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File: ZomboDroid 19082019220025.jpg (240 KB, 1728x1152)
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Making a Bluetooth speaker from bookshelf speaker.

female barrel jack
2s battery from laptop

Now I don't know how I'm gonna wire the charging circuit to charge the battery and power the speaker at the same time. Maybe I'll use a diode or something. I'll talk to my old retired electrical engineer pal and see what he thinks.

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I'm looking to make some coconut bowls for my bar, and am wondering what's the best way to darken and finish them so they are OK to put drinks in

I'm hoping to use the bottom half of the coconut as a bowl, and turn the top half into a disk I can use as a stable base

any guidance?
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Woodstain and food safe resin?
thanks for the repplies

Im more interested in how I show the "grain" of the "wood"
my first test found the shell wasn't solid enough to really polish, some parts were kind of grainy and I couldn't buff it at all
Its test an error anon , as said use food safe clear polyureathane
if youre gonna stain it, id use teak oil instead of wood stain as teak oil (assuming its actual teak oil and not stain that has simply been branded as such) is food safe.
It wont darken your bowls a whole lot. Its got more an amber color and it looks nice, but its not very dark. Will still preserve the bowls, which is whats most important
Fuck right off thats poisonners You troll shit

I have a compulsion to make money. I am always buying and selling things. Flipping my stuff for more money. I only keep sentimental things but everything else goes. I feel guilty that I’m selling things i may want some day or that i “should” have an attachment to items. I’m always scheming up ways to make money. Always legal though. What does you guys think?
54 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
So do you ever buy some hot ICO at a garage sale or flea market?
dumb faggot probably doesn't realize that 4chan was /b/ for the longest time.
I have a huge ass box of comic books to sell but haven't had the motivation to post volumes individually.
Only sold 1 so far
>le Edge is stronk in you
>thinking the IRS is going to put someone in a prison for $40,000 a year when you owe less than that.
Come give my ass some better food and shelter than most elderly people get. No really, I dare them and welcome it. Then I won't have to pay while in prison, nor after once they've stripped me from opportunities and have me dealing in cash and check cashers.
>What they don't know won't hurt them... but if they didn't like you for some reason and they suddenly wanted to know, it wouldn't be hard to check your ebay history.
Your first audit (and you will get one solely from the sheer incompetence of the IRS agency) is a fishing expedition. They want to know whether or not you or they fucked up (protip, IRS never admits fault for anything since they are a defacto unconstitutional agency). They will even give you the wrong info to fill out, the wrong people to see, the wrong numbers entirely. Why? Because they are run by the government. Assume everything that the IRS tells you is a lie and make them aware of your situation. Tell them to work with you or lawyer up only if it's a ridiculous amount like something over $50,000. If it's less than $1000 pay them and stfu.
In all honesty the IRS doesn't care for the little fish so much as the genuine scamming/fraud big fish. Those are the tax dodgers they care about, not someone barely managing next to minimum wage. They don't want to see more people go to jail because that would mean they couldn't pay taxes at all and would be a net drain on the system.

How to never pay taxes:
Cash only
Cash checks at customers banks
Don't work as a wagie, do general labor/landscaping/low risk trade jobs for people with virtue
Make less than 20,000-30,000 grand a year (not after taxes obviously)
If it never came by a registered letter then you never got it.
Hide your paper trail
Make as many cash purchases as you can

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What’s the best way to clean and restore the colour on leather watch straps? I have this set of leather straps that came with my watch that originally had a light cognac colour, but have significantly darkened due to sweat and every day use. Is there any way to wash and lighten the colour? What’s the best method?

Pic related, my straps
Some saddle soap followed by conditioner might help them gain some shine. You will probably never get the original color back though, since sweat tends to get into the pores of the leather and turn dark.

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Any fellow britbongs have experience with machine mart? Seems like a less shit option than b&q or similar for buying power tools, (looking for a decent bandsaw). Would rather not spend ~£500 on something that turns out shit.
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Thanks for the advice lads; will give them a try when I get the chance
i find they sell chink shit, its good for diy bits around the house but if you are planning on using it regularly try somewhere else
Go ebay instead
being this timmy

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Hello fellow /diy/abloists. Lookin for a little 1/4 ratchet for whizzing off and on little fasteners in toight spots without fear of over-torking. Any suggestions? Thinking pic-related.
Get a 12V Milwaukee 1/4" ratchet. About the same size as an air ratchet, but lighter and no hose to fight.
this, unless you are running multiple other air tools in your shop, the M12 cordless model is the best option out there. dont even go for the more powerful Fuel variant, the standard model is smaller and has plenty of torque for 1/4" work.


I always had a rubbing noise coming from the rear passenger side. I went to get it inspected at a mechanic and the pads needed replacement. Unfortunately the sound was still there. So I decided to try to figure out what the issue was. Generally it's a seized caliper.
I've replaced the flexible break hose, the entire caliper assembly, greased everything and put it back together and blead the break line. I then did a readjustment to the parking break in case it was causing the issue. Checked to make sure the rotors still spun freely, they did, except for a very slight drag on both wheels in one spot. The passenger side would drag badly before which is why I replaced everything. I went for a short drive and now the it was sticking so bad that the engine actually started to overheat a bit and the pads were burning and there was a definite drag while driving.
I've checked to make sure the break fluid wasn't overfilled and it's actually just barley below max. When driving the break pedal seemed to have quiet a bit more pressure then normal.
What could be causing the breaks to not release? Both sides are as bad now as the passenger side was. I'm at a loss now.
I should say that I went through all of this before with the old caliper before i bought a new one and it wasn't this bad, the rubbing noise was still there but I did a drive for 40 minutes without noticing a problem.
14 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Yea it was the first time I heard of air causing calipers to stick, seemed odd to me.
>Wd40 will also not cause it to stick.
But it's still not recommended to get grease on the pads or rotors right? Which is what break cleaner is for.
I put silicone break grease on the caliper, the slide plates and the tabs on the break pads. Just wanted to make sure they didn't make noise or seize up again shortly. I also added it to the plate on the pads and to the caliper piston.

>Does it actually feel like it's slowing you down or is it mostly a noise?
Before I got the rear breaks done it was mostly noise. But I'm pretty sure the caliper was sticking at the time too because it would intermittently pull to one side when breaking. But after I put the new caliper on the car and readjusted the parking break again there was a definite drag on the car and I could barely get past 60km/h which is when it overheated. I've since redone the pads on the drivers side caliper.
Does a new caliper need a special treatment to break it in? Like fully extending the piston and pushing it back before installing the pads and bleeding the system? It was substantially harder to push the new piston in compared to the old ones.

>Could be as simple as the backing plate contacting a spot on the rotor
That was one of the first things I checked before the break job.
I think I've pretty much isolated it to the parking break shoes on the passenger side. As soon as I removed them the rotor was completely silent when spinning. But why the whole system sized up after I installed a new caliper is what I'm confused about.
I definitely use the parking break enough because the driveway I park on is on a slight incline. But it seems like the cable doesn't retract fully. Or maybe the shoes were misaligned.
I'm going to bleed the system today and see if I can actually drive it.
breaks are what happens if you brakes don't work
at least you're consistent - you got it wrong every time
>>1667172 #
Yea I noticed but kept doing it. Sorry I'll try better.
Finished flushing and bleeding the BRAKE system and it seems to be fixed. The orginal sound I was hearing is gone and the BRAKES seem to be functioning normally now. I need to take it for a longer drive to test for sure.
I don't really have a floor jack that can get the car high enough to check the linkage and the control lever. Do you know where abouts the other moving parts on the parking BRAKE cable would be? I know with throttle cables you can adjust a screw that either shortens or lengthens the cable, do BRAKE cables have the same thing?
I really appreciate the help from everyone. Thank you.
Honestly OP brakes should never be explained over diy but this is 4chan and people here love rekt threads.
Yea fair enough. But I can use a bit of common sense to avoid doing something dumb. Unfortunately after bleeding the breaks and driving a bit more from the last post the damn thing is still locking up. I have given up and need to take it to a mechanic. There's gotta be something wrong with the abs, master cylinder or a plug in the metal brake lines.

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wtf, there's different types of electricity? Explain that shit.
7 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Here's another thing that will blow your mind: only ONE of the two wires in an AC circuit (single phase) swings back and forth. The other stays at 0v.
a chemical reaction produces (and stores) direct current

alternating current is induced by a rotating magnetic field

with that in mind, turning kinetic energy into electricity generally creates an alternating current due to the coils in, say, an alternator being subjected to the north and south poles of a magnet alternately (and preferably 50 to 60 times a second).
most electronics that involve microprocessors rectify the AC locally. Some diodish magic happens that points each pulse in the same direction (google bridge rectifier).
As for electric motors, the part that gets electrified generally comes in pairs. Such things are calibrated so that only one of each pair is energized at a time, alternating between them between 50 and 60 times a second (google commutator).
Not 100% correct mechanical analog. Work=force*distance.
The voltage is cyclically pushing and pulling in the same direction the electrons are flowing. If that is true power is being delivered. An electrician for AC looks at the voltage and current and gets an RMS (think average) value for those two phenomena. Those averages are kind of equivalent to a DC measurement even though the real waveform and electrons are moving back and forth. Things only get complex for ac when you start thinking about the phase shift between the current and voltage.
AC is easy to generate, step up and down in voltage through transformers, is easy to use in motors and heaters. DC is mostly used in small electronic circuits like computers and made from AC where it is needed.

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Does anyone know what the name / type of walls I have in my apartment? Trying to buy the right screws/anchors/drill bits to put in some hooks and that sorta thing. Ideally if I figure out the right way to actually get shit into these walls I want to mount my TV and shelving that won't fall down if you look too hard at it.

The walls are like a flaky concrete. They are really hard and brittle. I tried to drill in a while back with a really crummy drill and the whole thing just crumbled and flaked leaving a bit of a crater. Also I think I hit either metal or brick my drill just wouldn't go any further and the bit was really heating up. Walls are awesome since you don't hear shit but suck for hanging shit.

I'll send some pictures when I get home but figured someone here would know exactly what I'm talking about.
4 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Plaster over Styrofoam. Sorry anon, but your entire house is squeaky as shit.
Woah, I have never seen that styrofoam.

Do regular anchors still work?

Opie, you want some beefy drywall anchors. Go to your local hardware store and they will point you to the right direction. Or better yet, find the studs and use some beefy bolts.
>Plaster over Styrofoam
How would one hang shit like cabinets and TVs on this type of wall? Drywall anchors the only option?

Nah it's not styrofoam - the white shit is hard plaster and the darker stuff is cement I think? Picture might not be the best.

It's all hard shit nothing squishy. That's actually the problem, I try and drill with a shitty bit and the stuff just chips and flakes off.

It's a apartment building - walls are very hard and thick which is awesome for sound. Not so great for hanging stuff. You would definitely break your hand punching this wall.
>masonry under the plaster
You need a hammer drill anon. Sorry to say they're not cheap, but I use mine enough to be worth it

Once you have that, find a box of tapcons that comes with a free masonry bit, then make a hole and screw it in there. 3 or 4 of those should be enough to hold a human body weight

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Budget gpus and cpus (cheap motherboards for the cpu too)
Does anyone even budget pc anymore
wrong board to ask.
1. Wrong board
2. Not worth it's own thread
3. You're a faggot

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Go on pcpartpicker and look at budget builds. Stick with AMD for a cheap yet good CPU. Go with Nvidia (for rn) if you want a GPU but stay away from the RTX shit until it's cheaper. Also theres a youtuber called "Tech Yes City" and he always has some good budget builds. Next time I would go to /g/ and go to a /pcbg/ thread where you can ask about builds. God bless you.
Tinkering with computers are for dyel pussy faggots

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what's the best way to connect these without blowing up the battery?
5 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
It'll make one big spark when you connect it, it seems scary but it's just the input caps charging up.

Those gold stick-outeys are the power input (I think anyway). Just don't hook it up backwards and it should be ok. And don't hook up the battery to the motor outputs.

Don't get the 48V into any
don't get the 48v into any of the wires except the power input. It would probably instantly fry the logic inputs and might fry the motor outputs
>input caps charging up.
I'm just worried there's no power being distributed by the controller after the whole spark thing happened when I connected it to the battery. That's why I'm assuming its fried.

>Those gold stick-outeys are the power input (I think anyway). Just don't hook it up backwards

Well I might have just reverse connected the wires from + to + and - to - which may explain the whole spark thing.
If you reversed the polarity you are fucked.
I imagine they wouldn't be using protective diodes since the bike is using 15A so they would get super hot and waste energy and electronics like that can usually only take couple of volts in reverse tops
That is why you never connect anything to anything with power on. YOu always first connect the wires then check them 10 times and then connect the power source
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>Definitely not by holding one in one hand and the other in the other and completing the circuit

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They told me hydrogen and oxygen combine to make water but when I tried it I got fire instead.

I have hydrogen mixed with air, I want to compress and store the hydrogen. How do I do it without blowing myself up?
How to separate hydrogen from air/oxygen?
6 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
>They told me hydrogen and oxygen combine to make water but when I tried it I got fire instead
you can't make this shit up
>you can't make this shit up
OP did.
guessing the best, and safest solution would be to just actively use it, get a tub, put a bucket and fill the tub with water, fully submerge the bucket in the water while its upside down, pipe the hydrogen to go below the bucket so it keeps it scooped up underneath, hook it up to a gas stove, or a generator connected to a battery
>but when I tried it I got fire instead
That's how you get water from H2 + O2
Nah, it's been well known for at least a decade that water is a major byproduct of fire. OP probably just keeps up with the literature.

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Why do people make faggy boring houses when you could make something like this?
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>It took fucking WEEKS
So? You for paid for that time didn't you? Or did you bid it like a normal house thinking it would only take slightly longer?
> open fire inside + straw roof
Perfectly safe if you live somewhere that is more or less free of dry spells, a weekly rain or snow is plenty, wet thatch is near impossible to start on fire without the help of gas or the like. The tightly packed inner portion of the thatch takes a long time to dry well enough to burn and there is little oxygen in there to feed the fire anyways. Once saw a thatched roof catch fire, whole roof was burning in just seconds but it extinguished itself once that dry outer layer burned off leaving the roof perfectly intact, just a tad thinner.
>Faggy boring houses
>Posts a faggy boring house
boring faggy houses are cheap to commission and easy to bring into compliance with local regs

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Gents, I've been making guitar pedals for the past few years in my spare time and they've been for myself and my friends in local bands. Recently, I've been asked to make 5 of one model and I've been thinking about making a batch of 20-30 instead since then it would be cheaper for me to order parts and I could sell the rest online. That would also force me to make them more professional looking.

While I have been able to source metal cases that would be perfect for the pedal, I'm not sure how to proceed with the paint. I prefer powder coating so I can easily find a guy to powder coat cases.

Now, I'd like to paint on a detailed logo with letters and some graphics. Kinda like pic related. It has to look sharp and it has to be durable. I can't use vinyl because that peels off and looks horrible when it's stepped on for a while or abused/thrown around the bags.

I've looked into stenciling (cut out a reverse stencil from vinyl, spray paint over it and then remove the stencil) but I have a feeling that lines will not look sharp at all and I don't even know how to make stencils.

Anyone have some ideas on how to paint in a logo and legends onto a powder coated surface? Thanks!
14 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I've done the method you mentioned with a vinyl cutout using a vinyl cutter. The lines are super sharp but the painted area is raised so you need to clear coat over that to smooth the transition to your graphics. Otherwise you can run your finger over it and feel a hard edge.
>Silkscreen has limitations - you can't have things like the interior triangle of a capital A.
That's a STENCIL
Screen printing can do anything up to and including photographs.
(the screen is what holds the triangle in place)
After watching few YT vids on stenciling, I can't stop but think that this is a massive time wasting process. After cutting out all the stencils, you have to precisely place them onto the metal case and then you can paint. And you have to do that for each case, it becomes a massive time sink. For me to do 30 of them would probably take more than 30 hours. Just imagine lifting each "hole" of a letter and properly placing it.
I wouldn't be making even minimum wage with this process.
Find yourself that powder coating guy of your dreams and ask him. Always ask the manufacturer/pro installers. Including the powder coating product manufacturer. Maybe even try that pedal company.

You do a graffiti style thing where you have multiple stencils. One that is a big cutout doing as much as possible ( but the letters might be connected by a line), you paint that, then have another that covers other parts (the lines between the letters) and you paint over that and do that for as many as you need. You just make a jig type thing so each stencil layer is all lined up.

I mean yeah this is work and the easiest thing is to have the lettering/logo connected so you only have one layer.

Easiest is going to be water slide decals that you use a clear gloss with to make them blend with the case better and stay on permanently.

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my cv axle boots are about to rip. they have those cracks all the way around.
what can i do to extend their life? im too lazy to pull everything part and replace them.
11 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
Wetsuit glue works well, too.
You can't. And don't let them split or your joints will get fucked in no time.

Get off your arse and do it properly.
flex seal obviously
I bought some ultra black rtv. Gonna clean it real good and fill the cracks
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Pic related would like a word with you

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