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File: electric.jpg (191 KB, 1000x960)
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Found this wiring behind a long-dead battery powered smoke detector.
The smoke detector had been there for at least 25 years (I know, I know - I'm replacing it tomorrow with a smoke/carbon monoxide detector tomorrow), but I found it curious that it was covering this unused outlet box.

But what I'm really wanting to identify is the red wire that is attached to the box itself? Is it a ground? If so, shouldn't it be green or bare?
Also, the two sheathed wires are black and grey. I know black is hot and white is neutral, so I'm guessing the grey is the same as white?
This is in USA and the house (a mobile home) was built in 1965.
44 replies and 5 images omitted. Click here to view.
Shouldn't the black and red wires from the same line be connected to tandem breakers? On the panel I notice one of them (on the bottom) is, but the other is not. I also see two wires connected to a single breaker...
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>be connected to tandem breakers?
the only reason to use a tandem breaker is if your adding circuits and have used up all your breaker slots.
fuck! *you're
Are you yelling at yourself? I think that it is an unwritten rule, that we tolerate typos. Everyone F's up.
>Are you yelling at yourself?

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wtf is this insert called and where can I get some to make my own nib holders.
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no, just no
just a hole with a stick in it.
drill hole. glue in a smaller stick
I'd rather have a pack of those blue inserts. no way I got the finesse for a double stick hole.
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holy fuck you have fat hands. dude, go on a diet, for real.

Hey DIY, I’m a first year (second semester) architecture student and I’m currently starting an instagram account where I post some of the works I have to develop for uni. Most of them conssist of two post, where I upload the creative process + prototypes, and the second where I upload final models with an explanation of the task. Captions are on spanish, but ig itself has a translation option. I thought some of you could be interested in this, account: @aa574t
Critics, ideas, comments are always appreciated
2 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Oh and also, they are all the tasks for my main course, not only the “good tasks”, so its not like I’m showing myself or anything like that lmao
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>to see my own progress

>Take picture of project using phone
>Show to friends

It should be that simple.
First post is from september and I jjst opened it like 2 days ago? Seems that the one trying too hard is you
Wait what please explain
Guess I’ll just make it private again, sorry if anyone else was into this. Just let this thread die

Is silica dust a real hazard or just a meme?
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.
>Say after this job is done, will the house be contaminated with silica dust?

every house that has drywall looks like that at some point during construction. they vacuum it. lots of it winds up in the filters if the AC or heat has been hooked up. But once you move in it's either gone or it's someplace stable. It's not like plutonium, your body can handle quite a bit without harm. How do you think humans survive dust storms, and sand blowing around in general?
Okay. Well I was going to run an air scrubber anyways because I’m paranoid.
Dude it's just dust. Don't worry about it.
google silicosis or "miners lung".
Shit that your body can't adsorb will fuck you over in the long run.
Leaf blower out the window

21 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
They probably have insulating ones underneath
you good sir read my mind

You are like a little baby. Watch THIS
The boom is insulating, so the moment they grab the cable they and the box they are standing in become the same voltage as the cable with any real current flowing. Until they are connected there's still sparks because they have a small capacitance to the environment, but the sparks don't carry much energy.

Probably enough to give you RF burns though, so best have conductive gear on. No wearable insulation will stop high voltage, no matter how short the spark, keeping the current outside your body with a conductive shell makes it harmless though.
without any real current flowing

Anyone here have some good sources of ebooks on building guitars?
I've been interested in studying it for a while but just never took the plunge. I've got a few books on order but I was hoping to find some in depth pdfs/ebooks or even good videos that go into detail, not just quick overviews or timelapses.
38 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.
judging from the picture I assume you mean electric guitars.

Stewmac.com - tools, kits, and guides.

Warmoth.com - pre-made necks, custom designed bodies, and so on. (you can effectively make your own DIY kit to build from things you can order here.)

recommendations: Dont try to build your own neck right away.
Get a good soldering iron and stock if you're new to electronics.
Don't try to do any fancy electronics to begin with if you're new to guitar wiring.
Stewmac has pre-built wiring harnesses for any style of guitar you could have. (strat, Tele, LP, SG. As well as single pots and caps)

Guitar building is art more than science to be honest. certain sciences must be observed like scale length measurements and proper grounding. Otherwise it's a learn by doing kind of gig.

I started building guitars after I started repairing guitars. So you could run to a pawn shop and pick up a cheap ass off brand guitar and try to make it play like it's high end equivalent. like get a squire and try to do it up like an Am-Pro Fender
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you guys like guitars
lets all be pals
never seen one that matches the guitar, i guess it would look rather odd since the idea is it being off center,just watch any rr model, i think only the 7 strings model gets it "right"

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How would you do it? Help me think of some kind of a contraption for this job.
26 replies and 2 images omitted. Click here to view.
Its not. If your complex owns the box and its your apartments specific box then your allowed to change lock as long as you provide them a key. Same with your door locks. Its actually against the law for the apartment complex to NOT allow its tenents to access their space.

>t. locksmith
OP says it belongs to the apartment he "lives in" (not "my apartment") - for all we know he's a squatter or is just crashing there overstaying his welcome.
Also, it looks like the type of box that belongs to a business. Probably the apartment complex's office drop or something.
OP sent them something he regrets and wants back.
Maybe I got no advice for faggots tho so if thats the case he can fuck off
Long Culinary tweezers

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>Just finished first semester of welding school
>Lots of practice with stick, mig, a little bit of tig
>Want (need) a job that can let me get more professional/field experience welding
>Find a job looking for mig welders, only requirement is that you have to do a 2g
>No biggy, that was an assigment we had, and I'm top of my class grade wise
>Tell hiring guy straight up that I've got professional experience with stick welding, but absolutely zero with mig, and I want to say as much before we go anywhere because I don't want to waste anyone's time
>Tell me it's fine, welding test in a week
>Take test, and besides being a little nervous, machine was set hot as fuck. 25/26 amps, I'm used to working with 18-22
>I fail the test, but just barely. Says my beads are too far apart.
>They want me to test again in a week. Kind of bummed out/feel like I'm not ready, but receptionist lady told me that the guy who runs the tests is a surly bastard, and normally he tells people to walk in like 10 minutes, meanwhile we were back there for like 45 minutes

Any welders have any input? The job is like 52 minutes away, pay is 15/hr but they said they'll work with my school schedule. Just feels like I'm not ready, and somehow managing to get lucky on the test means I might end up in over my head when it comes time to do repeat instances of high quality work.
29 replies and 1 image omitted. Click here to view.

I've never even heard of 6G. Not to say they don't, but yeah. I'm in it for an associates in welding sciences to work towards a CWI.


I'll ask, but I'm fairly sure they won't let you. Sort of a "if you can't do it our way then you're useless to us". Is adjusting the machine settings something some companies let you do? I've heard of welders getting pissy because the companies won't let them run the machines as hot as they want, but I've never heard of it the other way around.

Finally decided to look into 6G, yeah pipe welding. TSTC offers that. Part of the curriculum I'll be learning in third or fourth semester.
You want to get a 6G. It Trump's all other weld tests. If you can get one get it. As far as adjusting the machine goes usually you can,. There is generally an accepted range that you must stay within then again some places don't even have this and just let you do whatever. There is a good chance the machine you were using for that test was just still on whatever the next guy was using, maybe it was so hot because he was burning through rust in a flat position. Ask the guy giving the test for parameters, if he looks at you like a deer in headlights do whatever you want.
I took a test (6G) in February for a job in Austin. The parameters were as follows

37 degree bevel. Plus or minus 15 degrees

3/32 root 60-120 amps
1/8 hot. Fill. Cap. 60-160 amps

No mention of gap or landing. They were bassically saying let's see what you got, with those parameters. Passed it made 17 k in 27 days.

Based stick bro. The money is definitely a selling point for the career, but I really just enjoy welding as an activity. Sort of like painting, except it burns you from time to time. Feels good to put down quality work.

Anyone know if and where I can source some pvc or other plastic pipe with an internal diameter of 14.5-15mm in the UK? Have spent houring trawling through the internet and the best I can find is 14 or 16mm ID. Can be black/clear, I don't care because it's going inside the piece and won't be visible.
4 replies omitted. Click here to view.

Not plastic and not sure if it's OD or ID
Can it be flexible or do you need a ridgid pipe.
I reread the post and I didn't make it clear. The piece I already have is a 14.5mm OD air rifle barrel, and I need this to slide over it. I meant that this piece of pipe will be hidden from view once the project is finished so I'm not fussy on what it looks like. I do only need a few short sections so that might still be a viable option to reduce some 16mm ID pipe down though.

What site is this for?

Rigid, but I have planned for how I'll adapt the design if I can only find flexible

That looks great, have found a few places to buy it here in UK if plastic doesn't show it's face; thanks.
That first one is a fucked up link to the second one that I copy and posted correctly the second time

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Toughest trades

My vote goes for drywalling.
294 replies and 19 images omitted. Click here to view.

Why don't Americans finish plasterboard with finishing plaster/skimming?

It's really not that hard to pick up when you're just doing it on fresh board.

Surely it's got to be more cost effective to just skim plasterboard in one hit, as opposed to going over the joints 2, maybe 3 times, waiting for it to dry and then sanding it all?

I don't get it. Why is drywalling standard practice when it's clearly a massive ballache and far more time consuming?
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Forgot to add picture, for those that aren't sure what I'm talking about
>It's really not that hard to pick up when you're just doing it on fresh board.

I can't refute your claims, but why doesn't some Croatian come to america and undercut all the mexican crews and get rich doing it the easy and fast way? Believe me, the industry would switch to your cheaper method overnight.

which makes me think you are probably full of shit about that "easier" and "faster" part. It's not that hard to show superiority when there's that much money to be made, so do it.
Physically removing osha fags solves that problem. Tell him to come back with a cop or don't come back.
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Get a real job ya fookin alchie meth head.

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What's the easiest way to get that nasty vinyl smell out of polymer clay?
roasted over an open fire?

My oven quit working. I tested the carbon electric glow ignitor and promptly dropped it. So i bought another and the oven is still kill.

I just got pic related. Gas runs to the stovetop and runs straight into this faggot box.

If i unscrew the box i can smell gas...

Is this wtf it is? I'm $80 in so far trying to save loading the piece of shit in a truck that gets 5mpg and paying $160 after driving it 30 miles
Stop. What tells that valve to open? Does it have a little probe that SHOULD generate mV when the pilot is lit? It probably does.
You'll have to forgive me, the only gas equipment I work on is commercial stuff.
I looked it up, that valve requires the ignitor to have voltage, then this valve opens. If the valve opens, gives gas, then flame goes out, you have a problem proving flame. This is commonly done by rectification if you have a control board or module that controls ignition. Otherwise, a thermocouple or thermopile proves flame. With a standing pilot, there is sometimes no proving, but I've only ever seen that on commercial ranges.

If the valve fails to open, verify you get full voltage to your valve coil (those connectors.) If you STILL get no gas, that valve is bad.
>If i unscrew the box i can smell gas...
That's because the control valve is in the box.
The gas goes down the pipe to this box and waits for the valve in the box to open.
It only opens when the igniter is glowing.
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I want to make a translucent red/orange grip for a revolver ala bladerunner

What would be the best way to do this?
188 replies and 59 images omitted. Click here to view.
Almost a month and no update, brah. What's up?
bump. I still want to see that finished grip for fucks sake.
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Godspeed to you Godspeed anon
>Shouldn’t be TOO long for me to get this done, but I’ve been busy. I will finish this project I promise you all

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I want to cut a gear, can I just mark out the shape on the aluminium blank then chop away with a milling machine? All other methods look too complicated and need specialist tools
53 replies and 4 images omitted. Click here to view.
Btw don't forget the rest of the system. Gears are the one thing but you also need bearings. In this case ceramic bearings or high pressure hydrostatic bearings. These will probably cost the same amount as the gears or more.
Thanks but they're bevelled
I found a supplier for the bearings, thanks.
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Can confirm, wery nice method indeed. I've used it on quite small lathe (Proxxon PD250E) to make worm gear D40 out of aluminium, used M12 tap. But bigger tap would be better
By the time you've added the weight, cost, and complexity necessary to contain your exploding niggergear, you could have just bought an actual proper gear made by professionals.

>hurr the board is called /diy/ don't be a buyfag
There's literally nothing wrong with buying a component, especially a safety critical one. You're still diying the finished project

>he doesn't even mine iron ore and smelt his own steel to hand craft all his tools
laughing /diy/nosaurs dot exe

Like I said upthread, rotational momentum ain't nothing to fuck with:

Making the gear balanceable is an ok idea, but you don't have the equipment needed to precisely measure the balancing needed.

Comment too long. Click here to view the full text.
>Find a standard gear offered in the catalog of a reputable manufacturer, made of case hardened steel, and design around that.
I will. Thanks everyone.

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I've got a shitty Chinese scooter that's recently lost power. The story goes

>Riding home
>Engine starts stuttering and loses power
>Thought I'd run out of fuel (on empty and dodgy fuel gauge)
>Fill it up and it runs but no power and won't rev very high

I've since pulled apart the area that contains the drive belt and pulled apart the carb and cleaned all the valves, from the initial break down to after cleaning the carb etc I can't even get it started anymore, any ideas on what it could be
8 replies omitted. Click here to view.
I doubt it has a fuel pump. Gravity systems get shit in them for gravatonic reasons. If you ran on empty and cleaned carb, you probably loosened up shit that clogged carb again. Get a clear plastic tube from hardware store and attach anywhere on the downstream side or to the float bowl if there is a way. Bent the tube if you have to or whatever. The level you see in the tube will display the level in the carb. It should be just below the split line. I bet your oil smells like gas. Ps. Don't take any advice that is a pain in the ass. Any dummy can post here.
>I've usually had it stutter when going at higher speeds
Clogged fuel filter or weak spark.
Check filter first.
Check valve timing. Similar issue happened to my bike. If not, check if air filter is soaked with oil
Check the spark plug, how does it look? Dry? Oily? Dark or light?
Check the plug cap, coil, and all connections. Black boxes on these are garbage and can cause trouble. Take a multimeter to the coil if you can.
Check the air filter, could be clogged.
Do a compression test if you're able.
Check the battery.
I'm leaning toward electrical problems given the nature of how it died on you.
A lot of these shitters run off a carb with no pump, but pull vacuum to control the shutoff.
Check the chink tier safety valve.

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