourself back then years ago how you were gonna seal that shit off during chimpouts?

Anon you weren't tasked to protect the mall. You were tasked to board up the mall and you did that. Nothing is ever tamper proof, nothing will ever be tamper proof. Your job was to make tampering with the mall a lot fucking harder and you succeeded.
You right, I was prolly asking some dumb questions, I suppose coulda posted to adv or something.
No to all, but like its so hard to even just find board rn because shits either closed or burned down lmao.
I was actually shopping at a Menards today and their selection of lumber is getting kind of scarce. If you want 1x12 for a project, tough. Plywood? No way. I grabbed a 1x8 board for a set of bookshelf speakers after I realized they had some that weren't cracked or caked in knots.
But yeah, you boarded up the mall the best you could. The company won't pay you to re-board it up to better standards because the "protester" that's committed is getting through no matter what. But the ones that are acting on impulse and simply not thinking are gonna tug on your woodwork for a little while and give up, and that's exactly what the company wants and exactly what you gave them: a little peace of mind and some cheap sacrificial lumber to protect the windows from thrown objects and angry BLM members.
Yeah honesty there is gonna be two type of cleanups when this mellows up. Either its structeral and they knock er down or its not and you rip all affected areas to studs and clean. Litterally doesn't matter what we do at this stage I suppose but its a downer to think about,

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how to install linux myself because windows yesterday gone bad
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>Debian is not going to be a distro you'll want as a personal user.
why? I see people say this all the time and dont exactly understand why, ive been using it for a while and it seems fine
I have been running ubuntu, on my ryzen 5 cpu and amd gpu, since 2017.

Maybe Mac O/S is for you.
It's more about creating something supremely stable, but not offering any support beyond the very narrow bounds of what is considered stable. If you go beyond this and ask for help you'll quickly be told you have created a frankendebian and nothing more. It's fine if you want a slightly more functional chromebook or if you have a team of people and want it as a base to develop a new distro from, or a few other use cases. If you make a frankendebian though it does get unstable very quickly and there's no support, and most people want to do shit like install some random software without the OS committing sepuku.
Well done!
install gentoo

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