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Sup /diy/, I have a quick question for y'all. I just tried installing an air conditioner in the 3rd floor attic room in our house, but noticed shortly after that the extension cord leading to the AC was getting really hot. I tried replacing the extension cord with a surge protector for extra safety but then I saw a light on the surge protector indicating "Building Wiring Fault" so I just decided to stop with the project, unplug it from the outlet and move back downstairs.

Well in my second floor bedroom where I normally have lived, the AC is plugged into the outlet with an extension cord that is the exact same thickness as the one I plugged in the AC in the attic with. And yet, the cord up connected to the outlet in the attic got much hotter. What's going on here? Both AC's are about the same size and BTU rating, the extension cords are about the same thickness, so why would more current be travelling through the cord up in the attic? Is there another factor that could be causing the cord to heat up so much more in the attic?
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>exact same thickness
What about length? Also, what does the label say? Where is it plugged into, and why not run a dedicated circuit?
>What's going on here?
I don’t know. Maybe this?
>I saw a light on the surge protector indicating "Building Wiring Fault" so I just decided to stop with the project, unplug it from the outlet and move back downstairs.
Well, a simple tester can put you on the right path. However, as far as extension cords go..

Anything you'd plug you alarm clock or computer into are not meant for appliances.

Light duty is for 10amps or less
Medium is for 11-13
Heavy duty is for 14/15

Those might be slightly off, but I'd suggest going bigger always if you're on the edge. The same length cord can be $10/25/50 depending on what amps it's rated for.
Is it a grounded outlet? If not, just lop off the gfci plug and put a standard plug and it should work.
This. AC window units pull 10-13 amps iirc. You need a cord thicker, and if possible shorter, than the one you’re using now.

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My lawn tractor blew a head gasket about a month ago and I just replaced it. When it blew, some gas mixed in with the oil and the cylinder wall was scored badly. I figured I'd do the head gasket and run the thing until it died before maybe replacing the engine, or tractor entirely. The kit I ordered came with exhaust, intake, valve cover, and two seemingly identical head gaskets. I replaced everything, but only used 1 of the gaskets because I had never heard of an engine using two.

Well it started up and ran great for 5 minutes before blowing the head gasket again badly. It was shooting a thick cloud of blueish smoke from the exhaust, and gas got into the oil again. Honestly don't think I did anything wrong, so I'm wondering if this thing actually needed the two gaskets, or if I was right in only using one. Also wondering if maybe something is warped.

I have pretty good mechanical aptitude when working on cars and bikes, but I've never worked on a small engine like this. I watched a few videos on YouTube that all aligned with each other, so I followed them exactly. I'm hoping someone here will have some insight into something that I maybe did wrong so I can try doing the head gasket again.

If I were to replace the engine though, they're around $800. I can't find the exact engine that my tractor uses, but I can find newer variants of it with varying horsepower. How can I be absolutely positive that a new engine will use the same bolt pattern and will be compatible?
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Repeat head gasket failure would indicate either the head is warped or the block at the head mating surface is.

First try replacement of the head. If it blows again the block is warped. If you don't want to buy a new head you could try one of those thicker copper head gaskets. Or use a flat sheet of glass to flatten the head/block.
Rtv and gasket might work long enough to sell it too.
>Or use a flat sheet of glass to flatten the head/block.

wait what? how the fuck would glass flatten a metal block or head?
Engine is probably fucked. In my opinion the best bet is to get a predator vertical shaft engine from harbor freight and make it work. Bonus is you get a hp upgrade!
He's probably talking about using it as a surfacing or lapping plate, it's a cheap alternative to metal or stone plates that are made to close tolerances...but it still uses an abrasive sheet or powders to do the cutting and you need thick glass that won't bend. It's a shadetree level workaround but probably good enough for a small beater engine that's not built to high tolerances.

The idea is that the glass is flat and cheap, and you use it to sand the entire mating surface all at once.

The idea here is to fix the engine for less than the $800 you mentioned for a new one.

if you took the dollar store calculator and put in a chip that was as powerful as a com 64 and added a numpad and arrowkey keyboard like on a dumbphone, then it could be a fully reprogrammable computer for $1
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guys a commodore 64 cpu costs less than dollar on ali express and they are even cheaper in bulk
What can I do with it?
The calculator is already better than a c64, why would you even
The calculator chip is likely a fully programmable microcontroller as it is because economy of scale. You just need one that has a different ROM.
Cheat on school exams, obviously.

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What method do you guys use to make helmets? I saw a thread about armour making here about a week ago and now I'm interested in making a set of light armour for myself. I like the look of pic related (lobster tail pot helm from English civil war) although I'd probably ad crossbars to the top, a couple more bars in the front, and larger cheek pieces. Can I just hammer form like car parts and anneal it?
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Can I cold-work sheet metal into a helmet or do I need a forge?
depends on thickness and depth (and your resources.)

generally speaking anything thicker than about 1.5mm carbon, or 2mm mild, you're going to start wanting to be working hot. the correct process for deep forms like helmets (or couters, poleyns, etc) is to use raising, which requires heat, and then planishing to make it regular.
raising refined further....
and refined but not ground:

for this sort of stuff, I would recommend reading the Armour Archives forums, they're not as busy as they used to be, but still the best collection of information on the subject on the internet.
Thanks anon

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Previous thread:>>2351133

Here we discuss microcontrollers, SBCs and microcontroller accessories, such as Atmel AVR and attinys (Arduinos), ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP32, RPI, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor control, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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I know that feel. shit is hard and tedious. took me a day to figure out pwm with the timers
Make new thread pls
T. Phone posing scum
new thread
u using tinyusb? u need 2 be calling the tiny usb tasks reguarly in order to respond to USB packets from the host.
well done, u have now the right to call urself a professional embedded developer.
that means: immediately obtain a development environment with a GUI and never touch command line tools ever again xD

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Join the trades they said. Good money they said. Just kidding, this shit stew pays me 34 an hour with any overtime I want to eat. Thank you trades. Christ is King, were all going to make it.
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This is some rando fag and not >>2385366 (me) just to clarify; this is >>2385376
I took up a career in IT during my 20s. Now I'm 33 and regretting my choice.
I enjoy working with my hands and fixing my own issues at home. Is it too late to get into a trade and make good money?
I'm at 60k a year now but I'm willing to struggle for a bit if it's worth it.
lol no you retard. The reason you like working with your hands is because youre not on the clock. Enjoy it. Make easy money from computers and pour it into your real passion
I do interior painting for a brand name company and don't make shit

Why did I take the brand name pill

On top of that I work in the nigger district and do like 6 rooms a day with trim for project ghetto houses
Putting makeup on a pig and patching over bullet holes

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I'm looking for guidance on training a proper protection/attack dog. I would prefer a book suggestion but I've tried two books and they left out the more serious methods like harnessing dogs aggression for attack. I've trained two excellent guard dogs both in different languages to help me control them around the public but neither dog did I pursue aggressive or attack training as I couldn't realistically keep the dog away from people for 15yrs. Now I have 4 hectares and can train the dog I desire, just would like some hints or book suggestions.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.

You're not going to get a real answer, nor could you for years from this board. No one is willing to stick their neck out on 4chan for good reason.
Second having a scary-looking watch dog. I used to rescue "guard dogs" that people trained themselves. Usually the owners ended up afraid of them because their dogs attacked them or someone they cared about at some point. Most of them couldn't be rehabbed and eventually had to be euthanized because they were just too far gone. Beyond that, the kind of people who are going to risk fucking with you even though you have a big dog that barks at them are going to have a plan for disposing of said dog.
Feed it exclusively live rabbits while punching it in the throat and showing it pictures of niggers.
I bought one. Took about a month to acclimate to the family. He checks windows and doors all night and can open the doors to the children's rooms and the nursery. Was 14 Grand. Worth it. He came with a guide on keeping his training up and he gets stressed if you falter.
take the goosepill

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Hey /diy/, have any of you ever repaired a music box? I have one like pic related. All parts freely move but will not move when you wind the box. I've lubed everything and attempt to unwind the device manually.
Whatever you do don't unscrew the comb.

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I can just regular oil in these right? No need to buy the $20/quart kind right? Its just a ploy by the oil companies to charge 5X for less (skipping additives and detergents), right?
22 replies omitted. Click here to view.
post a pic or you're a lying faggot

this does not exist anywhere, it is not an oil type. OP is a tard
I'm an absolute poorfag and even I know that cheaping out on lube is penny wise pound foolish. As a "get 'er done" hack, you can use just about anything, but long term just buying the application specific oil is almost always worth it.
you still need a lubricant, like ptfe on your piston fags.
ptfe is not oil

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My great-grandpa was a professional mechanic and a machinist, served in both world wars as an intelligence officer, worked on model-t's and airplanes in 1927, just a super aggressive scotsman I will never live up to haha! My Dad got his tools when he died in the 70's, and we're just now examining them. I believe this is one of the first runs of snap-on tools, check out that art deco logo. Some of the sockets have manufacturer's dates, some have an asterick to indicate the date. Dad says says they stopped dating them when snap-on started their lifetime warranty program. So, what say you, diy? Any insights you might be able to give me?
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Think that's one of those military issue sets? I have parts a pieces of one not that old. Should be numbers on there you can look up. Uhm. Quick Google search can tell you. I do know since it's mil issues no warranty on them.
Cool stuff. These are the tools that built the world as we know it today. Treasure them, fren. They don't make 'em like they used to.
I would probably use them. They're awesome.
don't bother with the ratchets.
Why not?

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i replaced some halogen lamps on my bikes panel with leds and now it doesnt indicate the left turn signal. i assume its just due to the difference in electric specs? i tried inverting the polarity and that just caused it to not turn on at all. would a resistor make it work? if so what spec? the leds are 12v like the lamps
11 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
would a resistor work too
Technically yes.
Can I be bothered to figure that value out, no.
Bike electric systems are shit enough as it is. You’re making the bike more electricity efficient by using LED but then running heat generating resistance to pull amps.
what if i connect the left blinker's positive to the blinker led on the panel
also is it normal that the high beam led started blinking when the left turn is on, i isolated all wires so i dont think something is shorted. could the mere change for leds cause that?
nvm just saw a guy that actually did that. but with a diode to prevent it from turning into hazard lights

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Applied aniline wood dye for the first time, and getting "discoloration"/streaks at the ends of the board + looking for thoughts/feedback on my first "dye" job
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
I have a follow up question
When I apply the dye, does it matter if I apply it to the end grain first or to the face?
Not usually, but if you accidentally slop some dye on the face of really porous wood you'll need to immediately wet out the rest of it or risk having the splashed area show up in the final dye job. Dyes are great but they work super fast and don't leave much room for reversing screwups.
Stains are usually more forgiving in that respect and sometimes I'll do the ends of boards and other end grain (carefully) at first so they can be sucking up that stain, then I'll go back over them after the rest is done to account for them sucking the first pass in so deep the color lightens up.
you should sand the end grain to a higher grit.
Is it possible to sand the end grain to TOO high a grit before applying the dye? Because I did 600 grit but now I'm wondering if that was too high
yep it sure is possible. Fortunately you can hit t with some lower grit and uh unsand it? But 600 may be correct, who knows. Sounds like you need some experiments in your life.

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Do any of you dumpster dive? be it for cashing in on metals, reselling stuff, or keeping it for yourself? Got a favorite YouTube diver? share your experiences and/or favorite dumpster diving YouTuber!
297 replies and 62 images omitted. Click here to view.
Really fitting description.
Good find! Now you only need to dive for beers;)
I’m still on the lookout for a good old chest freezer.
Anon...Don't do it
i’ve gone deep into officeworks ewaste recycling and gotten some real scores. same with junk piles.
not exactly dumpster diving but i had some cousins in a "LOOP" program that gave grocery store expired stuff meant for livestock.

Got like 10 good apple pies and other foods.

They moved places so that was the end of free food.
Sucks with how ass food prices are now.

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Found a huge maglite a few years back and I knew as a brand they're quite popular and even collectable, but I just dumped it in a draw and left it. Now I'm quite into prepping considering the imminent economic collapse and global war and I want to get this thing fixed up.

Anybody into flashlights and maglites know anything about fixing these up or know anywhere I can find the info I need?
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>They're just trying to bluff their way into outlawing solvent traps.
Shut down auto parts plus the hardware store plumbing adapters.
This sort of, I very much dislike the twist on-off of Maglites. There are a million good lithium ones you can recharge for about the cost of a Maglite.

You can LED convert the Maglite, but still only one brightness setting and the alkaline cells will probably explode in storage.

Here’s my fun cheap ass approach: find these 2 for $15 Tac-Lights from Amazon or anywhere, they made about 10 billion of them. The Amazon ones come with a plastic tube to stick a single 18650 cell in if you want to take out the 3x AAAs. Otherwise go to Walmart and look for the $5 Onn power banks, or the $10 models if you want two cells, the 3350mAh lithium cells fit perfectly in the place of the original 3x AAA battery carrier.

Picrel shows the original 3x AAA carrier, then there were these plastic tubes to make the green 18650 fit snug, and the slightly latger power bank cells.
They were basically the only self defense tool we were legally allowed to carry when I used to repo cars
Got 4D cell at a garage sale and then swapped the lamp for a super bright LED. Amazing point source to wide flood capability.

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Are these worth anything?

Found them next to a dumpster so they probably don't work.
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I'm pretty sure those were only sold in Poland. Are you somewhere in eastern Europe or did one of those shitboxes manage to make their way out of the post-Soviet bloc?
Yeah I am in Poland.
Honestly surprised anyone would find this out.
To dekodery które albo za chwilę nie będą, albo już nie są kompatybilne z nowym standardem telewizji. Jako urządzenia nie są nic warte.
Cable modem? Some contain fairly expensive ADC chips that /ham/ people might want. One example is the Analog Devices AD9866 which is a 12-bit broadband modem mixed signal front end that can be repurposed as a direct down conversion (DDC) and direct up conversion (DUC) SDR transceiver covering 0-30 MHz.
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HAH! - the world needs more math jokes.
pic unrelated

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