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I have a creek running at the edge of my property, and I wish to build a waterwheel in it. One end of the central axle will be supported on the bank, the other on a stone gabion in the centre of the creek. The creek is prone to flooding, so how can I know what dimensions/weight to use for the gabion to stop it from washing away/moving?
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Look up Real Engineering on Youtube if you're curious about fluid systems/hydroelectric/civil engineering, he explains a lot of basic concepts very well and if you're going to be serious about it at all you may want to learn about it.
This book has some pretty good information on the proper way to set up a water wheel and what calculations need to be made and how to do them: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1629143693/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Bc0TCbCF2QRBG
Do you feel stupid now?
First step is to calculate the force of the moving water. Here's a handy walkthrough.
Your gabion will need to weigh AT LEAST as much as the force of the moving water (600 pounds of force=600+ pound gabion). Excess weight is good here to account for rainfall and flooding. If you can put the gabion at least a foot or more into the bottom of the creek bed, then it will gain extra strength and you can reduce the weight a bit.

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Hauled this off a job site, it's rough and weathered
Lets see what I can do with it for re-sale
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I made a bunch of those. They work very well, but not all mice like to stick their heads in. I found I still needed to use other types of traps to catch the 10%ers.

This is the final design I've been going with, though the latest ones are thinner. I've been wanting to get rid of the string and add a trigger, but never got around to it.

Nice, needs a gutter to keep the water away from the foundation.
Cool traps I started to go that route but complicated it by making a trigger. Whats the little pin by the spring sticking up?

>Nice, needs a gutter to keep the water away from the foundation.

Yeah it's a slab so no water problems. Mainly needs gutter to keep the mud from splashing on the siding.
>Whats the little pin by the spring sticking up?

Split bamboo needle to thread the string through the holes.
Janitors have very little power. Mods cover several boards and the only board that gets affected by a mod's power trip is /x/ for whatever reason.
and /tv/ and /sp/
Both of those boards are shells of what they once were

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any suggestions on what i should build to remove them?
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this reminds me. my dad works at the docks, his office is attached to the fish processing factory he manages. it being the docks, what with fresh fish and all sorts of offal, the seagulls like to hang around, shitting up all the equipment, dive-bombing the forklifts, causing all sorts of annoyances. so one day, my dad asks me where i got my thicc ass firecrackers from (like, coke-tin sized mothers) cause he wants to use them chase off the gulls. he buys two packs, and over the next few days goes out every couple hours or so and chucks one on the factory roof.

he ended up blowing 24 fist sized holes intpo the asbestos roofing, and the gulls never left.
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Enjoy wiping up bird remains over a quarter mile radius
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Around here a lot of businesses have what is essentially a birdlike kite on a pole on the roof.
I guess you need some wind to get it working, but I have never seen them lying down around here at least.

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Is residential framing a good career to get into? I want to get into a trade job and it's what I'm most comfortable and knowledgeable about (not that I'm that knowledgeable about any trades), but I'm worried if I can actually make a decent living out of it
Framing usually is how you get into the carpentry but you can live off it. At least around here. But be ready to work with the bottom of the barrel.
>Work with the bottom of the barrel
What do you mean by that? Like spics and shit? You might be right then yeah, but what's a good advancement then?
>Like spics and shit

Probably depends on where you live. I'm in NC near Raleigh, and I haven't seen a non-hispanic framer in many years.
You will never make good money doing something you don't have to go to school.for.
lead guy around here makes 20-25 per hr
Not big money by any standard. I like being outside so its no big deal most cant handle the weather extremes and hard, dirty work. I love it myself. Fuck being locked up in an office with 3 piece pussies and cunts

As far as you>>1594831
Love to have you say that on a job site cunt

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I Like Turtles Edition

Old thread: >>1585123

All the info you need about 3D-printing: https://pastebin.com/7Sb4TVdy

>Need help with prints? Go to:

If that doesn't help you solve your print problems, please post:
>A picture of the failed part
>Printer make & model
>Filament type/brand
>Bed & extruder temperature
>Print speed

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Year license. I renewed a few months ago; they never asked me to buy a thing.
New Thread
>I tried to rig a base body to sculpt armor on top
to pose just use the edit mode, I only use rigging for animation
Fuck, that's nice!
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>easy to use

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Arduino / AVR / PIC / STM32 / Embedded thread goes here.
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Thank you
It might sound like I'm trying too much in the beginning, but trust me, I'm largely competing with analog gauges, the nice thing about this project is that it requires basically nothing to be useful, and I can just improve on it a little at a time
Clearly you can
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>precision electronics but cant form basic English phrases
ESP32 has an internal reference voltage of 1V1.
I need some way to measure it with a multimeter. Any way to do that?
Basically i need to know what it is actually, because it is never exactly 1v1
why? it's most likely closer than you think (they are accounting for entire distrobution curve). I don't think you can use it anyways. But read section 30.3.4 on it's technical reference. that allows you to output 1.8 or 3.3 V reference

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poor babby, he had to learn that there is no such thing as 90 degree angles in a home the hard way
Your doin it wrong
Calm down faggot. Breathe. Now, what kind of wall? Method of attaching furniture to it will vary depending on construction material. Drywall? Drill holes, insert anchors, screw 'er up tight. Concrete? Different anchor, different drill, different bit, same basic procedure. Plaster and lath? Good luck son, you'll need it. What I'm getting at is we need more details if we're going to be able to help you.
>caulk and paint
>for the builder I ain't

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What's the most practical setup for going from PDF document to a halfway respectable physical book?

I've been reading books in PDF format and but I hate staring at a screen for that long and would rather hold a physical book. I had decided today to just print them out on whatever cheap $20 printer I have around, but then it occurred to me that it might be worth putting some token effort into binding them.
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there are lots of youtube stuffs but I am a beginner myself so take it with a grain of salt. the main thing to keep in mind is the kind of book binding you want to be doing. true book binding is the most common these days because its relatively simple, and involves either loose or relatively loose leaf pages being coated in adhesive to be perfectly joined to a spine. the type of which will determine the feel of the book. This is the easiest way to make a book's pages line up. When you use other methods, from staples to sewing, the pages will overlap and thus no longer be of the same exact x position. For ease of sewing folded pages can be stacked and individually sewn to the spine for approximate straightness, but the means to make the book appear perfectly straight require more cutting and working the spine. Depending on how well you press and fold the book or wrong sewing materials, the book may not lay flat correctly, or favor certain pages excessively and noticably. they can both produce good results, but there is a lot more that can go wrong with a non true bind. With loose leaf adhesive bind in true bind fashion, the point of failure is always the glue, the alignment on your leafs and amount of pressure on your press.
A print shop will make a print for like $20
soft cover though
I plan on doing this at such a frequency that going to a print shop wouldn't be economical--in some cases, ordering a used paperback version of what I'm reading would be substantially under $20.
Print two pages portrait on one side landscape A4 (so for pages per sheet total, watch the page order, you need to order them correctly), fold all sheets in half. Make folios (ofc they're not real folios as theyre made up of multiple sheets, so call them booklets if you're a purist) of maybe max 6 sheets per piece.

Now sew through the spine of each folio. Stack all folios on top of each other and clamp them, ideally in a bookbinder's vise but two planks and some glue clamps would work as well. Now sew the threadings of each folio attached to each other, making the actual book one piece.

Get two boards of cardboard or triplex somewhat larger than a single page and a strip of the same material the same length but with a width the same as the thickness of the book. Get a generously sized piece of cover material (sturdy paper, leather, PU leather, whatever) and glue the boards and the strip on it, with some room between the three. Glue the boards to the first and last page of the book which should be blank for this reason. Wrap the wrapping material over the boards and glue some nice lay-in paper over the first and last page so there's no fraying shit or whatever.

This is basic bookbinding, of course the challenge ks in doing it as neatly as possible after which you can experiment with more luxurious materials and methods or shit like illustrated covers, gold lettering and whatnot.

There's no fucking way you are going to do all this when you can buy the used paperback for under 20 burgerbucks though

I recently bought an old house with a painted brick foundation. Its damp as duck in the basement, probably because the concrete floor is all cracked up, but either way I would one day like to have it dry as possible so I can hang out down there. At the moment I tore down the old rotten porch at the front of the house, and I figure if it makes sense i should waterproof the front of the house from the outside before rebuilding the porch since I wont be able to do that once the porch is in place. So my question is: does this make sense? Or should I just waterproof from the inside? I just dont want to fuck myself over if I will need to do it from the outside some day. And if this is the thing to do, how should I do it? I have done a lot of searching that has just led me confused. I'm not sure if I should just use this liquid rubber stuff or if I need to install new drain tile or what. I mean the house is close to 100 years old so I'm sure the drain tile is bad, but I thought that was inside the basement walls? Anyway any advice would be much appreciated, I have no experience in this area of expertise and want to know what to do before I start digging up around my house. Thank you
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Cheapest stuff is gutters draining 3ft from foundation and keep soil around the foundation graded away. In my area french drains are a pretty common solution ie you can create a drain pit for all the water to collect that has lots of air space between rocks. As others said it's not really going to help much just sealing inside.
You don't seal the inside for an interior system you fucking moron. You actually do the opposite.
You absolutely should waterproof the exterior foundation before you put the porch back, I’m guessing the basement isn’t that deep to begin with so you might as well do it. Waterproofing material is going to vary based on soil composition, water table, locality, so get a few estimates from a foundation repair contractor and pick their brains a little bit, find out what they would use on your particular house before you just go slathering stuff on there.
Spray it on the inside with truck bed liner then spray foam insulation then truck bed liner again. The outside should have a layer of truckbed liner too. But, you must do >>1593923 too.
The trick is....will you get a decent contractor to work in Detroit?
I'm a tile guy, I won't work down there.

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OC Edition.
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please learn English.
You've been blessed with a friend
Can somebody explain what happened here/the potential consequences?

It's a drop of molten steel from welding on a pressurised container?
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What a magnificent bastard
One of the houses I refurb'd back in the crash had been owned by an electrician from one of the nearby auto plants. He'd rewired most of the house over the 30 years he'd lived there, adding lights & outlets everywhere.

You couldn't trust anything, wire color, gauge, circuit, nothing. I'd flip a breaker, verify the outlet was dead, then pop another breaker cutting the wire because he was using the bare wire to power another circuit. What a trainwreck.

I am making a mechanical sculpture that requires two servos and arms, able to move up and down through 90°. They will move independently through programmed sequences made up of "ups" and "downs", and I need to be able to add new sequences whenever through a program. Perhaps I will be able to program the sequences in through a physical controller like a knob for each arm, and they remember and repeat the sequence.

I have no experience in electronics or coding at all, although I am very practically capable, I can solder and am a good mechanical engineer. I just need to know where to start looking for information. Basically asking for a roadmap.

I know in robotics terms this is extremely simple. There are no sensors or multiple servos. Just 2 straight small arms with 1 servo each. All the tutorials I've found are for much more complex builds and include sensors, logic, Arduinos or whatever, which is more complex than I need to learn. Is there some kind of microcontroller that would suffice? Best way to program it for a beginner? Is it best to program such motions in terms of degrees of rotation? Ideally all the electronics would fit into a small box wthin the sculpture and it would be chargeable or plug into a wall. Thanks for any pointers to resources.
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god i love /diy/. morons who know a lot but know nothing.

Show me one legit source where they use current measurement to determine rotor position. There are so many BETTER ways to do this, like optical encoders or even hall sensors, that NOBODY EVERY FUCKS AROUND trying to determine rotor position by measuring the current. It's fucking stupid.

lol. /diy/

>haptic feedback VR systems use back emf and inductance for sensorless loops.

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Universal Robots arms use motor current sensing to estimate joint torque and end effector force
knowing exactly where your CNC tool is pretty goddamn useless if it hits something. That's what torque sensing is for. Force/torque sensing also lets the robot follow a shape that isn't known exactly. The robot just applies a constant force down. Sensing motor torque also prevents the robot from killing people.
any hobby servo out there will have a potentiometer for absolute position sensing.
this servo should(just barely) work.
Might work as long as it isn't moving too fast. Consider adding a counterbalance to each of your arms.

Good points. >>1593762 is full of shit. We design high-performance motion control systems and we almost never use optical encoders or any sort of shaft position sensor. It's all done by monitoring the winding current to each BDCM. All OP has to do is place a very low ohms resistor in each winding circuit and convert that voltage to a position value using a simple microcontroller and he will be able to put each axis precisely where he wants, and the device will be smaller and less expensive than anything with actual position feedback.
That's interesting. Is that using BLDCs? I imagine it's steppers? What sort of frequency of measurement do you get out of that if that makes sense (with optical encoders like how there's a maximum RPM for it to work satisfactorily) or is it just a limitation of the control system you're using?

Most ridiculous thing to stick a pit bike engine into?
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Grocery cart. Use a friction wheel to drive only one of the rear wheels. Sure and certain death.
The back window of a police car
Buy a $500 Geo, Hook that engine up to a blower m and attach it to the car’s air intake. Stick an injector in the Geo’s intake manifold and get a tank for water-methanol. Then figure out a starter and throttle for that whole system and you will have a supercharged meth injected Geo with a blown engine.
That picture gave me the 90s

Got a pen like the one in the image and I ended it up dropping it leaving a copper looking scratch on it. Was wondering what was the best way to get it looking semi new again? Was thinking of just painting it, but don't know what would be the best paint to use.
It just needs a shot of black.
any particular paint? I'd want one that wouldn't come off to quick and keep the matte black look of the pen
Use rustoleum flat black. Best spray paint hands down. Make sure its the “stops rust” line, not painters touch. Read the back label and follow the instructions. If you prep it and follow directions carefully, it will last the life of the pen. Remember to use light coats.
Sandblast it, put cerakote on it.
black marker or paint pen. color in scratch.

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/diy/ I want to build a murphy because I'm moving into a studio apartment soon. However, I won't be able to mount it to the walls so I need help on how to build one that's free-standing.

Any advice?
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You idiots do realize that landlords can sue you for any damages that end up costing more to repair than your security deposit covers right?
I wish you told me that before I burned my old home down.

This would never have happened if it was brick building.
Give the base of the case long feet outward?
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and give the far end of the swing out part little legs under or, no fuck that, make the frame slant fuck this Im drawing it.
Yeah, but they won't bother it the value is low enough.

I once got a default judgment in small claims court on a technicality because nobody from my corporate landlord bothered to respond to the notices or show up. Got my $750 back and avoided another $1000 they wanted to charge me because the notice I received was postmarked too long after my move out date.

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What's the best trade for someone with /diy/ skills? Personally I was thinking electrician.

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how many chromosomes do you have
fucking lol this thread
more than u fag
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