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File: OrianeBertone02.jpg (147 KB, 1969x1313)
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Tomboy summer edition

>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Get a friend, find your closest gym, go there and rent some shoes. Start with bouldering. Usually two colored tape-marks set the start of the route and the color of the tape is difficulty. Route is the same-colored grips up until the topmost grip (not edge of wall). There's usually a difficulty chart around the gym somewhere. Two hands on the last grip = you've sent it, congratulations.

>How do I start toproping?
You have to learn how to belay. Almost every climbing gym has toproping courses if they have toprope walls. Same grip-color system as with the bouldering, but here it's more common with each route having a specific grade instead of being within a range of grades. The grading system differs internationally and for style see here for more info: https://www.sportrock.com/post/understanding-climbing-grades

>I just bought a BeastMaker 2000™, will I finally git gud?
No, you'll just fuck up your tendons. Google "Eva Lopez fingerboard routine" to learn how to use a fingerboards safely.

(Eternally remembered as /bog/)

previous >>90725
>>
>>97457
Congratulations to Mejdi on his first World Cup bouldering gold medal. Congratulations to Natalia Grossman on 2/2 gold medals in Janja's absence.
Salt Lake city World Cup 2022 bouldering finals
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5fC7gSX2ivU
>>
Proud of my wife for her silver today. Big things to come.
>>
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>>97459
>Janjawinslol becomes Nataliawinslol
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>>97150
>Do gyms really need grades?
yes, you need to have at least someway of indicating the relative difficulty of routes for beginners, intermediate and advanced climbers so people don't injure themselves or waste their time
that said I think individually grading indoor climbs is dumb, the best way of doing it is setting climbs within a range V0-2, V1-3, V2-4 etc. that way people are encouraged to climb things that might be within reach but outside of their current limit which is the best way to progress
>>
>>97471
Yes, I expected nothing else.
Janja > Natalia >>>> the rest
>>
>>97465
The moid swing when Brooke was informed she didn't make the top in time on w1 was cute.
>Yayaya woo! :D
>huh?
>oh :(
>shuffles off the mat dejected
>>
>>97473
>the best way of doing it is setting climbs within a range
My gym did that, everyone hated it and they reverted back.
>>
>>97473
Have that in my gym, it's pretty cool and makes me tackle harder problems than I would normally do (I guess?)
>>
>>97473
>the best way of doing it is setting climbs within a range V0-2, V1-3, V2-4 etc.

That wouldn't work because people would just assume the middle ie:

V0-2 = V1
V1-3 = V2
V2-4 = V3
etc...

If you blocked out ranges like V0-2, V3-5, V6-8 or whatever, that might work better. But I'm still against it. Just tell me the grade and I'll make my own adult decision. This isn't Karate Kid. You're not going to magically trick people into getting swol.
>>
>>97645
>>97664
>>97672
I go to a pretty small bouldering only gym and the way they do it is about 1/3 of the total climbs are rated, then there are about half of the climbs that are just numbered 1-whatever without any difficulty grading, and the remaining wall space is used for competition style boulders rated Easy-Med-Hard mostly being very dynamic even on Easy grades. I'm still pretty new but I think it's a lot of fun to warm up on climbs I know I can handle followed by just throwing myself at random routes to try out different techniques just by eyeballing the routes.
>>
/fit/fag here, currently climbing once a week and don't have more time than that for the rest of the year.
Are there any scientific resources on how to progress best in a low frequency environment?
Currently I'm assuming that the most volume+intensity workout every week is optimal for me but that is just intuition (based on other fitness disciplines) which seems to be the theme in the climbing community.
Somewhat frustrated with how shitty most resources are, it's mostly pros who have climbed from child and live climbing as a lifestyle dishing out anecdotes.
>>
>>97719
Look up lattice training on youtube they have a bunch of stuff on the topic of training/nutrition/regiments
>>
>>97719
wow anon, you summarized exactly how I feel about how annoying it is to get into climbing later in life. Idk I guess if you're really committed, the best thing to do would be to get a hangboard and look into finger strength specific workouts.
>>
>>97719
Sorry only have anecdotes myself, but didn’t climb as kid…
A hangboard is probably your first and best step to progressing when you’re time limited, it’ll work the tendons and it’s tendons that are the slowest things to progress.
10s hanging off it while waiting for morning coffee, it’s a negligible time cost.
>>
>>97840
But actually there are opportunities at all times, dunno if it’s autism or if it actually helps but can and do do small exercises at any point where the hands are involved.
Why use a hand to pick up a bag when a ring finger would do? Why open a door with a hand when a fingertip will do? Etc, etc..

Half working on strength and half working on the other goal of climbing for myself - having the best everyday always carrying tools around. That being, hands.
Yeah… It might be autism but I’m not the only one I’ve seen doing it.
>>
>>97968
You are not the only one, but i might also have autism
>>
>>97968
I crimp edges and doorframes at work pretty often. Been working on specifically my back 3 and my index finger to balance out my crimp, seems to be working, crimp has been feeling much more solid lately.
>>
When is speed? Does anyone even care?
>>
>>98249
Here ya go:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilKcezCgwAU
>>
I got all confused about these Salt Lake City world cups. For some reason they decided to have two of them on back to back weekends. When I got the youtube notification I thought they were just reposting last week's. But nope. Brand new go around this time with fresh round of qualifications.
>>
>>98342
it's dumb as hell. no world cups for like 6 months and then 3 in 2 weeks or whatever. why.
>>
Started recently
What the fuck is up with all those people using chalk
I understand at high level but to do basic shit?
>>
>>98356
Have you tried using it? It makes a huge difference. Even slightly sweaty hand removes at least 30-50% grip strength or more due to lack of friction

You don't need to be very high level to need to use it indoors. Outdoors it's different since most of the materials naturally have more friction, so that's maybe an exception
>>
>>98356
Powered courage.
Gives +2 to DEX rolls.
>>
>>98383
Considering they coat the grips with that stuff, kind of I guess.
Idk it felt like the average person use it too much, subscription to the place feels already expensive so I don't want to spend more on chalk. Eventually when I'm better I guess.
>>
>>98392
Eventually yeah it’s worth it.
But $10 worth of chalk lasts me like 6 months so it hardly feels that expensive anyway.
>>
>>98392
Chalk is very cheap. Avoid the premium stuff. With the cost of gyms, shoes, resoles and other climbing equipment, complaining about the cost of a bag of chalk is almost silly.

Also, everyone is different. I've seen some literal sweatlords who are drenched in sweat after a simple boulder problem. But yeah, I see people who coat their hands with it. And I've had people come up to me and ask to borrow chalk because they don't have any.
>>
Will climbing get me autism qt gf?
I swear only people I know that are into this are on the spectrum.
I'm intrigued and I'm also not normal.
>>
>>98503
You've gotta be fit. None of these chicks are gonna give the time of the day to some loaf.
>>
>>98504
Good thing I'm a skeleton.
Programing takes its toll on body.
>>
>>98509
>skinny white software developer with slight autism takes up rock climbing in his mid-twenties

How original
>>
>>98517
I'm tired of being original.
Being original does not make me happy.
>>
>>98518
I just thought it was humorous. Nothing personal. Rock climbing might be right up your alley. Give it a try.

And yes, climbing is a good way to meet people even if you are autistic.
>>
>>98509
Being skele doesn't mean you're fit either. It just means you aren't fat. But it does mean you should be able to gain muscle pretty easily.
>>
Congratulations to my wife for her bronze today! Big things to come.
>>
>>98544
Out of how many competitors? What would you have done if she didn't podium.
>>
>>98545
Congratulate her anyway because I am always happy when my wife climbs well.
>>
Any tips on lack of progression burnout?
I've been stuck on the same grade at my local gym for going on 6-8 months now and it's not even advanced. Never dealt with proper grades since this gym has its own system but it'd be solidly intermediate for sure.

I can destroy the grade one below so it's getting old going to the gym to flash the climbs I've done a million times and literally not even be able to do the first move on the grade above.

None of my friends are interested in climbing so I also go alone which makes it even less fun
>>
>>98571
Learn how to properly project a climb and spend 2-3 sessions almost exclusively on one problem. Hard problems are hard for a reason, and projecting is a specific skill required to send hard routes.
As a bonus, if you spend 2 hours on the same climbs it is likely that somebody better will come along and try it and they might be able to teach or show you some new beta or techniques.
>>
Dear /xs/, how long does it take to break in a new pair of climbing shoes? I bought my first pair and used them for the first time today. The pain cut my time at the climbing hall short by more than I felt was fine. What can I do to speed up the process, wear them around the house? I really want to have this as my summer hobby and do it a lot. Many thanks in advance.
>>
>>98589
Some shoes I wear and take off in between climbs until they break in (usually I can keep them on almost the whole time). Shouldn't take that long because it shouldn't be that painful too begin with.

These latest pair were absolutely painful after each climb. But I liked the shoes and I'm a stubborn bastard, so I used a set of shoe stretchers and now they're completely roomy. I cranked the expander a little bit each day for weeks until I was satisfied.

My first advice tho is return them and get a bigger pair.
>>
>>98589
about a week for me. your mileage may vary.
>>
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>>97457
Im thinking about getting into climbing, is free climbing really THAT dangerous? Like if im just doing some low level stuff like pic related
>>
>>98621
Yes. Even rope soloing is something for advanced climbers.
>>
This pic is cute, its from Seoul but I had not seen it yet. I am sad Ori missed out on both Salt Lake finals.
>>
>>98572
This is good advice, thank you
>>
>>98678
Nice. I'm sure a few of the athletes who just missed finals were grimacing a bit when they saw the setting the top 6 got. Semis had higher difficulty.
>>
>>98621
>is free climbing really THAT dangerous?
Yes. However, you have options if you don't want to deal with ropes and climbing buddy. There are tons of good outdoor bouldering spots. You just need a good crash mat. The stuff free climbers do is in the category of easy to low moderate for their ability. They normally do the climb with rope several times before attempting without. Nobody is pushing their limits without a rope. One slip and you're toast.
>>
to be clear, free climbing just means you're not using aid. free solo is climbing without a rope).

(side note: wouldn't top-rope soloing fall within the free solo category?)
>>
>>98736
>wouldn't top-rope soloing fall within the free solo category?
No
>>
>>98621
>>98628
>>98727
For some reason the people responding to OPs question is mixing free climbing and soloing.
Free climbing encompasses traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and soloing where soloing is obviously the most dangerous as you have no rope protecting you from a fall.
> is free climbing really THAT dangerous?
No. There are risks and I know people with torn achilles' and I got a heavy sprain a month ago myself, but it's almost always because of human error. Gear very rarely fail so if you learn good habits and follow them you're pretty safe.
>>
>>98770
>Free climbing encompasses traditional climbing, sport climbing, bouldering and soloing where soloing is obviously the most dangerous as you have no rope protecting you from a fall.
Yeah, but he can't have meant that. 9/10 odds he just watched Free Solo and thought "free climbing" meant climbing without safety, because nobody has ever said that "free climbing [with carabiners, cams, rope, belay partner etc.] is THAT dangerous". More likely someone who doesn't climb simply doesn't know all the proper terminology.
>>
>>98742
obviously it doesn't, but semantically I don't see why not. top-rope soloing is free climbing, and it's solo. free solo.
>>
>>98786
>top-rope soloing __ ____ ________, ___ __'_ ____. ____ ____
>>
>>98786
semantically it's an even bigger no, its got fuckin rope in the name.
>>
>>98594
>>98611
I'm back, there was a big difference between the first and the second time and today is my third session. This is fun! I'm doing it together with pulling lifts for a pull day and I think it's going to work out well, still trying to figure out the details but it'll be great.
>>
>>98678
shes so cute bros
>>
anyone else find her incredibly annoying?
>>
>>99186
don't care or know about 'famous' climbers, who is she?
>>
>>98405
Did they give it back after they finished climbing?
>>
>>98589
Sounds stupid, but socks can make new shoes a lot more comfortable, give ot a try.
>>
Think I've got climber's elbow lads
>>
>>99192
mari salvesen. idk if shes pete whittakers gf or something but she films for his channel, and talks incessantly
>>
bros how retarded am I for still climbing in shoes that have holes in the front? They're too far gone to be repaired and I'm too cheap to buy new ones right now. Should I just use these until they fail catastrophically and then use rentals?
>>
>>99263
just do your thing dawg
>>
>>98390

That's cocaine, not chalk!
>>
>>99368
Nah coke is +2 to WILL rolls.
But why not both?
>>
>>99368
Some items are multiuse.
>>
>>99263
Frugal king. Climbing shoes aint cheap.
>>
>>99186
I find her voice cute
>>
>>99186
No, not at all.
>>
>>99263
The case against rental shoes is that it's more expensive over time, used by other people and never conform to your own feet.

You should be resoling your shoes until they can no longer be repaired and then buy new shoes. This is the most economical path. Otherwise, it's like poor people buying everything on credit, but wind up paying more because of the interests.
>>
>>99263
if you have access to REI garage sale events and can stomach the thought of wearing used climbing shoes, you can find them for dirt cheap
>>
>>99558
>REI garage sale events
They aren't events anymore it's constantly ongoing in store. That's how I got my pair of basically new TC pros for $70. Most the time people get shoes too small sometimes people destroy shoes and return them before the year is up
>>
>>99247
every so often it feels like my knee is gonna explode until i crack it. im 22, is this normal?
>>
>>99571
my coworker told me to take collagen but idk if thatd help or not
>>
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Why isn't rockmaster posting the qualifier videos?
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>>99584
God what a skelly..
>>
How do I fix over gripping? My middle finger started really hurting ~6 months into climbing, and it got better after I started taping it, and focusing on my grip. Now that I'm trying to move on to other focus points, I notice my over-grip creeping in again. Do I just need more time on the muscle memory? I'm getting tired of running the same V2/V3s trying to focus on my grip.
>>
>>99615
>My middle finger started really hurting
listen to your body and take a break
>>
>>99615
Stop overgripping.
>>
>>99185
it is known
>>
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>>99736
My wife>your wife
>>
>>99736
the cutest french tomboy!

>>99805
I absolutely despise her fake smile
>>
>>99821
she does give off an "I hate everyone" vibe. still cute though.
>>
>>99821
Would you smile if your best friend always outclassed you at everything?
>>
>>99904
Why not?
>>
The great debate: wooden walls or friction walls? What does /cg/ prefer?
>>
>>100150
Friction walls because they are a better simulation of outdoor climbing where you can smear just about anywhere, which ends up being a technique you use quite a bit outdoors.
>>
>>100150
I like mixing it up. My current gym is all wood though.

>>100151
Doesn't this depend on the type of rock you're climbing on? Some rock is pretty polished right?
>>
>>100153
Sure there is but you can still smear on something in most cases.
>>
>>100150
Rock. I started out indoors but outdoors really is much better, I never climb indoors except during winter.
>>
>>100251
fascinating thank you

>>100153
some of the basalt around me feels like climbing on glass
>>
>>100150
Right now wood. Feels like that has to respect the intent of the routesetter and I also don't leave the gym with bleeding legs and hands as often
>>
God fucking dammit, the VPN shat itself before the end of boulder 3
I wanna see if Natalia gets btfo by Hannah... greedy IFSC cunts, I hope they get bombed
>>
Brixon world cup boulder finals, women:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WsE34CKp1A8
>>
>>100554
Oh wait, it's spelled Brixen. Righto.
>>
>>100554
It's a weird lineup for the final. 4 out of the 6 had never made a WC bouldering final before.
>>
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Zhilu Luo looked really good in this wc for a 16 year old fresh out of juniors. I don't remember seeing her in last years junior world cup. Looks like she won Chinese National games all around category last year. Could be future olympian if she keeps it up.
>>
>>100554
No Oriane in this one. She couldn't make it. Injured finger in training and also got sick right before.
>>
>>100554
Where is mens?
>>
>>100616
semi finals coming up in about 5 bong 30 bing. same channel.
>>
>>100617
Sweet. I swear the last few have been back to back. Might watch the women's while I wait if it's not just the usual suspects.
>>
>>97672
just colour grade it. Gumbies are not going to care what the colours equate to into V grade and decent climbers will probably climb and make their own decision anyway.
>>
>>100637
This. Most gyms in Australia just colour grade.
>>
>>100639
yeah speaking from experience :). Just makes no sense when gym grades vary so much from region to region. I've seen videos of routes that look really fun irrespective of grade, but the captions are like gym v8/9 and it's so clearly a v6 max. I'm not a fan of grade chasing but I feel like some of these grades are just negligent, and just bad for the community.
>>
>>100637
What's a color grade?
>>
>>100640
>gym v8/9 and it's so clearly a v6 max
Really can't tell from a video unless you touch the holds. How many times have you been shut down on a problem that looked like a cake walk from the ground?
>>
>>100661
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Partially_ordered_set#Strict_partial_order
>>
Nataliawinslol. Hope she enjoys it to the fullest while it lasts.
>>
>>97457
having in mind that this is the only thread of climbing for now in 4chan, i have a question, what is the best brand of chalk (not liquid pls)?, i don't really want to spend money changing my prefers (black diamond),
>>
>>98621
If i have to be honest with you, i think if you want to fdstart climbing, the only think you need to know is how to belay properly (and your partner too pls) and create a routine for safety, that includes chequing your gear and your partner gear, and please warm up before climbing and do some stretch after, i been through tendinitis, bursitis and one big muscle strain in my back (and damn 15 months without climbing and the difficult of sitting straight is depressing). In other dimension of safety is very good the sport, always use helmet (or at less the belayer) and if you have doubts search in YouTube, the community is very good and there is a bunch of videos with the propose of teach to new climbers.

pardon my English and greetings from Chile.

also, this rock seem very good to me and if you are living in the place you took the picture, the opportunity to be a good climber and have a lots of fun is... you know.
>>
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Brixen Men's final:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEdX-flUTzo

This one was very exciting all the way to the end. Tough setting but not ridiculous. My shoulders hurt in sympathy after watching. I think the setters did a great job for this event. Innsbruck next on the 22nd! It will be boulder and the first lead of the season.
>>100764
Yep. To her credit she's doing a great job snatching all the available gold medals she can.
>>
>>100836
Did they put a downwards dyno? I thought they stopped doing those because of safety reasons.
>>
>>100677
most i've been off it by a v grade unless its fucked beta. I can usually read a sequence and estimate a grade from it. If you see a roof climb thats entirely incut jugs, you can be pretty sure it's not v8
>>
>>100661
so ordinarily you've give a v grade or font grade which is supposedly universal across the world (even though it isn't) colour grades essentially just give a colour (lets say green) to a grade or grade band (v6 - v8). Basically don't tell the climbers the equation and just let them climb the problems based on what colours they're used to
>>
>can climb V9 indoors
Can barely climb V6 outdoors
What did my gym mean by this?
>>
>>100854
I thought outdoor/indoor bouldering grades were supposed to even out at like V8 lol. Maybe you go to one of those gyms I see on instagram where a V8 looks like a V5
>>
>>100836
>Brixen Men's final:
>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FEdX-flUTzo
Did those fuckers took it down?
I was watching it in the morning then went to do some stuff and now it's gone.
>>
>>100858
Usually its dependent on what the setters climb outdoors imo. If the setters climb V7 outdoor then everything until then will feel easier than the grade assigned, but once you hit the grade they climb at, it's gonna be a steep increase in difficulty
>>
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>>99821
I love big mouths. Also my climbfu>your climbfu
>>
>>100910
Looks like it. Wonder why. Did the camera linger on someone's buttocks a bit too long?
>>
>>100966
>my climbfu>your climbfu
yes
>>
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is the rope handling dangerous in pic? ive never used ropes outdoors before, but even to me this seems pretty risky.
>>
>>100998
yes, but only if the rope moves to left or right, and also it's different if it is a static or a dynamic rope
>>
>>97457
wow, that women looks like she is climbing!
>>
>>100843
That one probably wasn't intended as a dyno. There's no rule that athletes can't do it as a dyno if they wish though.
>>100910
It seems to be up now.
>>
>>101015
oh right. but why not negate the risk altogether and just use an edge protector?
>>
>>101096
hahaha, i guess the problem whit the edge protector is the possibility to lose the position in lateral moves like a making a pendulum or etc,but idunno man y never in my life used a edge protector
>>
>>101057
>region block
So tiresome
>>
>>101124
Same :( i wanted to see the downwards dyno :(
>>
>>101124
IFSC is such bullshit. The moment they get a slight viewership bump they pull this garbage.
>>
Oof, Magnus suffering is hard to watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cyya23MPoAI
>>
>>101588
No it isn't. His Marine training was good. Him in the Wide Boyz cellar was good too.
>>
Ive been climbing boulders for about 2 weeks now and sent my second v4 yesterday, am i on track or just wasting my time? People say im doing good but it feels like the type of feedback you'd give to an autistic kid who just did a cartwheel. "Oh wow, that's really sick dude, nice send!!!" Love the community but people are a little too nice there, i need to know if im lagging or getting ahead. So far i really enjoy it though, i used to work attic insulation and took to it like an addict to meth. It seems like i found a comfort spot in the v4s and im going to start to project all the ones at my gym.
>>
>>101614
>am I on track?
on track for what?
>need to know if I'm getting ahead
getting ahead of whom?

what are your climbing goals?
>>
>>101614
>Ive been climbing boulders for about 2 weeks now and sent my second v4 yesterday
that's ok, slow start but fine.
if you're at least a bit athletic you can start at v5/6 but I'm sure you'll still go your way
>>
>>101614
why do you need to be on track? can't you just enjoy climbing for it's own sake?
>>
>>101614
i don't know how to explain this, other than to talk to you like
>an autistic kid
No one fucking cares what you climb. There's no set progression for how quickly you climb what grade.
>>
>>101619
>>101656
On track as in im improving normally, where were you guys in your first few sessions? idk im always hard on myself and assume im terrble when starting things, i guess my goal is to get to v6+. im currently just watching youtube tutorials and climb 4-5 days a week with the other 2 days being gym days. Besides youtube are there any other good sources of info on techniques? Currently i need to work of technique and flexibility, strength is definitely my only strength right now, the v4s i am sending are mostly pinch and strength related, i cant hold a slab or chip for my life.
>>101646
Im currently an immigrant from fit, idk if its an issue but im 5'11 with no body fat that weighs 180 lbs. Guys at the climbing gym i go laugh about how i definitely have the strength but i feel as though i have zero flexibility and weigh to much. Most of the people there are thinner. Im kind of short and stocky
>>
>>101684
>climbing 4-5 times a week as a beginner
Bro you're going to send your fingers to snap city if you aren't careful.
>>
>>101684
It's not a race dog. Take it easy. 4-5 times is pushing it, especially as a beginner.
>>
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>>101588
>>
>>101684
Climb outside to really know what V grade you are at
>>
>>101646
>if you're at least a bit athletic you can start at v5/6 but I'm sure you'll still go your way

these professional gymnasts are falling off v4
https://youtu.be/IfKDKVlHEfc

>>101684
grades are gym-dependent but projecting v4 in two weeks is a very fast progression. I would expect to see your progress slow as you reach the limits of your finger strength and climbing technique. as others have implied, climbing 4-5 days a week is pretty intense for a beginner. building strength in your finger tendons will take some time and overtraining can lead to injury.

>most of the people there are thinner
you're going to make me post Matt Fultz again... 5'11" 160-170lbs and one of the best boulderers in the world
>>
>>101614
>Ive been climbing boulders for about 2 weeks now and sent my second v4 yesterday
Wtf, how?
I've started bouldering 8 months ago and can't do V3 consistently
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>>101749
Other than gym grades differing between gyms, small stuff like the confidence not to overgrip, trusting your feet a bit more, willingness to smear, knowing how to engage the right muscles, having a little more sense of balance etc. matters a lot for beginners. I think it evens out in the long run if you both make an effort to learn.
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>>101588
Don't like how he's basically encouraging free solo. That shit should die out faster than the climbers doing it
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>>101821
I don't think he's encouraging it. It was pretty clear the whole time that he hated it, and he said he'd never do it again.
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>>101824
he probably didn't even watch it
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>>101749
Seconding this. Been climbing for almost a year and have only sent a few things that I'm confident are V4 or above (my gym grades in a range).
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When I put a lot of weight on a kneebar I sometimes get a shooting pain up my leg along with a weird tingle/numbness. The pain never lingers very long.
What is this and is it a problem?
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>>101821
Dunno, in the video Honnold says some of the people he used to solo with are now dead, that felt like the most for/against moment in it.
>>
I seriously doubt anyone encourages or are encouraged by these types of dangerous activities. It's like watching someone tightrope across the Grand Canyon, or free dive to depths that have killed divers using scuba. You awe at the skills of these extreme and crazy individuals, but never go out and buy a tightrope the next day.
>>
>>101846
I used to get the same thing doing knees in muay thai. I wonder if it's related
>>
started outdoor climbing 2 months ago and got hooked instantly but i have got two problems rn. first i am weak as hell and second are my shoes. i have boight them 2 sizes smaller (my foot is 47 and shoes are 45 (EU) and first knuckles on thumbs hurt like hell. any tips on how to strech them?
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>>101903
The main thing that annoys me about free solo climbers is how I have to explain so much to people that I don't and would never free solo. It seems like everyone that learns I climb immediately jumps to asking about free solo and I have to say
>No. Free solo is like what Evel Knievel did on motorcycles. It's a dangerous stunt and not normal or encouraged.

But I guess as climbing continues to become mainstream, people will just figure that out.
>>
>>101684
V6 is a good goal. I went from DYEL V1 to V7-8ish in about a year by climbing 3-4 days a week and doing lifts and runs twice a week in between those. Since you're already fit, technique will be your big limiting factor at first and then targeted grip strength after that. Just make sure to do benchpress or a lot of pushups if you start to hurt in the elbows and you should be fine to sustain your routine you listed.

I would say V3-4 should be where you hang out the first 3 months as you learn how to twist your feet and perform specific moves. Then you should be able to move up without needing to get stronger and probably will get stuck around V6 unless you were to really double down on climbing specific exercises. That said, V8 is a realistic goal for about two years if you stick with that routine you listed. Just remember, it's more important to be consistent and safe than it is to go hard in one specific workout. You can always come back when you stop, but you might not come back from an injury.
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>>101934
Your shows will stretch with time and eventually feel like they fit well if you climb consistently. For your hands, pushing is always the answer to pulling. Do push-ups or get against a wall and lean into it with your palms spread. That should help your thumbs and other fingers a little. If it's really intense or moves to your elbows, try benchpress.
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>>101934
>i have boight them 2 sizes smaller (my foot is 47 and shoes are 45 (EU)
Good.
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>>101711
fultz is a monster
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>>101934
>any tips on how to strech them?
Go climb. FYI if the shoe is synthetic/vegan its not gonna stretch
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>>101824
Well at one point he said that he considered it safe. Sure, he applied a huge asterix afterwards, but still. And at the end of the day: he still did it.
>>
>>101685
>>101700
How often would be healthy? Im gonna bump it down to 4 climb days and 3 gyms? Im getting 2-3 hour sessions when i go climbing
>>101711
>>101938
Ive definitely seemed to have found my stalling point at v4, ive bumped myself down to the 2-3s so i can focus on technique. I could send ***some*** of the other 4s at my gym but would spend multiple days gassing myself trying.
>>101749
Ill be honest im brute forcing most of my climbs rn, the v4s i have sent are super overhang and pinch related.
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>>102085
The level of the climb is such that he could literally do it with one arm tied behind his back and still onsight it, that's why it's safe.
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>>101702
Living in the canadian prairies is a passport stamp and 3 hours of driving to the closest boulders let alone cliff. Might go to Squamish when i get gud though.
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>>101846
You got bad knees bro.
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>>101928
hmm, could be.

>>102198
Yeah, I fell for the running meme. Guess I'll just stick to bouldering.
>>
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Is Janja in Innsbruck for lead?
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>>101934
Wear them in the shower and then for a while after the shower. They will stretch a bit and give you a custom fit even if the upper is synthetic.
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>>Should I start climbing?
>Yes. Get a friend,
I guess I can't climb then
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>>102698
There are all kinds of ways to climb without a friend, it just makes it safer and easier.
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>>102698
You'll also make friends there, friendo. Just ask for the beta and see where it takes you
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>>102698
>I guess I can't climb then
You got that right
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>>102710
Can confirm, I've had people try to befriend me while climbing. Fucking disgusting shit, can't stand it.
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>>102746
I'll straight up suck someone's dick if they're willing to give me a belay on short notice and are actually stoked about climbing outdoors. so sick of sitting inside while the season comes to a close.
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>>102324
yes.
>>
watching the replay of the women's boulder finals, holy shit is it good
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>>102765
the slowmo's make for excellent webms, hope some more technically adept anons are mining it
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>dj playing "umbrella" whilst it's pissing down
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>>102766
post some timestamps and I'll do it (on Monday when I get home)
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>>102773
shall do, the afl is on now so there's a long day of footy to go but sure.
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>>102759
this looks needlessly runout
>>
I wonder if the German team changed something this year. New coach on staff or new... something. If only Hannah or only Jannick had improved so much this year I wouldn't have been surprised, but seeing BOTH get a lot better than they were last year is interesting.
>>102324
Yep. She's doing lead this season. Just took a break from bouldering.
>>102765
I just finished watching. Awesome competition.
>>102698
You can do bouldering by yourself. Climbing gyms make it pretty easy to find belay buddies though.
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>>102780
bullshit route. he just reached the first bolt in that photo ~25 feet up. there's one other bolt on the route and it's 5 feet above the first one. there might be some clever placements for gear but I didn't see any. pretty as hell though and it's only 5.7.
>>
Holy fuck the
>V something (V something else in my gym)
meme is actually true?
I've been bouldering for nearly a year now and thought I was stuck at 5C+ for a few months now.
Went to a different gym today and wow, the 6B's were easier there than the 5C's in my gym.
WHAT THE COMPLETE FUCK??
So I'm actually "stuck" at around 6B/6B+ which is absolutely fine I think, but I can't wrap my head around how that's possible.
Having 6A being 6A+ or 5C+ in another gym is understandable but something like 5B=6A and 5C=6B sounds just stupid
>>
>>102773
hannah muell's hand shakin\g was super kino
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>>102818
as others have said: gym grades are arbitrary; climb outdoor boulders to really get a measure of your ability. not uncommon for gyms to vary by a couple v-grades, depending on what kind of clientele they're trying to attract.
>>
>>102818
Or you really are stuck at 5C and the other gym is inflating....

Don't think too much about it. Gym route setters are just normal dudes doing their best at estimating grades. Some are good, some are bad, some inflate, whatever. As long as you make progress WHEREVER you are, that's the main thing.

Besides, that 6B is just a 5 in my gym.
>>
Innsbruck lead semis on now. Men and woman at same time. About 18 climbers in. Lots of big names coming up.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fTxZffkH6Do
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>>98589
if the fit feels very uncomfortable and hard u can try soften the shoe with some steam from water cooker, and then wearing it for some time, which can just be at home, this will make the shoe "age" faster and generally will make the shoe softer which is comfortable but also gives the shoe less support, but if ur new, go for it u will likely only profit from a softer shoe at this point anyway
>>
>>98571
u will hit a wall at some time eventually, only way to improve is to get more involved in training finger strength, overall fitness and lose weight

i assume the holds are to hard to hold, not the moves itself are to hard, investigate the training area in your gym
>>
>>102818

does your gym have a Kilter Board? it works well to understand grading on a Worldwide Level
>>
Nataliawinslol.
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>>102952
No, but if I find one in another gym I'll try it!
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>>102977
I honestly didn't expect to be that """bad""" in lead
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Are jap's fingers just more slippery than whites?
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OH NO NO NO NO
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>>103005
Stop "OH NO NO"-posting and communicate like a human.
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>>103005
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>>103005
Me thinking that women's lead final route was a bit overcooked. Janja: hesitates half a minute longer than her usual, solves that crux, plows onwards several more moves and leaves everybody in the dust. Jesus. She said in the interview after that she thought that was the hardest world cup lead route she's ever done. Then said it was awesome and she hopes the route setters do more hard stuff in future.
>>
>>102986
Their shoes rubber and chalk are from the other side of the planet so the molecules are aligned differently due to the magnetic poles, leading to sub-optimal grip in European competitions.
>>
is 6'1" too tall to git gud at bouldering
feels like everyone who is good at gym climbing is a 5'8" chinese guy
>>
>>103113
look up Jan Hojer

at least in my gym the best guy is taller then me (6´) and one guy als really good is like 6´5"+

so no, bouldering good in grades above 7a/b is like 90% strong fingers
>>
Anyone else feel like they have no source of joy outside of outdoors projecting days?
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>>103146
All I do is work and climb, if I got seriously injury and couldn't climb for a year I would probably kill myself.
>>
geek climber fucking sucks
how does this guy not use fucking chalk
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>>103165
>how does this guy not use fucking chalk
chalk is for the weak
>>
Will non-Europeans be at the European Games?
Would miss the Japanese and Koreans.
Americans can stay at home though
>>
fifnished toil, nats jus bout tofalsh problem 2. whats the vibe been like?
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kinda torn; exciteed for teh aryan princess Hannah buy Miho is such a p0werful yet fkawaii womanly climber
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>>103053
Pretty sure route setters just bump routes and boulders up half a french grade whenever Janja is in the finals.
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>>103165
Magnus was so uncomfortable throughout that entire video. Was fucking awkward to watch.
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>>100998
Yes. The rope sliding on the edge left/right can burn through the rope pretty quickly.

So rope protector is strongly advised.

If you want to be extra protective, then you can also just place some piece of equipment after the edge and clip the rope into that with a clove hitch to prevent rope drag over the edge altogether.
>>
HONESTLY HOPED Hannah would gt the gold
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>>103292
sometimes I think the videos with Anton are a little awkward, like they're only pretending to be friendly on camera, but this video just showed that they had absolutely no business doing a collab video with each other, especially right after the last video with fucking Alex Honnold.
>>
>>103292
i don't think he really liked the energy bar either
>>
>>103310
Anton isn't as fluent in English and in the last video they said they haven't seen each other in three years, due to living on different continents. Anton isn't a good climber either, Alex and Magnus can talk about climbing in a way Magnus and Anton can't.
>>
If you want to see Magnus being awkward, watch his videos with Adam Ondra. Magnus is like a schoolgirl on the verge of fainting because her beloved senpai noticed her.
>>
>>103314
It gets better after the first video in the climbing gym.
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>>102018
I can imagine how hard it is to breathe while keeping your body this tense
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>>103257
For me it's Futaba Ito
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>>103278
They overreacted to all the tops in the semis i think.
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innsbruck looks so comfy
>>
this eurotrance is the fucking WURST
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>>103336
NEED an Ito action figure
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Recently got into bouldering and living it, actually annoyed that I cant go more often since my forearms are completely destroyed.

Is there some particular technique to use when jumping down? When you cant climb down or slip I mean. Had no problen with it but always felt very "weird" when it happened.
>>
>>103456
If possible check if the landing zone is free with a shoulder check before jumping off. Can't tell you how often I have almost collided with oblivious idiots or running children.
Generally try to downclimb halfway before jumping off. Obviously that's not always possible.

On high jumps try to land on both of your feet and then roll backwards over your ass and back to dissipate the energy. Your knees will thank you in a few years. Especially if you are on the heavier side.

Also don't lock your knees obviously.
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>>103460
Thats good to know, thanks for the advice, appreciate it anon
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>>103257
Miho is one of the prettiest japanese ladies i have seen in general. And she has amazing thighs.
>>
If you guys were going to climb a skyscraper with vacuum suction cups, what would your setup look like?
>>
Someone should make a mixed tournament without sex separation.
I want to see how far Janja can go against the males.
>>
>>103632
that would be damn interesting to watch, I imagine she's so fucking good she could actually compete with the guys and probably not even come out last
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>>103632
she said on a podcast (nugget I think?) that she could win in a men's tournament if the boulders were in her style. and she's not the type to brag.
>>
>>103160
Holy shit are you me?
>>
is there no stream for Villars reeEeEE
>>
By the way Europoors can watch IFSC competition streams on youtube with a VPN. Just change your exit node location to the US.
>>
>>103113
That's just what your gym is like, in the same city I know one gym filled with Chinks (in particular chink women paired with white bois), in the other gym there's rarely an Asian of any kind.



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