[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]

Self-serve ads are available again! Check out our new advertising page here.

[Advertise on 4chan]

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: maxresdefault.jpg (113 KB, 1280x720)
113 KB
113 KB JPG
116 replies and 23 images omitted. Click here to view.
No. They won't. 4x4s hold up decks with dozens of people on them.
File: smiles.jpg (37 KB, 298x471)
37 KB
>>200lbs is basically nothing for a squat

Highschool kids are fitter than the average adult lmfao. How old are you, 20?
315lbs is basically nothing for a squat... Unless you are a 12 yr old girl. 500 is decent for a guy but hardly anything special, like literally what everyone can achieve with a year worth of training. 315lbs is what an average untrained male can do.

File: Window condensation.png (1.03 MB, 619x827)
1.03 MB
1.03 MB PNG
Condensation between windows turns to ice.
What is causing this? and how do I fix this?

This are apartment double windows, that can be opened by sliding them to the side.

I keep the apartment at temperature between 62F and 68F (17C to 20C)
6 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Yeah. There are bigger ones I bought that I use in the cabinet that attracts moisture
File: double-pane-windows.jpg (46 KB, 700x700)
46 KB
Anon was referring to these double pane insulated windows. They are laminated and sealed with a vacuum in-between acting as insulation. You seem to be describing two regular single pane windows side-by-side.

Further Dehumidification doesn't help much when the air is already as dry as anon describes. It will still happen as long as there is non-zero humidity and that's impractical to reach. The window surface is just too cold.
File: Dew Point Chart.png (253 KB, 373x473)
253 KB
253 KB PNG
These may still be double sided, but if the temperatures inside and outside the house are relatively the same, and as OP states, the controlled temperature inside the house is in the 60's Fahrenheit, then the condensation may be forming inside the house dew to the temperature and humidity in the house has gone below the dew point.
You know when you take a hot shower and condensations forms on the mirror? You need to get windows with a better R-value.
replace the windows either way.
if it's truly a double pane window, then the seal is fucked and it needs to be replaced. if you have old single pane windows, there's nothing you can do about condensation when it's fucking cold outside. replace with a double pane window instead.

File: Eames-Desk-multi-1.jpg (47 KB, 720x720)
47 KB
Does anybody know what these types of legs are called? I'm trying to build a copy.
File: DSC_8676_2048x2048.jpg (258 KB, 2048x2048)
258 KB
258 KB JPG
posting more examples, and if anyone has any ideas on how to copy this please feel free to post
another example

Why do companies ship their power cables like this and how do I get them to be manageable? I’ve tried the over-under thing with them but they just won’t twist into place when I go under.
7 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
dont forget a shot of black to reseal all the quantum connections you break
because the cords are packaged like that from the supplier. if a "brand" should wish different than standard then cost goes higher to brand to purchase.
Put tension on cord, apply heat gun
If they are less than a metre long I fold the cable in half half, then fold them again until they're a pocketable size. I then pinch it in the middle and tie it off with the twist tie thing they provide you when I buy it. Tidy box of cables forever.

Also, save your twist ties in a ziplock with your box of cables. Fuck paying for that shit.
File: tenor (5).gif (83 KB, 220x145)
83 KB
Currently on /diy/ there's a thread with a guy trying to build his own house, another guy who wants to remodel a live in van, a dude who is removing his own teeth, and then there is this faggot who needs help coiling up a power cable.
Like, how do you manage to feed and dress yourself, anon? Can you at least be embarrassed or ashamed or something?

File: 20210125_234859.jpg (104 KB, 1076x1512)
104 KB
104 KB JPG
Last week I've installed a simple smart thermostat found on Amazon for few bucks.
I cabled the junction box with line and neutral since it originally only had the 2 boiler cables and I installed the thermostat with my phone.
Everything went quite smoothly, I had to install this app called Tuya that I later on connected with my Google Home account.
I also created some routines and I was able to control the thermostat with my Google Home mini, everything has been working fine for 5 days or so.

Yesterday I was about to coming back home after the weekend and when I tried to enter Google Home app to raise the temperature in the house I found the situation in the image, so temperature set to 32 and being unable to control the actual thermostat, I mean I can change the value but for example a 30 degree set the thermostat to 3.0 Celsius.

I read online that this "32" is the default value of the temperature received by Google from the device shown up generally when it has some problems retrieving the correct data.

Any of you are facing the same issue atm, working with GH or Tuya?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Nigga just tweak the nob ahaha move the switch into position
I went with a honeywell, it had its own app and works nice with alexa
Dunno where you're getting a $10 thermostat from, but regardless all that communication happens over Tuya's and Google's servers and there's not much you can do besides resetting the thermostat and the app and seeing if that fixes it
the thing is that it worked properly also on google home since last week. I've been even able to control it with the voice
as you say, it's seems there are probably some API for some reason broken that blocks the communication between the two services.
I already tried to reset and restart everything but it didn't solve it
File: file.png (219 KB, 1450x741)
219 KB
219 KB PNG
You're outta luck then. This is why I recommend the Nest E, you can get the damn thing for free depending on the rebates in your area and it won't randomly stop working because some chinks forgot to pay Google

File: unnamed (1).jpg (69 KB, 512x340)
69 KB
Brick pill sage

>looks GREAT
>last hundreds of years
>AWESOME curb appeal
>simps think they are nicer than they actually are
>wind, fire, and pest proof
>greeeeeeat insulator
>can stop gunfire

Why haven't you taken the brick pill?

Pic related is a CIVIL WAR era building. Look how timeless it is, and witness how nice it looks. YOU WILL TAKE THE BRICK PILL.
159 replies and 29 images omitted. Click here to view.
They're federation era houses. Pretty sure they didn't have OSB and foam back then.
I want to build an olde timey workshop out of brick. But I'm no brickie. Makes me sad.
>Why would I pay you to lay mud blocks when I can just lay lightweight insulated ICF block, fill with six inches to a foot of concrete, stucco finish the outside or hell even lay a brick facade and come out cheaper with a far better end result?
I dunno, maybe because you're trying to avoid 3rd world construction?
used to live up there. bunch of faggots. houses were nice tho
Where would you rather live? You're not thinking of the northern beaches are you? Northern beaches are cunts. Eastern suburbs are cunts. North west and western suburbs are alright but I wouldn't want to live there. Inner west and city are wankers.

File: lock picks.jpg (70 KB, 1024x384)
70 KB
do any of you guys know anything about lock-picking/smithing. I'm new to it having just bought a set of picks. I can open some simple padlocks but i can't get most padlocks and have tried the lock on my door as well as a door knob i removed from an old door that i can't get open. do any of you have any information or advice about this kind of thing.
18 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>hobbies are bad
kill yourself you brainlet cunt
this, bosnian bill is just so much better of a presenter, he actually sounds human. When I hear LPLs voice I just picture someone that looks as fake as mark zuckerberg
>black people
>learning something
pick one.
he's a lawyer so
His soullessness makes his deadpan April Fool's videos quite funny though

File: CAM02200 (1).jpg (422 KB, 2048x1536)
422 KB
422 KB JPG
I'm pretty happy with Drill Hog, but I want the best money can buy. What should I look for?
No chinkshit.
29 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
Recently bought these cobalt HSS bits, maker is IAT from Bosnia and they are top tier. 60 euro for 6 sizes
I don't know if they are available in the USA but if they are they're worth looking into. They make all kinds of machining tools and there are a couple more factories that survived the fall of the communist regimes in the Balkans that still make top notch tools and are not expensive
Just sharpen them you knob
Chicago-Latrobe 100%
File: hog flat.jpg (72 KB, 1000x708)
72 KB
Im going down the rabbit hole, watching youtube videos and reading reviews.
People exclaim that Norseman makes their M7 bits, because they have a thin web and are black and gold therefore they must be!
Whats ironic is that on their ebay listings, none of their M7 drill bit sets actually say made in the USA.
Only their Niobium and the M60 Pig Steel ones do which dont look anything like Norsemans. But go on ebay and search for cheap "black and gold" drill bit sets and china has TONS of chinkshit that look identical to them, because its not hard to finish your bits in black and gold.

I mean look at the Tap and Die sets complete with the pot metal Harbor Freight die stock and tap wrench included.

I have Norseman Magnums that I could compare to the Drill Hogs, but I dont think I have it in me to give my hard earned 20$ to these faggots for their cheapest 13p set, when I could buy real Norseman Magnums in the badass black and gold index for the same exact price. Not only that, all their bits have the 3 flats (which fucking suck) and the flats are super short (which is extremely odd and stupid)

The only reason I even remembered this thread was because I was looking at Japanese made pliers and screwdrivers on Amazon and this came up.

They are laser etched "forged in japan" but I knew right away that Capri is just a private label that had always relabeled Taiwanese tools in the past.
Of course in the reviews, the actual packaging says Made In Taiwan. So I guess "forged" is legally probably a throwaway word that means nothing in the eyes of the law.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Also Drill America does this same horse shit about being deceptive with their COO
I would not be surprised at all if Drill America and Drill Hog are using the same chink OEM for their black and gold bits.

Can only find videos and advice on how to cover a table top with fabric not replace it with something else. Is it possible?
The tops were generally made of melamine. If you can get it flat again you can just put another veneer over the top.
Thanks, but I'm talking about taking out the melamine to keep the base and chrome frame and putting something else inside the frame. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
Find the seam on the border and try removing it. It may be a T shaped strip that is just forced into a groove and pulled around the table top. Remove it, make your new top, put a groove around the edge and push the trim back in.

File: IMG_20210122_210330.jpg (867 KB, 3944x2958)
867 KB
867 KB JPG
Help /diy/ I'm installing led strips and I don't know if the ceiling or walls look better to mount them (check second post for wall)
11 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
OP best option is to install tik tok, realize that every faggot zoomer has this in their room, then uninstall tiktok + remove led
Fuck that place, what else would I do? Its in my basement. I had christmas lights before, leds will look nicer and they're sk6812s so controllable.

The walls of my low rise condo (apartment) all have whatever the fuck this stain is. There’s also cracks all over the walls in various places.

Should I be concerned?
24 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
Hahhahaha... Yeah. Go for it. Just move out before next fall when the mold fruits.
Either your roof is leaking or the people in the apartment above you have a walk-in aquarium.

You see the black stuff near the window? That’s mold, it’s also where the water came from. Judging by the putty someone already tried to seal a leaky windowsill with wood filler or whatever. It’s still letting moisture through.

The straight vertical line here is the edge between two pieces of drywall. One has come loose or disintegrated (from the moisture) and he moved, causing the plaster to crack. Same here >>2010638 .

Sorry OP, this will get progressively worse. As many have said, you’ll get mold in spring. Even you repaint all of it, that paint will come off in a few months. Your drywall is getting worse and worse, at some point the boards will become like sand and eventually fall out.

Get out all the drywall
Check where the ceiling moisture comes from
Fix that

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
I just wanted to thank this board, you guys are legitimately the most useful page on the internet. I posted a few months ago here about an issue I had with my internet and a guy told me how I could take advantage of my cabling to get free internet from my neighbours.

I can’t do anything too big like cut into the walls, it’s a rental and I really want to stay because everything is close by so I was hoping I could just paint over it but I appreciate all the knowledge I’m getting from everyone here.

I’m guessing it’s not even worth it to paint with mold killing primer and paint over it? No cheap or easy way to get rid of this?

When you guys say that I’ll get mold in spring, do you mean that I’ll start to see black spores everywhere?
The putty was caulking the condo replaced the entire windows a few years ago

The drywall comment makes sense. If the leaking stops would mold killing primer stop?
Just move out at lease end bro.

File: laser.jpg (27 KB, 600x400)
27 KB
I was thinking about starting a small business. I am currently just thinking about what I would like doing and laser engraving for firearms sounded like fun.
Do any of you have any experience with these? Any ideas of what brands of laser I should look at?
I understand they are expensive and I imagine I wouldn't need the largest of machines since firearms are relatively cheap.
Thank you in advance.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Its ok anon, you are the first person to ask this on this board. You are definitely the first person to think about this.
You are especially the first person to think about this, during Covid when everyone is sitting at home trying to make a buck.

Whats your next grand idea?
Gonna screenprint shirts too?
Gonna make soap?

You dont have to listen to me, youll find out in due time.
Engraving gun blued steel looks like shit and then it rusts..
Engraving hardcoat anodizing aluminum like on a gun looks very weak and scrapes off with CO2 lasers and it bubbles and burns with Fiber lasers
>t someone who ran both fiber and CO2 laser engravers in a job shop
The lasers are cheap and they are everywhere, people stick to wood and acrylic, or thin cheap anodizing on cups for a reason.
Just go to your next craft fair and look around, youll be real surprised.
>Engraving gun blued steel looks like shit and then it rusts..
wow, that issue totally can't be solved by any single product on this earth, and certainly couldn't be solved by a product I could offer them. gee how will I ever overcome that?
>Engraving hardcoat anodizing aluminum like on a gun looks very weak and scrapes off with CO2 lasers and it bubbles and burns with Fiber lasers
gee, that couldn't possibly be solved by anything, I guess the guys that do this already must have sold their soul to satan for their wizard powers
>The lasers are cheap and they are everywhere, people stick to wood and acrylic, or thin cheap anodizing on cups for a reason.
ok so you're talking about hobby lasers, inderdasting

I guess if every person listened to you they'd probably be just as miserable as you are.
>laser engraving
So passe desu

Get yourself a SLM machine and start re-designing rocket engines or whatever with principles of additive manufacturing.

Make big boy bucks while selling g-data, or just laser engrave toys or whatever. SLM will set you back quarter of a mill unless you build it /diy/.

This can make you money, a laser engraver can if you rebuild into an slm machine.
>wow, that issue totally can't be solved by any single product on this earth, and certainly couldn't be solved by a product I could offer them. gee how will I ever overcome that?
good luck trying to convince people to ruin the finish on their gun so that they can engrave things on it.
>I guess if every person listened to you they'd probably be just as miserable as you are.
idk anon is there anything more miserable than posting dumb ideas on a /diy/ forum trying to get us to do all of the hard work for you?

Heres how it works faggot, if you want to make shit, don't let anything stop you. But trying to conceptualize a product before youve made anything at all with a process you have zero experience with is just brain dead retarded.

Also specialization to that degree almost never sells/makes money. You're going to have to do things that nobody has ever done before, and lol I seriously doubt you have enough brains to actually set up and use a laser engrave let alone do anything meaningful with it. prove me wrong faggot, no balls
File: 1608621886112.jpg (28 KB, 495x362)
28 KB
>t. pic related
whole lot of projection, friendo

File: Oil_Heater_5293.jpg (169 KB, 1200x1799)
169 KB
169 KB JPG
I got an old oil heater for free off the side of the road. The sign on it says "working condition". How do I test it to make sure it's safe? Do I need to borrow a multimeter?
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
There is literally nothing to break in those, it's basically an electric kettle on steroids and filled with oil. If it has continuity between the plug prongs (when cold) it should work, if not at least you didn't pay for it.
Seriously dude, just grow a pair. Being afraid of anything that isn't new and "professionally tested" is no way to live. You're probably under 25 and have grown up in the insane nanny state world of "everything that isn't 100% safe enough for a 3 year old to play with unsupervised must be banned". Just plug it in. If smoke doesn't roll out and it heats up it's fine.
>how do you keep a place warm if you're renting
Warm clothing
>less power
how so?

the oil heater would radiate heat for quite some while after warming up, and doesn't need to be always on - the heating element anyway. radiant heat is on/warm or off/nothing.
usually heaters with LO MED HI settings are 500/1000/1500W

File: yea.jpg (78 KB, 550x665)
78 KB
What should I know before I start a electrical apprenticeship doing commercial work?
65 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.

So...we're talking like a two...or two and a half IQ point difference?
Never trust anyone else's word that the line isn't hot. Always test for yourself.

Also, the entire UK thinks you're an idiot.

/am electrician
/would never move to the UK
Yeah, but which way?
because humans are very imperfect and have brain farts and make mistakes all the time. And its also possible for one person to turn off a circuit, tell you its off, and all the while a third person manages to turn the circuit back on.

Its like treating a gun as if its always loaded, you want to treat circuits like they're always hot unless you're testing them right there. And even then its good habit to not touch bare 'hot' wiring/terminals for any longer than you need to on a circuit thats wired back into the box.

Hey, so I'm working on a project using an arduino to control am LED strip. Can I just solder my rgb points straight on the strip to use the adapter that came with the strip. I'm retarded and don't wanna fry my 'duino
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
yeah you can solder to them no problem
You are going to need to give us more info to get a good answer. What exact type of LEDs are you using? You can probably just solder the LED data and GND pins to the arduino, but I would use a separate power supply pin. It'd be okay for a short run, but an arduino can't provide enough current to power more than a few feet of LEDs, you'll just get weird glitchy behavior
Are you guys retarded or are you just trying to kill his Arduino?
It says 24V right there on the picture, your arduino operates at 5V or 3.3V, what do you think that means
It won't kill his Arduino, but it sure as fuck isn't going to work either.

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.