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/archery/ Thread #2

What's your style?
What you shooting?
What you hitting?
Recs for bows?
Why is the Timber Creek Mamba the best first horsebow?
Dampers are pretty dependent on what you do.
On compound, its not worth it unless you are competing/doing target style.

For recurve, it won't make a difference unless you are already doing well. It tends to come after stabilisers in the order of buying.
How cheap is it to get into Archery? Lets say a beginner bow & arrows + gloves or anything else you need? I've always been interested in it since I was a kid but never did anything about it. I don't know how seriously I would get into it, but I still think it would be fun to get a bow and practice at a range.
You can get a new Samick Sage with interchangeable limbs for like $160 on Amazon, arrow prices vary wildly but I ordered 12 basic wood shaft ones for like 50 bucks. After that a glove is like $15. Archery doesn’t really have to break the bank if you’re just getting into it.
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>at a range
if you don't plan to shoot on your own property or /out/doors, your local club will have bows for you to learn with. So it's as cheap as the club fee. Though you'll want your own bow once you're certain you'll keep going. If your club is any good they'll be happy to help you find a good deal on a quality bow.
What style(s) are you looking to try?
this >>138354 except buy from an actual archery shop, online or in person. Scamazon is how you lose money.
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>there's a range on base
>unlimited 24hour access for free
>move station
>there's nothing for miles on end
I didn't know how good I had it bros...
I got my first compound bow at a pawn shop for $30. Even got some arrows included. I had no idea what I was doing back then and just thought archery would be fun to try. That bow was not all that great but if ur ballin on a budget it gets the job done.

Also found out later the sights on the pawn shop bow alone cost $50 so that was cool.
Post the bow.
How was the condition?
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Made my own bow and string, no idea how to shoot really but it's been fun so far.
I didn't realize the archery thread was on /xs/ and just assumed no one did archery on 4chan

anyway, I shoot barebow and bought a Zniper rest this week so hopefully I can actually start hitting the middle instead of grouping to the left
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Nice anon, only tried fletching myself, rather satisfying. I'd recommend looking up Richard Head on youtube, they're a father-son duo of Bowyering and fletching. They have some good guides on there.
I know right, took me forever to find this, would've expected it on /k/ or /out/
Well done, lad. This looks great
That's really good man. You got any WIP images or a guide that you followed?

Grouping left is normal for a Med-draw bow, you need to either get better spined arrows, or aim off.
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Thanks anons, I followed Dan Satanas guide more or less. You don't need much more than some basic wood tools, a scale, and a lot of patience.

Learning to shoot now, my shots all seem to group right (shoot left handed). Is it normal to have to aim off even with correctly spined arrows?
>Is it normal to have to aim off even with correctly spined arrows?
If you are using med draw yes that's normal. Correct spine can help reduce that, but yeah it will fly right for a lefty
damn bros, I've been shooting like shit recently
I think I need a resistance band and some lat exercises
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After shooting a rental bow for a year, I've finally decided to buy my own. Well, most of it anyway. the only thing that was still rented are the limbs. The shooting feels completely different and the scope setup is slightly scary. I always screw the wrong way around. But I'm damn happy and feel like a kid on Christmas Eve. the only thing i regret is that i didn't start this sport much sooner
Looks good man, what is it?
How much was it?
What arrows?
>A Sebastien Flute ISO Pro 25" right handed
> two 12" Winners SMC stabilizer
> one 30" Winners SMC stabilizer
> avalon tec x duo v-bar duo mount
> Winners carbon scope spr-100
> 10 Cross-X Carbon Ambition Arrows with a spine of 1100 and 26,6" length

It would cost me arround 820€ (without the limbs). But the store I bought this from gave me the rent from the previous bow as a sort of discount, so I only paid 710€.

The limbs are some 66-28 lbs winners premium-a limbs (6 Month/25€). a nice upgrade from the 66-22 lbs limbs i had before
Can /archery/ recommend some good entry level guides, YouTube channels and other resources, for an archery noob looking to learn more about it?
Been taking a small, weekly archery course at college the last few weeks and am enjoying it quite a lot.
Nusensei is the go-to for most resources.
He has a video on every single aspect of archery and bows in general.
recently ordered my first real bow
>White Feather Forever Carbon 53" 60# version
any thoughts on this one what I am in for? or on korean horse bows in general. Does anyone have experiance with the White Feather bows?
This one seems identical to the daylite Monarq which seems to be a really good bow, I am hoping they are from same factory but just a rebranded version.
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I wish compound bows werent such a PITA to setup and fix. Ever since i got mine, nothing seems to go right.
Now to be fair, its my own fault for accidentally dry firing the thing (low poundage so only the strings broke). But even before that it was already giving me trouble.

>install peep
>it wont stay in right place even after twisting strings
>install d loop
>it stretches out way further than it should
>tie shit down
>the strings fray and unravel even after superglue
>carefully bow press and remount new string and cables
>cables slip to the side of the cable guard wheels
>not even getting into the bullshit on cam alignment, rest height, etc etc

This is after like hours of watching youtube tutorials. I dont get it how it just werks for other people.
I know a pro shop will fix it, but i dont wanna fork out 30-100 bucks every time something goes out of alignment.
33” arrow shaft
350 spine
Arrow grain 260
Arrowhead either 100 or 125 grain
60lbs bow

Did I fuck up? Are the arrows too light? Which grain head should I use?
anyone have any insight onto Killer Instinct or Barnett Crossbows? Also apologies if Crossbows are on a seperate board, I haven't talked about mine on this site in a couple years.
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I am on the complete other side of the spectrum (homemade longbow) and feel your pain anon.

>overspined arrows
>got them with vanes and not feathers
>tfw shooting off the hand
>have to learn how to fletch now
>homemade Flemish twist from aliexpress string material stretch's a random amount
>still trying to dial in brace height
>string kept slipping off
>had to recut the knocks
>bought cheap serving material
>its too thin so I have to double it up at my nocking point

The target I made works great at least lol
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All good skills to learn, that's one endgame for me as well, to be able to make a bow from scratch for those ultimate survivalist innawoods daydream scenarios.
For right now I need to stick with these 100-point-of-failure nightmare machines just so I can have something to hunt with. Not strong enough for high poundage recurve or trad bow
Do Arrowheads and the Arrow itself have to have an even distribution of grain? I need to have 500 grain arrows for the crossbow im going to get to prevent the limb from breaking and was considering some heftier practice heads for my 300 grain arrows for practice and some heftier ones after I get a feel for this crossbow, but I can just buy more heftier arrows from the get go if need be, just figured since I already have what I have and all.
I don't shoot a crossbow specifically, so I COULD be wrong, but generally it is desirable to have some front of center weight distribution. About 12-15% front of center gives the best flight characteristics. Hunters will typically go towards or above the top range as it tends to give better penetrating power. The weight of the arrow tip between the head and the insert can contribute significantly to the flex of the arrow, as the arrow head has greater inertia that the arrow bends against. Arrows with differently weighted arrow heads will group differently because they increase the compensation of archers paradox.
For a sixty pound bow that might be too light. Typically you need about 7 grains per pound (on the light side) to be easy on the bow itself, and for consistent arrow flight. If you put too much weight at the tip to compensate, your arrows are going to get real flexy, especially with a 33" arrow. You might have to go up in spine and find a heavier arrow. The Easton axis 5mm are pretty dependable in my book and dont destroy the bank.
>bought some cheap bow to practice because muh covid muh SHTF and was planning to make my own bow in future
>no decent hill to shoot at, so constantly lost arrows
>cheap-ass arrows were breaking easily
So either I have to build a huge archery range with catchers or start stalking the neighborhood in search of good spot...
And to duck-tape around the nocks for durability.
>I didn't realize the archery thread was on /xs/ and just assumed no one did archery on 4chan
I was surprised as well, with archery threads beign rather rare on /out/. Apparently doing anything outdoors is an extreme sport nowadays. Or maybe this board is so slow that anything goes.
I weighted them and they are around 435 grains total (with the 125 head). Its around 7.2 GPI with 60lbs bow.
Maybe I can add some fine thread +glue at the end point in between the arrow and nock to add weight?
>hit target
>use blank tips and hang a sheet from a tree branch, wire or thread to use as target as your arrows will just fall on the ground
>order some shafts and make your own arrows
Tips are pretty blunt already. The ground is simply soft af.
Anyone got any tips for getting into traditional bows?
Are they hard to maintain?.
I shoot a barebow recurve atm, I was thinking of getting a flat bow as they tend to atleast have arrow rests.
>Arrow rests
If you're not slicing your hand open on bare feather fletchings with each shot you're not doing it right.

Also by traditional bows do you mean self bows/long bows or anything that isn't made out of fibreglass/carbon/metal?
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Haven't shot for 18 years. thinking about going all out and getting the Mathews phase 4 kitted out it'll run like 2500 bones. Thoughts?
I don't know if the definitions are universal but here in England, traditional means longbows/flat bows/horse bows, basically bows that are historical and don't fit into barebow, olympic recurve or compound definitions.

I'm not looking to make my own bows as I don't have the space, tools or time

But yeah, I was wondering if anyone here knew if traditional bows were particularly annoying to take care of compared to modern bows
I have an ash selfbow, it's mostly just bees wax and trad oils like boiled linseed I use on it, nowt fancy just like the bow itself. It's literally a stick and string. I'd check the Youtube channels HistorySquad with ex Warwick Bowman Kevin Hicks or Richard Head Longbows. They have a good deal of information on longbows.
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I’m confused trying to calculate draw length. I use the wingspan divided by 2.5 technique and get a draw length of about 27.6” or 27.8”. If I draw an arrow and measure my length of draw, I get about 27.5” to 28”. Should I just round up to 28”?
Suggestions for beginners bow? I am interested in working my way up to hunting, so I suppose I should get used to compound. Where should I start? How do I avoid getting ripped off? Are second hand bows even an options & if so what kind of wear should I look out for. I know someone already said that your local club will set you up but I already know for a fact the dude that owns the local club owns the only sporting goods store in town that carries a lot of bows.

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