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So, I want to etch this map design into some copper, with the lines being recessed and filled in later for better contrast, but i also want to do it big to avoid losing detail, approx 24 inch by 24 inches
What is my best course of action here? Photoetching? Paying for laser engraving?

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Got a crappy rolling computer desk/cart and am looking to make it look better and less rickety. As seen in the pic, the top has some raised spots and also appears to have a veneer of some sort?

I am planning on using my Ryobi 1/4" sander to make it roughly flat and spraying it with gloss black spray paint. I'm not looking for perfect, just something better unless this is a bad way to go about it. Also, the bottom shelf is bowed downwards, so I am planning on flipping it over.

Finally, I intend on drilling some small holes and adding #4 wood screws in strategic places to add some rigidity as whoever assembled this stripped out some of the screws in to the melamine board or whatever.

I'm new to this and trying to do it as cheaply as possible while looking somewhat presentable. Any advice would be very much appreciated!
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The bubbles are the wood chips coming unglued. Maybe you could flip it and fill the holes before you paint but I the bottom side is probably unfinished and won't paint well. I'd leave it.
Thats some MDF garbage right there. You'll have fun trying to secure it with #4 screws. As others have noted, its not worth the effort; but dowels and glue will do a better job.

you wont be able to fix that... when MDF gets wet and causes that shit, its basically trash. there is no fix. be glad it was free and you didnt actually pay for that cardboard shit

I've built extremely heavy subwoofer enclosures with 3/4" MDF....
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Me too, but I didn't use screws to keep it together. OP's desk is different material anyway. MDF is glued wood dust, this is glued wood chips.

Share your pallet wood projects, creations, ideas, thoughts, stories, etc.
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Thx anons, I forgot to get pics but seeing everyone play on them this weekend made it all worth the effort
design is nice but would look ten times better with nice hardwood
What are those things for?
Tried to read the thread but got lost.
They're cornhole boards for playing a game called cornhole. Basically you try to throw bean bags onto the board or into the holes. If the beanbag lands on the board you get 1 point, if it goes in the hole you get 3 points. Points cancel out, so for example if your team gets one in the hole and their team gets one in the hole, nobody gets any points. Same with landing on the board, if both teams land a beanbag on the board the points cancel each other out. Each player gets 4 beanbags to throw. First to 21 points wins, and if you go over 21 points you reset back to 15 until you get a perfect 21 points
This would go good at a deer lease or some place deep in the woods with a rustic setup

Looking for good A frame cabin plans. First time builder. Anything like this but free?:
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Yeah, OP here. Just want some references
I think he means he would like some floor plan ideas.
Can't decide between a loft or full second floor, and how to lay out a kitchen. Yeah.
Go with shed/monopitched roof instead. A frame benefits are not worth it
I take pity on you, Cleetus. Clickable links to hundreds? dozens? of pdf plans


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Redpill me on leatherworking. What are the best tools to get started on a budget? I want to eventually make a quiver, arm guard and leather grip for my bow, as well as some watch straps.
Awl, blunt needle, good thread, and probably a vise should get you somewhere. And something sharp to cut, of course.

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Let's say I 3D print this shape using PLA

How would I go about lining the inside walls, and bottom with silicone? I'm trying to make a holder of sorts. I can't really wrap my head around making a 3D silicone mold.

I 3D printed a O-ring mold for the top of the cylinder that works fine, but of course it was a no brainer because it's a flat piece, but I need lining throughout the whole cylinder

I feel like the answer is obvious but like I said I just can't wrap my head around it
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>adhesive that binds to ... silicone.
I wish you super good luck in that endeavor.
Some screws
Print a plug with a diameter 2mm less than the inside bore of your cylinder. Silicone caulk the inside of cylinder. Insert plug. Wait. Remove plug when dry.
Dip that shit in Flex Seal

liquid sil.

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Hey Guys-

So I have an upright piano from the 1920s that I refinished. It came out good and looks/sounds great!

The problem is I don't know how to play the piano and am too lazy to learn. I want to convert it into a old-timey player piano that can read .mid or whatever and play music all my itself.

My question is, what device should I use to 'strike' the piano keys? I'll need about 4.5 to 5 lbs of force on the piano key to make it sound halfway decent.

The original player pianos used a vacuum system to 'suck' the key rather than strike it. I was looking at solenoids, but they're expensive and Im a cheap bastard. Plus I like that 'Flight of the Bumblebee' song and they'd probably get pretty hot playing that non-stop. Compressed air with a syringe setup might be another option, but I don't want to deal with an air compressor or tank in my living room.

Well, you could try an Arduino and 88 motors, one for each key...
Wait for ladyboy Ada to make a "shield" for it.

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How do you get a job working with PLCs? I'm currently doing embedded programming and they seem to be an easy way to escape the hell of big city and move to more rural area, although the last time I was playing with them was at the University.
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I used to wrote shit code but I learned that if you sparate physical inputs/outputs from the main program and avoid using set/reset wherenever it's possible your life will become a lot easier and less stressful. Also making reusable function blocks can save you temendous amount of time.
What's wrong with Set/Reset?
Not him, but Set/Rest's can be risky, because if not written well, leaves an opening for something to get latched in in the software, and the guys on the line (or whatever the case is) having no idea why something wont work, because without looking in the PLC code, cant see anything out of place. Also, in a complicated piece of code, numerous sets/resets can just end up a jumbled mess. Depending on the aplication, there could also be safety risks. Like if a safety zone relies on an input to say the area is safe, if it is in a latching block, then its possible the area is not safe, but because its latched in, the PLC thinks it is.
Its hard to describe without an example, so sorry for the shit description. they're fine to use for small things, but if they can be avoided, they should be
>escape the hell of big city and move to more rural area

You sure it works like that? I've worked in the building automation industry for a decade. PLC programming is done in a big city office, then installers are flown out to install and troubleshoot things in rural areas. PLCs are extremely low-maintenance and not in every building like washing machine and PCs so that's what makes sense economically.
I bet you've never seen one work. That or you really like templates.

Obviously never worked in a rural area with competent workers or a company willing to accept liability.

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If I use this stuff on efflorence mortal and cracks in my basement wall am I getting scammed or will it work? I want to put walls up in the basement but i cant until the crumbling walls and leaks stop
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Also I pumped the water out of the side of the house and filled the ditch. Point being, not a solution for "permanent" problems
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well obviously not how it is now, id have it enlarged into a escape well. its doable.
The cracks will only propagate behind your seal until they find another weak spot. Best to redirect the water drainage if possible, or dig away at your wall and seal it from the outside.
fill with top soil and build a box planter with decent drainage for flowers/shrubbery.
This is a good idea thanks sorry just saw it now

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This is looking up into my wall through a hole in the plaster-board. What do you think this is? Rot? Termites (I can't find any)? Something else? The other timber seems to be fine.
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Sure looks like termites. Good thing you caught it early, likely case that there's a colony nearby that recently found your place. I'd say call an exterminator, damn things are impossible to get rid of once they're moved in and have had a few meals around the house.
Don't be a faggot like this though, just call the guy and say you want them taken care of. Don't be desperate, the guy's there working for you on a job that should be left to someone who's done it before
With termites, which this is 100% termite damage, killing the king and queen will not do crap to kill the colony because the colony will create another one. Termite kings and queens can live up to 30 years. Also, there are differences between dry wood and subterranean termites and how they function.
so you know nothing about termites.
but he's right.

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I picked up a Honda Foreman 450. It will idle for about 10-20 seconds then conk out. I checked the crankcase oil and gas literally shot out of it. Also, gas in the air box. What is causing this?
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This. Its either got a bad needle and seat or the float has a hole in it. When you rebuilt the carb did you check the float?
>Honda Foreman 450
stop dinkin around
Pull the float out and shake it. Does it have liquid inside?
Dunk it in a glass of hot water. Do bubbles come out?
No? Probably the needle valve and seat.
Carbs are cheap if you don't want to dick with it
Never go back to that mechanic. He's trying to scam you.
Iv heard later honda trx series carbs have non replaceable needle seats. The last two 350 ranchers that came through my shop got china ebay carbs and they worked great outta the box without any adjustment. SAVE THE BLACK SCREW IN ELECTRICAL GIZMO from your oem carb. Although the new one is the same, iv had problems with those and had to swap in the original. They are heaters to keep your throttlw cable from sticking in the winter.
The heater or the choke? I bought a cheap China one. It didn't work right and it wasn't an exact match. I had to return it and buy another. So while I waited for the replacement I clean the crap out of my original one.

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what is the point of linesman pliers?
>using the crimper tool.
They don't seem different from combination pliers only more bulky? If it does have fish tape puller then why bother?
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Lineman's pliers are my favorite kind of pliers.
They cut shit. Good for working with wire in general, easy to use with only one hand (no fussing with positions), they don't rattle and wobble, etc. I don't like using pliers, in general. Most seem designed to fukk up fasteners. Lineman's and needle nose, though, actually seem to be for things other than just replacing the lazy man's wrench drawer.
Not exactly.
>(B) Splices. Conductors shall be spliced or joined with splicing devices identified for the use or by brazing, welding, or soldering with a fusible metal or alloy. Soldered splices shall first be spliced or joined so as to be mechanically and electrically secure without solder and then be soldered. All splices and joints and the free ends of conductors shall be covered with an insulation equivalent to that of the conductors or with an identified insulating device. Wire connectors or splicing means installed on conductors for direct burial shall be listed for such use
>grounding and bonding
>(B) Methods Not Permitted. Connection devices or fittings that depend solely on solder shall not be used

So, I think soldering is allowed in NEC (as in my local code) as long as you don't do pic related. Just think about it, it is not really practical. I bet you'd need fire permits, getting molten solder on your head isn't that pleasant... Easier to use wirenuts (not really), wagos or fucking crimps.
This, any hvac tech not rocking a linesman is a fucking salesguy.
>need to bend some thick shit
>can be used to cut
>quick crimps
>can be used as a hammer for random bashing (but specifically knockouts)
General purpose tools really shine when you have to be the one to carry your tools onto the job site and need a whole lot of different shit.
Pretty much this too, I always strip with them unless it's low volt shit.
I've seen a soldered ground wire once and this is at the telco where all the old fags soldered all day everyday
I effotrlessly stab nice square holes through sheetrock for old work boxes , hammer staple straps, cut nails, crimp ground stuff, bash ood fixtures apart, fantasize about using the tool to beat a guy to death- but mostly I can achieve these really pretty tight twists in pigtails before I wire nut.

relying on beefy linesman makes your forearms and hands jacked, increasing overall dexterity.

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I'm kinda new to this and I'd like some advice on building a wire & wood fence.

It should be resistant so it can hold a medium dog from fleeing and I don't know where to start.
Drive to a fenced dirt road and see what makes it work.
Biggest thing is going to be making sure your posts are deep enough
Get cement on all sides of your posts. This is the primary thing people fuck up. Besides that, it's mostly just common sense.
Use 8' 4x4s. 2' in the ground, 6' in the air, with concrete at each one.

How hilly is the terrain? And does the dog like to dig?

If you just nail the wire mesh to the 4x4s you may be fine but you'll probably want a 2x4 going across near the bottom and near the top as well so you can nail it to that as well. And when I say nail I really mean staple or using galvanized horseshoe nails. Maybe 6' between posts.

If your dog likes to dig at the bottom and he's likely to escape you can always put a piece of rebar or just sticks hammered vertically into the ground where he's digging.

Most of it is easy, common sense. A gate is probably the hardest part if you aren't used to working with this stuff.
Pickets goddamn out of stock everywhere here wtf.

Can someone here give me resources for learning how to diy led strips for grow lights please? I want ones I can put under shelves for houseplants instead of buying something over priced for growing weed when I just want something for my houseplants that’s not ugly and is thin enough to fit under a shelf. Something like the image which is an hlg 40 which is discontinued.
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What’s it like to be so unhappy that you’re triggered by someone asking a diy question on a diy board?
No one's mentioning temp. Don't you want at least 5500k and ideally 6500k?
You want full spectrum , strips with diodes of 6500k, 2700, 3500k, 660nm + IR(Emerson Effect)
If you really want to be cheap take a led bulb and run them on a power strip, running into those lightbulb to electric socket converter. You can fit about 5 on a strip, they are 7w output so there is 35w for stuff you probably already have in your house and $3 worth of converters from a hardware store. Also, cut the plastic "bulb" off the lightbulb. It allows for much greater light penetration, they become immensely brighter too as a result.
Grow lights have specific wavelengths the plant needs, All the green and yellow light you send at a plant is pure waste! Blue and red only.

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thread on permanent backorder: >>>>>>1847774

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:
Don't ask, roll:
https://github.com/Rocheez/4chan-electronics-challenges/blob/master/list-of-challenges.png.png (embed) (embed) (embed) (embed)

>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics

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yah I hate that shit, I just do multiple orders.
fuck, I thought they automatically did combined shipping pricing
I've been overpaying out the ass
only some of the shops do, other shops only do it partially where they combine 5x 2$ shipping into say $4
What do you mean by accurately? Also why BLDC for robotics applications?

shouldn't be any issues
Devices should have internal charging circuitry and as long as voltage is within limits it will simply stop charging once fully charged
For MP3 player - some devices might only begin charging if only approved chargers or communications are established. Apple does this shit and it's easy to implement this with usb type-c

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