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Tomboys are the future edition

>What is bouldering?
Bouldering is a form of free climbing that is performed on small rock formations, boulders or artificial rock walls without the use of ropes or harnesses. Climbing shoes and a crash pad are usually the minimum equipment needed. Other styles of rock climbing (Sport, Trad) use various forms of protective equipment while climbing.

Previous thread >>24374
>>
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>tfw no tomboy gf
>>
So what do you think of the knee-pad ban?
>>
I don't think anything about it because afaik it doesn't exist
>>
>>38688
For bouldering I think its a good thing. Now if only bouldering routesetters would stop trying to force the hand jams meme.

Are they also getting rid of knee-pads for lead climbing?
>>
>>38688
Knee-pad ban? Story?
>>
Who the fuck thought four fucking hours of uninterrupted bouldering would be fun to watch?
>>
>>38707
I don't mind the hand jams, it's the parkour acrobatic dynos that annoy me.

>>38708
knee pads were banned in the last boulder world cup

>>38721
What do you mean? Would you rather have women and men on separate days, or what?
>>
>>38721
Upwards of 25k concurrent viewers on the livestream thought it was fun and based
>>
>>38676
When people say "beta" do they mean "the best way" or "a way"? Cuz there's often several ways to solve a route, some better than others depending on physicality
>>
>>38885
the way it problem can be solved. if you are tall, then a "short person beta" might not be that useful to you
>>
>>38707
I like the implementation of crack climbing in the recent competitions. Crack climbing is a huge category which has a lot of potential to be explored in comp climbing. Also, it forces competitors to either learn how to crack climb or think outside the box.

Besides, it's worth it just to see Jakob seethe over cracks.
>>
>>38676
Yeah, I got a question. Do I need to climb harder than the cute bouldering chick before hitting on her?
>>
>>38932
What makes you think a bouldering chick would date bouldering men?
>>
>>38932
Climb so good the climbing chick hits on you

You wanna be the source of advice
>>
>>38685
>TFW no trans tomboy gf desu
>>
>>38959
>trans tomboy
sick fucks, leave tomboys alone
>>
>>38885
>>38888
can also be strength dependent
>>
>>38676
Hey /bog/

imma share my 15minute covid bouldering fitness challenge with you.
Designed for intermediate climbers reduce the amount of pullups if you want to make it easier.


I like to go to my local football field and do one set on a goal post, then I squat walk as long as I can to the other goal post and repeat until done.

reps are the final goal

pullup to advanced tuck front lever crank 10x4
(diamond pushup burpee x10 and 2 second lock off pullups x10) x4

it's pretty hard good luck
>>
>>39135
beginner workout:
Take a minute between sets and do as many reps as you can. if the burpees are too easy you can switch to diamond pushup burpees


(pushup burpee x12+ 2 second lockoff body row with x12) x 5

follow by doing mobility drills of your choice
>>
Do you have any other athletic hobbies than climbing?
>>
>>39165
Yeah I also really like bouldering
>>
>>39232
oh you

>>39165
I guess I also do hiking, but I wouldn't really call it a hobby
>>
>>39165
Well I'm a cyber athlete, if that counts
>>
beginner and itermediate friendly routine: www.youtube.com/watch?v=IHHEKcfVIsg
>>
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is this the ideal, female bouldering body?
>>
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Does anyone here knows of exercises to get better at reaching footholds at waist level away from your center of gravity ?
Similar to the karate kick on freerider except you have to be precise (can't just throw your leg) and you can't pull any weight on your hands
>>
>>39491
Train your obliques, easier done if you have access to a cable machine.
>>
>>39491
stand against a wall while facing it, lift up one leg to your side as high as you can and hold it there for as long as you can. Do similar isometrics with your legs bent at different angles and your torso twisted.

some people can hang on a bar on one hand for quite some time, but they cannot keep their leg straight in air for even half the time

tl;dr
isometric leg exercises
>>
Can't solve a problem? This little guy will help you 100%
>>
>>39529
For both this and highstepping I can feel that the limiting factor is most definitely in the connection between the legs and the hips
>>39535
>some people can hang on a bar on one hand for quite some time, but they cannot keep their leg straight in air for even half the time
yup, haven't tried it but it definitely sounds like me, I couldn't lift my leg straight at a 90 degree angle to save my life
I'll try the isometric leg exercises thanks anon
>>
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Mfw I did my first V8 yesterday, what was the latest achievement /xs/ did?
>>
>>40230
Great job anon!
As for my latest achievement I'm not sure, maybe did a 5C last summer. The area was paywalled on 27crags so the guy I was with went by memory and my local gym doesn't really have comparable grades.
>>
how do I get my gf into bouldering?
>>
>>39551
Based and brush pilled, wish more people would clean their shit
>>
>>40230
well done anon, my latest achievement was prebooking a climbing session for the gym that is finally going out of lockdown next month (closed for over 4 months)

>>40250
why would you want you gf to have fucked up feet, and thick hands?
>>
>>39647
lift the leg parallel to a wall, not towards it. You want to strengthen your hip abductors. Elastic bands are good too
>>
I like bouldering, currently doing a 7a+ project. However the amount of basedcucks at the gym prevent me from accomplishing my goals. I just wanna leave when ever I see those low-test monsters. what do?
>>
>>40304
>basedcucks at the gym
>low-test monsters
what kinda people do you even mean here
>>
>>40308
they are half-based half-cucked. muscular, yes but also very basedish. some of them even refer goebbels
>>
>>40309
i don't sound right right now. i mean some of them are very basedish. sorry I'm on coke and vodka
>>
>>40313
oh it's the f*cking censorship that's fuck*ng up my comments. I mean some of them sound S---0YISH
>>
>>40314
How are these guys preventing you from doing your project exactly?
>>
>>40315
they are hating on my swastika shirt
>>
>>40320
Post pick of shirt
>>
>>40304
I have no idea what kind of people you are talking about. Use real word instead of some buzzwords
>>
>>40337
He means "he gets uncontrollably insecure and embarassed when he sees guys who're stronger and more skilled then him but who look like they vote for a different political party than he does."
>>
>>40353
>skilled *than him
>>
>>40235
Nice! Was it a 5C in British grade?
>>
>>40374
No, forgot that you skip the letters on 5 so it should maybe be 5+ instead. Tried finding the problem but no luck without the topo pictures, I'll just have to get out and do some problems I know the grades of.
>>
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Hey I was bored so I did the symmetric strength of magnus and the result is exactly as you can guess lol
>Bench press + DL
https://youtu.be/pqjiSMcmcRQ?t=417
>Squat
https://youtu.be/CZ2t3iNx5wM?t=1354
>Pullup
https://youtu.be/UOBB4wkTdxQ?t=1214
>>
>>40287
Yup that's what I understood and god damn am I bad at this, It feels weird to think that what stops me from going further up is a lack of strength tho, but well since I spent most of my life on a chair it shouldn't surprise me that much I guess
>>
>>40717
it's more of a mobility issue, not strength. You don't need to be strong enough to lift your leg up with extra weight, but you need to be enough mobile for climbing so you can lift your leg up
>>
anyone got any tips for finger joint pain?it's only really appeared recently after making some decent gains
>>
>>41393
Do you do a lot of crimpy routes or fingerboarding?
>>
>>41393
rest you mong.
>>
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a hold pulled off a fat piece of skin off my ring finger during weekend bouldering
>>
>>41393
recover, and then work on your open hand crimp. My guess is over-crimping
>>
>>39551
Whenever I brush some hold I always think it'll hardly make a difference or that I'm coping. However always pleasantly surprised. thank you brush
>>
>>40230
Nice!
>>
>>41757
post pic
>>
Bros any hot tips for improving footwork. I feel like I can only do controlled foot placement when I already have good handholds and vice versa. Anything else and I clank into the wall with loud slapping sounds
>>
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>>41943
don't forget to wipe your rubber too
>>
>>41955
downgrade and practice
>>
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sup, i need some help. what color combination do you think is best?
made on this website:
kinetikclimbing.com/kinetik-customizer/configure/2385/?v=402f03a963ba
>>
>>38737
>>38708
Pretty sure he was asking *why* they were banned.
>>
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Here it is /bog/, 35°, 8' x 8'. Happy climbing!
>>
>>42034
whatever you want man. 1 and 4 look the best to me. 2 is bad and 3 is generic.
>>
>>42064
sick. nice work dude. the design really brings it to life. I'm envious.
>>
>>42064
What's the total cost?
>>
>>42064
Nice man, well done
>>
>>42099
£600 ish, avoiding fully itemising it for now hahah. Wood is very expensive at the moment, especially in the UK, and the holds run you a pretty penny. A large portion of the costs was tools or fittings though that you could probably cut 100 off if you already had, and having access to a gym that might give you some old holds or a willingness to hand make woodies would save you another 100. We borrow a miter saw for the angled beams so it helps to know a guy, so to speak.
>>
Pretty new to bouldering, what's the best way to find other people to do it with? (irl friends aren't interested)
>>
>>42285
go to the gym and talk to people. look for people around your skill level and ask for help with your beta. work on problems together. if possible, find local outdoor bouldering areas and buy a crash pad, then invite people.

it's very easy to meet people this way, at least in my community.
>>
>>42334
thanks, will do this
>>
>>41875
what the fuck is a open hand crimp
there's no such thing
there's full crimp, half crimp, open hand, and some retarded 1/4th crimp for people with weird finger lengths
>>
>>38685
>>
>>42398
its the last one, basically a half crimp but with pointer finger in a drag
>>
>>42285
also check if there are any Facebook groups in your area. Usually there will be people looking for climbing partners.
>>
>>42285
Haha, bouldering is what I do when I don't have a belay partner.
>>
>>42019
Will do. Ty anon
>>
>>41875
i pretty much only open hand
its much stronger than my crimp
>>
Any others short climbers have been having trouble with tall setters ?
>>
>>43170
then start training your crimp
and lookup hangboarding for healing injuries
check out Hooper's Beta and c4hp
>>
>>42398
it's when your open hand gets so strong at the end of your fingers, that you can use it on holds you thought were only possible to be crimped.
>>
>>39165
HIIT/Kettlebell Workouts, riding my fixie recklessly, and reading
>>
>>43176
I'm 172. You just gotta get creative, or get good at dyno. In ifsc for men 2021, the average height must be around 175-178cm or so. (the guy who came second was 172cm)
>>
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Noguchi Akiyo
>>
>>43176
try moonboarding for a couple months straight, it'll teach you to fly
>>
I always get so quiet and antisocial when i boulder, I treat it as I'm at a gym. Can't really not do it, it's like my brain goes into "don't care, gtfo"-mode automatically. Which sucks cuz I wanna find someone to climb rope with. What do?
>>
>>43555
I find that the easiest way to meet people is to ask for help on beta. Everyone likes to give advice. Look for people who are a little better than you, or on the same project.

That will get you some bouldering partners. Finding someone to get on a rope with you will require a little more work.
>>
Bros any tips for sit starts?
>>
>>43667
hold the tension
>>
>>43555
bouldering gym is the only place I am actually social and comfortable talking to strangers
>>
>>43414
I wanna lick her armpits
>>
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I dont think italians know what an 8.5 us foot size is.
>>
>>43879
What? That's the perfect fit for you. They're not made for walking.
>>
>>43890
Maybe its just the way its shaped but it doesnt feel nearly as comfortable as the ones i used to rent.
>>
>>43879
Looks like there's enough room for you to scrunch up your toes into the toebox. But if you think a (half) size larger is for you, then try that out.
>>
>>43895
The shoes that gyms rent are absolute trash and it's normal for climbing shoes to hurt when they're brand new, especially when you aren't used to it and moreso when the shoes are designed with bouldering in mind
Just take them off everytime you're not climbing and you'll get used to it soon enough, also make sure to have rigid rubber when climbing vertical/slab so that you don't put too much pressure on your big toe joints
>>
>>43879
see the straps at the back? They are there for a good reason
>>
>>43895
It shouldn't be comfortable, but it shouldn't hurt either. If you're a beginner climber I'd just size up. The marginal improvement that you'll get from uncomfortably small shoes is probably not worth it.
>>
>>43957
this is the sensible (non-hardcore) answer
>>
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>it's finally a pete episode
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6VRj3JDTWI
>>
>>43909
>>43957
I may go a half size up. I would say its borderline painful and its uncomfortable enough to be distracting at least.

>>43918
>>43956
I can jam my foot in but the shoes are taking away some of my enjoyment.
>>
>>44004
Make sure you try them on the wall too. The discomfort can get a lot worse on tiny-feet slabs where all your weight is on your feet.
>>
>>43989
Pete is great. Him and Magnus together always make good content.
>>
>>39165
I bike and skateboard/longboard.
>>
>>44004
For reference adam ondra takes his climbing shoes 4 EU size below his size
Now obv you aren't the world's best climber but the thing is you got la sportiva shoes which are especially rough on the feet when brand new as they are made of natural leather and can really expand to shape themselves around your feets
Just give it a few weeks for your shoes to get bigger and for you to get used to it, I also hated it when I bought my first pair of real climbing shoes, now I can't imagine climbing with shoes too big





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