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If you could make anything out of wood and wanted to make good money, what would you make to sell?
186 replies and 50 images omitted. Click here to view.
So why don't you?
An extra one between (you)s like I did is prudent. An extra one after one line of greentext is weird. Breaking up real paragraphs like you just did is also perfectly ok.
The extra one in >>2163672 is just strange. If you do that, you'll get harassed for being a redditor because redditors think you have to hit enter twice to get off a line of greentext.
Doors and shelves and cabinets
>raised garden beds.
I would think that it would be preferable to use cinder blocks, although the raised garden beds at my parent's backyard are made of wood and hold up just fine.
Because right now I don't have a shop and don't live in the mountains. If I ever un-fuck my life to the point that making gimmicky, low-effort furniture becomes a viable potential way of making income I absolutely will.

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skinworkers assemble
pic related. made a passport wallet for a buddy of mine a while ago

25 year old engineer boomer here. Anyone else feel like they cant stick to one DIY area? I have bought so much woodworking and electronics diy tools but i always use them maybe once only because i cant come up with any interesting projects. What to do?
12 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
You could be like this guy >>2168431
and have no passion for anything.
Give up on woodworking first.

Look at your youtube shitlords.
Box #387 to hold all your wood working shit in.

Get a welder and a grinder and make more accurate lighter weight shit than you could ever hope with wood.

Keep some basic shit for home repairs like a circular saw, speed square and level.

Electronics is nice because you can get a lot of tools without it taking over all your shit
Have you learned the basic skills that people in those trades know? Building a shed and wiring it isn't particularly complicated, but it is practical, fundamental knowledge that you may have overlooked if you're trying to do "engineer-level" stuff - I was once of the mindset that the basic stuff was beneath me, but it was a dumb and limiting way for me to think.
The engineers I work with cant even keep the fuck9ng worksite straight
Where do I install this power supply for site 8?
At site 4. *attaches picture of site 8, install here circled on it*
*draws up layout for a site that's a complete fiction and nothing like we have told him for anything*
What in the fuckbare we paying younshitlords for. You.cant evennorder the right parts with the right connectors.

Your fucking instructions said to cut off all the connectors from the manufacturer and put the right ones on.

I'm the same way but I enjoy macguyvering my way through shit, so while I have some tools, I dont spend a whole lot on specialized stuff.
And as long as you have the storage space for it (and arent homeless or about to be evicted) I dont see the big deal with a bunch of tools you dont use all that often.
I'm mainly home and car diy though, I'll bet electronics and woodworking hobbies can get pretty expensive

Earthbags are on a list of approved alternative building materials in my area but is it trustworthy at all?
Seems like if it worked well more houses would be made out of it
Whats the catch ?
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it's not much cheaper than an actual house unless you're building in the middle of nowhere
they're known because they're environmentally friendly and easy-ish to diy
You can plaster the inside and the outside so it seems more like a normal house
Anon, your name is now URIST.

Strike the earth.
wtf now Shae is engaged?!
The catch is you will be living like a soldier in a fox hole

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I'm fixing to do a complete rip out and replace with my bathroom. Tub, tile and vanity (I'll keep the toilet). I've done tile before but nothing else with the bathroom.
What am I in for and any helpful tips?
12 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Here's a tip I learned from the people who built my house: You can save money by grouting the wall tiles onto regular drywall instead of using concrete board.

thats hack bullshit, your studs are going to warp from moisture
>regular drywall
>instead of cement board
>at the very least, not using greenboard

Enjoy your mold
This is a recipient for disaster within a few years.
Pls say sike

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I'm going to do 20. I'm going to upgrade my service to 400 Amp. But there are two items I can't seem to find information for my figures for my uncle.

I need to know what kind of inlet wire to use and what type of receptacle do I need?

All I can find are 15 amps with the same plug and it's driving me insane. I want to run 2 miners off each 40 amp breaker.

tldr Where do I buy a 20 amp receptacle with the same plug as an Antminer S19j?

I also need to know the name of the type of wire I'm supposed to use with a 400 amp service inlet.

Or can I just change the plug to a different type on the miner if I want to put it on 20 amp.

15 amps seems like way too little for a miner. I don't want to burn down my house.
12 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
seems like that can't be right
Bruh. The 400 amp service is done by an electrician and the electric company.

You get some breakers and put your miners on the other end of the breakers with appropriately sized wires
Consider your home’s outlet for the clothes dryer, or kitchen oven. Then connect a collection of lower output receptacles.

OP is looking for a PDU, or the in-the-wall equivalent of it.
T.data center manager
You mean 10.8k/year? kek
Uh, you gonna buy 20 miners? Like 70k worth of machines + .12kw electricity to get 60k a year?

I mean, there are better investments dude.

anyone here done (diy or paid) a mini split in their garage? for those that have, was it worth it? was it difficult (if you diy'd)? how much did it cost? I want to do one because i Iive in the desert so it gets over 100° in there in the summer, and I'm sick of breaking into a sweat after 20 seconds and drenching my shirt after a few minutes. plus I can turn around and use it to heat the garage in the winter. it only goes to like 50-60, on rare occasion 40s, but still why not keep it comfortable if the implement is already there.
the garage is attached, windowless and fully insulated including door and roof, all I need to do is seal around the garage door seam since it doesn't press perfectly up against the frame. the only always on heat sources are a tankless water heater (of course not actually always on but still gets used frequently), refrigerator and about 100w of shop lights. the car only gets driven on weekends so dumping the ac out the garage door and fighting engine heat would only be on weekends, during the week I have a company car which I park outside.
21 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>anyone here done (diy or paid) a mini split in their garage?
DIY for the apartment above my garage. I've actually done the install 3 times as the first installation was before an addition was added, after (to move it), and a third to replace it with a nicer unit that had a wider operating temperature. And because prior tenants had caused some damage to the original unit.
>for those that have, was it worth it?
Yes. Way more effective than alternatives and meant not having a window unit eating up one of only two windows.
>was it difficult (if you diy'd)?
The only difficulties had to do with the height of the installation. Third install I got the right equipment to put the inside unit in, but I really should have planned the outside unit install better as I nearly killed myself hauling it up a ladder.
>how much did it cost?
Both units/kits were around $1500. Moving the original unit did require disconnect and then a later leak test and recharge by a tech for $250.
acquire a used package ac unit and nigger rig it into your garage
It's dead simple. All you need is a vacuum pump and manifold gauges. Look on Youtube.
That shit looks handy. Is the air handler insulated at all in these?
Yeah, there's a sheet of some sort of fiberglass mat insulation on all the sides around the air handler. It makes it itchy when you have to replace the air handler blower, and sometimes they mount the cap in there with it.
Those package units are easy to install. Just throw down a plastic pad where you want the unit, connect ducts, power, thermostat wire, and gas line for a "gas pack", then make a shroud to cover the ducts into the house.
One downside is that they are often larger and heavier than split system outdoor units. The last one I installed was about 500 pounds, and it was heat pump only with no gas furnace.

I also find them easier to work on because you only have to go in the house to check thermostat and air filter. Everything else is right there and easy to reach

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Can I fix this window myself?
I just bought the house and thought most of the windows needed to be resealed at least but after a few days of ventilating and dehumidifying they all fixed themselves except this one
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I know a doors and windows guy and he said that most of the manufacturers of the gas filled windows specifically exclude the gas charge leaking out from warranty claims, with the idea being that it's normal for them to leak over a few weeks or months.
It's a poor practice that they rate the efficiency of the units with the gas charge as they are manufactured, but then a short while later in the real world, they don't meet those ratings anymore.

I wonder if the gas provides any advantage at all on the long term, or if it's just to trick the ratings
I am a window and door guy. Gas can escape slowly over a period of 20 years on a well built window with an intercept, supercept, or super spacer, but that does not cause fogging or condensation. Fogging and condensation is an immediate seal failure, and is typically covered by warranty from almost every company.
My son broke a pane in a like 2x3 doube glazed window. I was just going to remove the old one and order a piece of glass cut to replace it from dimensions I could extract from that.

Worried about getting shit like fog when I'm done though. Do people not repair windows anymore?
They're fairly old windows I think late 80s early 90s so I'm not too concerned about gas
It just doesn't look great
They seal the house up crazy though I just got the hree in spring so I've been keeping them open I'm interested what it will be like come winter

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Thread wicked away:>>2156528

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

>Don't ask, roll:

>Archive of Popular Electronics magazines (1954-2003):

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
316 replies and 75 images omitted. Click here to view.

this is not that book but I still find it useful
might have to do with being longer than it is wide, there's a reason ppl say to keep inductors short
I'd assume that it's an artefact of a precursor circuit using a larger capacitor. In general it's never an issue to replace an electrolytic capacitor with a ceramic, so long as the voltage value is sufficient and the capacitance is equal. Likely, those resistors were 10k and 100k, and the capacitor was 1µ. Or maybe even 1k/10k/10µ. But the larger the values are, the smaller the quiescent current. You could try tuning the values to see if you get a more preferable dead-time and/or oscillation immunity.

Also I'd really want to add a couple of (schottky) diodes from after those high-pass filters to Vcc, to prevent overshoot. At least if the IC doesn't already have protection diodes.

I like this one specifically for BLDCs:
There's probably similar ones for brushed dc and universal motors.

I think inductance is proportional to the square of the number of turns, if that helps.
Surely relative permeability shouldn't change as a function of number of turns at all, right? I suspect if you see any such variation you're running into the stray inductance of other parts of the circuit. If you change the capacitance, do you get the same estimated inductance and permeability?
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>I think inductance is proportional to the square of the number of turns, if that helps.
Yeah it should be proportional to n2 in a toroidal core. so that green line should be something*x2.
>Surely relative permeability shouldn't change as a function of number of turns at all, right?
It shouldn't. I suspected that also, it seems to settle in a value around 180 (which sound like the shitty ferrite I am expecting it to be). Same thing for inductance, the higher value and the greater number of samples, the closer I get to the expected quadratic behavior. I decided to get off my lazy ass and do some more turns.
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I will stop spamming these graphs until I can test more cores and compare results. Have a good day /ohm/ites

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How much suspended weight can it support? Think it'll hold 190lb/86kg for at least 5-10 minute with some intermittent jerks?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
What so bad?
What is it? Paracord? Some random ass string you found in your parent's garage? How tf are we supposed to know what it can or can't support? What do you need to hold up for 5-10 minutes anyway?
I think it's clothesline. I need to hold up something that will wriggle
based psychopath
Let’s just say yes, and you’ll post the video, ok?

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Halp. I can't find a guide for how to select a vent register for best airflow vs where the duct is in the room. Diagrams, step by step, any help plz.

like, some registers have 3-way split, some have all the fins in one direction, some are adjustable fins.

this is a livingroom in the next pic. the little squares are the duct outlet, the return is the wide one on the near wall, and the two doors lead to kitchen/dining.
31 replies and 6 images omitted. Click here to view.

i dont have to worry about any weird stall for that one so tight in the corner or anything?

or.. that return is the only one in the 3 rooms, should I try to set up a circulation pattern from that room thru the kit, dining, and back?
Most of a buildings cooling/heating losses occur through the skin of a building. Aim the air along exterior walls to cover those skin losses.

Ideally you would want a return in every space. But honestly with the low volume of residential systems, you will be fine with a central return along an interior wall, so long as you supply enough air along the skin to cover those losses.
>50 foot fan
Jesus christ anon I don't think you have to worry so much about the direction of your vents
Again designers >>>/fa/
You can design a skirt for the vent to your heart's content
What's the difference between 1 vs 2 vs 3 way registers? And when should you use one or the other?

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Looking to get into the hobby of machining, specifically to make knives. I was wondering if a mini mill similar to pic related could work in a home workshop. Not sure if this is possible, or if I need something with either cnc or a dro/stepper set up. Any help would be great.
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I’ll check those out. I’ve only done the center drill for pilots in our mills at work (got to use them a couple times, rarely get to go in the shop)
End mill in a drill press may not work too well, but end mill in a mini lathe works pretty great if you can manage workholding with the toolpost or put a vertical slide on it.
Checked and find out if the drill youre looking at is fitted on a taper, if it is you might be able to get a collet chuck for it but honestly, just use more basic tools as >>2169134 describes. Works fine and will teach you about accuracy and using the drill before you get more advanced
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you don't have to buy a bridgeport necessarily, Harbor Freight and import companies like it also sell a 1/2 size knee mill which is worlds better than a mini mill. pic related
there's also Clausing knee mills and rockwell delta mills. 600-1100 lbs depending on which of these you get, and much smaller than bport.

i have one of these mini mills and it is nearly impossible to tram. the y-axis has to be trammed by taking the head off & apart, and adding shims between two mating surfaces in the head.
the z-axis gib and lock also affect the tram in the y-axis because it's chinese and the gib probably isn't level, so expect locking any axis to result in the head going out of tram
I have the minimill OP posted, but the upgraded littlemachineshop version. I was going to buy a drill press but splurged for the mill instead. It's actually great. Far better than a drill press. It's no Bridgeport or Haas, but for the money/space it's fantastic.

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Vamplier/Engineer is fucking FINISHED
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Mogging you on powder but don't have many more primers, older pic b4 I got a few k more of em
They def do better on the marketing than US companies.
yeah as i said, i need to get more of both

for fucks sakes that thing is made from plastic, and those rods are so skinny that i'm sure they would take a bend if you clamped that to a work piece and just left a drill hanging from the shaft.
imagine not free eying your holes

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Alright 4chan, need your expertise. I had this massive roll of rasin paper to cover my workbench. Length wise, the roll is too long, so decided to cut it in half. I wanted to use my reciprocating saw, so I clamped one side of the roll in my vice and used a clamp for the other side. Long story short, the vibration from the saw kept causing the clamp to come undone immediately, stopping me from making the cut. I also tried using a hacksaw, since that's the only saw I have, but it was going to take me forever. What should I be doing differently?
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Can’t you just cut it with a carpet knife?
Nobody likes you.
here's a kleenex
Saber saw....
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I wonder if anyone else gets the same nostalgic feeling every time they hear a redneck handyman say sawzaw

Any contraption ideas for dealing with smoking neighbours?
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Farting on someone constitutes sexual harassment.
I appreciate that you smoke and know that it bothers people.

I stopped living downtown because of vegans and chainsmokers
This poster was emotionally stunted from smoking cigarettes

>Stinks like shit all the time
>Doesn't know because he smokes constantly
LMAOing @ ur life faggot
Thanks anon. They’re very strong. Not like weed where it dissipates over time. I even make sure to wash and dry my clothes at unpopular intervals so others don’t have to smell. It’s great for anxiety, and I used to do crack and heroin so I embrace the white trash cig life.

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