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So I've been wanting to make a CNC and the OX CNC seems a good candidate for something in the 4 x 2 or 4 x 3 foot range. I like to make replicas of stuff from shows and other stuff and 3D printing doesn't work well in large scale.

Seems I could manage this somewhere in the ballpark of 1000 or a bit more. Anyone have experience with OX CNC or something close? I would love some input before I'm out 1000 and a ton of hours of assembly and board/software setup.
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Yes the conduit is pretty flimsy and the bearings riding on the soft conduit wear grooves almost immediately, but the plastic pieces really arent as stiff as they need to be
There is a ton of backlash mostly stemming from the Z design
Yea that was certainly a worry as well. Aluminum extrusions are pretty universal for this type of thing and can assemble a lot of ways.

MPCNC is one guys design who could pull the plug on it and leave the community without a way to fix it due to license issues.

I really just want to make some shields, boxes, and a few decorations now and then. Its basically going to be an art tool. I'm no carpenter.
Any cnc made of aluminum extrusions is inherently trash. No rigidity, no damping, no mass, no accuracy, all by design. Cheap and easy to assemble, that's all.
I get that, but a 40watt laser cutter running on aluminum will engrave well enough on wood but its not an industrial fiber laser cutting metal. A cheap 3D printer can be some at home fun, but its not a 100k SLA monster that will spit out a nearly smooth object.

Its about the job it can do. So I'm just trying to figure out if I take the time to build something like this if its going to be able to cut some soft boards into shapes with reasonable accuracy as if its a bigger bulkier Carve-X or if its more like those early days of 3D printing years ago that just made moosh that sorta looked like a thing.
why not use a ali bought cast base for diy project
are they not available in those sizes?

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Need to replace an A/C capacitor.
Its got one of these compressors.
Found out it needs a 35 µf input, but I have no idea what the second µf number is (or what it is for).
There are 35/5 µf, 35/7 µf, 35/10 µf, etc. options available. No idea which is right.
Insight on what that second µf number means would be helpful.

FYI. that damn thing is so old both labels on the broken capacitor and the unit itself is unidentifiable. All i know is the brand is Amana
generally on capacitors like this you can always go slightly higher on the uf microfarads. if you buy a capacitor that is 35/5 and you only need the 35uf, then don't plug anything in to the other connector. it's not needed.

also you aren't looking hard enough to find the correct one.
35 uF is for compressor. Second number is for fan.
Don't go higher, more current will flow and motor will consume more.
ah, the fan.
thanks, I have all he information i need then.
If your AC uses separate fan capacitor, you can use dual cap no problem, just dont connect fan terminal to anything.
I feel bad for man.

live in minnesota lakes country and have about a 12 to 15 ft hill at a 45 degree angle from our back yard down to the lakeside. we've already planted 6 trees up on the top of the hill a few years ago that are doing pretty well and seem to have been alot of help but we still lose alot of dirt during big rains. anyone have any good suggestions for hearty plants that grow well in almost no direct sunlight to help retain soil?

We already plan on putting in a of french drain when we replace the steps down to the lake, just looking for something to stop the bleeding in the interim.

Pics of hill forthcoming
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Some plants that grow wild on the prairie have quite deep roots.
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Perennial stuff like wheat is soon coming
What lake you on boi?

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I was looking at purchasing a portable well drilling machine with the intent of making a couple of waterwells in northern-ish Ontario [around Timmins/Thunder Bay].

Im looking at purchasing the land in a year/year and a half from now, so I have time. Admittedly I've never done anything like this before, but I was wondering where to find instructions or blueprints online for how to construct a basic portable water well drill.

An example of what Im looking to construct would be something like this


or this


Not necessarily about saving money, but I have the time and just wonder if any of you guys have attempted constructing your own simple machinery.
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My last post was worded kind of poorly, so I drew up some admittedly very poor schematics, but this is the idea I'm trying to convey.

Thanks for your input. I, by my own admission, am not very good at much and am trying to change that. I think in my OP post I may have mistakenly implied I wanted to build the whole thing from the ground up, engine and all.

I think what Id like to do is fabricate something like the links posted in the OP, but as Id only be drilling one, maybe two wells with it, I dont want to shell out the cash for the things linked in OP. I also would be in it for the enjoyment though, and if worse comes to worst, Id purchase the equipment linked.

Sorry I may not sound too clear on what Im trying to accomplish - I think what im trying to say is I wanted a mounted, framed, power auger to dig a water well with, and Im trying to find the simplest but most cost effective way to do it. I know the pictured machinery is for post holes, so Im unsure if itd stand up to digging a well even with extensions for when it hits little rocks and I of course wouldnt be able to reach 30 meters down to displace them.

Im posting here because you are all way wiser than I am collectively and would appreciate all of your input now that my ideas a bit clearer, and if its a stupid idea, Im ready to accept that. Thanks folks
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I also must note, as aforementioned I havent ever constructed something like this, so was wondering if I threaded bolts through metal instead of welding would that work to support both the frame and the power auger in operation? Also unsure of the thickness of steel Id need, etc.

Again, if any of you are experienced in this area and believe itd just be cheaper or safer or just makes more sense in general to buy one of the OP listed designs, Id definitely take that into consideration
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Some additional thoughts I had aswell after thinking about the design:

Firstly, the auger would need downward force, so would several 45LB plates do the trick if secured directly on top?

Secondly, and most importantly, I forgot one of the most important elements, which would be a pump or hose of some sort down with the auger to bring the displaced earth back to the surface. Any ideas of how to implement this? I must say I dont have even the faintest idea of where to begin in terms of designing that
These well drilling machines do not use augers to drill. They push the water down the extension pipes into the boring head. I don't think you have any alternative options, you just need a boring head and pump that can do this.

That aside, there is a lot more complexity in making things (decently). With cross braces you could make a so-so decent structure without welding, but going by how you've never made anything similar, you're gonna have serious problems just drilling holes in the right places and cutting the material to size. Start with something much, much smaller. Get a cheap welder and make some shelves or something. Dicking around with bolts when you could just weld is not worth the effort. Also buy a drill press, even if it's some cheapo shit, and learn how to sharpen drill bits.
Also, often these types of projects end up costing more than just buying something ready-made after all the trial and error, not to mention time. Definitely more than renting something to use once or twice. The main reason for doing projects like this should be that you want to make some custom adjustments or have features that the ready-made ones do not have.
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Thankyou kindly for the response. I think you're right, that the limitations of my knowledge at this time would bar me from making this a productive project. Ill buy one of the [relatively] cheapo water well drills linked in the OP.

The only reason Im buying and not renting is Im homesteading up north far from everything, and I saw good advice on this board that said not to plan your property on your current state, but plan everything with the thought of your older self. I thought when my well dries up when Im older, I may not be in the right state to dig the thing by hand like originally planned, and most companies dont service up there without you paying out the ass, so I wanted to own a machine.

Thanks again!

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All processors on the market have CIA back doors. Time to take back control.
If you're making say a distributed solar power micro-grid you don't want glowies to have access.
The processor of the Dreamcast console is now open-source and you can flash a generic board with it.
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whats everybody up to?
Like face detection, or what? That's really interesting. My quarantine project has been to build a kubernetes cluster out of single board computers, and I've just started using it for image processing this week

Thanks boo
face detection, image processing using matlab in conjuction with fpga's and shit is a good way to get started. Machine learning using fpga's is pretty interesting desu
Do you use HDL coder?
I have not yet, I do have the toolbox installed though.

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Hi /diy/, the 2020 Summer Cup is starting soon on July 17th, and it's time to do a board poll in order for the team roster to reflect /diy/ as it is now.
The team poll is being done two parts in order to reflect the suggestions for the team better. This is part 2 of the roster poll.
Poll Link: https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLScjVU9v-0iXJ-sf5Q2YTJqKslTA_vJosAYJFxNYlfeWZS-LPA/viewform?usp=sf_link

>What is this?
The 4CC is a site wide project where boards come together to face off in games of AI vs. AI virtual soccer/football. There are elite cups which are held in Summer and Winter and babby cups which are held in Spring and Autumn. More info can be found at https://implyingrigged.info/wiki/FAQ
>Previously in the last participated cup
We promoted from the 2020 Spring Babby Cup in the group stage on one win and two draws then lost to the cup winners (/d/) in the round of 16, again.

Team Wiki Page: https://implyingrigged.info/wiki//diy/
Cup Page: https://implyingrigged.info/wiki/2020_4chan_Summer_Cup
Archives of other matches can be found here:
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Jokes on you newfags. I'm an oldfag and you don't realize how fucking gay this is.
no you fuck off
im a newfag and have no idea how character design works, but can we get a player for that one anon whose stove vent was cherry red?
well if russian led gets in it kinda represents that meme
also you can put almost every model in the game that the /diy/ team is playing

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Best value belt sanders? I'm looking to get into knifemaking, but also need one that could accurately square pieces of stock for basic machining. So I think I need one with a not so chinesium part holder thingy.

Bonus questions:

Are the ones where the belt goes horizontal any good? They seem to have a much larger usable surface, but I never see them being used in metal/machine shops.

Wtf is the purpose of the spinning disk on the side of sanders like the one in the pic if you already have the belt sander? Quick access to a different grit?
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>tight tolerances
>belt sander

lol wat
Thats nice
What motor are you using? Any plans for that?
What did you use for the pulleys
let's see the one you made
hah! idk I never used one before and thought the pulleys all needed to be lined up pretty accurately to keep the belt from popping off. The tracking adjustment can accommodate a surprising amount of misalignment but I did need to use a straightedge from the motor pulley to line them all up to get the belt to track centered on all 4 pulleys.
Thanks it's an old, old 3450 rpm 1.5 hp Craftsman table saw motor, no variable speed. I have the drawings but it's really not the best design. I'm planning on making some revisions based on how this went together and making a second one for a knifemaker friend I'll post a link for the plans for that if it turns out ok.
Not sure, he bought the pulleys for me since the second one is for him but I think they were around $25 for the set on Aliexpress.
What exactly do you think a belt sander in a machine shop would be doing?
You want even deburrs that arent wonky and shitty looking because your shit table flexed
You clean up an edge off the bandsaw before throwing it in the vise, you want it to be as square as possible?

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Why do so many people lack critical thinking? Its not a zoomer\boomer thing either...iv seen people of all ages and walks of life that lack even the most basic of critical thinking (I have a problem, what is my problem, what causes the problem, how to fix the problem). Over half the threads here could be solved if the poster had critical thinking.

How do we fix this? Is it something that can be taught, or is it hardwired genetically?
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>Why people ask stupid questions that could be Googled?
I see that all the time here. someone asks a question, though I may not know the answer I highlight their question and select "search google for" and often the answer is the first or second returned results.

this site is called /diy/ do it yourself, but it really should be renamed to /difm/ do it for me, because that is the majority of posts here. people who want detailed step by step instructions and directions to do extremely complicated things that can't easily be done with instructions from a backwater image board.

ritalin dumbs you down.
>there isn't much need for critical thought so it never develops.

This is taught, and it has to be nurtured. These skills are developed at a pretty young age - so look to elementary schools and parents. They are further refined in higher education.
From the perspective of a normal person, why bother learning ways to solve solutions when you can just load up a search engine or youtube and get a retard proof guide or pay someone to do something for you?

People have less time nowadays to fix shit, they'd rather spend time at work making money to pay someone else to fix shit or buy a new thing.

Personally I just do diy as a hobby, not out of necessity.
>Why do so many people lack critical thinking?
The irony of this post
Shoving the idea of "critical thinking" into a small box of just "diy" is you not using your critical thinking skills in the first place
Your father who taught you everything he knows, got you into these hobbies, showed you great problem solving skills right?
Yeah, and he cant figure out how to use a fucking cell phone or work the TV so he pesters you doesnt he?

Regardless, Ignorance and inexperience using your hands is NOT a lack of critical thinking skills
Its ignorance and inexperience.
DIY skills are not hard to learn, and once you start learning them there is a snowball effect, the fact that you have that foundation doesnt make you special.

There was a 2 (or more) whole generation span where diy skills were waning, and there wasnt easily accessible information.
There is a reason a whole bunch of 30 year olds who just started doing DIY less than 10 years ago are everywhere, they are on this board.
The 10 year old zoomer growing up right now is going to mop the fucking floor with you in terms of diy skills in their lifetime.

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This was my diseased grandfather's I recently found and cannot figure what it is. Any feedback would be dearly appreciated!
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I’m fuckin dying famm
That’s a pocket car scratcher.
Cool folding scribe. Slick design.
It's home made...He had his own reasons to make it.

So as not to hijack the battery mower tread:
I'm growing a lawn in my micro garden (~100m2, of which about 60m2 will be lawn). Obviously it will need to be mown.
I have used scythes to keep wild grass at bay, but never maintained a lawn using one (not aiming for a golf green tier lawn, just up to 10cm is fine, any flower that isn't a dandelion is welcome)
I know scythes can be used for actual lawns and it would be more "fun" to deal with (I'm a knife-snob and maker) however for the size I'm afraid it'd become annoying as it's pretty small and there will be some obstacles as well.

Alternative is the push mower, hated them as a kid, though we had a beaten up one and I know maintenance of sharp tools is something my parents didn't (and still don't) understand at all.
Definite downsides would be that while the lawn is not fully developed yet, the wheels will dig in. Also I'd throw it ver the fence if it can't deal with some blackberry branches here and there.
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Anyone had any luck with one of these? No gas or battery needed. Just push.
sure, just dont let the grass get too tall, or get a scythe for when it does. Those are the ideal mower for little lawns deep-innawoods.
They are good for up to a quarter acre. Any more and you're going to hate it and yourself
just remember to sharpen those blades anon, also weed wacker with plastic bottle sourced line. bonus solar/wind charged.
It depends on the yard, if you have obstructions like trees/fence/house to work around and or the ground is not all that flat, a push mower will win every time. Scythes work best in large flat open areas and can make short work of it in capable hands.

Don't fear the push mower, they do the job well if it is well maintained.

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my grandpa was an " inventor " and worked in the US in Kentucky he died there and I was not even born at the time. my mom (18 or 19 at the time ) moved to Europe to study and moved a lot of things (the plaque ) ±16 y later a frog came out and she moved to a nice place in Belgium. I grew up loving tech and coding etc. so I went in the attic and found a plaque for a patent of an electrical device so I being the kid that I am and decided to place it in my room. but I never knew what this was or what it meant. so I thereby ask you anons to explain what it is(the invention not the plaque).
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Most patents aren't for completely new concepts. They're just for different ways of doing the same thing.
mallory was a huge component manufacturer back in the day, their capacitors are valuable for old guitars restorations
in a time before carbon film resistors all of them where wound. problem is that machining level might make it to big for the time. a single coil wouldnt be that great and he might have tried to make it more compact with less indcutance

or its a type of fuse or heating element and that isnt explain in the abstract and you need the full explanation for the devices operation. the housing seems big for a resitor
i looked your grandfather up anon
he invented the automatic circumcizer
Why didn’t you post the image rather than an imgur link? This is an IMAGE board after all. Sadly the brains in your family ended with gramps.

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I didn’t see a thread for diy audio and I didn’t think the /ohm/ general would be quite appropriate for my question.

I’ve been ripping (i.e. recording) audio from tapes for years. A common problem I come across is the tape deck will put out a signal that’s way too hot, resulting in a clipping signal. I want to keep my Zoom H4N recorder at unity gain so it’s necessary to have some kind of signal attenuator or buffer between the tape deck’s outputs and the Zoom’s inputs (note: I’m using the RCA outs on the tape deck, in case there’s any confusion).

While I built this hypothetical attenuator years ago, and it certainly does attenuate the signal, it’s come to my attention that the resulting sound is a bit muddy when compared to the source tape. I want to eliminate this muddiness in order to record a more accurate copy.

When I first built the box I thought all I needed to do was place a resistor in line between the inputs and outputs, but I vaguely recall from another project that adding a capacitor would clear up any muddiness.

Is this accurate?
If so, where do I place the capacitor(s) in the circuit, and how do I determine what value to use?

Is there something else I should do that can help clear up this muddiness?

Pic related: it shows my current set up as well as what I want to achieve with it
26 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.
You just need a couple 10k-ohm potentiometers between the deck and the input.
If it's still muddy sounding then try adding a unity gain buffer amplifier after the potentiometers. If that still doesn't sound right then add unity gain buffers before *and* after the potentiometers, so there's no impedance matching problem.
Electrical engineer here. These guys are correct.
That resistance in series will do nothing to reduce the voltage unless a current is flowing.
On paper the voltage divider should be enough to purely decrease the signal, but make sure the values are high enough to not exceed your tape deck current output limits.
The op-amp is the more dilligent solution, although the caveat is that for a reduction in the signal you can only invert it, unless you daisy-chain another one with a gain of 1 (i.e. the resistors between input and output are equal). The benefit of opamp over resistors is much better isolation of the input from the output, hence safer for the tape deck.
If you have no issues with your signals being inverted 180deg, then go ahead with the single inverting op-amp. If you're worried about phase issues when playing it alongside the original, then chain a unity gain inverting amp after as well.
When picking your amp, look out for its bandwidth (above 50khz is a good start) and obviously supply voltage limits, although most common purpose ones should be perfectly fine for what you do.
If you're ripping cassette tapes, your Zoom recorder is fine. But anon is right, it is bottom tier quality; it uses the cheapest A->D converters possible. Also, the pre amps are poop, but you're not really using those

Again, at the end of the day, no one is going to notice, especially if you're happy with the end result. But over time your ear will (might) get better and you'll hear the inferior circuitry vs something done to a professional A-D interface going to a DAW or a Sound Devices recorder etc
I believe your problem may be a matter of gain being too high.
This. An inline resistor and/or capacitor is essentially a china-tier crossover.
>As long as it has type I/II/IV, Dolby NR, RCA in/outs, record level controls, hi-speed dubbing, a phone jack and some kind of visual representation of levels, it’s good enough
Analog is not lossy like digital. Tapes are actually one of the best media for music because they are analog and capture better signal than phono. The noise resistance eliminated most problems. Tapes are making a huge comeback. Cassettes do have limitations, but 8 track is excellent. My 2 cents.
>gain too high
more than likely. it's funny that i can convert all my old tapes to digital using a fostex x-15 and a scarlett 2i4 without any problems, but op can't do it with better equipment. sad!

Hi /diy/,

I need some electrical advice. I just moved into a new condo recently and would like to change how the light switches work in my room. My room has two light switches, one which controls one ceiling light fixture and half of some power outlets. The other one controls another ceiling light fixture. I've installed some low voltage LED light fixtures in place of the old halogen ones and they are way too bright so I purchased a couple of Lutron ELV dimmers which I plan to install to tone those down.

The main problem I have is with the switched outlets, I find them super annoying and I would like them to be always on all the time as my lighting comes only from the ceiling fixtures and I want to be able to use all of my outlets to power electronics.

So here are the questions. What do I need to do to keep my switches controlling the ceiling lights but not control any outlets at all? Will there be any gotchas to look out for when installing the ELV dimmers? I don't mind having to buy new outlets if required.
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Can't really help you unless you show a pic that describes how the wiring is arranged. This could be either an easy or hard job depending on how that first switch is wired.
Maybe. He said half the outlets, not half of each outlet. They might not be half-hots at all.
OP. You can probably do the necessary wiring right behind the switch...
At my old house (with 70s era switched outlets) when I was young and poor, I bypassed the switch in the box. I'm guessing now from the replies here that was a no-no.
bypass the switch, install a wireless smart bulb in the ceiling.
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they broke the tab and ones fed by a 3wire hot ideally red. buy a new outlet and safe the red off with a wirenut and just attach the black or whatever hot was
pic unrelated

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Came across an older (92) forklift that needs some love for a good price. Mainly want it for using to move things around my garage and lifting engines. What are some other things that a forklift might be useful for? Just seeing what ideas are out there
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You're not supposed to stand under the forks anon.
Excuse me sir are you certified?
skid steer with treads is way more useful than forklift imo
put a heavy weight on it and use it to compact the trash in you trash can / dumpster if you pay by the pickup
Sit down lifts are for fatties. Get a proper stand up forklift. Crown RC series for life.

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Hvac company wants $600 dollars to repair a super tiny hole. It's on the weld for the copper pipe. The leak test barely picked it up. Freon only leaks out over the course of a couple months. Currently though it's hot as balls out. I live in Florida. Any other options besides paying the $600? I'm a very capable person. If I don't know how to do something I'll quickly learn. Already looked at YouTube shit.
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The leak needs to be repaired even if it is slow. It is not filled with freon. It is not a $600 job.
You should not take a torch to this and attempt it yourself because:
>you don't have the equipment to recover the refrigerant
>you won't properly recharge it
>you will probably turn it into a flamethrower and lose your hair
There's oil in that too you know
Just call someone else
Dude you cannot do this to a pressurized system.
Also I can't tell where your hole is from this pic but globbing solder over it isn't going to really fix it either. You'll need to just resweat it, do a coupling or something, cut the section out that has the hole.
And at some point you're going to need to get it pumped down anyways since it is likely contaminated and that's probably why there's a hole in the first place.
This is not rocket science, since R22 is not R290.
That's not even a 22, it's a 410. Same procedure would apply even if it was though as you can't braze either remotely pressurized.

Unless it was a hisser that would have been a dye job for me. That glob shit is usually guilty but you never know, too many sales techs don't even know what a restriction is which would also be a major concern.
I've done this and fortunately my weed retailer is also a very good HVAC tech so he taught me how to work home systems. I already do my own auto HVAC.

To make a long story short, the equipment easily pays for itself but you'll have more than 600 (unless you buy like I do) into the nitrogen cylinder and regulator, acetylene torch (useful for many, many things), gauges and the rest. If you're a DIY beast dedicated to doing it for life and willing to practice soldering etc (never practice on your workpiece) and put in serious work, go for it.

If you want air conditioning fixed quick, pay a tech.

If you chat up the tech and watch, you can learn something and decide if ya want to gear up for your next job.

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