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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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My friend had built me one of the shitty china girl bikes which broke in a few months of riding, being unreliable and all, so I decided to build one from the frame up. Tried to go for a cafe racer style, but I realized I was in over my head and prioritized functionality and reliability. Any suggestions?
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Steal a couple of those shitty rental scooters for the batteries. That'll cover half the cost.
Motors themselves are pretty good, despite being hand wound. I never had issues with them.
But ECUs are mixed bag. Some keep breaking, while others (which use PCB from XCMMCU for example) are fucking bullet-proof. I accidentally 42V on 5V, shit survived.
I tried my best to look for quality parts, If you could link me to where I can find top of the line shit, for my 2nd bike it would be much
Thinly veiled bragging thread.
I do think its in the top 10% of these things in the looks category. Good job OP.
How do you even go about building something like the OP?

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Update: Pretty much finished. Will have test run posted by the end of this week.
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OP here again. Did a test run yesterday.

tldr: didnt work cus gas flow

Basically, the regulator on the propane cylinder didnt provide enough pressure from what I understand. (pic related is the regulator). At a speed of 22.5Krpm, the pressure increase (37mbar) from the compressor is equal to the pressure of the gas from the cylinder so it cut off the gas flow. Since the pressure inside the engine is equal to the gas from the regulator. In addition, the max gas volume flow (1.5kg/h) is only enough to sustain a speed of coincidentally 22.5Krpm.

Will try again when I get a new regulator/use a smaller can without a regulator.
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Pic related was the test setup
Thanks for the update.
Keep me posted.
Hell yes
Nice, video on working fan pls

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I work in a paper mill this summer, where I need to change sawblades on the production lines every other day or so, and it's a real pain. It's fitted to a motor under the floor that's only accessible through a thin slot in the floor. It's a really poor design.

The blade itself is hung from a crane, but the 10 kg plate holding it in place is placed by hand. It's really hard balancing it on the finger tips while reaching down a small slot in the floor, trying to align it with the motor, while doing my best not to cut my face on the blade. This also has to be done with one hand since you need to screw it in place with the other.

So I want to hang the plate from the crane as well, but it's tricky since it needs to hang perfectly vertical, and there can't be anything between the plate and the blade when it's fitted. I've thought about using strong magnets, but I doubt it would be strong enough.

tl;dr how do i securely hang a 10 kg plate with almost no edges from a crane?
I don't know, tell your employee to give you help and protection gear
10/10 paint job, would save and look again

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any creative ways to get one of these out of a base of a office chair? with out hammering and making alot of noise.

I tried a pipewrench and its no bueno
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Cool the cylinder and heat up the base, use penetrating fluid to lube it, tie something to the cylinder and yank it while keeping the base in place (reverse hammering)
Use something like a vice to push it out
Wtf you can't get noise complaints for hammering a chair a few times...whet if you had to nail something into the wall? Would you just not do it? What if your baby is crying? Will you shake it so no one complains?
Are you replacing the cylinder and want to keep the chair in good shape or can the base be damaged in the process?
i have a new cylinder. i dont care about the old one i just want the fuckin thing out
take the chair outside and take it apart then bring it back in and no complaints.

What’s the most juryrigged thing you’ve ever done?
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Maybe the battery is the lesser problem in that bike, friend.
And you don't seem to understand...
This one hurts
You protected the splice, and that's what counts!
I'm sorry did you put that splice inside a fUckING TUPPERWARE CONTAINER???
that's an LS1 but i don't recognize the frame.
i think s10 is right
>rusty disc brake
oh fuck that

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deprecated thread: >>1634051

0. Electrics ≠ electronics. Appliances/mains stuff to /qtddtot/ or /sqt/. PC assembly to >>>/g/.
1. Do your own homework. Search web first. Re-read all documentation/datasheets related to your components/circuits. THEN ask.
2. Pics > 1000 words. Post relevant schematic/picture/sketch/9001.5 hours in MS Paint with all part numbers/values/etc. when asking for help. Focus/lighting counts.
3. Read posts fully. Solve more problems than you create.
4. /ohm/ is an anonymous, non-smoking general.

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements. Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat

>Project ideas:

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this guy's paying attention


Sam's Club member confirmed
no that guy sounds like a fag
What's a cheap place to get a small batch of boards made if you're in Europe?
Looking at ten or less boards with 4 layers, no fancy shit.
4-layer and cheap don't play well together, but did you look at aisler.de?
>4 layers
>no fancy shit
Actually what are you making the boards for? Never seen anyone here have to resort to more than two layers.

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Is it shit?
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Their house brand used to be tool shop which was Harbor Freight level. Then they switched to Masterforce which when I worked there the power tools were made by Hitachi. Other than those they carry Bosch, Hitachi, Bostitch, Ideal, Rothenberger, Stanley, and Wen off the top of my head. Some of the Masterforce hand tools are surprisingly decent especially for the price.
House brands like that use all different OE’s. Craftsman was the same when it was Sears. Ratchets were made by one company, screwdrivers another, pliers from a third company.

Isn’t the Tool Shop-Masterforce thing like the Husky-HDX at Home Depot? HDX is the cheap Chinesium, Husky is the stuff with a warranty.

I had these Masterforce tools for a bit from my dad. Didn’t use the right angle driver much but the drill met all my expectations. TBQHWY, they felt a bit cheaper than my newer brushless Ridgid, maybe like better Ryobi or Porter Cable, somewhere in that heavy duty homeowner tier or light duty professional. I read somewhere that early Masterforce was made by Makita, but I think Hitachi sounds more believable and I couldn’t find much in common comparing them to Makita. I was watching the prices to see if I could scoop a sawzall and another battery for a good deal but the best was like 11% rebate or 20% off clearance on old models and you might be better off getting a name brand at those prices.

I think those tools are in Jamaica now.
Walmart has fucked up my orders every single time I tried to do store pickup for something in stock. I’m pretty sure it’s because of all the nogs stealing and the lazy Haitians working there don’t give a fuck about inventory. Also I’m guessing some of the times they had the item in stock but lazy nogs working there couldn’t find it immediately so they gave up and put “out of stock”.

Problem is Walmart is super annoying trying to cancel the order. A couple months back I ordered a printer and a pack of paper for the girl from the store closest to her. They tell me the printer is out of stock and they’re ordering it but the paper is ready. So I had to “request cancellation” and the printer gets cancelled the next day but the paper is sitting there for days ready for pickup, and the charge for the entire thing was still on my card until maybe 5 days later I told her to pick up the paper while she was at the store anyway. As soon as they told me the printer was out of stock the first day, I ordered one from based Target instead and got a better deal on a nicer one that they had in stock and ready in like an hour. When Walmart does have the item in stock, they take like half a day to get your order together, and I think after 6pm they tell you to pick it up at noon the next day.

The one time Home Depot didn’t have something that was supposed to be in stock, they kicked out my whole order within an hour and I was able to order it all from the next closest store. That was at maybe 8pm too, they work quick with their online orders.

Walmart's online works great for things shipped to my house, but the one time I chose "pickup in store" it was one fuckup after another. Never again.
Their Masterforce brand makes really good hand tools for the price IMO - comparable to Kobalt but usually a couple bucks cheaper. The Menards by me also has great random endcap sales - picked up a set 2 of Irwin channellocks for 10 bucks and a Stanley hacksaw for 5 the other day. I always check them before the others but I live within 5 miles of all three.

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So I just bought my first house. I got a $4K credit back from the closing costs and already started buying my tools I'll need to do my own projects.
I have a general understanding of tools but almost no experience when it comes to home projects. I want general construction and electrical knowledge. Plumbing can come later.

My question is; can anyone recommend any shows that have a lot of good info? Shows that teach you techniques and tips instead of just watching a guy make stuff.

A renter left this when they bailed on the house this month and I doubt there's anything of value in there, but is there a way to open it and keep the locking mechanisms intact? It's in relatively good condition as is and a lockbox is a lockbox
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give it back, jamal
>a lockbox is a lockbox
Except that one is a terrible lockbox. You could probably rake that wafer lock open in a few seconds.
Serial number? I've got the locksmith software to hook you up
try 1234
Give it back, Jamal

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found this in my basement how fucked am i?
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yes that would be safer
and use some mold removal product, don't just rub it off
a grout sealer
thanks anon
That's toxic black mold. Are you a ghost?

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>apply for plumber apprentice position paying $11/hour
>they tell me I don't have the experience they're looking for
>guy says to work at home depot for 2+ years so I "learn the names of tools" before they'll even give me a call back
>tfw fell for the trades meme
Sounds about right, that's what happens when most trade fags are absolute retards. They ruin it for everybody.
Back in college I was hired to be an intern mechanic and the manager was visibly surprised when he saw that I could use hand tools without supervision.
I helped pay for college as a day laborer for a local small plumbing company. After I graduated, the owner pulled me aside and said "I'll give you the company when I retire if you can just get licensed. I can't trust any of these retards, including my son".
I didn't take the offer, because I'm not putting all my chips into a verbal promise that you can pull out from under me at anytime in the next 4 years, and also after college fuck going back to school for anything. I still think about what it would have been like, dude had mansions and shit, crazy money.
>bullshit wojak larp spambot thread

fuck you
Move to the Midwest, the companies here need every warm body they can get and it shows with the apprentices they've been taking for the last 2 years.

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Summer is coming in the northern hemisphere edition.

Previous thread --> >>1602467


In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?



> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)

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Disc loading is severely lower when the prop itself is moving forwards. Bench tests are static, so the prop has to do more work to "suck" the air in front of it in.
Is your current sensor even accurately calibrated?

Altitude does not make anywhere near that much difference. I've flown the exact same setup at sea level then at over 12,000ft & spent quite a while looking at the dataflash logs afterwards just out of curiosity - differences in anything were essentially imperceptible.
I need a d/c PSU for my ISDT Q6 Plus charger.

Ive been using a small 160 watt 27v charger that can do 7 amps to charge four 1500 mah on a parallel board at 6 amps.

But my batteries are old and I want to buy 8 more and I want to upgrade my setup so I can charge 8 at a time instead of four.

When I charge 4 packs at a time I use about 100 watts of power with the charger I have now. I plan on getting the Joshua Barwell parallel board that can fit 10 battery on at a time. And then a bigger PSU while still using my same ISDT charger. It can go up to 300 watts and 14 amps. If I charge 8 battery at a time at 1C then I will need about 200 watts and 12 amps. And I want a 24v+ d/c PSU.

I want the PSU to be silent so it has to be overbuilt. You are not supposed to exceed 80% of what a PSU is rated for. So if its rated for like 400 watts at 24v with 17 amps It should match up will with the Q6 charger.

I looked for PSU with those specs and they have one on bangood for $25. Its crap they break when you put them under load. And also Get FPV sells a PSU and RDQ sells another one they are both LED PSU's and the fan stops working on them and they get hot and fail. They cost about $50

Ive been waiting for awhile to upgrade my PSU because want something good and I dont know what to get. I dont like a loud fan going from my charger and my PSU because I will be in the same room the whole time its charging. My ISDT PSU is totally silent when its working.

I am looking at this PSU: https://www.banggood.com/SKYRC-EFUEL-380W-24V-16A-Power-Supply-Adapter-for-SKYRC-B6-Nano-ISDT-Q6-Plus-Charger-p-1348457.html?rmmds=category&cur_warehouse=CN

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I would put a few earplugs glued together between the plates as a dampener medium for less springy action and more dampening action.
I use my old 500W PC power source with a 10 ohm 10W fatigue resistor. It works with my TQ4 and four 4s 3400mAh batteries charging at 1C.

I literally know nothing about tools, what they do, what they’re called, what actually exists, how to fix things, the names of components, what components do, how to even begin a task because I don’t know what exists or where to start etc.

How do you guys know all of this stuff? How do you know what a Sawzall is or what all the things in a car are called or what they do? How do you know the difference between a bolt and a screw, and what you use each for, or what those numbers in front of their names mean? Where did you learn all of this stuff?
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Why does it matter though? It's not our job. We aren't expected to know how to swing a wrench in the same sense that you aren't expected to know how to read.
>Procced to design something that's impossible to assemble/disassemble or service.
>Anon engineer forgot that human hands are not quadruple jointed an toothpick skinny, he also forgot that connectors and wiring occupy space. We have to deliver the prototype tomorrow, fix it.
>3am it finally fits and doesn't look like total ass
>Next day
>Wow engineer you really delivered
When that happens, we've usually just got higher-order things to consider so it slips past. There are usually more important factors than whether or not Pajeet's job on the assembly line is easy.
More important factors than your design doing the bare minimum of functioning? You are terrible at your job, because you lack the tools/knowledge to do it effectively. Worse you seem to have no interest in attaining them. No matter how you spin it, being willfully ignorant will never make you look superior. you live in a bubble where your actions have no consequences and your bullshit is endlessly reenforced.
Absolutely seething.
I'm sorry you couldn't get into uni anon. Maybe you can change careers once your back and knees give out from all of that manual labour?

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How would you do this, /diy/?
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>almost everything you can buy commercially for this job will be using a peristaltic pump
False, pumps for industrial scale etching use ptfe-lined surfaces and are expensive as hell. I came up with a method to pump the fluid using 2 check valves and a piston to generate an alternating pressure inside a tube, that way the etchant won't ever spill everywhere since the pump is actuated via a pneumatic coupling. I have a lot of copper wire, so I can do this.

I am buying the board but sometimes I don't want to wait 1 - 4 weeks

I tried to make an airlift, I managed to pump a few drops, but it will take a lot of effort to make one that works reliably, so I went for a piston actuated by a solenoid coil instead
This is my design. I have some syringes, I have copper coil, etc. I searched pumps that work with the same principle and there are a lot of them. With a single diode, I should be able to power it from a 12v transformer, but also with a PWM circuit.
>not using copper chloride
>etching is the only step
It takes less then a week mong

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