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I saw this thing in which a guy sits legs spread, and this rotating sheet of leather will keep hitting him on the balls.
how could i make something like this?i only have a drill, a hammer. and some bits.
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You can also just inject saline right into your sack. Inflating the testicles themselves would almost certainly permanently damage them.
Try torsioning your testes. They swell nicely and if they don't necrotize you can savor the pain. If they do, band them and they'll drop off. Then you can pursue nullification.
>rėddìt cope solution mixed with fear
reminds me of the femoid we helped make a dildo vibrator chair for and she acc posted booba
hm. good idea. it's more fun if you have someone do it to you tho, but ofc i know nothing of the matter cause i'm still virgin at 30. hence why this thread exists in the first place. thanks for the bump!

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What's more complicated, masonry or carpentry?
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Trade work is gay. Imagine going out to someone's house and being their little Bob-The-Builder bitch for the whole day if not longer. Back-breaking work, enslaving yourself and being at the mercy of another man or some old woman. And at the end of it they can just tell you to get fucked and not pay you, even if you do get paid it's so bittersweet when you see that FIT rape you of your money.

Unless you're learning a trade (lmao) to do your own projects for your home, you're fucking yourself up BIG TIME. Pretty much goes for any service work. It's all subjective on what the person wants you to do, unlike bartering goods where you have an actual thing and are giving it for another actual thing.

Fuck tradefags, buy-sell-tradechads rise the fuck up.
Masonry seems to be more physically demanding. Other than that, they seem to be about the same level of complexity from what I can seem, maybe carpentry a bit more if you include joinery within that category.

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ITT we post tools you were surprised you end up using much more than you ever thought you would.

I bought these "self adjusting" wire strippers on sale, on a whim, thinking they would mostly be a gimmicky luxury, but I find myself using them all the time. I'm absolutely shocked how useful they ended up being. If they broke for some reason, I would replace them same day without hesitation.

I'm interested in hearing more candidates for tools that ended up being used unexpectedly often.
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you are so fucking retarded its borderline not entertaining
16oz. ? Might as well just hit things with your purse
How's the crimpers on these?
I’ll take it

Had to replace a few hinges on the garage door… SAE all the way
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reverse squeeze staple gun easier to fight the kick back when my weight is over it, less kick deeper staple.

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I live in a pretty old dorm style building, so I have roommates and I'm more or less nocturnal along with one other person and the other 2 are day people, the door is old and painted and seems to 'stick' when opening and so even if you try to open it slowly it has to be pushed open and there's a loud noise caused by the friction.
I feel like I can lubricate it with something, I've got some coconut oil that I don't use for anything, but I'm worried about the oil going rancid and smelling awful. The dorm supplies probably has some WD-40 that I could use, I know it's for locks and hinges and shit, but I wonder if I could just spray it on the frame and it would just slide. Or maybe I could get some sand paper and just sand down the door edge, I don't care how it looks (honestly the building is over a century old and they don't keep it up lol) so function over form is all I care about.

Any help would be much appreciated.
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hahaha osha is really more of a mental state than it is a physcial tangible assembly of people and rules..
Yea but it's just grit no? So a stone should be able to sand and I don't have to go to the store to get one cause I already have one lol.
I doubt it will work. Better off getting sandpaper. When sanding paint it gets very gummy and will clog up your stone fast making it essentially useless.
alrighty, thanks, I bet there's sand paper in the dorm supplies somewhere, or it's probably not that expensive.
Thanks for the replies and info all.
Do you have a picture of the door? what are the gaps are the top and bottom like?

I assume it is just saggy. Fix it by shimming thebottom hinge and tightening thetop one. It will save you a good hour messing around with sandaper and paint since you just need to undo and redo a couple screws.

If the screw holes at the top are loose jam a few cut down tooth picks or match sticks in there to give extra grip.

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How realistic is it to freelance as a mechanical engineer doing CAD models and drawings or doing structural analyses for people? Do people actually need/buy that from random websites like Upwork? I want make some extra buck.

Also, general freelancing thread if you want to discuss relevant topics.
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If you're a broke mech eng commit crime. It's always those that are capable of profitable crime that don't commit it.
PEngs work like laywers.
They farm out all their shit to interns and underlings. A friend of mine is a PEng, and he sends all his stuff to his old buddies back in india.
All he gotta do is put his john henry on the completed work and carry the insurance policies.
So yeah, needing to be a PE is bullshit in the real world. You’re always meeting with the white face-man/ringer but the work is offshored for $5/hour.
Back in uni when I had a CSWP and only a BSc in mech Eng I tried something like this. Money can be made, but it turned to be much easier making models for 3D printing, renders for their slide shows or consumer products (so convert badly made prototypes to 3D model to have it produced by other machinists). It’s a lot easier to find gigs that it doesn’t involve actual engineering like structural.

But you must be willing to draw stuff like warhammer figurines, landmarks, candle holders, air conditioner covers, these things woman use to pee standing up, etc
That'd be better for someone with art training than engineering. The difference between regular 3d models and 3d printer 3d models is not that big.
Cool, thanks for the input. Any ideas where to find work/commission for these kinds of models?

I agree that perhaps CAD modelling/analysis for engineering parts might not really be worth it if you are not going full time, it seems you have to dedicate yourself fully to that wrt to certs, contracts and website etc. I was thinking motorcycle enthusiasts or hobby builders might be a good clientele but perhaps the demand is not that great for FEA work in that category.

I am doing a living room remodel, I stripped everything down to the studs, did plumbing and electrical and now it's time for insulation.

I have a guy that will spray foam all the studs for a good price.
Can you even use spray foam around the wires or will they get too hot and cause a fire?
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>I'll often leave wires loose in the wall so that I can come back during finish and cut in lights/receps so they're perfectly centered on cabinets, sinks, etc
I'm putting in like 40 potlights, I'm going to have the wire dangling in the areas where the potlights will be
How do I create a void or something before the spray foam guy comes so I have enough room to install the potlight after the foam is installed?

>It's liquidy and expands to fill empty space.
Then why do people use low/no expansion foam around windows so they won't bow the window frame?

Also another question, sometimes I see spray foam installed only partially in the stud cavity and other times it fills the whole cavity?
Why is either of these ways done? Cost?
If it's only partially filled, wouldn't it just be cheaper to use batts to fill the stud cavity and get the same effectiveness of insulation?
> derates wires
It’s obvious that it will. It’s physically impossible not to.
Got a kettle, coffee maker, or toaster oven? Use it once and feel how warm the cord gets at the end. Now use it again after you’ve wrapped the end with foam or other heat insulation. You can melt through the plug in some cases.

Building codes specify the absolute minimum requirements and are not always updated with fads like spray foam.

If you have to, just use rockwool in those areas. At least it’s not plastic— it’s non-flammable rock.

Even better, put it in conduit.

You could also use 12 ga wire and keep the 15A breaker at 15A.

Or all three.

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This stuff is hazardous
Even the orange furnace stuff still kinda burns if a flame is touching it.
Haha…I knew spray foam was bad, but I didn’t think it was that bad…. Government must be desperate to keep the population down by approving that. Of course the fumes would have killed everybody way before any actual fire.

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I took hundreds of pounds of used books from a thrift shop for free, wanting to compost them rather than have them just sent to a landfill. But I quickly realized that shredding them in my dinky shredder will take forever. First I have to rip off the covers, then tear into shredder-friendly groups of pages which are then individually fed into the machine. But the fucking shredder overheats a third of the way through a book and takes like 15 minutes before it's ready again. I wish I just had a giant outdoors blender that I could dump this shit in.

I thought about dissolving them somehow but I don't know what sort of solvents will be safe for composting. Any tips?
Ugh. This drives me batty. Are you in Virginia? Give them to me to be scanned this autumn. I'll hand you back shreds.
You wanna make good compost you're gonna need hundreds of pounds of greens.
Burn them
How about a wood chipper? No, I don't know if it will work - just a suggestion.
Why compost something like that when you can just remove the covers and bring it to a recycling center?
This guy >>2688260 is right, I used to compost newspaper with my garden waste and it does not compost fast at all.

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Who is at the bottom of the tradie totem pole? Is it framers or painters? Or arb*rists?
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Whats so low teir about gutter cleaners? Dont they make good $?
like the other guy said, alarm guys
the sleaziest pieces of shit ever
only correct answer
Yeah what a shitty job

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Does /diy/ mods new refrigerator when they brake to revive them and make them last forever?
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>Old fridges had a big assed condenser coil on the back of the fridge.
Modern cheapshit eurofridges still have that.
The GE Garage ready from the 90s with icemaker, will run all the time if the ice arm is down and cause people to get rid of them.
Put the arm up, clean the fan and the water drain on the back and its good as new
Cutting corners to save money (and endangering others thereby) is also a jewish stereotype.
how the fuck is using an older, cheaper refrigerator endangering others?
That anon you're trying to shit on is complaining about poor QC and manufacturing of modern chinese compressors, etc etc.

It's a fact that newer refrigerators don't tend to last as long as the older units, while being packed with stupid features that a lot of users don't care about in order to justify their insane price tags.

You can go to Lowe's and buy a $2000 fridge that will last 5 years if you want, but I'm going to keep using my $100 craigslist special
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I was expecting anons recommending more reliable custom parts that would run for decades.

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how the fuck are you meant to keep your shop from becoming a disaster?
today i was just looking around in my garage and it's a god damn hellscape. there's shit everywhere. shelves are full of shit. every flat surface has shit on it. i don't understand how you can have a tidy shop, but also know where everything is.
i tried to do bins. i had a rack of tubs with tools that i don't use very often, but i'd have to pull out like 4 different tubs and open them to see if the thing i'm looking for is inside, and then dig around to find the fucking thing and by that point i just find some other tool that will do the job good enough and use that instead.

there has to be a better way.
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Also bought a cheapo garage shelf off facespace. It has those teardrop holes in the uprights for the shelf supports to go into. Some of them are all bent to shit. I should have examined it more closely but oh well. Plan is to drill out the rivets and bolt the shelf brackets to some bed frame angle iron instead. Also the shelves themselves are particle board laminated with some hard plastic. The edges have come off but the top and bottom surfaces are fine. Shelf will be going in a dry area so moisture should not be a concern, but should i coat the edges of the shelf with paint or bedliner to protect the particle board? Also do they make that plastic laminated shelf material with a plywood core? That would be ideal over particle board i would think...
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the organization of your living and work spaces are a direct representation of the inner workings of your mind. if you attempt to adopt someone else's organizational methods then they will be out of sync with your mind and will not work. this is why when you 'tried to do bins' you were unable to adapt, your workflow regressed, and you ended up worse off. you will never be at harmony with your environment if you do this and you will feel like the deer in my picture. your only option when it comes to improving your organizational habits is to work on improving yourself physically, mentally, and spiritually, and your living/work spaces will naturally improve along with you.
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Go large or go home.
Still not big enough...
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I feel your pain, have you tried being a Western European or Japanese?

I know it's time consuming, but you have to tidy up your stuff from time to time, it's very satisfying afterwards.

Im akcually going through the process of cleaning my village shack. I started on Monday, Im going through everything, like checking old paint cans if they still good, emptying all tool boxes to see what is usable and what is rusty useless shit..
It's very satisfying to see the effects, I'm almost done.

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how to fix? brand new, stopped working after i used a bowl from my old rice cooker.
so i opened the bottom, used a voltage tester, detected voltage across several points.
is there a fuse i can't find?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
yeah, but if the lights stay dark, means it don't work
There must be a thermal fuse somewhere.
Easy fix: throw it out, buy a zoji. Not even kidding, mine has been going on 2+ decades now.
I fixed it, thanks guys.
Don't buy Chinese rice cookers
Get a tiger or zojirushi
I bet not even people in China actually use that cheap crap for themselves

Fuck it bros, i'm joining the carpenter's union.

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>dad says I shouldn't change the oil on the tractor (bought new) because it doesn't need its oil changed / oil changes are a scam
>explain it says to change it at 50 hours, and he will be out $4000
>"I change my car oil every 5000km, when the tractor hits 5,000km, I'll change that, and that'll be in 10 years, because the tractor goes 2km at a day at the most"
10 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>also the manufacturer doesn't really have an interest in keeping the engine healthy,

In 4chan neverneverland corporations love it when they sell garbage, because somehow it helps them sell more garbage.

You clowns are pathetic.
>>sell garbage, because somehow it helps them sell more garbage
Yes it's called planned obsolescence and has been around for longer than any of us have been alive. See: lightbulbs.
Try harder the next time you shill/defend the corpoRapists talking points; are they even paying you for this?
Planned obsolescence works for some things. If a company sell absolute garbage and say tough shit though it'll backfire and they will lose credibility. They have to walk a fine line of being too cheap and making crap that no one will ever buy and making things so durable that they will never get a person to buy twice.

On something like a tractor I'd say the overall machine powertrain is still built quite durable, it's all the little plasticy bits in the cab and the electronic modules and computers that will be obsolete after a few years. Most of that stuff can be worked around if you have some know-how, but some of it is pretty integrated.
>my tractor is obsolete, therefore it's garbage
Marathon runners only take a daily shit after running 26 miles so he is forbidden to shit again until he runs 26 miles.

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I have to clean up my toilets shitstains all the time. Who designed this effing toilet. Anyways is there some kind of solution so I don't have to scrub it all the time?
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I don’t know how it’s called in English but there’s these small things you hang from the toilet rim. There are ones with just some perfume shit that don’t work but there are also ones with almost pure bleach in them that last like 150 flushes. You do small flush first so that bleach gets in there and then big flush to effectively bleach was everything away, works 100% of time

Actually healthy poo gives most stains. Too hard is dehydration, lack of fiber, or waiting too long. Too soft is bowel irritation or bad gut health. Sticky-hard to medium-hard is healthy
just bring it with you when you move
>t. German who RITUALLY uses the poop shelf
How big of a spray do you get? I can usually do a solid 31°~35° cone if I drink some milk and hold off until last minute for the lactose to bubble up. Best results have been after eating lots of starch and fiber (rye+rice is good combo). It forms granules that shoot out like shrapnel and are extra sticky. I swear I het some BELOW the rim every other shot. (On work PC now so no pic)
when the bowl is empty and dry spray it with clearcoat/enamel

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Idk if this is the board to ask, but my tv keeps making this screech and showing this screen when I turn the ceiling fan or light on/off. Switched outlets in the room, used surge protector, used power strip, idk what else to try. It doesnt normally bother me but getting irl jumpscared made me almost shit myself at 2am so Im done.
Picrel not my tv but similar screen
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Get an electrician or an exorcist. Either way, you’ve been blessed with a warning before your house burns down/starts dripping blood.
You could try an isolation transformer. You can get one for under $100 but this is /diy/ so why not hack one together?
>2 doorbell transformers from local hardware store
>wire secondaries together
>feed one primary wall AC
>supply TV with other primary
The idea is that the inductive connections in the transformers don't allow whatever electrical noise is in the circuit to pass to the TV. It might work, but the fan or something else about that circuit is fucky.
kek, he'd get 120 volts but only like .2 amps
BONUS: TV pulls more current than the doorbell transformers are rated for and it becomes a space heater until it releases the magic smoke
A power strip surge protector or an actual UPS active suppressor? (like the battery backed-up UPS's used on computers) Power-strip protectors use passive components - they're way too slow to catch interference like that. It's a band-aid for a bigger problem, but it might be all you need. Also, if it's a really old house, with "snap" type switches, they can throw out a hell of an EMF spike.

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