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Gym equipment is impossible to find so I want to get my own weight plates made for me at a local fabricator shop.

What is the best way to go about this?

I don't want cheap materials. The plates have to be the same diameter and width to within 2mm. The weight has to be within 200 grams.
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
This is pretty normal for weight plates

5%-10% tolerance
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This. I did exactly this. Cnc plasma. 25mm and 15mm scrap plate they had lying around.
Make them from depleted uranium
I just want 5kg, 2.5kg, 1.25kg plates so diameter would be pretty small (<200mm)

Do I contact CNC shops or fabrication shops and just say I want to cut plates and hope they have some large scrap plates lying around?
>Gym equipment is impossible to find
Where the fuck do you live?

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Hey! I've gotten myself a job at a food delivery place, and I noticed that the concrete walls at the parking spaces have plenty of towball damages. I wanted to make a good impression to the company and give a suggestion how to fix it.
What I thought was that I could: fill it with plaster and then paint a nice strip along side the wall and somehow put some protective (foam??) items around the areas which were damaged to prevent any future damage.
I also want to note, such as a close bullet spread on a target sign it has a very close proximity where people back and damage the wall so a circular cut idea might work here.
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
I need you to listen very carefully to me
Show up on time, do only what is asked of you when it is asked of you, then go home.

You make a good impression by being reliable
When you go above and beyond, its not making a "good impression", its putting a target on your back in which you will get exploited.
Bosses will give you as much rope as you will take to hang yourself with, and before you know it you will be doing double the amount of work for the same pay as your peers
And it does NOT give you more job security, because the other guy who doesnt go above and beyond is still reliable and not a headache to the boss, he gets whats asked of him done.
It will NOT suddenly make you "rise to the top" like its the 1950s and youve worked into becoming the CEO from the mailroom.

There is a time and certain jobs where over the top ambition and work ethic can be beneficial, but this is not one of those times.
But what if I want to invest my time and future to become something in this company? Is what you're saying still valid? When is the proper time and place for doing that "extra"? How can I ensure that I won't be exploited?
Thank you for this warning.
>Is what you're saying still valid?
That guy is a lazy shit, and if you are a lazy shit, listen to him. If you actually are a decent person and have some intelligence then you will do fine in any decent work environment, and you'll know what sort of people you are dealing with in a matter of days.

I say he's a lazy shit because of his comment that "you will be doing double the amount of work". Think about that for a moment. Unless you are doing piecework and they pay you 1/2 for each piece you deliver, he's saying that he goes to work each day with the primary goal to fuck off as much as possible without getting fired. Sadly, many people have this attitude, and never learn that the day goes by a lot faster if you just do your job, instead of sneaking around and trying to avoid doing anything.
>But what if I want to invest my time and future to become something in this company?
You need to understand what you can realistically get out of this job
Is this a family owned business where you interact with the owner everyday, and forsee yourself becoming best friends where you eventually get a great promotion and are in a great position of power making lots of money out of the goodness of his heart. And he isnt going to hire his personal friends and family over you for the position? And he isnt going to hire someone with a degree over you for the position?
It almost never happens, and if its not some small family owned business it sure as fuck isnt going to happen.
People get hired on credentials, and in some cases because of relationships

That is rhetoric pushed from the 1950s as a way to get young guys to commit into dead end jobs and overwork themselves, just to get into some bullshit "managerial role" with a marginal pay increases where its just enough money not to quit, while the "experience" on the job is worthless so you cant just quit and go elsewhere to make the same amount of money easily. Its a trap because you got comfortable and now have bills to pay so you have backed yourself into a corner.
Anyone who will take you on right now as a young guy with no experience is not the type of place to grow into making decent money
(unless its an apprenticeship in a trade which is a slightly different story)

You need a clear end goal so you can make a clear path to get there
If "being a manager at the food delivery service making $5 over minimum wage" is your end goal, then by all means work yourself to death there.
To actually make decent money in the modern world, you need to treat jobs as a stepping stone
You get several years experience relevant to your field at an entry level place, you put out applications and get hired for a large increase in salary at places that wouldnt touch a clueless 18 year old.
You need a clear idea of what you want to accomplish in your career
If not youll look back and realize you blew 10 years working at this shit place and have no real experience and nowhere to go if you get fired.
Look at all the 35 year olds trying to get into trades on this board right now who fell into the trap.

At least with the trades and apprenticeships you have the chance of making serious cash without hopping around, or you can go start your own shop or be your own contractor after 10 years.

Doing what you are told when you are told to do it is not being lazy.
Its the contract you have with your employer, you going out of your way to go above and beyond isnt in the contract. No good deed goes unpunished
Some places a promotion will actually give you a large increase in pay, and will be a very valuable thing on your resume. You know exactly what those places are, they are the jobs you are trying to get into in the first place, they arent your entry level garbage. And even then when you get your dream job, it may or may not be worth the physical and mental stress it adds.
In a lot of places (and every entry level place) the promotion is a pittance with a huge increase in workload, and means nothing to your actual career.
He needs to understand this and not fall prey to the "if you work harder than everyone else, youll be successful" that so many young guys get fucked over with.

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what are popular prototyping tools pre 3d printing or 3d software era? something soft and easy like papercraft and maybe blue tack mold?

how are they measured, defined, and come to be?

specificaly gunplas and toys realy thx
do they just carry it from illustrations or was there like papermache stuff or anything before??

resin casting
ah yeah how do you design the mold then? piece by piece?
Polymer clay can assume just about any shape you want to and is perfect for molding.
From there you can cast in all sorts of materials.

Vacuumforming is another technique that was most famously used for the storm trooper helmets in Star Wars.

Resin casting is still popular in the age of 3d printing, for small product runs that are still too big to individually 3d print everything.
Oh yes, I also forgot, epoxy putty can be really great when you work with small models like toys and figurines.

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Is it possible to use a marks generator to make a far superior coil gun? Also sorry of wrong board, just wasn't sure where to put this
You can make coil guns, and rail guns, but in my experience it's way faster, cheaper, and more effective to learn how to cast spells.
or 3d print slingshot
What matters is the released energy and it is still limited to the charge in the capacitors just like coil gun designs that charge high voltage capacitors with a transformer or voltage pump.

You can do the math yourself with E = 1/2 C*V^2.

I've looked at simple diy Marx generators and they use something like 10 50nF 4kV ceramic capacitors so you'll get at best 10*0.5*50nF*4kV^2 = 4J.
A common photoflash electrolytic capacitor has something like 2000uF 360V: 0.5*2000uF*360^2 = 129.6J
you can't say the gun word here on /diy/

How much could I save making this myself.
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
that "upholstering" can be done with just a staple gun
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I was going to do one of those, ordered some fabric from china. I was expecting some rugged fabric but all I got was some thin almost see through crap, so I made it out of textured melamine board.
I spent like 50€ including the lamp and USB nightstand charger.
You probably can save 40$ or even 50$, you can buy cheap wood since it's not going to be visible, but you've got to buy the foam padding and some decent fabric.
I don't think sewing is required. 99% of those are just staples.

Here's how I'd do it:
1. Buy wood panel and cut it into 3 boards (or buy 3 separate boards).
2. Buy inch and 1/2 thick foam, using the boards as a template, cut the foam, glue the foam to the boards.
3. Buy and cut some fabric and wrap it tightly around the wood and foam, staple on the back.
4. Buy some wood and paint it black, use it as the legs, screw the legs to the board, using 2 screws per board to the wall. You could also make it floating with some kind of french cleat system, which would save you even more money. In my case I made some 3D printed matching supports which seem to hold ok.
$25-to infinity for materials depending on quality and location. Cheap way, a 8' 2x4 and two 2x6, thin cotton bating, fabric, paint. Only really need a handsaw and a hammer to make it, but upholstery is easier with a staple gun.
>for no good raisin
At most $94.99

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The bird shit will seal and mask that.
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glad someone saw it before mods got it

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Did I just waste 25 dollars? Also book thread
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Why are you guys here? This is 4chan. The kid is pissed that his daddy broke his own belongings instead of being a curator for the museum of Anon evidently. You want feels? Go to Reddit. Damn.
>Why are you guys here? This is 4chan.
Explain what this means please
It means stop liking what he doesn't like.
Got a link for this?
you did good.
now collect the Time Life cook book set.
many of the recipes are dated, but are absolutely fascinating.

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Arduinos, atmegas, esp32, bluepill, shit man, ever raspberries, we are all inclusive

Microcontroller general, making leds blink since 2004
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I love how you can't even name one fucking sensor to give any kind of back up to your case. Like what are you talking about, a potentiometer? LIDAR? You probably don't even know what a sensor IS.
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>assemble shit
>upload code to attiny
>doesn't work
>2 hours later
>scream louder
>finally figure it out
>when you use pins from A branch you call them PA1 PA2 etc, but if you use B branch and call the pins PB1 PB2, the code compiles and uploads fine, but commands like digitalWrite(PB1, HIGH) do nothing, you actually have to do pin_pb1 instead
words cannot describe how fucking livid i am right know, i want to find the cunt who came up with this piss poor design a kneel on his neck for 8m46s

i am just so tired.... so tired.... ;_;
its Port A and Port B, you should learn about general mcu memory and peripheral architecture
you are the shit one bro
It's been a long time since I did AVR asm, but yeah, GPIO access is usually going to be different between Arduino C vs asm on more than a few MCUs.
For digitalWrite etc, its a sort-of enum which refers to each pin individually, from a .h for the specific board you are using, which is then looked up in a table. This is done in mbed as well as Arduino.
In asm, you have each port as a register like PORTA, or PORTB, and have to mask out the bits. Depending on the MCU, the port register may be 8 bits, 16 bits, or 32 bits. Being able to access a single GPIO pin as a single memory address is uncommon. And when not using Arduino, that's also how you do it in C, and is a lot faster than using digitalWrite... because there's not that table lookup and shit all the time.
So basically you are raging that Arduino's convenient but slow GPIO mapping isn't there when you don't use the Arduino IDE and libraries.

Starting a bathroom reno today. Have basically no idea what im doing. Going to go turn off the water shortly and cap off pipes, then start removing things. Plumber is coming next week when the room is stripped to move everything. Ive scheduled two weeks full time to complete it, how likely is it that i dont?
46 replies and 16 images omitted. Click here to view.
You can get wood look tiles. Yeah you may run into an issue you can solve. I have the money to get someone in if i need to, and my dad is a trades person so i can always fall back on his support if i need. If its not you only bathroom then its a lot less time constrained. If youre like me and it is your only bathroom then expect to spend a considerable amount on short term accomodation.
Finished off the floors today and moving onto the walls tomorrow. Tiling is hard brehs. Hoping the walls are easier.
Running out of steam lads. Coming up to the two week mark and my body aches. Im /fit/ so i didnt think this would be an issue but at this point im tired. I booked an extra week at the hotel cause theres no way im getting the rest of the tiling done by saturday.
Godspeed lad, can't spell DIY without U :)
Managed to tile the largest wall in the bathroom today. Photo was taken in the dark as i was cleaning the tiles. Will provide a better one tomorrow. Have a feeling that i may have not ordered enough tiles. Gonna do some quick math tomorrow and order some more if need be. Went for 1 hour drive this morning to get a new cutting wheel for the tile cutter i have which has improved my workflow dramatically i expect to get the remainder of the shower done tomorrow.

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'm looking to run an Ethernet cable through two windows from the bottom floor up into the top. Can I get some advice for this? I'm wondering if a window cable like this will work https://www.amazon.com/Ancable-Ethernet-Through-Outdoor-Coupler/dp/B07GRR4SWP?th=1

but i'm not sure if it can go through two windows.
Here are some pics of the situation

can't drill anywhere.
13 replies omitted. Click here to view.
you could try to run in behind the wall. Look for a coax cable jack, remove plate to see if there is space. If you're house is really brick, there should be a gap. Us a fishing line or some other thin but strong string with a weight like a fishing lead, or a mini plumb bob, and lower the line gradually until you reach the apx distance to the next level. Double check that the line is straight by swinging it slightly until it comes to rest again. Tie off.
Go downstairs, locate any wall jack that is near where the fishing line is. If you're lucky, it might be right next to it. If so have someone swing the line from up top, and see if you can grab it.

If there is no jack where the weight would be, measure carefully from the wall, and double check, and cut a small hole in the wall for an rj45 jack. Once the hole is there, and you can grab the fishing line, go back upstairs and tie plenum rated rj45 cable to the fishing line, and back downstairs, pull it through. Once the jr45 is through, place some Ethernet jacks on the two holes, upstairs and downstairs.
Pro tip: leave the fishing line attached to the plenum rated cabling, incase you need to run someother cable in the future like fiber, and leave about an extra foot looped in the wall incase you mess up the Ethernet jacks.

I used to do wiring of houses back in 2004/5 when people didn't like wifi's limited range. I just redid my network with fiber the same way during the lockdowns.
You absolutely can't drill? Drill anyways, when you move out cover it with spackle and paint and the landlord will be none the wiser.
If running Ethernet is giving you troubles just get PowerLine. I got a shitty one for 20 bucks and it just works (it's 100Mbps but that's generally enough and more expensive ones give better speeds).
Here everyone has lightning rods, such a cheap way to keep your house from burning down. Are you really sure that houses in your area don't have them? I bet you just don't see them because you aren't looking for them.
Cheaper, easier and faster to use Power Line, unless you already have the cable, spackle and the right colour of paint.

Has anyone every thought to make an open source hardware power tool brand? I'm getting tired of all these proprietary battery systems
23 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
you're missed the point completely. This is about intl. trade.
who's that?
the only megacorp that cares about people at least a little bit
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In Poland, as we were commies, every tool handbook/manual had detailed blueprints and often also a bill of materials, so you could take apart the tool safely yourself and replace the broken part.
This used to be somewhat open-source.

Now with market economy all companies deteriorated to either single-use tools or pay-us-bazillion-for-repair model.
I don't think what you want will ever happen, because it's against raising money, and that's the only thing that counts now.

(pic taken from a drill manual: http://celma.com.pl/wp-content/uploads/IO_PRCrS_FEN_09_07_2015.pdf)
European Union

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Do Euros have what would be an equivalent to a Harbor Freight? Or do they have to just buy cheap power tools at Aldi?
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French here. My 14k people town has 4 stores. Two are more geared toward contractors, they do mostly construction materials and some top of the line tools. I don't shop here unless I need something very specific the other stores don't have.
The two others are for homeowners and DIYers.
Mr Bricolage has more diverse stuff (art and craft, gardenning, decoration) and generally has higher end products. The cheapest power tools you'll find here will be their own brand at mid range prices.
Meanwhile Bricocash has a lot of Einhell and cheap noname chinese stuff, but no really expensive top of the line tools. If I wanted an angle grinder for 20€ I'd go here (I just checked online, apparently they have one for 13€).

What store you'll find will depend of where you are in France exactly, but I guess the situation will be similar everywhere as there always will be demand for both high end and cheap stuff.
This. Adverts is great. I bought some tools recently from Woodies. They're pretty crappy but with a 3 year warranty I'm not too worried.
Also WWS have a decent selection and prices aren't too bad. Bought a plasma cutter from them yesterday, 500 bucks.
My boomer neighbor grew up in the Azores and I’m pretty sure he didn’t have TV through the 70s.
>My boomer neighbor grew up in remote islands that focused their economy on agriculture, during a time the country was under strong dictatorship
Things boomed up from the mid 70's onward, when the government was overthrown, but really, back then Portugal was the exception to Europe's standards at the time, and until they did go down in 1974, our leaders put great effort in keeping people as stupid and uninformed as possible.

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I'm making this heater shield, I'm not going for a 1-1 museum replica but something I can play to beat the shit out of my friends
I believe it yellow pine
According to my little research they had something to cover the wood and most people say it's canvas
The pictures are from a couple days ago and I already refined it a lot more

My problem is, should I glue the lino cloth to the shield and then put gesso to make the canvas of should I stretch the lino over it and then apply the gesso

Is all glued down the nails that aren't holding leather or cloth were just there because I don't have enough clamps
Is 25x 33inch and around half inch thick
Weights around 4kg
Sorry for mixed measurements
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raw hide. it still has all of its tannins that are usually removedfor regular leather. that lets it stretch out and becomes more plastic when wet. when you stretch it as you attached it with nail or pin, when it drys its shrinks back down. making a super tight bond and squeezing your boards together.
that's the viking linden wood story. that they would bring 3 shields to a battle and that they purposefully wanted a pulpy soft grain wood. In America, out closest wood would be Bass wood, just one step above balsa. its super light and very very easy to plane down flat into planks, but for the practical everyday wall hanger, let alone reenactor, its down right fragile.

fun fact, the iceland law did have specific rules about shield building, probably to make them easier to buy and source in numbers for war, but the actual archeological remains don't actually comply with those guidelines. it seems like the common guy just made his own to his own tastes. or that they made specific weird ones for graves and burials, but that just seems unlikely to me. if every guy had to have 3 shields on him, then i would simply toss one of those in the grave instead of making a new different one. I bet you that a lot of guys didn't like that splinter feature, because they didn't actually like fighting all that much and wanted to save the money in building new shield very time you asshole lord wanted to call you out to stand around getting rocks thrown at you.
Thanks for the help, I decided to finish this one and have it as a wall hanger or something
Within the next month I'll make a new one using what you told me, thanks anon, pretty cool
get some rawhide and have a play with that aswell.
soak stretch on tack in place and let dry.
drys hard as hell.
very durable.
you just need to find somewhere that sells it in sheets.
The real shields I've gotten my hands on tend to be very thin. (OK that I've been allowed to turn over while wearing gloves and being very careful)

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Any tips on where to look, and what to avoid?

Should I try to buy the inverter, batteries and PV modules separately? Or as a kit?
buy used panels, get a decent mppt inverter, get proper bat trees.
and size it properly
that pic there with 4 smol panels is good for almost nothing, would run a fridge only and maybe one light for a little while.
I have a 600w system and it runs just network comms, laptop and monitor, room lights, and phone charging, I can maybe watch youtube till about 5 hours past sundown before the monitor cuts out, 100ah battery.
If i drain it one night it wont fully charge during the day about half the year.
This is really good information for people thinking solar is some magic shit.

You need a huge grid of panels to do what you want with a solar system. And that doesn't even touch the expense of electrical storage or infrastructure to make it all work properly
For most people Tesla is the cheapest, especially their battery storage. Off grid though is cheaper diy.
>as a kit?
When it breaks you will be the maintenance company. So kits don't make much sense here and when you do find kits they may be memes or pitched to extract money from the inexperienced - You need to understand all elements of the system sufficiently to be able to maintain it. Your question suggests your thinking about this kinda stuff isn't quite where it needs to be yet.

If you want to start out small, simple and safe, look at running a 12v system. You can wire it all up yourself, maintenance is low, and there's plenty of info out there. The down-side is you have to keep your power demands low. However, this can be a good stepping-stone to deploying a bigger mains-voltage solar setup in a few years time.
Really depends whats available in your area, at least where I am there's a lot of solar panel installers who do decent work and will either sell you a kit at competitive prices or the whole kit installed, done in a day type dealy-o. If you know how to do the install yourself, what to buy, what will work together and in no real hurry you can probably save some cash by shopping around, bashing the fuck out of people on quotes and finding the best value gear.
Personally I didn't go full off-grid with the batteries as it was going to be quite a lot of power and very expensive, so sort of went half way with a 6000W array and a large solar water heater because if there's anything all the women in the house want its a lot of hot water all to themselves. Plus it doesn't get very cold where I am so it'll always work. To get the most of it though you've really got to hammer on it when the suns up- all the washing machines, dryers, dish washers, aircon etc go full blast through the day and we just go easy on it during the night. That does seem to more or less mean I'm not really spending anything + excess back into the grid sold back to the supplier.
The end result is fuck all for power bills, which used to run up to $750-1000 a 1/4 and I figure in about 2 years its more or less paid for itself

But its worth a look in if your climate will support solar, some places simply wont

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The thread where you ask all your welding, blacksmithing and what ever questions related to metal.

>forge vs torch
>what is the difference between high and low carbon steel
>where can I get a cheap "anvil"
>How to improve my welding
>how to get rid of rust

And much more questions
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teaching myself to weld with a little project. Haven't gotten the hang of it yet (FCAW because cheap and just a DIYer) and it's mostly horribly ugly but solid enough. So far this is the only bead I'm not completely ashamed of.
Lmao that's better then my welds
the rest of mine would make you feel better, trust me
Are you able to get into forgeweld temperatures with charcoal or you need coal for that?
I doubt it but let's see :)

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