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Hello hello, what are these type of screws/rods called?
Someone on /g/ helped me quite a lot by saying these are ball screws, but if I go on google images I just find similar rods with way too narrow "spacing" and a way too big of a diameter. So I am either not looking hard enough or they have a name on ther own. Could someone point me to what these are called? (Id guess the diameter is about 1cm/0.5inches).
Pic source:
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I have dealt with these guys before. Even if they are out of your price range, have a look at their product selection. It will give you an idea of the parameters that are possible for a given technology.

Thank you (both?) very very much. Is this just so uncommon to use or why is it so hard to find stuff like that? Closest I came with searching for "high speed ball screw", I assume long pitch is maybe not used that often as often, but is there a reason why this isnt more popular (and THAT expensive)?
It seems like a pretty good syntem, fast but precise.
I want slim long pitches, but its impossible to find those at an affordable price or even finding them in the firnt place.
For the second time, that's a lead screw, you find the same set up in CD/DVD/BD players. There is nothing that looks like a ball nut, but there is something that looks like a nylon nut that again is common in CD/DVD/BD players. If you find the right supplier you can pick these things up for pennies.
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with a very steep pitch leadscrew, the convention is to use multiple start instead of single start. they do the same job and carry more load for only a small increase in friction.
usefully, pitch=diameter for a 4-start, so an 8mm leadscrew moves the nut 8mm per revolution.
thank you

Supp /diy/, i’ve bought rare 90s solid state guitar amp for dirt cheap and it’s broken. Somehow DC is running trough speaker and all i hear is hum (i can hear guitar too, but only after putting volume pot to 10). Which part of amp can be probably faulty? What parts need to be checked at first? Amp is Rath-Amp Retro 80.
May be a shorted electrolytic capacitor on the final amplifier stage.

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How do you succesfully pick a lock?
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>street bristle
What the fuck is that?
The best thing for making lock picks, I've been making them forever, I've tried everything, sweeper bristles are the most durable and best sized
Its not even hard. Fucking look it up you lazy theiving nigger. You would get a much better tutorial from a video on YouTube than any amount of information that could be posted here.
Look up bump keys and by one that includes a thick rubber washer
become black, when your black enough itll just magically open

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Hey guys, Im looking into start trying to make jewelry as a hobby, probably just gifts and other stuff to start off. More specifically Im wanting to try my hand at turning rings. Considering Im a complete amateur I plan to start with premade ring blanks, adding wood or inlay to them. Keeping that in mind what is the cheapest lathe I can get away with using for just wood? The ring blanks Ill be using are pre sized, pre comfort fitted, and pre channeled in the case of inlay bands. So in essence all I need is a lathe that can turn a ring mandrel for finish sanding and polishing, no metal cutting will be done.

Obviously theres the harbor freight mini lathe (pic related) but its $650 which is about $500 more than I can spend right now. Amazon has a few sub $200 lathes with seemingly hit or miss reviews, am I wrong in assuming I can get away with a cheap lathe considering all it will do is cut wood in the roughest of uses? Or should I just fuck off and try using my drill press with a ring mandrel? Incase it helps Im more than capable of putting something together with chinese instructions, done a few 3D printers, and Im comfortable soldering.
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You're the one that took time out of your day to click on a thread you know nothing about and talk shit. Who's the troll here again?
You have no clue about jewelery making, lathes and superconductors apparently. But you got 2 yous out of me, so not all is lost. All you need to propose to your boyfriend with a crappy wood inlay prefab ring is a file and some sheets of sanding paper and glue.
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Most of those lathes and the ones on ebay are all the same, just the prices are different. I purchased one from ebay for $468.99 (shipped). 7"x14" It arrived in a packing crate in one piece. I recommend watching some youtube videos about the problems and pitfalls of an ebay lathe.

That being said (on mine) I made a part for an old radio and it worked pretty well. I have also used it to cut thin walled steel pipe (I needed it to be almost perfectly straight) and it worked fine for that. Just realize these things are mean for nothing harder than mild steel and you need to work slowly and have patients when cutting steel with them. They are better suited for aluminum, and softer metals, and would work great for making jewelry.
also they don't come with any cutting tools are other accessories.
At this point I'm willing to bet I know more than you.
>insert gat joke here because apparently were in 4th grade
I've been looking at a mini lathe from harbor freight. Probably not the best, and it's only made for wood or copper, soft metals like you said. It comes with a warranty so even if it's not the best I can go through 17 of them. Itll be fun.

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Union ironworker here, In Poulsbo, WA there is a casino with a multi-level parking structure. Each level sits on two inch ledges connected to vertical walls that WERE NOT REINFORCED as per the engineers design (due to lack of funds/materials). Not only this but the walls were improperly seated and shifted roughly 6-10 degrees under load, you can look from the base up the wall and see how the structure is barely standing. For all /diy/'s in WA stay away from that casino, it's basically a death trap.

I can't be the only one with these kind of stories from work, the companies in the PNW don't seem to give two shits about safety of buildings but just that they can get them out in time.

Feel free to post any trade related stories about specific jobs or people you have worked with.
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I don't even think it's illegal for them to do so, I'm only an ironworker but I'm fairly sure that buildings on reservation land don't require the same building codes as any other building on USA land.
yeah that's pure shit. would report
It's not just about breaking the letter of the law, it's about having a building condemned so people don't die when that shit collapses.
well enough known company had a structural engineer fail to keep up with his license. Tons of buildings had roofs collapse because they werent built to hold the snow loads, which is how everyone found out about the license.. I dont think anyone died though. They basically got fucked. I know they had to go back through a ton of buildings and redo a bunch of trusses and joists, add columns ect. to the bad ones, millions and millions to fix it all, and on public schools too.
myeh. it'll hold

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I’ve been in some old houses here (old in US terms so like 60-100 years) with some crazy terrible fuse boxes.. but that’s usually because of decades of diy electric repairs... I do appliance repair.. had a dryer a while back that wasn’t getting 220.. asked the customer where the breaker box was because I was curious... this is what they had.. house looked like someone threw three houses together slowly over the last 50 years...
In the states it depends on where you are... generally speaking the southern half uses heat pumps with emergency electric heat.. in the north you get gas and sometimes oil in the country.. getting more geothermal but that generally uses a heat pump anyway
It was a place I was looking at renting. This was newly done, I assume they'd got someone dodgy as hell in and just expanded everything onto already existing circuits as they'd clearly converted the basement and attic recently. I think regs wise you can smoosh all the lighting and plugs onto a breaker each, but the guidelines will normally say you want more depending on floor area, the obvious problem was them running a water heater and an electric stove, whatever configuration you have you need more than 3 breakers for that. The letting agent/realtor (?) showing me around got very shirty with me, but that was more me pointing out the single glazing that was everywhere except the attic conversion. They ended up demanding several months rent in advance and insisting I earnt enough that buying the damn house would have been much cheaper. Very weird, I think it may have been their house.

On another viewing: nice letting agent, but somebody had bodged some gas piping in the basement (this is beyond rare, gas regs are for obvious reasons v strict) and one of the bodged pipes had completely come loose. Couldn't smell any gas so triple checked I was really seeing what I was seeing, but then just left immediately and told the guy the problem.

My aunt somehow still manages to have a ridiculously old real fuse-wire fuse box herself, I have never seen another one anywhere else. I like houses that have been built up over time generally though, so long as shit gets sorted out.
I don't know why but I think these are not every popular in the US.
for the same reason very few products are actually international.
Europe only seems international because you share a border and there are no tariffs. No different from the continental US from a trade perspective.
When was the last time you saw an imported American-made product in a European store?
In America, the only widespread imported European products are cheese, pasta, canned fish, and a limited set of cars.

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/diy/ business thread
I have $20,000 individually and 60-80k collectively with 2 partners. They probably aren't as committed until the 20k starts showing returns.

How hard is it to start a brick and mortar business? It would cater to other businesses so location doesn't matter, no sales to consumers, only businesses.

Is my biggest hurdle still location/building costs? I own half my inventory already, valued at roughly 5k, and can make a profit of about 50-75% easily with my skillset.
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>buy anon, that ends in 2011, surely things have improved since then!
nope desu
i don't understand what this means. plz explain.
Fed printed money to prop up housing and equities.
The way they printed the money wasn't by giving out notes though, they bought worthless assets from banks and hedge funds at market prices.
This influx of capital combined with near-zero interest rates allowed said institutions to keep servicing their own denbts and paying staff so they didn't go bankrupt, but really this hasn't fixed anything and as the fed starts liquidating their newly acquired assets and raising rates back up from nothing, the economy will crash again.
I started a videography service that works with a leather shop, heres a little bit of our work

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I'm planning to craft myself some stylish leather pants, but don't have any experience with leather. Please help.
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OP here, meant to ask earlier but how hard is semen to remove from leather after it dries?
Fuck you leather man
Never let a drop go to waste, lick it up before it dries
You're lookin for /lgbt/, buddy.
I work with a Leather Shop you can probably comment on their video, and get some help.

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I've recently installed myself a cheap non-diy mini split air conditioner, and it started to stink.
I removed air filters, and I saw nothing, it was clean...
How do I clean evaporator coils and fan? I can't get special cleaning foam in my shithole.
Also, how hot does "evaporator" get in heating mode?
how you clean it is simple. brushes, pipe cleaners, a rag, compressed air, whatever gets dust/grim off of anything else. if it's stuck on there, use a acid free cleaner.

second, you can just buy foaming evap coil spray on amazon. though not sure how that'll work on a miniplit, I assume there's some sort of drain pan for it for the foam rinse to drain into but I don't deal with/work on those things.

third, the evaporator should get as hot as cold as your area it is in, is. that may sound confusing, but basically if your room is 60, you want it 70, it will probably be 80-90. though if it's charge is off or the fan is too dusted up to move air right, it could be running inefficiently
>how you clean it is simple. brushes, pipe cleaners, a rag, compressed air, whatever gets dust/grim off of anything else. if it's stuck on there, use a acid free cleaner.
There is no dust or dirt. Can it be just cheap plastic degassing?
>third, the evaporator should get as hot as cold as your area it is in, is. that may sound confusing, but basically if your room is 60, you want it 70, it will probably be 80-90. though if it's charge is off or the fan is too dusted up to move air right, it could be running inefficiently
Well, system is definitely slightly low on charge, since I didn't use a vacuum pump, and I used third-world purging method (open schrader, open one valve slighly, wait 5 seconds, and pretend you didn't release refrigerant to atmosphere).
But it cools good (more than one room, which is cool for 9000 BTUs), heats even better... I wonder if internal radiator gets above 70°C, since this might kill any bacteria that makes this smell. Refrigerant lines are pretty hot in heating mode.
>Can it be just cheap plastic degassing?
I wouldn't use that. if it's acid free it might be safe, but no idea what it contains and if it won't fuck something up
>since I didn't use a vacuum pump
it's charge is most likely utterly fucked. gg no re

>killing bacteria

lmao at third worlders
>it's charge is most likely utterly fucked. gg no re
It is on-off model without any smarts like electronic expansion valve or pressure sensors, just basic compressor, 4-way valve and capillary tube. It should work without problem, if there are no leaks.
If I will notice snow on valves, I'd call an HVAC specialist.
Anyway, proper installation would cost nearly as much, as air con itself, which is not cool .
>> 70°C
>>killing bacteria
>lmao at third worlders
Well, turning heat on in +25°C got rid of smell... At least for a now.
Technically, 70°C would be enough to kill mold. I don't know about other shit, they probably need 100°C or more.

You can use the display like on a dollar store calculator to display text.
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Who gives a shit about this esoteric ass alphabet. Come back when you make a nixie tube with 26 cathodes corresponding to different English letters. That's the kinda shit I want.
>Come back when you make a nixie tube with 26 cathodes corresponding to different English letters. That's the kinda shit I want.

what did you major in, victorian caligraphy?
I wish I knew what drugs the Victorians were on but I know damn well it was stiff upper lips and strong tea.
>I wish I knew what drugs the Victorians were on
Opium, cocaine...
You can put a 7 segment display in a nixie tube you dingus

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How do I find out what size tool holder this is?
>30INT, 40INT, BT40 etc?

It comes from a massive 50+ year old manual milling machine.

I cannot find any documentation online about tool holder sizes.

Posting more images below.
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Thank you for your help everyone. I ordered an INT 40 taper, and had to buy an M16 rod to make a metric drawbar.

It's my dad's and has been sat unused in a shed for 20 years. I've been using a lathe to cut with the holesaw, and it's been a struggle as I need to align using packing peices in the vice, as it's cutting in a unfriendly axis.

Nice machine. Yup NMTB 40 is common for smallish manual mills of that era. Much better than R8. I have the same size on my Bridgeport CNC Series 1. I have found the cheepest place to buy endmill holders is on ebay. Also you need to get a Machinist Handbook.
I try to get all my stuff in iso40 with changeable pullstuds so when i upgrade my mill (you can find quite large machines with higher speed spindle in 40 taper) i can always keep all the tooling. For me it's the perfect homeshop taper. Not too small, not too big and available for cheap nearly everywhere.

Anyone here ever built their own pool? I'm looking to build a thin long rectangular one that I can swim laps on. I was thinking about building the frame out of a bunch of wooden pallets I have laying around and then layering the inside with waterproof tarp. I don't know shit about how water pressure works though so I'm worried the whole thing will just explode when I fill it.
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come over to my house and i will suck your dick
The trick is to reinforce the pallets with imitation crab meat
Fucking manlets. Just buy a kiddie pool then
bury it so the pressure will cancel
underground shipping container pool bunker
I think the rule is one layer of cement for every two layers of imitation crab meat.

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How deep do I need to dig for a post hole?
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What am I looking at- is that your mom's asshole with a dildo in it?
calculate maximum mommetum at the top, then the force depends on the density of the soil and the diameter or the post

without equations... half the pos'st length deep seems too much. a quater maybe?

my engineering degree is useless
>my engineering degree is useless
I see.
Minimal 500ft hole anon. No more than 2ft wide
Depends on the length of the shovel

I work in Lumber/Building Materials. Ask me anything.
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In addition. If you're working with retards - you're not better than them - you're one of them.
>Of course I'm an engineering student now
Hooo boy. Enjoy being a different kind of bitch.
This is true, I'm just in it because I can do contract work.
My idea is I can make triple what I make as a carpenter 6 months out of the year, buy real estate and fix it myself. I already did it with one house but I'd like to do it at a faster pace. I know a lot of contractors too so I should be able to keep my head in the game.
Pine, oak, poplar, cedar, maybe fir. Not maple, that I’ve seen.
You’ll probably need to go to a specialty store
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hard-maple-10-board-foot-lumber-pack Or
Usually specialty suppliers sell maple and cherry expensive hard woods. etc.

I want to grow some diamonds in my house, anyone have any resources?
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Hey! Found my 10mm wrench.
Back to /o/ now.
That's where OP came from.
word is, his mom sits on a lot of coal already...
>want to grow some diamonds in my house, anyone have any resources?
Google "microwave methane diamond deposition"
If you want any usable quantity of diamond, you are either going to need to scale up the process (meaning more magnetrons depositing over a larger surface) or be continuously growing them for a few decades/centuries. Keep in mind the process is thermodynamically limited, so you can't rush it.
If I remember correctly, my head math said that a 1 inch boule would take something like four decades.
expensive memes that seek to convert graphite via chemical potential and equilibrium. Thermodynamics has zero bearing on kinetics.

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