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File: survival all.jpg (249 KB, 1280x1000)
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Is it possible to build a bunker that can withstand all kinds of natural or artificial disasters at the same time?
Earthquakes(having some kind of radio or battery signal to ask for help if you end up trapped,
floods(flotatores which can stand the heavy weight)
and social strife such as civil wars or nukes.
i dont mention volcanos becuase there arent any in my country.
I saw some episodes of "shouldnt be alive" and im starting to prepare for possible survival situations.
Is a portable(attaching it to a car or van like one of those mobile homes), water-floating bunker a realisitc and do-able idea?
I know bullet-proof glass is a thing,that would be one.
There's 30% chance my country will enter a civil war or a dictatorship(the bad type)in the next decade.
8 replies omitted. Click here to view.
So you want a bunker that can withstand a nuclear blast, so it has to be underground.
You want a bunker that withstands floods, so it has to be perfectly sealed.
You want to withstand earthquakes, so it has to be rigid.

Do you have a degree in structural engineering and geology?
>Not to mention Russian nukes became powerful enough to destroy the place after it was built.
It's more like they just targeted a lot there. The plan was apparently to blow the mountain clean away.
Build mobile bugout. Build concrete bunker after. Then decide to bug in or out.

I would go as far as to buy an ultralight thet is electric and burry it in a field with a sprayer and gas. Light that fucker in daylight anand when the flames are gone take off
that sounds fucking retarded
Wants to build rape den like Lake and NG /Frietzal

Sup /diy/, this may be a stupid question but here I go:
I got this bottled water cooler dispenser for free and am now cleaning it. While doing so, I researched a bit about them and how the can get infected (especially when not used often). This led me to thing about modifying the dispenser since I probably won't empty a 5 gallon bottle in such a short time frame than in an office for example.
So according to my research, the main causes are besides surface contamination from the pin is air getting back into to system from the dispenser and air replacing the water when it is drawn in the bottle.
While the first one can be fixed with the water cooler flushing every so often itself out, I'm wondering how the second issue can be fixed. My main idea would be to install a small ozone generator at the air inlet and activate it when water is drawn so that it enters the bottle and kills any bacteria, but perhaps do you lads have a better idea for this?
Why not use an air filter?
the unit already has a little active coal air filter at the inlet, but I'm unsure if it is effective
Why don't you try and see if the filter already fixes your issue?
I guess cleaning those things from time to time is necessary anyway.
What a good idea.
Note they dont insta make ozone (close but not instantly), the generator would have to be triggered by the water spigot. Also, you would want to always turn off the spigot after a 'gulp' else the ozone would leak out into the room, and (at least the one I intend to make to try your idea) that would be a massive amount.

Also, ozone destroys rubber quick, find another way to seal the tank to the base or have spares.
Also, ozone will rust into nothing anything that isn't plastic or stainless
The bottles are usually made out of polycarbonate which is apparently ozone safe, other than that and the filter holder which is made of abs, there are no other plastics or rubbers in the way of the ozone. The reservoir, where the water from the bottle rests in, is made of stainless steel.

Like >>1636058 said, cleaning them from time to time is necessary, but I think that little filter won't do much.

The ozone generator could be activated with a proximity sensor so that it has enough time to generate before the 'gulp' happens and air is drawn inside

for bikers
i dont like the curbside in my area. when they build the sideway, they forgot to lower it for bikes and strollers and stuff. it is maybe 5 cm/2 inch.
is it leal to lower it on my own?>>
how do i do it best?
i guess by chisel and hammer. stone breaks by the line the force is applyed, so i need to place the chisel in a low angle. do i need a trench for that?
pic not mine
37 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Git gud. How can you not ride up and down that little curb

Nope, pedestrian.
Cyclists get the rope.
>they forgot to lower it for bikes and strollers and stuff. it is maybe 5 cm/2 inch.

It has nothing to do with bikes, strollers, or "stuff".
It's in compliance with ADA Standards for Accessible Design.
The design is a compromise between handicap access and surface water runoff control.

Changing it is a violation of US Federal law and punishable with heavy fines. The state has to make the curb that way.

If you change it you can be arrested for destruction of state government property.
See Violent Crime Control and Law Enforcement Act of 1994, Pub. L. 103-322, § 330016, 108 Stat. 1796, 2146-47 (1994). When property damage does not exceed $100, the offense is a misdemeanor punishable by a fine of up to $100,000, one year imprisonment, or both. See 18 U.S.C. §§ 3559(a), 3571.
Civil Engineering 101.....
Dont Touch the Public Highways infrustructure , Jail time if you do

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Hello diy,
I'm installing granite counter tops.
Can I install them on a slope?
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>Can I install them on a slope?
>should you

All kitchen worksurfaces should be installed level, just install them level and seal the back against the wall with a bead of silicone, tiles, beading etc

t.kitchen fitter
I swear this is the exact kitchen from those isis cooking videos
Good, crush those boomer toes
>Can I install them on a slope?

Yes! Just use the industry standard "1 in 5" slope gradient.
NO always flat and level

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Anyone who made the transition from gas powered to electric tools, are you happy with the change? Is maintainence easier or harder? Something you'd recommend?
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>0:53 - autistic groaning
What did he mean by this?
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Ryobi's are good enough electric tools. The weed wacker is great but the batteries are costly. I use two batteries and keep them charged and clean the machine thoroughly after every use.
zoomer who does landscaping so u can automatically disregard my opinion, i've used ryobi one+ and 40v for trimmer and leafblower. the one+ battery is absolute dogshit for both, in terms of both battery life and power, but the 40v is breddy gud from my experience. pretty much no maintenance but batteries cost a ridiculous amount new (at h*me d*pot they're $100, even though you can cop a 40v blower with battery included for like $120).
Growing my first lawn here. When exactly should I go about mowing it down? Do I just wait until its above 3 inches and then maintain that until the rest fills in? There are still thin patches that aren't growing in and I don't see why.
>not lazily driving the riding mower around the yard while drinking beer

Why even have grass?

Any sculpters out there? I really want to get into sculpting but I'm not sure how to start. I enjoy making very realistic snowmen and sand people at the beach but am looking for a more permanent medium to work with. I prefer working with my hands and touching what I make, even when I'm drawing to an extent, but I would still be interested in information about both rock sculpting as well as clay sculpting. Specifics things I'm looking for are:
>what are some specific differences in using different mediums?
>what are the most fundamental/essential sculpting tools?
>what do materials generally cost?
>are there specific brands you reccomend?
>what can I make without a kilm
>any beginner's tips?
77 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
Not half bad, and I like where this is going. When I was visiting DC, I was really moved by the artistic sculptures and wanted to learn how.

She's got some hamhocks for arms, but like you mentioned, structural support can be tricky.
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Sculptures like this are absolutely beautiful, as a non artist it pains me to know I would never create something like that, respect
>as a non artist
These are learned skills, no one is born knowing how to sculpt minute details and have a full grasp of anatomy. It takes lots of practice but it's definitely achievable.

You can, technically, achieve this or similar results with even not that much practice.
Wow. Every inch of that sculpture screams FERTILITY. I am impressed.
Mhe, the head stands out like a mofo. It doesn't flow like the body and it's too plain. I appreciate the factvthsf it was done on purpose to makevthe face the focal point but for my taste it needs more work on face and arms. 10 for idea 8 for execution. I may post a titorial in this thread if its still up tonight and ya'll want it.

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Anybody have a Software Defined Radio? I have pic related coming in the mail and am looking for some ideas with what to do with it besides the general scanner stuff.
27 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
which kit is this?
I care. Decoding weather sats is great, especially if you can do so after SHTF.

Make a quad antenna for 137 and you get great pics.

the weather sats will probably stop operating sometime after the SHTF. The attitude control system isn't entirely autonomous.
You need a loicence to broadcast in almost every country. There are some bands you don't need licences tho, think car key fobs garage door opener and wireless doorbells. There are small ranges for civilian uses like this. But the VAST majority of the electromagnetic spectrum is locked without loicences everywhere. Big fines too for offenders if you get caught!!
Really depends on how bad the SHTF is.

Hello guys.
I'm wondering if there is a way to do sulfurless non hardening plasticine/clay.
I know nothing about materials, but basically I need to mass produce (with a mold, hence the sulfurless) non hardening models.
It is for silicone molds, right?
King of random on youtube has instructions for getting clay out of a river but it looks like aids to do
>reading comprehension

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I just want to dig a big hole without it being filled in by either the government or naturally, but I live in a city and there doesn't seem to be any place I could legally just start digging
(picture unrelated)
14 replies omitted. Click here to view.
This. This meme is literally only two months old, and there are this many fng's here? God damn. Lurk most, dipshits.
Helping your son with his science project i see, based OP is based

No he knows. But rather that pay a water well company to dig or even have any desire for hole digging probably he just is trolling /diy

I never thought id say it bit this place os even more shit lately

Yall have no idea how dangerous holes even are. When i was pipelining i almost broke my knee in a 4 feet deep trench. Knocked the air out of me. Took a hoe and 4 guys to shove the dirt away that shelfed off. I was hammering on a faggot fucking fire hydrant and not watching the sidewall. Of course my coworker was supoosed to be watchibg but hes an idiot and you cant trust anyone else for your safety

4 feet guys.

And I'm not a small guy.
Well anon you might wanna check those numbers or start supplying pic related.

It's $10 a foot here man...

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>video of guy spray painting
>comes out perfectly in a mist

>use spray paint myself
>runny as fuck, comes out in a thick wet streaks
>running down the spray tip like crazy
This always happens to me and I can't find any information on this. Am I fucking retarded? Why the fuck does this always happen? I have tried shaking the ever living fuck out of the can for several minutes, shaking it for 1 minute, not shaking it at all, cold outside, warm outside, no matter what it always sprays in this shitty weird V pattern. And it sprays so much I literally can't even do a light coat, one pass does this thick fucking irregular coat and the paint comes out with big drops everywhere.
11 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>don't buy cheap paint
>shake until the metal ball comes loose, then for about another minute. Change your shaking technique during that minute to really mix it up
>don't hold down the nozzle forever. Start off your target, sweep across once then stop. Overlap the last 30% or so from your last line. Shake after every 10 ot 15 passes. Your first coat should have a lot of the base material showing through. Py your 3rd coat you should have good coverage. 4 passes like this will give you a perfect coat
> keep a good foot and a half between the can and the material. A lot of people spray too close

Not related to your problem, but don't underestimate your primer. I spend more on primer than I do on paint. SEM makes a damn good primer that has an amazing spray pattern and good build. Sand your primer with a 300 or so grit lightly before painting, wet sanding works best... and wipe down with a microfiber cloth to remove sanding dust
Oh yeah, and clear the nozzle like another fag said. For clear coat I toss the can after even if some is left (I just keep applying on my last can to get the most out of it)... A few bucks isn't worth hours of painting priming and sanding.

Also, don't spray a can til the very end. Spatter sucks
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>Just spent 3 minutes shaking a can as a test and it still hasn't stopped rattling. Is up/down not enough? Let's talk technique here.
no no no no no, you gotta do it in a round and round motion like you're stirring a pot and hold it perpendicular to the earths gravitational pull
>Just spent 3 minutes shaking a can as a test and it still hasn't stopped rattling

OP, spray paint cans have a ball inside to stir and mix the paint components inside. No matter how long you shake it wont stop rattling

Anyone know where I can find a variable temperature controller that actually varies the output just like a dimmer switch, other than just ON/OFF?

I don't care where I get it from or even have to strip it from some appliance....

The hardest thing to find is that it's actually VARIABLE..... like dimmer switch type variable. NOT just a predictive on/off controller. Yep, I've seen PID controllers, but they all seem to be PID that controls an on/off SSR.

HALP me! Googled for an hour and now need your experience in what terms to search.....
Tear apart a NuWave induction cooktop, they've got 5° or 10° (Fahrenheit) incremental control (might still be on/off, dunno). Or you could just wire a rheostat into an existing circuit and experiment with the temp output.
helix makes some for snake cages, so the temperature range is pretty limited and they cost like $150
Why do you want to vary the output itself, most elements won't behave how you think they will under those conditions, just use an appropriately rated element and just use switched output
You know your able to vary the duty cycle of an SSR to achieve proportional control right? Any good discrete PID controller will have a selectable output configuration either 4-20mA, 0-10V, duty cycle ect.

what is this type of feed called?
8 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.

it doesn't look helical, it's a stack of disks. i would guess the top disk (at the focal point) is some sort of reflector.
Center feed.
> uPak C060QDA Quick Deploy Center Fed Antenna
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How is an animal supposed to eat out of that?

Agreed. It's hard to see with that satellite dish looking thing in the way.

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What does /diy do to replace watch batteries without scratching up the back plate? Even with the right tools it can be really easy to fuck up and end up with a huge scratch.
11 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
I take it to the Chinese jeweler who replaces the battery for 5
>Yeah, if you just roughly want to know what time it probably is.
>Too dumb to fix a watch with 35 parts.

Mine keep time at +-5-10 seconds a day.
When you work outside the screen on the phone is hard to see
Congratulations, mine keeps +/- 5s quarterly.
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Here's a new one. I have a watch with a screw-on back (Seiko 7T62-0CE8). To remove the back, I use a throwaway IKEA tool for putting together a GU10 light socket. It has two prongs exactly 30mm apart. I ordered a bag of gaskets on eBay for when the gasket gets worn out.

You could probably make the same thing by getting a flat piece of sheet metal and filing away a 30mm slot.

>take it to the Chinese jeweler
There's no guarantee they won't install a cheap battery, fuck up the gasket, cross-thread the case and destroy it, or even replace your watch with a counterfeit depending on where you go. It really is easier to DIY.


I’m absolutely disgusted by the way people who work with their hands a lot behave. I have a mechanical engineering degree, and I’m desperately trying to learn all the things I need to know that school didn’t teach me. I don’t know what the fuck all of these tools are, I don’t know what all of these components are, I don’t know what this or that piece is or how to assemble this or that machine. I really want to learn but I find when I ask questions to people that build things, they are absolutely fucking pricks.

I’m not trying to sound like an asshole, but most of what they say is totally unintelligible to me, they speak in weird jargon or have made up terminology for things and then when you ask them they act like everything is a dumb question or you’re a “pussy” for not knowing exactly what they mean. People that work on their cars are probably the most insufferable people of all time because they junk they’re fucking geniuses and that everything they know from decades of experience is “common sense”.

That’s another phrase I’ve come across hundreds of times from these dickheads, “common sense”. Everything is “common sense” to them, everything is obviously one way and not the other and you’re a fucking retard if you don’t get that, right?

I’m just trying to learn things and these people’s egos are too fragile and they’re so obsessed with this “college vs non college” education crap that they have a huge chip on their shoulders nonstop. I’m really growing to fucking hate them.
257 replies and 28 images omitted. Click here to view.
>work for phone company
>old guys that knew left 30 years ago and didnt tell anyone shit.
Literally cards clickingaway in co. Is the red light bad? What's this connect to? ? No one? This manual says we need x yest gear, wheres that? Oh, of course, the managers threw it out 10 years ago. Theres still thousands of pounds of shit around here and older equipment than that, but the particular thing you need? gone.

The bell is ringing. Three bells then two. Is that bad?
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The real trigger is telling them how Split Lock Washers are fucking garbage

>well we been usin' em for years and shit didn't fall apart

>Yo anon, pass me the Tongue and Groove Pliers
>Engineer can't grasp efficient workers who actually make things would use short forms or nicknames for shit
Ok great question but its has to do not with your degree or their attitude...but your tone. It takes probably two masters degrees of time 10 years to be a master capenter. It's not something they can show you one afternoon.
I have a masters in mathematics but hated office life and when back to what got me through college. Carpentry and framing. There's something amazing about making things with your hands thats.more satisfying soul wise than any day in the office. To make your.own furniture or a table your family eats from is an amazing feeling. . If you truly want to learn offer a trade, teach them about Engineering and in return ask them to help you and become a journeyman to their trade.

Also spend spare time learning on your own, example..if your interested in carpentry, learn how to properly use tools, never borrow tools get your.own.
the big bad journeymen called me a pussy, if you cant deal with some shit slinging you are not ready for the trade industry, I remember being called a retard by my welding instructor it is part of the deal

any locking junk that isnt a stover nut i avoid at all costs

i don't use washers usually either. unless the hole looks like shit or its rounded out. washers make shit come loose

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So I built a foundry over the weekend and have been having a lot of fun melting down a bunch of aluminum shit I had laying around. I'm going to convert it to propane tomorrow and attempt to start melting iron/steel. The goal with building this foundry was to be able to build my own engine from scratch that I could potentially use for power generation. Nothing fancy, just a one cylinder engine capable of running off any random combustable shit I can get my hands on. I'm trying to design one that I can make about 20-30 horse power with, as I think this should be enough to handle most of my power needs, although, I did just fudge the numbers, assuming I could probably get around 500 watts generated per HP. I'm planning on casting as many parts of the engine as possible, using a lost PLA style cast (I have a couple 3D printers) I'm pretty sure I'll need to fill some of the voids with wax as well. I know I'll need to machine some of the shit (cylinder liner/wall, crank shaft, cam shaft, basically anything that requires tight tolerances and/or a smooth surface). I'm currently fucking around in some CAD software (pic related) trying to figure out how I want it to work. I have a decent understanding of engines in general, although I've not had a lot of experience working with diesel, I understand the concepts behind it and how it works, but I'm not sure what gotchas I might run into. And, before anyone says it, I'll say it myself, this is a pants-on-head retarded idea and I'm probably gonna blow myself up, but I'm not gunning on this working, it's just a project that I'd like to attempt, and if I get it working, maybe I'll have some free power.

TL;DR: OP is a fucknut and wants to build a diesel engine from scratch, advice appreciated.
49 replies omitted. Click here to view.
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I'd suggest starting with the basics - just make an unmetered injector and pump that you can operate using a lever. That way you can work on the most important parts, such as the nozzle and pintle design and figuring out what kind of tolerances, spring stiffness, and chamber volumes you need to inject the right amount of fuel with good pressure and spray pattern.

The engine itself is a comparably simple affair, everyone and their dog knows how a piston engine works and there's plenty of blueprints out there, but I really struggled finding anything useful about old diesel pump/injector systems on the internet. Most sites only show results for common rail systems and a few VE pumps, which is probably beyond the scope of your project at this stage.

I think making a bigger engine would be easier than a small one, too - you look at all the static engines from that era and see most of them are large single-cylinder, low speed beasts that would be relatively straightforward to make for a modern hobbyist.
My only issue with a larger engine is larger casting. I'm going to whip together a setup to take a crucible capable of handling 20kg of aluminum but I'm not sure i can handle much bigger than that. I agree on the injector though, a simple, working design that i can play with and learn on is probably the best approach

Sound about right.
There's like 3 anons itt with a brain.
You want to make 20-30 HP from a single cylinder diesel home cast engine....

A Ford flathead V8 was about 60hp......
Ya. That's right. 60hp from 8 pistons from a company that had more money than you will see in a lifetime.

Your home brew (if it doesn't crack on cooling) might make 2hp. For like an hour.
And it will be glorious. I think you missed the part in the op about not relying on this engine working, and more just being a fun project to fuck around with and learn from. It doesn't bother me that I might not hit the power goal or that the engine may wreck itself after only running a short time, it's all just for fun man.

for the injection pump your best bet is to somehow make a mechanically variable displacement axial piston pump. have your throttle and linkage or cables move the swashplate to stroke the pump for more or less fuel delivery to the injector, and make the injector a cam actuated plunger type injector, like cummins' last system pre common rail. HPT i think it was called. used on N14s and what have you.

reasoning for this is because its really easy to time, just have slots cut in a gear for bolt holes. then you can loosen the bolts and move the gear to advance or retard the timing.

a governor is probably going to be required, but you could try just putting an adjustable poppet in the injector that cracks open to return to the fuel tank. have the spring sit against a set screw that you can tighten or loosen to adjust spring tension and cracking pressure for it to return to tank

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