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I don't want sun or mosqitoes
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why do rednecks insist on doing all sorts of behavior on anything but ground level?

Like it has to occur on the roof, basement, or a shed.
Could chlorine evaporation be a problem? Do these small ass pussy pools even use Cl? Yes I know stabilizer is a thing but it's only so good.
Not exactly a solution, but youre losing heat into the floor. it looks like a cement floor and its probably colder than the air in the room.

there are heating systems for sidewalks. i dont know that much about them, but if you slip one under the pool, maybe that would work?
At the least, lay down a few sheets of 1" insulation. That'll eliminate most of the heat loss through the concrete.
>I don't want sun or mosqitoes

You're on the right track. Just keep your pool away from standing water.

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Is it even possible to mess these up?

Its mostly a hinge so naw

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My toilet is leaking shitwater from the wastewater pipe.
It is a plastic pipe. The bit under the green line is like a sleeve that moves back and forth and presses against a gasket inserted in the elbow pipe. The gaskets on either side of the sleeve are probably fucked. But I do not think I can take the sleeve out to get the gasket out without removing the whole bowl.
How do I fix this thing? The blue lines indicate the leaks.
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I used white grout under mine. I shimmed it level and jammed grout under it. The after the grout dried I pulled the Shims and grouted those spots too.
Where the fuck are the bolts that bolt it to the floor and keep it from moving at all???
Judging by the tile that's a Wendy's bathroom. Why are you crawling under their toilets?
This. Stuck your caulk in it.

>running your pipes perpendicular to the flow of shit
what country are you in? why is your toilet not plumbed in like normal?

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How do you even get a job as a trader/apprentice with zero experience and no education? I hear this all the time, "just go out and look for apprenticeships, people will hire with no experience if you're willing to work". Okay well I did, I took a look a opportunities as a welder, so all welder positions start at $14/hr and go up to $22/hr, not bad but these are all shops that want people with experience no noobs allowed. I tried looking for an apprenticeship, found exactly only one in my city, except they require (and they made sure to indicate "must have") a welding certificate. I'm not completely retarded but I think I'm capable of handling a trade, in manufacturing. I know some machining concepts, I can use machinist tools but I don't actually know CNC or programming. Still, I have experience operating machines, a surface grinder and a sheeter (cutting 3 ton paper rolls into large sheets for industrial printing). Yet when I apply for jobs it seems employers don't think I am somehow fit for these jobs, what gives? Why is it so hard to get into trades?
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Even better, the pic is from 2015, she graduated already
>tfw so much of a virgin incel I missed high school and college sex
I've accepted dying alone but it is still hard sometimes.

Have you considered seeing if there is a government training program?
Just search for "contractor" and shoot out a number of emails en masse. As of right now there's a labor shortage in construction. Like here in California, they're considered and already have literally hired guys off the street -- those who were standing outside the jobsite. And those guys were paid union rates.

My friend, the whole thing is about attitude, and basically bullshit.
You want them to be confident in you to finish the apprenticeship and make them money, think of it as a first date.
The pleb takes the opportunity to look at her tits. The patrician would take the opportunity to look at her pits.

Prebious bread >>1711425


In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?



> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)


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Lol i'm running an X-Lite too

What kind of range are you getting out of it? Are you using an r9 or crossfire?
R9M Lite Pro, I'll never get anywhere even remotely close to it's maximum range (it's 1W of 868MHz).
Anyone else waiting for the inevitable false flag drone on protest day?
Colorado mystery night drones wasn't successful
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Someone was following me through the woods and around the lake with a quadcopter last week. The surveillance is inescapable now. Nowhere is sacred.

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is wd40 electrically conductive?

can I use it to loosen and disconnect old shitty plastic automotive electrical connectors.

safety sheet says dieletric strength of 38 000 volts
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You want LPS1. LPS3 for reassembly.
that shit pisses me off so much, at work people use LPS3 like WD-40.
>also does it eat plastic?
Every aerosol lubricant is capable of destroying or otherwise compromising certain types of plastic, especially polycarbonate.
But if you're just talking about automotive connectors which are always Nylon, ABS, or Delrin then you should be using di-electric grease spray, or a plain silicone grease spray.
>loosen and disconnect old shitty plastic automotive

In my experience you just go ahead and break them, and either replace with originals or use some other compromise. Maybe some old cars have great connectors, but old fords like 60s through 90s have connectors that seize up, become brittle, and don't protect the contacts from the harsh under-hood environment. Once you have something that can go back together I suggest coating with enough dielectric grease to keep moisture out. I've read that dielectric grease is bad for lightweight connectors like those on your computer motherboard because they can form a film between the contacts, but I've not had any issues with automotive connectors.
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LPS is good shit but it has its applications like everything else. WD40 is useful under the right circumstances but is not a great lubricant which sucks for OP since it needs to have a high dielectric strength but loosen frozen parts. Now I'm starting to wonder what the specs are for something like pb blaster or kroil like the autist tard I am.

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Hi /diy/

My old aunt was about to trow this old arcade away, so I brought it home. It came with King of fighters 2002, only defective thing is this old TV that powers off randomly

It's heavy af so I'm trying to replace this old TV with a flat screen, was hoping to see a rca or coaxial cable in the back brut no.

Can you help me out with this?

Going to upload more pictures of it, and I can provide more info for you on request

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>I'm trying to replace this old TV with a flat screen
do not fucking do this you absolute fucking faggot
Capacitors most likely wouldn't make it power off, bad caps give flicker, jailbars, distortion etc. I'm guessing the power supply is the issue. Neogeo runs on different voltages and pins than normal jamma setups, it's the same but different, if this was a conversion it's most likely hacked together. I would start with a new switching power supply and a jamma harness specifically pinned out for MVS you can find both easily online. A new power supply is maybe $15-25 on ebay and a new harness is about $10-25 on ebay as well. Sometimes the MVS harness is called a JAMMA+, if you go with a cheaper one, just know its gonna be chinese crap with super thin non-copper wire, it will work but it will all be in chinese and sometimes have random extra weird connections on it. Some Ebay sellers will include an english label, you definitely want that if you go cheap. Start with the basic electronics and work your way up to the CRT, MVS boards are notorious for leaking capacitors, so google that and check those as well. Remember old arcade cabinets are designed to be repaired, stay safe around that CRT, dont muck around it when it's hot, and if you need to adjust it, get some nylon adjustment tools.
As shitty as an LCD looks on an old arcade it's the easiest, safest and cheapest option if the monitor is kablooey.
you dumb?
That's a custom made, ugly ass piece of shit Arcade. The only thing worth something (OPs time) there are the internals.
It has a CRT which is amazing but the geometry is probably all fucked up.
Save the Arcade board and adapters.
Nobody's gonna buy that.
lol no nigget

My roomate is going to burn ny house down

Look at this shit.

Fucking idiot
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Besides gen workmanship no grounding, no cable protection on box exits, no covers, exposed terminals and what suspiciously looks like an alligator clip as a terminal, I see nothing wrong with this low voltage contraption. Being 12vdc, not even an electrical inspector can touch this. What the fuck is wrong with you OP? Fucking idiot.
Nice bag.
burning house down due to SD-card-failure-induced crash confirmed
Tryna figure this out too. What's the problem?
is the plastic shed that this is in near your house? if not no worries

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>I'm new to electronics. Where to get started?
It is an art/science of applying principles to requirements.
Find problem, learn principles, design and verify solution, build, test, post results, repeat

>Project ideas:

>Principles (by increasing skill level):
Mims III, Getting Started in Electronics
Geier, How to Diagnose & Fix Everything Electronic
Kybett & Boysen, All New Electronics Self-Teaching Guide
Scherz & Monk, Practical Electronics for Inventors
Horowitz and Hill, The Art of Electronics

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Yes, which is why you need to sample with a sampling frequency at least twice 20kHz. IIRC audio stuff uses something around 48kHz. It's the Nyquist sampling theorem.


Incorrect. It isn't a 90° phase shift, it's a 180° phase shift. The directionality comes instead from the buckets themselves being lifted/lowered by the clocks to force the charge to flow in one direction, see the image >>1774223. By connecting those capacitors to the opposite clocks and with no other changes you'd get data flowing in the other direction, assuming the ignoring and input stages on either end.

Well the common-gate amplifiers don't act like buffers, there's no way for the output impedance to be any much than the input impedance. But it is a small amount of gain that likely counterracts the resistive loss between each bucket movement. I guess you could tune the gain of the circuit by adjusting Vgg/Vcc. And the fact that the capacitors are tied to the clock lines instead of to ground is also a very important distinction to make.
Though the output stage at >>1774236 still doesn't make too much sense to me, is it meant to average two buckets? Or to show one bucket at one clock position and the other bucket at the other clock position? I also don't get the fact that the circuit ends at Vdd.

KiCAD is better than Eagle
Woah, I just realised I can use the multiple outputs of a BBD for some sort of analog DSP algorithm, like with those f(z), f(z-1) things that I did once
>Asking for fucking Eagle in 2020
>Can't even be assed to google it
IRF/Infineon has a bunch of options that are relatively cheap and quasi-jellybeanish enough to be sold by a bunch of alibay sellers, see IR21xx series for a variety of options, from single no-frills high (IR2117) side to self-oscillating half-bridge (IRS2153) to 3-phase full-bridge (IR2130), under a buck on ali

KiCAD loads Eagle layouts/schematics to some extent

>is it meant to average two buckets?
helps hold down the output with one bucket while the other is being "lifted", reduces output noise by a lot
>ends at Vdd
it's a reasonable place to dump that ~1pC of charge that has served its purpose. decouple it well
>helps hold down the output with one bucket while the other is being "lifted"
That's about what I assumed, I guess you could connect the 2 outputs of the MN3007 to have this same effect, which is actually done in the datasheet's example circuit.
>dump that ~1pC of charge
I'd have thought that leaving it floating with a 100nF cap (with parallel discharge resistor?) would do the trick, or just sink it into the input impedance of whatever device it's connected to. In the example circuit it's grounded, which isn't really what I think of when I hear Vdd, but you know, jfets.

The MN3007 also recommends an MN3101 BBD driver IC, which outputs the double clocks (presumably with a little dead-time) and also provides a Vgg of 14/15 times the 3101's input voltage. It's designed to run off a 15V supply (but can run from 8V to 16V) so this would output 14V, I'm not really sure why this is. The two clock outputs give at least 10V highs, which I imagine is to give a little headroom between the output and the V+ rail.

I'll probably add BBDs to my collection of of semi-obscure analogue ICs, alongside PLLs, mixers, TCAs, and optoFETs. Might get some cheap ADCs and DACs too, just to mess about with digital logic and audio. Maybe even some of those ultrasonic delay lines, but I think they're a little fast for most analog stuff I do/ Unless somehow mixing my signal to a higher frequency, delaying it, them mixing the result audible again would do anything.
Any suggestions?

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Its all massive , weeds and I need advice , will a Gardener dude be Better and cheaper ? or should I go in self ?
about a good more acre , Its Horrible like a old tarzan film , I IT coder , so manual shit ?? Im thinking of a week off work will sort it ? Wife thinks I not upto it ?
>>1774491Whisper she dying and I getting Her estate .. she loved the Garden .
Also see: >>>/out/1699731 if you want to continue gardening.
cheers but not very Great about Other senpai stuff ...
You can do it. Rent a brush mower.

I see a red door and I want it painted black. Should I scrape the red paint off first, or go right for the black paint over top?
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shut your whore mouth the stones are timeless
1: apply paint stripper
2: scrape off old paint
3: wash wood well
4: apply wood stain
5: drink your shitty black paint
The Stones have been supplanted by cool women of color
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>cool women of color
>women of color

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Does anyone know what this piece is called and if it can be replaced?
Also, bike thread.
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Ok bottom bracket always tighten the opposite of pedal movement so they don't tighten themselves and pedals tighten with pedal movement.
If right side of bike will loosen by turning to the right or towards front tire if left side towards the left towards front tire, if you have a chisel or flat head screwdriver you tap it with a hammer hard to get the lock collar loose.
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Get one of these and see if you can find bearings online, if you got inner, outer, width measurements probably find them somewhere
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>10yrs+ as bicycle mechanic
World's tallest midget here.

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Hello /sci/ friends, i wasn't too sure whether to make this thread here or on /diy/, but here goes the thread anyway, in the hopes that some of you might be able to instruct me on where to find some kind of useful literature regarding CNC machines.

I graduated from "Mechatronics and robotics" high school, but that was some 5 years ago, and all i can remember about CNC machines is the very basics of how they operate, the various head extensions they use, and the axis in which they can translate and rotate. I'm sad to say not much of the actual code remains in my memory, but i do have some faint recollection or rotational commands, and i remember the general format of insturctions:

(Name of Command) followed by (Spacial coordinates)
(Next command) followed by (Next coordinates)
and so on....

(please do correct me on the format if i'm mistaken)

What i want to know is is there a universal language or set of commands to be learned that are the same across all CNC machine models, or do they vary drastically from machine to machine? In other words, is there some kind of documentation out there that i can go through in order to catch up with the basics i need to start working as a CNC operator?

So, without waterboarding you further with irrelevant context, i would cordially ask you guys to dump whatever links or files might be useful for acquiring CNC knowledge.
6 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>last Cont, cunt.
You could pose this same question on the /diy/ eternal machinist thread (EMT). You might get more useful information than my rambly ass essay. Also, forgive me god for saying this, but reddit r/machinists, r/cnc, and r/manufacturing could lead you to some good resources.
Also available are local makerspaces, but those will have hippies and cost money. Local community colleges or trade schools will have classes, but those will have hippies and cost money.
If you have some disposable income, I highly suggest that you look into buying a 3d printer. Reading about stuff online is not a bad idea, but there really is no replacement for experience. Do the research phase of your journey in tandem with the actually making stuff phase.
>Reading about stuff online is not a bad idea, but there really is no replacement for experience

I uderstand, and ill be frank with you, i just want to know enough to get a job as a lowely CNC squire and start getting that precious experience. The most likely place i'll end up is Germany by the looks of it. Thanks for the valuable info
>i'd imagine that would be done by inserting 3D autocad models into the machine?
No, not usually. Simplest fucking thing as an example.
You have a bar in a lathe and you want it cut to an exact length. You first measure a bunch of stuff, how far out of the chuck the bar is sticking, where the tools are in space, how fast everything should go. Then you program like this.
>go to a safe place (always a good starting point)
>use tool #1 (a facing tool), go up to the part, then face it off at x speed
At this point the machine knows exactly where the end of the bar is, better than you could measure it
>use tool #2 ( a cutoff tool) go z distance toward the bar (z is the length you want), then cut off the bar
>go to a safe place
>be done
Putting in these orders is a lot easier than modeling the thing in CAD, using CAM to translate it to the machine, then running the part. That process usually has more problems too.
call the MaschinistEunonneJager or whatever the machinists union in germany is called, they will help you
Machinist here.
1- a lot of companies are moving away from having seats of traditional cad cam software (surface, mastercam) in favor of software integrated into 3d design software like solid works module cam works. Kn owing these programs is a huge bonus.

2- G-code knowledge is still mandatory for setup and run of machining centers because no post file is perfect and being able to read code will save you from inevitable crashes. Anyone who tells you that their post processor files are perfect and do not require editing is full of shit and has never set up and run a goddamn machine.

3- To learn G-code the best way is to download a G-code app on your phone (CNC assistant for example) which gives you lists of all G and M codes with good explanations of what they are and do. Then Follow along with a program and make sense of it. Remember G-gode is universal but M codes will change from machine to machine outside of the required ones (M01-M05 spindle commands M06 tool change, m30 program end and so forth).

4- IF you can show up at a job interview and read G-code and explain or hand write a program for them you are treated like a fucking god. No shit, I deal with a bunch of operators who only run prototraks and mazaks who look at me like a wizard when I can hand write a haas lathe with live tooling on a laptop in notepad.

How well will this emf detector work?
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It's gonna be shit because it's way too sensitive. 8,000,000x gain is enough to cause the output to saturate with a 1μV input. Your LED would be lit up all the time and your detector would never convey any useful information. It'd be a toy and a pretty shitty one at that.
The proper way to do this involves a tuned input filter, swept local oscillator, mixer, and some other stuff, you can have fun figuring that out.
>Quadruple transistor cascade
Lol, that will probably be so sensitive that literally breathing on it will saturate it.

All of those circuits will 'work', but the utility is pretty low.
Since they just react to any EM or RF presence, you can't really tell what set it off, whether it was a cell phone or static electricity built up on your jacket.
Would the resistor strength meter work better?

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I'm want to make a vivarium for my brooksi kingsnake, but I'm not sure where to start, if I can get some links or some helpful tips thatd be appreciated, I've done some research but I just need some advice from people who are experienced in the matter.
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>vivarium for my brooksi kingsnake, but I'm not sure where to start

use succulent plants without broat flat leaves. get a soil with good drainage, plenty of sand, not peat moss. have excellent air circulation. reptiles are prone to fungus. maybe rig up a PC fan for air circ. you will need lighting for the plants. I prefer halogen full spectrum but they're hard to find these days. LED's are OK but I hate them and think they don't work as welll. make sure the top is open: light will get converted to heat so it needs to be able to vent off. give the snake a shady place to get out of the light and heat.

do some youtube research. I could go on for literally hours. look up vivarium designs online.

again, circulation circulation circulation. if it's too humid or hot you're gonna kill the snek. use drought tolerant succulents.
>brooksi kingsnake

OK I just looked it up and they're from south florida so an extra bit of humidity won't be an issue. you'll still want to avoid stagnant atmosphere. this means you can choose more water tolerant plants and automated irrigation. you'll still want a cool dry place, a hot dry place, a cool wet place and a hot wet place. use those as quadrants. your snek will go where it feels comfortable. always keep temps between 65 and 85 degrees farenheit. get a thermometer and a humidity meter for each temperature and humidity quadrant. don't go below 40% humidity or over 90%.

> vivaroum is an ecosystem
Isnt vivarium any kind of container with life tho?
What you describe sounds like a paludarium, aka wet terrarium
"Bioactive" is the keyword you're looking for.

Look up SerpaDesign on YT.
Just release it outside where you found it.

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