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Mist of the wood is broken or rotted out. Gonna reuse the window. Any advice?
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>Mist of the wood
my ex-gf had a candle called that
Not that big of deal. The wood that is there is a map. Just replace rotted wood with new wood. Make sure your exterior is nice and sealed up and you will be good to go forever as long as you maintain calking and paint and stuff. Use good calking something like dynaflex
That wood probably rotted due to water entry because of improper flashing details. Are you going to correct this when you repair and reinstall it?
Thanks all. Not a fan of the way they did it. Was just gonna rip it out and frame with 2x6's and just have the bottom tilted. Wrap it and go. Not sure why there is a gap between the 2x4 and the 1x4. The screw does not even reach the 2x4
Yeah it was a leaker and ended up just siliconing it till I could address it. It was a foreclosure

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Do spark plugs and wires need to be replaced in one shot? Am I going to break my distributor if I replace one side of my v6 engines spark plugs and wires today and the other side next weekend, driving to work all week?
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also, and by all means, do not skimp on a couple bucks, use anti seize on the threads, and use dielectric grease on the plug boots, saves headaches in the future.
>t generally non point ignitions care ass about how big a gap is
It matters, especially at high rpm, or cold weather, or slightly bad gas, a bigger gap makes it harder to jump and makes it delay the "peak ideal voltage" at which to jump. letting the voltage get higher before it jumps the gap can lead to breakdowns earlier in the chain (putting another 10KV on the coil and wires) and smaller gaps mean less flame front, so less gas mileage / more emissions for your cat to have to process. yes you can get away with it, yes it will run fine most of the time, but why not do it right?
fug, I want to do my sparkplugs but I'm terrified of the threads snapping off the base of the plug while I'm trying to unscrew them. they're past the 120k mile interval but I don't want to risk it, I'll probably just get a new car.
You finally married the cute cuban girl?
Better you than some retard grease monkey. You care about your car, they don't give a fuck

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Is getting your real estate license in NYS retardly easy or am I being scammed?

Taking the mandatory 75 hr course from RealEstateU right now with a 30 day refund policy and so far it's just a bunch of 4 minute videos of this smiley bald lawyer telling me longwinded google definitions. Am I just 300 IQ or is this course missing something?

How hard can a test for divorced soccer moms be?
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>Flipping houses is definitely related to /diy/
House flippers should be shot, which means it's should go on /k/.
i fucking love this song
I’ve made 100k so far this year flipping houses. Seethe. If you’re the faggot who keeps reeeeing in the we buy houses thread I’m the same flipper who keeps posting there. If my year continues like it should I’ll make about 250k this year. .
tips for getting into it? do you flip houses as a main income source or is it just an income supplement
different guy but suppy if you're smart. My main income comes from online stores

tho flipping could totally be your main if you chad like >>2082834

listen to pic related and you'll gain all the business knowledge you'll need in life ( if youre white)

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When it comes to outdoor security cameras that have easy app interface, good quality as well as the ability to move the camera from the app what decent options are out there?

I was looking at wyze but wasn't sure what to think of wifi cameras and shit
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Just get a couple Ring cameras.
Thank me later.
Any ip camera, unless connected to an open source DVR etc and otherwise properly firewalled is not just a security risk from an access perspective but a foothold into your network and a platform for botnet attacks. Same for ALL IOT DEVICES, google, alexa, windows 10, the modem your isp gives you etc.
Use open source software on a dedicated hardware to reduce infiltration to only 3 letter agencies on supported silicon backdoors.
have the blink cameras, both indoors and outdoors. easy setup and happy with app
Ezviz cameras have worked well for me, the app is brilliant too.

Paid cloud storage or micro sd cards in the cameras if you need to save video. I just live stream to my android phone whenever I meed to see what's going on.

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It's happening frens!
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>Coping saw with a fine tooth blade does the job easier than a jig saw, certainly easier than a table saw. If a jig saw was the tool of choice flooring guys would have one, but they don't, they just carry a coping saw with them, scribe the cut, do it freehand and move on to the next piece.

Thanks for the tip.
>coping saw
Yuck. Cut the straight cuts with a skillsaw. I imagine an ultra saw could be ideal for people who can't do detail with a skill. Undercut the jambs and casing with a multi. There should be an 1/8 to a quarter gap to the plates anyway.
>buying phlalate plastic shit instead of bamboo flooring
yeah, shiggy diggy indeed

The plastic hickory looks good and I wasn't planning on paying $3+ sq ft when I'm planning on moving from this spot in a few years.
May I suggest an angle grinder with a sanding flapdisk attachment works great for real wood I imagine not so great with laminate or vinyl

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hey /diy/ I wanna embark on a project but I dont exactly know what to do and I need help. I saw somewhere that you can make fabric out of candy wrappers and I wanna execute the same process but with comic book pages so my main question is what is the best plastic coating to put on the paper before I vinyl and fabric line the paper? any and all methods on how to execute this would be appreciated greatly.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
Does it need to be flexible
Woven like a flat mat or rolled like yarn?
it needs to be flexible
mod podge might work? never used it myself but I know it's a clear glue/sealer for artsy types
ill try it out anon thanks for your input

>made our god
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Looks good anon. Keep up the good work
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Good job my son. Want me to put it on my website? https://bbwroller.com
I wasn’t sure if I wanted to click on that shit but curiosity got the better of me... I’m glad I clicked on it. Love your website bro
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Thanks bro

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So I made this cutting board out of spruce wood today, (the tree have been drying for 6 months), I've bathed it in food grade mineral oil and it's saturated for now. How do I prevent this fucker from cracking? it's end grain after all.
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.

What's wrong with end grain cutting boards? People pay extra for that.

Although I'm not sure OP's really counts. It's like he just bandsawed a branch.
Who cares about tool marks?!, I couldn't care less because cutting on them is what cutting boards is for.
Looks good to me. Get you some nice sticky rubber feet on it and that bad boy aint going any where. One thing i hate is my cutting boards sliding around while im trying to do shit. I say good job anon.
it's not going anywhere to begin with.

if your cutting board slides around put a typical terry cloth towel under it. plastic cutting boards should be discarded in a year or two as soap/dishwashers do not adequately penetrate the cut marks (this effect is not present in wood boards)
I don't think 6 months is enough for this to be dried and seasoned all the way through, preventing cracks at this point is all about making sure it does not dry to fast, but it's hard to tell from a picture how dry it actually is.

I really like the look of it, but sadly my guess is that this will be quite warped and wobbly in less than a week and that there is little you can do about it at this point.

That being said, even with well seasoned wood it's hard to stop cuts like this from warping, almost impossible when they are regularly exposed to moisture like a cutting board will be. One of the reasons why you see end-grain cutting boards made from many pieces with alternating curves to the grain is to stop that from happening.

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I'm looking to learn cabinetry software. Anyone recognize which program creates the attached pic?
Looks like 20/20
Its dogshit. Just learn autocad or vectorworks.
Chief Architect is great program for kitchen design. Well, entire house design, really. It's pretty expensive though. Maybe you could find a "free" version.
Is there any framing software that will give you a bill of material and render your design?
two points. 1) learning any software is best done by dicking around with it 2) you don't need fucking software to make kitchen cabinets.
this will

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Alright /diy/ I've got a jacked up man-door into the garage, the casing is crooked and there are dents, plus the previous owner "broke-in" to his own house through it at some time and the repair is shoddy as shit.

I brought an exterior door from my old house I'm planning on reframing and replacing but when I got down to it my door is 35.5" wide, and the gap between the cement footer is only 35" wide. I'm moving shit back at least to the stud-packs on either side which will be 35" opening and aligned with the cement footers.

1. how much can I cut down a solid core door? cutting hinge side only.
2. can I tie it directly to the stud packs (hinge on one side, latch bore/strikeplate opposite) to maximize width or do I have to have frame casing on either side?

I imagine the stud packs will be impossible to true up, but I'd be adding an outside facia to mimic the stop mounting. If not I'd have to cut it down 2" to accommodate everything within the cement bounds.

Thoughts? Doable? I hate the piece of shit door that's on there rn and would really like to make this work.
While you could just trim 3 inches off the hinge side of the door to make it work, it's not going to look good.
It seems like the options are: trim the door until it looks like shit, get a proper sized door slab for $$, or widen the opening by cutting away some of the masonry and doing a bit of framing (which may end up costing more than just buying a proper size slab)
How tall is the door and the frame above the concrete? Maybe make the concrete part into a step.
current door is 91" new door 90" header rail 92" or more.

door slabs are $200 for the cheapest as far as I can see (lowes)

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Is There a way to light elctricity neon tester with just Contact to human skin? And no harm to human?

Pic related
You can make a tool that mimics such a tester when the probe touches human skin.
It would need a battery and a custom circuit of course.

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I found this while digging today, seems to be brass, anyone got an idea what this could be ?
14 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.

This was my guess as well. Some kind of lamp part.
just guessing, piece from old ornate lamp or chandelier
This is my guess as well before I even looked at the replies
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it looks like your mom's butt plug.
Looks like a threaded 4cm brass rod to me

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I have about $10K saved up and I'm planning on wandering the USA looking for somewhere to put roots
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>Do you even have a spare tire?
Doughnuts are fine to get you to a used tire shop or Sam's club where you can buy 3 tires get one free with lifetime rotate and balance and roadside hazard. OP, buy a t shaped wrench and $30 hydraulic floor jack. Tint the windows and install rain guards so you can crack the windows at night incognitoly. Open a P.O. box to receive mail and a storage unit if you plan on working in a specific city. Don't get a gym membership at Planet Fitness find something better. Replace your stock battery with a deep cycle gel cell, cutting the battery tray to squeeze in the biggest one possible if there's room. Run a thick enough copper power cable through the firewall and connect a pure sine wave power adapter. Have a tool bag to include scissors, pliers, socket sets, zip ties, flashlight, strong tape, screwdrivers, super glue, hammer, multimeter, utility knife, sharpies, etc. Panera bread unlimited coffee subscription is good to save money if you drink coffee. Get a $5 magnet that attaches to your vent to mount phone on, run power cables behind dash/stereo to have wires out of the way, but also have additional charger with 6-10 foot cable plugged into center console for when you're in the back. A thick queen sized memory foam mattress pad folded in half is super comfy and can be tucked behind front passenger seat allowing you to lay and stretch for comfy sleeps. Buy a seat pad otherwise your butt may hurt too bad since you'll be sitting a lot. Finding a 12+ story building to climb stairs 2-3 at a time taking the elevator down(going down stairs is bad on knees) is a great leg/cardio workout. I like to do 11-12 stories per set, 2 sets. Consider driving for doordash/postmates/uber eats, etc to make money in many different cities, transferring is relatively easy. Buy a bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol, bandaids, antibiotic cream, Philips sonic care toothbrush, floss, and most importantly, a King James bible. Jesus Christ is God.
Winter/cold is a blessing. Sleeping bags, blankets, beenies keep you comfy. The worst part of car living is the heat of the summer. Consider Seattle in the summer where it doesn't get too hot. I like the other anon's idea about a hybrid that lets you run A/C at night, but many cars aren't Fit for a bed. SUVs and minivans do well.
>Run a thick enough copper power cable through the firewall and connect a pure sine wave power adapter
*power inverter

Pure sine wave is best for laptops and such, also for charging sonic care toothbrush, shaver, etc.
I used to live in Victoria, TX and I had a great time. Lots of friends, etc. I moved to San Antonio, TX due to getting married and guess what? I have lots of friends and have a great time. My wife and I are moving to Austin and when we get there we're going to have a great time and make lots of friends. It doesn't matter where you are, you will make the most of it. We bought our house for $150,000 seven years ago and we paid $11,000 for the down payment. My advice would be to take that $10,000 and buy a house. Where ever you are, just make the most of it. Buying a house now will essentially put a freeze on the housing market price increases. As other houses get more expensive, your house will go up in value right along with them. So when you're ready to buy an even bigger house, your current house will be worth a lot of money to help you pay for it. Don't get cucked by landlords or living in a car that's going down in value every day. Be your own man and buy a garage for that car. You will get much further in life by doing this. Pick a spot, settle down, and make the most of it. Join social clubs. My wife and I joined the San Antonio Sports and Social League playing kickball. We got on a random team of people we didn't know, but we all played together and had a common goal each week - win. As the seasons went on we kept signing up with each other and became friends. We learned each other's strengths and got better and better until we were winning the championship each season. Now we go camping together, meet up at bars for drinks, etc. You'll make friends anywhere if you participate in social clubs. Do some research online to find a place you like. Small towns next to a big town will generally be cheaper to live in, give you some peace and quiet at night, and afford you lots of job opportunities since you can travel to the big town for work. Save your money to buy a house and make the most of it.
My aunt tried this recently and she didn’t make it past day 5 living in her car.


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let's play a game, DIY. you gotta move a (small) collection of your belongings from point A (pennsylvania) to point B (carolinas). your mission is to find the cheapest way possible to move all of your belongings from point A to B. what do you do?

my starting thought was to just buy a shipping container after i buy property and leave it there. don't have to pay for storage that way, put a security camera up around it so no drug addicts get to it without prosecution.

you got your mission. build some great ideas. you all might be here someday, too!
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Your people are happy to sell us land, eager for the civilization urban sophisticates bring to the benighted yokels of the Hookworm Belt.
Trailer rentals are typically cheaper if you have a vehicle that can pull it. But if you’re dropping it off at another location, prices can be all over the place. Red state to blue state, rental will be cheap. Blue state to red state, it will cost you a lot more than renting it for 2 days and returning it to the same location you picked it up.
Prestage your shit, you need to know how much space you need to move. Don't move in may or August. If you are near a military installation, on either end, you will also need to keep their transfer schedules in mind. Also don't move in July, its hot as fuck.

Any extra cost of U-Haul over the others is made up by their low tailgates and loading ramps. It is worth paying more, I've moved too many times and any truck you can easily hop in and out of is worth paying more.

If you can move in stages, a towable trailer is an option.

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I live in WA and I want to purchase a general purpose plot of land to build shit on. I have no specific goals; I'd like a modest agricultural operation with perhaps a home and some miscellaneous dwellings.

With regards to zoning, how should I be filtering for properties which would allow this? I am primarily interested in the Olympic Peninsula and everything south of it. I am not necessarily opposed to anything East of the cascades either (where I assume things are a bit more available and relaxed).

Any input bros? /out/ is full of fucking retards. They just tell me to put up a RV and live off the land but I know that isn't how life works
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Not sure what you're asking for here.

Pretty universal, zoning is a local thing ... if you're outside of an incorporated city limit then there is none to concern yourself with.

County may have some high level development framework to take a look at and as usual there might be some reserve or wildlife management issues you will have to be aware of. As in buying land near where they've been trying to get a regional airport funded for the last 20 years probably isn't ideal.

As far as incorporated zoning, I guess you'd be looking at R or A. I don't believe you could be prevented from dropping a trailer on a low density industrial area but why would you want to. Ag land is going to be zoned pretty damn large, you know actual farms, and likely out of your cost plan.

It all depends on where you live, you have to do the research. Some towns are significantly larger than their incorporated limits. The outer reaches are usually unzoned or just broadly zoned.

I don't know shit about Washington state, but it looks like you're targeting the most expensive part of it.

Anyways, residential zoning is typically R with a designator for density such as LMH accompanied by a number. That number is the minimum street frontage of the lot. L is single family dwellings and so on.
Olympic peen here. Bumping because I'm curious as well.
I guess my problem is that I have no understanding of how to navigate the various zoning and designations for land. For example, I found an 'unzoned' plot of land but the property is designated as forest land.


I have no idea what the fuck this means or the implications of it. I see some properties don't include mineral rights or water rights or only have 'surface' water rights and a bunch of other shit. There is no index or glossary on the internet detailing this shit.
Your county tax office may be able to direct you to the applicable parts of the legal code.
Yes, according to that website that classification is kept for people actually wishing to run a logging operation. There is another section there explaining the requirements for even transferring that type of land. You can't even buy it and keep the designation without having a formal business plan.

A big factor in these things is property taxes, they don't tax farm or in this case forestry at the same rates as residential. If you actually wanted to build on that land you'd need to lose the designation or if there was enough land, separate out an acre or two to drop.

Yeah technically it isn't zoned but it has a special use category. There's no harm in actually calling someone and asking questions. The big thing is the assessment for removing the forestry classification. Might be peanuts, might be substantial.

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