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File: after-flood-750x372.jpg (64 KB, 750x372)
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Can anyone give me any info on the subject of water damage. Id like to know the science behind how water leaks through and damages pain, even primer. I looked around online but all i could find is ways to cover up water damage. Does anyone know the science behind it leaking through?
1 reply omitted. Click here to view.
That Croatian guy is an expert at moisture control, you should ask him.
i figured he would have responded by now. there is drywall in OP's image.

must be busy jerking off to a picture of a brick
Water damage occurs when water is allowed to linger around. High humidity creates an environment ideal for mold growth.
(latex) paint is literally a layer of plastic designed to cover all water-sensitive surfaces.
Unfortunately, mold sees paint as food, so you don't want water to be lingering around regardless.

Humidity can be localized.
Water vapor can find its way through the smallest cracks.
Temperature differentials cause condensation, which is similar in concept to a magnet for water.
This means that gaps in your walls, caused by windows, sockets, as well as "water traps", such as poor waterproof membrane application for your climate and poor air quality control can all contribute to water lingering around inside of your walls, causing mold.
Water damage can be unrelated to mold in the sense that water-sensitive materials, such as plywood, OSB, MDF... et al glued engineered woods which have a propensity to irreversibly expand in contact with water.
For some reason, many materials designed to wrap around a house have a cardboard substrate, and the results are obvious when they inevitably become wet.

The moral of the story is to design not just for weather, but to also design for the stupidest of contractors so that your """genius waterproof design""" isn't outwitted by the dumbest guy on site with a nailgun.
Thanks for the responses. I worded my original question poorly. What I was after, was the science behind a dried water stain showing through supposedly stain blocking primer, in this case Zinsser Bullseye 123.

Some additional poking around, has confirmed an idea I came up with after I posted, namely, tannins.

Thanks again, sorry for the delay.

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what are some cool diy led party lights projects? i wanted to do a led matrix, connect them to a raspberry pi and program my own light modes. what do i need for this kinda stuff? i just have a rpi, a cheap soldering iron and a starter pi sensor/electronics kit.
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>inb4 your haters show up
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Yes you could use an Rpi instead of the homebrew microcontroller boards. The Rpi's GPIO can't switch 12v loads so you will still need a row of power FETs.
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Yeah I know. I haven't posted in like months because I have been busy with family stuff and projects. Still they will probably show up and cry.
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>it impresses the hell out of me that you got this done in 2 weeks.

It's all about carefully planning things out in a way that can be built quickly. This is another LED wall I built a year earlier. Building this one dragged on for months and months because I didn't put any thought into minimizing the labor involved. I learned from those mistakes.
I'm just impressed you were able to do that on a $500 budget (materials only?)

what’s a good material to make stencils for graffiti. i heard mylar is good but i would love to hear more options
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Go spraypaint someone else's building and you'll get a taste of it
>be stenciller
>keep my stencil cut out from the bottom of a big shopping bag
>use a paint roller, not aerosol paint
>only ever stencil over a big enough tag or shit graffiti
>never stencil on a blank canvas
>often my stencils have a community message: "pick up your dog's shit"
how does this thread feel about my behaviour?
You're pure evil. But nessesary evil.
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if you are doing reverse graffiti like this you can use thin MDF sheeting, for photorealistic you can use a laser cutter and use a pressure washer to apply it. nondestructive. businesses like it too
Paddington had a really in your face political message though, which in turn is part of its charm.
>'Living in Reading during the war, I can remember train-loads of refugees coming down from London. A lot of the children had luggage labels round their necks with their names and addresses on them. It made a great impression on me; seeing these lost, frightened people. I felt it would say a lot about the Brown family that they were prepared to take in a refugee like Paddington.'

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How fast interns of cm/s can the typical optical mouse detect
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The inch is defined in millimeters lol

get out of here with that commie lie
It's a tough redpill to swallow, but your country's bureau of standards (now NIST) agreed on the redefinition of the inch to derive from SI units.

looks like you left out a few parentheses there, anon.
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This is a good thread.

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Just bought a cheap RFID scanner, was wondering what I could scan to test if it works?
Looking to duplicate something or change the signals to my advantage if that helps let you know what I'm looking for

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How hard is it to make a street-legal car from scratch in america? I don't have any tools or experience, but I have money, time, and enthusiasm. My goal is to have my car licensed and on the road within 3 years if that's possible.

Something like pic-related with modern features like ABS and air bags would be ideal.
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Silhouetting now I've tried to google you a nice example doesn't bring up anything but Lambo Silhouette shit, it may be a local or older term I guess? Anyway, rebody is another word that more or less means the same thing: https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=30&t=1138068&i=80

Check this out.
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>what have I contributed other than labor and a bit of skill?

im not sure you're appreciating how much of that were talking about
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This is something I would call a silhouetted vehicle, and somebody does use the term in the thread here:

Try and find a club or something as well, another thing is insurance and custom car insurance is often cheaper if you belong to a specialist club relevant to your vehicle.
An Australian university developed a cheap way to make composite bodies by hand using aluminium honeycomb, can't find the website rn though. It's also fairly straightforward to take molds of original parts too if you can get your hands on them, you don't have to bend and weld aluminium.
building a car from scratch only depends on what exactly you mean by "car". a street legal pedal cart or moped or trike or electric quad(like a golf cart) are by comparison much simpler and fairly cheap to do. if however you want a 12 cylinder 4.2 liter v6 motor with steel frame and body ect... those take decades to design. also theres certifications to consider such as with airbags an explosive charge is used so you need certified and licensed parts that are installed by certified professionals.

motor design aside the hardest part of designing a car is weight managment and calibrations of the drive train. certain weights need certain types of axles which must be mounted in an ultra precise way so the car doesnt drift or roll over upon turning at speed.

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hi /diy/. im really jewish and I need internet. I want to connect to my neighbors router via a device which i dont remember its name. I want to run a several hundred foot long ethernet cable from this device that is wirelessly connected to my neighbors router to my computer. what am I looking for? and no i cant run it wirelessly with a yagi as there's too much shit the signal has to penetrate.
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Literally any modern wireless router has a feature that does exactly what you're wanting to do.
Don't bump your own thread on a board this slow, it makes you look like a dumbass.
Wait I take that back, you don't LOOK like one anymore.
>There are legitimate reasons for this device that /diy/nosaurs feed on
No, there isn't. Do you see tons of threads asking for anything remotely like what OP is asking? I don't either.
Only based reply this thread needed.
all I am hearing right now is op is a jew and you are also a jew
>Literally any modern wireless router has a feature that does exactly what you're wanting to do.

No. Wireless routers are hardwired to a modem. OP wants to wirelessly connect to his neighbor with something that has an ethernet port for a hardwire that runs to OP's shed. I think a wireless extender is what OP needs.

OP's neighbor is the one who has an internet connection that OP wants to use.
Yes. I understand exactly what OP wants, it's your own lack of knowledge that is confusing you.

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>been at home for years
>hole forms in intersection of concrete wall and vinyl fence
>about 2 feet long, 1 foot wide, 1 foot deep
>in florida although not in a sinkhole prone area
>just to be safe, contact sinkhole specialist
>they scan my property and find no evidence of sinkhole - just a natural depression that formed
>fill in hole with sand, wet it, compact it, top off with top soil then sod
>fine for 6 months
>2 months later, step in the area
>sagging again
>figure the hole opened up again
>dig thru the sod expecting the hole to have opened up again
>nope, no hole
>the soil where the hole was is loose and multiple shades lighter the the surrounding soil with many white specks which I figure is the sand I poured (pic related - red area is where it's sagging/where the hole previously was)
>dig down about 2 feet

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No, the square's bigger than the hole. I just dug up the area of the square since the surrounding soil was also sagging a bit towards the direction of the hole

forgot my pic
Man, we have so many hole specialists around here, not sure why you spent that money.
Wait, it’s in the corner of your yard?

I had a root bust a sprinkler line after Irma blew over a little tree and I didn’t notice til the littke sinkhole started appearing a month or two later. Could it possibly be a neighbor’s sprinkler line right on the other side of the fence? The lines are typically only buried like a foot under ground though so it didn’t take long for me to spot the white PVC in the hole.
Do you have a sewer line or waste pipe in the area? Could be a buried waste line has developed a hole and the dirt is going into it.
I had something like this develop about 20 years after a tree was cut down. The root system rotted away and left a void.

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I have this coin. The only thing I use it for is rolling across my knuckles. It's dull and smells like metal, how can I polish it without stripping it. No clue what it's made of
7 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Your a retard
It's a coin medal, it cant be used as currency but can cost more than itself for however much people are willing to give for it.
is autistic, not retarded
is the retard. MEK won't kill you even if you tke a sniff while polishing your coin-medal, I used it for hours melting epoxy on a circuit board and I turned out fine, shitposting with the best
OP rolls a “coin” across his knuckles for fun, but the guy who knows how to call it is autistic???
Being autistic doesn't mean you're wrong, just autistically pedantic and concerned about definitions.

I'm taking possession of my first house in 2 weeks. The purchase does not include the washer & dryer, which are 8 years old. How much should a guy offer? I was thinking $500 for the pair, is that jewy or should I go lower?
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I have a couple old Westinghouse units that are well over 20 years old. Top load washer.
Replaced heater on dryer due to a broken element, belt on washer, drain hose and fill hoses.
Most units are bog simple to repair. The newer side load washers do use less water and spin cloths better, making the dryer work less. That's about the only difference.
These new Wi-Fi "smart" things are just overblown toasters with more shit to break.
Look up the units on ebay and see what folks are offering. Knock off 50$ that price since the seller would have to move them out and sell them.
Who the fuck takes 8-year old washer/dryer with them?
Unless it's a Dexter or something commercial normally used in a laundromat or hotel, that I'd understand.
>We have a 30 year old gas dryer that works amazingly well and all I needed to fix it was a hard drive magnet to keep the door closed when the old locking tab snapped off.
I'm looking at buying a smallish gas dryer atm, seems pretty nice.

If anyone here has worked on houses, what have you found is easy cheap fixes to help bring up value to sell my home? Everything is pretty old inside. Bathroom is super small. Other rooms are pretty large. Old hardwood floor that is damaged under carpet that also needs replaced.

Things i plan on currently doing:
Painting interior

New flooring(unsure if i should go with wood or carpet again)

Replace screen door

Work on lawn area
5 replies omitted. Click here to view.
Thank you, very informative.
I bought the house pretty cheap, 60k, the houses around it are pretty run down for around the same price. Im not looking to make bank but not be in the hole when i sell because i purchased 4 years ago but need to move 3 states away for family.

Id rent it out but desu i dont trust the people in this area, low lifes and druggies. Rather save the headache.

The area isnt violent or scary just lots of druggies and weirdos, trailer trash mentality.
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>I'd rent it out but desu i dont trust the people in this area, low lifes and druggies. Rather save the headache.
>The area isnt violent or scary just lots of druggies and weirdos, trailer trash mentality.

You have one of two choices and both involve research:

Choice 1:
Cut your loses, it's not worth investing in when no one will want to buy it. The people that would tolerate such an area wouldn't have much money anyway so they couldn't afford it. Look around and see what similar houses are selling for in the area. If you can already make a profit on it then it's best to do as little as possible and just put it on the market. Sometimes another flipper wants do their own thing and just wants to completely bare-bone the house so if you want a quick and easy clean deal then sell "as is". Time may pass and you may have to unfortunately sell it for less than you bought it for, but this is indicative that not even a flipper sees value in it.

Choice 2:
Risk it for brisket, but don't risk it all. Do absolutely no exterior work other than minor landscaping/tidying up. Dirt, grass and ornamental plants are cheap and you should be able to get away with making the outside look fantastic/solve drainage problems for less than $500. (protip, homedepot and lowes have sales on bags of dirt, mulch, grass and plants every spring and fall, making it less than $300). Don't bother with the roof, but make sure the gutters are in order and degrease the siding.
On the inside, clean fucking everything and make sure the amenities are in order such as the plumbing, electrical, HVAC. Painting/drywalling/tiling/general handyman stuff is okay if you know what you're doing, but don't go overboard. It's a shit area and having a functioning home to go to is a comfort in itself and that's all they really care about. A house can only look so good when shit surrounds it. I don't know your time frame, but don't expect to sell it this year, even if you manage to get the work done.
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I am actually looking at buying houses at the moment.
In my area the big upgrade that shoots up the price seems to be those subway tiles in the kitchen and the wood looking linoleum. Seems like any houses with floor upgrades have the fake wood.
> Linoleum
Seriously, fuck off and kys while doing it. Do NOT come back until you can afford real tile.
>In my area the big upgrade that shoots up the price seems to be those subway tiles in the kitchen and the wood looking linoleum. Seems like any houses with floor upgrades have the fake wood.
The prices are decided by what people want to sell for and to a lesser degree by what people want to buy it for. Remember that most places you see advertised will have higher than market value prices because they don't get sold. The ones priced at or below market value get bought, bought houses don't get advertised for long. So it's likely a bunch of people have stuck in a bit of shitty new linoleum and have unrealistic expectations.

Depends what you mean by real tile, but in general agree.

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How hard would it be and how long would it take to make a locost?
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Please link to a video showing how stick is a "good choice for thin shit".
7014 sheet metal
put that into the google machine.
i was welding some 16 gauge tubing just after new years with a 3/32 7018 down to something stipid like 60 amps. just takes some life XP points.
It's obviously not finished.
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the radiator is in here

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Hey /diy/! I've asked /o/ a lot about this, so let me break it down for you guys
>remove brake shield while changing wheel bearing
>its rusty and fucked
>bend it off, only one screw hole intact
>regret it later after other work done on my car

so, here is my issue.
>very basic knowledge of welding
>thin metal to cast metal
>can't remove the hub to attach the shield properly because the hub has to be removed first, and I don't want to risk damaging a bearing

So the plan is to clamp the sheild to the knucle and do a couple welds around the knuckle to hold it there. Any imput is helpful, welding tips and such. Thanks /diy/

pic related
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Nice advice and nice dubs my guy
Just leave the fucker off it's not really even needed
Not a heat shield. Leave it off instead of rigging something that may fall off while driving. Pic related.
Do it right or don't drive, faggot. So tired of these shit posts on /diy/ where "I did a retarded thing, can I fix it stupid method a or should I stupid method b" "do it right faggot" "oh no I can't for reasons" It's the cancer this board.
>dust shield
>brake shield
>brake heat shield
etc etc, they're known by many names

>mad because op removed rusted part
>wanting to spend 70 dollars on a new shield, fuck up the new bearing, buy a new one, then take it to someone to press in the new one after the shield has been put on

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I've been working on the same project for like 5 months.

Getting the coolant system up and running was almost as neat as seeing the neon-green liquid flowing through the clear hoses I used.
Linus is that you?
No fuck that kid. His videos are garbage.
Where is you picture with Newports in it?
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Meh, I haven’t worked retail in like 10 years.

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I'm curious, does anyone have the paid $30 a year membership to HF for all the "extra deals" or whatever?

The " inside track club"

I go there a decent amount and am curious if it's worth it....I mainly just load down on consumables I eat through like sandpaper, wire brushes, ect... but I have got a few of their power tools with mixed, but for the price, very satisfied results.
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I agree. Don't know what >>1556652
Is on about. HF told work fine for me because I take care of my tools, use them for the intended application and don't overstress them, and keep them clean/lubricated/maintained where needed. I probably have a couple of dozen HF power tools and a lot of hand tools, no complaints here ever.
I mean, now that I can afford better tools, yeah, I will replace my HF as it dies. The only exception to this will probably be the drill press, which I want to replace badly now because of the slop in the chuck I can't eliminate all together. (I center punch everything, so it's not a huge issue, just annoying.)
I negotiated a 2-year membership with the manager in return for my purchasing a scratch and dent tool cabinet. He gave me the membership price off the matching upper in return for me buying the upper, lower, side cabinet, and the memebership. Over the next 2 years I saved probably another $100 - $150 off various purchases, but I was buying a moderate amount of tools for projects at the time. There really aren't all that many "inside track" deals, and over the 2 year period they never managed to mail me a flyer despite repeatedly mentioning this to cashiers and verifying they had my correct info.
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>Throwing away $100 shouldnt be something people swallow so easily.
when you move out of your mom's basement, you'll learn that $100 is not a lot of money.
Your life sounds like a rewarding adventure :)

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