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What's the best way to bury paper underground without it getting wet or dirty? I need to bury 800 sheets of A4 paper and it needs to stay underground for 6 years. Thanks for your help
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If I'm ever an insane Chinese god-emperor I will do this
Exchange for diamonds, then you bury that shit without fear of inflation.
>Don't stress
>I put Mercury in my ass like a suppository and kept it there
I think your problems were manifest long before you decided to do this.
Plus: Other Currencys may be made out of wood paper. Not everywhere is America.
>worth money

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What is this thing actually used for?
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Righty tighty, right?

Has science gone too far?

I have a friend who was too cheap to replace his crank handle. Grabbed a pair of vise grips and left them there.

One day he was 2 hours away from home and his flex line blew. Took the vise grips off the crank and clamped them on the line. He had his window down though and had to pull over an hour later because it was raining too hard and crawl under to get them off the brake line, crank up his window and then reclamp the line. Was funny
What’s the best project to break out the socket wrench!
"Quickie handle for saw blades"
Good one. Genuinely like that.

I want to take some electronic components from a broken radio I own, but the way they are soldered makes it extremely difficult to just desolder them.

Can I just cut their legs with my scissors (without removing the entire legs from the thing, of course)? Or will that fuck them up?
it will fuck up your scissors, that's for sure. and then you are going to have components with tiny, short, impossible to use leads
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Get a heat gun, heat up the whole board, pull components off with a pair of long nosed pliers.

Buy some component cutters ffs
>Can I just cut their legs
>with my scissors

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Hey /diy/. I have an electrical plate cover in my master closet, which was the location for an optional outlet with the home (Centex bullshit home). I removed the plate and discovered wiring behind it. Tested the wires with a voltmeter, they're not hot. However, I can't figure out what they're used for. Anyone have an idea what pic related is commonly used for? It definitely doesn't look like any Romex I'm familiar with seeing. Thanks in advance.
OP here. If I had to guess I'd say it's wiring for the prewired security system. What say you?
That's low voltage I think, not for a receptacle, it is probably data/telephone lines or security as the other poster mentioned
more than likely you are correct..
it kind of looks like banana cable they sometimes use when they dont actually know what they are doing. I am guessing the blue is a shielded cable of some sort?

commercial and apartment buildings use some red and black wires for notifier and simplex type fire alarm systems but with the way its bundled I would doubt its that.

OOOHHHh it could be for an intercom system they used to have in some homes.
I'm working on this myself.

How many wires can I allocate to a single wire connector?

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Does anyone know what this wallpaper pattern is called? I need to get something as close to it as possible.
"Butthole Diamonds"
You best guess ia showing up at wallpaper store and looking/asking for the pattern
"Grandma Janice'
"Funeral home"
yes, it's called wallpaper

How do you recycle your failed 3d prints? Any plans on how to build a recycler that I can use to melt down my failed prints and rewind it back to filament form?
I just throw them in the recycle bin meant for plastics. There are filament extruders out there but they cost about as much as a printer and the diameter of the recycled filament is likely not going to be as good as a new roll. Even ignoring all that, i havent seen any good solutions for a grinder that would just take any piece and break it into pellets with a relatively uniform size.
How should I dispose of my resin printers waste. I mean the stuffs toxic right so I should just toss it if I care alittle right? Do I really have to cure every tissue and support?
>How should I dispose of my resin printers waste

Pour it in a tray and leave it out in the sun. Throw the result out.

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Anyone know a good place where I can buy just the led board for this thing? I want to use it for a custom mask but I would rather not pay for the plastic shell only to throw it out.
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I know a guy who sells a neopixel version. You can buy it as a DIY kit for $50 or so

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Hey /diy/! I received this awesome Kenmore Elite fridge off a guy who had it diagnosed with a bad compressor and didn't want to pay the insane repair bill. It would run for 20 minutes then make a loud BZZZRT then start up again. After using a piercing valve to add a little more r134a refrigerant and letting it run for a couple hours it was still warm inside. So after watching tons of youtube tutorials for fridge techs, I decided "hell, I'm going to make a project out of this and try to fix it myself!" Fridge was free anyway.

So I've bought a new LG compressor (newer model that replaces the known faulty LG ones), new dryer and service valves, cheap vacuum pump and manifold gauges, and a flush kit with AC system solvent. (i'll rent the LG update jig off ebay.)

My main concern here is making sure I get the system sealed up properly after I flush all the lines. All I have is a MAP torch with flux and silver bead solder. The lines are all copper, so is this like plumbing or do I need different materials to seal the system properly? All the brazing vids I watch, their acetylene torch nearly melts the copper. My little MAP torch doesn't seem to be able to do that.

I don't plan on trying to sell the fridge if I fix it. If it works then I have an awesome new fancy fridge to replace my cheapo one. If it's toast then I scrap it and now I have all these new tools for future projects!
31 replies and 8 images omitted. Click here to view.
First video isn’t too bad except that’s a commercial fridge or freezer from the look of it. I have never used system flush, and I don’t know anyone who’s ever used it on residential fridges.. other than that and the dialog being cue card obnoxious it’s not to bad.

Second video is on an older lg, that is not a linear compressor which is why he can charge it by amp draw.. that won’t work on a linear compressor.. also if you look he doesn’t change the compressor, he probably fixed a leak and put that new (supco) filter dryer in.. since it’s not a linear compressor it’s more tolerant of moisture having been in the system.

Last guy at least says he is using a generic filter dryer... however if you watch him vacuum it down he just points to the gauges and says “still in vacuum so it’s good”. The scale he’s looking at is inches of mercury, goes from 0 to -30.. microns takes that scale and splits it into 750000. Lg recommends pulling below 350 and holding it below 750 for at least ten minutes.. (that embraco video mentions this but doesn’t show the process, also the pump they have on that cart is I think a 15-17 cfm navac pump and is so ludicrously oversized that I think they showed it as a joke... ). Basically though for the amount of micron rise to fail that test is so small you’d never see it with gauges like that... also he has to charge that unit by weight, him using that spray can is just guessing...
Yeah, I felt most of the vids I watched wouldn't apply to my exact situation or be perfect, but they helped give me a general idea and motivated me to figure it out. But yeah, I liked that first vid the most.
Not a bad way to start. Sealed system repair is easy to screw up, but if you take your time and practice I think you might be okay honestly... a lot of the people who post about fixing fridges on here have no idea what it’s gonna actually take.. you at least did some research, and your not doing it to your everyday fridge.. although their are less touchy fridges out there that can be fixed... if you can change the compressor in an lg and get it dried out and charged then your gonna do fine with almost any other design in my opinion...

For what it’s worth theirs a lot of weird specialty knowledge for these specific units, and a lot of techs who halfass it and get callbacks, and then bitch about lg as a brand being inferior when in reality if you follow better service practices you won’t have nearly as many issues, and so I’m picky about what I see in some of the online videos. Works been slow lately and I still changed out 5 of these compressors in the last 3 weeks some with leaks some without, and have a no cool lg scheduled for tomorrow... I’ve put a lot into gear, usually can do one of these in about 2 hours total, and my callback rate on them is less than 1 in the last 50 fixed over a 1 year period... turning these particular repairs into reliable profit instead of potential headach has been a pet project of mine for the last couple of years..
Can I braze copper with butane?
Not sure, I’ve never tried, I’ve always used oxy acetylene, and I know a few guys who use mapp or use acetylene only with a turbotorch

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im new to this /diy/ lifestyle
rate my ashtray
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wrong. The difference between addiction and dependence is the total loss of control over the usage, even when you suffer negative effects.
>t. Jew mental health faggot with no willpower.
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ruined a perfectly good pipe/10
he’s prob the most competent negro you’ve ever met

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Hey fellas my tv seems to have randomly broken whilst I was watching it last night, turning this weird blue hue with streaks running down. I've followed Sonys online troubleshoot just in case but it's clearly a hardware issue. Have any of you experienced such an issue? How can I fix it lads? Appreciate any help you can offer, will provide more pics if needed. Thanks!

>Model: Sony KDL - 40EX523
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
The screen ribbon's are torn, so you'll need to reconnect the ribbons. You can get a ribbon connector to reconnect the ribbons using a ribbon connector cable. Or, you could hire a ribbon connector controller to reconnect your ribbons by using a ribbon connector cable. There's an art to ribbon connector connector's connecting unconnected ribbons.
I'd advise he contracts a certified ribbon connecting consultant. Ribbon connecting controllers aren't worth the cash.
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Thanks for the replies. I've had a look round the back and I don't see any tears to the ribbons. The actually connections look okay too. I tried fiddling with the ribbon slightly whilst the TV was on to see if it impacted the image. It only flickered slightly with no reduction in the blue.
Try disconnect and connect them again.
tried, no difference unfortunately

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Hello world.
Any ideas how to fix this?
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if anything needs 'fixing' it's op for abandoning the thread
>First take that desk outside.
Put on curb with 'Free' sign.
throw it in the trash and buy something made of actual real solid wood
Just get a piece of outside corner trim at a big box store. Cut to fit, glue it on, stain to match.
"Polishing a Turd" Best answer ever! I hate that fake wood shit. My daughters boyfriend spent months making a dresser out of the junk. I guess he built himself a pile of shit.

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I still suck at bending EMT conduit after being an electrician for 7 years or so, it doesn't help that I'm dyslexic as well. Wat do?
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Thank you. I appreciate the info.
Good pipe bending is a good skill. Finding paths that don't need so many bends is a better skill. I saw a short timer weave so many poorly planned but perfectly bent three point saddles on a ceiling that it looked like a waffle cut fry. Fucker got his check before we had to pull that fucking wire. We even had strut and strut straps, he just didn't use them. He was more interested in showcasing his mad bending skills. It was beneath him to use boring but practical kick 90's. If he's working right now, it's probably with MC. Shame, his saddles were actually pretty good.
>If he's working right now, it's probably with MC. Shame, his saddles were actually pretty good.
>Good pipe bending is a good skill. Finding paths that don't need so many bends is a better skill.
This is hands down the absolutely most valuable information in the thread. I was always great at bending EMT, and really took pride in some of the tricky paths I'd maneuver some bent conduit through. Come wire pulling time, I was always kicking myself for showing off.
Considering everyone else around me was absolutely incapable of even making a box offset on an otherwise straight length of conduit without kinking it, I was always tasked with bending and running it without oversight to reel in my rooky creativity.
Fuck the system


Moved into a new place and the AC vent in my room rattles/vibrates loudly. If I place my finger on the fins (the part behind the grill) it stops. Is there anything recommended I could shove in there to stop it? Preferably something that wouldn't hinder the flow of air.
I'm trying to avoid calling maintenance, but if a new vent would solve it I'll do that.
11 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Just remove it. As long as you don't care about the way it looks, the vent grille isn't actually needed.
When I used to install these I'd just shove some aluminum tape on the corner of the rattling part and the side to make it stop.
Have you checked to see that the offices that killed chancellor gorkon didn't stuff their boots or uniforms in the vent?
remove grille, on one side there is a linkage that connects the front lever and moves the fins in unison. you can try to push light cotton/old tee shirt material, read narrow strips, between the linkage bar and the connection points at fins. just something to apply slight pressure to fin ends. if enough pivot shaft out end without linkage may be possible to loop a rubber band around the shafts. maybe also melt candle wax on shaft ends where sticking thru, will break free to adjustment lever though take up slop in holes in spacing flange. good luck anon.
That is a cheap crap diffuser with too much air flowing through it. Buy a well made commercial one to replace it or just take it off the wall. A new cheap replacement will do nothing.

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Can someone write a g code for this? to help understand
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
draw it in fusion (free) then slice it in cura (free) and inspect the gcode
Edit :
N04 G1 , not G01
G00 X0.0Y0.0Z-10.0
Here you go, test that out first on your machine to make sure it's working, then I'll give you the rest.

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What's your favorite work boot, I just got a pair of these, what u guys think? Very popular on the jobsite (I'm a union sparky apprentice) I see other trades with them 2
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Don't have a choice if you're dealing with foot operated controls
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been really enjoying these timb pro titans

not really too expensive but quite comfy and durable
I've been looking into those for winter. What kind of work do you do? I'm a field mechanic for heavy equipment. so I need something that'll stand up to oil and diesel.
Emma is best brand, Dutch work shoes. Although a lot of farmers still unironically wear wooden shoes
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NL? because that's only good boot that's available in shops.
Have 70416L,

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