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File: tabletop.jpg (1.17 MB, 2277x2011)
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Okay I figure there isn't an existing thread I'd be better posting this in. Just stripped the polyurethane down off this Japanese Oak tabletop and sanded it to a smooth 800 grit. Probably overkill and might need to sand it back to something coarser, but at least it feels nice. So I'm wanting to lay down a new finish on it and I'm getting conflicting information online; some recommend tung oil, others recommend polyurethane. I was wanting a durable finish and I assume tung oil wouldn't provide the kind of hard surface layer that you get from PU, but it was highly recommended by the guy at the hardware store as he used it on his table.

Can post more pictures of the tabletop if you want to have a good look, but it is a little pock-marked from decades of use. The original tabletop was Kauri, but it was real marked up since it's a soft wood and was removed perhaps 60 years ago. Damn photo better not be sideways.

TL;DR: what finish do I use on my japanese oak tabletop? I don't live in the states so some of your brands might not be available, but general recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
Poly would be better, especially if your putting a coffee mug or a cold drink. Tung oil won't offer the ease of mind that poly would and poly will still show the wood off without it looking like plastic (like a laq would)
Sounds reasonable. I've heard of putting oil down to make the wood shine, and covering it with an oil-based polyurethane, ever come across that?

Wood vs fiberglass. What's best for which applications?
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It's called a regulator. That broom at the front and the plows are for moving the ballast.

I guess yours is just for snow. We don't use anything like that in the US.
Heavy snow in the west is cleared with a rotary snow plow.

Lighter snows are cleared with a wedge plow. Picture related.

They are also used out east for 'heavy snow'. IE 'lil bitch' snow. If you can see the top of a semi truck above the snow but you still think its a lot of snow, its 'lil bitch' snow. When you can't even see the tops of the trailers anymore, then it's really snowing.
I'm familiar with N. American railroads, amigo. That little contraption he posted is what there is no equivalent of.
It is a rail sweeper mounted to the front of a ballast regulator. Here is a USA version:
fiberglass is pretty much always better. biggest downside is that they often can't be replaced

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>calls himself a carpenter
>doesn't even own a corner clamr that holds joints at 90 angel
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>joints at 90 degree angel
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It's for picture framing you silly nogs
>90 angel

thinks he's the smart one...
My sides are orbiting the moon, anon.

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Am I fucked?
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>The minus screwdriver
>meme remover
Quite literally the worst suggestion one can give for a stuck screw. Not only will the screw still be stuck, OP will be out of the money to buy that useless piece of shit
Nah, stupid people just decided they were a miracle tool and felt ripped off when they did not work. They are one of few options for that screw at the bottom of a hole, saved my ass a few times now.
yeah, as opposed to a positive( + ) screwdriver. are you retarded?
They call them plus and minus in japan.

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I want to make a small setup that would mimic the rising of the sun at a time that I choose. How would /diy/ build it? This is my guess at the basics of it but I don't quite have a parts list assembled sooo... help me with a shopping list? This would all be from a plug source. Im no electrician. I can do simple wiring but thats about it. Thoughts?
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TRIAC dimmer driven by a slow ramp oscillator is the first thing that comes to mind. You could use a simple 555 timer for the oscillator but if you're looking to mimic variations with seasons you're gonna need a microcontroller. I can't say how well this effect will realistically mimic a sunrise, probably not very well, but it should at least create a gradual ramp in light output which should at least mimic the effect in the most basic sense.

More realism is more an issue of optics than electronics and for that you'd probably want an array of lights and you'd want to match the color spectrum close to that of the sun plus compensate for how the atmosphere will distort that as the angle of the sun changes. That's a massive rabbit hole though and would make this project extremely complex.
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not bad. course if only this had the proper bulbs in it. maybe I could rewire it. And sorry m8 I never come on here, so- yeah. I am dead set though. Sunrise simulation might be good keywords in retrospect though.

smart- but doesn't tackle the spectrum issue.

Do you think I could get a cheap manual dimmer switch and attach it to a dimmable daylight bulb and then have a timer unit slowly manually move the slider? my guess is that it'd be too weak, but I could probably remove a spring in the slider for instance.

gonna look into this
this would require a reset daily if I didnt mod it too but this might be the most simple.

and you're probably right on the array of bulbs for realism, but yeah I just wanna go basic for the time being. I've bought some "daylight " bulbs in the past and they're nice for lighting in general so it'll prolly do for now til I get a little more informed and build something really nice.

Online you can find the rgb
and intensity values for empty sky. Then also the values for the sun (color temp and intensity) at morning, noon, and evening.

Then use rgb LEDs, lots of them. And a power supply and microcontroller.
This is similar to what I did in a way.

In the living room I have recessed and hidden ambient lighting. I have three strips of it. Daylight, Warm, and Ultra Warm.

Each of them has their own controller which takes in a 10 bit signal for PWM. And there's an Arduino brainbox. As the evening progresses it will transition from the Daylight, to the Warm, to the Ultra Warm and then slowly dim that UW to 10%.

Having the interior light mimmic whats going on outside has definitely helped improve my sleep pattern.

The part that impressed us most was the nightly bedtime struggle sort of dissapeared.

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Best options for a /diy/ time capsule? I want to put in some photographs, a newspaper, USB flash drive. To be opened in 50 years time but ideally I'd like it to last as long as possible. I'm going to bury it 500 feet deep. What sort of materials should I make it out of?
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>I'm going to bury it 500 feet deep.

how new r u
> I'm going to bury it 500 feet deep
however, plastic takes about 1000 years to degrade. use something made of hard plastic. seal it with silicon i guess. put it inside some plastic bag and seal that as well as second layer of protection
I didn't bother reading after "50 years".
>I want to put in some photographs, a newspaper, USB flash drive. To be opened in 50 years time but ideally I'd like it to last as long as possible.
Ya good luck with that. Maybe consider lamination or paper mde for this. As for ssd no fucking way. Not even a burnt DVD will last that long. Go back to school kid.

>I'm going to bury it 500 feet deep.
That's what I did with your mom last night.
>50 years

i've never created a sewing pattern before but im trying to create a cosplay of ghiaccio from jjba. i made this on illustrator and can have it printed in actual size on paper at my job. I would like some feedback on if this looks usable or not.
Pattern making for clothing has some little idiosyncrasies that you need to learn for well fitting articles.

Go into the fabric stores and browse the catalogue. Find something similar in general fit and function as what you want to make.

Don't cut up the pattern you bought. Trace that onto vellum or newspaper, or something else and cut that out. That way you can re-use the pattern over and over for multiple sizes if you make something for someone else.

Pay attention to where the darts are, and where things are taken in. Getting familiar with these will make creating your own patterns easier.

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I've had a bunch of these drill bits for a long time the only ever use the light bronze colored ones. What are the other 3 types for?
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>The namefag claims to namefag solely so he can grant people with his almighty "helpful" advice
>literally every post he makes is him yelling at people about how his opinion is better b/c "HURRR I WEEELD" when he clearly doesn't.

This is more telling I think.
>not sure what kind of zipcuts youre used to but the ones i use make a cleaner cut than a bandsaw
then you havent used a real bandsaw
angle grinder has a wider kerf and leaves a HAZ bandsaw is better for anything that can be done with a bandsaw or a portaband
Lay a proper gravel bed, large to small. Vibrate that shit down real tight, lay your pavers, use very fine limestone gravel as a 'grout' or 'mortar' in the spaces in between your pavers.
Where can I buy a bunch of bed-sized (any size will do) sheets inexpensively? The print doesn't matter, but just some plain white sheets would be preferable. But I'm willing to take anything. I've looked at Goodwill and other thrift stores and as you can imagine that stuff doesn't seem to ever stick around for long. They never have anything.
You definitely can power wash the moss off but depending on how old and brittle it is you might blast off pieces of your render too. You can always patch those up though.

That video is a great example of what I was talking about flicking it on by hand. You can also see how wet his mix is, that's how you want it.

Give it a go mate, can't hurt to try. Good luck!

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How do I remove this goddamned castle nut? I've tried using a Dremel, using some nut splitters and I've also cursed at it. The bolt spins only enough to move it's position but it won't go up nor will it tighten. I am doing this in an apartment parking lot because I'm too damn poor to own a house and garage and I have basic tools for oil changes and a set of ratchets from Stanley. I want to remove the damned nut off but I don't wanna be evicted for using torches or making to much noise. Please help I've been trying now for what feels like a month trying to remove it but it won't come off like a damned parasite.
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>semen was the clearly the lubricant required

Is there any application where semen doesn't work?
>shit in the toilet
>right tool
fuck off boomer. hurry up and die.
Reverse thread on that saw arbor?
Do they have hack-saws where you live?

Grinder with a 6" cut off wheel is the correct answer, but you ruled that out on account of noise. Elbow grease and a saw will get you there too.

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I've been given a camper by a relative who's encouraged me to renovate it. I build furniture, so I'm not a stranger to diy stuff at all but I've never worked much with trailers. It's already been gutted and the walls are practically falling off but the trailer frame itself is in good shape, just slightly rusted. Where's a good place to start with it? I'm pretty sure I can build up the walls once I get the wood frame onto the metal but I guess I dont' know how to get started or even what to google.
pls help
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I'm attempting to acid wash a real patina on it using cleaning vinegar and a lot of table salt. Filled the sink with sawdust to hold the vinegar on the metal so it doesn't all run to the bottom and dry out on top leaving an uneven finish. Looks like it's starting to work already but I'm gonna let it sit for another hour before I dump it and check the progress.
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Here's a cabinet base that will hold up one side of my desk, it'll have two drawers in it that I'm reusing from the old dinette benches that were demo'd. Put that together yesterday, just needs one more finish coat of paint.
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And I put this cabinet base together today, need to wait for the glue to dry and then I'll sand it down and get all the fuzz off of it. My table saw blade is getting pretty worn out and needs to be changed, it's leaving a feathery edge on a lot of the cuts. This will have a formica top on it and is gonna be our coffee area / minibar. Tomorrow I'll make an upper cabinet to match it and probably start cutting plywood out for the countertops.
Well that kinda worked, looks like it needs some oxygen to make a patina and the sawdust actually inhibited it. Oh well, I'll leave it like this overnight and see how it looks tomorrow morning.
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Forgot pic

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So how bad of an idea is it for someone with zero concrete experience to do a decent sized concrete pad by (mostly) themselves?
>To build a shop on top of
>Don't have the money to hire a crew to do it
>Live in deep South so freezing is not a huge concern

From what I'm reading the biggest place I'm likely to fuck this up is preparing the substrate and then getting a shitty finish on it. The mix should be right because I'd get mixer trucks to deliver...What all am I missing?
31 replies omitted. Click here to view.
A smart person knows when to inlist help.

Ever see a concrete crew with just 1 man.

Lots of solo Carpenters and welders and electricians, but no one man band concrete guys.

Don't do it op
Also I recommend drilling your anchors instead of casting. It's way faster.
get some italians.
they are concrete gods.
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> Senor Dionico Rodriguez, a sculptor and artist of Mexico City, was responsible for all the details of each piece of concrete work made to represent wood, iron or stone, as well as the designing of the foot bridges and rustic seats.

be thankful

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Found this fox skull in a partially dried up pond years ago while I was fishing for bass. The poor thing was stuck under a tree.
I cleaned organic material off it and sprayed a layer of transparent. Unfortunately many teeth are missing. I'm looking for ideas to make it into a nice decorative object without irreversibly destroying it.
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you're doing the right thing anon - it's too cool to ruin and the fact that you salvaged it from the mud makes it even cooler
you might get some mounting ideas from websites that sell skulls & bones & stuff
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Yes I never meant to vandalize it, I was thinking about some way to give it the importance it deserves.
The curious thing about its story, I think the fox was crushed to death by the falling tree. Either that or it tried to crawl under it and got stuck, and died from starvation.
poor foxxo
I also have some ded animals skulls OP
A dog I found, a complete owl and a rat.
Best way to appreciate It's symbolic value, and biological oddness, with honor and reapect, It's keeping ir raw like you have it.
Encase it in a small cristal box, with a small plaque.
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Put it on a round wooden base like this with an engraved brass plaque.

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Are they worth it? Should I just keep doing the safety squint behind my cheap prescription sunglasses? Will they even help me if some retard bumps into me while I'm doing sketchy power tool stuff and I kick up some shrapnel? Would I get more pussy with a pirate eye patch anyway?
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I hate it when things come in my eye.
OP here:
I do have a pair of those goofy over-the-glasses ones that I break out when I'm using an angle grinder and stuff like that but they don't stay on good if I'm not standing still and upright. I can get my job to partially pay a pair but I'm not sure where to order from. Where do you guys who have em get yours?
please help keep the jizz out my peepers
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Near sighted horizontal mill operator reporting in.

They might be a little pricy, but they are 100% worth it. I love not having to squint or worry about catching hot chips in my eyes.
I'm about to get eyeglasses. Do they make impact resistant lenses that also do the transition shade thing and are antifog
Can anyone recommend a website that sells prescription safety glasses

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First time poster looking for some advice. I want to make a rowing bicycle.
I was inspired by this german engineers attempt www.rowcycle.de, but it's
not for sale yet and they say it will be priced in the mid 4-digits -
way outside of my budget. This american version rowbike.com looks way less
complicated but also not very interesting.
I plan to make it mostly out of recycled bits to save on cost. I've got
some understanding of mechanics but no real engineering experience.
I've got basic tools and can get used bicycles for next to nothing.
Looking for ideas and technical help to make a rowing bicycle.
Some of the things I expect to be difficult are:

1) Converting pulling motion into rotational motion.
2) Having the pulling handle return to starting point without creating too
much resistance that doesn't convert to rotational motion.
3) Decoupling wheel motion from pulling device when not actively pulling

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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>2) Having the pulling handle return to starting point without creating too
much resistance that doesn't convert to rotational motion.
Why not use a torsion spring? They're compact and do exactly what you want.
>3) Decoupling wheel motion from pulling device when not actively pulling
Use a sprag bearing. They are available cheaply online.

>To avoid the need for a differential, i think it's best to have the driving
force on the single wheel end. What are advantages/disadvantages to having
the propulsion wheel in the front vs back?
I'd say you're right about avoiding the differential by using a single drive wheel. In my opinion you should use a rear wheel drive set up, front wheel steering, and brakes that are either rear only or heavily biased to the rear. Also, the brakes should be applied by a hand lever positioned next to your dominant hand. Lastly, regarding your steering system, you would be best served by a foot pedal operated system. My first thought is that you should have a pedal arrangement such that you can steer with either foot while bracing with the other.
Row back for reverse
This is a terrible personal vehicle.
I'm going to suggest something you may not like, but it's the best use for it.
Make it a two person vehicle.
One powers up the beast, the other steers.
Alternatively, no steering and no reverse.
Climb uphill with the power of the upper body
It is a terrible personal vehicle but it is a good way to get some miles in if you can travel around in it (you wouldn't be able to most places). The main issue is that you're so low down and in most places you'd be expected to ride that thing on a road with automobiles, so scary shit and also fun inhaling exhaust fumes. Not impossible but not great.

The steering is not the problem really, people doing sculls steer with a foot mechanism in the boat so it's a bit of practice in a way, easy enough to set something up. Also while rowing is more upperbody than cycling, it's still very leg dominated.


As a project to make things more beautiful I have decided to breed local butterflies.

The reason for this is yesterday while I was planting strawberries, a large peacock butterfly came and landed on the patch and sat with me for a good 30 minutes, only to move to a window and sit for most of the afternoon.

It was a very spiritual experience and prompted me to firstly discover it's type, which I have not had the pleasure of seeing before - but also the desire to breed them for release.

The larvae are relatively cheap and these particular butterflies thrive on stinging nettles. Some varieties of the exotic prefer rotten fruit and citrus - however these will bring havok to the locality so can't be released.

A few monarchs have found there way across the ocean but we don't produce milkweed here.
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this is not a good thread
Thats an animal we can do without
You need white people for welfare, you'll die without them.
take it easy, he was obviously making a dumb joke and you should expect much worse things from 4chan
Also see: >>>/out/1496297 & >>>/an/2994618

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