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Angle grinder thread Hilti v.Metabo v. Makita.
Which one make a better quality product? Is Metabo only good if you spend 300+ cause I don't want to do that.Is hilti actually shit cause they make the money on fleet services?
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again, forgot to mention something: there are no 5" grinders in my country.
also, from what I can see, you could even use variable speed grinders as polishers.
You sure that's for an angle grinder? With the size of that hole it looks like it might be for a bench grinder. Even if it is for an AG, you can find plenty of alternative wire wheels rated for over 11k.

They're usually advertised as 125mm, 4.5" are 115mm. It's not a huge deal if you can't get one but it will give you more disc options, unless you wanted to run larger ones without a guard.
heh, you are right, they are made for bench grinders, as are the other low speed accessories, including those polishing things. guess the angle grinder isn't as useful as I thought... :(
i just bought a refurbed on from ebay 7,5A
get a 5inch variable speed grinder.
example get the metabo one and u can buy 6 inch guard, thus can use 4.5 to 6inch. Thus u can use the ideal speed and not the max speed, and increase the wear of your abrasives. Get good abrasives from pferd,Norton,walther.

Would anyone here be able to identify the name for this type of adapter? It is attached to a small light fixture for reference.
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Literally just a 2 pin molex.
Jesus Christ you would think a company wouldn't be retarded enough to name every single one of its connectors as "OurCompany Connector"
This. That would be as stupid as referring to "Ford Trucks".
Wait till you get to Japan Solderless Terminal. (JST) It's fucking everywhere and just called JST.
Molex are a manufacturer of multiple plugs & sockets, not a single type of plug.

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Hello, a complete DIY noobie here.

I want to install a muay thai punching bag on the roof of my garage. The bag ways 100lbs and I'm wondering how can I find out if the roof supports the weight, and how best to install the hook?

I'll check out sticky and move this to a QTDDTOT though if any can help I'd be very greatful.
Presuming you have an ordinary garage, yes, the rafters can support 100 lb. It's better if you can divide the load across 2 or more rafters. Attach a beam between two rafters, and screw a decent-sized eye bolt into it. 3/8" is plenty. Wala.

If your rafters are 2x8 or more, you (((((could))))) screw an eye bolt right into one of them, but I'd still spread the load out.
I'll divide it by two rafters. Thanks a bunch.
If you're really going to town on it the rafters will actually a good deal more stress than 100lbs static weight. First check and make sure your attic isn't framed with trusses.

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Hi /diy/ ! I don't often come here, so I'm gonna try to go to the essentials !

So recently I draw on a toilet seat for fun (pic related), and turns out that a lot of people liked it, and ask me to do some for them.
So the thing is that the one that I got is supposed to stay on the wall, but people want them to actually use it. And that's the problem, because the ink will go away if you put your ass on it.

So, here's my question : what product would you advice to keep the draw intact, not dangerous for the skin (once it's dry) and let you clean the seat easily with no danger for the draw ?

Thanks in advance Anons !
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Thanks a lot gentlemen ! I'll go see what I can find tomorrow !
Fucking 3pic bro. Are you going to serve craft frenchfries and fried Beyond meat bug based chicken tenders with a side of ironic Frosted Flakes cereal on that. Simple perfect in every way. Plus 10 gold

Live, love, laugh and don’t let anyone judge you.
why do you hate fun
Can confirm, your current pens may have to change to stay crisp under any protection
Really great idea! You should experiment with it and may have a product people will buy! Maybe epoxy?

so i'm gonna try to make a gambeson
would it be possible to make it into a coat of plates/brigandine by putting plates inbetween some of the layers and riveted? how hard would it be to make them overlap so its harder to get inbetween them without losing flexibility?
does anyone have examples of this?
how would it turn out and would it really look that good?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
yea i think i'll just do that instead
it sounded better in my head
Some Gambesons had attachment points for plate but they didn't have plates woven into the material itself.
Sometimes they would have metal bars slipped into pockets along the arms to spread impact. But yeah attachment for plates and the occasional chainmail ribs n pits.
The chainmail was mainly to cover areas that didn't get covered by basic splint arm protection. Lighter than a full hauberk, and better protected than going without

If you're looking into a cheap renfair costume, jacklinks are easy to make and were all over the place.
However can't go wrong with a small plate over your heart just in case and fun. It's also a good place for prayers, lucky symbols, magic scrolls or sigils or portraits of your lady.

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I have this idea of taking a cheap chink scooter, stripping it down completely to its bare minimum frame and being able to just take it wherever I want in my car. Thing is I don't have a lot of space in my trunk, so is it possible to just be able to chop it in half by the frame?

That way I could just disassemble it quickly to put in my trunk in two pieces, then take it out of the trunk and then put it back together. Has this been done before?
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Biggest issue is throttle and choke cables, and electrical. Making the frame fold would be the best way to do it so it so you wouldn't need to disconnect these things.

That said this is a terrible idea and you will end up with a never finished project.
>>why isn't simple shitty tubing like this hacked together good enough?
>"death trap" in the listing title
You can make it like that and it will work, but it will not be very safe.
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Get pic related
>chink clones are cheap but actually good
>Parts readily available
>Over 80 million of those engines sold as genuine Honda, probably like a billion as clone
>is not a scooter
>Can be ridden without being a scooterfag
Ayy, Yuba fag here and that's in my marketplace feed as well

For a "compact scooter" solution for my job, I got a 50cc kid scooter for like $40, stripped the drivetrain and front fork to made a 3 ft long standup scooter with a handlebar I could unbolt and keep in my trunk.
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>this trigger /diy/ and toolfags.
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i have the older version that doesn't have the no impact modej just 3 speeds plus a slow start

i rarely have to grab my ryobi 18v, but when i do it's for lags and ledger locks and 5/8" x 8" GRK screws that you buy one at a time

i have one, it's ok, i use it with a grinding wheel to clean up cuts for the Chicago electric pro (blue) with the paddle switch, that way i'm not swapping out wheels constantly
corded VSR drill is lighter and has unlimited legs.

it's literally the first power tool anyone should get, spend like $30 on one
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Yeah baby
This thing's a beast.

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Looking to install an exhaust fan for my attic, was planning on getting this one here which is 10" and has 1500 cfms. After I duct it to the existing bathroom exhaust vent and install a humidistat it should hopefully be enough to get rid of some of the excess heat/humidity that will be trapped up in the attic this summer.

If you are blowing 1500 CFM out then you are drawing 1500 CFM worth of moisture, bugs, pollen, and spores into your attic.
>If you are blowing 1500 CFM out then you are drawing 1500 CFM worth of moisture, bugs, pollen, and spores into your attic.

But isn't an attic exhaust supposed to keep my attic a little cooler and lower my A/C bill?
Look at you ceiling insulation.
It can actually make it worse. If the living space is not well and truly sealed from the attic space it can draw the cool air from your house up into the attic. Well, if the air is being drawn out of the living space it has to be replaced from somewhere right? It will pull from outside the house and into your living space, making the problem worse.

Best option right here.

The general consensus, outside of dickhead contractors trying to make a buck, is that attic fans are only slightly helpful at the best of time, can be much worse in the worse of times, and I never better than properly sealing the living space from the attic and having enough insulation.

Now, whole-house fans are a different story. They can be very helpful in cooling off a house after the weather outside has cooled down. Just don't run them when it is still hotter outside than it is inside.

>After I duct it to the existing bathroom exhaust vent
Please do not tell me your existing vent is dumping directly into the attach and not outside of the house entirely.

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Does a quality multi-tool actually have any professional place on the job, or are they more of a novelty for EDC Joes to have on hand just in case?
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Its man jewelry
fuck insulated tools, no beginner should be working in a live box.

most of the time nobody should be working on a live box unless you are making an emergency fix on a nuclear reactor and shutting down is melting down.

getting killed to save your boss's customer some annoyance isn't worth it.
Based on your comment, it is clear that you are not an electrician. Good luck with your gender transition.
>Not the same picture rotated.
I used to carry one while doing landscaping and while doing construction labor. It was a good way to carry a bunch of tools that I didn't normally need, but occasionally used to deal with something unexpected. The guys who say that the multitools are inferior to a set of dedicated tools are correct, but they're better than nothing, and if you don't normally need a screwdriver or pliers, you don't want to keep them around on the off chance that you need them one time. It's a nice compromise.

how do i make a backpack frame out of wood and rope? i dont care if it is effective, i just wanna make it for fun
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what happened to you
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Mortise and tenon and braces
I think Felix Immler built a ruck from branches.
use that picture you posted as a guide start slapping rope around until it looks like a back pack, then stop.

How do you fix pic related blotchy primer? The stuff I used is quite thick and hard to apply, as it dries quite quickly and doesn’t smooth out easily when applying as it dries quickly.
I’m working on metal gates that are outside and have been rust treated. I’ve applied one coat of primer which is pic related, and I’m wondering if there’s any way to smooth out the primer so the paint looks better. My plan was to go over the rough and uneven surfaces with sand paper (220 grit?) and do a second coat of primer before letting it dry.

Am I unrealistic or is it unnecessary in trying to smooth out the primer? Am
I just wasting my time? I want to get a smooth finish on the metalwork, but if I can’t change much then I won’t bother
your second coat is gunna look just as bad i assume if you apply it in the same fashion as the first coat. if you cant apply a thinner coat, can you thin your paint?
I think my primer is oil based as I need to use white spirit to clean my paint brushes and it's something I considered, but my concern is that thinning it or messing with the paint will screw up the results or its outcome. The current primer has a similar viscosity to oatmeal, so it's not very runny and quite thick.
The plan at the moment is to sand down the primer until it's smooth and level and to touch up any exposed areas with a second coat of primer using a smaller paintbrush and gentler strokes to prevent more coverage. But is this possible? Can I sand it away like that or will it simply ruin the primer work?
OP here
I learned my mistake in applying primer and paint in general. I originally used a 30mm brush when applying the primer, and I didn't remove enough material before painting it on. I used a small roller to apply the actual paint which gave a much better finish, used less material, and took less time. I tried hand sanding the blotchy primer away with 180 grit, but it didn't really do much and only clogged up the sandpaper.
I'd just get a thinner, and a scrapper and start all over again.
grind it off and use rustoleum spraypaint, i did a rusty ass pole and it looks great now.

So I have this strange compulsion to build these little wooden battleships, destroyers, etc. but I have no idea what to do with them so /diy/ what should I do?
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Do hipsters even exist any longer? I almost never see the ridiculous keyrings, raybans, and skinny jeans paired with that unmistakable condesecending aura and love for "craft beer".
If you build it, they will come.
downtown austin.
9:00 am
Yup. First time I saw a double decker 10 speed since I left Portland ~6 years ago was 6th street in Austin like a month ago.
come up with tabletop game rules for them based on type and number of guns etc.

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Screened in porch.

Is this a diy job for the determined homeowner?

I have some experience woodworking and deck building with my Dad (a carpenter). I'm looking to build a roughly 16'x16' screened porch with an attached 8'x16' open deck similar to the pic. Estimates I got from contractors were in excess of $20k. I think I can do it myself for $7500 in materials and a few splinters.

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land of the free
Rent free, it seems.
I used to do these for Champion Windows.
They are super easy to do. the hardest part will be finding the material to do the frames and the screen door. Also getting the screen material started is a little tough since you are doing it vertical instead of horizontal... dont over tighten/stretch it.
He's dead
Well now I feel bad. It's called a lay-on roof or a california valley, Google will give you the information you need. Make sure to check your local codes when it comes sizing your rafters, it's largely dependant on snow load.

Stay inside, fly outside edition.

Previous thread >>1788147


In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?



> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Look at the Tyros, maybe a Tyro99. Pretty decent. Order from banggood.

There is no way to get a complete fpv setup at that price point.

In addition to goggles and aircraft you also need a transmitter and battery charger and often a few other odds & ends. Might be able to squeeze in under $200 or a bit less but your goggles are going to be trash.

No, it is not possible to get HD real time in that price range and also probably not possible to get HD dvr.
Going through a relatives box of unused parts, there is a few transmitters, most are 4-channel, but there are a couple of 6-channel -- which is better between a
>Esky ET6I
>Storm ST-06TX
for use with a drone? I haven't done anything with drones, but if these are feasible I might get a cheap one.

Possibly feasible but probably not worth the trouble. Definitely not worth it if they don't come with receivers. The receivers in question are not designed for use with quads so it could be somewhere between annoying and impossible to get them working.
Yeah, they come with receivers -- thanks for the heads up.

i’m planning to lay out xps in my crawl over the weekend. from the bottom of the sill to the floor is 32 inches. if i cut the sheets in half i’d have 24in by 8ft and i could leave a 4 inches top and bottom, maybe could foam there. is that ok because otherwise i’d have to cut the sheets horizontally and be left with 4ft sections and it would be twice as much work. i really can’t see cutting one whole sheet per 8ft either because it would waste a lot of material.
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just an update. i could have rented a tool that would be easier but the ramset is a must for the old walls that are uneven with mortar everywhere, etc. i had to fix my parents hvac pump today and buy some materials so i’m going to work more tomorrow. should have more information then
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the ramset worked great. i've got all the boards hung, still need to add blue cuck tape and spray foam, will do next weekend. i've got a few sheets left over and maybe should fill in some of the gaps at the bottom?
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for the most part i used 32 in boards that covered the whole wall.
Enjoy your raging inferno of a fire when it breaks out
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some small gaps at the bottom in few places. i'm still 24in below grade so i'm not even sure if it's necessary, though i have the material to do it. i would use adhesive here though.

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