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Does anyone have a decent way/recipe to make a putty as close to store bought. The YouTube and diy sites aren't nearly as close or just a slime mixture. Any help or at least a link to something would be awesome.
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I'm getting ready to paint a house I'm buying. Guy that owned it before smoked.

So I was gonna primer with killz and then paint. This is probably a really retarded question but is it OK to primer and then use a paint primer combo on top of it? Was gonna use valspar and had read the ultra allows for easier cleaning then the paint with no primer mixed in
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Rent an ozone generator, they use it at crime scenes to get the smell out.
Eggshell is where it’s at for most areas, gloss in bathrooms.
Do it, you can buy behr "premium" for $30 a gallon, get it in eggshell not flat or gloss etc. Tape off your baseboards and paint with a brush your outline of each wall, after that just roll it on.

The biggest thing I never see people suggest is swapping out your roller every 30-60 minutes, clean it thoroughly and keep going. After paint is caked on your roller that's where you get shitty work. Watch some youtube videos, and you'll be good
Careful if you clean with TSP: it will strip the tar and nicotine, and one drop of that stuff gets on your skin and you will OD on it.
it was pretty bad, you could see what was on the walls and what had been on the carpet. there were places where the carpet was white and the rest war brownish yellow.

the painter said he had to do 3 coats in some places.

What are your side jobs?
I'm thinking about putting my soldering skills to work and hand assemble some kind of gadget that I can sell. I'm thinking guitar pedals or something like that. Any ideas?
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the smell of burning flesh helps distract from the smell of burning resistors when I power it on
Bronchitis: aint no body got time for that
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choking up on the iron actually gives you more control and allows you to get the heat exactly where you want it faster so you don't waste heat on surrounding metal.
Appliance an tool repair is a wash to me. I expect to replace entire sections of a product and sourcing those costs a good share of new products in several situations. I've had this with an sawzall, an Ampeg, tv power supplies. I don't have time to try to repair a window AC when it's just 100 for new. I have repaired some tvs, microwaves, mini fridges, a washer, and probably some other crap but I would never expect to turn decent profit. I'd be better off scrapping.
It makes sense. Repairing mundane items caps at the value of that item regardless of your time, effort, and costs. When people commission work from you in any field you can better get paid your worth.

Boutique pedal market is saturated. You could probably earn if all you do is make the artwork and get it on the enclosures. To create original circuit ideas or sounds is a very steep learning curve at this point in the game.

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Previous thread:>>2653338

Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)

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I have cameras and all of that but I want to make a system to scare the living shit out of the fuckers that keep stealing shit from my backyard.

What would you use to make something that is completely silent but once it detects motion, keeps aiming very bright LEDs at the persons face and maybe play some funny audio?

It must not harm the person in any way.
You'd use MS Word to write a cringy story about it.
Get an off-the-shelf pan+tilt IP camera with 2-way audio. The rest is all software.
Making it is easy, not having it set off randomly is the hard part. I would suggest you rig a specific item (or multiple) with a string pulling a switch or similar and just aim the lights/speakers at where the person touching it would be standing.
Or, if you're a software wizard, you could do what the above anon said. Not what I would recommend however.
The response time for a hot water bath is more like 5-10 seconds minimum, more if it is an immersion heater. I wouldn’t worry about triacs and zero crossing, at least for the prototype, a simple relay is more than adequate.

Last thread >>2634365
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>Low prices
Uh huh
just an indicator that things will get much, much worse (unless you bought in during 2023)
>just an indicator that things will get much, much worse (unless you bought in during 2023)

Sad thing is you're probably right about that...
I definitely would want the bikes to have to make that turn every time they go in and out.
Why not put them in straight, side by side where the junk is now. In winter when the car is in move them to where the mowers are because you don’t need mowers in winter. Then you’d only use the right side door for vehicles and can use more of the left side for workbench and stuff
How much space is there between the pass through garage door and the stairs? How wide are the garage doors?

What's behind the pass through door next to the stairs? Maybe leave the bikes up against that door.

Honestly it looks like the basement might be the better place for storing your tools and things until you get a shed.

How is the ceiling constructed? Possible to have a pull down staircase to attic storage?

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If a home has had termite treatment and barrier, is there still any risk or is it fine to buy and live in? Don't wanna die from a falling plank randomly
home ownership isnt for you
Thanks for the bump stupid nazi
The real question is how much damage have they already done. It could be minimal or it could be devastating. It all depends on how long there was an active infestation.

If you’re planning on buying, you could ask the seller where the infestation was and then check if the wood is squishy/full of holes.
This is why you get a home inspection done. Never trust what the homeownwer or the realtor tell you.
Every single house in California has termites, just have your inspector tell you how bad, it's probably not even worth fixing get fumigation ever 10 years

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Previous Edition: >>2615694

Question of the Thread: Is Silver or Gold better?
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If the part is really critical or costly then a good nickel plating is possibly worth it. If it needs to look good for that yacht trip you take LA kids on, then likewise.

But if you're just running fish tours for Oklahoma boomers, they won't mind a little corrosion.
it is neither, it is just a cupholder plate thing I'm making for dear old dad for Christmas for his boat. the original one is made from acrylic and gets broken all the time because the dipshit who designed the boat put it literally an inch from the step to get from the deck to the bow, so it gets stepped on and snapped at least once a season. so being a gift I definitely don't want it to corrode, Plus I think the off silver color nickel makes is pretty snazzy. but I was just curious if for some reason nickel or nickel over stainless is prone to corrosion in oceanic conditions.
also I'm making an under support thing to go under the cup holder to prevent it from bending when stepped on but that'll just be out of plastic so I'm obviously I'm not too concerned about rust for that.
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Does CO2 corrode tungsten electrodes?

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>Inhaling toxic shit all day for kicks
Enjoy the cancers
In that case, clean the FUCK out of the stainless and go low and slow on the electroplating to avoid bubbles.

At high temps it may form WOx and carbon soot... I am not sure of the energy differential but there is a reason lightbulbs were evacuated and not filled with as simple of a gas as CO2 - otherwise they'd have used it?

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Anyone else's business just hit the wall this year? Profits are down by over half, I'm barley breaking even on the jobs I get, people are becoming increasingly more fickle and try to jew me down at every corner. This shit sucks, is anyone else in the same boat?
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If you like poor people so much why do you vote for guys that make them come into the country as illegal aliens?

There's a door in the border wall, ypu just need to come in legally and its fine.

>but that's takes so looong!

Yeah okay, congress decided there should be a limit on how many migrants enter the country a year, you don't want to break the law do you?
Boiler factory engineer here, our input is drastically down this month. We have guys sitting idle on the shop floor and we aren't even in the slow season yet (nobody likes to replace boilers and burners in the winter and construction is out of the question in this part of the country). I hope we can avoid layoffs...
He also blamed the fed, banks, property speculators, builders and government but that went right over your head because you're a triggered little baby who cries at having basic facts pointed out. Its ok little buddy, does baby want a bottle?
I work for myself, lot's of millenials between 30-40+ are home owners now and have been making good money. One should always pursue richer clients as they are going to give you the least amount of bullshit etc.

I just assembled a fucking propane grill and replaced two fence boards for $300 and 2.5 hrs of time. Dumb nigga was walking around his backyard in socks
basic shit is good money, I charge $100 to replace old flood lights, $200 for a fan etc

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I've always said I wanna make a pallet shack. Take free pallets at work and make a shack out of them. I did. For free. No power tools. All I bought was a box or two of nails. Used a hammer saw pry bar and a hand drill. It's functional. Mostly waterproof. Right now I put my garden tools in there on a bench.
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The main problem in winter will be icy snow putting a lot of weight. The flat design can't handle it so well. even a slight slope in 1 direction would be good, and easier to clean snow off off. IDK how you made the walls but honestly if you found a solid cover like plaster that you can paint people might not even notice lol. 3rd world problems require 3rd world solutions.
I wouldn't live in it myself but good for you for doing something we've all thought about
some halo 3 custom games looking shit
good job anon.
what is the frame and flooring like?
Framing is the inside of a pallet. So just like beams and nothing else, I'll take a pic soon!

And the floor is essentially two sheets of plywood with blocks between them, it's a different type of pallet. But it makes the hardwood noise when I walk on it :)

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Here in Canada at Rona they have for the past 2 weeks had a deal where if you buy $100 worth of stuff, they give you a $25 gift card.
I'm doing a renovation and needed a bunch of stuff.
I went 40 different times with myself, friends and family and got 40 gift cards and basically got $1000 worth of building materials for free.
You are only allowed one card a day so I went through the contractors checkout as well as the main one in the same visit and they didn't notice.
Today I spent over $1000 on drywall and wire and the cashier had to scan all 40 cards kek

You guys got stories of getting crazy deals on DIY/building shit?
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>waste oil centrifuge
I am learning so much from this thread.
>Even with all this fucking around I bet Harbor Freight still made a profit off of you. Basically if you're paying full price they're you're doing it wrong.

Who said I ever "paid full price" for anything there. I always used a coupon of some sort. And yeah I'm sure they did still make some money off of me and everyone else or they would have been out of business a long damn time ago...
out of morbid curiosity, what did you buy? I can count the number of things on 1 hand that I would actually invest in from harbor freight, with the rest not touching with a 10 foot pole
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>out of morbid curiosity, what did you buy? I can count the number of things on 1 hand that I would actually invest in from harbor freight, with the rest not touching with a 10 foot pole

I'm not your typical DIYer, I have 2 shops, plus a garage, two farms, a few houses to take care of, an entire fleet of pickups, trucks, a full on service truck, tractors, and loaders, trailers, etc. So when I need something it adds up quickly. Every tractor has a couple adjustable wrenches and a pry bar on it. Every loader and trailer has a few chains on it, every pickup gets a hydraulic jack and a hi-lift jack on it as well as pry bars and a set of tools, etc.

I have bought floor jacks, hydraulic bottle jacks, hi-lift jacks, spud bars, smaller pry bars, pipe wrenches, adjustable wrenches, a ton of their trucker chains as well as bulk chain, cable, winches, hitches, hitch pins, assortments of pto pins, lynch pins, grease zerks, o-rings, pneumatic tools, air hoses, electric motors, predator engines of every size, caster wheels, solid rubber wheels, hydraulic presses, pressure washers, oil drain station for under the lift, air over hydraulic pumps, knockout punches, porta power accessories, vibratory tumblers, welding helmets, chip brushes, latex gloves, degreaser, sandblasting media, tumbling media, grinding and cut-off wheels, diamond wheels, sorting/organizing bins/cases, toolboxes, rolling carts, hydraulic lift cart, 3x engine stands, hand trucks, sds bits, rolling magnets, earth auger, their 6x26 knee mill, etc.

The list goes on and on.

I've had good luck with almost everything I bought from there. You can tell what is absolute shit if you go there and look at the thing. I stay away from their battery tools. The corded stuff is fine for occasional use, or actually some of their current corded stuff is pretty gud. I have a little bauer angle grinder that was like $35 and it's my current go to for grinder work. Like the damn thing a lot.
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Some of their hardware assortments are cheese grade so shy away. Mostly the metal screws. Also the wall anchor kit with the toggle bolts is absolute horse shit quality, like I don't know why they even bothered to produce it because it is that bad and will just piss you off. The cheap tape measures will work for a bit and then break. They gave them away for free for quite a while, so they were worth it then. Not so much if you have to pay for them though. The die grinders are ok, but not great. They will get you by for a while until you can find a sweet deal on some good ones. Their little needle scalers are top notch and work amazingly. Oil them from time to time. Chip brushes are handy as hell for cleanup work on stuff and even painting. Don't even worry about cleaning them out because they're like $0.26 a piece. Throw the damn thing away. Paint guns are actually damn good for the price!

Predator engines are amazing for the price, especially when you could get them for around $100 on sale. Everything that needs re-powered gets a predator thrown on it. Their electric motors are good for re-powering stuff on the cheap.

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I have a small single axle camper where the springs are underneath the axle. When I back it into my driveway the guards located under the rear bumper will scrape against.

I'd like to get a little lift to the camper so that I can back up without the scrape. Would adding a single steel plate between last leaf spring plate and the u-bolt plate give me a boost? As I look and study it more I am starting to think it may actually lower the camper by that much.
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It looks like you have trailer brakes. It would be possible to flip the axle and get a lot of lift however I would worry about axle wrap under braking. It's not a huge risk but trailer makers tend to use the shitiest thing that just works long enough for the warranty to expire. The other option is you could use some drop shackles to lift it a little bit.
Either way lifting a trailer can cause a lot of other problems with stability. Might be easier to just remove the guards that are dragging or just let them self clearance.
Flipping the springs over the axle would give too much lift, around 6-7 inches. Also, removing the guards would put the plumbing works at risk. The guard extends 10 inches downwards from the frame, the same length as the gray and black water pipes.
if that's your shitbox state when unloaded, you might as well weld the rear axle directly to the chassis at that point
>re-arched springs - slow and pretty expensive, if you can even find a local shop that does springs, anymore. A lot of them are gone, in the last 30 years.

I've re-arched my own and built my own leaf packs from broken/used packs before. Hydraulic press works pretty gud to re-arch the leaves. I have just laid the individual leaves down and marked the floor with chalk to show the arch, then mark every few inches along the leaf and give it some hydraulic press action (try to do the same in each spot down the length of the entire spring) Then when done, lay it on the floor against the original spring tracing and see if you hit your target or need to go more or less.
Then your best bet would be some drop shackles. Be careful though, lifting a trailer can really fuck with how it rides down the road. A couple inches should be ok but keep a close eye on it the first time you take it on the highway.

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I run a small crop spraying business. I'm trying to automate the chemical mixing process. I have a 7' x 14' trailer and a 255-gallon water tank. The current system I have I use one pump to pump water from the IBC tote to a 60 gallon cone bottom inductor tank, pour chemical into graduates to make a 30 gallon batch, then pour into the tank. Then I have another pump to either recirculate the mixture or to send it out to my sprayer.

I have this idea for a system with hoppers that I can pour chemical into and then I input how much chem per gallon, like 8fl oz of chem per 2gallon of water, and then it pumps the solution & the water into the inductor. The goal is basically to always have exactly 10 gallons of mixed chemical ready to pump out at any time. Takes around 8 minutes for me to spray 10 gallons, so it can mix in the mean time

I have an idea for two approaches, both would likely require a programmable logic controller of some sort.
1. Have variable rate peristaltic pumps pumping solution out of the hoppers and out of the tote.
2. Have cheap pumps connected to the hoppers but use flowmeters and solenoid valves to shut off the flow once the transfer volume has been met. One issue here is wouldn't that deadhead the pump?
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Definitely weak on the basics of programming micro-controllers, but I'm willing to brute force to achieve this task. So if I'm understanding correctly, use the arduino IDE to program the ESP32 with like total steps for the individual motors? Maybe? It looks like It would go Pump > Driver > ESP32? Then interface with ESP32 with a mobile app perhaps.

I was thinking get 3 of these pumps, two for moving water
Kamoer 3700ml/min KK25-ODM DIY High Flow Peristaltic Pump 24V

Then get maybe 4 or 5 of these
Kamoer 400-1300ml/min KKDD High Flow Peristaltic Pump 24V DC Motor Dosing Pump

And run those for my chemical additives. Do the whole thing in 24v too. How does it know how many steps to run for a goal volume transfused?

Example situation
6fl oz of fungicide per acre, so 3oz per gallon

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More ESP32>driver>motor, and yeah, use the arduino IDE to program the esp.
If that's the $300 motor then you are vastly overpaying here. For water just use a simple cheapo pump of any kind and calibrate it either by time or with a flow sensor, I'm assuming you don't need high precision.
The smaller pumps are probably fine, but there are <$20 ones like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004240331933.html which would probably be fine for fucking around, you can always upgrade to the fancier one if the thing actually works.
Buy a bunch of DRV8825 drivers, they're cheap and decent, you'll probably fuck up one or two in the process, driver boards, either like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003166428228.html or grbl cnc shield and connect the esp with wires.
Steppers work on a wide voltage range, about 10-30V at least, it's more of a question of what the driver can accept. I'd recommend sticking to 12V since this is a low power project, not much benefit from 24V.
>How does it know how many steps to run for a goal volume transfused?
You measure it when setting up the device, it's going to be consistent. Do 100 steps, measure, do 500 steps, measure, do 5000 steps, measure, calculate the average. Same with the regular pump for water, except that will be detected pulses from the flow sensor, rather than steps.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003748611606.html flow sensor can be like this, hall effect so nothing in contact with the water inside.
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Here you go. At a going rate of $200/hr for a skilled engineer, you now owe me 50 bucks.
What kind of pump are you using OP? My current spray skid is a 6.5hp engine running a triple plunger diaphragm pump. Probably overkill but i got the pump for free because it needed some serious rebuilding.

New spray rig will have a new triple plunger diaphragm pump and I am going to try one of those little 3-4 hp diesel engines on it...

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>be mechanic, drivetrain specialist
>test driving customer vehicle
>vibration at highway speeds
>to merge on highway jump on throttle to match speed
>merge in, leave off throttle to just maintain speed (about 60mph)
>peddle is stuck full throttle let's fucking go
>turn key off
>turn hazards on
>safely coast with light brake pressure to the side of the road
>find plastic engine cover stopped throttle linkage from returning closed
>remove it place on passanger floor
>remember that Toyota recall about floor mats holding pedal to the flpor
>why didn't they just shut the car off like I did
>oh... Panic, I panicked for a second
Can you shut off push button starts? Even if you can, is it as intuitive? Because panic happens. And is it as immediate? Are these push button joints death traps? Pic is just a recent alignment I did. I normally try to get perfect but he was a waiter
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pic related to the thread I swear on god my boi dindu nuffin and FORD lobbied Biden in to bring hoards of shitskins in to lease a brand new shitbox built by the usual suspects in Detroit and Ive had ford shitbox do a run away on me and panicked.
Holy fucking shit op you're a goddamn dumbass. killing the engine=killing power steering/brakes.Throw it in neutral and get off the road, fuck the goddamn engine. fucktards like you that call themselves "mechanics'' should be put in the fucking oven.
>power steering
Doesn't really matter at highway speeds, should steer just fine so long as you're not trying to make a 5 point turn. Never driven a car with broken power steering before?
Never known a car where the brakes stop working when the key is out, to say nothing of when just turning the key off. That would be a real safety issue I'd think. What happens when a 7-foot dutchman jams his knee into the key in his kei car while on the highway?

The greater risk is of being in one of those newer cars where the steering wheel locks, but I assume they don't do that when the key turned off because again that's a safety issue. Same for the brakes slamming on, though that's marginally less dangerous.
you get a few pumps of the brakes before they lock up
>you get a few pumps of the brakes before they lock up

You get a few pumps before you lose vacuum booster pressure you mean. The brakes will still work, just your weak little legs won't be able to push the pedal.

T. Owner of a few old vehicles without power steering or vacuum boosted brakes.

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I'm tired, /diy/.
I'm so tired of renovating this place.
It's been 4 years of constant plastering, drilling, screwing, hammering and pulling.
I just want it to be over.
I bought this place for cheap as a concrete cube with some bullshit woodwork in it that needed to be stripped entirely and figured I could do the place up all by myself.
I've done about 100K worth of work myself but I'm so fucking DONE. I can't look at a drillbit without wanting to fucking hang myself.

Picrel is a rough plastering of a wall that was covered with old boards that weren't even aligned properly and were bent to all hell so I had to tear them all out with a crowbar since they were screwed in from the other end that was already boarded up. Plaster is where all the screws left holes.
Then entire drywall behind it is fucked up so I'll have to get someone in to plaster over everything.
I should have just hired a pro from the start.

Anybody ever bit off more than they can chew?
We have a tv show with people like you, all guys that wanted to diy their renovation but end up 2 years later on the edge of depression with no working faucet

Just get a pro in, drywaller, painter and have them do it. It’s a downward spiral that’s very hard to break, better cry now and spend some money than spend another year
Is it called "Mijn man is een klusser" by any chance?
Never thought I'd be one of those guys, frankly.
If I were married my wife probably would have left me by now.
Just keep plugging away at it and don't get overwhelmed. Focus on one thing that needs done and do it. Then once that is done move onto the next task.

How do you eat a shit sandwich? One bite at a time.

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I'm planning on covering this 5x8' trailer with 1 1/8" subfloor plywood that will overhang about 7" each side so when I build my minimalist RV/cargo trailer it will have hair over 6' inside width.
WTF should I use to seal the plywood? I'd be OK with getting all drilled and bolted down dry fit, then take apart to seal, then re-assemble. In in CA and this thing will mostly just sit, but I'd still like to "start of right" because I'll be building crap on top.

Also, since it will be for just street use and they ride rather high, I might want some sliding drawers under frame on either side of wheel. Any suggestions?

Plan B would be to build a box under the frame before and after the axle, then have trap doors in the floor.
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I like the way you think, anon.

* much of a sail *

The needle enclosed trailers need to thread is low weight vs ability to withstand 100mph winds, which vehicles often see in the wake of onvoming semis
(50 mph gust at 50 mph)
used motor oil my nigga
PVC pipe is great in tension.
Won't this cause a slippery situation?

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