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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

Helpful links:
Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
- Try to use pictures and explain the goal, if possible
- Be patient, this is a slow board; your thread will be around for days.
- Share your results! /diy/ loves to see problems solved and projects completed!

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Have any of you ever started a pirate FM station before in the United States? I really want to DJ some electronic music on a vacant FM channel next year. I've read it's a good idea to buy an expensive but well-made FM transmitter to avoid interference, and keep the FCC off my back longer.

I've got access to multiple rooftops around campus, so I could erect antennas remotely. It would really suck to have my equipment stolen/damaged/confiscated though.

It seems like so much fun, just screwing around on the airwaves and playing good electronic music. The FM radio in my state is such shit, it's all either cumulus or iheartmedia regurgitating the same top 40 garbage.
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>boomers with nothing to do but ruin other people's fun
When can we start producing Onions Green?
> overpowered
Do you mean overwatted?
Because you said wattage instead of power earlier, was that a mistake or what?
>as long as you keep it under a certain wattage and antenna size.
Yeah, a grand total of .1 Watts! Part 15 rule. You can get decent range with a good antenna, actually, but nothing mindblowing.

>wattage instead of power earlier

You for real bruh?

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sup diy,

i recently got a cheap ass stove and the thing gets so fkin hot it melts the wire that is connected to it...

is there a diy way to protect wire from heat? i covered it with aluminum from a can but i guess that still conducts electricity so its as good as leaving the raw wire naked...

any ideas, besides buying the protecting sleeves?
Just separate the wires so even if the insulation melts off they never touch.

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unpatched edition: >>1507025

0. Electrics ≠ electronics. Mains wiring goes to /qtddtot/ or /sqt/. PC assembly to >>>/g/.
1. Do your own homework. Re-read all documentation/datasheets related to your components/circuits, and do an honest web search, before asking.
2. Pics > 1000 words. Post schematic/picture/sketch/9001.5 hours in MS Paint with all part numbers/values/etc. when asking for help. Focus/lighting counts.
3. Read posts fully. Solve more problems than you create.

>I'm new to electronics, where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements. Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat.

>Project ideas:

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two Schottky diodes in a single package (possibly BAT54S). here, they clamp the VGRID_SEN and GRID_V_ZERO nodes to between 0V and 3.3V
Thank you, that reply cleared many questions I had!
Thank, anon
so the purpose is not to damage ADC of mcu right?
that sounds reasonable, it's a common motif

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Was driving through the state of missouri today and stopped to fill up. All the gas pumps have this fucking plastic sheath thing over the nozzle that needs to be depressed by pushing hard against the filler pipe. Is this just a missouri thing? Do other states have this?
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It is mostly that people watch the meter trying to put in exactly what they have in cash or get a nice round number, they see it at the number they want and yank it out not realizing they still had they trigger squeezed in their fingers, gas goes everywhere and I had to go out with the kitty litter to absorb all the spilled gas. The cost of the gas is not much for any single spill, but add in the cost of the kitty litter and the time and it starts adding up. If it is a good sized spill beyond what a bag of kitty litter could handle, have to call 911, if 911 gets too many calls within a set amount of time for spilled gas they start sending bills to the owner, it really does add up.

Most people immediately let go of the handle when they see gas spraying out, but every now and then you got someone who just panicked and would not realize the reason the gas is coming out is because they were still squeezing the trigger, have to shut down the pumps and the station, call 911 and wait while all the business goes to the station across the street.

Stupid panicky people make the 'safteycucks' somewhat of a necessity. In the year I worked there after the safety boot things showed up, I can not recall a single person complaining about them, suspect you are just looking for people to blame for your life when there is no one to blame but yourself.
We don't have them in the UK, well not that I've seen. I have seen them in loads of American films though, so they can't be that rare over there.
never seen one in the UK, then again i have never seen anyone spill fuel on a forecourt before other than one time in northern ireland but that was intentional...
i guess people in america are just much more retarded?
I never saw a person spill gas either, then I worked at a gas station. When you are just there to fill up you are there for maybe 15minutes tops and see at best a dozen people, so a fraction of a percent of the number someone would see if they worked there for 8 hours a night 5 days a week.

Never met a single person from the UK that would say anything other than 'petrol', certainly not 'fuel' as you did, and I have spent a fair amount of time in the UK.
Haven't seen these in Finland, but we do not have the "toggle" pumps either(on petrol pumps for consumers. Unsure about tanking stations for lorries). You need to pull the trigger and hold it down until you're done. Very hard to spill unless intentional.

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>Always dreamed of building my own home
>Nothing fancy or elaborate, just something simple that I made with my two hands, to live cheaply and distance myself from the massive financial stress renting/mortgages bring
>No real construction experience outside of basic maintaince skills such as painting, patching drywall, etc.
>Fine dining chef by trade, have been working in it since childhood
>Can litterally make anything food related, from pasta by hand, to cheese, to butcher anything, charcuterie products, etc
>Couldn't even think of where to begin building a home as simple as an A-frame
>Spent my life building a skill-set that has nothing to do with my drean

Is there any hope for me /DIY/?
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>no phone bill
>no electric bill
>no water bill
>$400-500 rent for a place close enough to jobs that you don't need your own vehicle
>$30k houses

also, in the areas with cheapest houses (fly over land) minimum wage is below $8 so you can cut your $1360 monthly net income to $1020
Yea that's minimum wage too. Anyone who can do more than minimum will be more than able to afford anything with some small planning.

With room mates, rent includes those.

$30/m for standard, if you're frugal, you can go for $20/m similar package or even half that if you're looking for the deals.
150k is mobile home and slip in an old person community. In Oxnard. (Where you will get shanked for being white)

Barren _plots_ in my county are worth more than that.

The house I live in is a 60-year-old Suburb Special, thoroughly ordinary by US metrics.

It's worth like seven hundred thousand fucking dollars, in a shitty (though not full-on ghetto) part of the city. The ONLY homes in that price range here are out in the middle of nowhere, mobile homes, projects, or a combination of the above. The current median price for a house in Orange County is $720,000. Beyond the fact that I don't like living in a population center in the first place, based on price alone there is no way in hell I'll be anywhere even near here if/when I move.

This is ignoring the radically increased cost of living, perhaps most notably, insurance. As an example, my mother recently moved to Idaho. She was paying like $60/month for bare minimum liability coverage on a 16-year-old car. I think she said she pays like $15/month where she is now. At a cursory glance, staple groceries were like 40% cheaper there, too. Admittedly, not totally sure what the job market's like, but, based on what my sister and cousin there make (neither have any special skills beyond being competent beyond a basic level), it's nowhere near what that sort discrepancy would suggest.

Realistically, right now? The only good solution for living in a coastal city without a good job is to leave the fucking coastal city.
>orange county

Then again, california has outrageous housing prices way above median house price of US.

>mobile home
Why the fuck would you ever consider such a thing? You're basically renting with no control over what happens if the landlord decides to fuck you in the ass.

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Who needs infill edition:

Need help with prints? Post:
>filament type, bed & extruder temp, print & fan speed, etc

>general info
Additive Manufacturing Technologies:3D Printing, Rapid Prototyping, and Direct Digital Manufacturing, Gibson Rosen Stucker

>open source community
#RepRap @freenode

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Legitimately asking if I need to keep attacking it and fine tuning or be happy. Tevo hairyspider. Single Z on a piece of mirror with something like 2 thick layers of hair spray. Heated bed at 100°c Black ABS. 240° nozzle 60mm/s
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Offcenter timelapse of one half of candy cane xmas tree.
I've been looking all over and comparing different filaments and their strengths and temps and I'm going to assume that at a max temp of 240/100 that PLA+ heat treated after is going to be my best choice.
Does Blender or Maya transition well to Cura or Simplify3D?
It looks horrible, lines quashed left and right. I am even having a hard time to comprehend what is going on in some places. I am kinda suprised it finished and didnt lost steps or something in a short time.

Is it possible that your first layer hight is more than 3/4 of your nozzle size or line width?

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Hi there, id like to craft my own berimbau ( capoeira instrument) with european material.
I mean the string and all that stuff i can get from here but, the problem i have is the wood for the "verga" the body of the berimbau.
The question is , do you know any tree that is flexible and stron like the biriba(tradicional berimbau wood ).
yew is pretty much perfect.

Pretty much any wood traditionally used for bows (archery) will work perfectly well.

how do we revive roman concrete?
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Just throw it on the pile, we are fast approaching peak fucking everything. To maintain average human living standards we need to start reducing population massively.
>Fast strength gain and for buildings meant to last 3-5 decades.

nothing wrong with that, cheap plastic had its place and purpouse. But why build bridges out of RC then? RC is good for prisons and bunkers, but not for bridges you expect to outlast you...
>not getting the choke
>It survived an ammo depot explosion
I disagree. It survived for centuries, and got rekt by an ammo depot explosion

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I found this in an a warehouse foreclosure pick through. the box it came in was non descript with some chinese lettering. It folds up to about 1ftx2ftx2.5. it bursts open to 16x7 ft when deployed. Google hasn't given me anything
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Chinese scaffolding
Wrong retard.
>Wrong retard.
>this is not the retard you are looking for
portable wood pecker
a Russian over-the-horizon-radar system
how the fuck do you know?
maybe some inventor one day thought, hey, you know those pop up signs you get, maybe i could invent one into a car cover or a field shelter, so he bought one and built some posts for it and because he wasn't very good obviously the buisness folded and he left his only prototype that op just found in a warehouse that was being foreclosed.
you don't know. don't be so mean guy was only trying to help ffs.

>Needs to hang planes to open up an area for workspace
>Try to do what I did last year in my dorm as well, apply 3M hooks and hang them up
>wipe off the wall from dust and big gay
>Apply 3M hooks with fresh adhesive to the wall
>Hang up planes
>20 minutes or so later
>Temporarily hang them up on the supports for the sprinkler line but I could get fined for it
>pic related

What do I do to keep the hooks from peeling off? They hung up just fine last year.
They were the big hooks as well. Not allowed to nail anything into the wall beside my head since finals are here.
Just fucking nail them and fill the holes after you pussy faggot
Keep that up son and I'll fill your fag-o-licious holes.
disregard the constabulary
get some drywall hooks

Lets say I want to make a range hood for my portable propane stove.
It's all going to be inside a plywood enclosure thing.
I have a 3 inch diameter fan inside one of those ductwork tube things that is going to suck the air out the window.
The problem is I don't want the moisture from what I'm cooking going on the wood and creating mold.

Should I paint the wood with something or use some coating of some kind?
I'm looking for something non toxic and relatively heat resistant.

Flex seal?
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> Slim Potatohead?
Can you line it with foil? Or bend sheet metal over something a little more flame retardant? Grease fires are crazy
How would the foil stick to the wood exactly?
You want some High temperature enamel paint. Like for barbecues. Put a few coats on the entire wood area surrounding the stove. Usually comes in spray cans but I think you can buy it in gallon cans for roll on.
I don't think it's going to get that hot actually.

The main problem is moisture and grease

Wouldn't normal latex paint work?

all things considered knifemaking, questions about techniques and tools, show your riggs, props, machines and knifes, ask for and give advice about anthing concerning forging, heattreatment, finish and stockremovel.
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>What do you use for shaping the handle and pins?
For rough shaping I used a grinder with a 60 grit flap wheel. From there I smooth it up with an aggressive file, before switching to progressively finer sandpaper.
I'm pretty pleased with how it came out although I wish I'd carved a palm swell into the scales before I epoxied them.
I've been using the wood carving knives I made of all subsequent handles and lots and lots of sandpaper. I use a Dremel with various bits to do various jobs hen I think my filing efforts might botch it up too much or to correct a botched job.
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I've made serrated bread knives in the past, but never really made the leap to an actual saw blade as there really wasn't anything I could feasibly do with one that was worth the time/money.
What I have thought about recently was making a hunters trousse with a small bone/horn saw on it for work in the field making whole animals into smaller bits of animal, so I'll keep that it mind. My original thought was just to do some serrations with a triangular diamond file and a fairly tight pitch of about 12-15 points per inch (think thats how they're measured) so its kind of like a hacksaw blade... a very classy hacksaw!

Finished up one of the N690 blades with a wire-wrap handle (304SS and Brass)
Not inordinately happy with the ability to polish N690, it does get 'fairly shiny' but not the true mirror finish I was thinking of.it getting, but that may just be down to what I've got to work with rather than the steel itself. For a little workhorse knife anyway it doesn't matter if its a mirror, some gronk will just bin it in a washtub and scratch it to shit!
What I was happy with though was the stain resistance, basically no rust even when abused to shit, swimming in all kinds of nasty crap in my workshop, left for a couple of days wet and abused and it simply just doesn't give a fuck.
It also gets scalpel sharp, like outrageously keen to the point you'll fillet yourself doing the arm hair test- doesn't hold it for ages like some other steels but it sharpens/re-hones very easily as well.

So, I'd call it a 'compromised success'
Some good points, an excellent point and a couple of not-great but ok points in there

Aren't you concerned about dirt getting between the wires ? It will be hard to clean. Also what is under the wire? Also isnt the knife too heavy with this wraping ?

On the other hand It realy looks cool and I think it will provide nice traction with the hand.
Its a tiny bit heavier than a G10 handled, hidden tang knife: which is essentially what it is underneath the wire. Just some 5mm G10 shaped to suit and the wire run over the top of it, I also run a thin coat of epoxy, with black ink in it over the whole wrap and then clean off the excess with some light sanding, bit of wire-wheel on the grinder and then a polish. That sort of helps stop anything from sneaking down between the strands and makes sure nothings going to wander around.

Do have some fine titanium wire squirreled away I might use next time to knock a bit of the weight off, but its pretty bomb-proof for the most part and will have a fairly long service time. One of the few hand made knives that would survive a dishwasher trip... not that it should, but it could

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I'm interested in making a survey drone, which would need image analysis and plenty of data storage.
What can I assemble that's compact and barebones, but a big step up from tiny uncooled assemblies like Raspberry Pi or Arduino?
Source on image?
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It's a webcomic mostly about goblins
Oh fuck, my friend used to recommend this to me back in the day. I opted for Darken instead. Looks like I missed out
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Did somebody say goblins?

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What's the strongest non-adhesive joint?
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Second to that would be an offset mortise a tenon with the tenon wedged, much easier to execute an almost as strong.

Both joints would require well seasoned and dried wood to last through the ages.
Draw boring the tenon instead of wedging may be better, or even making your own cut nails from one of the very hard woods like lignum vitate, hornbeam or osage orange and driving them through in place of the draw bored dowels.

Fun puzzle!
the more interesting thing about stonehenge are the vast amounts of sites surrounding it
also how they found many giant skeletons in the surrounding areas
gorilla glue and green crack adhere me to the couch moreso than gdp desu

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