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File: dopefish.jpg (49 KB, 500x500)
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what's in your quiver lads?

trying to talk myself down from buying one of these. was going to get a firewire seaside but don't want to be a chinafag.
>>
>>680
is this going to replace the threads in /out/ and asp? also being a chinafag is more comfy than an overpriced board from a shaper
>>
>>680
That's /kkc/

Did you just come up with it or was there really a surfing general? I have never seen it if so.

I just returned from a session, it was onshore and quite messy with undertow and currents, just a beach break. I got a nice frontside ride, I don't know if I can call it a right because it was a series of interconnected reforms I think, but generally I got afraid to go out the back.
>>
Boards are for fags
>>
>>1455
You'll change your tune once you get caught in a good rip.
>>
>>1512
Suck my anus what kind of loser can't avoid the riptide
>>
>>1711
OK Triton
>>
>>680
not a fan of performancey type fishes myself
just get a shortboard in that case
also firewires are fucked
what are you looking for in a board
>>754
kook
>>
>>2390
my mate had a seaside and it was great fun, but i'd feel like a proper dickhead if i spent £600 on a pop out board with all the great shapers around here.

hardly know anyone who rides 90s style toothpicks anymore. it's midlength city out there and everyone going shorter is going for fishes, quad perf fishes, thrusters and grovellers. even the big shredders tend to have a few more pints in the tail just to get them going.
>>
>>1348
it's constant slop here in cornwall. there's been good swell for about two months solid, but has been actually decent conditions for maybe 7 days total.

hard fucking work even when it is on. sets easily 7-9ft coming in and breaking all over the place so getting out is a chore and when you're there there's every chance you get caugh inside by a rogue outside set and wash up in the killzone.

makes miss getting the log out for the glassy 3-4ft dry hair days of summer.
>>
>>2835
Are you Australian?
What's a pint? Isn't a thruster a shortboard already? What's a groveller?
>>
>>2390
>firewires are fucked
Care to elaborate? I got sucked into GoFish which is still a fun perf fish but jesus christ it's fragile. I'm eager to hear of any internaltional alternatives as well.
I surf trash barrels on the Jersey shore though. Few local shapers offer anything I want without needing to pay extra for a custom shape.

>>2835
I still have my early 00s Lost toothpick. Still a piece of shit to this day. I'm all for the chode board revolution.
>>
>>2885
I just want cleaner, more orderly conditions. The problem with me is that I started getting panic-like attacks since last May and I'm afraid if they catch me outside (pun not intended). Unironically I feel safer with crowds, I just get so, so lonely and alienated from anyone out the back, even if there people I know there.
It must have something to do with me getting a gf, because it's not a relationship I pursued.
Or, it must be me realizing my faults as a person and not wanting to admit them. Or that's only how a panic attack feels, feeling like crap about yourself.
>>
>>2998
funny that cause surfing is about the only time i feel properly sane.
>>
>>2835
i dont know anyone riding 90s style toothpicks either, thats why i said shortboard and not 90s style toothpick lol. a modern thruster made for average waves will eat up 2fters without an issue if there's a little bit of power behind them. that said, i have no idea what kind of surfer you are or what kind of waves you're surfing. fish might suit you better but these days i see shortboards getting a bad wrap while fishes are super hyped up
>>
>>2984
>nj
my buddy has a rozbern and loves it. see if you can get it glassed heavier if you're worried about fragility. otherwise eps boards are way tougher than pu if you wanna go that route
>>
This is a cool board
>>
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>tfw never surfed
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>>3283
for me the main advantage of a fish is the extra volume under the chest massively helps with paddling while still being short enough to duck with it. getting out back here is murder in winter.

every time i've gone surfing outside of europe i can't believe how easy it is getting out. you just find a channel and might have to duck a couple of sets and you're golden. here you have to eat foam for ten minutes solid before you get to the line up on bigger days.
>>
>>2964
"couple of pints extra" is a term people use round here for a bit more volume.

thruster is a shortboard (though most i know have them a bit longer, 6'6-8), but not the classical "i just watched played kelly slater pro surfer and bought these piece of shit that is designed for south pacific overheads and i'm trying to use it in 2ft of swill" toothpick,

groveller is another short board with a round profile and shitloads of volume. exclusively for small, gutless waves. you'll pitch out if you go in anything big in it.
>>
>>754
that board, custom shaped with epoxy and an s-glass coat, half matte, half varnished with that bitching art comes in at £75 cheaper than something kelly slater paid some thai children to make.
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>>3596
Ah, a beater.
>>
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The GOAT
The missing link
The Rubberman
>>
>>3702
I have never surfed in my life, I just buy wavestorms to support the child labour used to make them
>>
>>680
Is surfing extreme like BJJ is extreme (lukewarm, something families with fat dads can do)? Or is it extreme like free soloing is extreme (deadly but pretty based)
>>
this thread is full of anons who have never surfed before and two anons who surf too much so can only talk in surf lingo which is indecipherable to the common man

I sit alone in the middle of all this chaos. A noob who has actually caught a few
>>
>>4916
Surfing is pretty safe if you can remain calm and swim well. I'm pretty new and have had 10 ft + days where my leash has snapped due to inexperience. Swimming back isn't really so difficult if you're well fed and know not to swim against the current as well as remain calm. Of course I live in an area without so much reef to cut yourself up on so take that with a grain of salt.
>>
>>5100
>my leash has snapped due to inexperience.

Unless you mean going out on 10ft.+ days when you can't surf those, it's not the inexperience that breaks leashes
>>
I want to learn frontside carving or just fs turning.
>>
>>5857
step 1) watch clips
step 2) do
there ya go worked for me
>>
>>5857
and if i may make a recommendation
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MiBcUHr1tgE
dane is the fucking man when it comes to turns and he's on his frontside pretty much this whole vid
>>
>>5897
That's what I'm doing. I'm constantly visualizing it. But even when I'm conscious on a wave and going all how I want, when I turn my head, I don't feel the board turning. I'm talking about cruising, just riding frontside. Thanks though.
>>
>>680
I'm confused, is this surfing, or something very similar to surfing with a different name? I can't tell with the cheeky OP subject.

I tried surfing for the first time last year, it was pretty awesome, but then I don't know how well i would do at it now, it's been over a year and I just was taught balance, not actually finding waves. I was told I'd have to work a lot to get to the point of wave finding/positioning though
>>
>>754
Idk bro I just like my local shaper.
>>
>>4916
Kinda depends what you're doing. For the vast majority of people, yes it is extremely safe, probably safer than BJJ in terms of injuries.
>>
>>5983
you mean just pointing yourself in a direction? make sure your back foot is over the fins and you're giving yourself something to pivot off of. like by putting more weight on that foot. assuming you're on a longboard so you might have to swing it around a little bit
also dont be twitchy
>>
I do drop knee bodyboarding in Hawaii. I'm the baddest kunt here.
>>
>>6092
No, when I'm already riding frontside, let's say as I'm rising to the lip, when I turn my head towards the shoreline, I don't feel the board manoeuvering as I feel it when I'm riding backside.
>>
Where my south carolina bros at
>>
>>6699
Do you surf Outer Banks? Isn't that in North Carolina? What a fitting name for a surfing spot, isn't it?
>>
Bump
>>
shapers in my area are all PU zealots. does my head in. they always talk about EPS like it's only used by "the man" and if you want soul you have to go PU.

for me, soul is a board that's light as shit and doesn't ding easy. people say stuff about PU getting into the pocket better but i've never had the problem, just give me that float and stop being such a fucking luddite.
>>
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Getting this from a local shaper, going for a 6'4 x 22 x 3 so should rip on those flatter days. Glad there is a surfing general on the chan, reddit is full of SV soi nerds
>>
>>7425
Does PU stand for polyurethane?
>>
>>5186
It was me being dumb, the way I had my leash tied let my fin rub against the corrugated rubbery part as opposed to the line. This let my fin cut the leash pretty easily before I figured out what was going on.
>>
>>7617
no doubt it'll go, that thing is a fuckin boat
interesting fin setup btw, looks like a more pivoty keel split up over a quad set
be interested to hear how you like it once you try it out
>>7621
yeah
>>
>>7635

Yeah its a boat but Im 6'4 100kg so ill be able to handle it, fins are split keel. Currently riding a fat 42L 6'0. Will be reporting back to the general when i get it in 5-6 weeks
>>
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Does anyone know about getting better ankle mobility for a low surf stance (pictured).
When I get low my back heel comes up which makes me lose balance. I understand this is pretty minor, but I've been trying to really hammer out the fundamentals and this is bugging me.
>>
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>>7637
ah makes sense then
image is my fish (different paint, don't have a pic of mine on me)
similar dims for width and thickness as yours but it's about 5'1, i'm 6' 170 lbs
such a fun little shape, can noseride it or bury the rail in anything
kept me off my shortboard for like 3 months after i bought it lol
>>
>>7639
Practice when on land I guess. Go low as you can while keeping your back straight.

>>7637
It bugs me that people call 42 litres fat, lol, the lightest board I've ridden was the One Bad Egg and its 42,5.
>>
>>7663
guess it depends what kind of shapes you're into
i'm 170 lbs and my floatiest board is >>7657 which i estimate is 31-33ish, dims aren't written so idk for certain
generally keep my boards 27-29L
>>
How do I git good at paddling?
My shoulders become incapable of paddling so fucking quickly, they just die. It’s embarrassing as fuck.
Is there a way to exercise them in a way that lets me try to surf long enough to actually get a wave?
>>
>>7953

Swimming, shoulder exercises, surfing more

Also make sure your board isnt too small for you
>>
>>7663

For non manlets 42L is fine, but for a lot of people that would be a bit much on a shortboard
>>
>>8011
And here comes another unresolved matter for me; is volume independent of thickness? Could you have a fat board that's hollower than other boards of the same height?
>>
>>7953
Do endurance cardio when you can't surf. Daily practice will let you stay out longer without getting worn out. Realistically everyone has a limit, it's okay to take a break and sit on the beach or get something to eat before going back out.
>>
>>8300

Volume is the overall amount of foam in the board, thicker board = more room for more foam
>>
>>4916
surfing is surfing mate, it depends on the day's conditions and how much experience you have
>>
>>8817
OK, now I know for sure.
>>
went out today. one of those overhead days where it's breaking a mile out with sets close enough together that to get out back you're probably going to have to duck 30-odd walls of foam given the knockback from each one. then when you do get to the line up you're too shagged to do anything.

absolutely not worth the effort.
>>
>>9193
Add to that, that sometimes you need to keep paddling to stay in the RIGHT spot, the constant anxiety of taking off on other surfers and the correct judgment of the set you're going to paddle for.

Surfing cultivates the fear of Buddha in you, kek.

It all comes together eventually, it's bound to.

Were you alone in the water? What board did you use? Did you at least catch any decent rides?
>>
805 checking in. Is this the 3rd or 4th completely flat february in a row?
>>
my 7'2. never really been able to define it. it has nice rails and a bit of volume but a fairly sharp nose and drawn in tail. not quite a pin but gets pretty narrow and goes into a diamond.

it's not a gun at all, but it's nothing like a funboard or magic carpet either. feels like a scaled up hybrid i suppose.

generally goes well in most things and is probably about 38 litres. bit of a pig to duck though which is why i'm looking into a fish, but i suck on anything shorter than 6ft.
>>
Stab magazine's comment section was like the 4chan of surfing, but now that they brought Ashley Bogan as an editor it has gone from shit to petrified donosaur excrement, that yuppie's every intro is like "The Sun. The smell of salt. A light chill as the breeze shivers... All the sensations of surfing is why I go out whenever office hours allow it. And it's why I decided to give McIntyre vegemite™ a try, because the McIntyres have been part of western Australia since you were a grommet trying to adjust your paddling position. And since I'm feeling risky and giving new things a try I decided to give Texas wavepool© a go. All my inhibitions have been swept aside. It's stacking up to be a great Olympics boys and girls! "
>>
MSW forums use to be pretty useful but of course they nuked them like everything good about the internet "just use reddit lol"
>>
Transitioning from a 8’ foamie after surfing it for 2 years. Lost crowdkiller round or firewire seaside and beyond for next board?
>>
>>10344
crowd killer. to get the most out of a seaside you want it pretty short and if your pop up isn't clean you're not going to have any fun.
>>
Post some pics. Don't let a surfing thread be dry.
>>
been getting by with one of this lil helper while the ocean's dead here in santa monica
>>
Bit cheeky but going for a surf before work tomorrow, who /wfh/ and doing nothing?
>>
>>12263
The truck is crooked, lel
>>
>>6452
Based jack stance poster.
>>
>live about 25-30 mins drive from the beach
>on days when i'm not working, i tend to sleep in
>check a bunch of local surf cams
>by about 10/11am on most days there's usually a couple dozen guys all waiting in line to ride tiny, closed out, choppy surf
>beaches with nobody at them are usually completely flat
>i just want to find a beach with okay waves that only has a few people at it, but you have to drive at least an hour or two for that kind of thing and even then there's no guarantees
>>
>>12457
at my spots you'd think a january weekday was a july weekend with the amount going out.

going to be 4ft with barely a breath of wind and a bit of sun tomorrow, then next week it's all off shore. been getting battered in constant overhead conditions all winter so looking forward to it being a bit more easy going. should be lovely.

https://magicseaweed.com/Gwithian-Surf-Report/3/
>>
>>12759
Man up and go dawn patrol
>>
>>13447
That's certainly the way I'm leaning now. Plus where I live the beach gets absolutely packed on weekends unless you go early. You have to be out by 10am at the latest or you'll be swamped with people, anyway.
>>
Post slabs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fPotea6V4MM
>>
>>13511
No

Give me surface to play. Stiff wannabe.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=3jgETDDOYAA
>>
>>14328
I really hope I can strike it big one day and spend a year in madeira, seems like such a nice place to live.
>>
How long/often does everyone surf here?
I'm pretty new so I go even when it's not good if I have time.
1-2 hours 4-5 days a week.
>>
>>14893
depends. i'm a 40 minute drive from anywhere worth surfing so i get my money's worth. was in for 5 hours today.
>>
>>14893

Surfing shit waves or conditions is good for development, I try and go at least twice a week
>>
>>14881
Yeah but the waves are monstrous dude.

>>14893
Used to go several times a month. I had a 4-month hiatus, now I've only surfed 6 times since December. I also had a panic attack in the water and it messes with my determination.
>>
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I really hope this is going to be a general and surfposting doesn't die out on /xs/ after this thread.
>>
>>10172
What were they like? What does MSW stand for? Do you have any screencaps or meme conversations?
>>
I can easily see certain aspects of surfing that people enjoy, but there are other parts of it that I'm having a hard time understanding the point of.
For example, when you catch a wave, even if it's big enough to enjoy, even if you're quite good at surfing, usually you're still only going to be on the wave for about all of five, maybe ten seconds at best before the wave finishes. Even skateboarding offers a lot more continual flow of activity than that.
I realise there's obviously something that I've missed here, or loads of people wouldn't do it. But can someone please explain it to me? Is there something else you get from it? Is five seconds of riding a crappy wave enough to make it worth your while? Or is it basically just being able to tell people, "Yeah, I surf"?
>>
>>14893
anyone else from somewhere with generally bad surf? I'm in NY and we get maybe 1 "good" day a week on average. I love surfing but honestly I'm looking forward to leaving NY and mainly snowboarding instead. Stars have to align for good waves here, every break has 20+ guys in the water if it's at least knee-waist and not 10+ mph onshore, if you have a boat there's some breaks that are good and empty so there's that. Most people that are good here simultaneously have money, never work, and go to PR like multiple weeks out the year. I'm at least 30 mins out from decent breaks and try to surf at least once a month if my schedule permits when we're out of 5/4 season but man it's rough and I have fomo like mad whenever its good and I can't go
>>
>>15611
What's fomo? Cabin fever?
>>
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tomorrow looking enjoyable.
>>
>>16247
6ft at 14 seconds? You are in for big smash. Is your wind offshore?
>>
>>16289
yeah. faces should hold long enough for a decent ride.
>>
>>7639
that sort of low position is a style / technique, and comes with massive amounts of experience and practise, pic related is craig anderson who's a freak at the alternate style and tube riding. If you want the same effect for tubes, i.e. getting low but still being able to get speed, just practise the way you crouch and work on your core and leg endurance so you can go from crouching to pumping for speed with ease.
>>
>>15476
The actual rush and feeling of being on the wave makes it worth waiting and paddling for. Being able to balance on a foam plank riding along a natural formed body of water is an experience on its own. Also, the feat of being able to paddle, stand up, ride and perform maneuvers on a wave is a great feeling, too.
It's basically like a waterpark that you need skill for.
>>
>>16487
plus, instead of that ankle bend where Craig doesn't even have his foot on the board the fucken freak, you would find it better to do almost a lunge (not as forward-facing so you can keep balance), with your toes planted on your tail pad / back of the board.
>>
>>16490
I should have got back here sooner, but I sort of get it now. I paddled out earlier this afternoon and even though the waves were big enough that I was a tiny bit outside of my comfort zone, I still thoroughly enjoyed the experience.
>>
>>16579

Its also nice just to be in the water, very meditative
>>
>>680
>quad fish
>no bonzer esque channels
i shiggy diggy
>>
>>680
If you're buying a freshie, get one handmade at a local shaper, that way it'll be made to suit you and maybe even a little cheaper.
>>
>>16490
You are replying to a troll. Just letting you know. He's a thread vampire, he will suck the fun out of it and your reply is his invite.
>>
>>16305
Get back to us with a review of the session.
>>
>>15476
kook
>>
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>>15476
anon, I...
>>
>>16631
Wrong.
>>
>>16633
went to fistral in the end. it's the mcdonalds of local spots but it was sheltered from the bit of crosswind down the road. great shape to everything, never good at estimating size but the good sets were overhead. the offshore wind picked up a bit at one point and the waves started doing the wall of death thing that happens when they hold their shape too long.

spent the whole day working on my lefts since they are nowhere near as good as my rights. had one of those drop ins where you go vertical and the world explodes around and you somehow pop out the other side, felt great. getting out was okay, just had to get your timing right as the lulls came every 5 minutes.

wasn't even that busy which was weird. usually when its dreamy conditions like today it's rammed down there.
>>
>>16651
Sorry then, but we have had a long-time troll in /esg/ following us from wrestling threads.
>>
>>16814
>and the world explodes around and you somehow pop out the other side, felt great.

Have had this happen to me once or thrice whenever I just wanted to say "fuck it" just to experiment and lose fear and you feel like you're surfing Jaws, kek, it's an awesome feeling but you have to trust your board man.

>the waves started doing the wall of death thing that happens when they hold their shape too long.

I actually feel a little safer when the waves hold their shape a little longer, but I think I understand what you mean, they look vertical if you look straight behind you at 6 o'clock. What u do then is look down the line and you can then see that they are in reality inclined. If that was a cement bank you would have the time of your life.
>>
>>16851
Fair enough, but whoever that person is/was, I'm definitely not them.
>>
Is Kite allowed here
>>
>>16599
And just refreshing. I went out on my bodyboard a couple of days ago in 37 degree heat and the water felt amazing. A tiny chill for all of about half a second, then after that it was bliss.
>>
Went out yesterday, all my mates were coming back because it was shit and they only stayed for half an hour. Took off my wettie the same way I put it on, lel
>>
Big swell incoming tomorrow, gonna coooooom on some pearlers
>>
https://i.4cdn.org/wsg/1614855759007.webm
>>
>>18942
Why is nosesiving called pearling?
>>
>>19047
Why did you link that instead of posting it?
>>
>>15476
Surfing isn't about standing up. The standing up part is the climax. It's like sex. Saying you wouldn't surf because the ride is only a few seconds is like saying you won't have sex with a beautiful girl cause the orgasm lasts a second. Surfing is about paddling, being out in the water, reading the waves, catching the waves is the orgasm, except unlike sex you can climax over and over again in a two hour session. Depending on your skills and conditions of course.
>>
>*slaps your wave on the ass*

How do you react?
>>
>>19163
i undulate between feeling bad for these dudes because they tend to be older guys who are just finding their buzz and are friendly enough despite everyone else hating them, and then having them snake the best wave of the set from a mile out and wanting them to slip over on their fucking ocean liners, brain themselves on the deck and bleed out in the ocean with nobody going to help them.
>>
>>19163
I stole a wave from a supper, early one morning when two of my friends who are surf instructors took me to a nice mellow break. It was a glorious wave which I rode for no less than 15 seconds. Probably closer to 25. I could see my shadow on the face as the sun was rising behind me and I was riding frontside.
Later I was let known by one of the friends that I dropped in on her.
I told to my other friend "x said that I dropped in on the supper. I apologized"

So my friend said "it was a supper, so who cares?"
>>
>>19356
Based
>>
>>19356
they are only out on those mellow days too. most surfers go out getting absolutely ragged in all kinds of shite and treat those windless 3ft glass sessions as relaxation therapy, only for all the suppers to crawl out of the woodwork on those days.
>>
>>19159
Based coomer
>>
If anyone's thinking of surfing the Goldie DON'T, it's cold all year round and there's heaps of man eating sharks, if you do find yourself there and looking for a wave head to Dbah the locals are super friendly.
>>
>>19056
Because it has sound.
>>
>>19163
Fuck off Sea Janitor
>>
>>19455
*makes mental note to definitely visit and try to sneak a wave in the gold coast whenever I go to Australia*

PLENTY OF HAOLE SURFERS BUT WE'LL BLOW THEM AWAY BRAH
>>
>>15476
Only a surfer knows the feeling.
>>
>>4408
Izzat Buttons?
>>
>>19742
Methhead coconuts can't even surf, the one that could is dead lmao
>>
>>17452
No
>>
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>>19455
Summer in New England.
>>
>>20154
>Rubberman
>Buttons

Well, no. It's Larry Burtleman. But Buttons is also one of my favourites.
>>
>>20187
It's like nature telling you to not surf.
Fuck you nature, you kook.
>>
>>12263
what tower bro?
>>
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>>20481
Those guys must be in their 40's by now.
>>
>>21622
Buttons died aged 53
Larry is still alive somewhere around that age.
>>
>>16499
>>16487
Thankyou for the advice, I sort of knew that was an extreme case in the picture. I just wanted to illustrate the angle of the heel with that.
>>
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>>19163
Could be worse
>>
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What's the consensus on body boarders?
I'm in florida and have only ever seen one.
>>
>>23567
don't mind them too much, nice to not worry about snaking them/dropping in like with other surfers because they go straight most of the time
>>
>>5100
yeah dude i can tell youre a kook
>>
>>23567
Good spongers are like hot indian chicks. You don't see them very often but when you do they blow you away
>>
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>>23798
I said I was new.
>>
>>6575
Get a surf skate and don't turn your head before your hips. Almost imagine your nose (on your face not the board) being above your toes of your front foot. And make sure your back foot is above your fine like that other anon said.
Go slow. If you get real good at it, you can do almost leave your head level through the whole turn
>>
>>23567
i actually sponged till i was in my early 20s. i thought i was going to be the hottest shit bodyboarder and do ARS's and 360s and shit and blow everyone out the water.

i was pretty okay until one day i went out and lost a fin and decided fuck it, i'll hire a foamie and see how i get on. never went back to a bodyboard since.
>>
>>23567
I started to get back into it over the Christmas break and am enjoying it so far. I went out last week in surf that frankly was a little too big for my comfort zone and current abilities, but I still had a blast. The only other guys out there on the day were all on surfboards, but they either didn't worry about me, or were just polite and friendly to me. It's been like that a few times lately when I've paddled out and frankly I think the animosity between surfers and spongers gets played up a little bit int something it isn't.
>>
>>23971
I found some short fins in my garage recently and I think I'm gonna give it a go.
>>
>>24050
How snug do they fit your feet? If they're a little bit tight, then you may find that you're either going to get blisters, or even cramp up in the surf. I already had a couple of pairs from a long time ago, but they didn't fit me quite as well as they did some 15-20 years ago. But a couple of months back I bought some that were a tiny bit larger and I bought some neoprene fin socks to go with them and the difference in comfort is night and day. I can paddle a lot harder for a lot longer without any discomfort. The only thing I've been told be some more experienced riderds is that I may find that I don't want the extra buoyancy from the socks; which on my last session I did sort of notice, but it was still pretty negligible.
But yeah, give it a go for sure if you're feeling like it; I'm glad I got back into it.
>>
>>23971
>>24050
>>24244
This is a stand up only thread, start your own thread on /lgbt/ if you wanna chat about the boogie.
>>
>>10135
Noa Deanes ciggie butt was such a faggot.
>>
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>>24340
what now?
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>>24494
Yeah not bad, I bet tho not many can do that? Fuck that would be fun in an open face.
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>>24340
My deepest sympathies to you.
>>
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>>3596
>be me, last year
>bring one board on surf trip (aus)
>it breaks
>only other board available is mullet fatcat 4'8"
>waves pumping at sandbar, 5'
>paddle out
>absolutely cannot control the board down the face
>take floppy fin to the face
>die
>ghost that posts on surfing forums now

wish someone told me grovellers aren't 4 big waves :(
>>
>>21622
there's no way this is real. right? how can he even pop up on a wave that critical with all that fat?
>>
I'm buying my first board soon for MD/DE, I've been like 20 times, stood up a few times but didn't actually turn.

Looking at softops from local shops, the two choices I have to make are 8' vs 9' and single vs thruster set up. What should I go for if I'm 170 lbs, does any of this even matter?
>>
>>23842
Got it. I also got what the other anon said now. Thanks.
>>
how do you lot deal with work?

i freelance, but when i'm working it's life consuming 12 hour day shite. doing a presentation for some wank giant company and having to deal with all their horseshit buzzwords and completely fucked sense of priorities when i want to do is be out sliding down some faces.

wish i could be a surf neet.
>>
>>25085
If you actually want to progress don't go with a soft top. Your fin setup also won't mean shit for awhile.
>>
>>25201
>be wageslave
>get off at 4 every day
>work couple hundred feet from the beach
>>
>>25085
I think you should rent a soft top for multiple days when there’s good wind and smallish waves and surf as much as possible then get a real board when you can stand up consistently. I’m a look though so don’t take that advice too seriously.
>>
>>25085
8ft and thruster (3 fin). Easier to carry and all you need.
>t. 151 lb 5'10" surfer for 10+ years
>>
>>25262
This is good advice
>>
you don't need more than 8ft for a soft top. even an 8ft will more volume than the average oil tanker so any more length will just mean more weight to lug around.

i'd actually recommend just getting a big volume 8ft mini-mal for your first board and skipping the soft-top. the window between when you'd be able to catch waves on a softie vs a mini-mal is probably about one decent session,
>>
Thanks for the heads up about how unimportant owning soft tops are, whenever I try to research beginner boards on the internet everyone says you MUST start on a softie.
>>
>>25533
load of bullshit, mini mal/funboard is the perfect thing to learn on because it has just as much volume and the skill cap is higher
>>
>>25533
the main adavantages of softies is that they're cheap, doesn't really matter if you ding them and you can ride the foam near all the tourists and groms and braining someone won't matter since your board is a giant sponge.

other than that, a beat up (as long as it's water tight) second hand mini-mal with a round nose, soft rails and around 60L of volume is always going to be a better option to my mind, and you can keep it around as your shit wave funboard even after you progress.
>>
>>25473
seconding this, I bought a 9'6 soft top for some stupid reason and you can really feel the drag. Floats great though, could probably fit a 200+ lb person
>>
picked up a vintage 8’10 sunshine board, claude mogen model and shaped by him, glassed on fins

very perdy
>>
>>23567

Like anything really, if they have good etiquette then its not an issue, ive just found most of the shit cunts in the water tend to be bodyboarders
>>
>>16579
:]
>>
>>15476
Even when you're beginning standing up for 2 seconds is a thrill. Being in the ocean is a thrill...it's not just about catching the wave bro, it's about the trip, you dig?
>>
>>27699
I know, we tackled all of this a couple of weeks ago.
>>
>>27699
>Being in the ocean is a thrill

Not for me. I'm a mediterranean boy and the Atlantic is a beast. I'm in it for the wave sliding, not for new-age marketing campaigns.
>>
Panda Astro zombie. Got one on Craigslist new in 5’5” and it’s my favorite fish I’ve ever ridden. That thing creates speed like no board I’ve ever ridden.
>>
>>12263
Sometimes I enjoy living in Northeastern Brazil. There are some nice waves even in dry, dead days.
I mean, today was meh, but there were waves. In Rio de Janeiro, the sea could be flat for weeks.
Also, coldest water ever recorded here was... 77 F.
>>
everyone knows 4ft and clean are the best conditions.

you have to bang on about how it was FIRING on that overhead day where you spent almost the whole time either paddling out, getting caught inside or eating shit, but what any honest surfer wants is a day when you can just cruise out back without even getting your hair wet and catch easy glides at your leisure.
>>
>>28651
I'm backing this. Good forecast for tomorrow, longboarding day.
>>
>>2998
I used to feel the same, learning to freedive helped me greatly surfing, ot requires you to stay calm when youre natrual inclatination is to panic, and knowing I could easily spend a few minutes under water if i had to makes me feel much more at ease being alone during a larger swell
>>
>>4916
id say surfing is safer than most sports in terms of injuries you'll get, but as with anything water related, it's very easy to die if you're not careful
>>
This is the first surfing thread of the new board and it has been up for a month.
>>
>>29672
That's just how it goes; it doesn't move as fast as skateboarding or judo.
>>
>>29717
probably because it doesn't have surfing in the title so catalog fags don't find it.

someone should start another /kkk/ thread but put surfing in it somewhere.
>>
Ashley Goggan is a kook shill bogan
>>
>>29843
Also because there aren't any trolls posting in it and that's fortunate. /esg/ before /wwe/ moved in, was like that
>>
>>3387
Get a foam longboard and ignore the hate. Those things are fun as fuck
>>
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>>30700
yeah lemme just hit these waves with my new longboard
>>
>>24974
yeah, it's real, just takes off late; plus it's fucking HI. and he's been surfing since he was probably 4-5 years old.
>>
>>23226
This guy is going to eat it so bad; that yak will broach to.
>>
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>>10172
I guess most of you guys weren't around when the alt.surfing ng existed. Here's a souvenir; Alvin Donovan and Robbie Paige lol.
I'm on that list.
>>
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Early morning south FLA.
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>>30814
Don't know any of those dudes but I bet you are =wanker

>>30815
Have you ever seen a shark or two?
>>
>>24343
Many people were appealing, but at least the fucking comment section was funny. Since that asshole came along it's been strictly promotion and who knew, I got a notification saying that now there's going to be a pay wall.
>>
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What do people rely on for swell forecasting? I use pic related and Windy but I still drove 7 hours to OBX just to get skunked. Feel retarded
>>
>>30918
ventusky.com is a very good animated real time weather site. Covers the entire planet; it will give you swell direction, period and most everything you'd need to make an educated guess on conditions where you are planning to surf.
>>
>>30864
Yes
>>
>>30918
magicseaweed for me.

swell doesn't mean shit where i live to be honest, it's all about wind conditions. there's always something even if it's just a couple of foot so swell is more about which board i'm taking, whereas wind is whether it's worth going out at all.
>>
>>30994
I guess you are the Florida anon
>>
>>30867
Yeah the cunts aren't getting a cent from me, the comments section was fucking gold tho.
>>
>>25311
Yes this is the very board I started on, still wish I had it now for smaller days and Noosa trips.
>>
>>31295
No.
>>
>>31516
I know people from Noosa. They are rippers. But you don't hear a lot about it. What's up? Is this the underground scene of Australian surfing in the east coast? Does Noosa only have that little point break or whatever it is?
>>
>>31658

Noosa has a nice point break but its mostly dominated by longboarders. Lately its become the next Byron Bay in terms of cashed up corporates (not yuppies, more like CFOs) moving there and ruining the surf culture
>>
>>31783
Tbh Byron was ruined by worthless, hippy theives before it was ruined by corporate types.
>>
>>31816
>damn surfers, they ruined surfing!
>>
>>31880
I don't think Byron was always full of hippy thieves, though.
>>
>>30734
get into paragliding, looks like a lot of fun to do low altitude cruising there
>>
>>31816

Byron does a great job of being a containment zone for those people, leaving most of the east coast free for actual surfers
>>
>>32271
That's a good point.
>>
Based Newcastle putting on shithouse surf for the WSL
>>
>>32584
Lol I saw that. I drove past Merewether beach last week before they set everything up and thought to myself, "You're about 2-3 weeks too late."
>>
>>32604
That's been the case on the Goldie for a few years now, either a week to late or to early, they can fuck off anyway.
>>
>>32667
It's probably much worse up there. I'd imagine the beaches are already too crowded even without a surf comp running. Not that it doesn't get crowded here, but at least Newcastle isn't viewed as of much of a surfing holiday spot as the Gold Coast is.
>>
>>32673
Yeah your dead right, all the snapper fags disperse all over the show, it's a fucking rat race up here.
>>
>>32684
Yeah it's not that bad here, but it still gets annoying. Nearly everytime I drive past most of the semi-decent beaches here you'll see two dozen guys in the line up waiting for waves that are shit, anyway. Probably nothing compared to what you get up there, but it's still a pain when you consider the conditions they're in.
>>
how long before you lot learned to read surf reports and realised that wind is everything?

i was such a retard for years and thought big heigh numers = big fun. went out in so much choppy slop and missed so many nice clean small days because of it.
>>
>>32738
*height numbers

i'm still a retard btw.
>>
>>32738
Yeah it probably took me a year or two to fully know what spots work the best with wind and swell direction, also I live in probably the most crowded surf area in the world so I have to take that into consideration. What forecast site do you use?
>>
Had a nice sesh two days ago.
Sunny, saw a lot of good people I hadn't seen in a while, caught some easy thigh-high mushbergers, felt very relaxed in the water. First good session of the year.
>>
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>tfw got deported from morocco back to homecountry without surf (germany) because of corona
>can't fucking travel anywhere because i am broke and need to make money until at least july
>local riverwave STILL isn't fucking operational and have to travel fucking hours for the next decent river wave

at least my south african friend is telling me to come over, anybody here ever been to SA in july/august/september? Worth it?
>>
>>33372
Have you heard of Jeffrey's Bay?

Also, aren't you afraid you're going to lose your hat?
>>
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>>33381
Yeah fo sho i have heard of j-bay but my i'd be staying in durban so that's a pretty long stretch to j-bay

I'm just worried about the general quality of the waves there, my friend keeps reassuring me that the waves in durban are super awesome but he has a tendency to overstate the quality of waves lol. I stayed in morocco for a year with him and to be honest i hated the waves in morocco 99% of the time. It was either super mellow pointbreaks whose waves almost never fucking linked up and had no power whatsoever and had those big sections that would just break as a whole without having the push behind them to speed you up enough to actually make it around the section with the extremely rare epic day sprinkled in between where you could get 3 barrels in a ride. But it was really just shit 363 days of the year. Or it was messy beach breaks with shifty peaks and strong currents that completely changed every hour and almost never fucking linked up a proper wave and especially never had any kind of semi predictable barrels. The beachbreak waves also randomly closed out 50% of the time lol and if it was *any* good about 100 bodyboarders crawled out of their caves and hogged the waves to do airs on the closeouts.

It was absolutely nothing like the phillippines or Indonesia where i lived for some years where you had some good reefs that produced long rides that you could get to know that then would fucking always break similarly and hold their shape. Also there was no fucking crazy current and you didnt have to fight through 30 walls of foam to make it back out after a barrel randomly closed out on you... I'd honestly rather get scratched up on reef every day instead of having to deal with these shitty beach breaks or shitty point breaks again, there is so much work involved just to get a, at best, very mediocre ride.

And of course my friend keeps saying the waves are epic there, no idea if i can trust him

Pic related, my average moroccan barrel experience
>>
>>33403
that looks like proper onshore swill. didn't even think they had wind in morocco.
>>
>>33446
Why would they not have wind in morocco?

You must be american
>>
I GET WIPED OUT
BUT I POP UP AGAIN
YOU'LL NEVER GONNA SEE ME DROWN
I GET WIPED OUT
>>
>>5983
you gotta set your rail too. head is most important but setting rail is also very important as well, also depends on where your placing your feet and how good your bottom turn is
>>
Going to a tourist beach on Easter long weekend was a mistake.
>>
Went out at Manly this morning, what a zoo. Every wave was people dropping in, saw one guy try and tackle another on the wave too kek
>>
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I live in Chicago and every now and every now and then I'll see one lone dude with a board trying to surf the filthy weak wake in Lake Michigan. Anyone here actually surf the great lakes?
I learned how to surf on a trip to Hawaii years ago and enjoyed it quite a bit and I'd love to be able to do it more but there the water was a cleaner and the waves were 3 or 4 times the size of anything I've ever seen in Lake Michigan. Also doesn't help that after working with steel manufacturers I learned of all the horrifying shit that the factories just a few miles from the public beaches are dumping into the water and I've hated swimming in Lake Michigan ever since.
>>
>>32584
>>32604
I tell you what, lads: this Rip Curl Pro or whatever the fuck it's called can fuck right off out of town.
There's not even that many people on most of the beaches around Newie, but from the top of Merewether, all the way into the foreshore it's impossible to find a spot to park your car because every cunt's going to the fucking surf comp.
>>
>wake up
>check the sea right from my backyard
>it has the color that tells me the spot might be clean
>check forecast
>small but with long period
>ohshitherewego.jpg
>check swell direction and wind
>it's northern with onshore wind
>wellfuck.jpg
>>
Anyone familiar with ankle sprains from surfing. I'm a noob and sprained my ankle in 2 inches of water last weekend. It's recovering quickly, but I was wondering if anyone was familiar with ankle braces or what would be a good timeframe to start again. Thankfully it was my front foot so I can still pop up leading with my back leg alright. At least that's on land.
>>
>>34754
my roommate is always surfing lake erie, and lots of people go out on wakeboats too around here. i don’t think it’s as dirty as your lake tho lmao
>>
>>36046

If its not that bad of a sprain dont use a brace, do rehab like calf raises or push your toes into a resistance band. You want it moving again (but dont smash it obviously) to stimulate the recovery. Take a bit of time off and focus on that. If its really bad see a physiotherapist. I destroyed my ankle playing basketball and it was a while before I could walk on sand again.
>>
>>36207
thanks, I've been using resistance bands and treading water in the pool to build up strength again. I think I'm going to focus on my ankles more in general in the future.
>>
>>36225

Heavy calf raises are your friend
>>
I'm thinking about doing a sail boat trip to elbow cay in the bahamas to surf next december. I understand that these islands are inconsistent, but being from florida I'm used to that and am planning to stay in the area for about a month. I can use a dingy to see outlying reefs as well.
Is anyone familiar with the area or spotting good reefs for swells on nautical charts?
>>
>>36348
Are you rich, bitch?
>>
>>36452
Not enough to rent a place in the bahamas.
>>
I had a great session on a foamie, doing the big, smooth drops and catching rides. I only went for the rights because I'm regular.

So, suck my dick, bitches.
>>
This is the absolute pinnacle of surfing you can't get a better board then this.
>B-b-b-but what about my.heckin fisharino
>What about my heckin thruster

Face it slater won the surf board game and soon we will all be riding cymatics
>>
>>37962
How's that thing surf





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