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I am designing something that detects when a 12v geared motor is pulling it's maximum current and interrupts the circuit until the current overload stops. This is for a small door that closes with a string wound around the motor's shaft, and the power is stopped when the door is fully opened after the string cannot pull anymore.

I am only finding self-resetting breakers with higher current specs, and according to my brief research I will need it to have a switching capacity of 40mA for this particular 12v geared motor. The lowest I have seen them go is 3 Amps, for example this one https://www.amazon.com/GLOSO-Reset-Profile-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B09WJJN7KN/ref=pd_lpo_3?pd_rd_i=B07ZQSCJNQ&th=1 .

Am I misunderstanding something, not doing enough amazon searching, or is there another way to break a circuit temporarily and hold that break until the current is reduced underneath a low threshold?

What do you guys think about my new lampshade?
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>supports all lighting formats flawlessly
controls are steep learning curve though
and I really wish it would natively display frame numbers .. of, uhh, the bulbs
can it emit 4K (Kelvins) color???
The older I get the more I realize VLC is one of the best applications ever made.
>not a fan
But its positively glowing with praise!
<Please wait: rendering subtitle cache>

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Would a fourier transform or wavelet transform be better for characterizing the sound of tapping on different surfaces? I'm trying to train a machine learning model to identify different tapping sounds. So far I've used a canned FFT function on raw audio data and have been able to train one to tell a desk tap from a keyboard key press almost every time. Although taps on similar sounding surfaces have proven more difficult. Would wavelets be better? I know that Fourier transforms are best for stationary signals whose frequencies don't change over time. I can't imagine these sounds have unwavering frequencies, but perhaps they are brief enough to where that doesn't matter?
a tap is more than 1 frequency, usually a delicious combo with a distinct time to decay for particular frequencies.
id assume they wouldn't change frequencies but youre being autistically vague. u tapping a table? cymbal? some ass?
My approach would be looking for particular fft values by freq, amp, phase and rate of decay. wavelets are possible but sound like alot more work
I recommend Dynamic Time Warping (DTW).

Who here stores tools outside/outdoors?
Whats the best way to keep shit from getting destroyed?

Basically I have a cast iron topped table saw and a sliding miter saw (and boxes of other tools) that I need to store under my parents car port for the next couple of years.

Im going to come visit them every 3-4 months I suppose, and I want to be able to come and use the tools if I needed to on a weekend or whatever. So pretty longish storage.

What exactly do I have to look out for, parents house gets decent rain and snow.
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I use blue plastic drums (one with the top sawn off high, the other cut to make the tallest cap you can) and they do seal outdoors well enough to protect feed grain. I also use large milsurp equipment cases. Steel drums with removable lids are available and a fine way to store equipment. The military uses drums for parts etc.

Do they not have enough land for you to place another shed or shipping container? Even then you'll need to protect against flash rust but they're better than open storage.

Tools are only money so decide what it's worth vs. their replacement value for something you're IRL basically abandooning. I'd most likely put the tools in drums after hitting them with Boeshield then wrapping in cling wrap (much neater than bare coating, I got the idea from a motorbike swap meet vendor) and sell the saws then snag replacements when I bought property and actually needed them.
I store a lot of my tools outside, either one of two ways.

Shit like shovels and and rakes I do my best to make sure is stays out of the rain.

Edge tools like axes and saws I try to keep in some old busted wardrobes that I patched.

I've noticed the biggest threat is ambient humidity. It strikes every morning, so even putting a wooden barrier in between your tools and the morning air is essential.

I don't have any cast iron tools, though.
This poster is correct, wooden toolboxes really help.

Coat the tools with CRC 3-36 or WD-40 and wrap them in brown paper or plain brown cardboard.

Wood/cardboard/paper will draw moisture away from the metal.

WD-40 was invented as a water displacer to spray on electrical connections to prevent rust.

I saw a test of ~30 different rust prevention products and CRC 3-36 rated the best, and WD-40 was in the top 4. I think it was #3
Just put in on a pallet and build a crate around it
They ship machine tools overseas in them.

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Share your power tools and your rating/comments

Drill: Alpha Tools SBM650E (8/10, still holds up after many years. -2 for the suboptimal hammer drill feature but still makes a difference in concrete)
Jigsaw: Bosch PST 650 (9/10, incredible and cheapish tool. -1 for not having pendulum settings)
Angle grinder: Bosch GWS 7-115 (10/10 great quality good power to cut and grind metal)
Rotary tool: Dremel 3000 (10/10, amazing piece of kit that is on the cheap side and is the usual Dremel power/quality you'd probably expect)

As far as my wishlist goes,
Hand planer: Bosch GHO 6500
Sander: Bosch Pex 300
Hand router: Bosch POF 1400
Impact driver: have no idea which one

Currently no need for a circular saw or a table saw and anything "above" like a planer (the big ones) or jointer so far but am open to suggestions. There are no other good brands in this country so yes, am a ginormous corded bosch fanboy.
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Depends on which dewalt tool you want to buy I guess. I for one had older bosch tools be absolute crap once or twice but going mainstream *should* give you a good tool. Check the reviews and its specifications and if the reviews say it delivers, guess it is fine.

If you didn't have a drill before, it will come in handy one day. It is enough to drill holes in wood so I guess it wasn't really that bad
I met some junkie kid who offered to do that for me at Bass Pro shops, 50% off anything not locked in a case.

I like muh Lifetime Service Agreement though. Requires a receipt.
That new dewalt cut off tool looks nice.
Looking a backpack blower tho and want the makita 4 cycle blower but nobody but Amazon and uline sells them. Can't find used. Are they shit? I like that they're only 70db
>They're all made in China
My impact and drill were both made in the us

I noticed some mold buildup a week ago, so i sprayed some bleach and rubbed it with a paper towel. The ceiling was soft and punctured. How can I patch this up?
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Hang a painting over it
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>this is now /mold/ general
the inlet hose on my fridge wasn't installed securely and was leaking into my floorboard for months. opened up the basement ceiling yesterday to find this. that stringy white shit is mold isn't it? what do
you get a respirator and go to town with whatever mold killer you can find at the hardware store.
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remove the damaged drywall/plaster, and spray the wood with pic related or something equivalent
dont bother with bleach it doesnt work on porous surfaces
wear goggles, gloves and a mask
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Draw a map on your floorboard, they'll find the efficient way

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In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything radio controlled: multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?

>What about planes?

>What about aerial photography, is DIY viable?
If you want a practical flying camera platform, DJI is the sensible option. If you want a fun DIY project instead & aren't too concerned about the practicalities, then by all means DIY something.

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly around my yard/garden
Syma X5C/3" Toothpick

>I want a dirt cheap drone to fly inside my house

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That's not a bad plan, but I'd have to say that flying an actual drone is a lot more fun than any simulator, so keep that in mind if you are underwhelmed with the sim.
I need something to store the lipo batteries I have. They're not big so I don't need something huge. What's a quick solution? Will I be okay if I let them drain energy out?
most chargers have a store option, otherwise chanrge then to 40-60% manually and put them in one of those lipo fireproof bags.
Any recs?
it's best to store them at 3.8V per cell. A metal ammo can is fine, really they're not going to explode if they're not charging or discharging AND already damaged.

Bought a couch and it came without pre-drilled holes for the legs. I got a set of legs I want to put on it since the plastic ones it came with look like garbage anyway.

How the fuck do I install these leg holder things without fucking it all up though? I understand I have to drill some holes for the screws to pass through these and further in but how to make a hole so fine that this thing can plug into it and the small screws around the sides also go in without breaking the "wood wall" through the side of the large hole? They're so close together it's like I need a high precision drill or something.

I'm thinking maybe I should just screw the center hole and not the 3 small holes and let the big screw in the leg hold this thing in place or look for a bracket where the small holes are further out.
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If you have a drill with a bit the diameter of the center shaft you are set.

>mark where shaft will go, dead center of the beam, be precise
>drill hole as straight as humanly possible, no angles
>insert into hole
>if it is a little tight, that is perfect, just go easy at it with a hammer
>if it is loose apply any glue, the goal isn't for it to stick but to fill the gaps
>position screw holes so they are as far as possible from the edge of the wood
>get 1 inch wood screws, 1¼ inch works fine
>set your drill in reverse like you were removing a screw
>position screw in the center of the hole.
>drill full speed and apply pressure, you are now effectively using the screw as a drill bit.
>drill ¼ inch in. As straight as humanly possible. This will take a couple of seconds and it will smoke a little but don't worry that means it is working. This will prevent the wood from splitting.
>switch the drill rotation and screw in, not too tight, just enough to secure the plate

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What's worse is they can Google to find a picture but not Google their question.
Because all Google does is try to sell me stuff and show listicles. "People also searched for: best living room sofa 2022”
It's dead and useless.
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The legs are on now. It was a pain in the ass because I didn't have a 1/2 wood bit in my toolkit but I had 3/8 so I used that and rotated to slowly widen the center holes until the plug thing fit.

I got the couch tipped back upright and the legs didn't snap off from the weight nor is it noticeably un-level so I guess I did ok. Thank you /diy/.

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Questions that don't deserve their own thread: propane edition.

I'm trying to disconnect the connector on the bottom of the image. It's too tight to do it by hand, so I'm guessing I need to lube it up and use a special kind of wrench (mine won't grip).
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Is there a way to install a hidden camera relatively easy in a kitchen? We're having problems in our bedsit that one of the 5 tenants is stealing food from us and It's pissing us off.
I don't believe you or the other gentleman have any idea what your talking about
I'm curious how to get rid of this mold.
Vapor barrier
Disassemble the car and take it to a scrap yard

Afternoon lads,

What kind of valve is this? It came off of an old motorcycle gas tank that I assume is custom. I've looked everywhere both online and in hardware stores. Any info helps.
Looks lika a needle valve
Looks like a home depot special
looks like garbage
get an actual fuel petcock

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It's that time again, cool free shit on Craigslist

Dis nigga just got a pool full of goldfish
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Is my 24v Cummins worth the money saved?
Yeah I would take that.
>will usually admit that they aren't kids and that treating them like they are is an odd coping strategy...
>Meanwhile they themselves treat the dolls like they are real children
Curious, really..
Surely this could be sold on for a reasonable amount of profit?
people with waste oil burners would take that in a heartbeat

free heat

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Found my grandma's old sewing machine which was stuck I asked for maybe 25 years. Seems to be running fine. If I were to "service" it, is it just a matter of oiling it a bit and changing the belt that turns the needle?

Also is wd40 enough to oil it or do you need a special oil?
wd-40 is a solvent, not an oil, so yes you should get some oil. If you have air clipper oil that will work, it's what I used for the old sewing machine I found. Look up the manual online, there will be a section for servicing and maintenance that indicates all the different points where you should add oil. It's pretty easy, involves removing some body panels and such.
Do NOT use WD40 to oil anything. It's not made for it and it's bad in the long run/will clog up. Use sewing machine oil. It's resin and acid free and doesn't oxidize under normal air and UV. Not sure what it is probably something like a light VG10 spindle oil. You can use any oil made for precision mechanics but sewing machine oil is very cheap anyway so just use the right stuff.
>If I were to "service" it, is it just a matter of oiling it a bit and changing the belt that turns the needle?
Yep, clean up the old oil and any grease (if applicable) and then reoil it

>Also is wd40 enough to oil it or do you need a special oil?
WD40 is formulated to quickly dry up and leave a film (acts as a rust prohibiter).
It lubricates poorly, and only for a very short time. Use it to free things up, or to spray down shit that might rust, not for things that need oil to keep running smooth.

As for a sewing machine, use sewing machine oil.
The sewing machine WILL get oil on the fabric you sew, sewing machine oil is made to be non staining and easily washed out.

If you use something else it may stain clothes, or gum up the machine as it dries.
>The sewing machine WILL get oil on the fabric you sew

if you do this precisely and in the exact locations it tells you to keep oiled, this shouldnt be a problem really. if you squirt shitloads of it all over the mechanisms, then yeah it will drip down everywhere and make a mess. PRECISION is the key! use a precision oiler or go get a cheapy drug needle from the drug store and use that for precision oiling
Don't use WD-40 for a sewing machine. It removes rust well and is great for getting stuck mechanisms moving, but a poor long-term lubricant.

Get yourself some pure mineral oil - sometimes known as 'white mineral oil', 'mineral carrier oil', 'sewing machine oil', or rarely these days 'acid-free mineral oil'.
It is the perfect multitool in terms of oil it doesn't oxidize, it doesn't stain, it is inherently food safe (food safe and edible are not the same).
You can use it for oiling machinery, oiling wooden utensils, oiling leather, mixing with beeswax for making a non-oxidising pastewax for furniture, drinking in small quantities as a laxative (also for pets and livestock, consult your vet before feeding Fido a bowl of oil), and it also works as sexual lube (although it will dissolve latex condoms).
There are probably more uses, but those are the ones I know and use it for.

If you buy it as sewing machine oil, it'll usually come in handy dandy little applicator-bottles ready to apply but cost a fortune for what it is (~£7-10 a bottle for 125ml - at least £56 a liter). But if you've already got an applicator bottle or a pipette or ok with buying one of those separately, you can buy it as 'white mineral oil' or 'mineral carrier oil' in 1-5 liter bottles and end up paying as little as £4 a liter.

As to where you'll need to apply oil in your sewing machine, only apply where metal runs on metal and in very small quantities, a drop at a time. Its much easier to apply more than it is to contain the mess of too much oil.
Never apply where a drivebelt or such may touch, because such belts are likely made of rubber and any oil-based lubricant will destroy it.

I'm the tire guy from earlier, had two flats at once. I changed the rear one out with a spare and planned on going a few miles to the store after inflating the other. As soon as I pull out I hear a loud squeak coming from the back wheel once every rotation of the wheel. I should note that as I was changing the wheel, when I had it up and rotated the wheel it made a grinding rusty sound for part of it, and also one of the 5 screws coming out that secured the wheel was quite loose. I also horse kicked it about 1000 times to get it off, and when I first discovered the flat I drove about 10 feet on it which mighta been bad for the ol wheel. Is it safe to drive 5 miles to repair? If not wtf to do, tow it? I plan on trading it soon anyway I'd probably just tow it to a dealer
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Is was grinding as soon as you put the spare on? And you ignored that obviously out of place noise and drove it anyway?
Did you put the spare on backwards? It's possibly rubbing something on your caliper or dust cover.
Just take the spare back off and see where the rim is hitting. (Shiny metal)
Brakes and rotors, the caliper is the culprit most likely.


It could have gotten misaligned, uneven brake pad wear, rotors gouging, the caliper will start to stick.

You'll be alright driving for a long time up until the whole assembly starts flopping around. Then you could lose hydraulic pressure to all tires. Brake pedal goes to the floor. You still have an e brake.

I'm at the point where if I hit a bump it comes off or slides back, no brakes. It's so fucking loud. I'm saving up to get the whole works replaced. I'll drive it like this until it leaks out brake fluid. Cheapest route. Will only have to miss one day of work.
If pressing the gas pedal makes the vehicle move forward, then yes, you can still drive it
>I'm saving up to get the whole works replaced
get a socket set and buy the parts and do it yourself dummy.

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what are the cheaper tools i can use to cut concrete? solid, 80 year cured, military base concrete. I want to make a concrete skate ramp on this concrete pad but i need to dig down the concrete to create a smooth seam that wont chip/flake away
>concrete was very difficult and time consuming to break with a massive sledge hammer on previous ramp builds.

I currently have the general ryobi tools. drill, impact driver, sawzawl, woodsaw, angle grinder.
do i need to buy a "hammer drill" or a "concrete saw" to cut through this, or can i just throw concrete blades on a wood saw or angle grindeR?

also ryobi tool sale this weekend!, i need batteries!
how is ryobi warranty? ive heard of them usually making people jump through hoops, but somtimes they tell people to just gab a replacement of the shelf, no questions asked. if i just go to a nice, white neighborhood, should it be easier to get no reciept/questions warranty? i bought my tools at th flea marker.

can a bullshit flea market battery ruin my ryboi charger and thus start ruining all my other batteries?
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these cinderblocks have rebar running down into the ground?

most of that weight is being directed towards the ground.
While a retard digs behind it
They're completely filled with concrete, mortared together and with rebar running down into a concrete footer. It is damn near up to retaining wall standards. It doesn't have to win beauty contests
Not just the ground, into a concrete footer, past it into the earth, and tied into the rebar in the footer. You could rock to fakie this bitch w a Honda civic it's not going anywhere
Absolutely no where is 6 feet of cinder block code for a retaining wall
>It is damn near up to retaining wall standards
>visibly out of plumb

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ITT: Post your three most used tools, other try to guess what your trade is.
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No, but I do work with loads of cardboard.
Painter because they have nothing but paintbrushes and more beer to open the beer.


HVAC technician
flat pack furniture assembler
applebee's cook

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