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Do you make airsoft parts?
Only for u bb
Generally you want to target some niche that nobody is producing anything for commercially. Almost every VR rifle stock on the market is 3D printed for example.
you can't make money '3d printing'
you can make money selling goods to fill a demand that happen to be 3d printed
Tap into the furry market by making large models of their fursonas. Those animal fuckers usually have a lot of money to burn.

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I'm making a table with different woods (base is made of pine and the legs are made of maple), and the varnish doesnt get the same color in them.

What's the best way to match the color? I'm not expecting a 1:1 match, just a general similarity.

Pic unrelated.

How are gold-plating solutions prepared? Is there a way to gold-plate items using a piece of gold you already have?
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>its just salt water solution
>aqua regia with bare hands
Concentrated nitric acid will take a while to burn through your skin but will ignite some types of glove on contact. One case where gloveless is safer.
Good post
That guys hands are done
well done

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How to repair it without using exotic products/tools?

I don't care if the outcome is ugly, I only need it to stop ripping every time I sit.
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Don't tell me you did this. Just pull the fucking window up and wedge a piece of grip fabric between the glass and trim. Or get a motor/regulator from a junkyard. Only a nigger could be this dumb.
Putting new fabric on top of the old makes the new stuff wear out much more quickly. Do it right, and take the old stuff vinyl off first.

If you're just planning on patching it, as opposed to replacing it, it would be easier to sew if you took it off of the chair first, so that you don't have to contend with the foam and Dacron getting in the way. You would have to have access to a stapler to put it back on. At work, I use a C.S Osbourne 120 1/2 to pull staples. They're about $20. A cheapo tack puller from the hardware store would work as well, as long as you don't screw up the vinyl too badly. If a staple breaks when taking it out, an old pair of dikes pulls them out cleanly, or you can cut them short and knock them flat.

You could leave it on and use a curved needle, if you want to take the easy way out. If you're hand-stitching, go with a saddle stitch.

If the existing seam is compromised, stabilize it beyond the rip point. A strangle knot around the seam seems to work well enough.
If you do end up taking it off, you can steam the foam back up while you're at it.
no racism allowed on 4channel sir
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Recently, I have found 4 Vityaz (Russian) mechanical clock in an old house. These clocks were made in the 1970s, and I was determined to fix at least one. Sadly, 2 out of 4 clocks were beyond repair, due to rust and other age related issues, but I was able to fix the remaining ones into working condition.

I had to remove the casings of these devices, due to the state of them.
Since then, I have been tweaking and tampering with them, so they will run more accurate.
This was my first attempt to fix a mechanical clock, but I have been fascinated since then, and looking for more like these, so I can make them click and clack again!

I have given away one to my friend, because he is interested in these too, and I have kept one for myself.

I have uploaded the final result, but please mind, that I am a newbie in fixing clocks. I literally used only my hands and a screwdriver. Even for the smaller parts.

Thank you for reading this, and please send me a message if you wanna see more pictures about the process.

-WareZ, Hungary
Creator of the HEAVEN Development Team
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This was it's original state.
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The "workbench". Literally using my office desk and a cloth.
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After a long fight, my determination won!
Everything was cleaned (as best as I could with homemade stuf) from rust, dust, and other nasty things (sorry lil spider for destroying your home), it can now click and clack happily again.

I now use it daily, just because I like it. And it's loud. And I'm a heavy sleeper.

What trade tends to cultivate the largest egos among its practitioners? Why do you think they're like that?
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>Show these faggots a flawless machine weld and they'll find something to bitch about.
HVAC is like this too. You could post a picture of the most beautiful, flawless furnace installation and some asshole would shit all over it.

I had a woman service manager once, she insisted on riding along with the techs to make it look like she was doing something. Calls took twice as long because I had to stop and explain everything to her. I worked for a few national companies, they plug in managers and supervisors whose only goals are to keep labor down and increase ticket amounts.

IMO the PMs from the major builders are the worst. They get hired fresh out of college with no clue and are told to hammer the trades to get shit done quicker and cheaper. Had more than one yell at me in front of home buyers to make themselves look important.

This shit is part of why I stopped doing field work. Every asshole who watches a video online thinks they know more than me. I can't tell you how many times I've had to mop up after some retard that shit the bed.
electrical engineers imo
Does that mean I'm a calculator while using my calculater?
Fellow nyc fag ,Thinking about changing careers from an electronics tech ,how does low voltage pay? Any tips for starting in the trade ?
I'm actually the phone company. Top pay (5 years) is just under 100k.

I think the money is in alarm systems including fire, also elevators, and building entry and being a locksmith.

I think too many people may be piling into phones/networking side of things.

Do you wear the appropriate PPE when you work? Are you the only one who does? Have you ever been made fun of by doing this? Does your work even give you the necessary PPE? Should you work at a place that does not care?
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i got this for mouse anyways. and standing desk with keyboard flat helps when typing.
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i wouldve got this but short on cash. the one i got really helps and can do gestures
What ASME rules govern the actual work? I know they certify pressure vessels and shit, but what 'rules' do they have that you have to follow?
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I work as a mason laborer for a chimney company. I am one of the few that use a respirator when running thr grinder, and I have a full face mask that I use. I use gloves, but beyond that the main hazard is climbing around on sketchy ass scaffolding. This company sucks and just has us use old splitting boards to walk around but the main mason that I work with is this cool jamaican guy who doesn't give a fuck so I dont say much. But in the end when height is the risk I just have to trust the equipment and understand balance and anything that can possibly happen so that if I fall I know I can grab onto something or whatever. I regularly get on roofs for inspections at close to a 45 degree pitch by myself with an aluminum ladder and nothing else. I just know my limits. I can say free climbing chimneys got me back into bouldering at a climbing gym. Tldr I dont care about heights. Heres a picture from a rebuild on a metal roof.
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I always were my OSHA approved plasti-wrap

Guys I'm about to build a house made of wood and looking to buy some wood for the frame. What wood quality should I target budget wise?

I know that the wood must be dry, but are the precise dimensions important as well? Is there any benefit if the wood is planned or I can just get the cheapest raw cut lumber available and call it a day?

Also what is the perfect moisture? Should I target kiln dried wood only?

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I live in an old family house in california.
Its framed with 1.5x3.5. My mom being from midwest brick home would make comments that house was a "crap toothpick house".

But, truth be told its 65 years old now and there is not a thing wrong with it. Many families have lived in it, looks nice, warm in the winter, cool in the summer, quiet inside.

I guess what im saying is im not really sure its that important depending on where it is located.
Having a basement stuck below the frost line does not really make the house more stable, plenty of houses up here are just built on a standard slab. Basements were more about utility in the north, in the days before modern convenience they offered a good place to fill the washtub and do some laundry in the winter, a wood stove in the basement is great for heating, the basement itself will keep the house warmer in the winter and cooler in the summer, it is a great place for winter storage of root veggies and apples, and plenty more.

These days basements are mostly habit, us northerners grew up with basements, new construction seems an equal mix between basement, half basement, and no basement.
Lumber sold for building is wet for a few reasons.
Not having to dry the lumber makes it less expensive, and prevents waste on the lumberyards side since drying the lumber can cause cracking and warping.
The wet lumber is also larger in dimension, and heavier, for lumbers sold by weight.
Wet lumber is easier to twist into shape, which makes sense when constructing a building, since nothing is ever exactly straight and square, and things sometimes need to be tweeked into place.
Nails go into wet lumber far easier than into dry lumber, and most houses within the past several hundred years or more have relied on steel or iron nails fir construction.
The nails go easier into the lumber, but the lumber dries, tightening the nails in place. The water content of the wood also causes the nails to corrode slightly, bonding the nails to the wood.
Historically, kitchens tended to be located in basements in the Northeast.
The basements were also sometimes finished for storage, and had things like root cellsrs for storing certain types of produce and food stocks.
You are talking of construction grade lumber and that does not apply to the better grades at all such as those grades often used to make sofas like anon mentioned.

The splitting and warping in dry wood is mostly because of the poor milling practices and quick hot kiln runs common in construction grade. The milling means grain goes every which way but straight and the hot kiln dries the outside and they let the moisture in the middle just even out into the super dry outer wood. It works well for construction grades, and keeps it cheap. Hardwoods and the better grade softwoods are dried in a much more controlled manor, but still tend to be a tad on the wet side for furniture or finish work, you will end up with gaps at all your joinery in short order.

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What if someone (e.g. me) would make a telegram/discord/whatever bot that works like imageboards? If you say something to it, it will resend that to everyone else who also talked to him = you get anonymity.

It would assign short names for consistency it you keep chatting and reset it if you stop = no samefagging.

So you can shitpost /diy/ realtime. Would that work?

The problem I see, besides being a giant faggot like every other OP, is threading. You want to be subscribed to shit A but don't care about B. Maybe before starting to chat (e.g. you didn't chat for an hour) you have to pick a topic, for example /ohm/ or /qtdtot/, a simple tag. And only people interested in that topic will get those initial messages (OP), and they will see you as /ohm/new0f1a8g. Everyone else then could join the discussion by replying to that particular "OP" and the discussion then gets encapsulated. Meaning you still get messages from new OPs about shit you're into, but your messages will be forwarded into that particular topic only. You can abandon the thread by stopping chatting for some time, simply replying to another topic or by creating your own.

>nice blog, faggot

As far as I can tell, you're just talking about chatrooms, where the system autohides chat rooms that you aren't "subbed" to.

You could basically call it discord but with browsing to see what rooms exist.
>All these young newfags that have never heard of IRC.
IRC is dead. Well not really, but majority of people aren't there
Well yes, but you identity is hidden!

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It's been 100 years since Bauhaus mixed practicality with beauty!

Who's your favourite designer?
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This is an interesting question because it's near impossible to actually answer the way you would like.

Because design firms and companies go to great lengths to make sure that all design is disassociated with its designer.

There are only "design firms" and companies, intuitively we know that there was definitely one individual who by and large came up with the aesthic design, but we dont really ever get the story of who it was. It just goes to the comapny or firm owner, that person is actually legally prohibited in most cases from saying they did it. That is litterally part of the employment contract for almost every design employee. I think they are getting worried however because lots of employees keep portfolios on stuff like instagram as an ongoing resume so you can kind of figure out whos actually doing what.
Nobody cares.
I think OP meant favorite bauhaus designer.
Jonathon Ives is somewhat of a celebrity

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I have some bags full off fabric scraps and old clothes. Is there something useful can i do with them? All that google spits out is shit like fluffy butterflies or cute little skirts.
Put it in one of those clothes hand-in containers. The cotton will be recycled through blankets.
Fabric scraps are good for patching other clothes and things like that. Worst case senario, you could just use the old clothes for rags.
Make fucktons of micarta.
I dont have any of those containers near where I live. And im guessing recyling the cotton myself would not be easy.
Thats what im currently doing, I just have to much of the stuff.
Thats the kind of thing I was looking for. I will try that if I can get some resin.

I also have 2 leather jackets if someone has any ideas what to make out of leather (that a scrub with only basic tools like me could do)

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My beloved boots that i got a great deal on and wear like every day while working are starting to tear at the soles on mulitple sides but only one side is really worrying me, could some one point me in the direction of shoe glue or some shit so i can fix them?
Shoe Goo. This should have been in the sqtddtot thread.
Ahhh my bad but thanks for the suggestion
Hi OP, currently wearing same bootsI got at goodwill for $6.99 (you have hot weather variant with vents too? gotta watch out for mud wearing those while wearing them or i get little mud dots on my socks, only downside)
shoe goo is the answer, i used that to keep a pair of bates RATs alive for much longer than they deserved
My favorite all purpose bonding agent is e-6000.
Beat me to it.

Confirm ing e-6000 works

I usually wear


But was thinking of red wings, are they worth the extra 100?
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That's some industrial strength tabai. Sauce?
>40 hours
I work more, on my feet the whole time. There's no regulations for shoes at this job but I wear boots because I like them and had safety toes because they're useful, but I'm willing to give that protection up.
They had better last, too. I'd buy knock-off converse or some cheaper shoe if I were wholly concerned with price but I chew through those in no time. They're cheap compared to some of the suggestions here.
>wide toebox
Way to oversimplify. A wide shoe doesn't fit me properly anyway because I have normal sized feet but monstrous bunions
>properly fitted
Have you ever been to redwing? They measure your feet and pick out boots that "fit" but hasn't stopped them from causing me discomfort.
>They had better last, too. I'd buy knock-off converse or some cheaper shoe if I were wholly concerned with price but I chew through those in no time.

I dont think buying shoes with thinner softer soles are going to hold up any better
With canvas shoes, my bunion painfully rubs through the side. The soles are never the problem with any footwear as my jobs have always been on smooth concrete floors. Buying a totally different type of shoe was obviously a risk but If these last even a year, the price/performance ratio will still be the same as my redwings.
Based. Welcome to the good side.

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Been looking for a wireless (or wired) door chime like pic related but I can't find anything that isn't Chinese garbage that will stop working in 2 weeks.

I've tried rigging my doors with bells but sometimes customers are able to open the doors without moving them enough to ring.

Any ideas, /diy/?

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How would you make yourself a bunch of copper shavings? Home style.
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>Implying there isn't Jamals and Cetuses (pluralis Cletii?) in Kenya.
Not all blacks are niggers you know...

You go to any MAMR races?
It's "Cleatus'."

And we don't car to steal shit. Most of us just horde a pasture full of shit to play with and trade for other shit or beer.

I went into town with a pickup bed trailer of steel and used to money to buy 80 pounds of copper from a buddy.
I used to steal brass shavings. I would wear carhartt bibs, jump into a 40 yard dumpster full of brass shavings. Load up 25 gallon drums full. I had a 15lb barbell i would smash them down to fit more. Had to use a pick up truck with a winch to haul the damn things out. I was getting .55 cents a pound for brass. I was drivimg all over the state to scrap yards returning that shit.

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