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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

Just picked up this new Dewalt toolbox and holy shit is this thing junk. You can see the chink a mile away in the poorly molded plastic and cheap metal clips. Dewalt, Ryobi, Craftsman, etc... were all great American brands. Why is it all CHINK trash now?
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Morons going to moron.
because jews only care about money you fucking idiots
obviously false statement is obviously false
>it's a pretty universal trait.

No it is not. Some people will literally sell a car with bad breaks to an old woman because she believes them when they say the car is fine. Some other people would not sell that car to anyone without making sure they understand how bad the brakes are.

In other words, anon, not everyone is like you appear to be.
>car with bad breaks

jesus christ I've been on /o/ too much lately.

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Thread hymn.


Last thread: >>1638309

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
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nice, does it come with a pallet system?
Nope, just vises and my hands. Very small shop, we really have no way of getting anything fancy yet.

It's why I'm squeezing that HSS drill so hard. I wish I could afford nicer tools...
worth it
I know, but those decisions are out of my hands. I come up with the program, tooling, workhokding, setup, run, quality control. Boss is the one that decides what money is spent where, so I make do with what I have.

I told him it would be worth it, he said "maybe next month".

i meant working at a small shop so if it actually succeeds you will be one of the head haunchos and get to order around all the plebs

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We have a power line with a load that is almost completely inductive.

If I've understood it right it's just the reactive component of the current drawn by the load what turns into heat in the wire's equivalent resistor. Then, if the load draws let's say 100 amps why do we need a wire with a size rated for more than 100 amps if it's not going to heat up?
idk surge

You need wire rated for 100 amps because there will be 100 amps flowing through it and it will heat up
>If I've understood it right it's just the reactive component of the current drawn by the load what turns into heat in the wire's equivalent resistor.

All the current through a resistor heats it. You don't understand what reactive means, and you probably don't understand anything else you said. How the fuck were you tasked with this problem?

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Pic somewhat related.
I'm trying to build a chest with a lid. The top will have to swing up (see pic). But the top will be about 3 inches high. And the chest will be pushed up against a wall with very little clearance (maybe 1/4"). So the lid will have to move forward as it is lifted in order to clear the wall. This means that the hinges (mounted inside the cabinet) will need a relatively complex geometry.

I don't know what such a hinge would be called in order to Google for the hardware. Any ideas or leads?
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look at various "concealed cabinet hinge"s and you might find what you need or get some inspiration to look for what you do need.

There are many styles that rotate on different offsets axis or geometry, and in steps. examples: rotate on axis, extend then pivot, pivot on offset point axis, etc

pic related

also see: coffee table lift mechanism for more complex examples
True, but customers are also usually ignorant, and it's your job to educate them. If there's baseboard you have at least 1/2", and with shoe you'll have a full inch probably. You could easily ask the customer to confirm this, and it won't even sound like you're going against their wishes.
Try googling “zero clearance hinges”
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like this (except flush)?

OP said "3 inches high". No damn hinge can do that except maybe some industrial monster.

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Hey /diy/, I'm in need of some feedback on how to construct a simple relay circuit.

I am trying to power on/off my power amplifier with my reciever. My reciever outputs 12VDC@100mA when it is powered on. If I bridge the aux port on my power amplifier it will enter sleep mode. So I am looking for a Normally Closed relay which would operate at 12VDC@100mA. I'm really out of league here seeing as I know barely anything about electronics. Any input is appreciated!

Pic sort of related
I'd say your best bet is something like this. I work with industrial control panels and we use similar ones that are better rated, but this should probably work. One side powers the coil and the other side has common, NC, and NO terminals. You can usually swap the coils for different voltages depending on what you need. Also you probably only need single pole double throw but this will work the same.

Uxcell a15062300ux0219 IEC255 DC 12V Coil 8Pin DPDT Electromagnetic Power Relay with Socket Base https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017LB4AZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F2FlDbJFRRDP7

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How would you do this, /diy/?
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Maybe it does in Germany

Also I made a solenoid and it worked, so this: >>1648020 is a feasible solution to an ages old problem. Right now I experimented with just an iron bolt, but I'll later print a piston cap to see if the displacement is enough.

Also I'm a bit of brainlet and assumed you could push the steel core away with a single core, turns out it will always attract the core no matter the polarity, so the coil needs to be such that it will lift the piston a bit, and drop it while it's off. No need for magnets, but I won't be able to use 60hz ac. I need to make a coil winder too, my coil looked like absolute garbage.
>with a single core
*With a single coil

With multiple coils you can switch them in a certain order and make your iron slug move anywhere you want
You could try it axial style something like this.

You could probably do many boards at once with this type of setup, if you mount them right.

You probably only need 1 axis for this, or you could build 2 axis and do some moulding on the side.
shuttle valve
Shuttle valve has both check valves pointing outward

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Is it shit?
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I worked at a Manards for 3 years and made it into management before I bailed.
It's Walmart for rednecks. The cheapest shit is absolute dogshit, the expensive stuff is only moderate dogshit. The return policy is pretty great though.
As an organization, it's a fucking abusive shitshow. They hire about 95% internally for management and you don't get promoted without drinking the flavoraid.
Every hardware department is a cluster fuck since it's a black hole of money, and that means the department management doesn't get shit for their bonuses which make up 20+% of their pay. As such nobody decent stays in hardware longer than 3 months.
The lumber yard is pretty decent if you don't mind it being a unsafe cluster fuck staffed by 18yos with more muscle than brains.
The staff are frequently pissy because they are on their 2nd or 3rd close open of the week, and leaving at 11:30-12:30 and being back on the clock at 7am doesn't make for pleasant staff.
>t. Menards team member
This guy knows what's up. I had a friend who's father was a Menards store manager for years. He eventually left because they wanted to move him to the home office. The friend, and a few others I knew, also worked there. I heard all about the shit they'd do.
As a former employee I don't normally defend Menard's or some of their business practices but I can tell exactly the type of employee you were there by you're exaggerated bitching. The Menards family are legendary ass holes but they visit each store at most once a year although the general office does stop a few more times.

They have a program trying to hire managers from outside. If you have a bachelor's degree they pay you to do on the job training then give you a department or store management position.

Most of the hardware department when I was there had been around 5+ years.

The only time you work past 30 minutes after closing is in preparation for Black Friday. The only people that work even close to open-close are 1st assistant managers on their solo weekends.

The yard is full of apes though you're right about that.

I worked at a well performing store so my experience may have been different but I've had worse jobs.
t. retard

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Why the fuck are subcontractors such lazy unreliable drug addicts?
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concrete guys who poured my porch were shittier than the sub who built the porch on top.
Lol no. Try getting one into a backyard in established suburbs
why are porches not made of wood anymore? they look way better
I have zero experience and am near the end of my rope, this is preferable, I think, to just browsing 4 Chan all day.

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>He cannot read Chinese edition

Old thread: >>1644589

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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I do
Do people actually like Ender 3s? Seems like a reddit circle jerk printer. I’d rather recommend somebody an i3 clone.
I haven't used anything other than my 3x so I don't really have an opinion
for the €150 I got it for, it just werks
no mods no nothing, just followed a youtube guide on how to set it up 'properly' and it's worked perfectly ever since
Well, makes sense to try to minimize the moving masses.
It makes more sense to design with moving mass in mind, not just blindly pursue weight reduction.
[imagining an apple 3d printer with glued-in, soldered-in battery]
Among other things, reducing weight is useless if resonances make your lighter gantry ghost.

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I want to get into watchmaking. What tools do I need get into horology? What's the best introduction to it?
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Probably your best bet is to look into getting into quartz watch repair (you can get the movements pretty cheap) and focus on surface work. Ie work on strap replacements, replacing crystals, replacing gaskets, maybe some face work.

Once you get used to that and start collecting some tools you might want to look at "building" your own watch. Otto Frie is my go to tool place.
As someone who has actually studied this, take an introductory class from TimeZone Watch School. It will cost you a few hundred dollars but you'll have an idea of the workings of a mechanical watch and an ETA 2801 watch. The base class doesn't go into advanced topics like proper oiling or replacing jewels, not that you're going to drop another few hundred on the tools required to do so. If you go through all their classes and decide you want to make a career out of it, try and get into a SAWTA school (http://www.sawtacertification.org/the-schools), it's a 2-year full-time program.
The best introduction is probably the Timezone course or one of the Mark Lovic courses.

I went to school and have been doing it professionally for 20 years. But for a year or so before school I would work on them to get practice, with a set of screwdrivers a couple of pairs of tweezers movement holder and like one type of oil and a fine oiler. Parts cleaned in lighter fluid. With just those tools you can do basic work. I had a jewelry supply house in my town and got good Dumont tweezers and real screwdrivers; the local library had several books on the subject. You can do it.
>good Dumont tweezers and real screwdrivers
Dumonts are based but I have a set of nice Bergeon screwdrivers and they suck ass - the set screws that hold the blades in the handle come loose and allow the blades to slide up and down, and the blades themselves chip and deform so easily. For the kind of money I paid (I think it was $250 for an 8-screwdriver set), I'd expect some carbide tips or some shit. At least hardened tool steel.

Homebrew General
Ferment your Piss Edition
Previous Thread >>1596780
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Illegal at a federal level unless you get a permit. That said, >>1647839 has the info you want.
Made ginger beer but it turns out my wild yeast/ginger bug is weak. Fermented away for like two weeks but still sweet even though I didn't put too much sugar in. Transfered some to a 2 liter and added bread yeast cause I had it handy, been fermenting away mostly just want to get carbonation, but I never took gravity readings so no idea how much sugar is still in there.
Got another gallon going, thinking once it stop I'm gonna transfer it to a clean carboy and pitch a bit of ec-1118 and let it go completely dry, then just adding a bit of priming sugar at bottling for carbonation. Of course if I'm using the 1118 I could go ahead and add a bunch more sugar too since I know it can chew through it... I dunno lol.
Maybe we are all connecting from Angola...
possible to brew a decent beer in only 2-3 weeks? have all of august to go at it but that includes prep/setup work (first week)
set up shouldn't take a week maybe like an hour.
You could finish a beer in that time just pitch enough yeast to ferment quickly. What are you brewing? Do you know what your starting gravity will be?

I'm looking for help on improving this flowchart.

The backstory is that I was browsing /diy/ earlier today, and I saw this thread where someone was trying to fix a speaker of some sort. It was clear that this anon was a total beginner (not much troubleshooting skills, didn't own a multimeter, etc). He was trying to replace some old electrolytic caps that were clearly bad, but wasn't sure why it still wasn't working.

Anyway, several anons jump in with suggestions like: reflow the entire board in your oven, remove every cap and measure it and resolder it, purchase a several hundred dollars piece of test equiptment to measure capacitance in circuit, etc.

So I'm sitting there noticing that no one has stated the obvious yet. Things like is it plugged in? Is the fuse blown? You know, all of the extremely fast, simple, and free stuff to check first. Instead, all these anons were giving instructions on how to do a deep analysis of the circuitry without even asking for a pic of the OPs solder job. They just weren't picking up on the fact that OP was a noob, and was looking for basic advice. It erks me because people that want to show off how they're all (t. electronics expert) don't even know the basics of troubleshooting. Instead of starting with the simplest, non-destructive things, they reveal how little they know by recommending something stupid difficult (to a beginner) AND destructive.

That shit happens all the time around here, so I wanted to make a flow chart to just get the basics out of the way. Just a picture that you can reply to the OP with, saying ---did you check all this stuff FIRST?---

So I sat down and spent the last 20 minutes throwing this flowchart together in PowerPoint, but I can't spend too long on it, so I'm wondering if any other anons have suggestions, contributions, or can point out things I missed.
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I read it wrong at first as well dude, chill out.
I love how easy it is to spot someone who doesn't know their shit because without testing anything the first assumption is almost always
>caps are bad

Capacitor plague is long over and in my experience it's pretty rare that caps, including electrolytics, are sources of failure in most electronics these days.

Typically in most of the circuits I'm working on I find it's simple semiconductors like diodes and discrete transistors that fail. In switched mode power supplies in particular it's typically transformers and the output rectifier diode. In many cases it's a cascading failure where one component failing took out loads of other stuff down the signal path.

Of course there's no gospel for how things will failure. There's all sorts of reasons things die: transient voltage spikes or ESD, user incompetence (reverse polarity, wrong voltages, etc.), defective components, poor solder quality, bad circuit design, ant took a leak on your board and shorted two traces, etc. Anyone competent should be able to narrow down the cause of failure starting with the most likely failure mode for a given device and working heuristically towards the root cause.
bump for thread visibilty
Apart from the first decision box being wrong, you mean?
Sounds like we need a general decision tree for the absolute first step, then maybe a different tree for each of the main topics after that (power supplies, audio circuit, digital circuit, auto, motor, etc).

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I need to spray some paint about 15-20 feet. Can I take the nozzle from a can of wasp killer and put it on spray paint?
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True vandals know to use a water fire extinguisher. Those can shoot about 20 feet. OP is a faggot toy

OP isnt gonna carry that around when he goes to rob people because he wants to use this method to spray the security cameras
>not vandalizing shit is bootlicking
Literal Nigger
fuck off you retarded piece of shit
>fuck off you retarded piece of shit

Comes here asking retarded question.
Calls others "retarded" when they call him out on his niggering ways.
Fucking Jamal... Always gets upset when people with more than three brain cells call him out on his niggering.

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So I woke up to a cold shower this morning and once going down stairs to check the water heater it had water covering the floor around it. If any of you know what's wrong plz post
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A water heater needs to be replaced ever 15 years or so. Even more often if your water supply is wonky.
I dunno, tank could be rusted out and leaking, put the pilot flame out.
The water is supposed to be INSIDE the thing not outside.
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Every time the pilot light turns on it pumps out a ton of water so its probably leaking but thanks anon

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