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File: Watermelon-Farm[1].jpg (372 KB, 1800x1200)
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i think i want to be a melon farmer, how do I do it myself
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Where'd the tiddies go?
Respect Bloke , an Just sorry this .. TC :^)
Sounds boring
Just watch mr magestic
How do I farm pineapples super quick?

t. Floriduh man
1. Get a watermelon
2. Smash it somewhere arable
3. Water the results and wait

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Help me pick out a rolling tool bag /diy/, it seems as if these things were designed by people that don't even work in the trades, I should make my own!
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Just get a good handtruck
The Milwaukee one actually is the best. The way they made bags lock, and the one-handed release, and release of individual units. Much nicer. I bought the Dewalt one anyway because it's cheaper and the no-frills black boxes fit my tools and my space inside my truck best. Rigid makes theirs too.
Cabinet makers work in a shop, they have no need for such tool boxes. Cabinet installers perhaps, but their tool kit is fairly small.

Nah, it is just production equipment and exploiting people who think that the methods of mass production are the best way to do anything. They have done an amazing job of it and are doing quite well. A good amount of the Festool equipment can not be beat when it comes to low volume production were stationary tools for every need is far beyond budget.
Except that SnapOn is actually good
>Just get a good handtruck

Got some links? Thinking about getting one of those handtruck wagons.

Which of these tools is better for cutting drywall and will net me more overall multipurpose use?
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>A handsaw works well enough for those weird cuts.
I honestly never use anything except a utility knife, jab saw, and multi-tool when I do drywall. If there's one of those compass-circle-cutter thingies on the job site I'll use that for circles but, I never bother to touch a rotary cutter. It's one of the few power tools I've never felt any desire to buy. But I don't go trying to do a lot of drywall either.

see - >>1832007 just put it on and book, insta box

fuck the cutout tool unless you're doing a ton of drywall and circle cuts
how welldoes this avtually work
I did not know that blade existed for the multitool. This, and clit tickling too? It truly is a wondrous tool.

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So what started as new hardwood floors has me replacing a ceramic tile fireplace surround with stone. This is where I'm at right now. Waiting for sealer to dry on wood floor before tackling more on the fireplace.

I am going with cultured stone because... Murica? I actually got a really good deal on stone and I have corner pieces That give the stone some "depth" to make it look more realistic.

This is where I'm overthinking things. How do I build out a 2x4 frame so I can attach cement board to install stone?

Should I pocket drill the 2x4's and screw them in side to side?

Where do I cut the drywall to expose enough studs to connect to without compromising the rest of the wall? When I put back up cement board, I'd like the existing drywall to not be flimsy and still firmly anchored to the studs.

Thanks. Posting some more pics...
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Get a grout bag and pipe new mortar into the gaps.
OP here. Depending on how hard the mortar is, you would rake the joints back and point the mortar joints with a fire rated mortar. Point the joints as high as you can reach.

Like others stated, having a chimney sweep come and clean is not crazy expensive and they can inspect and give you suggestions on what and if anything need be done.
Thanks v much anons! I’ve ordered for a sweep and if the only thing he suggests is re doing the joints then I can just do it myself.
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Anon, cultured stone is garbage and it will look like shit in 10 years. The paint wears off and it will look grey and dull. You're not doing a huge job either so the price difference for real stone is not going to be that much.

As for the drywall, my advice would be to just screw a flat 2x4 directly onto the existing studs with a lot of long screws, make your 'frame' for the fireplace with a bunch of cross supports and then put the cement board straight onto that. Don't overthink it too much.

Using 'spacers' or grout or permanent wet spray will make it look shitty, it's stone work, it's not meant to be perfect.

T. Mason, pic related a chimney we did last week using real stone veneer.
Looks dope as fuck brother.

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Well /diy/kes, I'm starting a cold smoker project. Plan is to power wash then sand this bad boi and repaint it and cut a ducting hole in the back towards the bottom and run the smoke from an old furnace I've got up thru the chamber and out a chimney where the electrical unit currently sits. Thoughts? Tips or tricks? General curing too. I've got a pancetta and prosciutto at home in a mini fridge.
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Here's the wood stove

I just got hired as a laborer for an electrical company in northern California that I will eventually become an apprentice at within a couple months. my question is, what brand on chordless drill lots would you recommend? I like my dad's old dewalts but he wont lend them to me and I am strictly anti nu-dewalt because of how they cheapened the build quality. I'm thinking milwaukee but I want to get some outside info. also what am I in for
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I have personal connections there. trust me I know that would be a bad idea otherwise.
Do they not supply tools in Mutt ?
Get ingersoll rand so nobody steals your batteries
apparently not, my bet is on high staff turnover and them stealing and employers not taking that shit.
Used to be in general if you were an employee you were expected to show up with hand tools and maybe a circular saw and that's it. Subcontractors had to have their own tools. Now with everything going cordless most guys have bought and use their own personal tools, and companies just expect everyone to show up with all their own shit. Not sure how we conned ourselves into that one.

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Buying books / printing PDF's for this or that is nice. As much as I think I need to learn how to home brew I think but what about cannons? Forging is cool but would be so much cooler with forging a cannon.

I've heard of analog control computer cannons used during WWII that boggles the mind and then digital ones. I'm learning more on the side of analog.

does / DIY/ have any books to recommend on cannons or is this a Russia only freedom?
Hey, this thread again. I haven't seen it in like a year or two! Good times. Fuck me if I can't find it though in the archives though.

Anyway, the basics of the thing are this: any large gun will either be cast or made of wrought iron. Casting is right out as it takes real fucking skill to pull off. Without that skill, you are just making an improvised claymore that will kill everyone around it when it explodes. That and thousands upon thousands of dollars in equipment and materials and it is still very much not a one-man job. Wrought iron will work as you can forge the pieces one by one and assemble the gun. Still not a one-man operation if you are trying for something like a small navel gun but doable with a bit of help. Picture related. That said, you have to be a real blacksmith to do it. Not some hack that turns railroad spikes into shitty knives. A real honest to goodness knows what the fuck they are doing blacksmith. Then you will be able to make something that is early 19th century at best.

Anything more modern than that is beyond the scope of DIY because of the chemistry needed to produce the shells. You can't just buy a bunch of smokeless powder and think you have a modern gun. That is 19th-century shit. The shit needed to make one, just the basic supplies, will put you on the top of an FBI watchlist. That is long before the years of schooling you will need to not blow yourself up trying to make cordite or something like it. See the Weather Underground movement and what happened to their last bomb-making project.

If you just want a little thing they make kits that cost a couple of hundred bucks and can fire something like 1-inch projectiles. You still ain't going to be able to cast your own barrel though. That is simply not something you can DIY without years and years of practice. Trying to bodge up a small cannon barrel vs a large one just limits the size of the pipe bomb you will be making, not improve its odds of not blowing up.
Thanks for killing my enthusiasm....
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He is right though, with cannons it is not just "when something goes wrong, nothing happens" but instead "when something goes wrong, it explodes and kills the user". It's a very unforgiving thing to just quickly try out.

If you like to make things fly though, you could try spud guns and rocketry.

What the fuck is this plant and how do I get rid of it? It won’t stop growing in my yard. I leave for two weeks and it’s become monstrous.
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Monsanto will tell you it's a-ok! I wouldn't eat it though.
Monsanto doesn't exist anymore. Fucking Bayer bought them out.
monsanto sales people would also drink a shot of roundup to make that point. but my original question would stand I guess, root vegetables are natural soakers of whats around them arent they? seems like theyd get contaminated
The Germans own everything.

I would definitely steer clear. I think with roundup it is generally stored in the roots.
You don't want to just uproot it?

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So I want to paint my truck (work truck + daily driver) and according to the interwebs this is the best single stage paint evar made, the DIY examples I've seen are amazing...except that it has been discontinued for whatever reason, and the remaining stock I can find is horribly overpriced and not the color I want.

What would be a good equivalent (single stage, oil based enamel, and good quality) I'm located in Canada, worst case Ontario
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
The choice between oil based 1 komponent and other types of paint is the larger variation in methods of application and the cure time.

The durability of the finish will not make that big of a difference.
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I used XO rust implement paint on my service truck. I like how thick it is. I also thinned it down with acetone and added Japan hardener and catalyst. I would recommend doing the same otherwise the paint will take a friggin month to cure up hard. This way it "only" takes a week or so. And it will dry to the touch after a few hours, but I mean fully harden so you're not leaving imprints of your fingerprints or jeans material when you lean up against it...

Oh and you can get XO rust at true value or other Ace hardware stores. They also sell the catalyst hardener but you can buy it cheaper online. And their reducer that is made for it is just acetone, so just buy acetone as it is much cheaper in a gallon than buying their pints of hardener. I chose to go this route because that truck is massive and I had to paint everything. Inside the boxes, the crane boom, outside the boxes, etc. It took me 8 gallons of paint so far and I still have to paint some shields, the bucket, bumper, and a few other misc things...

If I was buying urethane of some kind I'd be in the poor house right now. It was expensive enough just using tractor paint!
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Forgot to add another pic. Oh yeah I also still need to paint the wheels...
Very nice - both truck and paint job.

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Would it be a total pain in the ass to try to build a small electric truck without welding anything? I've got the money, the time and the space to get started but I'm not really equipped or experienced enough to set up a welding rig. All the electric trucks coming out look totally gay and are still stuck in the giant future-F150 trend. I just want something like pic related.
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>have custom vehicle
>go to Indiana
>do a Body Transfer Affadavit
>retitle and recertify vehicle
>without welding anything
Learning to weld is, compared to what you're trying to do, extremely easy. Putting it another way, if you're worried even about just welding shit, you've no chance of making it.
Then why dont electric cars use transmissions? Granted they have some sort of gearing, its a one-speed transmission, meaning it is just fixed gearing.
Having a usual cars transmission is stupid. The amazing thing about electric motors is that they have alot of torque when starting. In IC-engines you want to convert torque when starting to drive.
You just do not need a transmission. Plus throwing a transmission out will save easy weight which will help with range.
Plus he wants a fully electric car, not a plug in hybrid. Plug in hybrids have significantly less batteries than fully electric vehicles.
Also you can have the motors as sprung weight. You could cut up the rear axle and place the two motors where the differential would have been.
You are right about this. Even just having two motors for RWD is annoying and youd need a real good controlling unit to keep them at the same RPM.
I guess a solution where the electric motor is in the place of the transmission and bolted to the rear axle would be the best and easiest solution.
The question to me would be how one would go about strengthening the parts. Granted that OP will use the set-up from the car he bought, I doubt the parts will be rated for a high torque electric motor. And changing the rear differential every 10k miles can not be the goal.
You could tweak the motor controller to limit output but that will reduce acceleration dynamic.
>Even just having two motors for RWD is annoying and youd need a real good controlling unit to keep them at the same RPM.
That's not that difficult a problem actually, at least not design wise. Faff to program for a car, but more integrating it with car electronics.

>Granted they have some sort of gearing, its a one-speed transmission, meaning it is just fixed gearing.
Ideally, you're kind of right, you don't want this. There are reasons for having this in terms of simplifying design.
>You could cut up the rear axle and place the two motors where the differential would have been.
That's what some of the newer EVs are starting to do more, having 2 or 3 motors. It's more complicated in terms of a conversion though. For OP the best thing is to keep it very simple, the biggest cost they'll have is getting batteries and the equipment like power supplies to mess around with this shit, so my advice is to make the project super simple: replace the engine with an electric. If they want to do something more, it'll cost very little to get another truck frame and most other parts, then they can cannibalise the batteries and anything else they need from the prototype.

The problem with a lot of motors is that I think you wouldn't see much benefit, the well known motors are already sized for moving a whole car so they're big and you'd need more power electronics like the inverter, then if you're cooling them that's another not insignificant job that also adds weight... the drivetrains are generally pretty efficient, are ready built to work well. They're also not always easy to modify, and for legal reasons you might not want to. You can also run into issues where you have to add more motors to pump lubricants or coolant that were otherwise done by the ICE so the weight saving isn't as fantastic as you might expect. Essentially the more you change you create exponentially more work for yourself.

Keep it simple and learn really.

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I've searched around to buy arm and leg bags so that I can carry stuff in them like in death stranding, but I just couldn't find anything. How can I make something similar? I could always just duct-tape some belt-bags on my arms and legs but there has to be a more convenient way to wrap it around the arms and legs. For anyone wondering I'm giving food to old people for charity and it'd be really funny to walk around packed with bags like in the game
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Dang, shouldve read your response to the other guy about what you need this for.
Im the guy that posted the walmart containers.
Really if you need to move all those sandwichs for the elderly, you should just buy one of pic related. You could tether it to your backpack and tow it behind you. They make some with taller containers too.
I guess it'd be better to buy that, it's just that I've been playing too much death stranding lately. Thanks for the info
We''ve solved it, breh.
Backpack on your back and chest
Walmart containers on each arm
Walmart containers on each thigh
Walmart containers on each shin
Then tow the red/black box behind you and if you can you can buy another and push it in front of you
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It's time to end world hunger
this faggot....

Is there money in 3D printing things and selling them at the local flea market? I’m certified in CAD and love making things. I would think making symbols and or useful items like custom coasters for drinks might sell pretty well. I’ve also got an idea for a cheap knife sharpener.
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I made a bit of money selling retro game display holders on eBay but it's barely enough to justify the time and didn't come close to covering the cost of the printer
Those baby Yoda figurines aren’t going to print themselves.
Yeah I think copyright infringement is the only way you could sell prints to normies. Local sports team stuff, Calvin pissing on a different team, etc
>Is there money in 3D printing things and selling them at the local flea market?
Try it. Does anyone buy your stuff? Product costs for 3d printing are relatively low, so it's not a huge investment.
>>I made a bit of money
>>didn't come close to covering the cost of the printer

then.... you didnt make any money at all, then did you?

My god you 3d printer peeps are retarded.

Could someone help identify the name of this color? Standard low-pile residential
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
White with a shot of black. Order it this way so they know you are a pro.
Navajo White
Its Cream short pile

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What is this?
The steel section compresses into the brass against an internal spring
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Well given that you can't turn the screw on a center punch we have to consider the possibility that you're too much of a wuss to push hard enough to operate the center punch.
It is a scribe, handle is missing. loosen the screw and the tip is pushed out by the spring, tighten it back down to lock it and you have enough new metal to sharpen it back up good as new. The screw end to the collar would just friction fit into a wooden handle. If memory serves this sort was used for laying out in stone work, draw your lettering into the headstone before you go at it with a chisel.
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Here's the tip.
Thanks for the info
seems pretty stupid, just use a ruler or guess

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What is the best way to convert low power devices that use one or two alkaline cells to lithium (3,6-3,7V)?
I converted my keyboard to lithium by putting 2 diodes in series to drop voltage closer to what 2xAAA would put out but i calculated 70% efficiency at best.
Keep in mind that i'm not talking about power hungry devices where using NiMhs actually makes a lot of sense. Using Nickel based batteries is kinda stupid considering their high self discharge rate, lithium on the other hand are perfect for that. Using buck converters also doesn't make sense (at least to me) since they would draw more power than device itself (around 1mA for devices, or few uA in standby).
My mouse uses 2, I have 4 NiMH... Just swap em and by the time they'll go weak, the other pair will be charged enough to be useable
Oh,I forgot to tell you that it takes me 3 months to get them weak enough to be unusable...NiMH are a great all rounder.

Btw, you also get AA and AAA that are actually lithium ion and are charged from usb
why dont you just get lithium AAAs?
Just use diodes and resistors. If you buy rectangular lipo cells that match the AAA slot, you actually get more battery volume, combined with the higher space efficiency of lipo, you come out ahead in total useful capacity anyway.
Because those are non recheargeable, unless you think of 10440 but they are still higher voltage than NiMhs.
Yea, not bad, but you lose most of the capacity on self discharge (if you don't use it as much). I got month of usage more with same capacity lipo battery, if i could get that efficiency up it would be even better. Nickel based batteries lose more capacity over first night than lithium does in a year. My AAs lost half of their capacity and internal resistance went crazy after i forgot about them for a year.
That's pretty much same config i use, however i lose quite a bit of power on those diodes, if i there was smarter way to do it i would get a lot more of usable power. But as you said i still get more usable capacity and its much lighter.

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