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File: P5290288.jpg (105 KB, 1600x1200)
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Hey /diy/ how can I make a Classroom/University Tier Blackboard/Chalkboard? What materials do I need? How much would it roughly cost? I want to some how find some kind of sheet that's made out of porcelain or some smooth slate. I don't want to use chalkboard paint on a wall because I would rather have a mobile board. I think 5/6 feet by 3 feet should be good but I could wrong.
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High quality blackboards are either slate or enameled porcelain. You're probably better off watching estate sales or auctions and buying an old one a school is discarding, because making one from scratch can be expensive. Or you could cover a sheet of plywood in chalkboard paint and get something passable.
With chalk you can see it running out and avoid the shitty small pieces. With dry erase markers you're stuck with getting a shitty dried out marker and not knowing it until you go to use it.
Nothing beats those old slate ones. Silky smooth! You need a quality chalk too. I was tempted to try to take home an old board that was being thrown out, but it was just too heavy.
projecting much?

Mine dropped them two decades ago. We still had a few old classrooms with traditional blackboards but about 8 years ago the university went and replaced them all.

I've only worked at big universities, so we used whatever facilities gave us. If we needed a different classroom, we filed a requisition. So I've no idea where facilities gets their stuff. For a very big order, it probably goes to RFP. For little stuff, probably a specialty distributor.

Some universities may be hanging on to legacy boards. I'd be surprised if any are ordering them new except as specialty vanity offerings for senior faculty.

Have you tried googling? A dozen results popped up without any effort.

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This is a lightbulb that passes this much electricity through a tungstine filament. I need to place an insulating resin to block.


I think I will need a 5000 degress celcius thermal-resistent and electricity-resistent ceramic base. Is that right? Can I just use a silicon epoxy?
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I feel like you can, but I'm no expert on the matter. Try it small scale and see what happens. Wear good PPE and try it.

It ain't gonna kill you.
you can just plug that bulb and leave it glowing for as much as you can, temperature of glass will never be close to your 5000, trust me
i experimented with them a year ago, made vaporiser for my herbs
i as can remember glass surface of this halogen bulb was not even reaching 100 celcius
are you having a stroke

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I bought my first house a few months back. It was an old fella living there so it needed completely gutting.

As I was taking off the plaster, I noticed that the inner leaf of the cavity was composed of these brick "pots".

The property is a bungalow and it's pretty wide so it would make a massive difference to have the loft converted. However, these pots are total shite and I'm unsure whether they would be able to support the new joists, dormer, and new live load weight.

Anyone got any advice? Would they be okay or would I need to create new piers to support the weight? Pic related, the pots don't have a vertical section so I've erased it.
OK, so I'll admit that like most people here I don't know shit about whatever thread topic we're having here but I'm pretty sure that from just a picture of a similar brick nobody can give you a reliable answer.
The pic is more-or-less what they are, although the scale might be slightly off. I'm basically asking if anyone has ever worked with these things and knows whether or not they're okay to load weight onto.
Americlap here, we call those "structural clay tile" and there's Century + year old multi-story homes and commercial building built with them.

But it all depend on how the things were put together, if they can support more load.

So without seeing a photo of OP's house, all I can say is Maybe.
Okay, thanks. I guess I'll have to get someone out to look at it.

What is the best way to clean the metal plate of this guitar pedal? I think there’s a bit of rust there
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What if I want to preserve the sticker
Skip the naphtha.
Also, that was written with preserving the sticker in mind. The naphtha improves the BLO coat, but it might damage the sticker a bit, which might be a good trade depending on how much you care about future rust. The "best way" to clean it would be to use soap and Evapo-Rust in a heated ultrasonic cleaner, but that would disintegrate the sticker.
Be sure to use our brand adapter, it has a power plug wired opposite of the usual way just in case you thought of using a commonly available 9v supply instead!
It's wired exactly like 99% of all pedals ever, good job getting angry over that.

I want to build a bookshelf kind of like pic related, except I want the top of the shelf to have hinges so that there is a small compartment for small items to be put into it. Like a secret compartment. Is there nothing to it but careful measuring and getting the materials? It's not going to be fancy like the picture, just a simple square bookshelf with the top slightly larger. The only real question that I have is it necessary to use a drill or would a screw driver be sufficient for the hinges?
You can hand drill the pilot holes and your hand has more torqueueay than a drill. Just don't get Phillips head screws.

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i have a fwd car and rotated my tires incorrectly. is it even worth going back and fixing it. this is how i did it. im a retarded faggot
How long did you drive on it before and after the rotation?
>is it even worth going back and fixing it

Yes you dumb shit.
The logic behind rotating your tires is to keep them wearing evenly. Your front wear faster than your rears will.

>both passenger side tires rotated okay, will wear evenly
>front drivers side tire "rotated" but still up front getting heavier wear
>rear drivers side tire "rotated" but still in the back will less wear

Just swap your front and rear drivers side tire and be done.
i just did it this afternoon.. ill just fix it tomorrow after work

ok ill swap the front and rear. im too dumb to figure it out myself
Some tires are only supposed to be mounted in one direction or they won't have good grip. Check this or post good pictures of your tires.

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what do you guys wear? what kind of watch should i buy for working outside and in my workshop? should i go for some cheap casio?
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dw5600 (OP pic) is like $40-$50 and I believe that's the cheapest one

got a link to preferred model/seller? Particularly with the paratrooper? Tentatively interested but I hear the new ones suck and you should only get a genuine old one, though I don't know myself.
I have a pair that have lasted 2 decades each.
That pic is so comfy.
Thanks, fren.
Anyone have experience with Stuhrling?
I want a cheap decent dress watch and I like their skeleton designs.
You guys are such poorfags. I wear a Patek at all times. If it gets scratched or the case gets marred, I just throw it out and get a new one. Plebs.

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Is pic related an acceptable thing to do?
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All this tells me is your wife handles more dangerous stuff than you do.
"Tradition" is what we call solutions that have worked for so long hat the original problem has been forgotten.
Hazing is meant to prove that you can keep yourself composed in the worst of it, so your team can count on you.
Because he only was seriously questioned by the time he became "white"?
The only time using gloves makes you a bitch is in the gym.

Fucking up your hands for your ego, potentially making you unable to work makes you a moron.
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am I the only person still using mine

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I have a gazebo I'd like to enclose with clear panels like picture related. Just the walls though, no roofing needed. It is basically to keep the wind and bugs out so we can use it for relaxing when the weather is nice. What kind of support to I needs to build? The openings are 8 feet by 8 feet. Will 2x2 limber be enough or should I use 2x4s? What kind of spacing should I use? Thanks.
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dude hes not building a rocket ship, he just wants a place to chill and smoke some bud.
also you can always add more wood later if you feel it needs it, but just go for the 2x6 every four feet as a starting point.
oh also one more important things, I am assuming you want you panels vertical (like most buildings) which is why I said to put your 2x6 horizontal, that really is the easiest way.

but if you want them horizontal (like pic) then youd want a 2X4 vertical every 2 foot.

you should go with your panels vertical though. IMO
>gazebo is made of what?
>gazebo is anchored to what? with what?
Concrete pad with anchor bolts.
>legs are what size?
6x6 inches. 4 total.
>walls will be fixed to what?
6x6 legs and 6x10 inch headers.
>wind load is what?
No idea. I did enclose it with plastic sheeting and it didn't blow over when we had a bad storm, if that helps.
>panels size is?
I want to fill the full 8x8 feet openings on each side.
>stud centers are?
That is part of what I am trying to find out.

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find a panel you like, it should have instructions for distances between fixings required for use as roofing or siding.

shouldn't need more than 2x3 i would say, even that's overkill.

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I'm refinishing a guitar, what color should I paint it? I plan to put an aluminum pick guard on it
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Looks better when assembled.
How did you do all the swirls?
How would I do that style of flake? I am slowly planning a bass build and I am thinking of doing a candy apple color (which I have already figured out how to do) but I am curious about doing stuff with bigger, more glittery flakes in it.
Put down your color coat, mix metal flake into your clear coat and spray it on, do a few coats of plain clear, buff. Think you can get rattle can metal flake nitro these days.
"paint it black"

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Bought property with a detached garage/workshop. Every time it rains the back wall leaks from the runoff. It's a steel roof not sure what to do. Wish it wasn't corrugated.
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Yeah I was thinking replacing the screws. Is the lack of overhang/gutter bad?
There's virtually no overhang of the roof steel to the sidewall.
There's no drip edge.
There's no fascia or eve.
Big giant GAP from roof to sidewall.

What's happening here is that when it rains the water hits the edge of the steel and is rolling back on the underside of the roof panels.

You're "leak" is due to shitty construction, cheap-out.

Here's the fix:
Go across the ENTIRE length of the roof and remove the screws at the EDGE.
Buy FABRAL DRIP EDGE, it's just an "L" shape of metal.
Slip one edge of the drip edge UNDER the roof panels, the other side of the "L" is overlapping the WALL panels.

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you need this shit
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you are a gentleman and a scholar. first correct answer in the thread.
Thank you sir. I thought it was a little lazy with no edge

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/diy/, i plan to build a copy carver from plywood, so i can make wooden inserts for my car using the ugly foliated plastic ones as templates.
I have two questions.
1. Should i take a light router for the arm?
2. How much difference is between cheap construction wood and expensive timber, like burl or walnut except for quality and price in terms of processing?
I'd like to test it with cheap wood before spending on expensive materials.
wood is wood. if you had a specialized purpose for specialized materials, you would know it already.
as it stands you just want the wood for the bulk and any piece of shit that won't flex much at the lengths you're using, in the right grain direction, will be fine
There isn't shit difference other than hardness and the way they appear. The only other differences there might be are really only shared by a small group of exotic woods some are more resistant to decay, some are oily or have some other bullshit in them like the tannins in oak that oxidize metal; miniscule shit

These people don't woodwork. I don't even do it often and still know they're spouting foolishness.

Construction SPF timber is garbage for fine woodwork. It's prone to tearout if your tools aren't razor sharp, noticeably weaker than most hardwoods, and so soft you can put a groove in it with your fingernail. The only reason you'd ever use it is if you REALLY wanted the large grain patterns or were trying to save money at the expense of everything else.

My recommendation? Hard/rock maple. Fairly inexpensive (S2S around here is like $3-4/bft), tight grain, light color (easier to stain), plenty strong and stiff.

Im gonna try new flooring in my living room by myself.
My room is 3'5 x 5 M
Each plank is 19x29 CM

How many of these planks do I need?

I can probably solve it myself but I don't wanna make a mistake. I don't trust my math.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.

My room is 5 meters long and 3 meters wide
Each plank is 29 cm long and 19 cm wide
then make it 15000cm/551 +10% making it 31 just to be sure but 30 should do
first, put both into the same units to avoid mistakes
>room is 5 meters long and 3 meters wide
500cm x 300cm

>plank is 29 cm long and 19 cm wide
They're 29 long, so if you run them the short way,
300cm/29cm = 10.34 planks per row.
500cm/19cm = 26.31 rows... use 27
27x10.34= 279.18
280 planks
Don't know how they fit, but if you can split the planks for the last row and use both halfs, you can subtract 5 planks

OR using the area way,
(500*300)/(19*29) = 272.23 planks (doesn't account for last row being <19cm)

>29 cm

My mistake. The planks are 129cm long
You should not do this project yourself. Get your boyfriend to be in charge of it and you bring him the supplies that he asks for, and beer when he needs it.

What would I look for when buying new drill that can easly drill into hard concrete in my apartment?

My current cheaper hammerdrill refuse to go in more than 1 cm
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
If your current drill refuses to go further than 1cm, make sure you aren't drilling into buried services.
Well depending on how many holes you need you could buy a star drill. You hit it with a hammer rotate a quarter turn hit repeat. Faster than it sounds.

Also make sure you got the right bit before you do anything drastic.
Imitation crab meat
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I'd hammer drill that, if you know what i mean
you should let your landlord handle it, that's why you pay rent.

Anyone here do glassblowing? I've never tried it before but I need to make a coiled glass tube for a project.
Could I just buy a straight glass tube from Amazon and heat it with a propane touch around a piece of steel pipe?
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>but I'll do my best to let it cool slowly
Heat shock matters for soda-lime glass, not so much for borosilicate. The purpose of annealing borosilicate is to remove residual stresses that reduce its strength (it's not likely to just crack on its own like soda-lime glass is prone to). Annealing involves heating glass to the point where the atoms have some mobility but not so much that the glass softens and sags (which will introduce new residual stress). Borosilicate only needs to be cooled slowly to the stress point (a little cooler than the annealing point), below which stresses are locked in, and temporary stresses from heat shock do not result in stable residual stresses. If you want to use soot as an indicator for annealing, you can use a candle.
I need a very specific coil shape, the only reason I'm using glass is because copper rusts. Maybe if I coat the inside and outside of the copper coil in some sort of resin?
>copper rusts

Ever seen a distillery run vinegar through their copper? It comes out blue. Copper oxidizes with repeated sessions of dry and cold, especially in the presence of heat.
I realize copper oxidizes. "Rust" however, is very specifically iron oxide.
I was being pedantic.

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