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Discuss anything welding related, post welds and welding gear, critique each others weld and help each other become better welders.

Here my first weld in 6 months on a 4” sched 40 pipe, looks like shit but Infigure it could be worse, I’m hoping to get back in thenryhmn of things so my welds don’t look like shit, what do you niggers think?
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that sucks man keep your stick on the ice though we're all gonna make it
I try to think that way but when the best case scenario is I revert to how I was before starting welding school but 4 years older it's hard not to fall into suicidal despair

4 years is fuck all man i wasted a looooot more than 4 years...
1st time weld with fluxcore and a shitty mask protector with a lenses that is too dark.
>>shit happened and I developed a drinking problem
Sounds like you know what the problem is. Which means you're presented with a choice. Is fixing it more important to you than not fixing it?

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Tiny Peace Was Never An Option Edition

Old thread: >>1570602

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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enjoy your cholera kiddo
You act like bacteria actively take cover from cleansers. Id bet my left 3rd toe some foaming scrubbing bubbles would clean the fuck out of 3D prints.
then do it.
i'm not going to stop you
Spores are a lot smaller than the spaces water will flow into (surface tension) if the material is hydrophobic. Ozone could burn them out, but it breaks down most plastics too. Autoclaving would kill everything, and a bath of supercritical carbon dioxide could wash out the tiny spaces, but that's not very practical for home use.
Thats what the foaming cleaners are for though? Forcible clean. Whatever, what should I cover my prints in, salad bowl sealant?

Old thread 404'd.

Enjoy this pic of my new batch of cider, which I am thinking of flavouring with some spices. Which would you use out of cinnamon, cloves, and vanilla?
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>Throw Bentonite in for clearing
just stick it in the fridge dude
tell us more
Or let it rest.. it's Mead ffs, you really need to leave it for a while unless it's low abv.

I let my shit sit in secondary for a year before doing anything. Never had a single stubborn cloudy batch, even my heavily fruited brews.
As that's the only part you guys are complaining about, the procedure is fine I figure? I mean, I can just let it clear naturally or by cold crashing, that's not what I'm asking. I want to know if I can skip secondary completely, as I don't really see the reason for it if I can age it in bottles anyways.
>a packet of yeast.
Is that normal yeast that you'd use for eg bread dough?
Also how big is the packet?

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Hey DIY, I keep the kitty boxes changed but the odor of ammonia is still occasionally strong.

Enter the 185nm ozone generator

Any anons with experience using ozone/uvc to clean air? I was thinking of getting this bit of kit and adding a motion sensor with timer to run this for a few minutes after the kitties visit the litter box (fully shielded light output wise of course)
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the top layer of your skin is dead because of ozone UV breaks down O-O oxygen, into O O
which quickly recombine into unstable O-O-O ozone, which metabolizes vitamin D.

this layer of dead skin protects you from UV
if you peel off the outer layer of skin, and expose the lower tissue to UV, the flesh will die and scar. Prolonged exposure to ozone will blacken the skin, and california says it causes cancer.
so your skin makes ozone, from sunlight, but breathing ozone, or getting it in your eyes is real bad
No, it's the high voltage that is used to ionize the drum.

having a bit of nose-stalgia here. i remember when i was younger and they had those massive as fuck printers, and i could always taste/smell something like electricity or something. was that the cause? my mother was always photocopying shit for her work and your guys comments about xerox and ozone made me think of that weird sensation.
you said that ozone breaks down in under an hour

except when ozone has something else to attack,it's an aggressive oxidizer, that produces a number of additional toxic compounds and gasses. ozone attacks carpet fibers, destroying them for weeks without breaking down
That is the only way. Otherwise it is impossible.

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I don't know when and where I should use capacitors
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>that black car at ground zero
I do flameproof enclosure repairs using mig, but fail miserably at home when using arc

its probably your 80$ 40 amp welder

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Hey fellas, vintage TV collector here. I'm thinking about making a local broadcast that all my old TVs could tune into without needing a converter box. Pic related is my rough setup. Basically it's Android PC > HDMI 2 A/V converter > A/V 2 coxial antenna converter (set to channel 4) > electrically amplified antenna (connected to TV output of previous converter) My question is, will it work?
That's gotta be the cheapest balun transformer coupling idea I've ever seen.

I'm not an expert, but I think you'd want to ditch that antenna you've got, get a RF amplifier that can do a couple of watts, and use a 7 foot wire as the sending antenna.
But will it broadcast in it's current state?
I don't think those indoor tv antenna amplifier work for transmitting.
The other Hand, if you change (solder) the internal connection of the indoor antenna and it's output ... It would amplify... Something....
I honestly don't know what will happen but you have my attention, please proceed.

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Arduino / AVR / PIC / STM32 / Embedded thread goes here.
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Most servos will work with 3.3v logic. Have you even tried it out?
>could I just wire them in parallel so they receive the same data from the Arduino?
They all have the same address, so probably? I don't know if they respond anything back to the mcu
If they have the same bus address, then in theory you can. But if they return an ACK, you MIGHT get issues.
Only way to find out is to try.
Good place to start:
I had a friend dabble with it, seems to work
I'd solder a jumper on one of them so it would get a different address. Because you MIGHT want to get a different image off different display, and changing that mid project might be complicated.

I'm a 31 neet who never had any ambition or project except to enjoy life, and I failed badly at it.

Last year, on a personal ads website I saw a derelict house for sale for cheap in the countryside. I thought it could be nice if I bought it and restored it, maybe to live there if I can or to sell it back and make money.
That was just a silly, empty idea.
But a few months ago my two grandparents died and I'm set to inherit some money. And today I looked it up and saw that the house was still for sale and the price down.

It's an old stone house, over 300m2, with 14000m2 of land, right on the outside of a little town with a bit of tourism, with a storefront on the street. They say the roof is okay. The rest is badly damaged. It's 30 000 euros. If I buy it I would have 20 000 left to start working on it.

Do you think I could do it ? I'm not afraid of manual work, and I did some restoration work for other people before, but I don't have experience with anything that grand.

Pic related.
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I meant 10-17 btw. That's the torrent available at 1337.

Seems like a lot is on youtube as well. Here's one for OP:
>meant 10-17 btw.
yeah onnit, good man cheers..
vpn-on stops me 4ch shitposting as well, but, theyve also got their bad points
Talk the down to 20 or 25k and buy it. If it's on the edge of a mildly tourist town set the rest of your money to making at least one liveable and rentable space where people don't have to see the derelict shit. If you can get someone to rent it that's money coming in. You can make decent enough money most places doing something like organic chicken farming or whatever.

If you fuck that up then start going to property get rich conventions in your area and convince some idiot there you've got something great to invest in, get a loan, then flip it or something.
I'm on a metered connection so I won't bother to read the rest of the thread to see if anyone has already suggested this, but look into any sort of grants or funding or tax cuts or whatever that your town/region/nation has in place for people doing remodeling. if it's an old stone house in the countryside near a tourist area then you might be able to get funds to restore it. having a cozy stone house with smoke coming out of the chimney is much more aesthetically pleasing to tourists than an abandoned dump.

finding this sort of information can be a pain in the ass if you're a neet like me and only search for things online. your best bet would be to physically go to government buildings and ask people directly, or call them on the phone - if you don't immediately get in touch with the correct person then you'll be directed to them.

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So I've got JBL GTO 938 speaker with alot of dirt in/on it. The question is, is there a way to clean out all the shit in the voice coil gap without reconing?

I'm trying to decorate a piece of metal.
I'd like to electroplate it in gold and adorn it with an ornament made of gold.

So I was thinking that I would want to 3D model and print the ornament, build a mold around it, make a wax version of the model using the mold, then pack a sand cast around the wax and pour molten gold into the wax, which would melt and bubble out, replaced by the more dense gold.

Then I'd crack the cast open, trim and polish the gold ornament, then attach it to my electroplated piece of metal.

Are there any glaring flaws with this plan?

My main issue right now is figuring out where to get the materials to do all of this. I vaguely remember doing electroplating calculations in Chem 2 in college. Can I just buy gold electroplating solution and apply a voltage differential to the solution and my metal piece to cause the gold to migrate to it?

And is my take on casting a gold ornament correct? Is there an easier way to do it?

I have no experience or knowledge about these things, so where do I find out best practices and lowest costs?
no, you want to use "Lost PLA" method, not whatever weird stuff you are saying here.

You make an investment mold with plaster with your PLA 3d printed thing in it (add some sprues), dry it, then heat up the plaster to about 1100 degrees to burn out all the PLA. Now you have a plaster negative with sprues.

Depending on the shape of your thing, you'll need to vacuum it or spin cast it to get decent detail.

Use silver or SI bronze first, don't start with gold because it's expensive as fuck.

Youtube "Lost PLA" will get you good results.
Thanks for the recommendation. It hadn't occurred to me.

My main concern is not having access to a kiln or anything else for achieving 1100 degree temps. I only need to make two small figures about 2 inches long and thinner than a drinking straw for most of their length, so I was thinking I could just put a spool of gold wire into a crucible made of any metal with a much higher melting point and blowtorch it until the gold liquefied, then pour it into the mold.

Barring that, I do know how to build a kiln a la Primitive Survival, but it takes a while.
Gold? Or gold looking?

Let's talk about the /diy/ shit we're proud of or just excited about.

Here are some prompts I thought of. Lets do some blogfagging:
>What is some challenge you recently overcame that you didn't really have a chance to gloat about?
>What is something you learned recently about DIY shit that finally clicked?
>What project are you working on that you're excited about?
>For /diy/nosaurs with kids, what was the last project you did with your loin-spawn?

Myself, I had taken a break from trying to learn electronics repair.

>mfw shit is actually clicking right now.

I also bought my first oscilloscope, a Tektronix 2235 for $90 that is working fine so far. Gonna fix some synths and shit since I also lurk /mu/.

Take a break from shipping containers and blog with me.
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They suck. Use nichrome balls and a tumbler. Then all you need is foil.
That looks like it could work pretty well.

That looks like a deathtrap but also that it works well
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Thanks. I botched the first set because I forgot to account for the brass sole thickness when I glued up the planes and I would have to remove too much wood get them to work. Threw them in the trial and error bucket and I'm going to start over after my guests leave on Sunday. So this won't be a video.

Like I said, I dun goofed. I did start working on the brass soles for set #2 today but decided I needed to research how to cut the 45 and 60 degree bevels in the brass a little more before I try again.

So I put them away, cut up some 80CrV2 barstock on my Hillbilly SWAG table and shaped a blade for one of the marking knives. I also pinned and glued up one handle that is drying over night. Both bevels are hand ground to 135 degrees.

I've been flattening the back of this on my precision whetstone while watching Arrested Development tonight.
finally learning about electronics and I’m so enthused. I want to be a wizard and this is a prerequisite.

short term goal is to build my own analogue synth. long term goal I’d like to build a computer (including OS), mostly for educational and game use. hopefully it’s as good as TempleOS
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>GF has a house built
>Tells them we want warm white down lights
>Ends up with cool/neutral
>She won't confront the builder/won't let me
>Figure I'll just change the bulbs
>No bulbs
>No screws
>Try pulling the fixture out of the ceiling
>Spring loaded
>Figure I won't mess with it because not my house/insurance/not qualified for mains power
>Been living here for a year
>Thinking about buying replacement fixtures and having my electrician uncle install them
>Look up replacement videos today
>There's a fucking switch on the back to pick the color AND the fixtures go into regular wall sockets in the ceiling so no mains risk

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What do you guys think of this guy?

He appears to know what he's talking about but he never talks about his qualifications.
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Didn't mods used to ban these shill threads?
Like Ave and Wranglestar in particular?
Let's all subscribe so he can buy himself another $100,000 milling machine.
Fucking quack. All he does is bring simple manufacturing shit to normies, literally shit that anyone could do with a couple hours of fucking around in a shop. He acts like he's some sort of wizard while talking like a retarded redditor.
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ur gay
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He's alright, been kinda boring lately. Not sure what's changed.

Im building myself an e bike from a yamaha yz 500 1972 motorcycle frame. I have also made the 57 volt lithium iron phosphate battery bank too. They are being placed and mounted in the aluminum box I also fabricated myself. Hopefully this spring I'll be driving around aimlessly and enjoying the fruits of my labour.

It is hard work but the concept is easy. Charger charges the battery, the battery powers the controller, the controller controls the motor and the motor makes you move. They all correspond with each other in terms of voltage and amperage. It was good fun fabricating the E-motorcycle so far and I will continue it until it is complete, maybe ill post again when it is all suited up with plastics, lights, seat and all.
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Based OP, 40km is still enough for having some fun in your neighborhood.

Maybe you can mount some extra batteries through something like pic related?
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The battery while was i was constructing the monstrosity, the E-tape was used for safety, so i didn't shock myself accidentally by touch terminals, I soldered the connections together and looking back I really shouldn't have done this, I should have bolted them together 100%, i regret the construction of my battery bank immensely

As you can see there is no way for me to balance the battery cells via balance charging, a way i got around this is by getting a 3 celllogs and balancing all the cells voltages to 3.3v. The process is time consuming and bothersome but hey it works for balancing and I saved some money.
Yes I could connect 2 other battery banks in parallel to my original battery.. Seems like a hell lot of work and money haha. I might if the milage is really bad
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The battery is disgusting, and im ashamed of my soldering job lmfao, im a novice and im just doing this in my spare time, unfortunately my short comings are quite apparent.
I downloaded the User manuel for my controller if that helps someone

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Currently, I want to replicate an electronic device that generates electricity thanks to the use of an electric motor with gravity. But I do not have much information on how to replicate an efficient device.
I would like to know what kind of electronic motors, and other devices I need like: Capacitors, or diode bridge, and LED diodes.
I understand that an electronic motor like the one in the image would generate electricity, but for about 2 minutes. How would this time increase? Either by means of pinions, or pulleys.
I'm sorry if I was not clear, I'm using a translator.
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Preferably one without field windings.
Thanks for helping. I am trying to get some micro wave motor.
How do you know he's not going to use the gravity of a flowing creek? Huh, huh, Mr Smarty-pants?!

what does a hole have to do with OP?
I know, nothing!

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