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They said "plain with the grain" but how do I know from which starting point I am supposed to follow the grain?
Is that what you’re planing? Enjoy nicking your knives
Sometimes you just have to pick the lesser of two shitty options. If possible, stop short of your target and finish with something less aggressive. A drum or wide belt sander is ideal, a hand plane could work with a really sharp blade and shallow passes.
Good luck.
exotic across
sometimes you can feel it just by running your finger across it, the direction that feels smoother is the direction to plane, alternatively set your plane really shallow and take a few cuts both ways it should be obvious after this, good luck with the knot lol keep your cuts shallow
Dense woods: high angle cuts, scraping cuts. piece securely clamped.
Soft woods: low angle cuts, slicing cuts. can angle plane blade.

As for me, softwoods are not even worrying about especially if there is a hard knot. You can chisel out the knot and insert a straight grained piece of wood.

Going to buy two suction cups to climb a skyscraper. How can I connect a stirrup/harness to my feet like in pic? They didnt show the details at all in the episode.
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so your in china and hungry. post live feed during your escape

well, enjoy dying, retard.
On a mission ay
Watch Mission Impossible: Ghost Protocol before you do this. Trust me bro

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I found this tool battery on the side of the road and it seems to be fine. I don't have the charger but I determined it was 12 cells in 6s2p configuration, and the battery is rated for 3.3ah
Charging it at 25.2v limit and 1C and it seems to be charging normally so far.

Why would someone discard what seems to be a perfectly usable battery?
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BigLED hands typed this.
It's never a bad idea to underdrive LEDs in any case.

Add a dimming knob
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It's a 58v 5A led rated at something close to 25,000lm. It's the brightest single cob led I know of, thanks to its impressive 95cri
On paper it will run for 10 minutes on this battery, though it will hit thermals in just under 2 minutes

It's next. I am not sure if I want to under volt or drop the amperage. I can do both with this driver.
It's as simple as replacing the trim pot with a bigger one that has a knob and installing a voltage/current gauge.
A screwdriver

Added temperature monitoring today. Unfortunately the only gauge I could find is in burger units, I'm sorry.
I've ran it so far nearly 3 minutes total and it still shows full charge
What do you use them for? Home defense?
I was testing the cvm-32 for vehicle based use but then kinda got bored with the project for about two years. That's why I used such a fuck off huge driver because it can almost fully drive the led off 12v at a fucking astonishing 35A input. It could be a third the size with this 22v battery.

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Hey /diy/
First time poster. First time Car Owner. Ill try to be brief
>be me [ Software Engineer ]
>buy Ford Fiesta 2011 SES [ /o/ reccomended ]
>Gonna install a laptop mount
>Want to hook it up to the car to monitor things like speed, gears, rpm, etc.
>Dont know how [ Bluetooth? Wire? ]
>Dont know if its possible

Basically what I want to do is:
>Car turned on.
>=Laptop starts recording dash cam.

>Car geared to reverse
>=Rear Custom view camera activated

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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google exists.
i know there's a guy who did a self made ECU fuckery study, essentially manipulated the car w software (2010/2011 models i think) to falsify tachometer, etc.
No niggers will still steal you laptop
Wait until you spend a few months commuting in bumper to bumper stop/go traffic. Thats when the real fun begins. I still miss my 5 speed though.
What if I make it look like my interior is a police car?
Or what if I move to a place with no blacks?
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>buying a ford

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what lawn mower model should I get?
would be nice if it had a shovel attachment to move garden stuff around
I have around 0.7 acre of lawn to take care of
is husqvarna any good?
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Flooding? Linkage bullshit?
Stinging nettle and thistles (the pic was thistles, btw) are two different things. Though they both have pokey bits, thistles just poke you while nettles tend to poke you and inject toxins that can cause some really nasty reactions.
I remember being told once that thistles are really easy to pull out (with some nice thick gloves) because their roots are designed to break off and start re-growing, which is why you can pull them and they'll just come right back.
not enough information.
what engine model number (stamped somewhere on it)?
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Bite the bullet and buy a commercial mower. Even a $1000 walk-behind. Go for a 48" toro,exmark,deere,scag,etc. They have commercial Kawi/briggs/kohlers on them so all you have to do is keep up on the maintenance, the deck is much thicker so it won't rust out, you can actually grease the thing, instead of changing parts out.
Seasons don't fear the reaper

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I just got this old Zenith CRT, only paid a few bucks for it, but when I plugged it in it does this. Any ideas for fixing it or is it just not worth it? I opened up the back of it and can't really see anything that looks wrong.
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Didn't do anything. Better luck next time Fonzie.
Try a different source. I seem to remember having a NES that would spaz out like that sometimes.
That was the first thing I tried, hooked it up to another CRT I have and it worked fine.
Try switching from CATV to VHF/UHF
Didn't do anything.

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what /diy/ projects can I do with pic related?
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Cloud chamber?
>implying there ever was a pandemic
Pointy umbrella for getting rid of undesirable?
It's an Am-241 button (presumably) from a smoke detector. They emit a decent amount of alpha radiation.
Whoa, is that what some boyscout used in mass quantity to make something he shouldn't have a long time ago?

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Tried to hang myself earlier but my dumb ass tied the rope in the wrong place around the light so when I kicked the chair I just fell and the light smacked into my head.

Now I need help knowing how to reattach the light onto the fan. Please don't give any other tips I just need to fix the fan.
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My check engine light came on.
This is just the universe balancing itself.
Lets be honest here.
You could have tied it right and just tore the whole fan out.
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Use duct tape
Finish the job so you don’t have to fix the fan.

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What's the best way to seal a garage floor and protect rom oil stains and such? Acrylic? Epoxy? Polyurethane? Something else?
How long after pouring the concrete should one wait to seal it? Days? Weeks?
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Epoxy, wait 21 days or until a tremec tests low enough RH, diamond grind, coat X 2.
Use epoxy on steel and concrete. Apply it in layers. 1st layer goes tons of epoxy 2nd go thinner and 3rd just a light coat. Sand and such before hand of course.

You can buy a tool and check the milage if you want.
Let it cure for 30-40 days after pour.
1. Apply epoxy w/ sand between layers for antislip.
2. Grind it flat and then a densifier and a clear finish. Will be a little more slippy but you get to see the rocks in the concrete.
Had this self poured epoxy floor at previous garage. It’s great but you should really add the confetti stuff because it’s a lot more difficult to see depth on a smooth evenly coloured floor surface.

Afaik you put a drop of water on it, if it creates a wet spot, the concrete isn’t ready. If it remains a solid drop, it’s okay. May take 2/3/4/5 weeks. Did an anti slip PU coating once too, it’s arguably easier, they say it’s not as strong, but haven’t noticed that. It is ‘softer’ though, things bounce and break less when you drop them.
Would not recommend the anti slip fiber kind of stuff because it’s really hard to get even with a roller
Thanks for the tips.

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why build houses so close together?
i know the obvious answer is utilities but i'm house shopping in a remote rural area where the only public utility is electric and even on hectare+ sized properties the houses are built right next to each other
all i want is a big back yard i can pee freely in without some next door homo watching me
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>why yes I do want to live 10km away from the nearest school/shop/restaurant/etc. because we decided to place all houses 200 metres apart
Houses should be built 50km away from each other minimum so I can scream and shout like a schizo and swing my dick around in the open without anyone noticing or caring
Because people disappear when they live on their own. Skinwalkers are very real.
Because the developers are all in with the politicians to limit building codes and because boomers demand to have utilities run no matter how far from cities they live.
I wouldn't worry about it.

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Due to reasons I have to use an old portable AC to cool my room.
I know they are horrendous efficiency-wise, but I'd still like to improve it if possible.
One strategy I've considered is insulating the exhaust tube, but I'm not sure how effective this would be.
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I'm thinking of buying one this year, anything to look out for other than getting a two hose unit? Window units and splits are out of question due to costing several times more, for now we only get few weeks when heat is bad enough to need AC.

I was initially looking for one as quiet as possible but it seems they're all fucking loud so instead I'll just cool the room as far as possible before sleeping and hope it's enough.

The room is on the eastern side so I'm also thinking of making some white-painted covers for the windows out of cardboard or something in order to stop the sun heating the room up, I have blackout curtains but they're dark and there's space between them and window pane where air gets heated up.
Insulating the exhaust hose helps alot. Used something like this one mine

Doesn't solve the issue of the overall inefficiency of a portable AC, but at least keeps the heat from dumping off the hose.
Minimize heat sources. Awnings can help with sunny rooms. They're probably better than blackout curtains since the sun light won't shine directly in the home to create a greenhouse effect. If no awning, then white curtains are better than nothing but you'll want to move stagnant air outside
Problem with swamp coolers is that it raises the humidity quite a bit, meaning the room might be cooler but you can't sweat as easily. At least for me I end up feeling hotter in a humid 80* than a dry 90.

It's been a while since I did any plumbing and a number of people have recommended SharkBite. Sounded like a great idea until I looked at the prices. A copper cap is around $8 vs a soldered one for $1. Seems like a lot of money to avoid soldering. I'm putting in some new hot/cold water lines for a sink. Would SharkBite/PEX justify the added expense over copper tubing and fittings?
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In a wall repairing old piping or new install? Use pen and the appropriate fittings.
Installing a new heater or water filter? Use shark bite.
>it’s still be easier to swap out than copper though.
True. If i had galvanized that is rusted through or pinholed copper, I'd probably go with PEX no matter how I hate it, because it would give me 10 years to think. Or maybe longer if my water wasn't so aggressive to plastics.
More nuanced that 1 size all....

Copper has its uses but in colder climates subject to exposure, is a risk. PEX too, but coppers' thermal properties are riskier.
Having had to maintenance my own house pex, which was crimp, I found it easy enough to deal w/ and fix. Compression seems way to go though, as copper is absurdly priced and water variation can obliterate it in under a decade depending on locale, triggering water filtration system to combat that. You're paying either way, short or long-term if you skimp on any part of the entry to exit.
From Complete?
It's only use is for repairs and never behind walls. I know it's allowed but I don't personally trust them. I used one recently to quickly jump from pex to copper while fixing my hot water tank, didn't have the space to solder without turning it into a major project.

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My boss just got a new industrial laser cutter for the shop.
It's not in its own room and that's already given me some concern
There's only one pair of laser goggles and those are for when you're working with the machine
But I've been wanting to wear them all the time that I'm in the shop because I don't want a laser to my eye.

Ever since that machine landed in our shop I'll see blinding flashes of light in the corner of my vision, but it's never long enough to prove to others it's flashes from the laser cutter.

They think I'm just seeing things. But I know what I saw.

What can I do?
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you're right, I fucking well can't read, can I?

Yeah... Megawatt, Kilowatt, watt the fuck am I typing, more like.
I would like to say it was just a brainfart, but, lets be honest, I am evidently retarded, and I also fucked up royally.
To be fair, UV will also fuck your eyes up despite being invisible. Especially if OP's boss/coworkers dont follow proper laser safety or if the boss cheapest out on laser protection
ok so stand on the moon when you use laser cutter on the earth and you will be fine op
it's him, he thinks he's clever.
The problem is that light is incredibly long lived. While people are right that it does lose intensity fast as you get further away, the light can accumulate in the room and eventually diffuse. Its much lighter than air and never decays, so its really just a matter of time until enough lift accumulates to do damage, unless the room properly ventilates the excess light.

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Would it be cheaper to buy a used home, or building a home from scratch? Preferably a 1k sq ft home
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Clearly this is the work of a third rate illusionist barely fit to perform coin tricks.
It really depends. How nice do you want it? How much labor can you provide? How soon do you need it? If you have land and access to utilities then maybe.
That's exactly what this is
modern houses are globohomo as fuck. you can choose grey, light grey, dark grey and if your are feeling extra spicy.......off white. i cant stand seeing these cookie cutter houses built up in sprawling communities. its the basic spic design that the basic spic can do. lacks soul.
reject modernity, embrace tradition.
Lot of factors. It can be either. Talk with a contractor to get an idea of the price of what you want.

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The foundation of my detached garage has a big break running through it, what's the best way to repair it? I want the floor smooth in there so I can sweep.
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Sweep shit into the Crack until it fills up...
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They poured ur slab really thin in that spot
A floor slab is not foundation
Take any jack hammer
Just crack that shit of the floor open in one of teh crack spots. Like 50cm x 50cm square.
Assess what is going on below. Did the ground sunk? How THICC is that concrete? Poke holes in a ground, maybe it is just to soft.
Basically smash shit out those cracks, at least 30cm in both sides of the crack. Lay some rebar, incorporate rebar into old contrete. Pour some betocontact on everything. Pour new slab on top.
Easiest fix would be expanding foam to lift it up back and then fix just the crack. Consult somebody who has done it before, you don't want your floor touching roof in 10 seconds.
Jewish hands typed this.

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