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I finished trade school about 1 month ago, and i start fulltime on may 28th as an electrical apprentice. What am i in for? I've worked in the field a bit but never for a company, I just worked with a master doing side work. Also tips would be nice.
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Ironworkers, or esp rod busters like him have one of the hardest jobs in construction. There's nothing to get around it.

Welding trades (sheet metal, pipefitter, boilmaker) aren't too bad. Electrical is rather light work unless working industrial. Carpenters/Framers don't get paid shit.
agreed on everything you said.

offset multipliers : tangent (angle / 2)
adjustment multiplier (for concurrent bends) : tangent (angle / 2)
Union electrical apprentice here.

We only have 30 days of school a year for 5 years. There's no topic we cover in depth. Our "schooling" is an absolute joke.

Maybe that's why so many guys who turn out don't know their shit, but yeah, 20 weeks is more than enough to master a subject.
I remember you from other threads, you should hurry up and quit. Put your resume together and send it off. Then just call in sick on interview days, see if you can get a few for the same day.
This will save your life one day: Electricity is one woman you dont fuck around with.

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Hey /diy/

I willingly undertook a huge landscaping project and it has been going swimmingly thus far. However, I'm looking to built two (four technically) retaining walls, approximately 4' high at the max. Please excuse this dogshit drawing - hopefully it conveys what I'm working with: I have a trail leading down to a wooded area which will have a firepit. The trail and that entire hillside slopes downward (as opposed to sloping upward). I want to build two retaining walls, one on each side of the trail. The walls will remain level from their highest point, with the wall technically getting shorter as you move up the trail into the lawn. The same will happen going left and right (in the image). I would (WOOD) prefer to use sections of raw logs as the "face" of each step. Once the walls are built then I would fill in the area that is neon green with soil, and plant grass seeds so that the lawn extends evenly to that edge of the wall. I know I need gravel to line the walls underneath the grass so that water flows freely through it, and I need openings every so often for the water to flow out of the wall.

What other things should I take into consideration for this? I know that people fuck up retaining walls often, so I want to avoid belonging to that category of person. Are there any good youtube tutorials that you recommend? I was thinking of building the wall mold out of plywood, lined with poly to prevent sticking or odd patterns, then filling the mold cavity with a combination of rocks and concrete. Would this work or would this not work? Hit me with information.
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Stopped right there. OP is faggot.
how do I completely kill only a particular group of trees on a property? they're box elder trees and I fucking hate box elder bugs. I don't want to damage the other trees nearby, so no cancer chemicals please
>t. primary school dropout
Killing the trees won't work, they'll just feed on other trees. The trick is to keep them from surviving winter. https://www.doyourownpestcontrol.com/boxelder.htm If you're absolutely dead set on killing the boxelder trees, girdle them.
>tfw mowed my lawn Sat morning because drunk ass landscapers show up whenever they feel like it
>they show up 2 hours later
At least he will spend more time cleaning up the bushes and stuff when I do the lawn right before he comes.

Asked the landlord if we can find somebody better and he’s like “Sure, pay whoever you find and I’ll cut $50/mo off the rent”. I think this drunk is some family friend who gives him a good price. I could do it myself but I’m not trying to spend half my weekend out there since there’s lots of bushes and trees that always need work. It’s easiest to keep the drunk and mow the front lawn when we get rain and he doesn’t show up for a couple weeks.
>Killing the trees won't work, they'll just feed on other trees
but they're not attracted to the box elder trees?

>girdle them
will do. thanks for the informative response.

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OC Edition.
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We used to lose about a power supply a year to geckos shorting them out looking for someplace warm.
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This is on a ship, isn't it?
Pretty sure he means the box in the middle.

hi DIY taiwan's nice this time of the year
how would a small/medium business go about splice/tapping/hooking into powerlines to get free power
from what I've found the use of 'reflectometers' to find any fault in the wiring within hours and installing smart meters have done a lot to prevent theft
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Buy solar panels. Enjoy free electricity.
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pay those free maintenance costs and average a free $0.20/KW over the panel's lifetime too
as >>1609213 and >>1609203 mentioned whether you steal by installing your own line or messing with the meters the company will eventually notice and find you
splicing/hooking into power lines will be easily noticed and localized within hours
only solution is to hide your line and where it's connected
only viable options are to bury it, work it into the overhead lines well enough or so far away that they'll take a while to notice, or somehow monitor your spliced line so that when inspectors show up you can disconnect and avoid legal trouble
if half the third world can do it it cna't be that hard to mad happen
>taiwan's nice this time of the year
>splice/tapping/hooking into powerlines to steal power
go steal power back in Africa, you fucking nigger
buy a shit ton of batteries - preferably USB battery banks, and goto public areas that have free to use USB ports or mains power. charge enough and take them home
Buy electricity. Enjoy free electricity.

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"with a little knowledge and foreskin" Edition

Old thread: >>1605319

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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>cancer fumes
I only have the one printer producing ABS parts. PLA is about as harmless as burning candles.
We are moving. Marlin 2 is running on the SKR 1.3 with correct microstepping settings. Getting it set up was a bit complex, but I've got that sweet sweet 32 bit goodness. I have some TMC2208s on the way as well, excited to try those.

I've also confirmed that I'm getting issues with the octoprint connection dropping out, as well as not being able to connect to the server via my wifi network. Tomorrow I'll be trying to fix that. I've also got to get the inductive sensor working but I'm also considering just replacing that with a conventional endstop switch.

Overall, I'm not quite unhappy with what I have, but I'm certainly not thrilled with the state of development of this printer. This video comes to mind: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vSsGR5UlaDg
What about petg?
Burning candles are cancerogen
Breathing gives you cancer

Hi /diy/, /k/ here.

I have about 500 pounds of stuff in my closet, not including clothes which is probably another 100-150 pounds. So with me in there, that's... a lot.

When do I need to start worrying about floor sagging or put in jacks under the floor? House has a crawl space btw.
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>why would a car enthusiast have 3 cars when you can only drive like 2 at the most
>mfw see this and no day of the rope
Oh shit you're the other transparent grip guy.

Can confirm the LCR guy is MIA

america: the closet edition
You're better off not using a pressure pot with that mold anyway; looks bubbly. The pressure will just compress the bubbles and distort the mold. If you're going to use a pressure pot, you need to vacuum your rubber before you make the mold.

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Can we talk about PLCs?

Any of you lads work in industrial control systems? What are your favourite/least favourite PLC systems to use? Any horror stories to share?
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For the last year I've mostly done nothing but program B&R PLCs in Structured Text.

Can't say much about other brands or languages. Wish ladder would die, but I understand not everybody is willing to learn ST.

People shit talk a lot about Arduinos but having played with them helped me much more than any class I ever took. The PLC works like an Arduino but:

1) Runs many tasks together, each with its own "Setup" and "Loop" code.

2) Has better timing control. Each task guarantees that it will run every X milliseconds, otherwise the PLC crashes (this is a good thing as it lets you know you need faster code or better hardware for your goal).

3) Many typical programming and electrical problems are already taken care of. The debugger is essential. Networking and HMI are relatively easy to setup.

4) If wired correctly, it's hard to break or burn anything.

I've made lots of state machines, and this is a concept that can be studied on the Arduino.
Why do you wish that ladder would die? It's a pretty easy thing to use and it's really nice for visual live debugging.
I don't have a huge amount of experience with them, I've had to use them on a couple projects and I worked with them in school, so I don't really see the advantage of ST.

Should basically just be able to turn one into the other with a fairly simple interpreter right?
For complicated tasks, writing code (ST) can be much easier and cleaner than writing ladder logic.

>Should basically just be able to turn one into the other with a fairly simple interpreter right?
Not necessarily. You can fairly easily "convert" ladder logic into working ST code but the reverse is not true, if you try to convert structured text to ladder logic automatically the equivalent ladder logic might end up being a nasty rat's nest of a state machine just to replicate what the ST does.
I work with dozens of Contrologix {ab} plcs in a semi large mining and refinery, along with various other brands in one off applications like GE 90/70s, abb, etc for independent systems.

Rockwell is like a really good truck but no reverse gear... Watch where you park. Also you really want to build their distributed products with scrutiny. Plan for outages and downloads. Read the kbs. Don't update without reason. Match all client patch revisions. They do have a nicer price point. But I wouldn't use them for hoisting or SIL 3.

The biggest nightmare is not the plcs, it's the techs. They always assume programming error or issue instead verifying the circuits in the field. Sometimes I use structured text and it drives them crazy.
I’m integrating some linear motion sensors into our old GE 90/70s to replace some limit switches on large presses. Then in a few years I’ll get to do it again when our upgrade to Allen Bradley reaches this end of the mill. If we had already switched I’d have just rewritten everything in SFC instead of this rats nest of ladder someone wrote.

Oh and fuck step 7 right in its stupid fucking face.

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Where did my tenth go?
Thread hymn.


Last thread:boards.4channel.org/diy/thread/1600483

>Haas automation videos.
>Titans of CNC
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If it's not made poorly, it should last very long in PCB, but I've never milled PCBs. Probably the only concern would be copper gumming it up, but I don't know if such a small amount can do it. Also you'll probably break a lot of them since they are thin and fragile.
the gold stuff should be titanium plating and the seller boasts a high quality... but then again, the seller is Ping Pong
If they work will i will order a whole crate of them since they are so cheap and also use super flow feeding rates to prevent breaking
With chinkshit it's usually things like the quality of the steel and quality of the machining that might be poor. Carbide chinkshit is usually still high quality, HSS is hit or miss. For PCBs it should be good enough anyway.
The ones that can drill are called "center cutting" end mills.

If it doesn't have the flutes go all the way to the center then don't try drilling with it.
and drilling with an end mill usually makes long stringy chips so plunge down a little ways then go back up to break the chip, etc. a peck-drilling strategy.

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How do i get my fucking patio to stop doing this shit.

I guess there's a low spot or something since whenever it rains nothing really drains off of it. I think it's pretty old, there's sand under the bricks but dirt has worked its way between them and under as well. I'm trying to get it to look good but the dirty water just ends up on the brick again since it won't fucking go away.

Also, the lamp post is crooked but that's not a priority.
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Maybe because the downspout shot water directly into center of the patio.

At least buy a longer down spout and run it somewhere lower, it will help a surprising amount, its dirt cheap and you have to do it anyway at some point.
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Maybe let it go to the bathroom instead of being forced to hold it until this kind of stuff happens
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That leads to undermining of the brick
You need a subbase and a change of grade
Shit should slope away from your house
There are so many things wrong in this picture its almost like it's intentionial
>almost like it's intentionial
This, cant tell if troll or made by a drunk 30 years ago while drunk before it starts to rain tommorow.

>>1614393 ->
Seconded, This could be done in an afternoon and would most likely push the problem away for at least a decade or more. You don't have to pull up much, just enoughf to squeze the pipe in there.
Just get a couple of rain barrels or put storage under patio if you cant infiltrate water fast there

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Turns out oil soaked paper towels burn very quietly.
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Don't weld in sneakers even if it's just a quick bead. A piece of slag landing in your shoe will make a believer out of you and will ruin a sock.

Angle grinders continue to revolve the disk for a while after you turn them off.
Related: while using a chipping hammer, wear safety glasses. Fresh slag in the eye sucks
why? for short periods this sounds fine

Same with bench grinders. Turns out those big stone wheels have quite a bit of momentum and stopping them with your fingers hurts.

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Im trying to remake the board game The Quest for Shangri-La. And I require a video of the board and each individual card and piece of the game. I want to recreate it to enjoy playing the game with my Friends without paying 500$ for it.
/tg may have the answer
/tg/ here; we're pretty retarded, but we're not ICP levels of retarded.

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let me guess the pos with fins
place breaker bar on other side and put a floor jack under it..start jacking, break nut loose
My ex gfs grandma had carpet in the bathroom, was actually very comfy desu, she had a big mat around the toilet and a nice fluffy rug outside the shower and cleaned the carpet on the reg. Was fucking sweet desu.
>Using hammer drill to put some plugs for conduit saddles into breeze block cladding
>Asian customer, no engrish, hovering over my shoulder the whole job
>Start at the top, working my way down, half a dozen holes or so
>Pop the bottom hole open
>Water starts pissing out
>Oh fuck what the fuck I only went like an inch in Jesus Christ
>Asian lady shrieking in the background
>Water jet slowly subsides
>Realised it must have been water buildup in the hollow of the breeze block wall over 50-60 years
>Try to explain this shit to no engrish bitch
>Eventually calls her grandson who speaks 0.1 engrish
>Trying to explain this shit

Shoot me now
A masonry bit in a drill with hammer action is not friction drilling.

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Scientist have discovered that using white out on your teeth can help make a lasting impression.
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Just make sure to neutralize the bleach by gargling with high alcohol mouth wash afterwards.
Great tip! Lead paint is also good, has a beautiful pigmentation to it
And it is...
daily prostate massages
Now THIS I can get behind!

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So this guy apparently built a ladder.
What has /diy/ built recently?
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what would you anons pay for this thing?

wondering if its worth selling
Its not suited for the modern tactical environment, id pay you to keep it out of my zones of acessment.

it looks like its just a pocket knife, not a switchblade
Probably $30 for anons, richer folk who don't like mass produced stuff may pay upwards of $70.

What's the blade made of? Looks like a pretty nice knife.
Paper. Take some paper and glue a wing of paper to the sides of the rafter, fold the paper over across the gap and glue to the opposite side of the next rafter. Do this on every other segment. To cover the missing segments, glue an area overlapping the top of the already covered segments. Paint on some paper mache paste or plaster or something (I don't know what would work for this) to stiffen it up and texture it if you want.

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Welp, what do y'all think? I sent the link to my realtor tonight.


Assuming the foundation's good, and the plumbing and electrical isn't from 1932, it seems like the potential is there.

I'm no professional by any means, but I would consider myself quite good with tools, knowledgeable in a lot of areas, and very willing to seek out help when I need it. I have extra time, and a decent and reliable source of income.

tl;dr am I retarded to think I can live in and fix up a bank from 1884?
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>am I retarded to think I can live in and fix up a bank from 1884?
Bank layouts are nearly always shit for living in, the insides will not flow like a house should at all and will be hard to modify in any way.
You can look up most of this shit on PACER and find out exactly what he did...

Which is likely molest some kid, but probably not full blown intercourse.
How should a house flow?
You generally want to get easily from one associated space to another i.e. a kitchen wants to be near the outside and the dining room, dining room near the reception areas, receptions near the entrance etc. And also not have rooms that are contained within one another or long windy corridors, and also the rooms to be good sizes (like a master bedroom).

So in a normal house you usually have a single access (stairs and landing) to a bunch of rooms that terminate inside the house upstairs i.e. bedrooms, spare rooms and bathrooms. Most of these rooms are roughly the same size too, whereas in a bank you're more likely to find a little corridor, large multi employee offices, and tiny single or 2 person offices. These are sometimes easy to fix but not always.

The downstairs format is built around the large reception and the large vault in a bank. Typically if a room has little access to the outside or other room on the ground floor it's pretty small and maybe has a toilet in a modern house. In a bank that's the vault, so often there's a bunch of wasted space with windy corridors, and it's massive, and it's not plumbed in, and the walls are heavily reinforced so no breaking in and changing anything.
Bank is the best place to convert to a home, it's bullet-proof and break-in proof, the perfect place to hole out during the bugaloo.

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