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I am trying to bleed the clutch on a 2010 tacoma 2.7. Every single how to video of this make model and engine shows the master cylinder beside the brake master. It is NOT there on this truck. Here are examples of how to videos showing the master cyl
Every how to video I find shows the resivious and master cyl right there in front of the firewall, regardless of engine size or year. I followed the line from the slave cyl up the engine bay into the firewall... no way you have to tear apart the dash to top off fluid so wtf? Plz help. Pic is where it isn't
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Pressure bleeding from the slave cylinder up sometimes works. What sayeth Toyota forums?
Are you able to see your master cylinder under the dash? I had a 93 Ford ranger that had the slave cylinder mounted at a pretty steep angle and it wouldn't build pressure while bleeding it. Ended up having to remove the piston from the cylinder and using a syringe to fill it up, worked just fine after that. I think there are some master cylinders (like my rangers) that are designed to be bench bled.
If you have to bleed your clutch master cylinder you probably have a leak in it.
Check the firewall inside the car and see if there is fluid running down the pushrod.
lmao I know for a fact at least mustangs had entirely mechanical clutches (cable) until 2005. Wouldn't surprise me if other cars still had them too.
Find your clutch pedal. What is it pressing?

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I want to make a dehumidifier for a small amount of chemical/plastic (1kg or less), likely using a (thermoelectric) heat pump in it somewhere, if only to be more efficient than a heater. The pictured style of liquid desiccant dehumidifier is a design I'm strongly considering, though I imagine it will be more complex. With peristaltic pumps hopefully I can avoid corrosion. Otherwise I may make a dry desiccant rotor, or just have a self-enclosed box where heated air flows over the substance and back over the cold side.

Thermoelectric isn't the only option, I could try a small compressor or try to make a stirling engine, but that's just making things bulky and complicated.

Anyhow, my main question is with regards to heat pump topology. I was originally just going to pipe the cool fluid past the hot side of the heat pump, and the warm fluid past the cold side of the heat pump, but a lot of these diagrams I see have a heat exchanger before this (circled in red).
Does this kind of heat exchanger make it more efficient? Does it depend on the kind of heat pump I use? Is the extra complexity worth it? I can't search for it because "heat pump" and "heat exchanger" are terms loaded with HVAC implications. This is not an HVAC thread.
>Does this kind of heat exchanger make it more efficient?
i'm presuming relatively warm vapour absorbtion thingy from the right in deep blue must be cooled down to make the vapour in the air on the left condense and vice versa, which is done with both the heat exchanger and an extra cooler. you need to actively cool and heat less with a heat exchanger so yes it will be more efficient but to what degree i'd really need more information
and i really hate psychrometrics, always have.
>i'm presuming relatively warm vapour absorbtion thingy from the right in deep blue must be cooled down to make the vapour in the air on the left condense and vice versa
Yes, the dehumidifying action requires cold concentrated desiccant solution, while the re-concentration of the desiccant requires that that dilute desiccant solution is heated.

>you need to actively cool and heat less with a heat exchanger
Yes but if you send a heat differential into a reversible heat-pump (like a peltier) and use that heat-pump to reduce the heat differential (i.e. equalise the temperatures) that heat-pump will act as a heat engine and produce power, not consume it. Obviously it will generate less power than is maximally possible, but it would offset some of the energy costs of the heat-pump as compared to just wasting that heat differential on the heat exchanger.

Maybe it's technically more efficient but the process of generating power from the heat differential makes the temperature equalisation significantly less effective? If I had a good model for a peltier I could simulate it.

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is this the most important tool for the modern /diy/er?
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>he doesnt use pliers to hammer in nails
Why are clamps so expensive btw?
> using a plier instead of the fork trick
>everyone saying brain
pft, its your hands.
I've seen plenty of DIYers without brains, but I haven't seen any without at least 1 hand.
My crescent hammer, channel lock hammer, needle nose hammer, and screwdriver prybar are all I need

Preparations for the German Brewing Contest from the Störtebeker Brewery have begun, topic is 21B New England IPA

Also on a related note, my Kentucky Common was rated 4 out of 5 stars by a beer sommelier, claiming it was better than many commercial beers he had. Pic related.

Last thread: >>2615584

Here's the rest of the general:
General calculators:
https://fermcalc.com/FermCalcJS.html (the best one)

Others: https://www.brewersfriend.com/abv-calculator/

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I did taste, didn't seem off but not great either, it stayed with the ginger hop this whole time so I guess you could call it sour
it formed inside the bottles as well and there is little bit visible floaters around
can you show an example of what you mean?
Nta but brettanomyces infection can look like that and is sometimes used for sour beer. Does it smell of a barnyard (or band-aids)?
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got an irish red going, all out of wirlfloc but that's alright. hit my pre-boil sg dead on, should come out to 4.7%
Bottled almost 10L of anise-cinnamon-molasses herb wine with a bit of ginger and bourbon vanilla. It’s still kinda sweet since I overdid the SG but the taste of the spices is pretty well pronounced still, a bit like sweet liquorice at first then a slight gingery aftertaste. 17.8% abv.

Is there anything that will make it taste less sweet without making it too sour?
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I feel your pain anon. I apparently did not seal my all-rounder of mead and got an explosion. It is sealed now and pressure fermenting happily.

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>be mechanic, drivetrain specialist
>test driving customer vehicle
>vibration at highway speeds
>to merge on highway jump on throttle to match speed
>merge in, leave off throttle to just maintain speed (about 60mph)
>peddle is stuck full throttle let's fucking go
>turn key off
>turn hazards on
>safely coast with light brake pressure to the side of the road
>find plastic engine cover stopped throttle linkage from returning closed
>remove it place on passanger floor
>remember that Toyota recall about floor mats holding pedal to the flpor
>why didn't they just shut the car off like I did
>oh... Panic, I panicked for a second
Can you shut off push button starts? Even if you can, is it as intuitive? Because panic happens. And is it as immediate? Are these push button joints death traps? Pic is just a recent alignment I did. I normally try to get perfect but he was a waiter
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I agree. My wife put her purse on a shelf that was on a shared wall with the garage. Right on the other side of that wall was our HRV. It was close enough that he keyless entry would work but it wouldn’t start.
No offense but I’m having a hard time buying your moms story. What make and model?
>No offense but I’m having a hard time buying your moms story. What make and model?
Toyota Rav 4. Maybe she had the keys in her jacket pocket, started it then decided she wanted to change to a different jacket. Its been a while back so I dont remember exactly what she said. All i know for sure is she went to eat at a restaurant in the next town over (15 miles or so away) and called saying she must have left her keys at the house. I found them and luckily we were having propane delivered by the co-op that is close to where she was eating. So I handed the keys off to Frank the propane truck driver and he handed them off to my mom at the restaurant. Lol. The perks of living in small town america...
Even better is literally just push the clutch first and think about what you're going to do
You could even shift to a lower gear and still drive at safe speeds, not great for the engine but if you absolutely needed to stop somewhere else safe you could do it (e.g. if this happened in the middle of a busy major intersection and you wanted to get out of the middle of 8-16+ lanes of traffic before stopping).
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pic related to the thread I swear on god my boi dindu nuffin and FORD lobbied Biden in to bring hoards of shitskins in to lease a brand new shitbox built by the usual suspects in Detroit and Ive had ford shitbox do a run away on me and panicked.
Holy fucking shit op you're a goddamn dumbass. killing the engine=killing power steering/brakes.Throw it in neutral and get off the road, fuck the goddamn engine. fucktards like you that call themselves "mechanics'' should be put in the fucking oven.

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any good deals here? never been
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I went in during covid with my kid and they told us she had to leave because she wasn't 18.
I was completely astounded by this, never heard of such a thing.
Anyways I never went back, plenty of other places to buy knockoff power tools shit and cheap Chiner garbage.
I think 'nards is British slang for a scrotum, e.g.,
"It's so cold, me 'nards have shriveled up!"
Is menards like the bass pro shops or cabellas of a hardware store? I went to a cabellas when i was a young buck and never forgot it.
10% back. Lumberyard is reasonable, it's kind of in between a dedicated home builder's yard and retail. They're better than HD, Lowes, and Ace but worse than all the specialty shops.

No it's the walmart of hardware stores. Cabellas are a 3 story camping gear carnival.
Love Menards for building materials. Not so much for tools. They tend to have a lot of cheaper off brands, though that seems to be getting better. Went through the hardware dept for the first time in a while and they had some Milwaukee, Kregs and Bessey stuff.

For actual building materials, they just have a ton more on hand than HD or Lowes. You can literally pull up with a couple trailers and drive out a few hours later with everything to build a home. No one else seems to keep trusses and big LVL on hand ready to go. They're also the only big box with outdoor lumber yards around here.

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Is there a router bit for a dremel-like with these measurements?
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Some advice, ask yourself if you really need something that thin and couldn't do it better with a table saw using the kerf width. Tiny bits like those break if you even look at them too hard. Make sure and have an extra or two on hand before you start.

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if i have a fireplace, why do i need a chimney? can i make something like this that will let the smoke out to the side?
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you'll also need a ventilation port to feed outside air straight into the fireplace otherwise it'll just be sucking out warm air from inside the house and sucking in cold air from outside the house to feed the fire.
Why do Black people assume they're in the majority?
can't burn books or corpses in a wood stove.
>I'm not turning gammy into pellets for a wood stove.
American education, everyone

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i need to fix a second hand mower, problem is the deck belt keeps twisting and going off the pulley + catastrophically getting jammed between the brake and pulley.
Today i dismantled the deck, checked all bolts and belt retainers, adjusted the tensioner and brakes and after all that it mowed for 5 minutes before it jammed again.

It is this style deck, with the middle shoot, opposed blades and twisted v belt
Does anyone know what could be off here?
Is this just a pos design i should not waste my time on?
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when the deck has been used, do the bearing heat up? A symptom of over-tightening?
as visible in the video the pulleys cannot be aligned by design
it is a twisted belt that runs on two different levels
>Are any of the pulleys warped or bent?
ive observed like 1mm runout on one on the outside. this doesnt tell shit about the v groove thou
it cant run long enough to check, over tightening is impossible since the tension-er is a spring

this might sound like im a dick, but im really not looking for general answers that google shits out. im asking about the specifics of this deck design since i know we have small engine guys here
a new belt is 80€ and i paid like 250 for the mower, so dont want to buy one if its not the issue
You don't have the belt running correctly or you are twisting it the wrong way. Check the diagram and try again.
i have, just like in the video. diagramm doesnt exist. with the belt V being in the pulley v there is no other way to insert it
Is the belt you mention falling off a new belt? Pulling from my ass, maybe the belt is a particular angle for that 180 spin and you bought the wrong belt. Also get a crapsman mower, fuck whatever that is.

Based utilitarianism or cringe modernity?
There are some interesting stain options which make improve it so it doesn't look like a street.
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>Let's create more surface area so we can spend more time cleaning.
Goodness. That lip and those grooves are just mold and bacteria farms. Fuck cleaning that shit.

I am a big fan of smooth. It's easy to clean so shit doesn't build up. All those crevices and grooves are a fucking meme. Double well sinks are another meme too. I will concede that it is a beautiful countertop and the grooves and lip are aesthetic.
I'm calling it now, epoxy is the next asbestos
I'll stick with formica thanks
>I do admit that I am a bit of a violent cook, when I cook I cook fast and things do get dropped on occasion.
what in the fuck do you arcade claws for arms
You red pilled me on engineered quartz and performed sinks. I am going that route. Thanks!

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I've always said I wanna make a pallet shack. Take free pallets at work and make a shack out of them. I did. For free. No power tools. All I bought was a box or two of nails. Used a hammer saw pry bar and a hand drill. It's functional. Mostly waterproof. Right now I put my garden tools in there on a bench.
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This cuck shed sucks, where's your nintendo switch and minifridge filled with beyond burgers and diet store brand cola.
That's the fun part about not using power tools, your straight cuts aren't very straight

We'll see. It withstood wind that broke corn stalks. But we'll see how it takes Wisconsin winter. And if I try to improve it, I'm gonna just rebuild it. It doesn't look great yeah but it's good enough one for a first attempt at making a structure definitely learned lessons.
The main problem in winter will be icy snow putting a lot of weight. The flat design can't handle it so well. even a slight slope in 1 direction would be good, and easier to clean snow off off. IDK how you made the walls but honestly if you found a solid cover like plaster that you can paint people might not even notice lol. 3rd world problems require 3rd world solutions.
I wouldn't live in it myself but good for you for doing something we've all thought about
some halo 3 custom games looking shit

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Posting this here since /adv/ is useless. I'm 23 and I want to work in construction/repair. What skill should I learn? I have only ever worked in a factory and as a sales clerk in a supermarket. I live in Belgium to give you some context on the union laws and job market. So yeah, I have no idea no where to start or what to expect. I also have no technical background whatsoever other than that it seems interesting to me and I would like to learn about it.
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take night classes, start there, and continue of you enjoy it. there's a very low barrier to entry on most construction jobs.
Just do it.
I see, anything in particular? Masonry? carpentry? circuitry?
tf you asking me for? pick something you think you'll like.
Is that Frankenchinks Monster?
That's a man who was more based than you could ever possibly dream to be

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Where to start if I want to build a submarine?
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add airbags for emergency resurfacing

"Needlessly prioritizes passenger safety over commercial innovation".
>no reverse image results
Can anyone tell me what this is? I doubt it's OC.
by learning to dive
you need to go deeper

How do i minimize turbulence between two pc fans in series? I need more static pressure for my pc exhaust fans because the case does not have proper intake fan and have heavy dust filters. In theory stacking two fans together will double the static pressure when the airflow stays the same. As far as i know there should be some breathing room between the fans and you dont want to stack them directly on each other. But the question is shoud there be some kind of channels or fins between the fans to make airflow more laminar and efficient?
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So turn the exhaust fans into intake fans. It's as simple as flipping the fans over.
>positive pressure
>air sucked in
Whoever made that image is kinda stupid.

Maybe, but they are just saying that the fans pull air in to create positive pressure pushing into the case, and the other one has fans pulling air out creating negative pressure that pulls air in. The whole point that escaped your nappy head is that one filters the air going in and the other does not.
if you dont give a shit how it looks, set up a 20" box fan with an ac filter and make a cardboard manifold to the front of the case...you definitely won't need a 2nd fan...keep the back covered when its off and dust wont be able to get in
flip each of the fans so the exhaust becomes an intake and vice versa
also, take it to the stupid questions thread on /g/, this is a stupid question about technlogy

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Scenario: You are one of the lucky few Americans who, after trying for three fucking years, finally purchased the rarest and most sought-after Halloween decoration in the country, straight off of the goddamned truck: the Home Depot 12' Skeleton
Environment: Nice house in the suburbs, but they're 11% of the population
Task: Defend the skeleton
Safety Protocols: Nothing obviously illegal
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>i sat at the bar and let a man tell me how big his bone is
I'd never get one of these as I generally don't decorate at all, and storing it the rest of the year would be miserable. But in an alternate timeline where this was not true, I would absolutely build an animatronic setup and track for it so it would walk around the backyard and stick its head out over the gate and scream at people they came near.
holy shit fuck shut the fuck up you gigantic bore
Sprinkler system full of hot sauce.

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