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File: 3dba7697c6.png (172 KB, 300x348)
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I don't know if this thread should be more appropiate on /toy/ but here it goes:

Is pic related a good start for hobby machining or should I go directly for its metalic version ?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
What size of things do you want to make? Just get a big one because you'll eventually want a engine lathe anyway.
It would be for model engines, toys and figurines. Also, I dont have the space for serious lathes.

Aren't those small professional watchmakers lathes a bit too messy to install ? Also, I would like to have the OP pic or its metalic version because it has all main types of machine tools
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I've heard good things about the Sherline lathe if you want something small.
I got this. It's no good as a lathe as it bends to much. It still comes in handy every now and then but its not a good start for machining.
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>or should I go directly for its metalic version ?
You mean that one isn't even made of metal?

You should avoid anything that looks like a toy. Your machine needs to be so much stiffer than whatever it is you're trying to cut. I would be surprised if you could even cut plastic with what is pictured.

I have >>1557307
Even this flexes when you try to take like 5-10 thousandths of an inch cuts on aluminum. I've cut stainless on it, but with very shallow cuts. The 'problem' with sherline is that the motor is much more powerful than it looks because it's a variable speed DC motor. You look at a bridgeport mill and compare the size of it's tiny motor to how big the mill is for it to be stiff enough. Compare with the sherline mill where the motor is like half of the size of the mill; it's great that it has the power to cut, but the frames are not stiff enough to handle it despite being made of solid aluminum and cast iron.

A toy like the unimat could not possibly compare.

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I a plan to build a corner desk like pic related. However, I am curious to know how the builder of this desk joined the left and right sections of desk. It appears there are no legs there for support, which is preferable to me so i can maneuver a desk chair around the area. Say I use something like a 60lb butcher block, would simple brackets underneath support the weight of the wood and a populated desk? I will be posting some more examples of corner desks. Feel free to submit your own, give pointers and recommendations, and call me a moron.
21 replies and 10 images omitted. Click here to view.
I've used insert nuts to bolt steel to wood to strengthen a desk. Didn't have a driver, used a bolt with two ordinary nuts as a makeshift one but it's a bit annoying ... I recommend a proper driver.
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bump nice desks
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The wood itself is probably strong enough to support...itself, and some stuff, but if you wanted to make it stronger you could use a frame like pic related made of steel pipe or whatever. It's going to be a hella heavy desk though.
>miters are much more difficult to make precisely.

OP's corner might not be perfectly square. The lapped joint show in his picture would be perfect to fit into such a corner. Put the two sides in flush against the walls and screw the joint together from beneath after.

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What would be the proper way to paint a real skull? Does it need to be primed first or would spray paint work just fine?
It cannot be done, anon.
I do not know.. Mine are still being cleaned by ants in the back yard. I'll post a reply in a week or two if this thread is still up. I am thinking of a primer sealer first after a good scrub wash n dry. Maybe clear coat for one them.
>it takes three people to spray into a bucket of water in sequence

kek what a bunch of retards.

Can anyone help me with my rc plane, I can't make the transmitter talk with the receiver. When binding I put the power in channel3 but then the LED just burns instead of blinking. When I put the power in channel4 it goes into ''bind mode'' and the LED keeps blinking, but no matter how long I wait there is nog binding. I've ran factory reset a few times and tried it w/ & wo/ AFHDS.

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So what's the final redpill on insulation? Is spray foam the GOAT? Or is it another way for (((them))) to suppress goyim by giving them cancer via off-gassing?

If I'm building my own home what's the best way to keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer?
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Fucking LMAO at your buzzword. Tell me, in specific thermodynamic terms, what “breathable” means.

Pro tip: you can’t.
The hygrometric properties of those materials don’t change appreciably over time.

>toxicity from chemicals in the rain

I love how you backpedal to “toxic” materials when you don’t have any real evidence to support your dumb fuck arguments.
>Sun Radiation

Before you go and talk shit about a material it might be useful to understand how it’s installed. Tyvek is an underlayment and isn’t exposed to the sun.
The previous owner of my house lined the shed with hundreds of cut down polystyrene boxes from the local fruit and veg market. It makes a modest difference, would probably be better with all the gaps filled with silicone or something.

I'm about to renovate the shed, not sure I can be bothered taking it out, so I was thinking about just putting MDF straight over the top.
Kike or minority detected

I would like to convert a love seat into a sectional.

1) The wife wants one for some reason, but I am not buying new furniture until the kids are old enough to not stain them.

2) Her grandmpther just died, and the family is piecing out her home, so there is a surplus of free couches at the moment.

3) I want to cut off the arm of a love seat similar to the one in the picture, and set it up against a matching couch.

4) I assume that I will have to reinforce the side so it doesn't collapse in once the arm is gone, and cover it all with cloth cannabilized from the arm.

5) I am not a great upholsterer, so I will not be modifying the couch in any way. I will just put a big pillow on its arm rather than making a proper backing at the 90 degree intersection.

Anyone less retarded than me try this and have pointers? I know its dumb, but I have nothing to lose except an old love seat no one wants anyways.

Why are traditional Yorkshire stone houses better than 99.9% of all burger homes?

My house was built in 1898 when was yours?
17 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
My 1955 california ranch home perfectly suits my environment.
Its low enough to not obstruct the view for others.
Wide enough to allow for privacy.
The materials are light enough for emergency services to remove any collapsed structure without any additional equipment to rescue anyone trapped underneath after a major earthquake.
>My house was built in 1898 when was yours?
>My house was built in 1898 when was yours?

1900 A.D. in the midwest of the USA, Arts and Crafts Prairie style bungalow. Basement is stone with 8 foot ceilings, first floor is brick, second floor + attic are wood and stucco.

Here's something for the Bongs to chew on, I bought a 3800 sq.ft. home,with 3 car detached garage on a 23,000 sq.ft. lot, on a nice city street for just a tick over $100,000 and my property tax + sewer/water are under $1000 a year.

Meanwhile Bongs have to spend a Million Pounds to live in a ramshackle coat closet sized apartment in a chopped up subdivided house.

Nice job staying poor, Bongs.
Second-world shitholer here.
I lived in
>1950's commie block
>1937 wooden """house""" (more like house-like object that is unsafe, since it is rotter)
>2000's commie block
>dealt with various brick houses
But now I live in american third-world earthquake shithole.
>2010's iron bar reinforced brick and metal framing house.
And I have to admit, framing houses are the best.
>Fireproof, since jet fuel doesn't melt steel beams, fiberglass doesn't burn, drywall has fire retardant, and siding is cement sheet.
>Easy to add new socket
>Easy to redo wiring
>Easy to redo piping
>My house was built in 1898 when was yours?
I'm not sure, but approximately 1817-1819. It's in pretty bad shape, it's basically a wooden hut at the moment.

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Man fuck this shit and the jew who invented it.

Went up top for a little bit to drop an ethernet cable. Came down feeling like I had a whole body rash, had inhaled a bowl of sand, swallowed a cup of influenza and rubbed my eyes with acid. I stripped down as soon as I got off the ladder and had a shower and I still feel like shit.

Oh and I sure loved playing the floor is lava again.
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Fiberglass Insulation is dog shit whether it is in your attic or your walls. Cheap fucking garbage that doesn't work but no one gives a shit because the dry wall covers it up or it's in your attic. Out of sight and out of mind.

I spray foamed my whole house. 3.5 inches of closed cell foam in all the walls. 3 inches on the outside foundation below grade (did 3.5 on the inside basement walls). Sprayed 3 inches on the floor of the attic and then had them fill the rest in with open cell foam for additional R value and sound proofing. All my bathroom walls and bedroom walls got open cell foam for sound proofing (even the interior walls). Fucking bomb could go off in the next room and you wouldn't hear it. No bugs, no dust, no noise.

My 3200 sq/ft home can be heated with a candle and cooled with an ice cube. My gas and electric bills are non existent. The house is like a sanctuary of comfort and quiet.

The mechanical of a home is the number 1 priority. You can always change out the carpet or reno a kitchen but fuck tearing down all the drywall to replace the insulation.

It's amazing how fucked up people are when it comes to building a solid house. They don't bat an eye when spending 50k on kitchen but tell them it will be 30 k to insulate their house and they look at you like you raped their daughter, wife, mother and father.
>>in ceiling speakers
>what are you, fucking Walmart?

No, I just believe smart speakers are garbage, my rooms are small and I want multiple zones
Fiberglass insulation does work tho
lmfao, the fucking mexicans on the roof touching that shit barehanded and scraping the particles around with a flat scraper

top kek
well said. dubs confirm

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Do the performance increase justify the price increase in terms of brand for power tools?
Ryobi -> Rigid -> Milwaukee
Black and Decker -> Porter Cable -> Dewalt
8 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>if you say so
It's been tested, watch real tool reviews on YouTube
That shill...
Skidmoore wilhelms lie?
Anybody will lie if TTI writes a big enough check.
Lmfao nothing will make you happy, forget it, everyone else knows anyway.

Anyone used this stuff before? I'm looking to hit the walls of the inlaws basement with it after filling in larger cracks with quickcrete.

We're also planning on finishing a small area of the basement as a shower room/laundry room. I wanted to know if it was a good idea to paint just the area of the slab with drylock before putting down the plastic dimple barrier and plywood or if that would be overkill.
If you plan on putting down plastic best not to. It'll let trapped moisture wick out the concrete.
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That shit is a true waste of money and effort.

If the walls are bare masonry, or at least have never been painted with a oil or latex paint, then the best product is Thoroseal. Which is a cement coating you mix with water and either brush or trowel on.

ask a bored painter anything
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Is it true that stoners are the biggest painters in the workmarket?
Sprayer could be the fastest but I wouldn't trust if you were going to do it yourself. I don't spray but I know that you need a very good nozzle/gun to do a good job, plus know how to, then there's the prep work so...it might not be worth it. A thick roller + paint will be the easiest if not the fastest

I've met all sorts of addicts that paint. More alcoholics than stoners, but all trades in general tend to be alchies and potheads in here
Thanks mate, I'll do that with my wall
thanks for replying. the roller application may require more coats & labor. im fairly versed in airbrush use for small art applications; the gunk'd up nozzle is the bane of its use, which ensures the rare use of said medium for me. plus i sold my 30gal compressor. again, thank you for the input anon.
I'm a painter so this thread makes me happy.
I used to work for a smalltime local painting company doing nicer ~interior decoration~ type painting how OP sounds like he's doing. I liked it then, I was young, I wish I'd taken things more seriously. Now I work for a property management company and don't like it so much. My jobs are restoring old buildings and apartments, less repainting an established home and more repairing incidental damage, patching holes or crumbling old plaster, and coats of white, flat eggshell or semigloss. I cash my paycheck and get my benefits but I don't feel like I'm growing as a person or honing my trade, more like my work habits feel like they're slipping at times and I miss working in different environments. Do you work for yourself? How are you, how'd you get started in the biz? I feel like being part of professional crews working in nice homes across the area did me better than this deadbeat maintenance tech position. The work is steadier, the benefits are there, I don't break my back, but I'm juggling other peoples' priorities.

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I'm fixing to cut a big hole in my wall to put in a closet pretty soon here, and I just want to make sure my house isn't going to collapse. The wall is running parallel to the joists, so I don't think it's load bearing, but there's a support pillar under it in the crawlspace. I'm planning on putting in a 2x8 header to span the opening, but should I be concerned about anything else? Pic related is a the remodel plans but not the right part
>Pic related is a the remodel plans but not the right part

Yeah, based on that I think you'll be fine.
That's what I thought, but I'm no structural engineer
As long as you properly brace and frame the header you should be fine. Make sure to properly support the top plate when working on the studs.

I wouldn't remove/cut into more than 2-3 studs on a load bearing wall even if you were putting in a proper header without first getting an engineer to look at it. The spans and load calculations can be tricky if you don't know what you are doing, and if there are multiple purlins on the span it could be worse. But 2-3 studs should be fine if you properly brace and frame the header.

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My house is built against a hillside where water run off from rain floods the back side of my house and when its really bad seeps into my sun room almost into my home. What can i do to reroute the water from flooding my back yard area. Up the hill is owned by the city so i have about 70 ish feet to play with
9 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
>If i build my drainage system up the hill will it effect them
possibly, hard to say for sure without a proper study of the situation.
this is one of the reasons we have engineering standards for things like this in the US. it is meant to (hopefully) protect everyone from bad construction practices that could adversely affect local water run-off and storm drainage.
most places in the US have rules to prevent you from fucking up your neighbors property by diverting storm water onto it, even underground storm water

i dont like excessive rules and restrictions. but this is one area where the basic intent is to protect people and property.
when it comes to designing and building storm drainage structures and systems, generally an engineer is required so that potential problems are avoided or mitigated though engineering design

storm water run off, even subsurface water flow, can and will absolutely destroy things like roads and buildings.
once you start fucking with drainage, you've potentially stepped into a very volatile area
It's really easy to convince water to go elsewhere : just make sure it has somewhere lower it can get to. You want the ground to slope away from your house and towards a stream or drain or somewhere it can get off your property.

another word for it is weeping tile. very doable on your own. I've installed a fair bit of it (i work in water& sewer)

although it might be easier to take the steepest route it can also speed up erosion and you might end up with a divot in your lawn.

try and keep your slopes gradual, I like to use a laser level to keep my slope gradual and stop water from pooling in certain spots along the way.

perhaps you could cross your yard diagonally from the intersection of your yellow and orange lines to the terminus of the orange line? (or somewhat diagonally)

also, is the berm with the bushes higher than your back yard?

you could maybe disguise a spillway as a rock garden
it's hard to know without seeing the high and low spots

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
The lot next to mine above the bushes is all flat. Behind my house is a ledge drop with another retaining wall about 3 foot high where most of the spill off forms. Ill see if i can get a picture of it tomorrow when its light out.

The sun room in the back is build slightly underground supporting the weight of the hill with windows up top. I have no troubles from the room or the other side of my home. Just the right side doorway. When we get bad rains it gets about 3 inches deep. My area floods pretty frequently but im so far up hill i dont get the brunt of it.

2 years back it flooded so bad though that it pushed against my house so much that it started pouring into the basement top walls. It looked like a horror movie.

Some notes based on your photo:

The drain does not need to be far away from your house. In fact you may not want it to be on the actual slope of your hill as you will have a tough time digging it to the proper dimensions. If there is a low point behind your house (i.e., ground slopes away from your house to meet the hill) put the drain there. If the hill slopes directly into the back of your house you are going to have issues regardless. That would need to be rectified first.

The drain only needs to extend as far as the sides of your house unless you are trying to protect something in the level area to the side. A longer drain just requires more capacity and introduces more locations for tree roots, etc. to clog it. So yellow line.

The drain itself does not necessarily need to exit at the street. These are typically at relatively flat slopes. It would probably exit about halfway down the slope between your house and the rock wall. It would also not be flowing fast or really be as much volume as you may think.

You need an entrance head for your electric meter conduit.

Hey leather guys, help me out a little.

There aren't really any open to the public leather suppliers in my city so I'm buying blind online. I get how the oz weight sizing works and everything, but I was hoping someone could tell me how to tell the difference between soft leather and rigid leather?

I'm planning on making a notebook cover and I'd like it to be a fairly rigid leather in the 3-4oz range, however I'm stumped at how I'm supposed to know if a certain type of leather is the right one. I know that veg tan tends to be more rigid than chrome tan but that's all I really know.

Are there any key words I can look for to easily spot more rigid types?
3 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I think Tandy leather ships nationwide. Give them a shot. I've bought a lot of buckskin from them.
the Tandy recommended is good start, they have unfinished "kits" with info provided as to weight, tan process, etc. should be good guides/info for anon to refine material choices for your project..
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I suggest you skin a cat for the cover of your notebook. Seriously. Go someplace where there are too many cats and get yourself a nice fur. Catfur was used against arthrites and backpain in the old days. I think it works because of static electricity stuff.
Be thrifty. Look for couches and recliners in the trash. Apartment complexes are ripe with these. Leather furniture is leather where you sit or easily touch. The sides and back are fake stuff. Carry a razor knife and check the backing for sure. It is thin light but easy to shape and mold.
Get the fake stuff too (particularly the backs of couches, it's generally cleaner and less damaged so you can get bigger pieces for bigger projects).

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Anyone know what this is?
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Maybe they had a scissor lift.
pics or it didn't happen
behave - someone got booted itt for that already ;)
post it on /trash/ and link it here
plagued corner bead

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