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I need to strip 24AWG and 5AWG wires and cables.

What are some good strippers? I don't wanna get screwed by chinesium, I'd rather just get it right first try.

Should I just get one that does it all or two separate ones?
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I use the vise grip ones for general
use and the shitty red ones for military splicing in tight spaces or on wires that are prone to breaking, like the 24 gauge wire toyota likes to use
for 8awg and up I just use a razor blade
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the mother of all strippers
I think you still have 6 through 1 AWG before you get to the oughts.
>source: 2017 NEC, Chapter 9 Table 8
what is this tool called. I have one from an electronics kit - I thought it was for cutting, not stripping.
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What are these red drill bits that carpenters all use? I've seen it in numerous videos now. Is it some particular brand?
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I've seen china bits in all sorts of colors. I don't think it's anything brand specific or special.
Some are colored to indicate it has been heat treated for impact use.
some brands are color coded for different sized shit, of course you should just be using square drive master race. and yes its painted white.
robertsons are colour coded. red is #2 (the middle size common in screws) greens are the smaller ones you find on receptacles (at least in canaderp, i imagine in the US screws are all either stars or stipes)
America can't into Robertson, they keep using Phillips and positive, kek. Also yeah #2 Robertson.

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I insulated and put up the gypsum plaster boards, but I forgot the humidity barrier foil.

Can I put it over the plasterboard?

Should I put it behidn the palsterboard in the last third I havent done yet, then ontop of the plasterboard for the other 2/3 ?

What do guise : I

Is it vital to put up the humidity barrier foil? Does it matter on what side of the plasterboard its on?
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No I have a builder I need t know tonight if I should tell him to take down the sheets and put up a vapour sheet or not
Yes Anon, put the vapour sheet. If your builder forgot to do it, get them to fix it and then fire them immediately.
Depends on where your at. Here in the Pacific Northwest its not required as the primer on the sheetrock provides the needed barrier.
To add, you have to caulk the inside exterior wall bottom plates and adjoining corners.
To add, I just realized its a mobile home, BURN IT.

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BOOBA Edition
Old thread: >>1961566
All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/AKqpcyN5

>Your print failed? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Slicer & slicer settings

>What printer should I buy? [Last updated 12-8-2020]
Under 250 USD: Creality Ender 3 (Pro), Anycubic Mega S

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So I snapped a lead on my hotend heat element due to accidental rough handling so I ordered a new one from the same company (e3d) with the same specs as the last one but this new one is very weak, thermal runaway from having the parts cooling fan on full blast, what might be the cause? is it possible that the screws in the terminal aren't properly tightened leading to a large amount of resistance and not much power going through?
New Thread
If it's anything like a glass/hdpe/ldpe mix then it melts to your skin and you scream and thrash violently as you look for a water source to cool it down.

Then, when you get to the burn ward they have to cut out the plastic which is easy because the skin essentially bubbles and sloughs off because of the 3rd degree burns you have received, after that comes the skin grafts, possible plastic surgery, and recovery.

Trust me it's not pretty, and you should always wear a face shield around industrial extruders when they purge and change dies.
It would be extremely painful
Are you sure your screen resolution is set correctly? Have you tried it in prusa slicer?

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Can someone recommend me a "DC Power Suply" which costs between $50 and $120(actually more like under 80$, I am poorfag)? I found pic related but am not sure how good it is.
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Not OP but opinions on this one?


0-30V and 0-10 amps. I'd mostly be using it for testing automotive stuff and maybe charging some items/batteries.

Would also get this kit: https://www.banggood.com/37Pcs-Universal-AC-DC-Jack-Charger-Connector-Plug-AC-DC-Power-Adapter-for-Laptop-Notebook-with-Cable-p-1174908.html?cur_warehouse=CN#jsReviewsWrap for the battery charging. Would allow me to get rid of a bunch of wall-worts for certain specific things.
get a vintage supply and recap it, the Chinese ones are horrendous

either HP62xx series or power designs or Lambda or Harrison
Heres my picks for nice bench supplies. mind you i like the vintage stuff so its best to get one of those cheap chinese component testers to help you re-cap the supply.

Ebay item number 231477264705
One of these small units is nice for low power low noise work.

Kind of the same thing: very nice bench power supplies made by Harrison : 283566721681

This one: i had one of these units and i regret getting rid of it to this day: 183188555439

I would seriously consider getting either a HP/Harrison or a Delta Elektronika unit. Those will take the chinese junk to the woodshed any day of the week in therms of reliability, build quality and output noise.
Here's a video of the teardown on a power designs unit.

I have a cheap piece of shit like in your pic and it hasn't burnt my house down yet but I don't even let it be plugged in out of my sight

I want to make a lovenest for me and my wife in the woods behind my house. I'm a complete diy/let so nothing complex but I'm hoping this would be the first project of many. What do I do and what would you have me read or watch to do it properly. Pic was best I could find an underground room basicly but easier and cheaper. Thanks in advance for all replies.
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Why would you work them on anything but ur penor? Wife can join the prepping for the senpai that plays together stays together.
I dont think they should be allowed to swim in the pool like that
wow OP anons didn't take your post seriously at all did they? I'm with them......
the roof will collapse on your head lmao
>Post that picture
What about moisture penetration, temperature control and air quality?

I have a noisy baseboard heater making all kinds of racket at night. Not just a pinging noise but more like water pouring down into a pot. This is from my second floor. I have a an air bleeder in the 3rd floor but only water xomes out.
Found this thing in the closet on the 3rd floor vut no idea what it does. (Pic releated)

Plumbers and HVAC techs. Lend me yout insights.
There should be more then one bleeder. There is probably air trapped in one of the other zones or loops.
That thing is a zone control valve. https://www.parksupplyofamerica.com/Honeywell-Electric-Zone-Valve_17
It should open when you turn the 3rd floor thermostat on. If its closed that might be trapping air.

Turn all the thermostats on and find all the bleeders and go through them all with the system running.
Thanks for the advice!

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What should we put in a cube next?
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wow. thanks for the heads up. He's number one on my page (I block a lot of crap subs). And he has garnered 105 awards. That's pretty impressive.
Did that guy ever give an update
What does your meta reddit meme video have to do with epoxy blocks anon?
Seems a little bit offtopic
There's no way to be sure unless he does something like a shoutout in a vid or a comment on his channel, but my guess is that the youtube guy hasn't posted in this thread, and it's normal channers who enjoy his crafting along with his delightful sense of humor. The whole "make a banana for scale" is fiendishly clever.
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why are you on 4chan, dipshit? go back to your shithole. quit spamming plebbit on here.

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Hello anons, i really want some way to earn money, by crafting something or other way, irl or online, bitte.
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Never sell your first house. Rent it out and use the income to either pay it off or pay off the next house.
>buying or building multiple houses
Why do americans do this? I inherited my house from my grandparents, it's 120 years old but built very solid and over the years we have renewed a lot of stuff. It was way cheaper than building only one of thw american wooden houses that get destroyed by the next storm and I could make everything suit my needs and preferences.
Oh and it looks more individual and less NPC than the typical white houses suburb
>building only one of thw american wooden houses that get destroyed by the next storm

In terms of actual numbers per capita, that pretty much never happens, sorta like how you pretty much never have an earthquake in Asscrackistan but when you do, your tent falls over and maybe smothers your cutest goat. Ok, I see your point.
Sure that was more of a metaphor for cheap but fragile vs exepnsive but rugged houses
>Never sell your first house. Rent it out and use the income to either pay it off or pay off the next house
when was the last time you paid for housing? that's not even remotely close to how the market works now

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hey /diy/, can anybody recommend software to emulate gears, racks, pinions, threaded rods, etc? I'm trying to design a hand crank lift system for a project and it'd be really nice to have some software to sort out this puzzle.

preferably a software that has a library of objects i could drag and drop in.
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Most plastic gears for toy motors have whats called a squeeze fit. The gear hole is smaller than the shaft. When you squeeze it on, the force reaction from deflection should provide enough friction for grip.
aren't the labels swapped in this pic?
or have i always known them wrong?
I know right. OP's fucking with us.
Labels are swapped.
Matthias Wandel (he has a youtube channel) has software tools/templates on his website:

I wanna make inconspicuously protective clothing. Something between gambeson and Myeonje baegab ( if you don't know, look it up, pretty cool). I was considering incorporating some Kevlar leftover from another project. Questions are:
What fabric would you recommend? cotton, linen, wool, cordura, etc. How many layers? Could anyone provide any tips as to how to make it as far as making patterns, measuring the material needed, and so on? Also, if anyone has experience sewing Kevlar: I have some yards of 6" tape used for laminating and resin work. The weave is quite loose. Should I not bother using it for that purpose and get my hands on some proper fabric instead? What kind of thread should be used to sew Kevlar anyway. Sorry for bombarding you with so many obvious questions; I've only read a handful of articles, looked at youtube vids and some documentation from online gambeson sellers, but it seems to open up the door to more questions than anything else.
thanks for you help
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Came across this gem, guy is woking with resin-fiberglass-kevlar plate

Layering is 45° to 90° (Diagonal to lateral direction) thread run. Keeping strength and formability in mind, is possible to go with silicone coatings instead of resin for a flexible option.

But, the layering and silicone of choice would make a large difference in the end cure.
-any updates OP?
My dumbass forgot the link

Chad gamebeson will look like pic related
Nylon ripstop fabric is a good choice of material. $20 can get you a camping hammock that will provide many layers. It's thin, but tough. Many layers.
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There are much more modern takes on the Gambeson, made for HEMA sparring. This SPES jacket is puncture resistant and has attachable plates. Use something like that as a pattern, maybe based of a Army ACU jacket.
Another option would be to start with a kevlar hoodie and pad it with your choice of fibers. These are fairly popular with motorcyclists. Add layers of denim and plastic on the inside in vulnerable areas.

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need halp with bar sink.
I made a wet bar and the sink clips that came with it don't seem to work (I bought this off kijiji).
The lip is just that, a lip, all other drop in sinks I see they have a rail that the sink clip slides into so it actually holds onto the sink.
Any suggestions?
These look exactly like the sink clips I am using
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Here is a crude representation of what it should be like

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Post tools you never knew you needed, or maybe never even knew existed before you bought your first home.

Siding removal tool, also works to get access into the soffit.

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Any ideas on how to separate the plate from the Table legs would be highly appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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It is possible that I can unscrew the leg, great idea will try it out ASAP thanks a lot !
Personally a band would be my choice
unscrew it, might be a single lag type or a few long wood screws holding it in place
There's a circular grinding on that plate. It's possible that it was glued on. Not highly likely, but something to check for. I've seen it before
Actually, if I'm not mistaken, that looks like glue at the seem. If it is indeed glued, cut straight through it. One side or the other will be missing material by the time you're through with it

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Hello guys,

Can someone tell what kind of Led is this and how to replace it ? It looks like cable are directly soldered to the led im not sure i can replace it easily.
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This. Though before you do this, get a multimeter and check the voltage between the soldered + and - pad on a functional unit while it's on so you know what replacement you need to buy. Also check the back to see if there are components on it or not and if there is a power supply or not that may be the culprit, though I personally have not used any such led chips myself so I can't say for certain.
>It looks like cable are directly soldered to the led im not sure i can replace it easily.
Unsolder the connections and get a replacement led pcb in the same form with the same rating and solder it back on and you're good to go.

This one looks like a similar one, but make sure to check the voltage and dimensions: https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_AsClak
It's almost always the driver circuit that turns to shit, not the LED itself.
looks like a luxeon or seoul or cree LED
somewhere in that family
It's a cob led (Chip On Board)
This. Unscrew the LED base, and see if there is a power supply behind it. If yes, it is very possible that some capacitors on it are damaged.

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