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File: s-l1000.jpg (126 KB, 872x1000)
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What is the best way to convert low power devices that use one or two alkaline cells to lithium (3,6-3,7V)?
I converted my keyboard to lithium by putting 2 diodes in series to drop voltage closer to what 2xAAA would put out but i calculated 70% efficiency at best.
Keep in mind that i'm not talking about power hungry devices where using NiMhs actually makes a lot of sense. Using Nickel based batteries is kinda stupid considering their high self discharge rate, lithium on the other hand are perfect for that. Using buck converters also doesn't make sense (at least to me) since they would draw more power than device itself (around 1mA for devices, or few uA in standby).
My mouse uses 2, I have 4 NiMH... Just swap em and by the time they'll go weak, the other pair will be charged enough to be useable
Oh,I forgot to tell you that it takes me 3 months to get them weak enough to be unusable...NiMH are a great all rounder.

Btw, you also get AA and AAA that are actually lithium ion and are charged from usb
why dont you just get lithium AAAs?
Just use diodes and resistors. If you buy rectangular lipo cells that match the AAA slot, you actually get more battery volume, combined with the higher space efficiency of lipo, you come out ahead in total useful capacity anyway.
Because those are non recheargeable, unless you think of 10440 but they are still higher voltage than NiMhs.
Yea, not bad, but you lose most of the capacity on self discharge (if you don't use it as much). I got month of usage more with same capacity lipo battery, if i could get that efficiency up it would be even better. Nickel based batteries lose more capacity over first night than lithium does in a year. My AAs lost half of their capacity and internal resistance went crazy after i forgot about them for a year.
That's pretty much same config i use, however i lose quite a bit of power on those diodes, if i there was smarter way to do it i would get a lot more of usable power. But as you said i still get more usable capacity and its much lighter.

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I am convinced imperial is better than metric for every day life and personal projects.
The weather: 0F is about as cold as it gets, 100F is about as hot as it gets, not some -15C to 40C bullshit or whatever the fuck.
Length measurements: You can divide a foot into 2, 3, 4, 6, which is way more useful than metric divisions of 2 or 5. For an inch, you get all the powers of 2 instead of just 2 and 5 again. Miles have all sorts of friendly fractions compared to km.
Volume measurements: Clear visualizations, you know how big a teaspoon is or a cup is or a gallon is. Nice powers of two involved again.

Unless you're a working in a lab (and maybe even then) imperial is the way to go.
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But that's the problem of low denomination. It impacts the poorest people the most. If you got rid of all coins (let's say, you can stick with a quarter if you want), you haven't changed wealth, and now the smallest transaction has to be $1. the value of a dollar will sink to the value of that transaction. You'll end up changing the value of all money, or making small transactions impossible, causing other issues.
As an imperialist through and through, I do like the millimeter. Fractional inches is fine for sockets, where if it's not the right size you just grab the next size and the size is more of a name. For measuring sub inch distances, millimeters is useful.

But fuck smug metric fags.
where I live, 0C is about as cold as it gets and 50C is a record high
But I imagine normally it just goes up to 30 something.
Yeah that is true.

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Is this a good composter design? It seems like the heaviest one would just sink to the bottom.. but then again, maybe that's fine, since the heaviest one needs to emptied the soonest anyway.

I'm thinking about building this today/tomorrow, where would I find those metal three sided spindle things used in pic related?
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Have you looked into renting a storage unit or make an agreement with someone near by with an unused lot?
Leave your balcony free of stuff and no one will see anything to complain about. Do your basic materials separation in the kitchen and composting in unused living spaces.
Looks like this creates some smoke and odors which is problematic as I already have fascist neighbors.
Find a compost manufacturer and offload it to them.

Also this >>1829865

We sometimes sell 90 tonnes of it a day.
Do you purchase organic waste from random weirdos?

Is it okay if a capacitor is not flush against the board? is a couple millimetres like pic related okay?
7 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Omnidirectional bonding stick
Thermally deliquesced omnidirectional bonding dielectric.
Capacitors expand and contract, if installed flush to the board the expansion could pop off the solder joints.
i miss r/hotglue

First of all, the picture is not my actual backyard but I'll post it if I get some actual answers.
The main difference is that the earth is dead for lack of a better word. A few years ago I used a lot of grass seeds in it and it kinda worked but nowadays there's only a small patch of grass alive at the center.

Anyway, I want some advice of how I could made this shitty soil not kill everything I put in it without spending any money, plus everything's closed so there's also that.

Advice on what to grow on it would be nice too, it's mid autumn where I live so maybe I'll have to wait but idk
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Last year I dug everything off that area to reveal the clay subsoil and dug a shovel deep into the clay and broken it up. I've then worked it back in with a shovel full of the top soil and bulk shit that I can get hold of cheap or free. I'm talking straw, hay, grass cuttings, spend brewery grains and hops, wood chippings etc. Also spent compost from containers. I piss on it every now and then. I dump the filter squeezing from my aquariums over it. You get the idea, anything that might reasonably constitute a soil 'improver'.

I covered it with sugar paper/card boards which I get in 2x2m sheets from work and kept it covered over winter so nothing could grow in it. The end of January this year I dug the rotting cardboard into the ground trenches and dumped both my compost heaps (2 square metres) over them and dug that back in and covered it again. This spring I planted a vegetable plot.

At the end of this season I will dig it all over and dump more bulk waste onto it and cover it again until next January. I use compost for planting, but only where I plant and again to dress the top soil around plants.

I keep the area hoed and I try and only water and fertilise the rows I am planting in. It was a big project, but it was a big area. You need a lot of material to improve a big area so improvise.
But honestly dude it depends on what you are starting off with and what you've access to. Most newer properties are a basic rectangle plot and sit atop what used to be a building site. Most buy in some top soil and spread a thin layer over the whole area, racking it. Establish edging for borders and build them up to a greater height than the middle area with bought in compost/soil 'improver' and plant straight into that then mulch with chips on top and then lay turf in the middle, water in, top dress with some more compost and call it a day.

You get that boring ass generic landscaped rectangle garden vibe on the cheap. Dress the lawn once a year. Mulch the borders once a year. Over time you add material to the area and it gets better as it matures.

You can go hog wild and have a corner tree, or a round or semicircular border. You can put in a area of hard standing patio or decking. Make a shed, greenhouse or workshop. Position a composting area.

Top soil can be cheap or free if you are prepared to find people who need to get rid of it. It is a waste product for some. Soil 'improver' here is basically industrially composted organic matter, wood chips and cardboard heat treated and then from the local recycling centre. It is not very good, but it is really cheap.

Woodchip mulch is pretty cheap in bulk amounts and is a compromise between utility, looks and cost. Other mulches are available, but you might have to seek them out and they all have pros and cons. You want something to discourage weed growth acting as a physical barrier which is compatible with what is below and doesn't look shit. It breaks down over time and needs periodic renewal. When it is totally shagged digging it in ideally causes little harm and helps with soil structure.

Buying in good compost should be for where you plant only because it is expensive.
He's right
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OP, you need to build up soil to make stuff grow on there
bugs, worms, fungi are critical for healthy soil
If I were you I'd get as much plant matter as I could locally
twigs and hard plant stems buried about 1ft deep
Last years dead leave, grass clippings etc in big compost pile
turn pile over twice a week and cover with black tarp, keep moist, it should gate toasty
composting bacteria can generate 40deg C easy, even more if you do it right
composting shouldn't take more than 3-4 week, then spread the pile and work into soil
buy some worms, tigers and night crawlers and release them in your patch
now you got soil that you can grow shit on
buy some plants, apply mulch around them and grass everywhere else
after that set up composting bin in far corner and apply compost whenever bin is done
mowing lawn and kitchen waste should give you enough composting material
apply some weak fertiliser every now and again but less is better than more, you can poison soil with too much
also if you got space two smaller composting bins are better than big one, lets you empty one completely while you fill second
water butt can be used to make compost tea for watering, you can use your compost without spreading it

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Damnit /diy/ I fucked up my billet, help.
>Making a pattern welded knife
>Using hydraulic press cause I'm short on time
>Get billet to exact dimensions I want
>Decide to square it up for easy grinding
>Eyes cross, fall into another dimension
>Hand slips in the process
>Mash my fucking billet
Picture tells the whole story desu. I know this is fixable, but I'm wondering if I should forge the whole thing to the width of the squashed part and then weld it, or if I should just cut it now and slap em together and hope for the best. Any advice? Also share your blacksmithing fuckups and horror stories
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>Also share your blacksmithing fuckups and horror stories
Well what did you think was going to happen
definitely not this
Reforge the whole billet.
Just fold it in half and reforge it wtf

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I was pruning my paper bark maple and I thought one of the branches would make a nice magic wand. I removed the bark, sanded it, and applied some linseed oil. Where should I go from here? Add some colors? Inlay some gemstones? Etch something in Sindarin??
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Wands are a sensible topic on this board. Im sure your niece would be happy with one, the question is how to make it vibrate.
You have to be older than 13 to post here.
That does it.
Mods, please delete this abortion of a thread.

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/hgt/ or /hbg/
Homebrew Thread, Homebrew General
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>spending hundreds of dollars on a prebuilt still you could have made for $10 and your mom's broth pot
That's not DIY!
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All you need is sugar and yeast. I can get these at my local supermarket. It costs nothing.
I wonder why alcoholics spend all their money on booze. They do it for the buzz anyway so they might as well just make some pure Ethanol.
it's called kilju.
Anyone have a good traditional recipe for svagdricka? I don't speak bork, and I don't trust forums on beer sites to have genuine recipes and not immitations.
I'm looking for some real traditional shit here, right? Like, the shit that was old when your grandma started making it.

What's the best buy on Oscilloscopes? I want to keep it under $300 Do you all have any recommendations? Yes, I'm using this for gravity, my time to build it is upon us.
66 replies and 23 images omitted. Click here to view.
At what price point it makes more sense to get a new cheapo chink DSO rather than an old used analog scope? I keep finding only ancient CTO for almost the same price of any DSO on banggood shipped from EU, which doesn't make any sense to me.

For lots of the things I do, having storage capability trumps everything else.
Okay, I did this, but now all of my wave forms look like Thanksgiving hand turkeys
It's not about the price it's about the application. Handheld scopes are ALWAYS shit though.

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Any useful things to do with these?
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>How to spot an ignorant person
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That's actually not a tool, it's a real life upvote. That guy just doesn't know how to crop his stuff.
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btw not many people realize this, but if you ever get in a pinch you can use it as a downvote. Just rotate it 180 degrees and you're set. Little life hack for ya ;-)

I suppose a pallet dismantler or pallet wrecker. There are a ton of different designs. I'm sure you can even purchase them. I just threw that one together with leftover steel I had lying around.

One set of teeth will fit around a single 2x4 on edge with a bit of wiggle room and the other set of teeth will fit around two 2x4's or one 4x4 on edge with some wiggle room. That way you can tackle most pallet configurations with it.
Whelp.. not great. But I learned some stuff so, that’s something I guess

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Hey /diy/, anyone have experience with outsourcing small CNC jobs to Chinese machine shops? I have a couple knife designs drawn up in CAD that I’d like to get machined as a personal project and I’m trying to figure out the best way to go about it[spoiler][/spoiler]. There’s a couple websites that offer instant quotes for very small runs from Chinese factories, but I’m also wondering if it would be simpler to put in a sample request through Alibaba or something.
55 replies and 7 images omitted. Click here to view.
As if they didn't verify the calipers against a measuring block they printed.
fucking pussies, I can measure .0001 tolerances with just my eyes, and if I pop the part into my asshole and squirm around on it a little bit I can get you some GD&T readings on circularity and cylindricity.
How often do you have your asshole certified for accuracy?
> CNC knifes in China

kys dumb mutt. No respect for quality work
> CNC knife
expect a POS knife
> from China
expect them to use the cheapest fucking low quality metal they can find
Gonna sharpen it after each cut and remove rust once a week
My sides bruh

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Ok, I've scoured xda, google, etc.

I'm attempting to create an odb/lojack system for my motorcycle. The bike has no smarts or instruments so so I'm using a few micros to give me the data, storage, odb, WiFi/bt etc. I considered a lojack feature and Im down to the cell modem. 4g modems are super pricey, 3g is going out the door and I have a samshit s6. Better than an applel for this I guess.

I know one could use the adb connection via a USB host and I was successful in sending some data, among a few small features. I haven't even gotten to receiving a text yet but it's gonna be ugly. It occurred to me that even if I got this to work, it takes over 3 minutes to start this phone, making it for a shitty lojack. Samshit is typically bloatware anyways.

What way does one go about reducing/eliminating as much as possible from the rom in order to create a modem slave device? Ui is not required. Storage and other data would be a plus, but the intent is to have a quick booting device that can connect to LTE and send SMS within 30 secs. The only other requirement is stability. I contemplated removing one package at a time from the phone but I'm not sure what the risk of bricking is. How far can I go? Or is there another method? Am I chasing dreams?
If you're attempting to track a vehicle after it's stolen, just put in a cell phone attached to the battery with a "find my phone" feature somewhere hidden and out of the way and just leave it on.

If you're out to prevent the bike from being stolen - a hidden switch disconnecting the battery works well enough to discourage most thieves. If it uses carburetor a fuel shut off on top of an electrical switch makes it really damn hard for the uninitiated to start the bike.
>find my phone
Didn't read the post huh.
>prevent from being stolen
Lol it's easy roll it into my truck. The bike is a naked bike.
Op here.

After rooting, and removing bloat it got the s6 to reduce battery usage significantly. No more google, samshit, etc as much as I could. The phone can sit for days now with airplane mode on. This is progress.

Next step to increase battery life, run a chron job to poll the acell data, activate cell and beacon location on movement, timeout of movement kills the modem. Or at least that's the idea. Can I do it better? Am I being dumb?
Yea that's what I'd expect out of 4chan, especially diy, but quarantine must be lifting because no one's called me a faggot yet. The project worked, better than I hoped for, it's just noone cares. Pls kys for bumping my thread, this is a place to oppress and discourage, not uplift endeavours of creation.

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Hey anons I am wondering if anyone has a good solution for fixing small holes in rubber. I am trying to fix these little holes where bra wire poked holes in the drain boot for my washer. Any good flexible waterproof compound I could get in there. A replacement is 50 bucks and I would feel like a jackass spending that on a rubber piece.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
This, one of the patch+ cement style repair kits is the only good answer. That or replace the part.

my sides are in orbit! I love this place!
aluminum pop-rivets
buy a new one, cheap skate
here's a protip for you, tranny:
get a lingerie bag to put your bras in when washing so this doesn't happen again.

Hey guys, just looking to start a conversation with yall! Which one do you have and which model or brand do you think really packs a punch compared to the rest and why do you think so? Let's get the conversation going!
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Front-deck master race reporting
>Small turning circle
>Smooth straight lines
>Get to edges and under branches
>Not top-heavy
>4wd available
I have a 18 year old Bolens 46" cut tractor with a twin cylinder engine that I got from an estate sale for $50
needed a new battery and inner tubes for the 2 from wheels

it's alright
My dad has a JD F725 with front, 3-blade deck and it's much nicer at manuevering efficiently than a typical front-engine, front-steer mower with middle deck.

He also has a Dixon Grizzly 60" which I haven't rode much, but is much faster and makes a smaller footprint. Better for manuevering and speedy mows, and drives by lever handles instead of steering wheel and pedals.

Any riding mower with front deck, rear engine, rear-steer is superior than those not. At least for mid-sized jobs. Heavy acrage, deep grass, obviously a large ass tractor with towed deck, any small jobs, or jobs with tight spots, like for a suburban house-sized lawn, it's nice to have a push mower too.
I like zero turn mowers for sure, rn I have a 60 inch gravely that's been strong for Idk like 5 years it's commercial, I also like Kubota and John deere but they're a bit expensive and definitely Dixie chopper
I use a lawn tractor to mow about an acre with. Main reason I got the lawn tractor was because I pull around trailers, aerator, thatcher, roller with it.

Getting a new heat pump, got an offer for a Bosch for $6400 and had a company offering to come up to the house for an estimate for their Carrier brand. Any thoughts on carrier vs bosch heat pumps?
$6400 for just the heat pump? Or are they replacing your entire system/unit? (Cant think of the specific name atm)

I had the whole shebang replaced last summer and it only cost me around $7500. Old and new units were Lennox, so I dunno about carrier v. Bosch
Oh, the old Lennox lasted about 13 yrs, btw
The entire system. I forgot to ask about the labor warranty but will call him later.
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Trane or GTFO.
Bosch makes Carrier heat pumps, at least for commercial applications. I can tell you that the Bosch heat pumps I've dealt with at work are solid but if you need Bosch specific parts they often have unreasonably long lead times.

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