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>all basement bedrooms must have an escape window

In this area of chicago all the basements are 5' concrete wall to grade and small glass block windows above that. There's no way I could convert that to an egress.
Yet there are tons of mexican families in this area with the same kind of house that have people living in the basement and im positive they dont have escape windows. Do I just have to say to the inspector this is a rec/study room not a sleeping room?
(ignore the walls, they are all getting removed for a new project, the original was done in the 60s)
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Not op but If I was going through that trouble why not build actual stairs as opposed to fangled ladders most people can’t use
That's a not a bad idea actually. But does the door at the bottom of the stairs have to open directly to the bedroom or can it be adjacent?
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how much do you figure a 3' wide x 20' long by 7' deep walkout stair could cost?
if there is no closet it cannot be classified as a bedroom. it's a office or workout room wink wink
Because op may want the least-cost alternative, and this is for emergency only.
Also, in the city setting, space may be a premium.

Btw, I actually had my builder make one with concrete stairs on a house being built. The additional area under the eaves doubled the water caught there, which became a flood into the basement during heavy rainstorms.

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Arduino (C++) coding HALP (POKER Straight)

- Need to write bool function to determine straight hand in poker.
- return TRUE if all five cards are in numerical sequence (e.g. 3, 4, 5, 6, 7), else return FALSE.
- An Ace can come before a 2 (A, 2, 3, 4, 5) or after a King (10, J, Q, K, A)
- Straight cannot “wrap around” (i.e. Q, K, A, 2, 3).

(The values (Ace to King) of the five cards are stored in a 5-element array called cardValue and are represented by the numbers 1 (Ace) to 13 (King).)

Will think of reward for solution, ty peeps.
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you too, honestly this is making a mountain out of a molehill, but since it's the topic of the thread, I think it's fair to go in with a fine comb

I was gonna talk about how it actually gets interpreted in pseudo assembly, but I'm a bit occupied. If anyone else wants to keep the nitpicking going, feel free
Yeah I mean now that we're bff's & we're in the rabbit hole, it would all come down to how the hardware is configured right?
Let's assume we're writing the most efficient code to evaluate ten billion hands. Obviously there you wouldn't consider a case statement or at least not one that brute force checks every card, but the other loops in the thread require pre-sorting the hand right?
It might end up being a funky, multileveled, nested if statement that compares the first card to every other card once, and if they are consecutive you go to the next "level" of the nested if. This includes situation where a straight hand starts with the highest card unsorted.
But yeah to your point we need to know exactly how this processor works within its hardware. Then it would still be trial and error with the internal clock
Lmao please just stop posting you coping brainlet. It's clear you have never worked a programming job in your life.
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Im using an Adafruit Bluefeather 32u4 and it produces garbage on sending over uart, im suspecting the CTS pin floating is the cause. How to properly ground it when im powering the board by USB?

To be clear, I can receive data fine, but sending is just garbage
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managed to fix the garbage, sending just fine now, but the question still remains how to properly ground something when you are powering from usb... Now that I think about it I can just wire it to the GND pin out on the board.

Sorry for being a brainlet

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Can I build a deck on my roof to hang out on and drink beers?
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Dunno where you live, but if code isn't getting in your way, and it's not a steep roof, there are a couple ways to go. One way (which is probably the better way) is to locate the rafters below, you'll want to screw into. Then, look at some local chimneys or roof vents where they go into the roof (you'll want to replicate the way the shingles overlap for the posts of your deck). You don't want the roof to leak. Then using a flat bar (wonderbar or equivalent) carefully pry up the shingles that will be in your way. You can always replace them, but sometimes it's annoying to track down matching shingles. Then when you know where your rafters are, cut holes for 4x4 posts to go down along side the rafters. Tie in with bolts, angle brackets or at the very least, lag bolts. You'll need a minimum of 4 posts. Repeat this process for the other 3. Then, seal around the posts using whatever means you feel certain will keep the water out (ice and water, roofing cement, whatever but be certain it's sealed. Then, re-lay your shingles to seal up the roof (lay from the bottom up.

At this point you should have 4 posts sticking up out of the roof at the height or rough height you want them to be. Level them and cut if necessary. Then add on your floor joists 2 x 6 (16" on center spacing). Attach with brackets and 1 1/2" screws or screw in from the ends with 3" + screws. Once this is completed, lay deck boards (5/4 boards will work well). Space them 1/4" approximately and secure with 1 1/2" deck screws.

Don't cheap out and build a piece of shit. Buy deck screws and treated lumber. If you buy untreated stuff and use shitty drywall screws, it will collapse in no time.
I’m sure you can. I’m sure there are many ways you can sink the property value of all your neighbors homes.
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I want to do something similar to OP but I want to do it well. I have a simple single story timber frame house on posts with an A-frame roof and aluminum roofing. Roughly 1000 square feet.

I have a very tiny yard so I'd like to convert 2/3ds of the roof into flat space for growing plants, DIY shit, and hanging out with friends. The other third is where all the electric cables and whatnot attach to the house so I'd best leave it unmodified. I want to put solar panels on one side and a solar water heater on the other side, the peak of the roof is east-west so they get equal light.

Code is extremely lax for single family residences in my country so I won't have a problem with that. We get one or two snow days a year, moderate rain, a couple windstorms, and heavy earthquakes.

How do I engineer this so my house doesn't implode? My thinking is re-enforce the fuck out of where the ceiling joists attach to the verticals, then run I-beams perpendicular to the joists and make sure those are connected well as well.
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This is what my roof structure looks like. I'm in Japan if anyone has pertinent knowledge.

ITT: Onions tools
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No, it’s probably the best choice of the common contractor brands depending on your trade/focus. 5 year warranty and really good tool lineup and they make a lot of heavier duty tools where other brands want you to step up to different higher voltage batteries.
>electricity isn't fuel
My beaner coworkers would steal those so fast I wouldn't even get a chance to use them
Buy a pair of HF channellocks, some big 16” guys, and be their faces in when you catch them with your shit.
The 1st person singular of the verb ser in Castillian.

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past 4 months i have had both wheelbarrow handles snap, 2 chainsaws break, hardwood rated nails bend in softwood, pickaxes bend ect ect
cant complete any project purely due to the fact there is not even a durable "premium" option
what do i even do i feel like "a bad workman always blames his tools" is so ingrained that the Chinese manufacturers exploit it
every older guy i go to for advice on the matter says im the problem without ever having seen me work
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>but now I'm a jack off of all trades
A jack of all trades is a master of none

a jack off all trades is a master of bater
>living rural is next to illegal in my country
what shithole do you live in?
Recently I bought a Kärcher hosepipe to mow my shed.

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Please frens, it's my dream to homestead a couple dozen acres (US) with a modest home, gardens, orchards, livestock.
To those who have done this or know anything on the subject: in concise words, what do I need to know legally or otherwise? If I'm deep inawoods an hour or more from civilization, what inspector or county official would even care what I do?
Pls can someone just cut through the legalese and give me a hint as to how this is done?
Thank u
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In NE Suc county dealing with a pool permit. Can confirm 99% of inspectors are retards. This will be the last permit pulled for my property, fuck letting some asshole into my house to check a CO detector when the job is 100% outdoors. To OP look into Idaho, several counties have little to no permit requirement (other than septic which has been mentioned).
Alaska is actually full. Just build without a permit somewhere else because nobody is every going to check your land.
The owners of those buildings are untouchable.
i wonder who
>what do I need to know legally or otherwise?
Just look up the zoning for that area/lot/parcel and see if those things are permitted

Watch it,, please, Yes, Please

1. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g3jLf3vyook

2. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yc9QkXdjJZw

3. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VxZ4KgooORU

4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9iGW6Bn2fs0&t=14s

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Since 2003, asbestos has been banned as a construction material, here in the European Union. Whenever you encounter old asbestos, you can bring it to a recycling center. This makes me curious. What happens next? What are the possibilities?
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is that the same kitchen anon?
yes, from about 1971 or so, thats the old stove in the background
thanks for info, almost positive its the second kind
>hasn't seen strokeposter before
shit I'm sorry to hear it bro.
we had those in the bathroom when i was a kid. one of my favorite things to do at about 7 (so, 1988ish?) was pulling them up with a plunger. i never understood why my parents got so pissed until i got older and learned about asbestos. they weren't mad, they were afraid for my safety. wish i could tell them i get it now, but they've been gone for 25 years. huh...thanks for the pic, anon; triggered a trip down memory lane.
is it even possible to get 9x9 tiles anymore? I really like the smaller grid size so I can customize the floor pattern a bit more in smaller rooms. 12x12 is just too big sometimes
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Have some more of that green tile friend

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Previous: >>1816800

>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:
Don't ask, roll:
https://github.com/Rocheez/4chan-electronics-challenges/blob/master/list-of-challenges.png.png (embed) (embed) (embed)

>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics

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what in the goddamn fuck are you smoking
$0.0056 apiece
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you probably have to buy 10K or 100K (of the same value) to get those prices.
>minimum quantity 1,000

Are you going to order 1,000 of each E24 resistor value between 1 ohm and 1 Mohm? No. That would be ridiculous. They only cost half a cent a piece when you order 1,000 at a time. Whose the real retard here?
rewiring the basement in a 63-year-old cottage.

how often should #14 building wire be lubricated?
btw, that's $5.53 to get 1,000 of ONE VALUE of resistor at $0.00553/unit. Now multiply that by the 168 E24 values from 1Ω to 10MΩ and that's a grand total $929.04 to fully stock your parts drawer.

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Mobile edition
Old >>1813941

>New to /ham/? Read this shit!
>Your search engine of choice works well too!

>Idiot's Guide to Coax Cable

>Looking for frequencies to monitor near you?

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Don't care what you're on about. I can imagine you being some kind of scared coward that tries to misdirect when you know a reckoning is coming and your ass is grass. You being the disgrace waste of life you are, I've already won. Stay scared pussy.
get the fuck out you un-virgin
you're gay
Obvious no u lol
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there can be only one, /diy/. so who will win the ultimate battle?
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The 3/4” is a little bigger and more powerful, and if you’re using sockets that normally come in 3/4” drive, you don’t want to use adapters with impacts.

Have you tried to warranty a battery with the LSA yet?

Also the lifetime on batteries is only if you get them in kits, they give you 3 years if you buy just the battery. And everything with the LSA needs to be registered after buying it, lots of people get pissed when they find out 4 years after buying the tool.
Harbor Freight is purely for hand tools.
Ehhh, debatable

At least most of the hand tools have the lifetime warranty, as shitty as they might be. My rule of thumb is to look elsewhere for anything with moving parts that costs over $50 because you can likely get a better price somewhere else after factoring in HF’s 90-day warranty.

Still waiting to see how long this blue compressor lasts.
>Why would you need both of those? They deliver almost the same torque.

Got the 1/2" hi torque to start with and it would do damn near anything, but there are a few times where shit is seized up bad with bigger sizes where the 3/4" just shines that much more, and as mentioned the less adapters you have the more impact force gets through to the actual fastener itself.

I bought the smaller mid-torque 1/2" impact because the hi-torque is just plain too big for lug nuts. I mean you can do them just fine, it is just heavier and hits way harder than needed for lug nuts. Even with the mid torque I run torque sticks for tightening.

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Own 25 acres full of tall, straight pines. Experience in construction (foundation work, framing, roofing). Will need to rent a telehander or some other machinery to place logs. Why is this not more popular? Seems like a great DIY and avoids the (((mortgage))) tribe. Please someone talk me out of this.
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insulate the walls or don't bother
thanks based logger
i've got the next couple of years off.
>talk me out of it
It's going to be shit ton of work. Logs are not light.

Here's an idea: build/buy a used saw mill. Mill your own lumber from what you have. Make your trees into manageable boards. You can have live edge window frames and counters. Shit will be so cool. Also you can start a small milling operation for supplemental income. Utilize corona unemployment. Free yourself. Live off grid. Well there's one more opinion for you.
Find a copy of the book Foxfire 1, has a huge amount of information on log cabin building, chimney design and building, making shingles, and many other associated tasks written in a clear, concise format from information gleaned directly via interviews in the 1960s from Appalachian folks who lived that way and performed those tasks as a matter of necessity their whole lives.

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What is this?
The steel section compresses into the brass against an internal spring
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Here's the bottom. Struggled to move this with a screwdriver but didn't have a vice on hand or anything
automatic center punch
Don't think so. Not like one I've ever seen, and the rod is too long for that
The rod can be as long as you want and it will have no bearing on the function of an auto center punch.
The diameter of the tube does not have to be large for a center punch either. Lisle and General have a center punch with a tube diameter thinner than that.

It looks like a center punch.
What else is going to have a pointed punch end, and then a hollow tube with an adjustment screw at the end?
Fair enough.
Should it not then click and snap once pushed hard enough? I dropped out of automatic centre punch college. Maybe there's a part missing?

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Homebrew thread / Homebrew General

Topic of the thread: What are some good resources to add to the sticky? Particularly wine related.

Previous thread: >>1799409

>Can I ferment X?
If it contains sugars and no preservatives, probably. It will taste like shit though. But please try it and report back.

>Easiest way to get started
1. Buy grape juice from any store.
2. Buy yeast from home brew store or order online. Bread yeast can be used, but it will probably taste bad. It will still produce alcohol.
3. Clean container. Keep everything as clean as possible, preferably with proper sanitation. See below.
4. Add juice and yeast. Follow the yeast packet directions.
5. Wait ~2 weeks.

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I mean, it's nice to have. Especially for knowing what's happening during fermentation.

Did you even read his posts?
old thread didn't even hit the bump limit yet...
Why is mead so hard to get right? I often hear people say it's either more delicious than conventional wine, or absolutely wretched and not worth the expenses.

I tried to make what's called a "sparkling short" which has beer-like properties of 7.5% and carbonated from the ale yeast. Flavored with oak cubes, pollen, and butter scotch.

9 months into secondary in a carboy and the liquid tastes like flavored motor oil. Absolute waste.
Their philosophy is fine if you want to make mead that takes a while to ferment out and might stall here and there.

I think with histotical brewing practices, you will see a simple reason for things being done such as adding fruits and spices to cover off flavours rather than adding them out of interest.

Mead is hard to get right and whilst, I may be off the handle at CS brews, a lot of crap mead being made is a result from their channel.
Mead is hard to get right compared to beer, wine, and cider because honey lacks all the available nutrition that the other drinks have. There is more in mead that you have to balance (sweetness, acidity, tannins, mouthfeel, aroma, and umami) for flavour.

Mead is also in its early days. I know for fact that in Australia, we have about 20 commercial mead makers where only 3-4 of them produce a couple of meads worth drinking whilst the others produce crap.

The US, and Poland seem to have a pretty good scene going at the moment.

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Havn't seen one in a while
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Please don't use my image to shitpost
Then wouldn't the crumpled aluminum, rifle cartridge, and wheel of cheese all be the highest amperage next to the wrench?
Aluminum as a material has a lower electrical resistance than steel, but aluminum foil is very thin. However, resistance alone is not what determines when a fuse blows. With these "fuses", it's heat, and steel can handle a lot higher temperature before failing than aluminum can
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>Audio-visual autoalert

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