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Pic related.

I scratched the front lower right bumper on my Silverado 2018. It’s a work truck trim so the bumper is steel.
Where could I get a paid code?
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live with the damage. if anyone snooty asks about it say that it got that scratch when the guy on the lot was driving it out of where it was when you bought it
ignore these faggots OP>>22439114>>22439162
god forbid you wanna keep your truck nice and clean. i would not fuck with that using a touch up pen it will come out looking like shit. find a few high rated body shops from yelp and get some estimates
Fucking pavement queens
I think 2018 is when they changed to the QR code system. Check the door jamb sticker to see if there is a QR code on there and if there is scan it. That will give you a list of all your RPO codes and at the end of the list there will be a four character code and that will be your paint code.
Imagine having bumpers that are metal and unpainted.

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>no VIN check thread
Can we have a VIN check thread?
I can't check VINs, but hopefully someone lurking here can.
Starting off with JN1CA31D1YT519116
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euro toyota
thanks in advance
Vinbro has moved on. He said he was getting another job by the end of last year
would be nice if there's still someone here to check

DRZ 400

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what's your favourite segment of any race track, real or from a game?

>Laguna Seca
>coming up over a hill and then suddenly into the corkscrew, gaining speed downhill and then after picking up a little more speed through a short straight you're into the deceptively tricky turn 9

don't know why but it feels great every time
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Nice taste anon.
When you brake just enough to carry speed across the apron and avoid clipping the corner on exit, it feels amazing.
Turns 2 through 5 of Road Atlanta.
Suzuka, those S curves
that's a good one. I think I like it because after the first two it feels so much quicker

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Are these guys legit? My $400 order has been stuck in a city for a week without updates and I'm wondering if Cletus the forklift operator ran it over and threw it away notifying nobody. I don't want to do a chargeback but it's probably going to come to this if they only agree to refund me $170 for the item itself and not the rest of the $230 that went towards shipping. First time buying something big enough to need freight companies involved and I'm honestly not impressed.
>freight companies
that is your mistake buddy, unless you are a company, idiot delivery drivers will destroy your shit and charge you extra for not making it idiot proof and having them do their job. Try tracking it down if not just charge back and move on.
It was probably Jaquondrius da fohkleft driver #icantbreathe

>89k miles
>Wants $8900

Wot do? I know the engines were strong in these.
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Assuming there's frame/mechanical damage
Yes ma’am amen
What kibd id retard pays 9k for a used nissan with Nearly 100k? Use for 3 years and youll lose your ass.

Buy a new car. Use inflation to you advantage. Buy something you can sell after using it for good money
>kibd id retard
What did he mean by this?
Is he missing a chromosome?
Is he just below 65 IQ?

Imagine calling someone a retard and spelling both “kibd” and “id” wrong.
That's a shame. I think they're cool cars... a way to get 370Z with back seats. Unfortunately they attract shadey people who crash the shit out of them and cheaply repair them.
I always like the trumpet-like exhaust note.

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Guys I'm having trouble making my final choice on these models
-2019 Kia Optima
-2019 Kia Niro
-2019 Hyundai Kona
-2019 Hyundai Sonata
-2019 Hyundai Veloster
-2019 Volkswagen Golf

In the US. Looking to here what you guys think
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If random strangers aren't paying attention to my car at all times my balls will fall off
stop looking at new cars dipshit
All of those are dogshit garbo supreme. Don't buy anything Hyundai-KIA and don't buy anything made by kr*uts.
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2018 Golf was a 1.8L turbo 4 making 170 hp
2019 Golf is a 1.4L turbo 4 making 140 hp

If you're getting a Golf, get a 2018 or spend a little more and get a GTI.
>akko poster is a retard
top kek

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This might be a dumb question to ask on /o/ but I'm going to give it a shot.

Would you rather buy a brand new car, or use the money to take something older and make it your own?

My Honda is starting to show its age and I'm trying to decide what to do next.
>use the money to take something older
>make it your own
That's Mexican/nigger speak for turning a car into a trashfire.

Old cars of note hold their value or will make me more money. Those old cars aren't Honda Civics or base model Corvettes.
Old cars cost as much as new cars to make perfect. Fact.
I'd rather buy a modern car and keep it nice. Instead of an old shit box that cost $500 a month in random repairs. And I still won't have a good car.
You buy a new car for the warrantee so you don't have to worry about wrenching on it yourself as you daily it.

If I was going to mod a used car to go fast, I'd make sure I have a car with forced induction from day 1. E55 AMG, 335i/335d BMW, etc etc.
It depends on the car. If it's a sportscar then you buy it new. If it's some mass production unit like a sedan or pickup then there's no harm buying used.

If you were to buy a pickup truck, any year with low miles, what would you go for? I'd like to pick up a mid-90s Ford F-250 with a 7.3 liter powerstroke or whatever big diesel engine Ford was making back then.

I love that trucks have utility. Trucks can do things that cars cannot. They can be fun to drive, too. I needed to get lumber and bags of dirt for gardening, and I couldn't take my effeminate and practical Kia Sportage. I had to take my dad's old beatup manly Chevy truck. The truck showed its value.

What kind of trucks do you like, and why do you like them? I love both Ford and Chevy, oddly enough since it's usually one or the other with American brands. I've heard good things about Toyota, but I've never driven one.
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I have done it. People love to see these trucks working.
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the 8.1 is better than a duramax, fag

I'm looking at buying a used RAV4 in the 10k price range. I'm in Europe and for that money I would get something in the range of 2008-2012 at about 130k-200k km's. It seems that many of the models where used by construction workers or farmers and seem pretty abused on the inside.

What would recommend looking out for with these models? I think they are still quite pricey, even in less then ideal conditions. But if they are as good as people claim, how much millage can I expect without major issues? Would you dare going for an automatic at this age? I would highly prefer auto, but I understand that it's a huge gamble with used cars.

Any alternatives aside from the obvious ones Honda CR-V, Subaru Forester? From what I see the RAV4 is probably more reliable, but the others are significantly cheaper. So I don't know.
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Do gypsy Travellers use them to pull caravans m8?
2015-2019 rav4 or crv? On paper crv in that era look slightly better, but there seem to be a lot more worrying reports and recalls, any ideas?
I bought my wife a V6 Sport and had to replace the front wheel bearings too. I don't get why they had to have this problem. Other than that, dependable and quick.
I have a RAV4 V6, which a lot of people here seem to have, and it's been really dependable other the the front wheel bearings (which seems to be a V6 issue). Since you probably didn't get it in your country, it's pretty safe to say the 4 banger will be even more dependable.
If I have any complaints, it'd be that mine rides like crap and there's a lot of road noise... then again that could come from having the Sport package with 18" wheels.
I prefer the Hando RVC

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What are you working on /o/? I'm replacing the tranny on a 04 golf. it's rusted quite a bit. Can we have a share thread/help? I also want to see what people are doing.

What is the small line that is connect to tranny? I can't get it off and not sure how to approach it.
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We call them /weekend wrench/ not Shares and Tips.
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Getting my ass kicked by a cayenne that needs a new high pressure pump. Intake, turbo, and oil cooler have to come out
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Finished sanding, priming and painting the backside of my rear quarter panels and some other random spots. Honestly looking down at the old rust does spots and seeing a gleaming 3 coat acrylic paint coat on top of 2 coats of rust killer gets my engine running.
It’s nuts. My sister’s 2012 from Chicago is fucking rusting out, I’m so used to working on cars from up there then I come down to FL and have this 2004 van I need to do a bunch of shit to, and I have been able to get every single nut and bolt off so far. I was 90% sure I was going to strip the bleeders on the brake calipers a couple months ago but I went at them with a 6pt socket to start and they actually came loose.

I’ll share a random pic of some tools that make life much easier for even a weekender. Sometimes a $15 pair of specialty pliers will save you an hour of headaches and potentially breaking good parts when removing stuff.

Also learn how to use a multimeter. Will save you from throwing parts at the thing.
>What are you working on?
Two rusted machines. '01 Subaru Legacy L wagon I got for $100. Need to repair a crack in the radiator. A far less rusted but still rusty '05 Envoy my grandfather gave me when he upgraded to an Equinox. His daily is still his WRX. I'm trying to replace the shattered exhaust header (Thanks GM, you broke physics!) and the A/C clutch that tried to friction weld itself shut.
Yay rust.

Post tough yet practical wagons
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VLs are pretty nice though
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What is rod and or cover and plug?
If you cannot answer this you should not own any commodore from VK to VP.
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>noooo you don't fit my criteria to own this item
In reference to what? Pushrod? Conrod? Ecu cover which always leaks on VL's? Cam cover? etc etc.
Also what sort of random assortment is vk to vp given they're all drastically different and why differentiate a K from an H.

Sorry if retarded question, but I got an email from CarFax saying that my 100,000 mile service is due. I didn’t know what this was so I opened the email and it took me to my CarFax account (which I forgot I made) it had my registered vehicle with all the service history for the past 17 years. According to the sight it’s saying my car has 113,000 when it actually has 88,000. Apparently it’s been estimating the driving it thinks I do and has been logging it at 13,000 miles a year. My question is is this what is being shown when someone does a CarFax report on my car? Or is this like a personal log for my car?
CarDox has all your shit nigga
they see it when they buy the Carfax or make an account with the VIN. you can change the mileage manually
I’ve tried to but it won’t let me. It can’t be less than what CarFax already has registered. I would’ve thought this would be more secure and be able to be screwed up by retards like me.

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>it's cheaper to just buy a tesla battery
Whats the point of a manual gearbox on a motor? Wouldnt you just want direct drive/a reduction gear for optimal track performance and then maybe an overdrive gear to keep the motor in an efficient range on the highway?
Laptop cells are more storage cells. You would want to use tool batteries as they put out more amperage.

Motors aren't miracle devices. They still have power and torque bands. A transmission lets you keep them in that sweet spot. It would also let you use a smaller motor instead of using a big motor and thousands of amps to get going. Yes motors make their torque way down low but they also draw the most current getting going from a stall.

It would be like going from a big block with a two speed powerglide to a modern small displacement turbo engine with a 10 speed. The first one works but the latter is way more efficient.
They are pretty widely available used from wrecked cars, but Volt batteries seem to be an even better option for price/performance.
Model 3 powertrains are going to be really great for kit/conversions once more of them get totaled.

The only real issue using a transmission designed for ICE is that you can't exceed the performance of the original engine by too much and you're not going to be able to get the same degree of crazy acceleration. Though they'll still be quicker than the original gas car. Especially for stuff like the Beetle.
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Post gorgeous but mechanically shitty cars
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Personally I prefer the L67 supercharged motor but a lsj pulled from a cobalt ss would also work
Are you kidding me? They are rust buckets and literal fire hazards.
rust and catching fire in an accident aren't reliability issues, though...
kys faggot
I suspect you are the mechanical retard but I dont have a degree in retardology to confirm

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My N54 runs HOT. I'm tracking it this season and I'm ordering a 5" FMIC to help mitigate the high as fuck IAT. I really wanna add 2 hood vents to each side of the hood. Nothing gaudy because I genuinely want to cool down. I don't give a fuck for looks because it's my track car. Any reccommendations to anyone who's done something similar? New CF hood with vents are around $600 and I could use that money for a cage and harness so I'm gonna hold off. Mainly looking to bandaid the problem for my first track events since I'm already gutting it. Pic related but I'm only going to do either 1 at the top or 2 on the sides. It's garaged so I don't have to worry about rain and like I said IAT is already hot af and so the engine bay is relatively set for driving in the rain. Regardless like I said it's not a daily.
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Oil, but according to the BMW community this is normal. My goal is to get it lower ever so slightly so I don't heat soak and enter limp mode on the track
A lower temperature thermostat won't do shit for you. All the thermostat does is regulate when the bypass to the radiator is opened. While it will increase the time to increase the temperature of the coolant to hot from cold, it ultimately won't make a difference on the track where you're putting enough heat into the system to heat it to operating temperature and above very quickly. It would be more useful to turn the fan on at a lower threshold. See link. https://motoiq.com/project-viper-gts-part-11-understanding-the-factory-temp-gauge/

You've got some of the right ideas. A cool car is a happy car. I'm going to guess like most late model German cars, you've got an oil-water heat exchanger somewhere (stacked rectangular plates near the oil filter, usually). So, part one is managing water temperature. If you can fab ducting for the front radiator, that will massively help with the efficiency of the radiator, as air will seek lower resistance paths around gaps besides the radiator and intercooler. Turning the fan on earlier or all the time will massively help in making sure air is kept moving around. If you're in a very hot climate, particularly one that doesn't get cold in the winter, consider reducing the glycol percentage in your coolant mix, or eliminating it entirely and combining it with a water wetter product to increase the heat removal by coolant. Remember to make sure sufficient anti-corrosion product is added in if you remove the coolant glycol component.

It's my belief that any high output car taken out on to the track should have some sort of oil cooling. As I understand it, N54s had provisions for oil coolers from the factory, meaning it shouldn't be hard to tap in an oil cooler (preferably with a thermostat, for street use. cold oil is no bueno).
As for managing heat under the hood, manifold wraps and turbo blankets aren't a bad start, and they help protect rubbers and plastics from dying. Keep in mind tubing wrap will retain moisture in the fabric, causing rust issues. If you're going to get an aftermarket manifold, maybe consider having it ceramic coated.

Hood vents certainly help, if designed correctly. There's something to be said about placement of said vents for the optimal extraction of high pressure air under the hood. See the following. https://www.flyinmiata.com/support/instructions/misc/louvers.pdf

Don't forget about brake cooling! Front and back. Porsches have these simple clip on ducts or air guides that channel air to the rotors. Plenty effective for 20 minute track sessions at stock (300 hp) power levels.

You might have $600 for a cage/seat/harness, but at the end of the day, if your car doesn't make it home from the track, you're going to have a bad day. I'd rather beat the piss out of a car I know is going to be reliable under the extra track stress than have a race seat and harness. I can tie myself in to a stock seat well enough to feel pretty good about my sitting position (move seat back, put on belt, tighten it by hand, yank it so it locks, move seat forward to original position. Locked in place! Power seats makes it easier).

Fuck yeah thanks for the write up anon, def going to research this more tommorow before I start fabbing up stuff. Definitely going to look into rerouting air to accomodate brake cooling.

Can you increase oil cooler size, or add an additional one? I would also consider used oil analysis, to confirm that the oil can keep up with what you are asking of it.

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