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Looking to make vinyl or plastic out of recyclable plastic
What type of equipment do I need?
The project is (LIKE) hollow vinyl fencing
Kind regards,
5 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>extrusion machine

Something like this... no I don’t.
Not sure about the price point but it’s under 50k USD my project would take 10years to pay for this :/

Might have to outsource.
Yup, making things out of plastic is mostly an economy of scale thing...
This should help you a lot:
That’s pretty neat bud. Thank you.
Actual polymer chemist here

This is a shitty idea because you're not going to get a high molecular weight polymer by depolymerizing styrene at it's ceiling temperature. Also, the ceiling temperature is also dependent on the concentration

Figured out your ceiling temperature? You need to drive the reaction by removing styrene. Acetone will boil at much lower temps than styrene, a better solvent would be cyclohexanone. Distill styrene under vac, collect, depolymerize.

Better maintain exquisite control to attain high MW. You won't get high MW with a home set up and radical iniators, you need anionic initiator and squeaky clean system. Good luck with that without access to a lab.

Overall a shitty idea

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Previously /amg/ - arduino & microcontroller general.

Running low on asian electronics edition.

Microcontrollers (esp32, blue pill, arduino, ...) & single board computers (Raspberry Pi, Banana Pi, ...) welcome.

>What to post
- Questions regarding microcontrollers & single board computers
- Discussion regarding microcontrollers & single board computers
- Projects you are working on

>What should I do with my [insert hardware]?
Look here:

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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hi /amg/
sorry if im being retarded but heres my question, i hope its not confusing:
I want to build a sequencer/wav sampler for a music producer fren of mine. The controller would read wav files from an sd card and play them. Pic related is a sketch of the gadget. The idea is to assign samples to each chanel, there would be 4 channels total. Every channel has its row. Each column is a "step" and when you push start the sampler would iterate through the steps to play the sample if the step is "on" or skip if its "off". You can quickly turn the steps "off" or "on" with buttons, i designed a 4x4 grid for the four channel and 4 step. There will be 16 steps total, divided to 4 "page". You can quickly move to the next or previous page with additional buttons so you can quickly control 1 page at a time with the 4x4 button grid but still have the option to create 16 step loops. Theres a 8x8 led display at the bottom left corner of the device that shows the entire grid(all 4 pages). The tempo is controlled via a BPM knob. I plan to manage the output with 2 dual channel DAC chips for 4 possible output channel.
Now. I know how to code in c but my experience with embedded systems is limited at best. I originally planned to use an arduino for the prototype but i quickly realised that it would be impossible to stream that much data through an 8 bit ARM microcontroller. Wav files can get big(>1mb, ~1mb compressed). So i started to look around for more powerful solutions. It seems to me that for this project I would need something like the ARM Cortex M series microcontrollers.
How in the fuck would I start with something like this. I can get this for cheap in my country:STM32F405RGT6. This is an ARM Cortex M4 in an LQFP64 package if I understood correctly. I have not found a DIP packaged version but I found a DIP adapter for LQFP64. How can I program this shit? If I use a dev board like the STM32 DISCOVERY can I reuse my code if I want to make more of this device?
>how would I get started
I would say you already have started, but I bet there are tons of youtube videos that get into DSM processing or audio processing on ARM evaluation boards.
I do agree that you probably need more than an arduino 8 bit for this. But there are lots of cheap options for 32 bit evaluation boards right now. Stay optimistic and just dig in guy.
Meant to say "DSP on ARM"
>I have not found a DIP packaged version
There are no DIP packaged ARM CPUs. There were a couple from NXP long ago, but that was like 10 years ago cores.
Yeah, the F405, with 1M flash, 192K RAM, and floating-point? It should be plenty for this. I think the main issue is going to be keeping the sound running in a thread or interrupts or something to keep it from skipping and glitching. It's a lot harder than making a couple of servos turn.
For programming it, get one of the many chink ST-Link clones out there, then look for the st-flash utility to talk to it. And an IDE of some sort too.
You're still going to have an easier time starting with a Discovery board, since it handles all the messy soldering and stuff, and it has an ST-Link built in. There's a lot harder stuff to solder than LQFP, but it's still not babby tier.
You already have a pretty good handle on what you want to do from the sounds of it. That STM micro will be sufficient. Atollic TrueStudio is a free IDE that will do what you need. Start with the dev board (make sure you get one with the same micro), you will be able to reuse the code and if anything is going to get you in over your head, it's going to be the software. Once you know whether or not you're going to get away with this, you can design your own board based off of the dev board that has the DACs and other necessary hardware on it, which will make your life a bit easier as long as you can get all of the parts on it (LQFP isn't terribly hard but it's not a pushover). Once you have your own board, you're going to put a debug header on it for programming it using a knockoff ST-Link. My only recommendations are to investigate external SRAM to load the wave files in to. That micro has a memory controller included.

You're taking on a real man's project here; good luck brother.

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There is a 3+ inch void under my driveway and a sunken walkway. Had a polyurethane company give me a quote of 3400 for raising walkway and filling in void below driveway. I would rather do it myself if possible. Is it even possible to fill in the void without specialized equipment?
13 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
How are you going to lift 20,000 lbs driveway for under £100
why do anything? fill the edges with dirt and build a concrete step for the walkway. wait until retirement. have the moving van park on the street ;) and tell the new owners good luck!
Companies are scammers, what's new?
fucking faggots never tamping shit
The slab seems about 10cm thick, so each slab is a couple tons at most.

Still unless you start doing sketchy shit with a gantry crane, machinery to lift it isn't going to be cheap.

anyone have opinions on purchasing, assembling, or living in home "kits?" common styles you might are A-frame cabins, barns, yurts, etc.

im thinking of buying a kit like pic related (yurt-style) so i have a long term, quasi-comfy place to rest while i work on building a cob-based home in the american midwest
163 replies and 25 images omitted. Click here to view.
>hey ran electrical from 100ft away and it seems they can only draw 30amps 120v
What the fuck whyyy
The farmer only allowed them two 15A circuits.
I've always been attracted to the open source ecology project but when trying to dive into details of the machines and what not, information just seems to be missing. I assume they just take a long time to document anything.
Just like with the modular house pieces, the cad files are available but there are no links to build instructions for anything.
>information just seems to be missing
Look into traditional housing first. The EcoHousing movement's products and ideas make more sense once you are able to compare them to outdated traditional methods.
Yes Adam. Allah bless Saddam Hussein

Sup. Currently repairing this Eames Executive style chair that UPS went ahead and fucked up during shipping. Not so much an advice thread as a join me for the ride type deal.
18 replies and 13 images omitted. Click here to view.
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They used two piece of wood and the middle part was empty.
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And it was made of concrete timbering wood. It even has concrete in it.
Fortunately I could replace it with a one piece wood so the chair is usable again and better it was.
It looks like the supports for the wood are only tacked to the frame too, very little weld.
What is it? simulator chair, gamer chair?
It is clearly a china chair. I bet it is made of bat leather.
this is why I'm looking at real car seats for my poverty simrig, don't want anything to do with this stuff

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I just got this low use, first (maybe second) gen Pioneer Elite 60' plasma from the folks.. Thought It was an easy deal. But, the sole HDMI input is not compliant with new devices (PS3/4, BluRay, etc.). I get an "Illegal signal" message when I try to play said device(s). Researched found out that the TV is too old to "handshake" the current HDCP protocol.

So, here are my options:
1.Best bet was finding a device to "strip" the HDCP signal and keep HDMI resolution (1080i).. (and no pirate here)
2. HDMI convert to component (RGB).
3. HDMI convert to RGB (monitor).

I will be running all devices thru a stereo reciever w/ multiple HDMI inputs, so I need the one HDMI signal out from that to go to the TV to be compliant.

Pic related, wat do?
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
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Why not use a home theater receiver that has a component video output?
Not sure.
Get a Chinese HDCP stripper.
That could work, I have a couple of older high end receivers in storage
Just got a DHCP stripper shipped in today, will try after work, and advise. Product reviews say this one will do the trick.

Thanks for the help!
Stripper is probably the better one. But try:
>updating TV
>run it through your receiver to see if it fixes itself.
I don't think those will work, as I think HDCP requires new chips, not just new firmware.Basically, HDCP is a copy protection measure, and you need new hardware to make it work.
Component is shit, max res is like 480i or something? IMHO, you're better off buying a new TV. Plasma is not that great.

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Anyone have experience with diy studio monitors?
I want to make a pair for producing and mixing techno/electronic music.

Where should i start?

Budget is around 200$ for drivers
i'll bump ur thread, fren
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I have made a subwoofer, it's not exactly "studio monitor" but it makes the job
First thing you have to do is learning about speaker cabs design (bass reflex and shit) and finding a cab calculation software because it's not easy

Some parameters you have to take in consideration:
>The frequency range you want for each speakers
>The air volume displacement of the speakers (especially for the big loud ones)

Also, we have a board for DIY
I'll do you $60 better.

Look up Paul Carmody if you want the specs and to cut yourself. The flatpack is pretty smooth sailing. Still quite a bit of work though.
So if you want to properly design a cabinet around your driver, then you need to follow this advice. You'll need to know the resonant frequency and a bunch of other shit about the driver. Parts Express is the best for providing the necessary specs.
You'll need to do the opposite if you already have a cabinet and want to install a new driver. In my experience this is much harder than it sounds, because you have to match the box volume, sealed or ported, to the speaker, and you can't change the cabinet size. So, you just have to hope to find a compatible speaker and seal the port or install a new port if your cabinet volume only matches one. I have done this before, but really just got lucky. I had to seal a port, and it was easier than anticipated (was able to stuff something in the port and get a good seal without taking up volume). If porting, you'll have to calculate the port frequency and tune. So, get an adjustible legth port.
All of that is why I suggested the ONS designed by Carmody. Also maybe consider the Tri Trix. I would avoid attempting a transmission line build on your first build. That is a lot of work and design. Basically, if you are new to speaker building, the ONS is the way to go, and it fits your need. I have some I stained in pecan as my daily drivers for home theater. They sound great. Need a sub though.
That looks like a Dayton kit in OP. I have their bookshelfs as my computer speakers and they are pretty legit. If you want a tiny amp, I suggest the Lapai.

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In pic there is the mixer of my shower. It leaks water and i need to repair or change it. I unmounted it like shown in picture but don't know how to proceed now.
Is there some way to fix it without breaking the wall? I read about changing the "cartridge" but i'm not sure if my model have it.
Bumping for interest.
Have a similar situation where I want to replace pipe in the wall and shower head and wondering if can get away with not fucking my entire shower wall with a tile saw.
Make access panel on opposite side you dope. Use sharpbites
>I unmounted it like shown in picture
All you did was take the trim pieces off. If you can't get the cartridge out of the valve body you will have to open the wall from the opposite side and replace the whole rough-in valve.

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How do I unscrew this round element in pic related? The left one went easily but the right one's thread might be full of lime or rust, or maybe just too tight, and won't budge. It doesn't help that the fucking thing has no flat surface cuts to apply a wrench to.

I tried soaking it in lime remover, WD-40, and tapping it with a hammer, hoping it would loosen up any lime/rust, but that didn't help.

Wat do?
Maybe a strap wrench?
Those rubber grippy things for opening bottles. Or the underside of an old mouse mat to give you a bit more grip.
Pipe wrench and rag
>The left one went easily

That's because it has "normal" right hand threads. The other one has left hand threads. The problem is that you just tightened the hell out of it. Use extreme force in the correct direction and it will break free.

t.plumber's helper
OP here. Latex glove for good grip and the force of sheer frustration finally did the trick.

>you just tightened the hell out of it
Nah, they both unscrew counter-clockwise, as expected. It's just that the right one was full of lime.

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Hi /diy/ ! I don't often come here, so I'm gonna try to go to the essentials !

So recently I draw on a toilet seat for fun (pic related), and turns out that a lot of people liked it, and ask me to do some for them.
So the thing is that the one that I got is supposed to stay on the wall, but people want them to actually use it. And that's the problem, because the ink will go away if you put your ass on it.

So, here's my question : what product would you advice to keep the draw intact, not dangerous for the skin (once it's dry) and let you clean the seat easily with no danger for the draw ?

Thanks in advance Anons !
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
why do you hate fun
Can confirm, your current pens may have to change to stay crisp under any protection
Really great idea! You should experiment with it and may have a product people will buy! Maybe epoxy?
Nail polish.
Hell, make the drawing in nail polish
4chan is very serious business, have to keep my waifu in (You)s you know. I'm no deadbeat.

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Since 2003, asbestos has been banned as a construction material, here in the European Union. Whenever you encounter old asbestos, you can bring it to a recycling center. This makes me curious. What happens next? What are the possibilities?
69 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
>hasn't seen strokeposter before
shit I'm sorry to hear it bro.
we had those in the bathroom when i was a kid. one of my favorite things to do at about 7 (so, 1988ish?) was pulling them up with a plunger. i never understood why my parents got so pissed until i got older and learned about asbestos. they weren't mad, they were afraid for my safety. wish i could tell them i get it now, but they've been gone for 25 years. huh...thanks for the pic, anon; triggered a trip down memory lane.
is it even possible to get 9x9 tiles anymore? I really like the smaller grid size so I can customize the floor pattern a bit more in smaller rooms. 12x12 is just too big sometimes
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Have some more of that green tile friend
>I'm a NEET. I just think asbestos is a cool material. I don't give a shit about the working class, I've met them and they're retards.
include me in the screencap pls

>Doing some electrical /diy/ (UK)
>replacing face plates
>one of the sockets has 3 wires
>Assume it's a spur to the socket on the other side of the wall
>new socket terminals are in different locations
>back box is small with no room for manoeuvre
>only room for 2 connections

>initially leave out the assumed spur
>3 random sockets in the house stop working
>switch it around
>other sockets randomly fail
>try 3rd orientation
>other sockets back on, but the actual socket itself failing

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.

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Arduino (C++) coding HALP (POKER Straight)

- Need to write bool function to determine straight hand in poker.
- return TRUE if all five cards are in numerical sequence (e.g. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7), else return FALSE.
- An Ace can come before a 2 (A, 2, 3, 4, 5) or after a King (10, J, Q, K, A)
- Straight cannot “wrap around” (i.e. Q, K, A, 2, 3).

(The values (Ace to King) of the five cards are stored in a 5-element array called cardValue and are represented by the numbers 1 (Ace) to 13 (King).)

Will think of reward for solution, ty peeps.
35 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
Does this really save any effort over just checking if each card in the hand is 1 more than the previous card
find the lowest number in cardValue then check if that value +1/2/3/4 is present in cardValue
for handling Aces when you're reading your values in at the beginning declare the array dynamically (malloc()) and if you encounter an Ace read in both 1 and 14, just make sure if you declare dynamically that you have a variable counting the number of cells and use that in your loops instead of i<=4 or whatever

bool isStraight(){

short count = 0;
short offset = cardValue[0];

while (count == cardValue[count] - offset) {

if (count == 5) {return true;}
//special case, A(1) comes after K(13)
else if ((count == 4) && (cardValue[3] == 13) && (cardValue[4] == 1)) {
return true;

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
Sorry, should be:

if (count >= 5) {return true;}
1. J, Q, K, A should have the values 11, 12, 13, 1 respectively
2. sort the hand you have in increasing order. for example if the hand is (3, 5, 6, 2, 4) you want it sorted into (2, 3, 4, 5, 6)
3. make a new sequence that starts with the first element of the sorted hand sequence and use it to form your target numerical sequence. for example if your sorted hand is (4, 5, J, Q, K) you take the number 4 and based on it generate the following list: (4, 5, 6, 7, 8). that's your target list.
4. Compare the two sequences and if every element is the same OR if the sorted hand equals (1, 10, J, Q, K) return true. Otherwise return false

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14 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>matters that using the readout of your power supply

*that he's using the readout of his
>If you mean the one time he rounds down 5.9 to 5.0 and gets 10 instead of 12, who gives a shit? It doesn't meaningfully affect anything.
There's points where he "rounds" down 1A to 0.5A, like his errors are way out.

>and that its advantage is that it can use low-grade waste heat or solar heat to make it very cost-effective to run.
It's the same problem as sticking a stirling engine or peltier modules on points where there's "waste" heat, they don't allow you to break the laws of thermodynamics. There's a reason he's got a gas burner heating the thing up and he doesn't go into detail on the power rating for said gas burner, it's a lot of energy being pumped in. If you have it powered by solar you'd still need a significant amount of energy going into the system for it to work.
>There's points where he "rounds" down 1A to 0.5A, like his errors are way out.

Even if this is true, it's still not significant enough to affect the results in any meaningful way.

>It's the same problem as sticking a stirling engine or peltier modules on points where there's "waste" heat, they don't allow you to break the laws of thermodynamics.

So? This doesn't, either. It's well-known (and, again, pointed out in the video) that desiccant coolers are pretty shitty in terms of thermodynamic efficiency.

>There's a reason he's got a gas burner heating the thing up and he doesn't go into detail on the power rating for said gas burner

Yeah, it's a convenient source of heat and its power rating doesn't matter. At least, not as long as you're even in the ballpark with your estimate of what it is. Just guessing based on the size of the flame, I seriously doubt it's putting out more than a couple hundred watts.

>If you have it powered by solar you'd still need a significant amount of energy going into the system for it to work.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The other anon already broke it down, but there wasn't anything wrong with the AC video, I can't even imagine what would give you the impression that he was pushing a perpetual motion machine. Maybe you have ADHD and had to be doing five other things while watching the video and missed all the parts where he points out all the flaws of the design. For certain circumstances it's still a practical system and an interesting /diy/ project, and that's all they were presenting it as, not some clickbait next generation AC-killer.
>Even if this is true
It is true. It's a factor of 2 in his power calculations.
>So? This doesn't, either. It's well-known (and, again, pointed out in the video) that desiccant coolers are pretty shitty in terms of thermodynamic efficiency.
It's the argument that "you can just use waste heat bro!" that's the problem, you still need to put in a lot of heat because it requires that differential to extract work from, there's a point where you cannot extract useful work from waste heat (which is why it's waste).

>I can't even imagine what would give you the impression that he was pushing a perpetual motion machine. Maybe you have ADHD and had to be doing five other things while watching the video and missed all the parts where he points out all the flaws of the design.
I mean where he's claiming "you can just use waste heat bro!" that is breaking thermodynamics and is a perpetual motion machine, it's a stupid claim, and you'd know this if you knew a bit more. That's not to say the general idea is bad, he's taken it from other designs, but the discussion and explanation is stupid.

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>all basement bedrooms must have an escape window

In this area of chicago all the basements are 5' concrete wall to grade and small glass block windows above that. There's no way I could convert that to an egress.
Yet there are tons of mexican families in this area with the same kind of house that have people living in the basement and im positive they dont have escape windows. Do I just have to say to the inspector this is a rec/study room not a sleeping room?
(ignore the walls, they are all getting removed for a new project, the original was done in the 60s)
23 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
im in luck, this would just be for an extra rec room/bedroom for a single family dweling. the upstairs only has two beds which is okay but cramped.
i thought about putting a bathroom in down there, but they'd have to cut a trench in the concrete floor and pipe out the waste into the existing lines. sounds like a ton of money.
electrician pros sounds fine to me, I'll just make sure i have it all planned out so i can tell them where i want outlets. lights, etc.
i'll probably be back in a few months to ask more specific questions later.
but here's one for now, when i remove the old non-bearing walls in the basment, how do you remove the bottom plate anchor bolts, do you just saw them off in place? The new stud walls can have a different spacing for the bolts so I wont need to worry abouy the leftover in the concrete floor
If you are finding anchor bolts then consult a professional before removing the wall.
adding a bathroom if not too hard you just rent a concrete saw to cut the floor or spend days with a hammer drill drilling lines of holes if your really cheap. you can do the plumbing yourself and pass inspection if you spend a few hours reading how to do it right like the difference between a 45 and a sanitary T

you can frame the entire place with 2x4 a miter saw hammer and nails in a day. another 3 days to drywall and mud it halfasssed. make friends with an electrician and tom sawyer them with beer to do your electrical for real cheap.
I've seen one of these in my neighborhood and they have a metal grate over top of it lol
This guy gets it

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