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Some time ago I tried an experiment, to see if my regular office chair with generic tilt control would feel better if I locked it at a permanent 110-120ish degree angle, so I stuck a couple bolts in the mechanism, went full retard with hot glue to keep them in place, and for a while it worked and it totally feels way better than having the chair at 90°. Due to the nature of the mechanism the bolts are eventually prone to slip out, not immediately though (last time took weeks).
Do you think there's any way to make this system permanent?
>can't you just lock it?
No, usually reclining chairs are fully designed for that, with generic chairs you can only lock them in place, tilt them without locking them, and adjust the amount of tilt you want.
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You can also try cutting a notch in the side plate so the bolt doesn't want to slip out, but then you may have to go up a bolt size to get the same height.
if you have even a rudimentary system of drilling you can place a second hole for the tilt lock at the desired position.
Cut out a wooden wedge and glue it in place. Sould be sufficient for this application.
Use this instead of hot glue. They'll never come out again.
Seconding this, use a generous amount and it will be permanent

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Not sure if this is the right board to post this on.

Does anyone have a link to buy gas cans WITHOUT this failed "safety" contraption on it?

More gas gets spilled with this than it ever did before. I saw they were selling the blue kerosene cans w/o the safety cap on them a few years ago but even they have been "upgraded" now.
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EPA is objective and know exactly what they are doing, they just dont care about the repercussions its laws will have on companies selling a product.
Its a little different than ignorant lawmakers making laws because of lawsuits.
Didn't they turn a river orange not that long ago?
They don't know a fuck what they are doing. Freons 99.9 leak due to shitty joint, and their laws don't help much. Shit was leaking, it is still leaking.
I was gonna say put an order into either princess auto (Canada's harbour freight) or Canadian Tire but neither of them seem to ship to the USA. So if you're close to the border hop over and buy a dozen or so and suffer no longer. Or see if you can put an order through Scepter, that company makes non gimped jerry cans again not sure if they'll ship south.
Right, making laws requiring said leaks to be found and steering the US away from refrigerants that, if they leak, either deplete the ozone or contribute to greenhouse effect isn't helping.

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oes anyone know how to fix sideview mirror moldings? My 95 SC300's just got wrecked...
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use a dremel to square it up
3d print as close as you can a piece to fit into the new squared up hole
filler and paint

or at least that's what I do
They unbolt from
The inside of the car. You get another one at the junkyard
bro that's a 95 sc300. it's a classic. you don't find them in the junk yard. your disrespect should be a bannable offense.
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>95 sc300
everything lands in junkyard, eventually

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i make knives and wish i found the hobby sooner

i remember thinking "making knives sounds boring and gay"

after i made my first knife i pretty well havent stopped
I still don't know what that last one is.
Is it supposed to be a kind of hydraulic wrench?
Do you have a video of it working?
Acetylene torch.
I wonder if OP would be willing to take apart his PM lathe and look at the cross-slide for us?

I would be willing to bet $5 it looks better than my Grizzly one.
Damn I didn’t think the duty cycle would be that low. A leaky truck will be running like 50% even in highway driving and I have never had issues besides the leaks.

They gotta be pretty beefy though compared to the consumer compressor motors and pumps. Even on 15+ year old trucks, I have never had problems with the actual compressor, it’s always valves and air lines and brake chambers.

I mean this style that goes under cars.
The way it works is, it logs its location via GPS, every <insert time interval here> and stores that data on a hard drive.
After you retrieve the device and plug the hard drive in the computer you get the list of all locations logged.
The entire device is in a plastic box, that connects to the undersize of a car via strong magnet.
Can you make one yourself?
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That's electronic.
>Can you make one yourself?

Get in line or get an original thought there's 100s of those on eBay.

Lol op you dipshit, this isn't a board to talk about doing things yourself
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OP, you are obviously severely retarded and do not posses the capacity to construct the device in question.

Otherwise it's trivial and there are many similar hobby projects online, especially for APRS.

best way to make a shortwave radiio antenna thread?
pic related
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rx or tx, tard..

If rx only, PA0RDT/RA0SMS will work great for anything from VLF to 20m.

pic related

very easy to make, takes no space
Wtf am I looking at
Are those diodes supposed to be the antenna?
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>The transistors are protected against excessive input voltage surges by integrated back-to-back diodes between gates and source
They're diodes dude

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ok i figuered it is time again for a knife making general

show your forges, anvils, rigs, grinders, sanders , projects, tools and all related to knifemaking!
ask questions, and help anons to improve their work.
show your stuff.
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You need a belt sander to make a full length bevel with a shallow angle, the radius of common bench grinders is too small. If you use a bench grinder the bevel will stop before reaching the back of the blade.
>how do I polish knives?
This guy >>1585354 used a sanding block for metal, but if you already have a belt sander you can switch the grit with very little investment.
>or should I try making the thing smaller to contain more heat

make it bigger.

there's a principle known as "thermal mass".

lets put it this way - you're forging a needle, and you're forging a sword. both are, for simplicity, 1000 degrees. the needle has very little volume, so through it heats up rapidly, it also cools rapidly. the swordblade takes longer, but it also holds that heat longer. So you might get one smack with a hammer on the needle, you get ten on the blade, even though they're the same temperature.

so, if your thermal mass is falling away, consider working a thicker stock for a little while. you can also warm the surface of the anvil with a block that's preheated, just so its not drawing out all the heat rapidly - just get it till its uncomfortably hot.
I actually meant the forge space but that's a great idea. Unfortunately the "anvil" is a 400 pound I beam so getting it warmed up might be pretty tough. My setup is outside though so I'll try painting as much of it as I can black and have the sun help me out.
Anyone have a clue how the silver banding is attached to the sheath? Riveted at the seam of the sheath perhaps?

possibly has a rib or another layer with holes, silver soldered on the underside of the band that is sewed on from the inside

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Alright ma dudes, could you tell me what kind of wood is that ?
Btw I have no phisical access to this stack.
Looks like knotty pine
Thanks, I guess it's not worth the price. Dude wanted 10$ (roughly) for this.
For random lengths of used wood of unknown species? It looks like it had a round over cut into one corner too. Laugh in his face and offer to take it off his hands for free so he doesn't fill up his garbage can.

I recently replaced an old leaking electric water heater with a new one of similar model.
Since then I hear random knocking (just a single knock each time), as much as once or twice an hour, coming from the wall adjacent to the tank closet as well as from the walls with faucets nearest to the tank.

I don't suspect a water hammer or sediment buildup, because it's a new clean tank, and the knocking is random throughout the day. Just to be sure I did drain the lines and flushed several gallons out of the tank though, which made no difference.

I don't think it's the cause of the noise but there is a very small leak in the old cold water shutoff valve above the tank. I've been planning on replacing the valve with a new one but it literally evaporates as fast as it leaks so it hasn't been a high priority.

I'm guessing the noise is from heat causing the tank/pipes to expand, but I can't find any good information linking a single knock noise to that sort of issue.
Additionally the two previous water heaters never made any noises, and the 16 year old house has never had an expansion tank installed so I'm unsure if I even need one.

tl;dr could thermal expansion cause a random single knock noise, and is there an easy way to determine whether or not I need an expansion tank?
4 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
>I don't suspect a water hammer or sediment buildup, because it's a new clean tank, and the knocking is random throughout the day. Just to be sure I did drain the lines and flushed several gallons out of the tank though, which made no difference.
>I don't think it's the cause of the noise but there is a very small leak in the old cold water shutoff valve above the tank. I've been planning on replacing the valve with a new one but it literally evaporates as fast as it leaks so it hasn't been a high priority.
None of that is reason to not suspect it's a water hammer, it's pretty common to get some air trapped in a new system and a leak can cause air to get in where it shouldn't, and an air bubble somewhere will happily create a water hammer.
How does air trapped in a water line create water hammer when no fixtures are running?
I had one toilet that I was expecting to have to put a new fill kit in soon anyway so I just went ahead and did that now. The other two have already been replaced in the last couple years. I don't think any of them have been running at all, but we'll see if that makes any difference.

Don't you need a valve opening and closing somewhere for a water hammer though?
Either way I'm gonna go ahead and replace that leaky valve and try to un-kink or replace those lines this coming week when the weather improves.
You can get a knocking noise from just the air going through the pipes, although yeah that's a fair point, though I've heard water hammers going off a while after a fixture's been turned off in places with things like a gravity fed immersion heater because you get the hot water tank filling up followed by the other tank, and that can take a fair while. Also sometimes it's not realizing someone flushed the toilet or turned the washing machine on or whatever. Also less so leaks, but that can be a thing too.

Anyway, I'd be really amazed if it is thermal expansion, my money would be on vermin/animals before that to be quite honest.
Plumber here, it’s completely possible the pipe is just hitting something. Like a duct or conduit. Shake it and try to recreate the noise

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How do you build a wall over uneven concrete? I'm too lazy to dig it up and I couldn't brake a hole though it to put a fence post
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Just build upwards and flip it over when you're done
upwards usually... thats laughing kinda funny. for length of wall, form shallow footing and pour LEVEL with epoxy grout and trowel smooth. Best if anchor bolts can be provided in bearing surface drill at 12" to 16" intervals along length, if wall width is over 12" wide suggest to double row of anchor bolt's. if footing is more than 3" thick provide #4 bar to reinforce length. let footing cure per directions then strip forms....wallah a level surface upon which you build wall on Upwards, usually..
For block walls you just use the mortar to level if it is a slight grade.

If anything significant we would box and cast a level foundation and do some step downs if it is that far of a run.

Gotta load the wall? Then start digging.
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More of a drop-in kind of guy.
Nail shooter and wood rated ground contact. Or some wedge anchors
Just fix the first lumber to the concrete and frame it out.

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I have almost no do it yourself skills whatsoever, I can hardly change a light bulb a tleast. Do any of you people know of any books that can teach me life skills such as using my own two hands to build things or fix things? Do such books exist?
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If you want to improve your lack of practical ability you have to start actually doing things, the mindset of 'finding a book' is part of the reason why you are where you are with this situation.

There are DIY books out there but it's a market full of more meme coffee table trash then quality content.

A good start is to head down your local home improvement store and find a built-your-own kit for something small like a bird house or letter box. Don't rush it.

Over time you'll build up tools. I found a good approach when starting out was to buy a cheap basic tool initially and upgrade if it breaks. That avoids wasting money on premium tools that won't get used much.
Like alot other anons said, start building something small. Reading will get you no practical skills.

Just start with a small project, do some basic joints on a few test pieces or whatever stuff you want to do. The first steps are the hardest and disappointing ones but thats how everyone starts.
Step one: find a broken thing to fix or a job to do

Step two: google how to do it

Step three: do it

Don't make it so complicated
>I have almost no do it yourself skills whatsoever, I can hardly change a light bulb a tleast.

I dont want to sound like a douche, but how does that happen? I know many people IRL like that, how were you raised? father figures? urbanite or village?

here is your answer >>1593710
+dont be afraid to make (small) mistakes

They're practical skills, you don't learn them by reading. Reading is for the people who already know their craft to pick up new tricks, not for newbies learning the basics. Any book aimed towards beginners is a money grab.

First step is to find a mentor to help you get the basic muscle memory skills that /diy/ takes for granted and doesn't even think about anymore, like how to turn a screwdriver quickly or how to properly swing a hammer so you won't miss. Working in a trade is the best way to do it since that's 8 paid hours of practice a day, but if a career switch isn't practical for you, then find someone who's building something and offer to help them out in your free time so you can learn.
(If it is in the cards, then the world's your oyster as long as you actually want to learn and are willing to work hard for it. Start as a Gofer and learn everything you can, you'll figure out where to go from there.)

Even the most mundane possible shit they could ask you to do, like running to grab a tool, helps you learn the tool. Plus maybe you could get some free meals out of it or whatever, I don't know.

After you've got a decent handle on the absolute basics, then it's a good idea to try things like >>1593710. Otherwise you're going to be fucking around with no idea what you're doing or why it's going wrong, get frustrated and quit.

Physical shit is gratifying, but often frustrating and exhausting, so make sure you're going after something you actually find interesting.

t. office worker spawn turned tradesman

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I want to buy a USB vga output for my tablet because it has no HDMI on it's own.

In order to prevent the tablet from frying, battery explosion, etc, can I route the two outermost power pins (1&4) of usb to an external power and connect only the two data pins (2&3) to the tablet? Will it work like this? 1 female usb to connect the vga adapter, 1 male with pins 2&3 and 1 male that goes into a usb wall charger with pins 1&4 connected.
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Look at the USB ports and if any of them have a little lightning icon on them then it's a high power output port.

But you are overthinking this if it's a mainstream brand and made in the last 10 years.
>But you are overthinking this if it's a mainstream brand and made in the last 10 years.
Oh boy, it's a premium Chinese tablet. Too expensive for me to risk damaging it.

>Also why are you getting a VGA output card if you want HDMI?
There are no usb hdmi outputs, only vga.
Something like that.

>A better option is just to but a cheap powered USB hub.
As a /csg/ veteran I know these might cause a house fire faster than any diy I could make.
this is windows tablet, r-right?
usb - vga will depend on drivers to be functional, its only gonna work 7 / 8 / 10 (maybe). Android, you'd need to check if tablet supports MHL or screencasting.
>How would that look in a simple ms paint schematic/drawing?
No even gonna bother with paint

Imagine opening a USB cable.
Leave Green/White alone.
Connect negative of battery to black (black must still be connected between wire ends)
Cut red wire. Tape/whatever the red wire that goes to tablet. Connect positive of batter to red wire that goes to VGA thingy.
Ur just dumb. There are USB to hdmi converters. But if you think ull have the driver for it in a tablet bend over bby.
You're even dumber assuming color codes for any cable. Maybe reference your dumb pic?

But this thread is dumb af for worrying about power in such a misguided, poorly communicated project.

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Anyone worked as a satellite tech for dish or one of their contractors? What was the job like?
No, but I'm a field tech for a cable company
Everything I have heard is horror stories.. Stay away from any tv services/internet instal companies. Read up online about how shit the jobs are
Yea ive read em. Not many good things to be said. But a jobs a jobs and the money isnt bad

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I am thinking of getting a hitachi cr10j
It is either this or dwe7480 or SKILSAW SPT70WT-01

Hitachi comes with the stand, and has an electric break. Dewalt has a better rivet knife release. Skil-saw has a 3 1/2' cut, plus worm-drive.

Both hitachi, and dewalt have rack and pinon fences, unsure why people says dewalt's is better. skill saw has fence like rack and pinon without the pinions, and basically slides.

look for help, cannot decide.
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How precise is that saw? I've been eyeballing it as a cheap step into the hobby but am worried about getting accurate cuts (I know I want to make dinner tables, I love them so much)
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I like the fence, it's tight when I lock it down. As far as the accuracy, i haven't really measured it with a precision tool.
But it cuts straight enough to do what I need it to do.
The only bad thing about the saw, is when dust gets inside of the track for the fence. It will kinda of bind. I blow air through it, and clean it out easily
What have you built with it? You mentioned general stuff but I'd love to see what youve churned out
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I use it mainly for flooring. then for general construction renovating bathrooms.
Looks like it does the job

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Any suggestions on how to rain-proof a pair of speakers? I'd like to keep them out on the balcony.
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>having neighbors
Wrap them in a trashbag Mr.TrailerTrash
Dip in clearcoat ?
buy outdoor speakers idiot. or just put them up high where they won't get too wet

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