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My belt is squealing. When I spray it with belt conditioner the noise will instantly stop but then the noise starts again after a very short amount of time. Visually the belt is in great shape. Is there anything else to try before replacing the belt? I don’t think I can tighten it as the car has an auto tension pulley?
29 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Nowadays there's no reason to splice. Most the manufacturers sell what they call T harness's that essentially you unplug your cars harness and plug it into the T harness then plug that back into where the original harness was. Only bummer is they cost extra through the manufacturer directly and take a bit to ship in. Well worth it for the time and energy savings of splicing though

>Recommendations must be shills.
This right here. Remove belt and hand spin all the pulleys youll know which one is fucked right away
>[citation needed]
ASE regs

you don't spray shit on the belt faggot.
If you think it's ok to do, then you're part of the reason the used car market is garbage.
>you don't spray shit on the belt faggot.
>If you think it's ok to do, then you're part of the reason the used car market is garbage.

read it again. read real slow, and use your lips to sound out the words. or find an adult to read it to you and explain what it says.

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Is it possible? Say you have a 3d printer and nothing else.
>what would be the cheapest way of going at it
>how good would the results be
>how much would you have to pay for the plastic
>what would be the easiest way of doing the molds (ceramic or epoxy)
I thought about doing it with a glue gun and a straight 3d printed inverse, but that felt too ghetto even for my tastes.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>How would I do that?
get a drill press steel tube with an endcap and some sort of plug, a blowtorch and something to make the mold with.
then shape the plug so it fits precisely in the tube with one end and so the other end fits in the drill chuck. this could be done without the chuck, but it might not go as smooth. Then drill a small hole in the endcap and put it on the lower side of the tube, this is where the plastic will come out. could also screw in an old printer nozle if u already have a 3d pritner.
then put the plastic in the tube, heat it up and press it down so it will flow in the mold.
>Can I get this as a private individual without buying tons and tons of plastic?
old 3d printed parts, separate garbage or just use china printer filement
o and also, you could just use the extruder and hotend of a printer
I would get a lee lead pour pot and digital controller.

Or diy a round coul and insulate the shit out of it with kaowool. Less torch nonsense and better control. But good call anon. I've looked into this before
>>what would be the cheapest way of going at it
Harbor freight hydraulic press or arbor press, cartridge heaters, temperature controller, a metal tube, a metal plunger, a vice, and a mold.

Even the one pictured is basically just those parts. What you will run into is that the cubic volume of your mold will be directly limited by the press tonnage rating of the arbor or hydraulic bottle jack. So the variety of parts you can produce will be pretty limited to small things. Most custom lego parts and fishing lures are made with desktop injection-molding.

I research it for a while but quickly realized that most of the parts of my product are just too large to be compatible.
Printer hotends are usually designed to deal with extremely small amounts of plastic though, they've got like 30W heater cartridges, that'll only be enough for the smallest of molds and it'll take a long time to get the plastic molten for the next injection.
I'm fairly sure a bit more purpose built equipment is still cheap as hell when bought from China.

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Are trades worth it? They completely ruin your health.
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And honestly It very well could have been the same bald suit weilding motherfucker. He was weird as fuck.

Fucking Germans. I never knew his name. I just referred to him as von scheffel to the other people and they knew who I was talking about.
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>trades ruin your health
1. Its not 1918
2. How are trades any worse than sitting all day under florescent bulbs breathing sick building air staring at a screen while it eats away at your retina?
I think you've got your priorities out of order, lad. The grass isn't always greener, I blame your father for not teaching you this.
>there’s this cool thing called OSHA
lololololololololol they get duped all the fucking time by the higherups that their company is safe when in reality they don't even have proper safety equipment for their workers. OSHA won't do shit.
If your company is actively lying to health and safety officers to put you at risk, collect some evidence and sue the living shit out of them and never have to work again

Otherwise know and understand the safety regs and gear, don't do shit you know isn't safe just because everyone else is fine gambling their health and you can get by with no more than general wear and tear.

Your safety is your own responsibility first and foremost. OSHA isn't going to keep you from sticking your hand in the lathe, but it does force your employer to provide you the ability to protect yourself, and gives you a path to take if they aren't.
But at the end of the day, if you don't feel that your boss cares about your safety, change jobs.

Well i heard stories from my bro about them using a lathe to turn some monsterous shit. After an hour the boss asked why he wasnt cutting and he said it wasnt up to speed.

They cleared the entire building with pay because if that fucker came off it would be a bad deal. Only the operator and boss stayed. I wish i had pics. The fucker made a buzzing noise it was moving so fast

Sorry I'm bothering you but /sci/ is full of autists.
>want to turn a 30,000 gallon propane tank into a submarine
>positive max pressure is 250psi (17atm)
So filling it up with compressed air at 250psi would theoretically imply the submarine could operate at depths of 170m and beyond? Or how does that work?
78 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
Lol, he had ballast tabks and everything set up.

Still hoping it wasnt just troll post
He was summoned by this Anon I think >>1510560, but he hasn't shown up.
So, it is just an unpressurized sub then. Meaning you'd need to come back up slowly to decompress your blood and all that to prevent the bends. Also calculate your air mix and pressure involved.

The max pressure a human can withstand is determined by the oxygen content of the air. Normal air will allow you to withstand about 2-2.5 bar I think. 17atm is like 17.2bar I think. You'll need to get the air mix correct or die. I think people can withstand about 70atm/bar before you can't just mix the air correctly and have it work.
>one section later being found 10 metres (30 ft) vertically above the exterior pressure door.

Instant human extrusion.
It is good memes like this that make /diy/ so wholesome.

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Anyone grind their chainsaw chains?

I built a portable sawmill. But it was too stressful for the chainsaw. Research told me that I need a rip chain to cut wood length wise (for boards, smoothly).

Any tips on how to grind the 10 degrees with only a disc grinder? I only have a dollar store protractor to eyeball the angles. Or will the angle deviations from eyeballing it screw up the whole thing?
6 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>saws should have these options
all saws have that option - you get a rip chain for the saw
You buy a new chain every time one gets dull?
10 minutes and the correct file is all you need for a sharp chain.
You’re saying you can change the angles with a file efficiently?
I was not saying to buy instead of sharpen, I was saying buy instead of altering.
What happens when Op wants to take the saw off the mill and use it normally? I’d say it’s good to have some of each type.
I’m sorry, I must have misunderstood when you posted,

>>I just buy a new blade once it starts cutting slowly.
Get a proper chainsaw sharpener or file with jig you made and the correct chains for the job you are doing.

>change the angle

Don't do that. Get the proper chain and do proper maintenance on it as needed.

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Get on there, you son of a bitch.

>little round thing
The video is literally longer than the service life of those fucking drums.
You are pressing too hard or are using them on the wrong type of material and should use a burr instead. It is a common mistake to press harder when sanding. Instead, press lighter and allow the grit to do the work. Otherwise, you end up breaking the grit off in short order. Knowing when to not use sanding and instead to use a burr is also important.

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Hello, I need help, bros.
I have to make a joke-ish gift for a friend
The "big meme" is that he spend 500+ bucks on rgb ram...
I have this old stick of ddr2 ram that i want to turn into cool joke-gift
Any ideas?
P. S. Im average-ish in soldering and electronics
Sharpie RGB over it and it's done
YEAHH.... No..
Hot glue it to that triangle and make a square.
Solder random LED's all over it
Hot glue an old case fan to it
Add a few wires for remote LED's
just put it in an empty box that once contained $500+ worth of ram sticks
solder random wires and LED's with a small button battery to power the LED's
add a couple heat sinks for good measure

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How do you learn to make that loopy Victorian style. I have chairs with it they still use it for fences and all sorts of stuff.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I BUILD BOAT DOCKS dipwad, are you thick?
>Real men build
>boat docks Princess
what did anon mean by this?
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This is "/diy/ - Do It Yourself" not, "/difop/ - Do It For Other People."

What do you wish to make it for? You have stained glass in your image and mention chairs and fences in your post. The chairs and fence normally use wrought iron which you can make via forging or just with a torch, vice, hammer, steel plate, and some tongs if you are on sight making something/repairing something and it isn't very thick metal. However, some things are not wrought iron and are instead cast iron. I wouldn't use cast iron for objects like chairs that need to take stresses, but for a fence it is quite fine. For the stained glass they use something called, "came strips" for "came glasswork." Came are strips of metal that are shaped like an "H" or "U" on their cross section so that the glass can fit into. Those are usually softer metals that are easier to bend and shape.

As for the special designs, only a few designs are considered "Victorian". So you'll need to google up specifics on what you want for the actual artistic style of that nature.
Mostly trying to learn to draw the style so i can use it for other projects later.
looking to see if theres any "Rules" or "Tricks" to using these same symbols over and over again but incorporating them in new ways that can just sort of fill a space with that aesthetic like they used to do on everything back then.
The curve angles and organic nature of it seem to be the only constant. There's always something that looks like a pot of plants/wheat/fleur de lis and everything else seems to be, "greeble," with similar curves. If you make the greeble curves into sharper angles & lines you end up with art deco patterning.

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I'm about 200lbs, and I'll be climbing 10ft up up to ladder to paint the borders of the walls. I'll have someone to hold it.

Pic related is the bottom of the ladder.
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Yep it's pretty safe

can't you be arrested for using that ladder? or is that bongs only
turn it over, if other ends as bad as pic then chunk it n get safe one. 200 lb will hurt real bad if hit ground. insurance paid up?
Yeah its grand
You're thinking of wheelbarrows.

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I don't have much experience with mechanics, (but a bit of theoretical basis) and I want to construct things.

For small constructions, like a testbench setup or a small guide rail, what kind of construction can you implement for wheels? I've seen stuff like a wheel, a sleeve bearing and a shoulder bolt as an axis. I've also seen dowel pins used as axis. What other simple constructions make are often used for small solid wheel/rollers?
Linear motion. Google it.

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Here's the deal

I am mounting a 2x4 onto a brick wall so i can create a mantle over my fireplace. I drilled 3/4" holes for the butterfly toggle bolt. Turns out there's foam insulation board behind the brick.

How do i widen the hole behind the brick so the toggle bolt activates?

Sketch is not accurate because the hole in the wood is only 1/4" but you get the idea.
6 replies and 3 images omitted. Click here to view.
If only they made masonry screws.
i had already drilled the 3/4" holes. i would need four new 1/2" holes. in hindsight, i should have used that, but it is what it is.
Those are for solid concrete. Bricks typically have voids. A sleeved anchor is usually used in such cases.
Oh really!
Are you dumb?

Taken from tap on website

Tapcon® is the #1 recognized screw anchor brand in the industry. And their unmatched performance in concrete, block and brick applications.

>>brick applications

Picture related.
Most def for brick

Title says it all. I'm grinding my teeth in my sleep, but I'm not paying big cash for a fucking mold. I was thinking of carving out a wooden piece that would fit snugly on the 4 front teeth, but what if I swallow it and die?

All thoughts and replies appreciated.
33 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
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Here's a tip.
Look up what happens to people who use improperly sized braces.
Spoiler: It fucks their teeth up, badly.
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Why do pissfags have to have such comfy artstyles damnit?
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As someone who has had bruxism since before I had teeth and has had free dental and medical care for the past 20 years I feel qualified to answer any questions.

Soft night guards are just a slightly softer version of a sports mouth guard. They work but be prepared to go through them eventually. If they start cracking or getting holes then get rid of it and buy a new one. Be sure to boil it and form it to your teeth as the directions say too. Also brush it every night. Mold and shit will start growing if you dont.

Hard night guards are worth the trouble if you dont have to pay for them. They do get a little yellow after a few years but they dont break very easily and they are custom formed to your top teeth with hand ground dents in the bottom for your bottom teeth to lock into at night.

Be prepared to drool alot and have a hard time getting to sleep for awhile until your mouth gets used to it. It took me about a week with a hard guard and almost a month with soft guards till I could get to sleep easily and not wake up to a wet pillow.

Dont do it. The clone a willy mold material is plaster of paris and will stick to your teeth making it impossible to get out. The latex material for the dick takes >12 hours to dry. Unless you want to keep it in your mouth for half a day, dont bother.

Fall out ... funny. OP clenches his teeth and grinds at night and even so, you are supposed to form the mouth guard to your teeth so it gets a small amount of suction when you put it in.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
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Unless OP is missing teeth AND using a blank unformed mouth guard it wont shift his teeth.

Braces are made to exert a constant pressure to move teeth. A night guard absorbs the nighttime pressure. Any possible damage a mouth guard could cause is mitigated by the fact that he wont be GRINDING HIS FUCKING TEETH DOWN TO BARE NERVES.
Bottom teeth selfie very related.
See a psychiatrist. You have issues you need to resolve. Good luck!

I have a setup just like this. Three outdoor lights on my house around the garage. They are all controlled by one switch. I want to change that switch out and put a timer in there. Preferably a WiFi enabled deal. So I don't have to remember to turn the fucking lights off every day. What's a product I can use to acheive this?
14 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Google for wifi controlled light switch

Make sure it is non-dimming. Lasts longer.
Only drawback is the switch has to be powered. i.e. power runs to the switch and then the lights.

That or >>1513387

I have home automation using the Wink hub. But my yard light has one of these >>1513357
in it. Works fine.
im surprised OP dodnt ask how to control these lights with a fucking arduino or raspberry pi. they seem to be the go to meme solution for everything on /diy/ lately
Connect them to pick related and use an app to control them via your home router.
You can just change out the light switch for one of these.
That's exactly what I did.

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Are there any good resources on going back to pre-plastics? I look up prepping, or primitive tech, or even just natural resources (e.g. log cabins), and 99% of all channels or websites use mostly modern tech. I don't want to build a plastic pre-fab yurt. I don't want to make primitive wine with a fucking food processor. I don't want to use a chainsaw and electric drill for a log cabin, using pre-milled lumber from the hardware store. You get my drift.

Any suggestions? Pic related.
21 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
try finding some archaeology books, I don't have any specifics for you but that would be the place to look for in depth descriptions of how things were actually made in early cultures
Check your local library.
In reality you need to preserve a lot of modcons if you want to drop fossil hydrocarbons entirely.
So my advice is to look at ways to be in line with nature, armed with modern knowledge, while still being rigorous in your denial of modcons you can't have in a sustainable way.
The reason being that denying the labor saving tech will not advance your understanding of how to proceed, you're effectively larping, even if you can gain interesting sociological data from the experiment.
Instead, use a combination. Solar water heating and a ram pump, instead of a gas boiler and a sump. Canning in glass, pottery and silicone, not Tupperware and baggies. Hunt your own meat, make your own rounds, sell your excess and use modern tools to earn a living off your niche lifestyle. Drop the smartphone, the jetset life, the car and the cable tv. Don't drop the insulin, the rocket stove, the lamp.
>>1513893 (cunt.)
Many conflate modern living as a whole with the end of our civilization, and while I'm occasionally inclined to agree, there is a fallacy in not addressing the individual compound causes that make such a short logical chain reasonably plausible.
Population growth and the frantic need for consumerism can be partly explained by sudden drops in mortality, which may be explained by new tech, eg. new vaccines, sanitation, modes of transport, degree of employment in new sectors etc.
However, despite the engine of capitalism being behind all this, the driver is not the ghost of Adam Smith, nor the spook of John Locke, nor is John Stuart Mill at the wheel of consumerism. Instead your average upper middle class person, playing with their individual portfolio of stocks and property, paving the way for the super rich individuals and multicorps to harvest a predictably sensitive market, increasing the effect ever more.
It's the latter form of capitalism which is dangerous. Not free enterprise and trade for money, competition and a fair days work as such. Many Americans especially seem to make no conscious distinction between the two.
Well said, Anon.

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Hey /diy/, first time posting here but comfy board you've got for yourselves.
I'm working on making board games. My goal is to have a selection of fun games with more depth than something like monopoly, but with a focus on accessibility. I want you to be able to play them with anyone. I intend to upload these games as .pdf files somewhere, so that there's no barrier for entry for cost.

With that in mind, has anyone else made games before? I've got a ruleset worked out for the first one but I'm not sure where to go from here. What would be the cheapest way to get a testable version of it going, keeping in mind I'd rather not write out 400 odd cards by hand? Is there any good rules of thumb to follow regarding making a rule set? Just any advice people could give me regarding this project would be nice, as I'm totally new to it.

Thanks for your time
5 replies omitted. Click here to view.
No idea but I'd be happy to help if you descide to build any investing games. An investing mmo with open trade markets and trade between players is my dream.
/tg/ has a general for this, you may find what you seek there
how much are you investing op or is this a hobby do it as cheaper as you can project?

What was it for?
You can use d&d spell card generators to make mock-up cards

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