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File: Single mom lawn.jpg (1.3 MB, 2048x1363)
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This is the time of year when I look at people's lawns and know who the single moms are.
You can hide Single Mom Lawn all winter. But April will confirm everyone's divorcee status.

Oh, BTW, if you were born with a penis and your lawn looks like this, you may as well go ahead and start HRT and schedule your SRS, because you are clearly not a man.
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How do i remove grass from tightly laid pavers? Cant be pulled and the whipper snipper doesnt do much. Im fine going chemical as long as it actually removes it
Use a twisted wire cup wheel on your string trimmer. Like the ones you use on a grinder. Go easy on the pavers.
Angle the weed whacker 90 degrees and hit it
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Have fun with that.
Trimming vines isnt difficult. Also a note on ivy: it doesnt destroy buildings, it gets into already buated ones. It has great insulative properties

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Uncle Cletus' home renovation adventure continues with 10 more houses. Seriously though, how do I get in good with contractors so I can buy shit houses like this and repair them?

>get in good with contractors
You don't. You become the contractor and hire licensed subs. As the property owner its unlikely you'll need any license in most states. If you don't have any experience in construction or remodeling you will likely fail spectacularly. There is no substitute for practical experience when dealing with skilled trades.
He has a good plan and also has some investors. He talks about this from time to time in his earlier videos, haven't watched anything new from him in about a year. He's continuously leveraging his cash flow to buy more to generate even more cash flow. Lather, rinse, repeat. It works until your cash flow gets seriously disrupted and you can't pay your own bills .

He's in a really low value and rough part of Ohio, mostly crackheads and people one gubmint check away from being homeless. Outside of Columbus I think, area was probably nice during the steel belt days.

Iirc his brother does a lot of the fixup work. I got tired of watching his coin counting videos and I guess he dropped off my recommendation list. He seems ok, definitely setting himself up as a slumlord but from what I saw he treats his tenants decently and tried to keep the properties up when he's allowed to.
he bought two trailer parks in the mean-time, the idea being someone can live in the trailer park for low cost and save money to buy a house while working for amazon/walmart and making money.

slumlord is a bit harsh, cheap housing is really just an opportunity. Sadly it's mostly just crackheads/spoonies that don't even take advantage of it.
Probably just semantics. I refer to anyone serving the lowest rung as a slumlord. Not exclusively a derogatory label in my mind.

I found a lot of his videos very interesting. At the very least it's an object lesson for anyone considering doing the same.
monnneyyy monnneyyy monnnayyyy

Trying to drain the engine and summmerize the snow hog. Came across pic related oil sticker. Wtf is it saying? Leave the cap off and don’t tighten it?
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dipshit it's says to CHECK the oil unscrew it and only put it in till it stops to get a reading. jesus it's so obvious.
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That's for checking the oil, like >>2084236 said.

Does it have a fuel line petcock?
If so, add fuel stabilizer to the gas in the tank (go buy some Sta-Bil if you don't have any), start the motor, run it for a bit, then close the petcock and let it run until the carb drains.
Then the only gas that's left in the tank is stabilized and should be fine until next winter.

Or do what my neighbor did and just let it idle in your driveway for three hours on Easter Sunday until it runs out of fuel.
>let it idle in your driveway for three hours on Easter Sunday until it runs out of fuel.
This is the proper way.
Drain your gas tank with a pump, pour a little stabilizer in the bit that's left, and run it till it dies from lack of gas. Then change the oil with some cheap Walmart 5w30, spray lube on any exposed joints (or pump lube into any fittings if you have a fancy model), and park it.

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Any ideas how to diy stainless steel coffee capsules?
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That sounds better, but still not optimal. Would it be possible to make a deep drawing tool at home? Or would that be retardedly expensive?
Not one that doesn't crumple the metal to shit. It would have to be a machined die to uniformly resize the metal
Well the capsule is cylindrical and my dad has a small hobbyist lathe. The die would be the easy part, but I don't have a hydraulic press. Can I just hammer manually?
You need to press it in evenly while having a ballast inside the container to keep it from caving in. Like how they put sand in tubing when bending it.

This sounds like it's getting more labor intensive than it's worth. Bite the bullet, get some cheap pods
what is the point? pod machines always underextract, learn to brew.

How do i move steel table like the one on picture. I'm alone, no neighbours to help, and need to transfer it from a place like 150 meters away (its all pure land, no concrete to roll it out on wheels). Cant use vehicle to pull it out, due to trees and other garbage on the way.
Any suggestions?
Table is heavy, barely can lift one side of it.
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You can’t. Not without help or safely. You could try and jack it up to put a sheet of plywood underneath, and then drag it with your truck, but it depends on the ground. I would also say get some off-road style wheels and try that but easier way is to borrow a few mates and have them help while you use a truck and or winch
Anon get a friend to help.
>clear away brush
>lay down plywood on ground to make a clear straight path
>use jack and boards to raise table and fix on wheels to it or put it on something that has wheels
>roll the table to the other location
It’ll still be super hard as you can’t control something with that much weight rolling, but easier than dragging it.
Best way is either:
1) Moving Dollies/Casters
2) Rent some Mexicans and have them break their backs for $100 and a case of Corona
3) Sled that bitch on a piece of plywood and pull it by winching it around

Besides that, everyone has said what to do OP. Just try all of the things suggested and then come back with pic if all of those fail so we can make fun of you
>Table is heavy, barely can lift one side of it.
Lift it every day until you can lift the entire table.
>You can’t. Not without help or safely.

I move shipping containers single handed without help and usually without breaking a sweat and quite safely as they cannot fall or move uncontrolled.

There are many ways to reduce drag resistance besides the others I posted. For example it's not worth buying two pieces of 4" or larger PVC to skid the thing on (flip onto the side facing the camera first) but a few round, straight logs etc will keep it off the dirt and reduce drag resistance when pulling it with wire rope. A long thick stick or pipe is sufficient to lift it slightly when tossing the log you left behind beneath the forward edge.

I'd save that rack in a heartbeat since good heavy shop tables aren't cheap and a fair bit of fab went into that one. Once OP is devirginized he/she/xir will have a better idea how to move many such things or any size. Never be intimidated by rigging, but do study how to do it right.

One trick worth knowing is pushing the middle of a long cable or rope because that gives you great mechanical advantage over the dragged load and is often faster than winding a winch.

Study off-road recovery (4x4 and tow truck varieties) for many useful concepts you can tweak to suit.

I need a resilient and deformable material to serve as a buffer/padding to prevent metal-metal contact. A good example is pic related; a recoil buffer in a PPSh-41 recoil spring assembly. This material wouldnt go under nearly as much stress as a recoil buffer in a firearm, but it would have to withstand at least a couple million repetitions without permanently compressing/deforming.

Materials I've looked at so far: gumfoam, neoprene foam, EDPM, polyurethane foam/gel, PVC foam, mass-loaded vinyl, EVA foam, leather, and cork. I'm not considering hydraulic or pneumatic shock absorber, as preferably the solution should be as thin as i could make it.
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Of course, why didn't i think of that?
Would significant sound be generated with that kind of rubber? This is something I want to avoid
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OP is obviously making a sex machine
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Castable urethane. Hapco tech support are helpful.

I want to make a go kart
I know nothing about go karts
I've never driven one nor even a car at that
I have no money so I'm planning on just using scraps
I want it to be fast
I have the determination and discipline of a mad man

is it possible?
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Anon, that's really cool. You did good.
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4 wheels are cheaper than 2. So don't go the route I ended up going down.
Mad man? Only madman I know changed the v-belt ratio on his lawn mower to burn ass on grass
What kind of moped/scooter? For Puch (Piaggio) ones there’s a whole range of aftermarket springs and weights available to adjust the clutch behaviour, and a lot of hobbyists instructions on how to increase/decrease the weight.
Plz put a chain guard, you don’t want to dig pieces of metal out from your calf muscle when something goes wrong

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So i have this tape machine which has AC motor and i want to vary its speed. Tried a triac for varying AC and it worked but induced extreme pulsing noise in the audio. Any ideas for regulating AC that arent as noisy?

Also i read if you make a motor run slower than intended itll harm it. How true is this? Its a slow motor anyway, id say 300rpm.
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Thank you angry anon for keeping the thread bumped, I hope to see you back soon.

Really haven't found an off the shelf solution to this even though it seems to be a very common demand. I don't know why that is the case. The simplest thing I could come up with is an H bridge microcontroller driven design. The picture attached is missing all kinds of protection and transistor drivers but it captures the basic idea. You rectify and filter your mains supply resulting in ~350v DC which is switched by the H bridge to the motor. The H bridge is controlled by the micro which feeds PWM output to 2 of the transistors and simple on/off signal to the other two. Frequency is selected by measuring the voltage across a potentiometer. Should be implementable using Arduino which is convenient, I drew the diagram using ATtiny85 which just has enough pins to implement this.

If you're gonna call me a retard at least try to be constructive about it.
the triac probably lowered the entire unit voltage, which lowered the motor voltage and the voltage needed for tape bias. bias is a ultrasonic frequency blasted at all times on a tape recording that causes the audible frequency spectrum to record much more linearly/without distortion. saturating this frequency range forces the iron filings to behave better in the audible frequency range. pulling this out of my ass, lower AC means lower supply voltage for bias unit which would me lower frequency from the bias oscillator, which would result in the weird pulsating noise you were describing. so what you're going to want to do is use the triac on the motor alone, and leave the amplification/bias circuitry at full power.
oh wait, you're a cunt. i shouldn't have even given you advice on how non-linear tape distortion is handled with ultrasonic bias. thanks for gauging up another piece nobody is making anymore, you bloodclot limey faggot, i'm sure it'll be worth it for whatever medium-talent ableton project you totally won't abandon in a month. or maybe your a lizard gizard retro-fag or a synth-tard who doesn't know how the fuck music even works?
What kind of switch is used for the three speed selectors? I want to replicate this in a pedal
Those are sometimes called radio buttons but good luck finding them under that name. All you get is web shit.

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I took a job that requires me to get a Class A CDL within 8 months of hire. I have some experience driving grain trucks on my grandpas farm.
How fucked am I?
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And know the air brakes test. Know someone who failed because he didn't do the air brakes check properly.
None of they pay for it.

If they don't then you got a job for 8 months at least.
It's less than two weeks and over $3,000 scam school. Of your only goal is to get the cdl get your paper print out and bounce. Fuck the school scam.
I hear a lot of people who take community college courses for like $4k and maybe 3 months to complete. I’m sure they teach it properly, but any person of average intelligence doesn’t need all of those classroom hours and the 16-16 in the truck is the same either way.

I did mine like 10 years ago at some Polak school, it was $1900 and you can go as fast or slow as you want, but 4wk minimum because the state wants you to hold the permit for a few weeks. The clasroom time was pretty much like come in, clock in and out to rack up your hours, sometimes an instructor is there to answer questions, but I was there at night most days and sat there teaching stupid people how to do the brake tests properly because they couldn’t read.
This is a county level job, evidently they do pay for it and train you once you get your CDL permit. I asked a bunch of the guys about it today. No classes in my state, written test, walkaround test and driving test. You pass all them you're good to go.

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I added a Lipo batty to it with an esp8266 charge-discharge board. It's using an I2C screen because I don't have any SPI ones. I made a few for my friends and my brother in law.
I like
Very cool, is it your invention?
Nice, can you make one for me too?
Me too

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What would be the best way to go about building a substantial backyard pyramid? This is something that I have wanted to do for a long time but have not gotten around to, but I want to plan it out since it's something that I really want.

Pyramid requirements:
• Pyramid should be encircled by steps to reach the top.
• The pyramid's final height should reach about 50 ft / 15 m.
• The pyramid shouldn't exceed an area of about 2500 sq. ft.
• The pyramid should take advantage of whatever materials are cheapest according to volume and won't fall apart given the chosen retention system. (I was thinking of gabion walls and concrete footings with compacted dirt.)

Please tell me how you would go about accomplishing this task.

Thanks for your time,
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Unspeakably based, Steve
You could do engineered earth for maximum ease. Then you can tile the outside of your pyramid.
>tiles on a pyramic
How to make a monument look like a public toilet.exe
Anon you need to be able to go inside. The great pyramids are a giant meditation chamber to easily achieve astral projection.

I know nothing about axes. I have one, pic related, that I use for cutting kindling. I use it in conjunction with a hammer for an easy, accurate and safe cut but after a year it’s falling apart and I know it’s only a matter of time until the head breaks off. What sort of axe (or what metal) do I need for this job?
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its a miniature cone splitter, the bane of osha
Is that because people lay down spread eagle in front of it and use it to drill their ass? Or is that, do people not do that.. Probably not, right? Cause that would be gross haha
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I also 2nd the idea of a froe and strike it with a mallet or dead blow, not a metal hammer.

>invest in a machine.
What kind of machine do you use to make kindling ?
its because the log/screw can twist and pull your cloths in like a drill press, usually those things are bigger and operated on 1m long cuts

the small table version with the riving knife is pretty save, Id save more save than an Axe and definitely less effort to use
Your mom’s favorite pastime.

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my kenmore sewing machine keeps jamming, pulls the fabric down and to the left. not sure what's going wrong, if it's getting caught on something, idk. tried lowering and raising the tension, no change. any help would be appreciated. was sewing great for several days then all the sudden it started jamming like this
When's the last time you changed the needle?
If you really can't get it to work, check the timing. The hook should pick up the thread from the needle at the very bottom of the needle's travel. If the needle and hook are out of alignment, the thread can get caught in the bobbin carrier and jam.

Is this a decent boot for work?

Also, work boots in general I guess.
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Mild sympathy for a backwards, effeminate, stupid, man.
I wear the Danner equivalent as my town boots. They're comfortable, functional, and rebuildable. But on the first rebuild, I'm getting these god forsaken soles changed out. I do garden work in them. Would never wear them to a construction site, or even a warehouse. May try a light hiking trip, but because the wedge sole is so smooth and soft, I have no serious use for them.
They take polish well, make for nice character in the interplay between the flat and ridged areas. Like a sunburst guitar finish. I hit them with some mink oil first to speed wearing in and give minimal water resistance.
In short: No. But fine for hobbyists.
I wear thick socks and they're fine
They might even be a bit on the loose side with normal socks
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anybody else instinctively massage their feet while going through this thread?
Grown men generally give a shit what they look like, and Danner's don't look like shite anyway anon so your point's moot. Anyway, nice trips.

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My kitchen faucet just broke and it's a corner sink where the only access is a narrow cabinet door that no human can possibly fit into. How the fuck am I supposed to access this? Do I have to open a hole in the wall from the other room just to install a faucet?
Disconnect the plumbing, remove the whole sink from the cabinet and put it on the floor and work on it from there
maybe if you posted some actual picture of your task instead of a generic picture of sink we could help
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Lose some weight and use one of these.

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