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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Any sculptors on this board? I dunno if this is the board but may as well try; I'm wanting to get into sculpting my own figures so I can hotglue them. Looking for insight from sculpting anons as to their experiences
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What stone should I use, Google says soapstone which I've never heard of
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honestly, diorite probably is exactly what you want.
Plastiline clay (like Monster Clay) is easily sculpted, then you mold it in silicone (expensive though), then you cast it in resin. Have done this for a while, now I cast in metal but that takes a lot more time
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pour plaster into a milk / OJ carton that youve cut the top off of to produce a block of carveable plaster. you can do this for dirt cheap and make a new block whenever you get another carton.
There are people that make dolls out of polymer clay. Look for examples on Youtube like fairysnmypond or aprylian.
I use modelling clay because I'm poor and it takes some time to get good. It won't give you a smooth surface, but you can use small files or sandpaper.

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Is this legal? I bought new sets of Goetze piston rings and I receive this. These are 2 compression rings.
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5 hours no reply, geez.

It's a manufacturing defect. Get them replaced. You should have some sort of warranty or guarantee.
>Goatse rings
Buy something, it's wrong/broken, return it for a replacement. This is how shit works.
>Is this legal?
You're an idiot.

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Is it true you can just go to a construction site and ask if you can work there, and they may let you work on the construction?
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no, they'll just laugh at you and say apply online
skip to 30 sec in
>performed on some sixteen Korean combat casualties

>Demara disappeared to his room with a textbook on general surgery and proceeded to speed-read the various surgeries he was now forced to perform, including major chest surgery. None of the casualties died as a result of Demara's surgeries.
This is stupid boomer advice. It may work if the boomer boss is there and he likes you.
Just show up and start working. Don't even ask. This shows initiative to the boss.
OSHA regulations kind of make this sort of thing not viable. Too much liability.

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I plan to use it mounted on a tripod for my outdoor set up (photography)
Something like super glue but is known for being reliable and doesnt get undo suddenly and it has an antidote solution for when you want to remove it.

I thought of buying a case and using that as a mount, but I carry enough in my bag as it is.
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Get a piece of aluminium sheetmetal about 2mm thick with dimensions at least 50x100mm, preferrably 100x100mm. It could also be a disc with 100mm diameter or so.
Then, you need to fix the screw in your pic to the aluminium sheet with 3 M3 countersunk bolts. The bolts go through the sheet metal and into the flat base of that screw, you need to tap M3 threaded holes in there. Once the screw is firmly fixed to the aluminium sheet, you can attach it to the tablet with quality double sided adhesive tape, the kind that is like 2mm thick and has a foam center. Clean the surfaces well before applying. If you want to remove it, use a 1mm steel wire and sawing motion to cut through the foam.
Just get some 3m Velcro. Also, what kind of freaky setup do you have where you need a surface on a tripod in the field??
look up what connection real cameras use
adding a screw to your electronics doesn't make them real cameras
i have real cameras they use a 1/4-20 screw to attach to anything you are retard

Hey /diy/

I am trying to empty out the contents of this ballast, but two supporting screws are holding it fast. Any tips for removing a stripped screw?
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destroy a woodworking chisel by cutting a flathead slot in the head with it and a hammer
Good idea
Less than a quarter inch of metal between me and success. I got a hammer,
Pro tip, if you can't even take a focused picture of the object or lit up the scene, don't bother to upload a 3MB picture, just stick to 720p.
Are you retarded?

OP posted two huge but worthless images. Try to comprehend what the other guy posted. And stop being retarded.

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I pulled a bunch of 18650 cells from old laptops. The problem is I have nothing that uses 18650 cells. How long can I store these in a discharged state before they go bad? I like prepping and I'd like to store them in case I get some devices that use them in the future. Otherwise it's in the bin
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This, mostly. I have to say that I have revived cells with around 1.8V successfully.
My testing routine goes like this:
First, I get them to charge. If the voltage is too low for the charger to accept them, I briefly put the cell in parallel with a good one to jumpstart the charge. Put a paperclip on each side between the low-volt cell contact and the charger slot contact, and put a good-voltage cell on top. Use the paperclips to connect both cells in parallel briefly.
Second, I charge the cell up and discharge it to determine the capacity. Any halfway descent charger can do that.
Third, if the capacity is good enough for me, I charge the cell up again to 4.15-4.20V and leave it alone for a month. The Voltage should still be >4.10V after that, if lower, it the cell has self-discharge problems.

Generally, when you have cells of unknown quality in your charger, put a cooking pot upside down over it to prevent secondary fires if the cell should rupture because whatever.

Laptop cells, even when new, are not good for tools or vaping. They can only sustain little currents. They are great for flashlights though.
For vaping or tools, the Sony / Murata US18650VTC5A is the ticket.

Storing charged lithium cells for prepping is not as good as storing them around 3.85V, but when the cells are basically free, it's alright for a couple of years. Just store them cool, not on a hot attic or so. And put them in an old ammo can to be sure.
No, not even the cheap cells explode. BTW these are not batteries they are Cells. A battery requires a series of cell. So one 18650 or one 1A or a 1AA are just cells. Anyways, I'm drunk and I have build a lot of flashlights. There is no such thing as a 9600mAH cell. If you have 18650 laptop cells honestly they are worthless. You could try to charge them but you would have to keep an eye on them. When my old laptop took a shit I pulled out the 4 18650 cells desolderd them and charged them and went out and shot them with my .380. And they exploded. Like serious, 2 rounds and they smoked for a minute then just went up in flames. And please don't put them into any kind of flashlight. If you got a 18650 headlamp and you got some shit rigged laptop battery in there and it malfunctions you got a pipe bomb tied to your head. Just charge those cells up with a decent nitcrore charger and shoot them with a .22 or break barrel.
I am holding one up my ass with no issues. Gives mu warm fuzzies.
>If you have 18650 laptop cells honestly they are worthless.
I have to disagree here. I have pulled more than 100 cells from laptops so far, and so far 80-90% have been good or even very good (for small flashlight currents, that is). In only 1 occasion I had a cell with self discharge problems.
If you test a cell as I describer here
there's not much that can go wrong.

What precision tooling does /diy/ use?
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I guess he just misunderstood the three plates method?
I don’t know about that, but the one I have is retarded because it turns on whenever it’s moved the slightest bit, like somebody could be walking on the other side of the room and the thing would turn on from the footsteps.

The other one in the orange box actually turns off.
Float glass is pretty god damn flat.
I have perused the 3 plate method, and while I agree obviously it works, I still have a hard time understanding it. Also I'm a different Anon, your post just caught my eye.

This. it can be flexed a bit which I suppose is what people are bitching about, but in all reality it is very flat. Flatter than you'll be able to make something by hand lapping it.

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can i buy a piece of plywood and use some boards as legs for a cheap computer table/desk? or will it fall apart?
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Did not post measurements in freedom units. Can not compute.
Translation shall be provided.

Another anon here, just looking to rebuild my previous desk for moving (it's crude plywood-only build right now). It's corner desk 59in wide, 25.5in deep shorter side and 39in deep longer side. You think some ikea metal legs screwed into wooden rails would be fine? I guess I could get 5 of them so I could support the middle where most of the load is (well, just a display and sometimes me leaning so not much really). I also want to keep it low (27.1in seems perfect for my typing posture but maybe I'd like half an inch or one more for wiggling my legs) so I'd like to skip front rail. Would pic rel work? I'd also like to keep the rails thin enough so I could mount desk-clamped stuff (lamp, microphone), you think 1in high could be enough? (well, if needed I could make a small hole for the clamp in a rail). Maybe I'd make the rails metal for smaller profile and more rigid build (except the ones I need to screw legs to)?

And also on the topic of woodworking, will glued joints be always stronger than others? I want to make a small PC and UPS rack and I'm considering using no glue just for fun. The PC is pretty light but UPS is somewhat above fifth of an american.
Isn't that called an apron?
Modern woodglue is stronger than the wood itself. Depending on your type of joinery, it will make all the difference.
I have a tendency to overbuild. But have never seen a commercial desk without that crossbeam you have marked as "?"
The crossbeam covers your need for a fifth leg. Tenon joints are easy, and even work with some plywoods. I would construct the top like you have shown, add three braces from leg to leg, and constantly worry because I made it of man-made material.
Thank you anon. I will try making some joints without glue for the rack, I think stress on joints there shouldn't be that much.
>But have never seen a commercial desk without that crossbeam you have marked as "?"
Most of desks I've seen had H shape supports (with the middle beam further in the back) but then most of them were particle board shit.
>and constantly worry because I made it of man-made material
Why exactly? Is there anything that wouldn't make you worry?

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Is there a US seller for these types of stove flue heat radiators?
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Could be worse. We could make our entire roofs out of highly flammable tinder so that any spark from the chimney will set it ablaze.
I have a rocket stove in my house. You do get some creosote build up because the stove isn't always at full temp. When it's first lit, the creosote isn't burned off. It's minimal though, I'll probably never have to clean the chimney
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just build them from stone you tards.

here in Germany chimneys are so heat resistant chimney sweepers can burn them free if the creosote buildup is to much to sweep.
those are used on not even 1% of all buildings and while of course possible i never myself heard of anything happening with them, so it seems to be quite rare (probably because these itself are very rare)

Nice larp europoor...

Making your roofs out of grass clippings from the back yard. You're practically a 3rd world country! KEK!

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*suffers from technological unemployment before the decade is over*
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>Blue collar jobs are being taken over by foreigners instead. Unless you are very specialized you better prepare to work for pennies.

Only because piece of shit boomers that don't care about quality workmanship use foreigners that are hacks most the time, really it's going to be unironically up to the electrical, plumbing, building inspectors to uphold codes and regulations, which will prevent us from becoming a 3rd world shit hole. As long as codes continue to be enforced we'll still be paid decent enough for being blue collar workers.
>I would've loved to become a welder or plumber growing up in northwestern europooria but I realized it would mean signing my life away for minimum wage because polish and bulgarian tradesmen are willing to do quality work for 5-10 euros per hour

Here in America foreigners do mostly low skilled trades, electrical, plumbing, welding is still done by Americans.

>Never heard of eyelids?

The good old AvE safety squints. Ya can't beat em
The true irreplaceable job is literally anything in medicine
Nah man...

An opiate vending machine in the lobby would do away with 75% of their workload...

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Drill a 3/8" hole in the top of the door. No one will notice it. Afterwards, you can just shoot a small amount of foam in it when your done.

You need to find a paintless dent repair tool that has the right angle to get behind the dent and apply pressure from the other side like the other guy suggested.

Just go on eBay and search for paintless dent repair tools. Good luck ya fuckin lush!
stop drinking so these sort of things stop happening.
Pretty sure there are different grades of stainless and some have a higher nickel or iron content so they will be magnetic.
Buy new door no way you're making that unnoticeable.
Yeah, nah mate, cunt's fucked.

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bogus print edition

Thread hymn.


Last thread: >>1759876

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
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Not many Bridgeports around where i live but i could have bought a Deckel, Maho or Hermle. The main reason was that i was completely unfamiliar with hauling and moving that much weight. I knew i can always disassemble a smaller mill (RF45 clone, and you kind of have to anyway to clean everything) and carry all the parts by myself.

Another reason was (as it was my first machine) i can get parts easily and they are cheap. If my spindle bearings ever fail, not a problem. I can get a P4 pair for like 100-200€ NEW. Some use tapered roller bearings which cost 5-15€ a piece. German machines often have non standard bearings and gears. A failure can easily cost more than you paid for the machine. And without access to other machines you can't make replacement parts yourself.

I will definitely buy a horizontal+vertical spindle Deckel/Maho style machine in the near future though. I bet the possibility to kind of use it like a boring mill will come in really handy.

Gauge blocks are on top of my list too. It would be really nice to have a standard i can trust and with a surface plate most of my measurements would gain an order of magnitude of precision. Not sure if i buy used or chinese yet. Cinese class 2 is probably way good enough for a homeshop. I really want a set of adjustable parallels too but for some reason they seem to be nonexistent around here. Maybe i try to get some starrets in a yard sale when i visit some friends in the US.
>a diamond knurl would be pretty choice but I'm not sure how to accomplish that on a non round part outside a lathe
A flat part can be done on a shaper about as easily as a round part can be done on a lathe.
>I was imagining milling cutters
Are you fucking retarded?
Trying too hard to show off, knowing about 5-6 angles and a radius doesn't make you a special snowflake. Also my lathe is plenty rigid enough to run negative tooling. It's true that carbide sucks when I work on thin stock, but I'll survive. Plus it's not like I don't have HSS tools, but I can't be bothered to use them aside from the cutoff tool and the ones for plastic.

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I am just getting started on searching for vacant land, homesteading, and building a timber frame house from scratch to avoid boomer rent and debt.

I found a few free resources, but nothing more modern. Obviously there are 1000 buildalongs on youtube that want you to buy their plans and precut kits and other dumb shit, but the real gold are the tutorials about how to mill and hew a log for timber framing.

I found a local guy that collects old tools, and I taught myself how to use and refurbish old chisels, slicks, axes, adzes, and other tools.

I'm also researching sawmills (alaskan, fixed, etc), and if they are worth it in this process.

Heres some hand-drawn timber frame plans from a few universities:



Does anyone have any tips on searching and purchasing vacant land, building house footings, any other free timber frame home plans, and any other advice?
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OP here. I saw that thread. Good work. I have one or two people I have been speaking with on things, but I'm mostly on my own.

I will make a meeting with a building inspector. That's a damn good point.

I can find 2015 code for free https://codes.iccsafe.org/. Are they like college textbooks in that nothing really changes between revisions?
almost nothing.
codebooks aren’t written as “how-to” manuals, they give you specs and a bunch of funky lingo, so that my asshole boss(and assholes near you) can swindle you out of money for fear of misinterpretation.
Basically, no changes have occurred that would affect timber framing.
if I might say something though,
The Simpson® Strong-Tie© is actually the greatest advance in building technology ever created, and you would be a fool to not use the plate kind in a mortise and tenon situation
In short, save timber frame techniques for the finish carpentry, and do exterior walls using a combination of modern innovations and traditional wisdom, your house will hold up better.
Remember that building codes are not written by organizations.
They are written by governments, and governments don't operate the way you think they do.
There isn't a 2016, 2017, 2018, 2019 code book.
There's just a "201x" book and they list revisions "somewhere else," God help you if you want them all in one place.
The codes do change, but at the end of the day, it's up to you to dig through legislation and piece them all together.
This is how it works for all government regulations, esp. tarriffs.

Use the ICC books as a general guide on how to do something that isn't retarded, but always double check with the REAL laws.
Okay that's good. I'll probably end up hiring a pro to design something up to code so a local municipality doesn't want to swoop in and fuck me without lube.

https://www.strongtie.com/solidsawnlumberconnectors_woodconnectors/category are you talking more about these style of connectors?

https://www.strongtie.com/woodconnectors/category?v=%3Arelevance%3AfeatureApplicationMenuFacet%3AFraming%7C%7C+Wood or these?

I agree about using modern tech and frankly I wasn't planning on doing 100% traditional no-electricity bullshit anyway.
I am a cheap-ass and have a bunch of free time to hew a log. I consider spending a year and a half building a house "by hand" in my free time to be preferable to owing some dumb schmuck in a bank somewhere 500k for the rest of my life.

Timber framing by myself attracts me because of the open building plan, less overall materials, the "style" of the building, I can build it myself with green lumber that I harvest myself, and I get full control over what I want to happen.

Sounds like I *definitely* need to make friends with a local contractor, or hire one to plan something up to code.

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OP here

I just found the Forestry Forum Tool Box


This has tools like load and beam calculators, slab and roof calculators, etc. This is an incredible resource I thought I'd collate here for notes in the future.

Also I spoke with my buddy and learned about a water table and how it will fuck you if you don't take it into calculations.

https://www.usgs.gov/faqs/how-can-i-find-depth-water-table-a-specific-location?qt-news_science_products=0#qt-news_science_products has general information about different areas of the US, and apparently you can drill out a long, deep section of earth and find the water table in an effective area.

Notes on housing placement:
If you're in a climate that gets a lot of cold weather, you want your main windows and any areas that you will be spending time in facing south to get the most sun. If you are in a hot climate, then you want it facing the opposite way to get more shade and cooler temps inside.

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Can anyone help me come up with an idea for displaying a human skull?

I was thinking of buying one of those medical human skull specimens to make one with but i cant come up with a solid idea, the only things i can think of are either some kind of lamp or terrarium in a glass cloche but i cant think of how to make them look good, any ideas?
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I have one of those!
Go to eastern europe next vacation and rent a metal detector. Then look in wikipedia where the most important battles in ww2 happened. When you find one, send it to yourself via mail once your vacation is almost over. Receive the package and don't forget to give him a name.
Just put it on a bookshelf at the end of a bunch of cool antique books
That only works if you have a friend who is good at shoveling.
nice, got pics of it?

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