[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]

Self-serve ads are available again! Check out our new advertising page here.

[Advertise on 4chan]

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: 12674215698.jpg (63 KB, 800x800)
63 KB
I have never built one before and would like to stay under 50$ so I can buy/make gifts for everyone in my family. I heard about using Styrofoam and painting it with concrete, but im unsure if that would last very long. If that is a good trick to use, are those hot styrofoam cutters 100% needed?
How big of a fountain?
A small countertop/desk fountain. I think a foot long for its biggest dimension. I was thinking of maybe making it look kinda like a river.
I would start looking up those heron fountains. That would be the cheapest if you can get the geometry right

File: file.png (1 MB, 720x960)
1 MB
I have a pair of old Sennheiser 500 headphones where the adjustable glide inside the top part just snapped in half. This has happened with another pair I didn't attempt to fix. Gorilla Glue and others say "join parts with a clamp for 24 hours" but I genuinely don't know how to clamp pieces along a length together, there's a slight curvature and obviously the clamp can't be on the join itself.
Googling did me no good so either I'm the world's biggest retard or this requires something a little more sophisticated to hold the two parts in place for me.
It's something obvious, isn't it?
9 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
they deserve a 3d printed replacement
You could hotmelt some clamping blocks on each side. I think reinforce across the break, maybe a internal dowel pin or wrapped in sticky fiber mesh drywall tape and squeeze epoxy filler in there.
Try some pipe cement, I guess. That shit cures fast as fuck, and in the meantime you could cut notches in a chunk of wood at the right angles to hold it in place.
The answer is always duct tape
except when you need a solid adhesion

File: 1602974012177.jpg (71 KB, 600x701)
71 KB
I'm upsizing my garage mini split AC from 9k BTU (under 1 ton) to 30k BTU (2.5 tons). I want to use my existing romex in the wall which is 12-2. I'll just use the now neutral wire as the second leg powering the new unit, which is 220v, 1 phase

The unit I'm putting in, the site says, has a "rated current" at 12.5 amps in cooling. 13.5 amps in heating. "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" at 15. I'm not sure what this is.

I'll just replace the breaker to a 220v one, maybe 30 amps?

Would I be ok with using the existing 12-2 romex?
11 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>The unit I'm putting in, the site says, has a "rated current" at 12.5 amps in cooling. 13.5 amps in heating. "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" at 15.

Buy a 2 pole 15 amp breaker and put the existing 12-2 on it. Put black tape on the white wire
He needs a common unless he's gonna tape the ground but then he needs a ground.
There's a lot of bad info in this thread (and a lack of real info as well), but I offer this advice as someone who has wired a few houses and passed every inspection without a hiccup:
You need a breaker of 15 amps or 20. 15 amps should be enough for your unit according the manufacturers specification (and assuming that there is no other load on that circuit), thats the "Minimum Circuit Ampacity" that they list.
Most of the time when you find 12 gauge wire in a house, it's on a 20 amp breaker. 20 amps is the best choice for this circuit. DO NOT USE A BREAKER LARGER THAN 20 AMPS WITH 12 GAUGE WIRE. It's a safety hazard in normal household use to do so.

You must also check to see if you require a neutral (white) wire for this unit to operate. Most of the mini splits that I have installed required only the 240v hot wires and a ground. No neutral.

But some of the modern units need all 4 wires, so be sure to check the manual.
Don’t blame me lol I told OP to check what size breaker he needed and to factor in voltage drop
He doesn't need a neutral if it's 220v only unit which it probably is.

He needs to double check the specs. "220v single phase" should be good with the 12-2 romex

If it says "220v single phase with neutral" or "220v single phase 4-wire" or "220/120v single phase" then he would need a 12-3 romex.

Now that I reread what he posted, he might need a 2 pole 20amp breaker. When the a/c unit arrives it should have a sticker on it saying what size breaker to use.
13.8 amps X 125% = 17.25 amps

I got a 2 inch hole and a 1.5 inch crack in my tub. They are well above the shower water level and I don’t take baths but they bug the shit out of me. I am not at all a handy man.

Should I just use something like flex seal tape or actual putty? I don’t plan on selling this home any time in the next decade so this is purely to sate the need to fill holes.
yeah im mean you could nigger the shit out of it with just about anything. seeing as how its just cosmetic.
>flex seal
Do not ever use this shit. It doesn't work and you'll have to spend hours chiseling it out of whatever you put it on.
Any decent brand of duck tape will work. The backing of duck tape is meant to repel water, and the adhesive is strong enough for long term use.
You could use tape. Alternatively, you could try a resin/fiberglass patch kit like they use for cars. That might work

File: welding.jpg (46 KB, 715x401)
46 KB
Welding General
24 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
Go fast. However fast you think you need to go? Go at least twice as fast as that. Use slightly more amps than you think you would, because your on/off time is going to be shorter as well. You're not looking to build up heat in the part, you want to put in as little heat outside the weld puddle as possible. The only way to do this is to use more initial heat to instantly melt the area you want to weld and then taper and turn the arc off before the heat soaks into the rest of the part.
This is sad because she probably doesn't realize invisible portion of light still goes right through her eyelids
Infrared does (though it's no longer focused to damaging intensity), but ultraviolet does not.
how do I find the line between forming a puddle quickly and burning right through the part?
Practice. Everything you do to thin parts just needs to be at a much faster rate than what you're used to. You need to modulate your arc with your pedal extremely quickly. You need to move extremely quickly. If you're concerned at not knowing "where" your quick puddle formation heat is at you need to do some tests and feel it out. I'm sorry I can't be more specific but welding 18g and thinner sheet metal or small intricate parts was my forte and like all welding it basically boils down to enough practice to build up an intuition that you can see/hear/feel out what you're doing.

File: woodgear.png (192 KB, 692x631)
192 KB
192 KB PNG
did I fuck up with this woodworking gear i bought?

>Wen planer
>Wen joiner
>Ryobi table saw
3 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
A used Craftsman 100 table saw from 70 years ago, which can be had for as low as $50, is better than that Ryobi.
> i could find one even if I wanted one
File: 1.jpg (241 KB, 828x1067)
241 KB
241 KB JPG
Post your local Craig's List and I will see what is in the neighborhood.

Craftsman sometimes sold 5 different varieties of table saw at any given time. Their largest would be a smaller cabinet saw but they are fairly uncommon. The model 80 and model 100 (8 inch and 10 inch) are the most common that you find. They are referred to as 'benchtop' saws and are similar to modern 'jobsite' saws. They also tended to keep whatever was the older type around after it had become antiquated as the cheaper option. Then they had the Companion and Dunlap brands, for the really low-end stuff to avoid diluting the Craftsman name. The picture is from the 1955 catalog.
I just can't imagine that ryobi is very stable and it doesn't look like you can large rips.
Byobi once Cryobi once.

Anyone know any good rocket fuel recipes, I've done some diy stuff but I wanna make something pretty decent sized this time, also some rocket engine designs would be cool if you have something good
18 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
A step above rocket candy would be APCP. Ammonium perchlorate made by electrolysis of sodium chloride and then precipitation with an ammonium salt. Add aluminum powder and use a 2 part epoxy rubber to set it to whatever shape is desired. I think around 80% AP and 15% aluminum and just enough epoxy to surround the powder and make a composite is good enough for the garage rocket builder.
Wait isn’t that for cold war era ICBMs?
or just replicate the v2 with an old turbo, maybe use an pulsejet instead of the peroxide to heat the fuel before injection
I'm an amateur rocketeer of sorts working on developing a hybrid rocket engine with a group at the moment

Don't listen to anyone telling you to make a liquid engine, the complexity is staggering. Don't even bother with a hybrid unless you have loads of cash, a lot of spare time and willingness to learn a multitude of skills. And of course, a machine shop.

Richard Nakka's website has loads of good info on solid rockets and provides a good starting point
Hybrids are easier than solids, there are lots of propellant combinations you can use. A good one is tire rubber and laughing gas.

Specially I am looking for a hand planer but wondering in general how these brands are. When porter cable dewalt makita etc all chinese shit anyway might as well not pay for name.
13 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Also, just an FYI, the Porter Cable and the Ryobi both hold 3 year warranties on those bandsaws, the Ryobi has an additional tension release that the others dont.
The harbor freight has a 90 day warranty, they are all around the same price.
Saw ryobi has 3 year warranty. Might gonwith them over the 40$ wen.
>real product designed and made by a real company
Because most of the shit comes from the same factories these days and designs can and will be copied and modified as they always have been. The only thing the west does well is over engineer and waste materials.
>90 day warranty
This is what I always say in the HF threads. I really dislike buying anything >$40 with electronics from them. Plus when you factor in the price of the 2-year replacement plan, the name brand often costs less. The $9 Drillmaster heat gun, I got my money out of it after 2 uses. The $120 8gal compressor will be the test, it’s the same one as HD sells under the Husky brand. I ran it pretty good the past couple months, and I’ll buy the North Star when I kill it.

HF also scrubs bad reviews from their website. I have seen it on my own reviews, they let a couple 1-3 star reviews go thru, but the reviews I posted never seem to show up if they’re <4 stars.

File: Waterproof-Box-Large_1.jpg (291 KB, 1000x1000)
291 KB
291 KB JPG
Is there anyway to make a box that is truly waterproof. I heard the biggest issue with house fires is the firefighters will hose it down and the pressure will destroy everything. There's also floods.

I heard there is no such thing as a waterproof safe. Because they need to allow moisture and air in so the contents don't get fried and the safe doesn't explode.

But surely there has to be a smaller internal box you can make that can do the job.
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
3 mil thick steel or aluminium sheets and weld them together with your stuff inside.
I would pay for such a product. It's just I would have to search through 1000's of pages of garbage products to find it.
AOL keyword: dry bag
File: IMG_1330.jpg (13 KB, 385x385)
13 KB

File: log cabin.jpg (425 KB, 2048x1500)
425 KB
425 KB JPG
I recently purchased a decent plot of timberland up in the UP of Michigan and I'm planning on building a camp (a dry cabin) there. I'm a big fan of really traditional building techniques and the log cabin I'm going to build is going to have a solid stone and mortar masonry foundation. For reasons of keeping the cabin a bit warmer, I would like to do a full foundation instead of piers that way I can insulate under the floorboards.

However, this creates a bit of a problem. The frost line depth in the area of the UP I'm building is 72". Because this is going to be a camp, I'm not required to build to any code, but at the same time I don't want my cabin to sink into the ground within a few seasons. Is it absolutely necessary to go the usual 12" below the frost line for the footings of the foundation? The amount of excavation, stone, and labor that would be required to build a solid stone foundation for a frost line this deep would be a massive undertaking, combined with the 18" above grade height to keep the logs dry that would be a solid 12x16' wall of stone over 8 feet high from top to bottom.

I find it hard to believe that the original pioneers in the northern part of the country went through that amount of effort. Since this isn't going to be a massive 2000 sq. ft. house, can I get away with just going down a few feet with the foundation? How likely is it going to be that the whole thing will sag and crumble within a decade or so?

Building a log cabin with a stone foundation, don't feel like digging down 7 feet and then building an 8 foot foundation. Can I get away with only going down 2-3 feet and have a reasonably sturdy structure?

pic related, the style of cabin I'm going for, obviously it's not going to be two stories or have all the embellishments though.
5 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Slab on grade
-vapor barrier
-4" rigid foam
I’m a geological engineer. The mechanism of foundation failure you’re worrying about is called “frost heave”. It’s ok if you have fast draining soils ie sands, and the groundwater table is deep even in seasonal times and you aren’t building in the drainage pathway of another area and you are vigilant of roof water runoff and your snow melts would slope away from structure.
I'm an executive chef at Wendy's making $16/hr., and I can tell you without a doubt that OP is only here hoping to hear the easy answer, so anything telling him that he'll have to put in actual work or money and he's going to get pissy again.
I didn't get pissy before, I was just pointing out that there are a lot of old log cabins that are still standing strong despite not having the best foundation out there. So there either must be some trick that they did or it must not matter that much to a log cabin. If I wanted to hear the easy answer I would just do slab on grade concrete, the fact that I'm building a solid masonry foundation from fieldstone gathered on my property is not easy, even if it was only a few feet high. But I do not have enough stone to do a solid 8 foot high foundation.
The soil up here is very sandy and gritty, which is why agriculture in the UP never really took off. There's shit tons of stone in the soil as well. As for the groundwater, I have yet to drill a well or even look into hiring someone yet, but neighbors in the area report that it's about 40 feet down. My property is varied a lot in terrain; a creek runs through the middle of my property which forms a nice flat flood plain with grasses, then it rises to a very wooded hill (goes from about 400 ft elevation at the creek to 560 feet within about a 100 yards) with lots of conifers and on the other side is a still relatively flat woods of mostly birch and maple.

I'm not a geologist or a forester, but I've heard that conifers like well-drained soils. I'm not sure what effect the creek and elevation changes have on the groundwater/soil composition, but I'd prefer to build somewhere on the high ground to avoid any chance of the creek flooding my cabin anytime soon.
To add to this, this structure doesn't have to last until the end of time. It's just going to be a hunting cabin that I'll stay in a few months out of the year. But this is actually something of a test run for me, I plan on buying some land out in the bush of Alaska in a few years and building my own cabin out there. But before I pay a bush pilot to drop me off in the middle of nowhere with nothing but an axe and a shovel, I want to get a lot more confident with the building skills I'll need. I'm sure I could easily just bury a couple 20 foot logs and use them as piers and the thing would be fine, but I would ultimately like to build my forever home with a solid stone foundation which is why I would really like to work on those skills now while I'm still within distance of civilization.

these are just the weirdest people on the planet, how do you get to a place where using a toilet in an open area of your house and making the house smell like a toilet is acceptable ??
273 replies and 54 images omitted. Click here to view.
You didnt huff jenkem back in the day?
I use lotion treated hand sanitizer.
These fuckers take for fucking ever to shoot up.

I just need to take a fucking shit and this bitch is in there for like 15 minutes.
>the origin of jenkem
If they're constipated I don't think they want to have to bite down on aluminum tubing... Try soft wood.

File: 7402970.jpg (3.2 MB, 3267x2178)
3.2 MB
3.2 MB JPG
AKG 612 wire replacement
Anyone know how I can replace the wires in my headphones? What sort of equipment and materials will I need ? I've never really done anything like this before but I'd like to give it a go.
1 reply and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
man wtf
if you need that screw on adapter, buy one of the akg replacement wires for the 7xx series and cut of the xlr plug
There are knockoffs but the original akg wire is just a nice one.
if you dont need that just buy a wire with preattached 3.5mm jack

to dissemble the akgs, the grey perforated disk has to be removed. this thing twists on and you can remove it with two pins stuck in the holes or a marker compass or whatever
you can find service manuals from AKG for those models, or at least for the K601 which is close enough

IIRC, to replace the wire you only need to unclip the chrome cap, which you can do by rotating it
best way is to use 2 toothpicks and shove them in the holes in opposite sides, and use that to spin the cap

once that's done you should find some screws and the rest of the plastic covers will unclip without much effort
forgot to mention after disassembly, then just de-solder the wires and replace the cable

any 3-wire cable will work, you can find them at audio stores, as well as a 3.5mm or 6.3mm jack, depending on your preference

then just solder the cable to the headphones and plug, not rocket science

if the cable diameter is similar to the original, you might also be able to re-use the original strain relief by carefully cutting it and peeling it off, and then wrapping it around the new cable
otherwise, just tie the cable in a knot on the inside so it doesn't pull on the solder joints
This, construction looks pretty similar to a K701. Just rotate the silver caps with a pair of pliers carefully, disassemble and solder on new wires.

File: uti.jpg (66 KB, 1022x536)
66 KB
Fag school or do they deliver on their promises?
>We'll help you find a job!
>Job gauranteed
>We'll retrain you in case the industry changes
I'm pretty sure it's just a scheme to get as many students as possible and not train a single one to be career ready in 2 years or less.
I've heard before that they create the most worthless students that a school could ever create.
Just had a chat with an admissions officer. They claim that these opinions came from "online trolls" and "students that were kicked out".
Pure bullshit school for a pure bullshit career. Don’t waste a single minute on becoming a mechanic. Find a unionized trade and start your apprenticeship.
There’s a major shortage of mechanics. Big companies are hiring anyone with a pulse and paying them to learn on the job. Some of these programs even gift you your full set of tools at graduation. DO NOT pay to become a mechanic in current year, THEY have to pay YOU.
How? People have been pushing trades since 2008. Are they really in this amount of demand still?
File: 1550285534901.jpg (311 KB, 1141x1200)
311 KB
311 KB JPG
Where do I go to find one of these?
Fleet maintenance is the ONLY way to make it as a mechanic. Like any business the money you make is based off the money the client has. If the client is a old lady with a corolla then you make little. If the client is a multi billion dollar construction company then you make a lot.

File: eftouidfsh.jpg (237 KB, 1304x1212)
237 KB
237 KB JPG
3 ft of copper pipe 1/2 : 4.30 usd
4 tee fittings: 5 usd
6 end caps: 2.40 usd
2 bronze (leaded) 90s: 1.50 usd
2 copper 90s: 1.50 usd
15 usd total

Won't rust. Easy to clean with acid. Anti-bacterial.
Fuck china jew
35 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
>they'll never rust
Corrode then. Sorry in my language we use "rust" and "corrosion" interchangeably.
The problem with rusted iron is that it keeps rusting further and further under the rust until it eats everything away.
This does not happen with copper - the patina that forms on top protects the non-oxidized copper under it.
technically true, however it will tarnish and that tarnish is going to stain the fuck out of your towels.
Yes, but muriatic acid fixes it fast and easy. Compare that to steel.
Nah, it didn't. Because I'm using this thing for idk, 10 months no.

File: maxresdefault (1).jpg (87 KB, 1280x720)
87 KB
I have an insulated hoodie from LLbeans that I just love,
The cuffs are getting worn out though.
Can these be replaced?
Would an alteration shop do this cheaply?
Would it be easy to do myself ? I have access to an old sewing machine but it seems tricky to work it.
61 replies and 9 images omitted. Click here to view.
>"elites", would buy shitloads of LL Bean stuff from thrift stores and return it for the full price.
why they would do this?
You dont like a nice brapski after a hard days work?
Why so? I remember trying to make a sleeping bag one and quilting the fill was a bit perplexing.

You could try getting flat batting, if that helps, but I don't know what your issue is or if that is proper.
Biggest problem is I don't know what I'm doing...just kinda winging it and went for it. It's also a silk lining, and I'm finding it difficult to work with.

I got it on though. Overall it fits pretty good, the collar is a little goofy but oh well. I'm casting some buttons for it right now then I'll be done.

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.