[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/diy/ - Do It Yourself

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]

Happy 18th Birthday, 4chan!

Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!

[Advertise on 4chan]

[Catalog] [Archive]

File: 12.jpg (38 KB, 696x696)
38 KB
I got to get rid of some old flooring in a complete ~ 90m2 flat.

threre's hard wood flooring underneath that I want to get visible but there about 4 - 5 layers of vinily and rug stacked on top...

I could rent one of those badbois pictured above.
anybody any experience with those ?
will this make short work of the floor ?

any other tips for dealing with this ?
8 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
File: cushion.jpg (30 KB, 500x375)
30 KB
>.quite possible
also there are two kinds of asbestos flooring

one where the asbestos is used as reinforcement inside the vinyl. not that bad

and cushion vinyl with loose woven asbestos cloth on the underside. really really nasty.
asbestos is no fun.

if you want to do it yourself translate The German OSHA has a few approved methods for asbestos removal.
the link does not lead to a official "Osha" page its some HAM guy df4zs kek but it was the only link where all methods were in one PDF combined. instead of looking up 10 cross references.


Page 60 for asbestos reinforced vinyl
Basically keep it moist lift one tile with spatula spray soapy water under the tile, then remove it completely and put it in a bag.

Page 72 for the Cushion Vinyl. A little bit more complicated, you need to cut it in strips with a carpet knife, use a spiked roller to perforate the floor, then soak it for 3 days with a water soap boric mixture, then remove the strips with a scraper while spraying water on it.
Most asbestos isn't that bad, white I believe was used most commonly and it's not nearly as bad for you as other asbestos.

Just use a hammer and chisel you woman

big thanks !
can't get any more helpful than that
those methods were actually tested by the BG they set up air measuring units and let company's removed asbestos in that way.
if the method released less than Xsomething asbestos fibers per m3 of air the method was approved

File: rubber-worms.jpg (162 KB, 800x300)
162 KB
162 KB JPG
Any way I can recreate these kind of baits with a mold of some sort? Want to try my own colors.
Don't want to get official bait molds as I would need several for the many types I want to copy.
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
make a two piece mold, it'd be really easy to have two halves of a mold with a bunch of different worms all lined up and ready to be made with a single pour
Just pour silicon inside your dick or ass and let it cure. Once you pull it out it will look pretty much like your pic. Just be careful not to fart, poop or peep while it cures
File: excellent bait.png (86 KB, 500x501)
86 KB
This thread.
This is bait
You make a mold out of a bait you already have and then pour molten plastisol or down the mold. You can alson just save and melt old lures. You can also hack together your own baits and then make a mold out of that.

File: Biodiesel.jpg (29 KB, 460x250)
29 KB
I want to start making my own diesel. Is there an easy way to get started?
I know I need an older car.
I've been reading forums and FB groups where people are just filtering old fryer oil through bed-sheets and pumping it straight into their tank. What do you guys think?
15 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
what about distiling diesel from plastic bags
and yes you can do it and plastic bags should be plenty cheap
>Methanol in large quantities is difficult
Did you mean ethanol? Because you can just buy methanol by the gallon at a hardware store in most places.
Aleppo bros did it under Syrian bombardment. Follow your dreams!
I'd rather pay $6/gal for stuff that's been made properly than do it myself and fuck over my engine with homemade diesel. Not everything should be a /diy/ project and as others have said, the best use for homemade biodiesel is heating because there's fewer moving parts for your crappy fuel to break. It's not worth trashing a good engine so that you can maybe save a few dollars on a gallon of fuel. New highway diesel engines are a lot more picky than old ones that will burn just about any combustible fluid you put in them. That's not necessarily a bad thing either. They're picky because they're so much more fuel efficient.
Extremely dangerous, and requires a lot of power to heat the combustion chamber. But it works. Better than dumb shit like wood gas.

File: 1634744145422.jpg (64 KB, 902x812)
64 KB
>soak your brick in sea water for 24 hours
>Over the next 40 years,
the calcium in the sea water will plug any holes in the concrete or brick, giving it strength and longevity

Big Concrete has been gangstalking me for talking about this, but did you know that Roman concrete and Brock structured have been found 2000 years later with ZERO structural problems. Essentially, the concrete or brick is the same as it's been. Incredible. But that's not all, some of these structures have been found near the coast, and these have also been found in perfect condition. Modern concrete will crumble from sea water. How did the Romans develop a concrete that is better than anything we have today? Scientists are still trying to develop ANYTHING that can come close to what they made.

What happened? Well, the fall of the Roman Empire happened, and with it...standards. Pretty soon, people were shoving sand and limestone mixed with hay or whatever the fuck they could find. Understandably, those medieval castles have degraded much more than say the colosseum in Rome. Roman bricks and stone will not crumble, no matter how many hundreds of years of rain, salt water or freezing weather comes at it, but check out your local concrete buildings and tell me they'll still look the same in 100 years.

We must learn from them. This is a Roman concrete thread. Please post Roman concrete red pills.
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>Granite is common all over the world
IIRC the secret ingredient was blood. This was tested with pig's blood and the cement cured under seawater with decent strength. Not sure that test met with Roman awesomeness, but it did seem to verify it was part of the puzzle.
They used volcanic ash
>Roman concrete and Brock structured
someone has Crown Jewel on their mind
I thought the Coliseum was travertine.

File: 40-year-old-virgin.jpg (48 KB, 500x300)
48 KB
I've picked up some really nice antiques lately and a lot of them are brass. The guy at my local hardware store recommended this stuff called nevr-dull but it doesn't clean it very well and when it dries it leaves behind this horrible chalky look. It works on silverplate very well but still leaves behind the chalkyness. What's the best way to clean antique brass? I have candlesticks, book stands, large heavy lamps, and other assorted things.

Talk about other antiquey things too.
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.

In your butt-ho?
File: 147891.jpg (78 KB, 1500x620)
78 KB
You're welcome
Thanks for the tips! I have some that's lacquered and some that's bare.

At first I read
>t. an amateur destroyer of vintage instruments
This is the best. I’m an antique dealer no joke and this is what my family have always used in our shops.
Never heard of it. Neither my local hardware store or the local Home Depot seems to carry that, so I'll have to order some online. Thank you for the tip!

File: 01beetleinline-jumbo.jpg (323 KB, 1024x687)
323 KB
323 KB JPG
Emerald Ash Borer, Destroyer of Worlds edition

Welcome to /wwg/! Here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques used to do so. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction might get a better response in /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways, from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws, and their use
Handplane Essentials
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
321 replies and 108 images omitted. Click here to view.
forgot pic related
Chisels perhaps? Be very careful.
Why not just make a box instead of digging out the core?
Make it out of stacked layers of some material, then cover the outside with veneer or something.
Or you know, drill the radius in the corners, jigsaw the sides, and chisel out
How small is too small for a table saw bed? I have a poor quality 600W motor for 200mm blade. Rebuilt the frame but now I need to build a table top for it. Was thinking 35x50cm (16”x20”) since I hardly ever cut any sheets bigger than 1200x600 (3’x2’) and it won’t take up so much space that way.

Pic related is a test fit for the hole positions but as you can see it’s way too small

File: IMG_20210905_184746.jpg (2.46 MB, 4160x2000)
2.46 MB
2.46 MB JPG
We have this big old kubota diesel generator. 3 phase i think. It runs when the battery gets low. It charges the battery and the solar inverter automatically shunts gen power directly to the house. However, unfortunately when we run on the generator, the power seems janky. The lights (led) flicker constantly and electronics have been damaged or destroyed. I have had to replace cell phones and PSUs before i figured out what was going on. And still have to frequently replace lights, but the Phillips ones seem to last better than the off brand shit.

Anyway. I can't find any technical help for this fucker. The mechanics don't do electrical, and the electricians don't do mechanical. So they all just shrug and say "donno". We've had voltage production measured and seems normal. We've had freq measured and seems normal too. No hunting.

Any suggestions please. Have not tried oscilloscope, im not electrical specialty doubt it would help anyway. Any filters or some shit i can use at the output?
27 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Gen nameplate pic related.

Battery bank is 35 kwh of simpliphi lithium ion units

Inverter is an outback power Radian series GSLC model.
File: IMG_20211018_142221.jpg (2.23 MB, 4160x2000)
2.23 MB
2.23 MB JPG
Forgot pic.
File: IMG_20211018_142733.jpg (1.84 MB, 4160x2000)
1.84 MB
1.84 MB JPG
Solar power system back end.
You are venting those batteries outside?
Lithium ion sir. There is no need for venting.

File: 1634665114767.jpg (1.58 MB, 3013x3326)
1.58 MB
1.58 MB JPG
I'm trying to repair this plastic piece, it's worn down, it's supposed to look like the piece opposite of it, at 90 degrees instead of sloped because of wear. I was thinking of using some JB weld and then a Dremel to even it out. Is this the best approach?
14 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
I had a volvo one that's almost identical and it wasnt that bad to pick out the chip.

Yeah the aftermarket ones dont feel right, its true.

I'd say go ahead and try jbweld and carve it to shape and convert to your aftermarket one if its fucked
It's good stuff, for most plastics, that's why I recommended it.
>you could heat it up with a soldering iron and stick a couple of really hot metal pins in there
I'll second the pin idea. I've done something like this before, using the soldering iron had mixed results but drilling a hole and then pressing and supergluing the pin in place worked a treat.
You could use the pin for structure and then put JB weld around it, if it ever breaks again and you need to redo it.
dog speed anon doing the good work your contribution is appreciated
>dog speed anon

What are some good uses for handheld steam cleaners, other than cleaning bathroom grout?
12 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Put some fog juice in it and go fog up your basement, neckbeard!
My basementdungeon is already misty from the constant musk radiating from my body.
wait.... those work on bathroom grout?
It works somewhat with the brush attachment.
you can use it for sanitizing fabric inners for garments you can't just wash like leather coats or use it for stretching time between dry cleanings on delicate materials. they're also good for pillows/upholstery/drapes. i've heard they can be used for getting hard water stains off of things like metal faucets as well.

File: shithead.jpg (212 KB, 2479x1309)
212 KB
212 KB JPG
How can I nuke every fucking mouse from my house? These little shits keep running inside my walls at night. I fucking hate these cunts. Fuck every one of these.
167 replies and 21 images omitted. Click here to view.
Rodent proof is more impossible than air tight as rodents have teeth. Air does not. Confirmed retard.
Yeah you are definitely a confirmed retard. Rodents have a hard time chewing through concrete, steel, and aluminum. If you don't know how to use these materials to make your residence rodent proof then it is ok to admit that you are a smooth-brained run dum.
And yet your house is the one with the rodent problem, not mine. Hmmmm
Oh I misunderstood your post. I think we're both retards. I wasn't thinking about making it actually air tigh which is pretty much exactly what makes it hard. You have to be very tactical about what materials you use and how you use them. I'm sure that a simple piece of L shaped sheet metal placed at an appropriate height on your wall would be enough to keep mouse-kun away but that would quite frankly just look kinda stupid. My foundation also has these grooves in it which would mean that I would still have to plug those up if I placed the sheet on that.
It's ok satan I was the retard with the rodent issues not that other retard.
No my house absolutely doesn't have a rodent problem. I had one mouse get in the wall and die over 10 years ago. Found the point of entry and sealed it up. Never have had a single mouse since.

I do have a shop on my property with mice getting in, but the points of entry are obvious and I am planning on taking care of that for good this weekend by pouring some concrete around the building and getting it sealed up well.

File: esp32-cam.jpg (573 KB, 1000x1024)
573 KB
573 KB JPG
My esp32-cam module has 3 GND pins as in the picture. Only 1 and 2 have continuity between them, 3 doesn't seem to be connected to the common ground. What is this GND 3 used for?

I'm having problems flashing the module while using an external power supply. May be I'm messing up connecting all the grounds between power supply, esp32 and the FTDI programmer.

How should I set it up?
13 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
So your OP pic was a red herring the whole time. At least I learned something.
>I just don't get why someone would go "lol u stupid" and refuse to prove why I'm stupid.
because if you're too retarded to put a little effort in to understand a subject by googling it for an hour or two, then why the fuck should we hold your hand like the retard you are and be bothered to write out a wall of text explaining what is said elsewhere on the internet
You weren't even that helpful. If someone asks something and your reply is "u retarded", that doesn't help me know what I don't know. You say something like "u retard, google 'common grounds'", and then I know what to read about.

I'll bet you're a horrible parent. "Daddy, why is the sky blue?" "Fuck off cuck, go shit your pants". I mean, if you could ever have sex to have a kid.
File: IMG_20211020_2203044.jpg (2.42 MB, 3996x2664)
2.42 MB
2.42 MB JPG
i'm not the anon who call you retarded, i'm the anon who told you why you were called retarded. anyways stay mad that i know what a ground is and i have a wife.
This is why I go to redit when I want a civilized discussion.

File: dialectric.jpg (25 KB, 474x474)
25 KB
Am looking to replace my galvanized with copper on a >60yo house. The mains valve has a 90-joint maybe a three feet up veristically and that continues horizontally across the house.
Where should I put my dialectric? After the 90? On the vertical section and install a new 90? Or is this a decision to make on inspection when I cut that horizontal main pipe and look at the 90 and say "holy shit that's a lot of calcification!"
also, fuck are these little things expensive
is there a diy way of accomplishing the same corrosion avoidance between the metals?
I'm not saying it's not an issue, but my galvanized supply has about 4 branches and each one goes to brass or copper without anything more than teflon tape which does not form a total barrier, and it's going on 50 years without leaks.

File: 20211020_233516.jpg (1.54 MB, 4032x1816)
1.54 MB
1.54 MB JPG
How would you fix this /diy/?

This is from a added on bedroom
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
What's the problem?
Pull carpet. Take another photo.
ask if you want a more substantial landing, maybe the first step gets enlarged

Any of you mongs running any solar?
I've got twelve old-ish 180Wp panels for free and I want to do a simple setup.
Since I'm already running home assistant I want to integrate this so I've chose the EPEver Tracer4210AN. But that has a max of 1040W at 24V. Even if these panels were to run at half of their rated power they would churn out 1080W.
Could I just put them all up, connect them together and let them run (sure I would be loosing some electricity at top power) and maybe some time later I could buy a second 4210AN and run the two of them in serial?
I don't know what serial means but I would suggest you looking up series and parallel and the exact VOC of your panels and the max VOC input of your charge controller to determine the best way to hook them all up without burning out your charge controller.

VOC is ok. With 4s3p setup the panels will give max of 92V which is exactly the max the charger can accept at 25°C. But they will give (theoretically) 2160W max. Even at half power they would produce more than the max is.

File: cmskaoqowoq.jpg (49 KB, 678x452)
49 KB
I've got a level patch of concrete in my yard, and a bunch of good pallets. I'd like to build a deck. Anyone done it before/any tips?
24 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
You said it yourself, pallets are quick, dirty and cheap. Odd enough you didn't say they were easy materials since they are a bitch to deal with and aren't worth the time you invest in salvaging them for spare parts
I saw some stair treads that looked pretty good. It was a shit-ton of unnecessary work but it was unique.
File: disgust.jpg (150 KB, 600x432)
150 KB
150 KB JPG
>in front of the house
Pallet deck? Do you want your house to look like it came from Fallout 4? Save yourself the effort and just hammer toothpicks into your feet.
tip 1: sell pallets to retards on etsy or whatever
tip 2: acquire proper lumber

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10]
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.