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what goes into a good quality bedframe? if i truly wanted a bed that will last me decades, what should i look for if i want one to last?
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>what goes into a good quality bedframe?
A bed.
Doesn’t steel burn and melt too?
Man I’m getting sleepy. Maybe we should just let this thread slide off the board.
Nigga come on. My grandfather's floor was oiled and waxed in ~1950. Viking ships were oiled and tarred and/or waxed.
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Lots of wood. Then add a bit more.
it would take something hotter than jet fuel
jet fuel wouldn't melt a steel beam even if it was put in something where it could suck plenty of air in through the bottom/sides and be vented out the top/sides

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I fucked up and majored in a useless degree (humanities) and am considering going into plumbing to escape the Starbucks wagie life and gain a actual skill I can have for life. I would rather deal with shit than running the risk of getting electrocuted as an electrician but am not disregarding it as a option. I have lots of mechanical experience working on a farm so I know I could handle the physical workload. Is being a plumber worth it?
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You must live in a gay little european country cause you hsve to wear composite toe to most jobsites in the US
>I have tried. For some reason they don’t like me, I’m a maintenance supervisor with industrial experience but haven’t had my resume pulled even once the two or three times I’ve put it in. I’ve heard the people who get hired there go through a community job training program kind of designed just for them, but idk for sure.

You have too much experience in your line of work, same issue I'm having trying to get into Industrial maintenance as an electrician foreman/lead
>Unions will be wise to prefer experienced hands joining their ranks. The one I'm in was to myself and other nonunion applicants

I'm a Journeyman Electrician and my local will bring me on as a CE3 which gets 80% of the JW pay
>Learn controls and automation instead.

I recently had a job offer to work on repairing car wash stations, is that a good point of entry? Or should I just keep trying to get a job at a factory to get hands on experience?
>do HVAC instead. its like plumbing but with less literal shit.
Also if you're in a moderate temperature region, you're likely to see massive growth in heatpump based heating in the next few years. Growth industry.
Less so in colder areas because of the high capital investment necessary for ground source heatpumps, drill rigs aren't cheap.

I found a diy txt reader that I am working on and was wondering if there is something similar but can write programs on without using other computer and has multiple other purposes/functions.
Also want something were I can insert external memory to read simple files and run programs.
The more discrete parts that can be used the better.
I do not want something too big but something that can fit in a pocket.
Thanks if you can help.
txt reader:
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Look into 6502 hobby kits and the like. There's heaps of documentation and a hobby community for them, parts are still available, and they powered a lot of old PCs back in the day. I've been told the 6502 assembly language is easy to learn, too.
I'm sure you could find a way to run them off a battery pack with a small display and keyboard.
adafruit adalogger or literally any other arduino with a built in SD card slot
>adafruit adalogger
I do not trust a company ran by women
Not discrete
you don't have a fucking clue what you want
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well those kinda exist if u are willing to make an external mem adapter, something like sharp pocket computer PC-G850v, its essentially a beefed up graphing calculator, in fact just use a TI-84 cus they with a few modifications can do exactly what u want and fit ur criteria exactly sense the majority still use 8-bit or pseudo 16-bit or 16-bit setups also they support a variety of languages depending on the system u are using, C, Fortran, BASIC and machine code
stop being stupid, doesn't matter if a man or women did it as long as it works well, and it does so lay on a pike

Welcome to the woodworking general, here we discuss the working of wood and the tools and techniques of working wood. So far we tend to be mostly hand tool folk with a slant towards cabinetry and carving but all are welcome and we have some capable power tool folk amount our ranks. General carpentry question such as framing/decking/general construction seems to get a better response in the /qtddtot/ or /sqt/.

>essential /wwg/ books
Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, gives you everything you need and shows you how to do it multiple ways from hand tools to power tools and gives you the knowledge to determine which is best, and then he teaches you how to apply what you learned. The PDF of the second book can be found in the usual places, but the other two are MIA.

Christopher Schwarz tells you everything you need to know about planes and saws and their use
Handplane Essentials
Handsaw Essentials
Best to find this one in PDF from the usual sources, out of print and pricey!

Chris Pye wrote the book on carving and keeps on writing them.

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You should break it apart with a hammer first. A poor tweaker may dig it out of your garbage and be frustrated trying to plane things building his meth shack.
If the plane flexes with the cap iron set properly it will flex from being used because of the wood acting on the blade so can never actually be flat. If the sole flexes than the cap iron is too tight.
It will be fine, you may have some work to do flatening the sole and iron bed but you should be able to get it working well. The one catch with this plane is the lack of chip breaker which will make it difficult to get a tear out free surface in some woods but by that point you will want more than one plane anyways and this one will do well for the rough work.
Ebay is fine if the seller uploads good pictures. Major blade rust and worm holes are no gos, next is cracks and grooves in the sole, Signs of abuse.
On horn planes the horns are often loose. The newer laquerd ones fare generallly better here as they are not 50 years old.
I look from time to time, tons of new old stock for 1/3 the now mrsp
What do I need to start out with woodcarving? I currently have various sandpaper grits, a blunt Mora and a lot of free time
>a lot of free time
Then sharpen that knife and have at it.

I have to attach this threshold on top of some porcelain tile (edge of shower) and have it at a slight angle to shed water.

What's the correct way to attach this to the tile? Should I use mortar and lay it in like a piece of tile ? Or just throw a bunch of silicone caulk down and press it into that?
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Polyurethane will give best results, if the tile is in decent shape I'd leave it and just clean the hell out of it.
The trick is that you want to bed the part in enough sealant that it squeezes out of both the front and back and sides edges leaving no bubbles or gaps for water to be trapped anywhere.
For the slope I would cut a strip of material that won't rot like plastic to act as a shim along the high side but back from the edge, stick it down first so it can't move (after triple checking dry fit of all parts), apply the sealant/glue to the cobtact areas and bed it in.
Then I'd put some weight on top like gallon jugs of water or bricks or something to keep it flat until it cures.

When you dry fit it's a good idea to tape off the surrounding areas to make cleaning off the squeeze-out easier and cleaner. If you need to tool the seams with a finger wear, nitrile gloves and wet the finger with mineral spirits.
The tile is brand new , the shower pan is below grade(like step down/into), and they just tiled up to the edge. The glass guy said he won't install glass without a threshold because it would splash into the room and I couldn't have a rug with out it hitting the door.

I guess the polyurethane is for the adhesive part , and then I just have to put regular white silicone around the edges ?
I find it hard to understand your issue

Don't the tiles go past where the glass will be ?
Why does he need a porcelain threshold to mount the glass on
The glass needs to be above the ground, there is no shower curb as the pan is below grade, so he said I need to install a threshold there.
But the step and everything has to be sloped and water proofed right?

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>he fell for the pex meme
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Looks like a pain in the ass.
It's not see
Takes 2 seconds
>Takes 2 seconds

Good post, been looking into the pex meme but a pressurized system that's clamped together seems all kinds of retarded. Shame copper is so expensive.
You should see the hardware we use to repair fuel lines in 50-80 psi systems.
It basically pex with the same types of clamps and barbs.
And they just sit under a car and never ever leak or break.

Edit question

Is there a a application with it i can create a "puls" effect with a photo fitted to the bass or tact from a song title?
Mmm interesting question
liquid mercury is a hell of a drug
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yes my good sir, i believe what youre looking for is 'music visualization' software. try i dont know if VLC supports this feature or not but i will reccomend it nonetheless. if, with my regrets it does not meet your expectations,my good chum, take comfort in the fact its desktop icon is a whimsical orange safety pylon! how charming!

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Why are there so many once perfectly good homes in the Pittsburgh area that have been left to rot for decades? It's odd that so many of them seem to have been completely abandoned and not even inhabited by lower income families. Could they be good diy investment opportunities?
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>anime forum
>board filled with bored NEETs looking to kill time, and high school dropout tradies
Yes, you are unironically correct. This board has a huge amount of retards
I live in eastern pa and have developed a borderline fetish with the cheap property is western pa, particularly the corridor between Pittsburgh and Youngstown OH, around the Beaver area. Not exactly fix and flip but first home type stuff, I currently live with my parents and work a basic warehouse job, and can make the same wages over there, with much easier access to property. Everything around me is like 900 minimum for rent and 250k for livable real estate (about an hour west of Philly). Dunno if it's just a pipe dream and I should go back to college for a career, or if it's worth moving somewhere cheaper and staying in the same $20-27/hr wage bracket. Honestly most the people I know who got a degree aren't making more than 80k annually, most are 60-80, a few are 100k+ but those are the super lucrative careers that're closer to the city and are highly competitive and frankly I just don't care to live that way. It just seems so reasonable when there's stuff like this available https://apps.realtor.com/mUAZ/erx9k8qu

And I don't have to gamble on an expensive degree to get ahead.

It doesn't have to be that exact area either, guy i know got a 30 year mortgage on a 140k home in Reading a few years ago and it's already appreciated like 30 grand. He's only got a GED too, partied through his early twenties and now makes $27/hr with a factory job he got off indeed. Blew my mind.

Anyway I'd be interested to hear some real opinions on this because everyone where I live made their fortune in law or marketing or some fancy pedigreed career path, and when I talk about how confused I am they honestly don't know what to say. On the one hand I feel privileged for growing up in a nice area, on the other I feel totally screwed in economic mobility. So I dunno call me a faggot or whatever I guess, I don't care, shitposting is still going to be cheaper than $120/hr therapy.
120 a hr? shit it was only 50 WHEN i was crazy HEHEHEHEHEH
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>amenities: A+

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I am thinking of building a sterilization chamber.

I have paranoia with microorganisms and germs ... and I want to start dehydrating fruits, but before sealing them vacuum, I would like to sterilize them so that this may have a longer useful life. I also intend to use this camera for other objects.

Can you give me tips?

I know a UV chamber can't have mirrors inside. I read somewhere that they absorb UV radiation. Then the interior of this chamber should be filled with polished and mirrored aluminum blades. correct?

Just like the photo, I saw some products, and are very expensive ... So I believe the next question is useless: combining Ozone gas is a good idea? Could this combination harm some kind of food?

Has anyone done something like that?
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OP here. I am grateful for the information provided... it was more sensible than what most people here have shared.

I am at peace with my mental health. As another person mentioned above, I simply wish to stock up on food... I do not have a fear of germs, unlike some individuals in the United States. I am also not overly clean. In fact, the more exposure I have to microorganisms, the better my immunity will be. This is because the recent "stay-at-home" wave brought about negative consequences on everyone's immune system.

Regarding UV, from what I have seen, exposure for short periods of time does not harm the skin, but can cause blindness and there are even glasses to protect against that. But since this is a cabin, I believe I only need to worry about protecting my eyes/glasses. And with the ozone within the cabin and a well-ventilated space, I do not think I will have any issues with my lungs.

My intention is truly to sterilize what I plan to store long-term and seal it vacuum-sealed afterwards. Financial experts have predicted an unprecedented financial crisis for over 20 years, and COVID has only accelerated its arrival. So, I am preparing for it by, among other things, storing as much food as I can, since where I live it is already very difficult...
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if u want to build a UVC sterilizer it surprisingly easy.
follow these steps:
1.get a few meters of wire, an opaque box/tub with lid, UVC germicidal tube, incandescent lightbulb or magnetic ballast or electronic ballast, and starter if u are using either a light bulb or magnetic ballast, and a plug.

2. make the cable

3. do the tube wiring depending on the ballast method u used

and u are done!

its gonna work just fine just be careful cus its gonna burn ur eyes if u are not careful, while making mine, note i made mine for UV exposure of PCBs , but this simple set up can be appropriated for sterilization very easily
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>Are actually 1.5"x3.5" in size
>Contain wood which can kill if you eaten
>Beavers can and will chew right through it
>Reduces your testosterone levels and makes you into a wood c(h)uck

Seriously bros I hope you didn't fall for the 2x4 meme
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am wood eating canadian. Also OP is a faggot
Some idiot is making one of these houses from a few shipping containers in the middle of suburbia here, he's got them layed out but seems like the entire project has been abandoned as nothing been done in months now
north ontario
>seems like the entire project has been abandoned as nothing been done in months now
Love seeing these
My neighbor on the corner lot across the street from me clear-cut his land, put a black wood fence around it, and then 6 months ago put down a gravel driveway
It was once a beautiful natural area with plenty of hardwoods and a shed, now it's an empty lot with a fence and a big gravel line through it

Car repair question. Want to get some opinions before I start tearing stuff apart or give up and call the dealer. I already searched the intertubes and nothing seems to match my problem. The heater will not blow warm air no matter how long I idle or drive until I shut it off and restart it. Then it's warm immediately. Coolant level is fine. Possible thermostat issue?
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Could be, I’ve also heard of problems with the heater core and those are normally an awful job because they’re buried deep under a lot of shit, could be an issue there. Or it could be the HVAC controls stuck on cold somehow.

Old school thermostats are cheap, not the worst part to throw at it if the job isn’t too bad on your car.
>then it’s warm immediately
Too dumb to read that part.

I’m sort of with other anon on the blend door idea too. Have you tried flipping from hot to cold and back to hot on the HVAC controls after the car is already warm?

If you’re getting a cold streak, random shit on old shitboxes gets either loose or extra sticky. Had a car with a throttle cable that liked to freeze up on extra cold mornings, had to heat the car up for like 20min on those below 0F days before I could depress the gas pedal.

But also you gotta mention what car because that stuff differs greatly between a 90s car and a 20s car.
2012 Buick Enclave. And it doesn't matter if I turn off and on the climate control. I have to turn the car off and on. And it can litterly be off for 2 seconds before restarting to get it working.
I'm going with vacuum leak. Nothing to do with temp, you lack vacuum when you first start after sitting. Engine running restores it. Not sure exactly why turning it off/on is necessary to restore the controls.
2012 Buick Enclave uses an electric solenoids to actuate the blend/recirc/direction doors. It doesn't use vacuum actuators to control the HVAC system. Also, you absolutely have vacuum when you first start the car, whether it has been sitting or not. If the engine is turning, then there is vacuum (although there is a lot less when the throttle is wide open obviously) Please exit the thread.

OP after the car has been running awhile and is warmed up but the heat isn't working... Check the temperature of the heater inlet and outlet hoses where they pass through the firewall under the hood. If they're both hot but you aren't getting warm air, then you can suspect that a blend door issue is the problem. This can be either because of wiring problems, climate control module problems, or because the blend door solenoid itself is fucking up.

These types of solenoids/steppers are a common failure item on vehicles in that age range because they have these weird wiper/brush arrangements inside that get fouled and scratched up and then they are no longer making good electrical contact. You can remove them and then disassemble and clean/grease them in order to usually get them working again. Also, you could just replace the solenoid if it's bad--- they're only like 20$ online.

Here's someone doing the job on a 2011 Buick Enclave which should match yours. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KX_JemK9f34
Please note that you can visually confirm the operation of the blend door solenoid by simply removing the plastic panel which covers it and then switching from heat to cold and back again. If the solenoid doesn't move then it's 99% likely to be the problem.

Just took this test, it is a pre-requisite for most of the trades jobs. 55 out of 68 is the average. Post your results.

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I assumed the cart was held stationary by the rope andthe force was equal
lmao eat shit nigger
If the trolley moved they could have said so. Before moving you have a right triangle x2=b2+h2. After moving far enough you have another one with (x+y)2=(x-y)2+(2b)2. It follows that x-y < h so it goes up. Maybe they tried to answer "what happens to the hook when the ends of the rope on the left side move to the right?", which is too many words.
The question is poorly written because it can be interpreted in several ways depending on the conditions that you will encounter while moving the wheelbarrow. "A" is probably better for heavier loads over longer distances on smooth surfaces.
There are actually several different types of wheelbarrows and the type intended to move the heaviest loads usually try to center the load over the wheel--- in so doing, they sacrifice control and utility on rough or uneven surfaces.
>Is this such common knowledge that you pull the boat from the shore along the waterway?
I imagine this is a mooring situation where you're pulling the boat to a dock or something
t. worked at a marina for 5 months
Even then, depends on the weight of the cart, the rope, and the exact angle of the slope. Semantics, but you're most likely right given how low the cable/rope is attached to the cart.

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New Questions That Don't Deserve Their Own Thread, doesn't look like there's one active.
Is there a maximum size that you can realistically make a carpet patch for?
I've got a big section of floor, maybe 2'x10', that's underneath a cabinet. I don't need the storage space and it makes the room feel smaller so I'd like to remove it. Problem is, the previous homeowners laid new carpet down on the entire floor except for underneath the cabinet, so when I get rid of it I'll have a big patch of mismatched carpet. Assuming I get a carpet that matches, can I make a repair on an area that large, or will it just fall apart after a few months?
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Anybody knows what material this is? Is it malachite? If not, what?
I’ve got CMU block walls in my basement that have lumps of concrete at the top course, almost like they dropped some there and it cured. Anyone ever run into this and just chiseled it off? I’m trying to air seal, so I want to get a flat surface for rigid foam, but I don’t want to risk breaking a giant chunk off of a block.
I want a megaphone that's small enough to carry around without being a burden, but loud enough to be heard from far away.
Any ideas about what to look for?
Hey /diy/, noob here. I have a couple of things in my house that started to squeak due to metal on metal rubbing. What's the best rout to take here, lubrication or dampening? Biggest culprits are a stationary bike and a queen-sized bed frame. Should I put some kind of lubricant between all of the joints and tighten any loose bolts, or should I loosen the joints, put some kind of material between them (rubber resistance bands? fabric?) and re-tighten? Or is there a third, better kind of solution? Thanks in advance!

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I mean, you could just google it and see how it actually works. It's pathetic that you're just now learning about this from a random 4chan thread
>Ground is the biggest psyop the electrical industry has ever seen.
No it isn't retard, what do you think ground even is?
>purple yellow and green for 120v romex
I can guess the color for the grounding conductor, but what color was the grounded conductor? 120v doesn't typically have two ungrounded conductors.
>Neutral and Ground have different bus bars theyre landed into, grounded is bonded. We invented this shit limey.
Depends if it is the main service entrance or not.

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How do I get past my fear of these /diy/?
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Meth, you need to smoke meth.. Then you will want to use one at 3am every night!
>chinese welder torture
Use proper safety gear and get used to it. Start off incredibly nervous and death grip it then eventually you'll relax around it. Then one day you'll get complacent and drive one into your foot
Doug is a tool, but he's right this time.
Get some kneepads too so you can suck the safety supervisors dick off later too

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