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Welcome to /diy/, a place to:

Post and discuss /diy/ projects, ask questions regarding /diy/ topics and exchange ideas and techniques.

Please keep in mind:
- This is a SFW board. No fleshlights or other sex toys.
- No weapons. That goes to /k/ - Weapons. The workmanship and techniques involved in creating objects which could be used as weapons or the portion of a weapons project that involves them (e.g., forging steel for a blade, machining for gunsmithing, what epoxy can I use to fix my bow) may be discussed in /diy/, but discussing weapon-specific techniques/designs or the actual use of weapons is disallowed. Things such as fixed blade knives or axes are considered tools, things such as swords, guns or explosives are considered weapons.
- No drugs or drug paraphernalia (See Global Rule 1). If you want to discuss something that could involve such things (e.g., carving a tobacco pipe from wood) that's fine, but make sure it's /diy/ related and doesn't involve drugs or it will result in deletion/ban.

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Some friendly suggestions for posting:
- First ask Google, then ask /diy/. Your question will probably be better received if you do so.
- List available resources (tools, materials, budget, time, etc.)
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I don't have the damn OP text so sod off.
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Work hardening, you didn't feed hard enough
No, I thought about that, but I fed as hard as the cheapo drill press would let me. That it happened with the 8mm drill is one thing, but it also happened with the 4mm bit (on two other locations as well). And I've drilled 10-15mm steel bars before, it never happened on those. Also it was screeching the entire time with all bits except carbide, even after adding oil, despite only running like 200RPM.
>at 200rpm

damn anon, speed 'er up
maybe the material was pre-hard?

tool steel will harden if you look at it funny too btw anon

the fact that it was squealing tells me it was pre-hard or work hardened, whatever you think about it

a squealing noise that isn't just chatter means the material is harder than your tool. If you want to prove it, go turn some pre-hard steel with a regular old carbide insert. SKKKWEEEEEE

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>buy aluminum frame bike
>one pedal is bent and sharp, but usable
>try to replace it a week later
>he put on red loctite and a lock washer

Is there any point in even trying?
Willing to heat it with a torch, but that would probably harm the bike.
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Thanks. Is the busted part you're referring to the silver metal outside part of the pedal?

If so, you can often remove that part, fix it, and put it back on without removing the pedal from the bike. Two ways this can be done.

Green arrows - If there are screws here you can undo them and take the metal off. Then bash it back into the proper shape, then re-mount it. You may have to pop the reflector off to get access to the screws. If it's a super cheap pedal, it may not have screws.

Second option is to pop off the plastic cap (red arrow). Underneath will be a nut, and by removing it you can then slide the body of the pedal off it's spindle. Be careful, as loose bearings may then fall out which you'll have to grease and re-insert when putting it all back together.
Uh I fucked up my color references. Red = green and green = red.
little bit of heat till you can smell a sweet smell and it'll be off like a dirty foreskin
I am referring to the crank, where it attaches to the frame, you can see that bolt head in the picture in >>1577931, bottom center. just to the right of the bolt there is some damage and the threads the crank puller would attach to are ruined. That crank my never come off without a hack saw, depends on what is inside.

As to the pedal, could not see the bend on my phone, removing the cage and beating it back into shape would be best (easiest) assuming it is not riveted to the body, but cheap aluminum alloy some times just snaps when you try and bend it back. Popping the plastic cap off and pulling the entire pedal body off of its axle can also work but it will not be a fun job to repack those bearing and adjust the cones with the axle on the bike. Cheap pedals often need unobtainable tools for holding the cone while you tighten the jam nut, it can be done with out the tool but it is tedious, adjust the cone so the pedal wobbles and tighten the jam nut hopping it locks against the cone before it takes the cone in too tight, if it ends up too tight and the pedal does not spin freely, take the jam nut off loosen the cone abit further this time and repeat. You can also just adjust the cone and locktite it, let it dry and crank down the jam nut, but there is still some luck involved and just makes for more work if you need to undo it. I miss the old easy to service pedals.

If I were to tackle the pedal with either of those paths I would work under the assumption it will fail and have a plan for getting that crank off so if worse comes to worst I am already ready to just dive into the crank with a plan and parts lined up and the bike will not end up being unrideable for an excessive amount of time. Odds are decent on the pedal repair though, just need to stick to it until you get it.
Thank you, all.

I have taken the screws marked red before when trying to get the pedal off. I didn't know that the green arrow's plastic could be popped off. I may replace them this way if heat will not work.

The metal is furred surrounding the bolt, but can be filed. I will look into getting new cranks for this task.

Ever seen pictures or videos where (empty/low air pressure) barrels get crushed because of the surrounding air pressure? If not, just do a quick look.

This means there is obviously energy and a lot of it. How to harvest this into a useful application?

well, just look at the working principle of the sterling engine. hot air/ cold air displacement. now replace the heat source with surrounding air pressure, a low/high pressure chamber and one or two valves.

like a flame feeds heat to the sterling engine the surrounding air pressure would apply energy to low pressure container. "the crushing" would be a motion energy that could be used and by opening/closing valves to another pressure container at a 90° degree motion angle.

imagine two ballons where one is blown up and the other one deflated and then they change.

the energy could be harvested by a magnet moving in and out of a coil (instead of a mechanical motion transfer that could risk the pressure envrioment).

>yfw you realise this could work
>yfw you will be tracked and killed for knowing this cheap/unlimited/clean energy engine
>yfw this thread really changed your life
45 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
sure, some places even use compressed air for large scale energy storage. They're getting BTFO by flow batteries though.
>work required to create pressure lower than ambient
and we are done here
>OP thinks he can beat the laws of thermodynamics

You do realize that in those videos first a guy fills that barrel with high energy steam then seals the barrel then pours cold water to increase the pressure difference it’s not like he is pulling energy out of his ass
It's just an example to show there is power behind it. The method in the Video was rather simple to create a lower the pressure in the barrel.

Also, I do not deny that it requires energy to create high/low pressure containers required by this engine.

However that it just a medium to create the required difference, and if correctly built you won't have to do it again unless there is a leak.

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What are some items to procure to prepare for the end of the work as we know it; but that also have other more typical, every-day uses and thus don't necessarily make you look like a paranoid prepper?
>preparing for the end of everything
I would say any religious artifacts you can get your hands on and daily prayer.
Unless you believe you can take your stuff with you to the afterlife, for which I would advise you study ancient Egypt as they prepped as fuck for the end of their lives on earth.
>believing in an afterlife
Also, do you live in the woods? TWAWKI isn't the physical world that we stand on. It's everything our current way of life depends on, like grocery stores and gas stations.

TEOTWAWKI refers to the systems collapse, the end of current civilization.
My apologies. When you stated "end of the work" I thought you meant end of the world.
I'd like to retract my statement here >>1578174
Thank you and have a nice day
Your not going to become prepared by just acquiring a bunch of shit. Is not that simple. But of course there is an industry built around the idea that it is, and they have a whole bunch of stuff to market to you. Beware.

Instead, you need a whole-of-system shift in the way you live. It's very easy to tell when your prepared, it will be when the inputs you use to live a minimum standard of your life originate from resilient sources.

What does this mean? It really depends on your assessment of what TEOTWAWKI actually entails. If you think fuel (for example) will become unavailable, no amount of stockpiling it will let you survive anything other than temporarily and instead you need to be developing a way to acquire the necessities of life without requiring fuel. Water and food sourcing locally, for example.

A lot of folks decide to move rurally as part of this preparedness, in part because the rural way of life happens to incorporate a lot of the essentials of preparedness.

Prepping in Urban areas only makes sense for short lived disaster scenarios (earthquake, tornado, financial market crash, pipeline disruption depending on your location) as a temporary means of survival. There is no Urban TEOTWAWKI preparedness that doesn't involve bugging out.

You will be acquiring stuff in the course of preparing, but what those acquisitions need to be will become apparent as you make the shift.

There are obviously complications and sacrifices that are difficult and unavoidable, such as reducing your earning potential as a result of moving away from Urban life. The main thing you need to acquire will be skills you don't currently possess (growing food, navigation, preserving, natural medication sourcing, construction).

Then there's the whole set of choices to be made about how much you balance off grid readiness with on grid practical day to day living, until TEOTWAWKI arrives. Living OG continuously is the extreme, making at least some use of the grid makes sense
TEOTWAWKI sounds like it could be the Aztec version of the Apocalypse.

Welcome to /SQTDDTOT/, where there are no stupid questions, only stupid anons. At least try to google it. Old thread >>1563055

I have googled the numbers and even asked an electrician. What is this capacitor? (Blue) Its blown out and I need a replacement. Also FYI it’s on a power supply unit for an old microscope bulb.
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There’s a handful of people on here who have said that the thing is actually pretty solid, and if you order a good chuck for it the thing punches far above its proce range.

I know
I do a little sculpting and i want to start making molds with proper degassing and compressing processes, instead of spending all my money on compressors and vac pumps that i might only use once a month should I just invest in 2 bike pumps and flip the seal on one to make it draw air? Do bike pumps even move air fast enough to be effective?
>Clean the couplings off so they're dry. If it starts leaking you should be able to see oil on the fittings before it's low enough to frost up.
Thanks, I didn't know, that oil will leak before frosting.
So as I see it, electrons only carry the energy for the circuit, and when they give that energy to the circuit they must go back to the battery/power source? For what reason
It's more like a river and a water mill.
The energy isn't the water, it's how much and how strong the water flows. And after the water has flown through the mill it has to get upstream again.

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Arduino / AVR / PIC / STM32 / Embedded thread goes here.
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I had a speaker on the programming pins on one of my board, and it wasn't pleasant each time I programmed it.
But this must be Really unpleasant.
Problem is that the nRF24 chugs quite a bit of power in listening mode.
You can read the datasheet and find out that the module can be turned off with virtually no power consumption. So you turn it off, setup the wake up timer, turn off the chip itself, and once waken up turn on the NRF again for like one second. You can sync the devices with RTC, so you can wake up every 20th second or so, but you'd have an external 32k crystal for that. If you time it right you can tune it to be 1/100th of the current consumption.
>level shifters
Just like the other anon I've never heard of this but it sounds quite handy.
Where can I learn about components?
Thanks for the seizure, nigger.

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What mask do you wear when working and why? Are full respirators like pic easier to exhale from than the regular white 3M masks? I do a lot of work with metal and grind belt dust and metal dust is in the air all the time. How fucked am I without wearing one? How long do the filters last for? I just want something comfortable to wear that isn't a challenge to equip and use all the time.
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I ordered this and it claims it's a 6800, but I'm fairly sure it's coming from china. The few reviews I can find regarding it say that the mask works fine but the filters that come with it are awful. It uses bayonet type connectors though so I should be able to use it with real 3M respirators. Anyone have experience with this model?

who the fuck uses a gas mask when they clean somethimg with gas or acetone

do you people just not have a clue what youre doing so you over protect yourselves or what

>going to fuel up my rice cooker
>better mask up

ive been using acetone gasoline brake kleen varsol methyl hydrate you name it my whole life no gloves no bullshit mask seriously grow a pair morons its not going to hurt you holy fucking christ
>not having oxygen setup for better efficiency
Not gonna make it
It came but doesn't fit my beard at all!
Oh well it's comfortable as fuck. I'm gonna try to add a MSA 6A PAPR to it. Even if it doesn't seal 100% that's OK, it's just woodworking dust.
Acetone isn't too bad, but that other stuff is bad.

I want to build a multi story trailer park using cargo containers. how should i start?
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>Here's my response telling OP how dumb he really is, not realizing that I am the dummy here who fell for the bait.
I love shipping container threads
Unless you live in shitland, you can't get away with being that minimal.

Multi-family housing has a ton of legal safety and accessibility requirements.
>merely pretending
Kill yourself.
You should dig holes on a hillside to put the containers in, then you cover them back with dirt for insulation and protection from weather

What can I make with bamboo? I have access to 1/4 acre of bamboo grove. It's mostly 3" or so in diameter and easily 20-30' tall. Some of it is 1.5" in diameter and in between. It's very solid.

I think it's ‘Yellow Groove’ bamboo.

What kind of crafts can I build from this in order to profit from pinterest housewives and hipsters?
9 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Attach a bamboo cylinder on a barn wood base and sell it as a vase
The funny thing is, this could work...
if one of the people advocating it gets digits, i'll do it.
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Make some into pens.

Discuss anything welding related, post welds and welding gear, critique each others weld and help each other become better welders.

Here my first weld in 6 months on a 4” sched 40 pipe, looks like shit but Infigure it could be worse, I’m hoping to get back in thenryhmn of things so my welds don’t look like shit, what do you niggers think?
115 replies and 20 images omitted. Click here to view.
>TIG is a cunt unless your sitting at a bench, not good for awkward positions at all
TIG is the best for awkward positions. ever welded something trough a mirror because you didn't had enough space?
>Should i get TIG or MIG if I want to fix few rust holes in car?
MIG is easier for beginners

cloudy with a chance of samefag


holy fuck can you hear how electrons smell when you strike an arc with that thing
So I want to weld a plate to an anvil shaped object, but if I only weld around it will matter nothing
So I was thinking of leaving a gap between the face and the plate with a spacer in the middle and proceed to fill the gap with welding rods. I can weld with rods and my machine can handle up to 4mm rod but is it doable? What is the smallest gap I can leave for it to be feasible?

As long as nothing's shorted to ground, it should be fine.

Just sold one of those exact ones a week ago, but I got $120 for it. $35 is a steal, the copper in the transformer and leads is worth more than that.

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What is the best way to keep my house heated during a power outage without a big loud generator? I have a gas furnace, but obviously the fan/blower and thermostat don't work without power. I have a fireplace in my living room, but heating with a traditional fireplace is pretty inefficient as most of the heat goes up the chimney. I'm considering the following:

>Gas fireplace insert in the living room
This should put out more heat than a regular fire, but the blower won't work if the power is out unless I can find a way to rig it to a battery. This is probably the most expensive option, but it would be nice to have even when the power isn't out.

>Wood stove insert in the living room
This would put out a good amount of heat but isn't great for air quality. It is also a bit of a safety hazard since I have small children.

>Small/quiet generator to power just the furnace circuit
I'm thinking a small inverter generator could power the furnace but I'm not sure how quiet it would be. My neighbors are all pretty close by, so I don't want to annoy them too much.

Any tips or other suggestions? I mostly just want to be able to keep at least one room at a decent temperature in case the power goes out for more than a day during the winter. I moved to a house in an area that gets windstorms last year and have lost power for 12+ hours twice. I'm not that concerned about powering anything else.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
This looks awesome, but $3,000 for the 3,000Wh version. It could probably keep the house warm for a few days though depending on the outside temperature.
you can buy 3 actual car batteries for 300-400$ total which would have around 3000Wh too.
Add a good high end inverter for 500$ and it's still less than a third of the price of that thing.

Who the fuck needs their battery to have wifi?
I use a kerosene heater
Lost power for a couple weeks due to an Ice storm and they work great.
Light it outside and let it warm up before bringing it in and take it outside to shut it off to avoid headache causing fumes.
Make sure it burns blue and not yellow.

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Hey folks,
at the moment I try to fix an old calculator just for the sake of fixing it.
At first it looked it were only the battery connectors which were fucked up and corroded. Now it somehow "works", but does a few weird things (which i cannot pinpoint down yet). I think a bit of that are still shitty connections, but the marked traces on pic related confuse me.
What they are for?
None of them are connected with a screw. Is this some capacitance? That could describe a few weird things that happened on the bottom row, because it seems like the marked trace at the bottom right was connected to the plus side of the first battery. So it would only get 1.5V and maybe some other capacitance then? Does this make sense?

Any help would be nice. THanks.
Those were probably for a manufacturing test fixture. It looks weird but you can ignore it.
Dubs of truth. Test points.
It doesn't have any solder resist so you could test anywhere and they're all on traces that lead to nice big surfaces, so why the extra test points?

It also looks like it's carbon - so maybe printed carbon resistors?
Have you checked the resistance of those points?

Is the membrane supposed to go inside the gutter like this?

This gutter often gets clogged with moss. Is this why?
you shouldnt have moss on your roof, it doesnt get enough sun
just clean it out. And clean off the moss on your roof.
In the spirit of DIY, take some of the moss and grow it in shady areas of your yard.

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Currently, I want to replicate an electronic device that generates electricity thanks to the use of an electric motor with gravity. But I do not have much information on how to replicate an efficient device.
I would like to know what kind of electronic motors, and other devices I need like: Capacitors, or diode bridge, and LED diodes.
I understand that an electronic motor like the one in the image would generate electricity, but for about 2 minutes. How would this time increase? Either by means of pinions, or pulleys.
I'm sorry if I was not clear, I'm using a translator.
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How do you know he's not going to use the gravity of a flowing creek? Huh, huh, Mr Smarty-pants?!

what does a hole have to do with OP?
I know, nothing!
Isn't that image of a shaded pole motor? Induction motors don't work as generators without a bit of extra fucking around, I'd recommend a >12V brushless DC motor and a rectifier setup.

To be fair the gravity light is actually decent looking, not that it isn't virtue signalling of the highest calibre.

Technically gears aren't entirely necessary, it can be "geared" by changing the turns ratio and current/voltage ratio of the load, but I think the effect of that would mean the current density would have to be massive, meaning very large and bulky turns, which is only efficient with superconductors. But at the very least you could use a bulkier motor to cut down on the amount of gearing required.

Pulleys might have less losses than gears for some torque/speed ratios, so I'd look into optimising each step of the gearing process.
Could not a pwm driver feeding a big load like a cap act as electromechanical resistance to the generator? Then the light can run without the genset. Would be less gay. I was thinking using the mechanism of a counterweighted door.

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