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File: Gangway-tower-with-crane.jpg (507 KB, 2313x1277)
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I am trying to build a 20 foot ramp that goes from ground level up to a platform 7 feet above.

I need it to be light and have no support except on either end, but strong enough to hold 200 pounds in the center without sagging.

Which material should I use to make the sides rigid? I was thinking of using some kind of steel tubing with screw holes, or long 2x4s with steel fastened to make them not bend.

Basically, what I need is a "gangway", but at a lower cost which doesn't need to handle as much weight.

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Thanks dudes. I'm going to have to think about this.

I need to make some walls on each side so my dog can use it without being afraid. I thought about screwing stuff into a ladder, but I don't have a lot of experience drilling into metal.

Wouldn't something like this work to stablize a 2x4 though?
You need a ramp that can get your dog 7 feet in the air? Now you need to explain. Do you work for the circus?
Aluminum boat dock ramp.
This will be heavy
Ladder with plywood and metal 'handrails', that have nylon ripstop fabric for sides is the lightest budget rig I can think of
just flip >>1962418 upside down and you will have walls for your dog, it will look like a U shaped channel

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What're you brewing /diy/? my cider just stopped fermenting I added some spices and I plan to backsweeten with some apple juice concentrate and some honey in a week or two
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i just dumped a hydrometer in some and it went to the 990 line, which i just read is finishing time for a dry wine. so i guess i'll bottle.
How long does fermentation usually take?
Depends on a number of things (your wash/must/wort/whatever; yeast strain, nutrients, temperature, etc). A good rule of thumb is that primary fermentation will take 2-3 weeks, with secondary usually going for much longer (though not necessarily; i.e. if you're making beer or planning to distill).
I traveled across country a year ago to move to the other coast with only what i could take in my truck. The pot still had to come with me. I need my shine.

So I been in dire need of a desk since my IKEA one is now trashed. I’m currently in works of a custom desk made from quartz. The question concerning me is the support needed since the quartz countertop will be over 200lbs. The support bars is what I’m having trouble as the legs will be custom made, I’m not sure what thickness of steel bar needed to support. The over the counter 1/8 stuff from Home Depot seems too thin and wouldn’t support the heavy countertop but the stuff from metal shops are too expensive and overpriced for what I want.

What should I do then?
Here another angle of what the desk looks like
2" square tube with either a 3/32" wall or 1/8" wall would probably be my choice. Framed like pic1 but weld in an x reaching the 4 corners. I assume you're going to be welding this. You'll need to gusset the legs very solidly. On top of that adding a set of horizontal members going from one leg to the next, at least 6" down will help stabilize it better.

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According to /g/, it looks like the motherboard in my TV is fucked. It's not turning on anymore and spit out lots of artifacts before dying, pic related. I managed to find used functional motherboards for around 60$. I've assembled PCs and partially dis- and reassembled Laptops in the past. Is changing a smart TV motherboard any harder/easier?
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Just make sure to look youtube tutorials so you don't break some retarded flex cable or something when dissasembling.
These jews make these things purposefully easy to break when opening them up.
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but really, what does it do? is it something to check ground with or does it do something else
Thanks for the input. I think I'll try it out then.
Don’t bother if the screen is damaged in any way, the screen is 90% of the value, the power and main boards the other 5%
your smart tv is fine. you have been screwed by the spirit of economic doom aka glowies messing up tech to increase consumption to maintain the status quo

laugh but ever version of windows since 95 and all ipods suffered from this as well as smart phones as of 6 years ago. late patches for systems that will not be supported shitting the bed and forcing you to buy new and things that just fuck performance like those security patches for smart phones because china dude china . it was about america and perpetrated by the us government to keep gdp growth higher by forcing new purchases of technology

smart tvs get fucked in short time but my crapy 1080p tv i use for a computer monitor because its got a vga connection thats on 15 hours a day is fine after years and years of usage right

your mistake was thinking more connected was better and not just more vulnerable to glowie attack

I just got a miners rights license, and now I need some cheap tools. A pick? Or a hammer and chisel (or a big screw driver instead of a chisel)? What kind of hammer?

Where to look for cheap screens/filters?
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what do you want to know?

your tools should be the following
>shovel / pickaxe
>10 gallon buckets
>spoons (serious kitchen spoons)
>wide steel gold pan (lasts longer than plastic)
>a screw driver (bend the end to a 45* angle)
>sniffer bottle for collecting your gold dust in the pan

Before you go digging, learn where and how the gold in your district was deposited, and which spots the old timers mined. Study this info and work from there to find gold, the old boys did 99% of the brutal labor for you.

If you need anymore info ask away, its winter here in Leafland and I have precious little to do.
Heres a simple cut away design for riffles in a stream sluice. Usable for commercial or hobby mining.
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more sluices
Not OP but thanks for the info and pics!
always happy to give my info out, prospecting and its techniques are a dieing art making a major come back in the run up to these latest gold rushes over the last few years.

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New thread, because the old one is practically at page 14.

Thread hymn.


Last thread: >>1934818

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
>Edge precision

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Were you the one making those chunky cable rollers?
How much did you make from that job?
how do you get that old and be that dumb? not wearing anything that can catch was day 1 of trade school for me.
I imagine it probably just slipped his mind. Most accidents in general are caused when people are too comfortable.
Not nearly enough, but I gained a new customer, and I used some old reground inserts that were included with the machine so tooling cost was negligible.

I spent most of the time fucking with that shitty V insert boring bar because the insert kept coming loose. I'm definitely going to be using the parts catcher to catch parts and the subspindle to pull the bar going forward. No one wants to be a glorified robot.
perfect low paying job to pay the heat bill though, tolerances and finish are basically an afterthought because they are going to be molded into rubber afterward anyway

+ / - 0.010" on everything, radius included

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Anyone got advice on what lathe manufacturer to buy from second hand obviously.
Anything to look for in terms of wear and other issues. UK and Ireland
Budget is fucked like 1200 euro - 2400 euro.
Restoration may be needed I'm ok with that.
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Buy one from harbor freight for like 100 bucks
That's why they are much cheaper.

You can still use it as a normal lathe just less convenient
What would you anons suggest for a basic, no-frills tabletop size large to buy as a present? Looking for ease of use and reliability, and nothing too exorbitantly expensive.
Are you doing heavy work?

Old myford ml7 lathes are well within your budget and great for hobby work

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Yes only if you're white and right. Im looking at buying some land off a lake and building a cabin, already own a house
Also this
Fuck off fag
Sadly this
Ya go stay in your brown infested inner cities anon, I'm gonna stay in my comfy rural town with great white neighbors.
Put on some spray if you're a bitch
Sometimes. Northern MN gets super cold. Two years ago we got -65. It was cool going out and feeling that

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No, as someone who lives here, go basically anywhere else. It's not great
Don't remind me
Why does the united nations pump every ethnically Scandinavian population with somalis ;-;
Fucking hell, makes me more racist every day
any place in america can be a great place for a summer home. what you have to ask yourself is who do you hope to find squatting when you show up?

be honest with yourself and think of your ideal rape dungeon gimp. was it a 32 year old female who is single who doesnt have the guts to kill herself and is covered in self inflicted cut scars but isnt pretty and is a little over weight who was evicted from her apartment months ago and has been surviving on dumpster food?

is it a 40 year old homeless black man who you can barely understand 3 / 5 words when he speaks and always smells of baked beans and malt liquor?

is it a meth addict who will consensually suck your dick if you have a bag with pink / blue / white powder in it and promise to give them some but might stab you if you do not have a plastic baggy with a mysterious powder in it?

if you answered meth addict then minnesota is your best place for a summer home

I need ideas on how to build out my van. I don’t know where to put this stupid fridge without it looking like shit. The more I look at the van the more I prefer it to just be completely empty
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oculus rift vr setup and full auto masturbator

brother i don't mean to burst your build but you gotta be able to stand up in it, maybe down the line look into getting an extended roof attachment, probably be a couple grand but worth it and maybe made out of fiybahglass
Not OP, but how hard is it to DIY a pop up roof extension on an average 90’s/early 2000’s van? I don’t want to drive around
in a 9-10’ tall van
Have it slide out from under a countertop. The one you will probably need for you sick and cooktop.

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Where can I get a crap ton of styrofoam for cheap? I'm suprised on how relatively expensive it is on amazon/ebay/etc, considering it comes with almost every package.
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The point went over your head
Look for construction near you. I went by 10 giant sacks of waste Styrofoam from insulating the building, I could've asked for it and gotten it for free
buy it from styrofoam suppliers you nutsack
Holy shit you’re fuckin’ dumb.
go to your local best buy and get it out of the dumpster. the home theater/appliance techs throw away fucktons of styrofoam every day

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Hello /diy/ i need some advice for vertical sand casting metal.Over the past year ive been casting swords and knives etc through this method.However recently ive been met by a string of failures.

Every single one of my casts have failed.Dispite making new wooden mold frames ive once again faced failure.Usually the metal leaks from the side.There doesnt seem to be a gap and they are tightly screwed down.

Are the salvageable? what can i do to fill the holes?(ive tried pushing casting sand between any gaps before with limited success) Are there any alternative large metal substitutes i could use as a mold instead?
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I have tried Horizontal.And i do horizontal casts on my smaller metal molds.The problem is a long sword often doesnt get filled horizontally.I relie on gravity in vertical casting to reach the blade tip as well as fill to the edge as it has real trouble when the blade gets thin.Ive had to beef up my blanks several times now due to them being so thin.
It seems there is too much pressure in the liquid metal and the sand can't contain it, also the fact that they are so thin might contribute to the metal getting into the slit between the halves and pushing the sand away
I think you should try a different sand or try holding the mold at an angle and see what works
Its too expensive to change sands.Ive tried resin bonded silica clay sand and found it not great.I think anon from earlier was right i should try compressing it more before casting i sometimes rush it when i could compress it and smooth it over more.
Would you consider switching over to lost-wax / ceramic shell casting process?
What is the total length of your casting from the top of the sprue to the bottom of the part? I think you have crazy high pressures in your mold. To calculate the pressure, multiply the height of the part by the density of your metal (make sure the density unit is the same as your height measurement, ie mass/length^3). You could try making a wider flash so you have more space between the part and the edge of the mold, as someone else alluded to.

Just bought a house and the room where I would like to put the computers isn't grounded and I'd rather not have to destroy the wall to run grounding wire. Is there any kind of work around for this?
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You're an idiot.
install a GFCI outlet on the first outlet in every circuit of the house. all the other ones can then be replaced with standard 3 prongs and still be up to code, so long as they are labeled as ungrounded
much ado about nothing
It's not really about being up to code, it's about what would protect my electonics
Unless there's something fucked with your electronics from the factory you're worrying about nothing. I live in a house built in 1958 with no safety ground (that's what it really is, it's to protect you), and I've had a succession of computers plugged in and working for over 20 years with no issues at all. I was literally jerking it online when Y2K flipped to 0:00. It's a lot of bullshit over a lot of nothing.

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I am interested in techniques natives used to live in the Northern Great Plains. Seems like cob houses are not that great for cold climates. At some point does the thermal mass of a large dirt house overcome the problem of heating and cooling dude the outside climate?
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not as easily, have you ever been around a bonfire before? if your stick structure starts burning you'll atleast have a chance to put it out before its all gone
The non flammable carpet in your house won't burn with the smoke from from a non flammable product is probably much worse for you than straw.
they'll only self ignite in the curing period after cutting & baling and even then they have to be bunched up together with poor ventilation. you literally just have to let them set outside for a few days before you stack them in the barn and they wont do shit.
>At some point does the thermal mass of a large dirt house overcome the problem of heating and cooling dude the outside climate?
Yes, thermal mass is why "frost depth" exists. If your house is buried underground, or surrounded by tons of earth, you'll get the benefits of thermal mass during both winter and summer.
Straw bale is a great Insulator, I saw a video somewhere, where a Woman put a bunch outside her tiny house, and it blocked the very cold wind chill from hitting the home, thus it has to keep it from getting colder. Oh, have you ever heard of, or went down the rabbit hole of "Rocket Mass Heaters or Rocket stoves"? Youtube them, as the mass heater, releases heat into your home days AFTER the fire is out, truly awesome!! Trust me, go look them up!!! Youre Welcome.

Anyone else like the look of an "unfinished" project? I like the look of exposed insulation panels, mechanical fixtures, and so on. Anyone know what to call this style? and does anyone have more of it?
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I'm interested in this style for a cabin out somewhere remote.
I would pay good money to hear my guests' juicy shits echo across the house.
I find brutalist aesthetic now.
Smooth it down and put a coat of matte polyurethene over it and you have an awesome look
I can smell these images and it’s a great smell.

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I have never built one before and would like to stay under 50$ so I can buy/make gifts for everyone in my family. I heard about using Styrofoam and painting it with concrete, but im unsure if that would last very long. If that is a good trick to use, are those hot styrofoam cutters 100% needed?
How big of a fountain?
A small countertop/desk fountain. I think a foot long for its biggest dimension. I was thinking of maybe making it look kinda like a river.
I would start looking up those heron fountains. That would be the cheapest if you can get the geometry right

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