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Sup /diy/, I have a simple question. I've im living in a camper or van, but I want to enjoy a 650W gaming PC and monitor for a few hours every day, what would be the most economical way to power it if I'm parked away from a power outlet, say if I'm parked at a Walmart parking lot or somewhere out in the wilderness on the outskirts of a town? Would this even be doable?
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focus first on making your gaming pc a more reasonable wattage.
Current pc parts are way past their efficiency points, you could save a ton of power while losing very little performance, see picrel
also with a picopsu you can connect your pc directly to the batteries which will save you some watts
see also >>2718851 but the last doomer crap
picopsu is what you look for
atleast 1000w inverter
aux battery of atleast twice the amp-hours you need if its lead-acid, lifepo is much more efficent so you can stick with the estimated amp-hours.
and they will for your setup in 12V be around 60ish ampere, to play for one hour you need a 120ah lead acid battery or a 60ah lifepo. increased ah capacity gives longer runtime obviously.
for charging get a smart dc/dc charger hardwired straigh to your starting battery, it will itself sense when the engine is running and start charging the aux battery but never draw anything from the starting battery when the engine isnt running so you will always be able to start it. add solar panels with a dedicated solar charger hardwired as you see fit.
lol no such thing, every dollar you waste on poorfag solutions is a waste and could have been saved to do it properly instead.

I bought a factory reman 1600w inverter genny off fleabay with a 2 year warrantee for 300 shipped that came with paperwork and factory packaging.
150 used is realistic.
>Obviously give yourself 15%-25% headroom on both.
When looking at battery power, you want to double your kWh. So you'd need 1200 Wh if you want to run a rig at 300 W for 2 hours.
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I run a microwave with a fake sinewave inverter, second battery and solar. Laptop makes a lot more sense for a van though.

Why is visible and accessible piping not the standard for houses?
For what possible reason would you want to hide all your electrical and plumbing behind drywall?
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This right here. Running new wiring isn't something that is done often and you don't need to damage wall in most cases. I've ran ethernet through my house last year and only wall where I had to cut a hole in (other than the outlet) was the exterior wall because the cable was hanging up on the insulation.
> trench
> not outhouse so no u-trench nor plumbing
> not using jeffries tubes in 2020s
get a real job
why would you ever have to open the wall if its designed to German perfection?

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if I want to put a tiny house on my land (for myself), but I don't want to update my septic system, do I have any other options?
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>shit in the trash is 100% legal.
Yes but counties still require septic systems.
How can tenants feel comfortable raising children when there's a gooner staring out of the windows of the backyard shack?
families are goon positive with their children in 2023.
Depends on the state. Outhouses are legal in some states

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Long story short, I got offered a job in controls engineering coming from a different field (IT), but was still on a different contract. Seemed like a good gig and was from a somewhat personal reference (I have some family who know the owner), but had a ton of health and life shit get in the way of starting there (I took some classes for them during my contract despite telling them I needed at least 4 months to finish out my current situation and contract) and keeping in touch with them constantly - never got paid for them, but whatever. However, now, I kind of want the job back and its months later, but the position is still available. Should I just move on here? I could probably explain my situation a bit and at least come to some type of understanding for some ease of mind, even though I may not get the opportunity back. I feel like I fucked up anons and the industry around me seems hard to find people.
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I get you, but here's the thing: First God says 'No.' Then they pervert the spirit of the order, and do it anyway, saying they are not. That rabbi's decision or group of rabbis that argued, that the perversion was ok, is in the talmud. They then unironically won't reach your common-sense conclusion, of using the water as a boundary, because 'it's tradition' (the perversion), and because they have to fulfill an urge to exist in a way that is separate from every other community of normal, less-inbred, less-self-traumatized (infant genital mutilation) people. Also, to keep up the inbreeding.

Because God naturally made the water around the island that way, they have this perversion urge (stemming from the inbreeding, mutilation trauma and enforced by the ritualism), to erect something unnatural, to say they are separate from and above god's creation. Basically the string or wire is a giant middle-finger to the god they claim to worship.

Now, throw in that the 'god' is a god formed from stories of a group of 'gods', creator alien beings, actual superior hominids. Now you have seething jealousy against that 'god'. The stories are ripped off from earlier people, and somewhat twisted to fit the narrative that supports, their ritualized penis torture of their own young males. The stories are irrelevant to their psychosis, but an exposition of them. What really matters is they get to mutilate the genitals of their male newborns. Ultimate cuck rage.
huh. So that's what that button does on my oven. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sabbath_mode
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>randomly laggy keyboard.
>various kosher certs and agencies overseeing programing for a button on an oven.
Do they really believe God is that autistic? If they do, wouldn't God mind if his chosen people worked around his rules with such blatant trickery?
>So what happens
Short answer is nothing.
Longer answer is that they have to atone for the misdeed on Yom Kippur.

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Post your benches, fav. designs, and modifications.
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Calipers are like this too, there’s nothing between $15 chinesium rebrands and $100+ Mituyo or Starret. Where is the serious hobbyist tier?

Volunteer as a research assistant and steal some shit from the lab.
I think I'll go the eBay path, something super sturdy from the 80s and put in a LED bulb.
TIL even Jews have workbenches
This is kind of a work bench, There was some shelves I have been looking at for my 3d printers, and I came across one that piqued my interest to use as a "work bench"
>pic related.

Bigger shelves that let me customize more than expected. the shelf boards were thin as expected, they have these z supports that you can put 1 or more on a shelf, so I planned to double stack the shelf board and have 3 z supports. Should I screw the boards together to give me a more solid feel? I plan to use counter sunk heads. I also plan to put a esd mat for the top as well. theres a third board on the tabletop that I plan to secure along side the back and put "Honeycomb Storage Wall" on it to organize some shit.

I was mainly look for more room and it was getting annoying filling up my computer desk with project shit.
>And how the hell do you decide what features (like those types with clamp holes, vices, inlaid t-track rails, integrated routers and miter saws) and setup if you're a general hobbiest?
For a general hobbyist, you want something big, say 6'x4', on wheels and with one vise. Put everything else on it's own base on wheels or something you can easily pull out from under the bench and setup.

You also want a bench hook or some kind of sacrificial board that you work on and don't fuck up your bench.

Don't sweet about "optimal setup" because as you said, you're doing this as a hobby.

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I followed some plans I found online and made a bench seat with 2x4s and I'm pretty happy with the result and learned some things along the way.

What can I do next to improve my woodworking ability?
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If you can't keep a drill bit straight in a hole that's already 6" deep, you have bigger problems.
Yeah. Problems like "reality."
anyone make their own tools? currently making a lathe lol
Are you really trying to compare precision microdrilling through graphite to putting a .5x12" bore into wood?
Yes, make the rail a single track, convex or square, and put some brush weather stripping on the bottom of the door. Ball bearings make pretty good track wheels

I'm really sick of the weird prejudice some guys on here have about reusing nylon nuts. No, a used nylon nut is not "looser" than a new one. This is a myth. No matter how many times a nylon nut is used, no matter how big the bolt is, it does not affect the tightness. And honey, you little bolt isn't going to leave it "loose" either.
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>17 g
you're not supposed to tightened past the nylon?
be able to, by hand.
>Do you see that blue stuff? It is basically blue Loctite.

uhm.. its a nylon ring. made of nylon. not loctite you fucking retard
Genuinely not sure whether to take this thread seriously or pass it off as a shitpost, well done.

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My utility has absolutely asinine requirements for "modifying" service, and I want to upgrade my electric panel. Instead of pulling a permit and playing their bureaucratic game, what's stopping me from shorting the two hots together before the main breaker? I'm assuming there's some sort of overcurrent protection on their side, and I could do the work while they take their sweet time unfucking it. Will this work? Or am I going to set my house on fire?
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>what's stopping me from shorting the two hots together before the main breaker?
Why wouldn't you just pull the meter before you start work?
>Why wouldn't you just pull the meter before you start work?
Because to do that, you usually have to remove "anti-tampering" tag that's on the meter. Those tags have a unique number/code on them and you have to cut the tag to get it off. So when the electric company comes by to check/read the meter, they'll know whether or not that tag has been fucked with, and if it has you're probably going to have some problems.
i've done it
Actually I did the harder method of carefully bending up the shit out of the tag and the band and I was able to slide it off, and then put it back.
it was pretty obvious it was fucked with because the metal was all bent and sratched up
actually the meter went bad later and they came out to replace it and I just watched as they cut the tag off and pulled off the band and chucked both in a trash bin without looking at it and slapping on a new band and tag.
i think it only comes in play when there is an investigation due to discrepancies or sntiches or niggers in appartments moving the meters around to pay less money on their unit
>The date on the panel is 2020

That is not a panel from 2020

If theres not a monetary reason for the tech in the field to give a fuck, they probably wont.

And even if they did start asking questions, you just arent legally obligated to answer them or let them in your house, even if some anon posts another retarded image rather than contributing to anything in response to this reply too. So why would they? Knowing your rights is important, and they only own to the meter.
If they accuse someone of fucking with it, and that person claims the question was asked because of one of the 9 federally protected categories you cant discriminate against, doesnt matter what really happened, the company is defending itself against liability it really doesnt want to.
I bet the tech isnt sposed to ever confront anyone about that, if anything pass it up the line.

And if theres no monetary reasn to pursue it, no one will.
Problems that are solved with apathy rarely have other solutions attempted.

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Previous thread:>>2690224

Here we discuss microcontrollers (MCUs), single board computers (SBCs), and their accessories, such as Atmel mega and tiny AVRs (Arduinos), PICs, ARM boards such as blue/black pill STM32, ESP8266/32s, RP2040, Raspberry Pi, and others.

For general electronics questions (power supplies, level shifting, motor driving, etc.) please ask /ohm/.

>where can I find verified quality microcontrollers and other electronic sensors or parts

>but that's too expensive
aliexpress.com (many parts here are fake, particularly specific parts out of stock in the above sites)

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>F103 sucks
I'm going to be running literally blink and basic motor controls for the first tests. Does the variant really matter?
i want to build a machine that solves the rubik's cube. But firstly i need a way to get the cube's scramble from the color of the stickers. I think that getting the scramble is one of the hardest parts of the project, and i feel like simple computer vision would be the easiest way where it just gets the color of each sticker in the 3x3 grid of stickers on each face (and it does that on 5/6 facds). So what is the cheapest (and most available) camera module that would do the trick. And also i am open to other ways of getting the scramble. Thanks
also what model motor/servo would be suitable since pretty much only 90/180 degree turns will be done
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Ok I will have to say, that guy is a much more proficient coder than I am. That said, it looks like it should be doable to translate the code across. Swapping the pinout around is trivial and left to the reader.

The first thing we see being defined is the MCU frequency. Considering the tiny13 uses 4.8MHz and the tiny25 uses 8MHz, I doubt this is critical. Then theres:
>timer interrupt mask
>timer overflow interrupt vector
>EEPROM size
>ADC voltage reference
>ADC clock prescaler
All of these should be relatively easy to find in the corresponding datasheet. Though I'll note that the EEPROM is handled differently in the tiny1 series compared to the older series, they're in different address spaces. So you'll likely have to find all the code that makes calls to EEPROM and replace them with corrected code that you copy-paste from examples or whatever.
Also, considering it's only asking for a few register names that are different between the tiny13 and the tiny25, it's probably hard-assigning all the register names that are the same between the 13 and 25, making the code minimally portable outside the old series of AVRs. You may well have to completely rewrite it. If nothing else, I'd attempt importing it into Atmel Studio or whatever and seeing if it has a method for porting projects.

Instead of robot arms or whatever, I'd just have a table that can grip the cube with 12 fingers, three on all sides of the cube. If the cube is in a fixed baseline position it's trivial to just have a little RGB colour sensor beneath all nine sections on the base, and to flip it around to read all 6 faces. Pic related. Blue are the fingers that pull together or apart with something simple like a solenoid or bowden cable or whatever, pink are the colour sensors, and brown are gear surfaces used to rotate the cube faces via stepper motors or whatever. Not sure how you'd have gears for X and Y at the same time though, maybe you'd just have one plus a turntable.
Bistro poster here: Thanks v much anon I will give it a crack

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Previous Edition: >>2615694

Question of the Thread: Is Silver or Gold better?
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It doesn't...? I mean most people use wax but you CAN burnout a cast like that with a PLA core.
Pretty much

Just looking at options currently, trying to go the cheapest/easiest option with what I have around. I just knew they had that dipping shit, which is well beyond my price range so the alternative is like you said.
A new ring to bump the thread
You also need to form the flower petals instead of just flat. Engraving + Form will take you to the next level.
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Quaterny Phase Diagram!?!? Glad I am into metals and not glasses.

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I bought picrel for very chep from an old car enthusiast, since his son can't drive it and the clutch cylinder died.

I want to repair it, but I need good advice on every tool I need.

I need good jacks to work under the car, probably an air compressor and its relative tools, good torque wrench and sockets, pliers etc...

Can you tell me which brands/tools y'all use?

I live in Italy, so I use the metric system
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oh and another little trick that i found, ussually you will use duck tape for temporary fastening and "paper" tape (not sure how it is called in english) to protect areas from paint, but there are situations where tape doesnt cut it for some reason, in this case hot glue from a hot glue gun is a very handy temporary fastener/sealer as it is very easily pealed off when dry
if you dont need to remove the wheels while working under it you can make wheel blocks yourself from thick'n sturdy wood screwed together to the desired height.
Idk if you are the same guy, but THANK YOU SO MUCH.

Really, you spent so much time writing all of this for an anonymous person on 4chan, I'll be forever grateful :)
not same guy, but here is my tool tips
dont focus too much on brand and quality at first, it just cost more and eventually you end up not affording it. well, the tool you could afford and therefore have will always be better than the tool you cant afford and thus dont have.
there is probably some go-to cheap parts and hardware store in italy as well, here up north its the swedish based biltema that fills this role. everything they sell is just rebranded chinkshit but does its job for the diy guy (and i think i have half of their catalogue....) i looked at some of the foreign stores and its the exact same stuff they sell.
>Can you tell me which brands/tools y'all use?

I own a large Craftsman tool set i got int he 90's that was US made and i have abused it for years without breaking anything other than ratchets.

But now that Craftsman is rebadged made in China garbage i have been buying Japanese tools off Amazon. KTC, Asahi, Koken, TONE is what i have been buying lately. I am happy with all of them they seem well made and way better than the Chinese stuff.

Just keep in mind that Taiwan has the patent on ratcheting wrenches. So pretty much any name brand ratcheting wrench is going to be made in Taiwan. There are some exclusions to this like Snap-On but they use their own ratcheting mechanism and bulky af.

I have a sound-processing disorder called misophonia which basically makes noises like cars driving by on a road out a window like nails on a chalkboard for me. Makes me want to punch a hole through a wall.

So I learned the best solution to never hearing anything outside ever is to have a house inside a berm. Are these meme architectural houses or are they actually worth looking into building? I'm worried there will be constant problems with humidity and water infiltration
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Mechanically stabilized earth. Build it above grade, problem solved
You need mass and you need dampening (a dampening material between outer wall and inner walls/floors so vibrations get blocked). You need an experienced engineer and/or architect to draw up plans. I suspect Pounded Earth or ICF, insulation filled cavilty and secondary inner walls (probably SIPs).

Be warned that complete silence gives most people severe tinnitus. I'd make sure your house has air vents so you can turn on AC/fans for a slight hum.

Get the fuck out of whatever high traffic area you're in. I enjoy a pair of sordin extreme pro x's. With the gel pads and cotton covers (both of those are available through 3rd parties). SRS is the main U.S. dealer. Also, get the rear-tension version so they work with headgear.

Look into a tenspros CES device. I have a couple, including the STIMTENS. Try it out. Tenspros is cheaper. Auditory nerve sensitivity it sounds like is what you have. Not a bad thing necessarily. Opposite of being a deaf old boomer or npc.
it's called autism and it already had a thread >>2716006
It's not autism retard it's completely different

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Tell us about your robot projects, completed, active or planned
>How do I get started with robotics?
Tell us what you already know and what you want to get out of it and we will tell you what to work on, there are a range of skills required in robotics
>I want to build a bipedal robot companion, I'm new to robotics btw
Okay, just know that you're taking on one of the hardest robotics projects around, and you will likely not complete your project if it is your first try, I advise starting with something smaller, let's discuss it
>I want an AI girlfriend
Not really robotics, but because it comes up every thread...
You're basically looking at sticking various modes of AI model together
You will need:
- Large language model: start experimenting with oobabooga + a model from huggingspace
- Text to speech: mrq/ai-voice-cloning for training a model, tortoise for its faster inference if you want to use a premade
- Speech to text: WhisperX
There's a few other anons around who have worked on this kind of thing so perhaps you can collaborate


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I have a lot of servos but don't want to deal with 0'ing them and other garbage. Cam they not make a robot limb motor that has a rotary encoder (to tell angle) but no stupid lock? I know for industrial applications that's a requirement but I would much rather prefer something with more give for a sily automaton like Optimus. It would be cool to have an arduino-like easy to use platform for making androids to greet people and to other 'white monkey' jobs. The machine vision tools in python are I think sufficient to tell orientation of arms and I think using a more vision-based approach cuts out the need for a lot of sensors. We know that machines are too stupid to manage basic tasks like driving, so let's lower the bar and have some automatons like Kraftwerk.
That integrator in your webm used to be kinda cool. Then they brought in a midget general manager and sold out

But have an unprogrammed spare. 2006 Toyota Corolla, is there really nothing I can do on the cheap here?
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the fob uses rolling code. that flipper toy wont help you. a trip to the dealer it is..
How do you know it uses rolling code? I can’t seem to confirm this myself
And it’s not a ‘fob’, it’s a key like this but cut for my car. Also, I have the title but since it’s my moms car I never bothered to do an official ownership transfer so it’s still in her name, it’s not signed over. Please tell me this won’t prevent me from getting a replacement key?
the official way is to tow the car to the dealer and pay $350 for them to cut a key to code and program it to the car.
they will want proof of ownership so you would have to transfer ownership of the car or prevent a valid proof you are taking ownership like a bill of sale or some paperwork or a signed title

the unofficial way is you buy this and do it yourself cunt https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256805827971308.html
you will need an old laptop to slide the hard drive into or buy one additionally.
Mom and pop audio shop can do you cheap with a key or maybe a key chain fob that will work with any old key. You’ll save a little. I thought you could order one and figure out program on youtube but, that is only what I’ve heard.

Why aren’t hand held laser sniper guns a thing ?
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That's why you pick a wavelength that isn't influenced so much by weather. A ~4GHz maser would probably ignore water droplets pretty well, and play havoc with electronics inside any missiles or drones. Too short a wavelength (<1cm) and droplets of rail will disturb it, too long a wavelength and it won't be able to focus its energy to a tight enough point to do any meaningful damage. Not sure about clouds though, someone should post a nice graph on the absorption of MHz through THz bands in clouds.
It's dilemma our entire race faces:

We can generate more than enough power/energy. But we cant STORE said power.

There is nothing on this planet that stores more joules gram for gram than petroleum (save fissile material which is problematic and too rare for widespread commercial use)
Did you notice how that requires an entire fucking jumbo jet to store it's power supply and chiller? You all did.
>too rare
it's not rare at all, there is more than enough uranium to meet our needs
this report has details on uranium reserves at various levels of economic viability
there's a lot to be said about where the uranium actually is and the supply lines to move it into the west, but that's a whole other, non-laser, non-/diy/ thread

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