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Let's all try to be nice edition.

Previous thread --> >>1589135


In /rcg/ we discuss anything & everything remote controlled - multirotors, fixed wing, cars, rovers, helis, boats, submarines, battlebots, lawnmowers, etc.

>How do I get started with racing drones?



> How to build a racing drone (16 part video series from Joshua Bardwell)

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No need, this one is still miles away from the end of the catalogue. This is a slow board, we don't need a new thread as soon as the old one reaches the bump limit.
Fuck that
What would happen if I ran my babyhawk on 2s instead of 3s?
It would probably work, but be a bit anaemic.
So XT30 is standard on 2S like it is on 3S?

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Hey y'all, you guys ever concerned about the tin can security of garage doors?

I'm buying my first house in a month and it's got a sweet, sweet two car garage (pic related), regular sheet metal doors and whatnot. I'm a little concerned about keeping my more expensive shit in there, such as my welder, good drills, etc. I plan on installing a motion light, and securing the door however else I can according to the Google lists I just read, but it still seems flimsy to me.

What are your thoughts? Am I just paranoid? I suppose it's not much harder to get through a lot of regular house doors if you know where to hit them. Maybe I'll just make use of the millions of lockable cabinets in there, but that seems like a goddamn pain to deal with on a daily basis.
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Hmm. Well first off, thanks for the advice. Here's my situation:

House is from 1935, and the foundation has obviously been redone. No idea when, but I'd imagine within the last 30 years. The concrete walls and floor of the basement looks to be completely new and it's looking pretty good from my eye. Only things are a few cracks, maybe a meter long, but with no lateral shifting. They've all been filled in, and the filling hasn't cracked again; to my knowledge, that's not a bad sign? Just the standard wear and tear of foundations.

Now, I do have to put up gutters (we're closing the sale early next month, so I'm hoping to have them up before fall), and there's obviously a big need for them around the house -- damp and mushy soil, standing water after it rains, the usual.

Any other advice based on the above? I don't wanna let it fall into ruin.
Also I don't see any concerning cracks in the walls. There are a few straight-line small ones between the laths, but again I'm under the impression that that's just standard aging, and is largely cosmetic.

I haven't spent a night in the house yet, but once I move in, I'll be sure to take note of how it all sounds as it cools.

Side question, any basic tips on identifying asbestos? I haven't seen anything alarming yet, but I'd like to know what's bad when I see it
if you live in a neighborhood so bad that you worry about your garage full of stuff being yoinked by maruding pavement dwellers perhaps its time you sell your garage full of junk and get a condo in a nicer area.
This man has made a lot of assumptions
>drill a hole in track just above a roller
>put a fuckhuge padlock through it
You'd only be able to unlock it from the inside, but the only way that door is moving is if it's ripped right out of it's frame.

So, I have a stupid request. I have recently as in 5 minutes ago learned that the best work pants I have ever owned were discontinued. I am looking for something similar and all of my online searches lead to dead ends. These pants are perfect loose relaxed fit, DOUBLE I MEAN DOUBLE POCKETS... Literally the front and rear pockets are over sized and there is two of them. The were made by cabelas and are cotton, kind of a canvas material. Over sized belt loops. The main attraction is having 2 full sized pockets on top of each other for all 4 of the main pockets apparently when cabelas merged with bass pro shops they were discontinued. I don't honestly know what they would be classified as work wear, hunting, or what have you.
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Is the hype real with their stuff then?
my favorite were like those those Dickies dungaree Carpenter pants, but the ones without the hammer loop
Sadly I cant find them anywhere anymore
For $85 a pair it better be
You don't buy them at full price, you get them on sale. The hype is close: they last, they're comfortable, there's a shit ton of pockets; but they're thick and heavy, and if you're the kind of guy that can't deal with heat they aren't for you. They seem to honor their guarantee, too.
Actually, there's a Father's day sale going on right now, most of their pants are less than $50.

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I fucked up big time /diy/
I tried to repair my yellowish opaque lights and the thing came really nice except for the part where I just right fuck it really high. After applying an oven cleaner foam on them, the yellow just went away. Then I hand-applied a metal polishing product and they came really transparent and bright. Good thing these inventions of mine worked really well.
Now, in the meaning of getting them glaring, I sprayed a finish coating. This resulted in a really clean result.
Then I did something terrible, I let the car under the hot sun before the varnish dried up and it wrinkled badly.
Now my lights look WORSE than the ones in the upper picture and the coating refuses to come out. Tried polishing but does nothing now.

I'm I permanently fucked?
(actual car not pictured).
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>120 grit
Wtf is wrong with you lol
Don’t use oven cleaner
Don’t use toothpaste
Don’t use baking soda
Or headlight cleaning kits or any other crap like that.
Buy 600 grit, 1000 grit, 1500 grit wet dry sandpaper, a bottle of plastic polish and some cheap cotton rags.
All can be purchased at Walmart for $10-$15us.
With a little soapy water BY HAND sand the headlights through the different grits, then buff with cotton and plastic polish.
No need to use a drill, because those can cause heat. Sanding by hand will take 10 minutes per headlight. Pic related My 1998 Silverado headlight assembly
This is the plastic polish I used on the light assembly. I also use it on my acrylic pen blanks.
not bad advice. but ma\ybe follow the procedure by rinsing the lenses completely clean and free of soap or polish residue, then paint with a spray on clear coat. that will preserve your surface as a shiny crystal clear appearance
I do that when I want remove the raised letters and have a totally smooth surface. I hate when dirt and wax builds up in them.

My grandpa's land has become a fucking jungle.
What is the best way to remove all the overgrown bush, thorny plants and crap?
I was thinking of renting a motorized rotary tiller, but I'm unsure if it can handle chopping through all the plant crap. Is there something like an automachete?
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cut a tunnel into it and make a hidden camping site
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My county uses something like pic related for clearing overgrowth away from roads, the only difference is my county's machine uses a spinning blade like a lawn mower blade instead of this grinder. I've seen it chop trees up to an inch and a half diameter and have no doubt it could cut trees up to 2 inches in diameter.
simple: have someone invade his land.
and bingo, it is no longer his land.
is he a duke?
that happened a lot in the middle ages.
there is even a song about it:
"your land is my land"
Or just an actual goat
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goats, I bought 4 and they've turned my 5 acre jungle with 5 foot hogweed, poison ivy, thistle, and golden rod into a pure pasture in less than 3 months. They cost me about $300, but that was less than a used brush hog, and they're far more effective and actually fertilize the soil, they also can get to areas the brush hog can't, or requires weed eating which I hate doing. You might be able to rent some goats from a farm, where I'm at there's actually people that do it a a service here.

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Hey gentlemen, I'm looking to make my own telescope with an 16 inch lense, and an 8 foot focal length.

I'm watching a video on youtube about it, and I'd like to make one myself but I can't find anywhere reliable that has a glass piece for less than $900 but they're labeled mirror blanks, not just glass bits.

I'm pretty new to this, and don't necessarily know the correct terminology. If someone could help me out, that'd be grand.
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>Here's the video, he's making one with 16" lenses
That video is about making a reflector telescope. He's grinding, polishing, and aluminizing mirrors, not lenses. And that $900 is for a flat glass "blank" that you then grind yourself. A 16" optical grade mirror is a lot more. However, as shown in the video, you don't need "proper" borosilicate glass like you'd use for a scientific telescope mirror. Good luck finding a big enough piece of secondhand glass though. A quick googling suggests that http://telescopemirrorblanks.com/telescope-mirror-blank-clearance-items.html might have an in-between price point that could work for you.

So it looks like you'll be grinding your own. That's dozens of hours of physically hard but also painstakingly meticulous work, with OCD-level cleanliness to prevent scratches or other defects. Multiply that by a few times to practice on smaller mirrors before tackling a 16" one, which will presumably not be trivial to replace if needed. The guy in the video has been doing it for a long time, and is good at it, so you should expect to start out slower and clumsier, with a lot of attention to little things that come naturally to him now. Notice how the level of precision is such that thermal distortion from a small amount of warm water is enough that it has to be carefully managed. As I said before, it's ambitious. The tight tolerance fabrication of the telescope body and mount is practically an afterthought in comparison, and for a telescope that big, it's not insubstantial or inexpensive itself.

If you pull this off, document the process, and share it here, you'll probably be remembered for a while as a minor /diy/ celebrity. It's just a very ambitious project, especially for someone "pretty new" to it. I would recommend starting small and working your way up, so learning mistakes are relatively easy to deal with.

>If you drop your mirror and break it, you were supposed to do it the first day
Yeah, that guy's pretty cool.
>16 inch

Cool project though OP, good luck

some good lapping skills involved, you should ask some questions and find out how he lapped the curve into it, because it looks to me like the lap size he picked was just small enough to do most of the lapping in the middle, not sure how much of a perfect curve that will give.

Looks like the only way he had to measure the curve was to shine a flashlight at it and measure the results too.

I suspect you could do a form of interferometry if the curve isn't too deep, with the curved lense being the optical flat, and use it on a flat surface?
Amateur telescope maker here:

"Stellafane" website has all the info you need.

Choose a pyrex blank if you can, as the extra cost and work leads to a better scope.
The are called blanks because they are more than mere glass.

Borosilicate glasses "pyrex" or "borofloat" work best because they take high polish, a quite a bit tougher than regular float glass that you find in Windows so it's resistant to scratching, and also expand a lot more slowly under heat changes resulting in a more stable and better corrected image. The usual thing that you do is you start with a small one around 6 in or so, and learn along the way. It takes a lot longer to do a bigger one in the amount of time you'll save by doing the small one and learning from that bunch of mistakes rather than a big one will more than pay for the extra time

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Can you charge a laptop from a lightbulb outlet ? I know the wires can handle an 100w lightbulb but I'm not sure it can handle my laptop it runs at 19v 6A
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19v 6A ~= 120A is the max power the power supply is rated at. but sounds like he asked about charging it so i am assuming it is off when charging. i don't know what the charge current it is but probably much less that 6A. more like 1-2A.
>wire's can handle the wattage
it is not about W it is about amperage (ampacity to be exact). and a typical wire used in home wiring is thick enough to handle about 20 to 30 A. derate ~20% for aluminum.
Can you power lightbulb from a laptop outlet?
Made me laugh.
>wires can handle an 100w lightbulb
That's a wrong way to think about it. The wires handle current, not bulbs. Yours should handle at least 10A unless you live in a hut that you built yourself. So don't worry about wattage. 100W is so that you don't use 200W bulbs since things will get too hot so it is a fire hazard.
and your 100W bulb only draws about 0.5A

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I'm looking to install a new meter on my dashboard into a custom molded holster. I originally planned to use Sugru repair mass, but that's surprisingly expensive so I'm looking into other, cheaper moldable materials before buying it.

One tip I've found is mixing Sikaflex with corn starch, and you could indeed get a lot more of it for the same price. Is something with corn starch still reliable in a car that's going to experience tons of moisture and temperature changes throughout the year? Is the corn starch even a necessary ingredient? What material would you suggest?
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The sound system was a fun experiment, but the original speakers are more than strong enough for daily use.

Now that I have more time to write, here are some more details of the inverter installation. I don't know much about electronics, but apparently this thick cable was recommended for this project. How can the inverter benefit from a cable that's thicker than the pole it attaches to?
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Here's the minus terminal connected to some metal part inside the center console. I'm very familiar with its innards from all the installations I've done there, so I just connected both the cables to the inverters minus pole and clamped their other ends to the metal.
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And here's the inverter itself. For the weekend I pulled an extension cord from it to the eqipment in the trunk for highest audio power I've ever had. It actually doubled as massaging seats as well.
>Sikaflex was a mistake

Your whole car was a mistake
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>It's a Mazda 323, but with some customizations it already looks a lot cooler than a boring stock car.

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So I want to build a log cabin and the only space I have available is underneath overhead power lines. I'm sure the law has something to say about what I can and can't do but I can't seem to find it. I'm in the UK if that helps. Pic hopefully related.
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Is this real asking for a frens
Yes this is well documented with video
You need to understand what you're seeing.
The tube lights up with voltage gradient, which has nothing to do with radiation except a common source.
Radiation (and voltage stress) are diminished by distance. That's why the wires are high.
When you sleep cosied up to your electric blanket, or basking in the glow of your 2-bar radiator you're in a higher radiation field than under the power wires.
There were tests done at a private school I worked at where a high voltage power line passed over the aths field. The readings were, by design, well below recommended levels.
Oi! You'll need a building liocense, a standing under a power line liocense, a posting on a chan liocense, and an applying for a liocense liocense.
In the us, so can't say for sure. However, in the us, power company easements do not allow structures in them. They can literally tear it down and send you a bill for it.

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Update: ive finished about half the construction and have yet to print the other parts.

Just wanted to say that this isnt a dead project
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How am I retarded, anon? I did not suggest that OP's design would work, on the contrary, I seriously doubt it will. I still applaud his work, because he is making the effort to try and build something himself. Sure it may seem way out of the hobbyist league, but everyone starts somewhere. OP may learn from his early designs what works and what does not and eventually make something spectacular.
He got it from here. Actually looks legit if you ask me, but that doesn't guarantee OP will succeed.
At least he's not hacking away with an angle grinder like some anon a few months ago.
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God speed OP

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Whoops just spilled a large amount of this stuff on the ground and is poured all into my neighbors yard. What am I in for? His garden took a direct hit.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
this kills everything on the ground and keeps it dead. used it around my garage, mixed, and nothing grew back for two years.
Hope for this. Do some further reading on that shit. Maybe you can run water to dilute and minimize effects. Hope it doesn't make it to some root systems.
Water the area down with a hose for a few hours if you can get away with it. This will dilute the stuff and help wash it away.
RIP Garden

probably wont do much ground clear is junk anyways

they lowerd Glyphosate content to 5%

now if it was a bottle of Eliminator weed killer with 55% Glyphosate content his yard is gonna look like the moons surface

Update time guys.

I bought a couple vanon 4.0 ah batteries for my DeWalt tools about 4 months ago and have been using and abusing them on job sites since then.

The first thing of note is these battery's were actually 3.0ah as marked on the cells inside 1500 mAh in two banks.

They were as well constructed as the DeWalt batteries I had that I looked inside. Which were a 1.3 ah and a 2.0 ah xr.

Performance wise they did great until last week now they barely hold a charge draining the battery with the flashlight in about 30 minutes and getting around 5 minutes of cut time on the sawzall.

Durability was excellent. They've been dropped dozens of times from approx. 15 feet and twice from 45 feet. The cases held up besides deep scoring from use. The internals remained intact no damage from any use.

At 4 months of heavy use everyday I would say these battery's are an okay value. I wouldn't buy them again as stolen batteries can be had off Craigslist and OfferUp for $10 an ah. So $40 for a real new DeWalt 4.0 ah battery. However for the home user they seem like great batteries. I believe they would last just as long as real batteries in that usage as they'll be left for storage for months at a time.

Overall it's world's better than no battery. But it's not a replacement for the real deal.
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
Brand new cells made for vannon they had lg markings.
So maybe shitty protection?

There are some brands where the protection is built into the tools and chargers rather than the batteries themselves. The HF Bauer 20V packs are like that, and the Ridgid 12V is the same (although the 12V makes more sense because it’s only 3 cells to balance and they need the batteries to be compact to fit in the handles). I imagine if you bought knockoff chink batteries for a brand that used that system, they would last almost as long as OE provided they aren’t trash cells.
They have a basic under voltage protection circuit and overcurrent fuse
That’s not all there is too it though. Temperature matters a lot when you’re running them hard. Plus the balancing, I have heard that about cheap protection boards saying they’re not very good at all with unbalanced cells. So if you got a pack using the used or crappy cells and one of them wasn’t charging or discharging the same as others, you could’ve been fucking all of them when you’re charging 4 cells to 110% as the 5th cell is only at 60%.

yes you better off buying up junk packs and rebuilding with better 18650's

My goal is to make this greenhouse for under $40. I'm 50% done. This is 10'x8'x8
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>Wayne that cabling will damage the tree

Thank you. I know. I'm going to put some 2x4 blocks to space it.

>Dat CIA login...lolbright
just ignore it, those are not the droids you're looking for. It's a prank.
Mmmkay...did you volunteer for the 4chin assignment or were you handpicked by Kessler,Spencer & Buttgieg?
get house
get green paint
paint house
enjoy greenhouse
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>get house
>get green paint
>paint house
>enjoy greenhouse

BINGO, the riddle is solved.
Why is the water mucky green ?

How do I build this for less I found an used solar panel for 50 € its 250w what kind of chip doses the portable one use can I make the same tipe of charger with a the used one?
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Its a solar charger for laptop's and it converts solar to 19v stable what would an aftermarket chip that does the same conversion cost how can I find one
You need to know the output voltage of the solar panel, then find a buck converter with enough amps to do the job, or alternatively rewire the solar cells to put out about 19V. Also I hope you realize the 250W panel will be huge, not something to stuff in your backpack.
30v would be the max output and 7A can
A buck converter transform that into 19v 6A
Yeah, just get big one.
These have adjustable output so you'll want to make sure not to fry your laptop before connecting it, but otherwise it should be fine.
Look's good thanks

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I am making a Thermal Regulation Garment (abbreviated TRG from here on out) based on the idea used in space suits where cool water is circulated in tubes around the body.

I have an inline water pump, a small radiator, a small water block, a couple of solid state heat pumps (thermo-electric coolers), a bunch of tubing of various diameter, and a CPU heatsink.

The plan is to put the cold side of the thermoelectric heat pump in contact with the water block, and the hot side in contact with the CPU heatsink. The water block will be connected to the inline pump. The water line with the cool water will then be wrapped around various body parts. The heat from my body will flow into the cool water tubes, and the water will then have its excess heat removed with the thermoelectric heat pump. Both the heat pump and the water pump are run off of a 5V power supply in the form of one or more portable USB batteries. Additional thermoelectric heat pumps can be added as needed. I have two sizes, one with a power draw of ~20 watts, the other I think is ~40 watts. (that could be the cooling power, rather than the power consumption, but Im not sure off the top of my head.) I may put the tube in a sheath of very thin, soft fabric for comfort.

>> ***Description of problem/question***

My main concern is that the flexible tubing I have (basically fish tank airline tubing, but not quite) will not transfer heat effectively and so will not cool me off. Is this likely to be a problem, and if so, what can I do to fix it? What kind of tubing can I use to that will be more thermally conductive, but not particularly expensive either?

>> TLDR: I need tubing that can hold water and can be wrapped around my body that will allow heat transfer between the water in the tube and my body, what should I look for?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
why hot water?

The reason I want to use electric is because I wont have easy access to ice or cold water where Im going to be using this. I can charge batteries every day or so, but I dont have time to make ice runs 5 times a day.
>'old fashion' hot water bottle as a reservoir
or a Camelback water bladder
>need tubing that can hold water and can be wrapped around my body that will allow heat transfer

you need to study heat transfer methods & materials

aliuminum is good at heat transfer, but you cant very easily make flexible tubing out of it, and it will get heavy with alot of tubing.

there are a variety of "heat transfer" compounds used in electronics, like that white heat transfer paste.

I am sure there would be some chemical-engineering classification scale for denoting the heat transfer qualities of various materials, whatever the unit of measurement is for that, idk

what type of tubing do they they use in astronaut suits ?
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basically Wiki
thermal conductance = kA/L, measured in W⋅K−1.

thermal resistance = L/(kA), measured in K⋅W−1.

heat transfer coefficient = k/L, measured in W⋅K−1⋅m−2.

thermal insulance = L/k, measured in K⋅m2⋅W−1.

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