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I have a yuropoor coffee machine that I want to run off my 240V stove outleti, so I'm thinking of making an extension cord ending in a box with two outlets, one for the 14-50 plug off the stove, and one for the coffee machine (and a 15A breaker wired with the coffee machine's plug, in case something stupid happens).

Can I use a basic 120V plug and outlet (which I already have lying around) for that part? Lop the weird euro-plug end off the power cord and replace it with a normal one. Or does it actually need to be a 240V plug/outlet (which I don't already have and would have to buy)? Are 120V-rated connectors actually at risk of arcing through their insulation if they have 240V pushed through them? I haven't looked up NEMA standards or insulator breakdown voltage yet because I'm lazy.
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Do you have no outlets in the rest of your entire house? Like wtf. Why do you HAVE to tap off this outlet in particular?
This should never happen.

Does your North American house have 240v running to every outlet?
Fuck, I should sleep. I accidentally a word, and I'm from EU.
So I guess it doesn't matter what the voltage on a single wire is, only the difference between the two that are connected.

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I have land that I recently procured in my home town that I grew up in. Turned down countless opportunities to move other places for more money. 2020-present has seen a huge influx in yankee retirees moving to the reddest part of the state (here). One of these retards from long island moved and overpayed a lot for the land next to me, and has been constantly bitching about me shooting. He has also been driving by my house in town (rental) doing burnouts and driving slowly by the property as soon as I park there. The retard has been ridiculously nosey while I clear for my land. This has gotten to the point of annoyance, and he has zero legal standing on how and when I shoot. Even in Jew York, he still doesn't have a right, as I'm more than 500 yards away from any structure. /DIY/, I am asking of legal ways to annoy the fuck out of him, so he will either move or quit annoying me.
>in b4 go talk to him
Tried to be nice, even went over there and introduced myself. His back handed remarks and sense of superiority (loser union truck driver, boomer) is somewhat hard to deal with.
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Holy fuck these are loud, all OP has to do is get them going consistently in the middle of the night and those retirees will be having strokes soon
1.) Drop an old trailer on your property as close to his house as you can
2.) Rent trailer to niggers
3.) Profit???
4.) After he moves burn the trailer down
>Also spread some gravel where he does the burnouts.
spread tar instead, he will have loads of fun trying to clean that shit off
Seconding the chickens, but get normal hens and mate them to a fighting rooster so they can take care of themselves. Then build something for them to nest on about 9 feet above the ground, with wire on the bottom that they shit through. Easy source of guano fertilizer.

You could also build a pigeon coop at about the same height for squab and more guano. They'll root around in his garden.

Put up cameras all over your property so you can bust his ass on the chance he likes to steal, then let the cops deal with it.

Other than that invest in a really loud engine and rev it early in the morning and on weekends. Have barbeques and parties.

Also have you considered having the local romeo fuck his wife, and then let him know about it (ideally with video evidence)? Property gets sold in a divorce.
Isn't step 5 burn? Step 4 is evi---

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Hey /diy/ I need to get back at some roommates. They fucked with my tools while I was out at uni and that was the last straw. They're all iPhone normies who trash the kitchen and smoke weed and are generally annoying. What are some /diy/ solutions to get back at them?
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That's kinda sad anon
disco de meo
Insulate the walls with pennies
They’ll have no clue why their hands keep smelling metallic
OP.. just next time get a metal cabinet or just a cabinet with a lock and keep the key..
Trow a cup full of some liquid at them when they least expect it and also make them accidentally sit on feecees.

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I want to be able to carve and frame the lumber, lay the bricks of the archway, install the piping, install the electric, maybe even at the schematic level, not entirely by myself but at least be capable of lending a hand. Do I really have to be shoehorned into one trade for work for the rest of my life?
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>Do I really have to be shoehorned into one trade for work for the rest of my life?
No, most trades can be learned "good enough" with a few years of experience in each, but if you actually want to make money someday you'll have to pick at least one thing you can focus on
How do they figure out the right prescription glasses for toddlers?
optometry is white collar
I didn't get glasses until I was 16, only because I failed the vision portion of my drivers test. Blows my mind that kids had glasses before me
>How do they figure out the right prescription glasses for toddlers?
Autorefractors. The whole "number 1 or number 2" is just to confirm the numbers the autorefractor spits out.

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I if buy gupsium wall (eu standard) Can I cut it in half at the store for easier transportation or would that ruin it?
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>starting a thread for a retarded question when there's literally a thread for retarded questions.
pros will bitch about how if joints aren't lapped it will later cause crack where a row of joints on same joist carries a bit more weight and not lapped, that that is splitting hairs IMO and it will only be hairline crack 20yrs from now if ever, and only if joist is weak AF.

Yes, its OK to cut for transport just bit more work. I've had to cut just to get up narrow winding stairs even though it was full size room.
No, once you break the paper barrier- gypsum starts rotting almost immediately. By the time you home it will be unusable as it will emit foul gypsy odors
If you're buying one sheet to patch a hole - sure, no problem, but if you're buying fuckton to cover up walls - better hire a truck, it would be cheaper than dealing with increased amount of joints, which might lead to more cracking.

Btw, if you're fixing a hole, you should consider getting setting type joint compound (powder, basically plaster with additives), because it is stronger, doesn't shrink as much and ready in 20 minutes to re-coat.
>Chinese gyp board makers laugh nervously.

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While water based solar heat exchangers are way more efficient than fotovoltaic solutions, passing pipe outside, plus the fact that it can get really cold outside where I am (making heat losses important even in case of ample winter sun) I'd like to devise a cheap fotovoltaic solution that does not involve batteries, or MPPT chargers.

The idea is to load a few solar panels unto a nichrome wire coil wrapped around the inlet copper pipe of the electric water boiler.
in order not to short the nichrome wire, a thermal pad used for mosfet would be wrapped around the copper.
Finally some thermal insulation around the exchanger, plus a thermostat disconnect in case of local overheat of the copper pipe so as not to melt the pipe soldering.

The nichrome resistance would be matched so as to obtain the solar panel Ipower_max current at full clear day solar output, normal to the solar panel surface.

Would put 6 50W solar panels in series so as to lower ohmic losses and get around 110V DC open circuit.

My main problem is to estimate at what temperature should the device disconnect.
too low and power will be wasted, too high and even if the solder does not melt, heat transfer could be too high and drive the water inside the boiler up to boiling point.

It's a 1200W for 100 litres boiler.
worst case scenario is nobody at home and full sun during summer solstice.

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Who ever wired that electric shower head is a genius. With 3 wires there are 3 chances to get electrocuted but two wires means only two chances to get electrocuted. That's 33% safer.
I think ideally you just have a seperate shower that uses solar heating and when you need warm water you get it from somewhere outside.. it means no insane plumbing needed.. It's the most cheapest and efficient option.. the cleanest option is however still just go get enough solar to do over production and depending on where you live your energy meter essentially counts backwards.. you absolutely will want to not put back any over production over your total usage cost back into the grid though.. you probably wanna store that and use it for shower heating and all this intensive stuff or for bad days with sun...

The latter is absolutely not cheap or very time intensive and risky if done DIY but the longevity is worth it.
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would you?
Looks like a nice safe recessed plug with ground contacts. No problem there.

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How can I build a cryocooler? I need it to produce liquid oxygen for my diy rocket. Can I just use regular peltier cooling element?
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>I need it to produce liquid oxygen for my diy rocket.

YWNDI because you had to ask here. You can order LOX Dewars from your local industrial gas supply and Western sells whips and fittings which are cleaned to "oxygen safe" standards.
Cryocoolers are used in cell towers. There are thousands of them and most are unattended.
In many countries you need a permit to make LOX. It is more dangerous than people realise. About half the people react hysterically to this bit of information, and then we don't ever hear from them again.
I would normally advice you to pack your toothbrush, but seeing as you have not returned to this thread and it is 6 days old, I can only assume the party van has backed up to your house already.
OP was larping as usual since serious rocketeers goto fucking rocket groups not 4chan. Anyone so stupid as to not know those exist is too stupid for rocketry.
peltier will not reach the levels you need.. nor will it be useful in producing liquid nitrogen.. expect to have compressors.. moisture traps and more..

There are videos on youtube of people describing building them.. complex.. energy intensive.. expensive.. with a lot you can screw up.

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>want to start an orchard
>land far away from plumbing
>way down south in the land of traitors rattlesnakes and alligators
>literally turns into a desert for 2-3months
Plan is to get picrel, small solar panel, battery and a pump. Have it water new trees until they establish.

How do I keep algae from growing in the tank? Is there a plant safe biocide I can add to the water?
I'll paint it to keep the light out.
Should I stick a UV-C aquarium light in? Needs to be low power because solar only.

Already managed to establish figs in the area because figs don't give a shit about lack of water. But I want peaches, poms and other shit too.

>inb4 full IBC of water weighs over a ton
Not a problem
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Technically, figs are not fruits. Just flowers packed into a modified stem. They're even pollinated by a particular wasp. Kinda cool, really. Keep that in mind if you want to pollinate them.
Aren’t you a bit old and rich for all of this DIY stuff, mick?
ive seen them lined with carboard beer boxes instead of paint
>figs are not fruits
Well I'll be. I learned a thing. Today's started out great!
pro-algae thread

I'm thinking paint it black and an old tarp then piece of plywood to keep tarp in place and serve as handy table to keep stuff off the dirt.

Sun will attack most cheap paint and plastic pretty quick, tarp is replaceable and multi-use.

I have a light switch already installed. Im adding a 2nd switch off this power for some extra recessed led lamps. How does the hot wire lead into two switches properly? Or what is the name I search for it? Thanks
You should not be switching the neutral wire, or else the light will still be energized when it appears to be off. If you stuck your finger in the outlet while off you would still get zapped. You need to run romex from the switch (presumably it has both hot and neutral in the box, hot goes through the switch and neutral is just wire nutted together) to your new switch, then do the same thing in the new box. Hot goes through the switch, neutral is wire nutted to the keg that goes to the lights themself. You need to tap off the hot before it goes through the switch of course, unless you want the old switch to also switch off the new light.
3 way and 4 way switches

How useful is an arbor press for automotive work? Wheel bearings and the like.

I've been fighting with wrist pins for the past day and I only have 1 out. I need a press, and I dunno if an arbor press would be good enough.
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The bottle jack in the harbor freight press broke a seal and leaked hydraulic fluid the first time trying to use it. God damn it.
Good morning Grayson!
A cheap Harbor Freight hydraulic press will do but your local auto machine shop will have a proper piston holding fixture or a pin removal tool. What does the manufacturer of your mystery engine recommend?

Smart move is take them there. Experienced mechanics and machinists know when to outsource to finish the task so they do.

If you buy a press bigger is always better and of course used is fine. I also accumulated mechanical arbor presses which are handy but one's main press should be hydraulic.
Bleed it first, before thinking it’s a bad seal
I took the jack apart, the seal was blown apart.

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ITT: Post your three most used tools, other try to guess what your trade is.
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applebee's cook
Day trader
shipping container
imitation crab meat
>Door pick
>11 in 1 screwdriver

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Last Thread: >>2465296

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5
>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-20-2021]
Under 250 USD: kingroon KP3L, Sovol sv01, Creality Ender 3 (v2), Anycubic Mega S
Under 500 USD: Qidi X-One2, Creality CR-10, Anycubic Vyper, Prusa Mini,

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CA glue of color, you bigot.
what a disappointment I thought it was gonna be a pen plotter for this thread.
should have been in new op
update cura to a version with arachne, enable it and never look back.
If this is with enabled arachne slicing, then your model is fucked.
You're doing God's work.

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Have any of you ever tried to build a Water Rowing Machine?

I'm not sure if it's worth the trouble of DIY.
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no, bought one a few years ago while suffering a period of mental and economic retardation
planning on adding another belt with auto neutral gear from a bicycle to connect a alternator for a while now
maybe the depression ceases someday in the future so i will actually do it and brush the dust off that rowing machine
That is great advice anon, but the rower is a cardio machine. I have a problem in the feet that do not allow me to run safely, so I either get a pool to swim or row
A salad spinner
Some jello
A skateboard
And lots of duct tape
If you gotta ask a question like this, then you def won't build one as finely crafted as a Concept2 RowErg, the standard for gym rowers.
If your goal is to cheaply row, buy a gym membership. If your goal is to get good at rowing, buy a RowErg. If your goal is a challenge, this isn't it.
what are you the president

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Are there any free construction plans online of sailing yachts preferable of a gaff cutter?
yes. google it and you might even find some, retard.

Afternoon lads,

What kind of valve is this? It came off of an old motorcycle gas tank that I assume is custom. I've looked everywhere both online and in hardware stores. Any info helps.
Looks lika a needle valve
Looks like a home depot special
looks like garbage
get an actual fuel petcock
That's not motorcycle parts but a bunch of standard fittings..Post pic of the tank where the assembly mounts. (The actual valve is the part with the T-handle.)

Next time post on chopper forums for custom bike stuff (even if not strictly chopper). Chop Cult is easily the best but Jockey Journal is also a goldmine. The last of the old chop builders hang out there and will recognize the tank if it's a collectible custom.

The tank bung threads are probably (you can take the tank to the hardware store to try fittings) 1/4" NPT if in US. There are MANY 90-degree chopper fuel valves for small money.


I'm a bike mech of many decades and strongly suggest finding owners groups and fora for anything you ride. That's saved me hundreds of hours and thousands of dollars. (I collect vintage British and HD but work on anything as it's all good.) Get a factory owners manual and parts catalog for your machine then for any potential parts donors. Most can be found as free downloads.
I've seen that aloe once. it's used for a copper line that connects a water supply to my refrigerator. it's the same size.

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