uoıʇıpǝ uʍop ǝpısdn>Should I start climbing?Yes. It's a good workout, and it satisfies the instinctual part of you that always asks "I wonder if I could get on top of that?". Find a climbing gym near you and give it a go. Focus on bouldering at first. Going alone is perfectly fine.>How do I start toproping?You have to learn how to belay. Almost every climbing gym has toproping courses if they have toprope walls. You will also need a belay partner--this is easier to find than you think. Just chat with other boulderers or approach someone alone on the auto-belay.>How do I start bouldering outside?Buy a crash pad and look for nearby boulders on mountainproject (or your regional equivalent). Don't be stupid and always have a descent plan. Prepare to be humbled.(Eternally remembered as /bog/)Old thread >>130882
Feels like these threads have way more rope climbers than boulderers. Anyone else getting out on the short stuff recently?
>>137580the whole point of climbing is getting up things you couldnt otherwise using your skills, techniques and gearif its a boulder 99% of the time theres some easy way up and down the whole 5m so the whole endeavour is pointless whereas lead climbers can look down on you from heavenly heights
>>137581>t. climbs 5.6 trad and walks off the back
>>137581I've had sport and trad climbs put down by euro mountaineers similarly. "Why climb this 30 meter cliff if you can just walk up the back?"
>>137580Love bouldering and hate rope climbing (because afraid of heights)What really shocked me is how weak rope climbers are, they climb the hardest shit for 15-20 meters but fail easy boulders I could do after a few months.How? I just don't get it
not gonna let this one slip....if you know what i mean
should i get protein powder with collagen even if im not doing hangboard exercises? does it even do anything extra?
>>137580Usually I just boulder in the gym and rope climb outside. The bouldering gym is cheaper than the rope gym and I'd rather fall on the rope than on the pads outside.
>>137627This article does a great job summarizing the state of knowledge on collagen supplements:https://www.hoopersbeta.com/library/should-climbers-take-collagen-supplements-make-an-informed-decisionBasically: collagen is better than nothing, but not necessarily better than plain protein powder. We just don't know yet. I wouldn't spend any extra money on it.
remember, don't be an /asp/ieHere are some classic lies back when /asp/ was a board>I was climbing v6s in 3 months gais>5.12s? Only took me half a year to get, easy>man, I've been climbing for a year and a half and plateaued at 5.14s, how do I get better?>v7s? Oh I climbed one of those my first day in the gym lolBe true to yourself, don't be an /asp/ie
>>137652my gym sets soft ass v7s sometimes just to let retard fatasses feel good about themselves.i think if people feel like their training regiment is not working they give up, and the gym loses moneyi think from couch to v7 takes at least 2 yearsfrom couch to flash v7 takes another year imo
>>137656>my gym sets soft ass v7severy gym does, climb outside to calibrate and/or board climbing
>>137578Just copped a pair of these, what am I in for?
>>137663A good climbing shoe, toebox feels a tad loose (only one strap/tightening point) but it is fucking solid, good for most everything until you hit v8s. If you have those, don't ever blame the shoe or I will hunt you down and do retard 4chan user things to your body
>>137580Got our pads ready and waiting for some more snow to melt before heading out. Really excited to get goin>>137608For the same reason you'd have no chance leading up those 15-20 m routes without 5 breaks. It's a endurance and technique game, bouldering is strength and coordination
>>137656>i think from couch to v7 takes at least 2 yearsMaybe if you start out training for bouldering really hard from the get toFor most people, no way. I read an article where the author had sent out surveys and the average first 7A was after 5 years of bouldering
>>137679>the average first 7A was after 5 years of boulderingfucking hell, I'm gonna be stuck at 6C and 6C+ for 3-4 years????is 7A that brutally hard?
>>137679>For most people, no way.I agree, I think its only possible if you have really good genetics for climbing. At minimum couch to 7A is two years though. I see a lot of leddit posts that they did their first v10 after 6 months to a year of climbing. No fucking way. Your tendons would 100% explode
>>137692Nah it's very individual of course. Imo it's after 6B+ the difficulty starts ramping up and you'll have to work more for it, so just stay consistent. Get volume on all types, project on your strengths and you'll prolly get a 7A in a year or two. Also I've generally found 7A's to be easier than 6C+'s. Anecdotal, but my friends tend to agree >>137697I agree. If you dig a little you usually see those people have been in the elites in other sports their whole lives or something like that though. They're at least used to an extremely high training load
>>137580Bouldering just doesn't do it for me, by the time I'm getting into a climb I've topped out.
>>137578I sprained my 4th digit on my left hand now I get a stabbing pain in my forearm whenever I put load on that specific finger. Taking anti inflammatory and resting it but sadly no climbing for like a month, doctors orders. Feels bad bros
how are ocun shoes? theres some ocun oxi QC/S shoes with a good sale for like 60usd do you think it might be worth it as first shoes?
Trying to transition from indoor bouldering boomer to outdoor. Every single outdoor problem is borderline a free solo or its a sit start that I can't do. All internet advice is a vague recommendation to practice sit starts. Thanks fuckwit let me practice something I can't do by doing something I can't do. Anyone actually worked through this with real training advice beyond git gud?
>>137750Train sit starts.You dont get better at them by avoiding them.Also pull harder
>>137734>first shoesDefinitely get them anon, good training wheels and if you stick to the same basic shoes for 1-2 years, you'll understand more about what you want out of a shoe as opposed to retards who buy new shoes every other month and constantly blame their fall on them
>>137734good advice: >>137763I think you should get a standard flat shoe like scarpa helix in a comfortable size for a year or two, then get into something a bit more aggressive. After your first pair of aggressive shoes die you will realize the difference and what you really want out of a shoeI would stay away from undersizing or shit like solutions for your first couple pairs. It is not worth it and the feet are usually good enough that you dont need a really aggressive toe or to feel the rock
>>137750Outdoor bouldering is fucking hard. Skip the sit starts and do the rest of the problem. Also if you're a boomer then just get into rope climbing; bouldering is for the youth.
>>137707Try icing it too. RIP, hopefully the month break goes by quickly
Got some athletic tape and committed myself to attempting crack climbing in my gym today for the first time. Managed to ape my way through the 5.9 hand jam route and 5.10 fist jam route, took my like 20 min each and my hands are beat to shit but holy fuck am I in love already. Excited to keep practicing until I can send them and hopefully do some outdoor this spring/summer. Still totally lost on how to do finger jams though, couldn't even do a single move -- any advice for progressing?
>>137679I went from couch to v7 after 2 years and am projecting v8 now at 2 years 7 months. I was very overweight when I started and have lost 50lbs since starting and quit drinking last year too. My good friend got me into climbing and he is very strong so my goals has been wanting to get strong enough to work the same routes he does. Honestly, getting into climbing is the best thing that's happened to me, currently I'm taking a course to learn trad climbing.
>>137679>surveys and the average first 7A was after 5 years of boulderingIs a 7A on the Moonboard the same as a 7A outdoors?Indoor grades vary A LOT so I'm not sure if it's worth working towards indoor 7A (e.g. there's a gym in my area where 6A is around the level of 6B/6B+ in most other gyms)
>>137804>Indoor grades vary A LOTDamn right, in my gym they even vary from route setter to route setter. Most are baby first wall, then comes in this niqqa Alex and a V0 feels like a V10
>>137804what degree? Benchmark or non Benchmark? 25 can be somewhat softer 40% somewhat sandbagged
>>137679>>137692most people climb/boulder wont even reach a real 7A everhighly depends on your overall physical condition when u start and on how much effort you put in at 1 times/week its hard to even get there at 2 times/week its doable in 1-3yat 3 times/week + finger training its 1-2y at 7´s it starts to become all about finger strength which is the slowest to build, it´s far less hard if bodyweight is really lowif you can do 3-5 pullups you have enough upper body strength to do 7A, - start finger Training (hanging from small holds first then pull ups on them, if easy move to a smaller size- explosive pull ups, try to get as high over the bar/hold as you can- core stabilization
does rice bucket training work for finger strength? want to do something small while still training finger strength without being too risky with hangboarding for example
>>137795>I went from couch to v7 after 2 years and am projecting v8 now at 2 years 7 monthsoutdoor? that's pretty impressive if so
>>137828>rice bucket trainingif ur an asian peasant maybe, just no, get one of those rubber rings to train it´s cheap af and transportable
>>137819Atm onyl doing benchmarks at 40° but still stuck at around 6B
>>137837>rubber rings to train it´s cheap af and transportableis there one/shape you reccomend or just find the cheapest one?
>>137828get one of the small block hangboards (tension block is an example) and lift weight from the groundvery easy to manage the load and can start as light as you want
>>137846the basic ones that look like a small donut are good, not sure what other shapes they have
>>137661I've read before that the soft grading goes up to V4/5 and then it's a little bit closer to where outdoor grades would be
>>137878it also depends a lot on your gym. if you go to a big commercial gym in big city california vs small tiny hardcore gym in czechia the grading will be... different
i'd suck sean bailey's dick just to have miho nonaka's dead vagina skin cells inside mehttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j4QB_MAUWvA
>>137905this manlet won in life
For those of you who have La Sportiva Miura VS shoes, how much did you size down (if at all)?
>fingers getting pumped before anything else need to lose weight>eat less>have no energy climb like shit, plateauedrelease me from this purgatory
>>1379203 sizes and its a bit like like a gym shoe cant wear them too longshould have done just 2
>>137922Oh, I only did 1/2 size down and I was worried that was too much lol... these are my first aggressive shoes, mainly gonna use them indoors. I do ~2hr climbs usually
>>137831This is /xs/ we don't go outside lol but I usually just rope climb outside because I don't want to hit the ground if I fall. 5.11a has been my repoint outside but it's been cold and wet here for the last couple months and I think I could climb harder next time I'm out. I've only climbed on basalt and tuff so I wonder if granite would let me climb harder
>>137878I think it might depend more on what the setters themselves climb outdoor. If the setter is a v8 climber then maybe it feels pretty soft until you get to an 8 and it just feels way harder since the setter is trying to mimic the difficulty they are currently working on.
https://www.youtube.com/live/AfvbWnGgBIEyeah im thinking Annie Sanders is the future of US Women's Climbing
>get into a rythmn, start climbing V4s consistently and sending some V5s>injure myself>take a break for a month or two>repeatHow do I escape this purgatory?
>>137941I'd try to not injure myself desu
How much does rubber stickiness vary? I switched from red chilis to scarpa origins and now I can't smear on any of my current projects anymoret. v0 god
>>137941>>137942Take it fucking easy in the gym, you can always tell who the wannabe faggots are cause they act hardcore and like they need to optimize and get pro.Meanwhile, the strongest climbers are the ones who take things chill, go at their own pace, and take a break when they're injured. Noone here is the next adam ondra or the big schwarma. Moreover, climb easy routes now and again, and do it purposefully. You'll still learn and improve, amd put less stress on your body
Hey I have a small cluster of what appears to be very small blisters on the top of my left foot right above the talus bone. I can't find any information online about this but has anyone else had something similar to this? I was thinking it was maybe my climbing shoes. They are super tiny like there are super tiny bubbles on the skin that cant be popped. I've been climbing for about ~2.5 years and noticed them.. probably 4 months ago?
>>137932Yes granite would let you climb harder since you can trust the rock. That being said it will eat up your hands. Every fall leaves scrapes everywhere. God I can't wait for Summer
well lads it finally happened, the acl fairy came :(
>>137945>How much does rubber stickiness vary?A lot If you ask me, Scarpa Veloce (M72 rubber or something like that) stick on every surface like glue while e.g. Instinct VS and Quantic (XS Edge rubber) hold on the smallest edge but smearing is unreliable on them (that's my experience though, afaik it also varies a lot with weight and skill)
>>138079>afaik it also varies a lot with weight and skilllearn to smear in gym rental shoes if you can smear in those nasty grey fucks, you can smear in anything
When I started bouldering I felt no fear regarding falling. However nowadays when I start a harder route or there's a step I'm unsure of I feel this feeling which is kind of a mixture of fear and excitement. Is it normal? Why didn't I feel it in the beginning?
>>138088>Is it normal?Yes. It's the fear of failing.>Why didn't I feel it in the beginning?Because when you started, you expected to fuck up. As you got better, you also felt the excitement of success. You also probably felt the pain of whiffing and slamming against the wall or floor face first, and understandably, your body doesn't like that. Simply put, you want to succeed because it feels exciting, and you fear not succeeding because it hurts and feels bad. Fear is normal, and you confront it on the climbing wall by doing that stupid thing you fear. Make that move you never thought you'd make. Try on the 7th day the route you failed 6 days before. Climb so hard you fail on that v1 you nailed the first day in the gym. Ignore faggots in the "i'm just like alex honnold bro I don't feel fear bro I'll be climbing 5.14s in a month bro" phase. Fear is a damn good motivator. Think of how when kids get stuck on the climbing wall, they can hold on for way fucking longer than anyone expects, or when you try a dyno, imagine you're a video game character leaping over a pit of spikes.tl;dr fear is normal, we all go through it
>>138093This reminds me of my first smear only boulder, sent it and the exact moment i thought "ok, now let's climb down" I fell 16ft face first on the matI had a laugh soon after and remember this fondly
>>138093Thanks for the help, anon!I really appreciate it.Next time I'm gonna leap of faith that fucking route.
>>137940she'll do awful in international comps, calling it nowprobably will do ok in lead, but boulder... btfo
Went to reel rock premiere and got to talk to Seb Bouin, Jacopo Larcher, and Babsi Zangerl for a little it was awesome
>>137940Jesus there's some 5ft tall people with +5 ape index. How can you compete with min maxed monkey genes
>>138209 nah she seems /strongmind/
Does anyone else get pain/tenderness between the PIP & DIP joints on the front of their fingers, especially when you started? I've been bouldering for about a month now, 3-4 days/week/, 2-3 hrs per session & only recently I've begun to have pain there from climbing. It feels like it might be a bit tender & swollen as well. Is this normal when starting to do routes that actually require some tight crimping? I'm worried it might be an early sign of a pulley injury or something.
>>138311bro you are climbing too much your body isn't used to it yet cut it back a bit.
Went to the gym today and it was pretty empty, my fingers are on the mend so I gotta warm up on the gym side for a bit before actually climbing. The gym area is small and there was this weirdo doing some kind of circuit but he kept just taking up as much space as possible and ondra yelling after every dip, pullup, or whatever. I'm just trying to warm up and stretch and this guy with main character syndrome is harshing my vibe. TL;DR: Don't be a gym hog
>>138311Take a week off, you'll be shocked how much easier climbing feels and how much harder you can climb when you've properly rested
>>138320>harshing my vibebro...
>>138323sup
>think I'm fairly decent at my local gym>climb in the top 1/4 of attendants>they finally get a moon board 45 deg>topping out at V2 on thatturns out the Gumby was inside me all along
>>138318>>138321I mean I'm not climbing for 2 or 3 hours straight when I'm there obviously, full rests between attempts, and there's usually a half hour-45 minute chat sesh with other regulars somewhere between the first & second half hahah, but maybe yall are right. Really don't wanna cut back much though since this & riding a peloton are the only sports I'm into at the moment and I fucking hate riding the peloton.
>>138356>tfw normies are going to gyms and striking up conversations with random people for 30 minutes at a time while being absolute beginners while antisocial autists like me are avoiding eye contact with everyone while barely climbing V5I wish I wasn't such a social reject despite appearing chadlike on the surface
>>138391Same I even try to talk with people, but I just suck at keeping a conversation going.
>>138356>I mean I'm not climbing for 2 or 3 hours straight when I'm there obviously, full rests between attempts, and there's usually a half hour-45 minute chat seshNo one else is one the wall for 2-3 hours straight. That's actually max time for a lot of climbing sessions>Really don't wanna cut back much though since this & riding a peloton are the only sports I'm into at the momentThen cruise on easier routes and socialize more. You give up a week so you don't have to give up climbing for 3 months
>>138391Do you go at the same time every week? Once I had a regular schedule I got adopted by a group of boomers who are now my cloom buddies
>>138331wait moonboards go as low as V2?
>>138446Moon boards, tension boards, kilter boards, etc, have the entire spectrum of route difficulties, but the way they're built makes them a smidge harder. +1 on the v-scale if you want to be conservative, +3 on scale if you want to delude yourself into thinking you're a pro
>>138446In the app I can't go below 6A+ (something between V3/4?)But maybe the 25° version goes down to V2, it's a lot easier I guess but only ever climbed on 40° ones so dunno
>>137652That just sounds like gym "climbers."
>>137652>>I was climbing v6s in 3 months gaisDamn I wish... I'm about one and a half years in and climb around V5I want to crack 7A this year but I'm 99% certain that won't happen
how to overcome feeling like a worthless loser when people flash your project? to make matters worse it's on v3s/v4s and I was crushing them just a month ago before the gym put up new routes
>>138550its gym climbing anyway who cares
>>138550>how to overcome feeling like a worthless loser when people flash your project?The V5 Bully - There is this guy who would always show up in gi pants and it felt like he would just follow me around, wait until I tried something, and then flash it. I fuckin hated that guy even though he never said a word to me. I made it a goal to be stronger than that fuck. Some time passed, I got stronger, and ol fuckface is in the gym. I see him flailing on a problem I've sent already. I glide up that thing like Fred Astaire and downclimb it too, then continue on with my session. If we happened to be in the same section that day I'd wait for him to go first, fall, then I'd come and flash it...I still see him at the gym, but he doesn't climb around me anymore.TL;DR: create a nemesis and crush them
>>138550>tfw this guy proceeded to flash every V7/8 I was working on in front of me
>>138567I wear banana republic tech shorts and do this on V4 problems on the steep overhang walls but only because those problems are the most fun and I wish the gym set more like those
>>138550>>138575just get good, there is always a guy flashing "ur" grade or higher, sometimes routes are harder or feel harder at that day but try to always improve on strength or technique and keep enjoying the climbing itself while competition can motivate dont make it your main incentive
>tfw there are two small ledges in my office bathroom so I can hangboard while I waste company hours
After climbing only in the gym for a few months I finally went /out/ for the first time. Did the upper end of 5.10s on lead without trouble but once I tried doing a 5.11 slab, it felt impossible. I got only 2 quickdraws in. This difficulty jump is insane. Figured I need to do a lot of practice on my footwork. Do you guys have any footwork technique specific trainings?
>>138088Don't worry so much, I mean how badly can it go https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cm2F3gDsKGS/
HelloWhat are some good stretches I can do before bouldering? I feel like it's important but I don't really know what I'm doing I am old and super inflexible and also not good at bouldering (V2/V3 nub)Also are there any good youtube channels or anything that might help me progress?Thankyou
>>138607>he doesn't hangboard on door framesNGMI
>>138693I used to do this and then the paint above my doorframe started cracking and it spooked me
>>138637https://www.youtube.com/@LatticeTraining
>>138608During your first 2-4 war up climbs during the day, practice placing feet as accurately as possible, only placing them once. Anticipate how will you need to stand on the foothold after the move.Commit to every foot move and you will learn to trust your feet. Some times just wishing that the foothold holds will make it better. N8kha w
>>138550You steal their beta, understand it and apply it elsewhere. Get better anon, and then crush their projects back.
I fucked up anons, I can no longer raise my right arm above shoulder height. I'm sure it will go away in a week or two
for me it's W011
>>138842>not even knowing their namengmiyou have to go deeper into the jpclimbfu labyrinth
>>137967Maybe its some kind of skin infection. Clean your dam shoes and try some antibiotic ointment
>>137967wear socks you animal its a friction rash
>bought a secondhand grigri online>the part that slides to let the rope in rattles a little bitam i going to die
>>138947probably>>138697same
>>138947>am i going to dieObviously
>>138947RIP
Are finger exercises with rubber bands worth doing for any reason? I don't get. Is there any gain in training antagonistic finger muscles??
>>139017meme
>>139017In theory it helps to prevent finger injuries.
Do you bros also lift or nah?I've read conflicting information about lifting and climbing
>>139044I lift up the homies when they get sad about not sending.
>>139044lifting helps. If not working directly related muscle groups, having muscles helps prevents injury
>>139044Why wouldn't you lift? I'd rather be fit all around than super specialized. I have no aspirations to climb competitively.
>>139086stop projecting and start projecting
>>139044I don't currently, but I wanna figure out a way to work it into my routine. I'm climbing 3-4 days a week rn and I really like it, but need to have a day in between if I want it to be a productive climbing session. Not sure how much throwing in a lift day on a non-climb day would impact my recovery.
>>138609love that video, its gives me ptsd from when i fell & my elbo came out of socket in a climibn gym
>>139017Stand in front of your bed, or a table that can support your weight, maybe your desk. Put the backs of your hands on the surface, so that your fingers are pointing in at each other (this might feel tense if you've been doing a lot of finger strength training.) Gently put some weight on your hands, and then rock up so that your weight is shifted off of the backs of your palms and onto your fingers. If you feel comfortable, you can shift the weight up onto the backs of your fingers only up to the second knuckle. Play with how much weight you put into your hands and repeat until it starts to hurt. This doesn't directly help you climb harder, but it makes it much less painful to climb hard.
>>139044I do weighted pull ups, weighted campus board, weighted hangboard and some meme lifts that armwrestlers do.
>>138609I'm the guy who posted this vid in the last general and go to the same gym; I've had conversations with so many people there who saw it too and complained about the routesetting.
>>139044I do barbell OHP 2x a week before climbing
>>139100post pics because this just seems like a dumb way to hurt your wrists.
Futaba Ito should auction her shoes for charity
>>139122here. Should mention that they say to rock up onto a fist when you go up on your fingers. This one puts more weight on your hands than a raised surface, though.
>>139122
>>139088No projecting of any kind here.I am a climber; you lot are not.The deleted post made it clear.
>>139017There is a plethora of material out there to answer this question. You simply do not care.>>139100>>139135>>139136And this is not the way to do it. See a physical therapist, ask a certified professional. The non-climbers on this website will not help you.
>>139145>>139146Gotta give credit where credit is due, that's a very convincing baitI can see this is not your first rodeo, I'm sure you'll get many (you)s
>>139147I dunno, mountain sports draw some of the worst people, and the gyms have stopped trying to filter them. He could actually just have gotten run off of mountain project.
Are there any series/things I can watch/read to get good at climbing? I've been watching all the bouldering tips videos on youtube like neil grisham, movement for climbers, lattice, etc. but I feel like when I actually climb I don't know what I'm doing. Especially with knowing how to move my hands/feet. I think I can do v3's but thats just relying on pulling strength. If there's any semblance of technique/coordination required I'm fucked
>>139185Look.Just climb.Your body doesn't know what it's doing at first, but the more you move, the more you figure things out, and your own particular flow/style. Climb all sorts of routes, watch other people climb the same shit, emulate their moves. Watching schwarma-man climb a 5.14 is useless when he can just haul himself up with a single-handed pinch. Climbing is really self-driven in that way, and we've all been there. If there's some faggot whose making fun of you for not knowing a specific move, tell them to fuck off.tl;dr get better at climbing by moving and experimenting on the wall, videos aren't all that helpful imo
>>139185>>139191>watch other people climb the same shit, emulate their movesThis. Copy people who do it easily. They probably make it look easy because their technique is good, so copy them, especially the women who can't rely on brute strength. Get a tight pair of yoga pants and show off dat ass.
my elbows hurt so fucking much :<
>>139248Do more antagonist training. Pushups, dips, bench press. It seriously gives instant relief
>>139248no antagonist training for you, it makes pain 10x worse on the long run
>>139289???
>>139248Theraband flexbar. First week of climbing I destroyed all my elbow tendons. I’d been lifting weights for a couple years, and just finished a cut, so I was primed to push well past my tendons limits. Then I came home one day that week and did an arms day, and my tendons were just done, couldn’t pick up a glass of water without pain. The flex bar, antagonist training for the grip, and dumbbell curls with looong eccentrics had me fixed up in 6 weeks without significantly limiting my time on the rock. That and avoiding long sessions on overhanging stuff. Don’t give up and rest, that’s almost as bad as continuing to climb past your tendons recovery limits.
>>139295What are you even saying?
>>139297See >>139147
>>139147Moot point, moot opinion. Summarily dismissed.>>139148Correct on the first account, wrong on the second.>>139297You will not be spoon-fed understanding. Enlighten yourself.>>139298Engagement with discussion will elucidate the topic at hand, and your posts serve to handicap such effort. Again, this exchange on the whole supports the original sentiment found>>139086here, which is to say that the sport of climbing is being undercut and diminished by the nonsensical contributions of its next generation.
>>139289
>>139323You sound pretty gay ngl
>>137580Everything's still icy where I'm at, still fun to climb though.
>>137652I still won't forgive mook for letting the hordes of WWE wrestling retards into /asp/. That board was genuinely good, even if there was trolling and toxicity like in the rest of 4chan.
>>139359Why are you still replying to that dude?
>>139044>Do you bros also lift or nah?Not really, was bouldering with a friend who's been lifting for 10 years now and holy fuck he sucked at climbing. I have no idea how but he struggled even at some 5A'sSo I see even less of a reason to start lifting
>>139368climbing is a different skillset than lifting retard
>>139457Obviously but /fit/tards always claim they'd crush climbers in climbing. Looks like they can't even crush beginners or children
>>139466>childrenthere are 9 year olds sending v11+. Please reevaluate your argument
>>139466>Obviously but /fit/tards always claim they'd crush climbers in climbingwho has claimbed this? there are 10,000 "BODYBUILDER VS CLIMBERS IN THE CLIMBING GYM" videos on youtube. someone who only climbs, and has done so for a while is obviously going to outclimb a gym rat who has never climbed before. Someone who lifts AND climbs is going to outclimb someone who has climbing as their only form of exercise 9 times out of 10
>>137967>>138937Update: This fellow is probably right. I stopped climbing for 2 weeks and put vaseline on it occasionally and it is slowly going away. I don't wanna wear socks in my climbing shoes though
>>139499>Someone who lifts AND climbs is going to outclimb someone who has climbing as their only form of exercise 9 times out of 10Additional mass outside of the climbing specific muscles will always make u worse then the lighter climber, climbing specific strength exercise =/= lifting, also u can only have a set amount of recovery to add lifting you would have to climb less making you worse by default
>>139499>Someone who lifts AND climbs is going to outclimb someone who has climbing as their only form of exercise 9 times out of 10doubt.jpg
>>139510moleskin or bandages over the hotspots when climbing can work, too.
>>139499>Someone who lifts AND climbs is going to outclimb someone who has climbing as their only form of exercise 9 times out of 10
>>139577this little japanese girl is the chosen one and single-handedly destroys all of climbing
>>137624>Asian woman hyped for BWCAs it should be
>>138609Holy shit, I’m brand new to climbing and this makes me want to be extra cautious. Thanks anon
>climbing for 5 months>1st climbing shoes already got a hole in them>picrelWhat do? Can I fix this myself? Do I have to buy new ones already? I thought they'd last me at least a year.
i have some quickdraws, but they are short. i want to increase their length, i hope it is cheaper than buying new bigger quickdrawswhere to buy not whole quickdraws, but only the part that joins each carabiner?
>>139614dogboneshttps://www.backcountry.com/b/petzl-express-quickdraw-sling?CMP_SKU=PTZZ20C&MER=0406&skid=PTZZ20C-ONECOL-S11
>>139146>>139323are even more relevant as this thread continues.
Is bouldering a good way to meet fit, lean women? I would think it would attract a certain body type since they would be the only ones who could successfully do it in the first place.
>>139602I used to go through 3-4 pairs a year.Depending on prices, resoling is an option. It's relatively cheap if you have a local place that will do it. You can also mail away your shoes, but that only makes sense if your shoes are expensive enough and usually in bulk.Another key to cheap resoling is to to it before you need extensive repairs that jack the price up. I used to have 2-3 shoes on rotation so that I can keep climbing while the worn ones get repaired.
>>139638anon, the ones that boulder to look good are the ones you want to avoid. Finding a community of climbers is the joy of finding people that are as weird as you and understand the need to climb rocks. That's more important. But really, if they're willing to go on a week long trip to red river with you, they're going to be pretty fit.
socal pals hmu to hang with an autist gumbytteng2@protonmail.com
>>139627Actually...yeah, that does seem right after all.Climbers these days are cut from a way different, dirtier cloth than their better counterparts from only ~8 years ago. The participants in this sport have gone far downhill since then, and they seem to keep getting worse as time goes on--not to mention worsening the climbing experience on the whole.Like, who really cares about meeting fit, lean men/women/whoever? Or which kindergartner will outclimb Magnus Midtbø? Or a training regimen based on an anecdotal experience of a stranger on the internet? People like this have lost the plot completely, and lost the ability to call themselves climbers; they're more akin to armchair quarterbacks versus actual football players.
>>139670reading hangdog days by jeff smoot, does crag communities like in the yosemite, joshua tree, etc still exist even? it seemed super chill and theres nothing like whats described in the book here but i dont live in the us
>>139671>crag communitiesI can speak for Yosemite and Joshua Tree both, and tell you straight up: No, they certainly don't exist in those places anymore, especially not in any way described in 'Hangdog Days'. It's a pretty sad state of affairs, actually, and a reflection at how climbing has changed for the worse over time.
>>139670>>139673>new bad, old goodpeople never change
You need to be homeless and live out of a van to be a real climber, if you use it as a recreational activity to do on the weekends and after work you deserve to die.
>>138444>boomer cloomy'all nasty
>you can't get training advice off of the internetWhat is this "go to a physical therapist" shit? Last time I went about climbing I paid half a grand out of pocket to be told to do arm raises, to buy a stress ball, and that climbing was bad for me. I didn't pay someone money to learn how to train from /fit/ either. If you think anons aren't supposed to be giving each other advice you're a nigger faggot and should leave the website immediately. Half of the generation that FA'd Yosemite died because they couldn't be fucked to use rope, and we're supposed to gargle their unwashed balls while wearing Boreal Fires. Don't fucking tell me that you have to pay a doctor to learn basic exercises. May your belayer never give you a soft catch.
>>139696Sounds like my experience going to physical therapist about back pain in my 20's, being told to do back exercises (overuse was the issue to begin with) and shoved out the door in 5 minutes. That was on company's dime though, if I'd had to pay for that shitshow I'd gone postal. In the end, advice of a well motivated person who has put the time to think about the issue instead of somebody doing nine to five and not giving a fuck is much more valuable.
>>139671Climb local and you will find your tribe
I mean, if you climb you are not a real climber, simple as
>>139696I think even the best physical therapists can only give you a framework to base your regimen on. I slipped a disc lifting, paid a local pt, got jack shit, paid for 3 months of coaching from specialists online, and it put me on the right track. Once I started modifying things to suit my specific needs and issue, utilizing the principles I learned from the specialists, then I made progress. Within a few month i was solid. Not one excercise from the local pt helped.I think you can largely pick up an appropriate framework for injury recovery online, then you need to tweak it based on your reaction, and principles which you can again learn online. If you’re a pro, the issue is time sensitive, and you have access to sport specific pts, by all means, use them. If you’re not, like the rest of us, bro science, detailed progress tracking/adjustment, and reading pubmed is a better option.
>>139724Yeah I don't wanna make it sound like they can't help you. I'm pretty dependent on my pain specialist to handle my migraines, and I can't imagine the the internet would help with that. PT's are great for injury recovery, but the more specialized a field is like climbing, the harder it is to find one that knows it.
I really don't care for how many kids are allowed in the climbing gym at one time. I went at 7pm yesterday and the bouldering section was still infested with young kids and their rich, french parents. Can there be a time of day that's just reserved for mid 20's autists with earbuds in who don't talk to each other.
>>139696>>139708>>139724PT here.Just like mechanics, teachers, plumbers, et al., we all have similar base foundational knowledge of our field...but some of us suck ass at delivering care while the vast majority of us are actually experts at what we do.Sounds like you've had some poor anecdotal experiences. Try again with a better PT sometime, and demand that they deliver the highest level of care with their practice. It's only what's right: We all have one body and one mind, and healthcare providers entrusted with this care need to take it seriously.
If you want good grip strength you should train Judo. It’s far more applicable than rock climbing.
But how will judo help me climb rocks?
>>139815It'll increase your hand grip, but climbing rocks is a waste of time. Train Judo.
>diagnosed with ecu tendinitis 5 months ago>still can't climb or do anything with it without it flaring up.I'm going to kill myself.
But what if I need to get to the top of a rock?
>>139747Yes, that's called during schooltime.
In a hypothetical situation where you are chased by an armed group in a forest, you can climb to safety while the judo dork tries to do some animu shit and gets wasted. Train climbing.
>>139829I'm going to naruto run my way up the side of the mountain and laugh at you from the top as you struggle. Believe it.
>>139794>If you want good grip strengthI don't climb for grip strength, I climb for climbing.But judo is still extremely based. Keep throwing, judo bro
>>139819but if climbing is a waste of time then so is judo
I remember a webm. It was a girl in red top and pants, and she solved the bouldering problem only using her hands, but it was like a solid minute of it. I think the handholds were either all red or all green.Does anyone have it? I couldn't find it.
>>139823get another judo master to throw you up it
>>139828my point was that they stick around for way too long and are still there when normal adults are getting to the gym from work. The school groups should really be finished by like 5:30 at the latest.
Just go to a 24 hour gym at midnight
>been out almost 2 months for a double knee bursitis>doc says I'm ok to climb againI'm back frens
>>139871you complain too much, unlike the climbers of old
>>139876bruh stabilize that thing
>>139911I did for 2 monthsNow I'm ok, feel great :)
>tfw gf is scared of heights and doesn't like climbing
>>139821Now try that for over a year now, with only a vague hope of being able to climb this summer, even short hikes and scrambling causes flare ups.It's like staring into the abyss every day isn't it? And some days you are the abyss.
>>139880you complain too little, the climbers of old would be disappointed you ruined their sport and let it go to shit
>>139927for people who don't like heights there's bouldering. mostly works for my gf. if she doesn't like climbing at all, then see >>139794
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mql_fazTj7Y&ab_channel=ClimbingStuff
>>139951what's the right amount of complaining to please the climbers of old? i want to restore the sport's former glory
>>139927>tfw no gf and 0 (zero) friends that want to even TRY climbing once
I only consider people my friends if they can climb V8
>>139927I'm afraid of heights too but I really enjoy bouldering. (My wife on the other hand loves rope climbing)So try bouldering with her
I have been grinding through the V5s on the MB 2017, decided to try some v6s and got some surprise flashes. feels good man
Which crashpad do you have, anon? Are you happy with it? I need my first one but they all look the same to me
>>140067They mostly are. The high end one (if you are really going to beat on it) is Organic. Their pads cost more, but they're much more durable and can have the foam replaced without having to buy a whole new pad. That and you can customize the colors to really tickle your autism. From the other pads that I've used, they're mostly the same. I have a full organic pad and the briefcase, but Metolius makes the nicest ones I've used other than mine.
>>140009>what's the right amountgiving two shits about the sport of climbing at all>to pleasewrong motivation>i want...you clearly don't>>139871seems pretty clear here
>>140094But my heart is in the right place, I feel Please, DO teach me
I really want to start climbing, but the only climbing place in my city only works with kids. Will serving in the military mountaineer unit suffice?
>>140067I got an older Ocun Moonwalk I bought from a friend. It was used to begin with and I've thrown that thing around, landed my 200+ pound fat ass on it and after many years of use there's nothing wrong with it.
>>140132dude, he's a self righteous prick. If you allow the love you bear for others to be your motivator, then through that you'll temper your bitching with kind actions and words. That's how you strike the correct balance. Stay kind and civil with gumbies that have yet to lose the capacity to learn, and bully the shit out of the ones whose ignorance is only outmatched by their propensity to harm others. >>140141Yes, mountaineering units will teach you everything you'd need to learn about mountaineering. Technical climbing is just a subset of that. It's still the military, so be prepared for that. If you're interested in that route, the dudes on /meg/ over at /k/ will know more than I do.
>>139956>for people who don't like heights there's boulderingironic since bouldering is way more dangerous than climbing with rope and a competent belayer
>>140282injury maybe, maybe not, but ive never heard of anyone die as a consequence of bouldering but in the last few years there where a hand full of climbing fatality's in my region alone
>>140282Maybe, but that's what (irrational) fear is. I may be scared of spiders, but I'll pet a dog even though that dog stands a much better chance of eating my liver.
>>140361>Aaaw, he's smiling!
>>140067Metolius makes good ones (esp the trifold). It's always been good since my area has shit landings and having 2 folds v 1 helps cover bad landings
>>137920downsized 2 numbers, super painful out of the box but the performance is worth it.After the break-in period is smooth sailing, even did 7 pitches with those in Arco.
>>139860You horny or something?
>>140421not him, but I just nutted so now I'm not
>>137920I wear a half euro size down from street/running shoes in everything la spo. I have the Miura laces, but they have a much narrower last than the velcro ones for some reason so I can't help you much. I think the closest last I have is the TC Pro, which is a good size for me that's a balance between performance and being able to wear them for a few hours
Bros some ponytail boomer spent the entire night doing the same bat hang v2 over and over in front of all the asian girls
>>140488Did he send it?
>>140490He had like a scripted foot slip into campus finish, I admire his dedication
>>140493Based
>>140417You never went in Arco, you are not a real climber
>>140504truth
>>140421No.It was just really impressive and I want to show it to my frens who are new to bouldering.
>>140016time to make climbing friends
reminder not to give him attention
>>140587who?
>>140580>The new generation of climbers is......literally better than you will ever be
did janny delete all the posts by that "real climber" guyNgl he was pretty based
how to meet climbing friendshow do I sus out when to hand people psychedelics to win their friendship
>>140609he's sperging right now>>140602>>140580>>140504
>>140609Just janitors cleaning out the trash. Kinda sad ppl have to troll niche topics on slow boards to get their jollies.
>>140622idk man, he may be for realthere are lots of people like this around
>>140623Yeah man, I can see being really pissed off at the way climbing is going. 10 years ago I would've thought a lot of climbers are weird Xavier Renegade Angel hippy parodies hanging around cliffs in Arizona, but now it's all just lofi hiphop beats asians and a bunch of french parents trying to get their 9 year old kids to project gym V11s with parkour dynos moves
>>140638>faggot mad about indoor climbers climbing indoorsClimbing is alive and well, maybe stop going to gyms, go outside and touch rock
Anyone of you used the new vegan Skwamas yet?How are they?I started with Tarantulas but then went for Scarpa Veloce and now I wanna try something else although I love the Veloce.
>>140609>"real climber"You may drop the quotes. I continue to visit here once in a while during free time.>>140615It has been quite a while since my last visit. These posts are not attributed to me.>>140622I have a personal rule against trolling. That is, nothing leaving this keyboard is untrue or written to spite others.
>>140821>These posts are not attributed to meMust have been AI
>>140825>Must have been AIor other posters lol
>>140832I prefer to think it was AIHow long before ChatGPT sends Burden of Dreams onsight?
>>137707Rehab usually isn't done with full blown rest, go see a sports therapist instead of a pill dispenser
Aparently Drago are good shoes for roman foot types the Scarpa site says they're for egyptian feet though.Which one is it? (I have no shops nearby to try them...)
>>140923feet
>>140932euthanize all footfags
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8m3RVlEuv2M&ab_channel=ClimbingStuffFinger training tutorial
>>140923what about us greek toe brosmost shoes aren't made with us long second toe-cels in mind
Finally healed and returned to my old level after obliterating my wrist four months ago but i can no longer handle slopers specifically. Any grip like pic related is instant pain but everything else is completely manageable, very weird and frustrating.
>>140989https://world.scarpa.com/page/climbing-collection-structureMost of Scarpa's lineup is, in fact, made for the greek foot shape.
