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File: climbing perfection.jpg (45 KB, 1080x720)
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Peak performance edition

>Should I start climbing?
Yes. Get a friend, find your closest gym, go there and rent some shoes. Start with bouldering. Usually two colored tape-marks set the start of the route and the color of the tape is difficulty. Route is the same-colored grips up until the topmost grip (not edge of wall). There's usually a difficulty chart around the gym somewhere. Two hands on the last grip = you've sent it, congratulations.

>How do I start toproping?
You have to learn how to belay. Almost every climbing gym has toproping courses if they have toprope walls. Same grip-color system as with the bouldering, but here it's more common with each route having a specific grade instead of being within a range of grades. The grading system differs internationally and for style see here for more info: https://www.sportrock.com/post/understanding-climbing-grades

>I just bought a BeastMaker 2000™, will I finally git gud?
No, you'll just fuck up your tendons. Google "Eva Lopez fingerboard routine" to learn how to use a fingerboards safely.

(Eternally remembered as /bog/)

Old thread >>107234
>>
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>>122759
based mods did nothing wrong
>>
>>122766
why was the last one deleted?
>>
>>122768
I'd like to know too, had a ton of replies and barely any shit flinging
>>
>>122768
OP was a janjafag
>>
>>122768
Hopefully because it stank like plebbit.
>>
>>122759
>>122766
They let these things compete nowadays?
>>
So I'm starting to wear through my Skwamas (first performance shoe I have). Still have my Tarantulas for when I need to wear em long time.

Looking to get a second performance pair for when I get the Skwamas resoled. I like the softness of the Skwamas, but if I could choose I'd have a slightly tighter heel (downsizing further would get really uncomfortable).

Any suggestions?
>>
>>122759
HOW DO I GET THROUGH THE V7 PLATEAU
AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
My one rep max pullup is 170% bodyweight
I can hang off a 15mm edge 10 seconds
is it technique?
>>
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What would you rate this problem?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xNcjj8CsC_4&t=99s
>>
>>122784
It's technique.
>>
>>122784
It's your technique
>>
ondras back is fucking insane
https://youtu.be/e0C8KOX7ROE?t=194
>>
>>122768
some whore didn't like missing out on replies
>>
>>122775
unironically based
>>
>>122794
>climbed in jeans and normal shoes
I'd say V0 to V1 tops
>>
>>122784
Hey maybe if you can hang 10sec with one arm off a 20mm edge it'll do something heh
>>
>>122794
font 3+
looks like he can get his hands in behind the wooden panels so he's pulling on jugs the whole way. one or two smears lay backing the jugs then he's on good feet to step up onto the sign and traverse across with ease then reverse out the same sequence for the downclimb
>>
I liked the other thread :(

also jesus the grading between gyms varies so much. was able to flash 5.12 at one gym and can barely squeak through 5.11a in my style at my home gym what

I don't even mean that in the cringe "my home gym grades harder than yours" way, just surprised at how much it can vary
>>
>>122890
its varies outside as well, thats why everyone gets their first 12a at tensleep
>>
>>122859
this is unironically how i think
if i cant do something i must just get stronger
there are only things that i cruise, and things I cannot do
i must forgo technique. i must become stronger
>>
>put my gym membership on hold because I threw out my shoes and am too lazy to go to an REI to try on new ones
why must it be so hard to find the right size climbing shoes, i'm afraid to order online
>>
so all of you guys either have arthritis or you're in the way of developing arthritis, right?
>>
>>122998
Why would you think that?
>>
Just sent my project that I have been working on for months and it felt really easy when I did it and now I feel like shit because I feel like I should have been able to do it earlier. I have never had this problem before, I am really worried that this is going to keep happening as I push grades and suck the fun out of climbing. How to escape this negative thought process?
>>
>>122759
Hello climber-bros. Judoka here trying to increase his grip strength in a simple way. Any advice? Thanks in advance.
>>
>>123049
i think climbing grip is different than other sports, I am not really convinced the finger training for climbing carries over to other sports, while maintaining high risk of injury for anyone who isn't acclimated to the specific type of training

my recommendation is to just deadlift heavy weights with no wristwraps, and do generic grip exercises
>>
>>122759
How do you deal with flappers on the palm of your hand? Doesn't happen often but it sucks
On the fingers you tape it and go on on your merry way, but on the palm? Do you keep climbing on it?
>>
>>123049
this >>123050 is correct. climbing grip strength is mostly isometric since your grip position is dictated by the shape of the holds in the rock where as I imagine the shape of the gi is to some extent subject to the grip you use and requires more contractile strength.

If you want my best guess I'd say something like towel deadhangs or pull ups progressively adding weight as your strength increases
>>
>>123049
No idea what kind of gripping you do in judo, but may as well check out what the best of the best do: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MLMpr1KJDY
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0C8KOX7ROE
Adam Ondra is universally regarded as the world's best (non-ice) climber, even thought he only finished 6th in the Olympics. Magnus Midtbö is a retired ex-pro climber who's considered one of the physically strongest world class climbers.
I'm not sure if hangboarding for finger tendon strength is particularly useful for martial arts, since I don't know if that's a deciding factor in grappling, compared to grip and forearm strength. Perhaps campusing off pretty large holds would be more relevant? I think as a judoka, you could try as many "climbing" exercises as possible, and yourself be the best judge of whether it's a movement or exercise you think translates into strength for judo techniques.
>>
>>123086
Can skip to 25:00 on the first vid, it's just wall climbing until then.
>>
I saw one youtube video, think it may have been Lattice Training, but it described an exercise for explosive pullups and chinups where you should do just two or three, but get up as quickly and explosively as possible, using as much strength you can in as few pulls as possible.
>>
>>122784
It's probably technique but 10 seconds on a 15mm edge is about what someone that climbs around V7 is typically at
>>
>>122784
Same question but how do I escape V4 hell?
>>
Should I hangboard at the beginning or end of my bouldering sessions?
>>
>>123179
Yes
>>
>>123176
enter V5 hell
>>
>>123176
do some pull ups
>>
>>123176
>how do I escape V4 hell?
adopt the font grading system
V grades are far too broad from V0 to V6 makes progression feel impossible
>>
>>123094
i think sports science has pretty much settled that this "explosive" tagged shit from crossfit is all stupid dogshit
there are predefined methods to increase power and responsiveness of muscles, and that is with a strictly regimented weights routine
instead of doing 2-3 pullups as quickly as possible, you should load 90lbs on your body and do 3 instead.
>>
>>123202
tree trunks are not synonymous with strength training
the best way to build "explosive strength" is to simply develop the muscle through traditional strength training
https://coachesinsider.com/track-x-country/the-high-jumper-strength-and-conditioning/
and wow look at it, yes it turns out athletes do strength training and not just arbitrary "do 3 pull ups really quick like"
>>
>>123199
>>123203
>bro just get better at sprinting by...by running at a constant, slow pace with 90lbs strapped to you! explosiveness and acceleration are myths bro!!!

nah bro. sure crossfit is retarded but people have been training explosiveness for ages and it works. go look at an olympic weightlifting squatting, c+j and snatching vs a powerlifter squatting or deadlifting. vast difference in how they move the weight.
>>
>>123214
idk bro, i think that is all technique and muscle memory. there is not such thing as training "explosiveness"
>>
obvious statement, but tomoa's coordination is next level. beautiful to watch
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O-3u8Ny8-4A
>>
>>123220
Why do climbers train on campus boards for "contact strength" then, rather than just hangboarding more? It's pretty well documented that there's a difference between contact strength and maximum finger strength.
>>
>>123278
I think you're right but "just do 3 pull ups real quick like" is a retarded training protocol
>>
Is there a visual difference in a climber's hand size vs a normal person's? Or is it all going to be in the wrists?
>>
>>123326
There's not really much muscle in the hand (other than the thumbs). Climbing does strengthen your tendons too but I doubt that's very visible.
>>
>>123326
other than some callouses in weird places compared to manual labour, not really
>>
>>123049
Don't do climbing. Do heavy farmers walks and deadhangs from a bar. Grabbing a bar is much closer to what you would do in Judo than anything you would do in climbing
>>
I hate when someone squeezes the shit out of my hand during a handshake then thinks im fucked up for crushing their hand back.
>>
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>>123345
lol, reminds me of this
>>
>doctor says i can't climb anymore
it's ogre
>>
>>123345
You are not supposed to change the power of the grip in the middle of an hand shake, that's why people look at you wierd
You either go in limp dicked or with the iron grip, no switching
>>123397
Damn, sorry bro
What happened?
>>
was in here around 9 months ago asking for advice on starting despite having tendonitis.
Unfortunately I never made it that far. Call me a faggot if you want, but I re-injured my collarbone in april and it has given me chronic minor pain ever since - it's the third time in 2 years i've done it to that same spot but instead of healing in <3 days like before, it's now every single day aches. I can't afford physio appointments, and it's left me extremely unmotivated and perhaps anxious to ever get near climban because I'm terrified of a re-injury making everything even worse.Every time I lift my left arm upwards in at least 3 different ways, I feel it. I gained 7 lbs of fat and I even forgot about the activity at all in all the other life turmoil, and feel like shit but also confirmed to myself that it may not be a real passion like I thought it was...if it was so easy to step away from. I'm doomed to just be one of those guys that looks at bouldering videos and never does anything.
>>
Going to be in situation where I live near a climbing gym for 2 months, have never had this opportunity before. Going to climb everyday, nothing will stop me from doing this, with this in mind, what's the best way to approach this to optimise progress
>>
>>123403
Don't go every day in the beginning, take some rest days or it will do more harm than good
Also, allow injuries to recover
>>
>>123403
do not overdo it
>>
>>123403
>Going to climb everyday
You'll get injured within the first month this way.
Go 2-3 times per week
>>
>>122759
How do you bros deal with flappers once you are home?
I just cut the excess skin off and disinfect it, that's it
Also, do you cover them with a band aid after climbing or nah?
>>
Anyone here use katanas? Looking at them but I'm hoping they're wide enough for my bunion
>>
>>123413
moisturize your hands more and you'll get less flappers
>>
>>123420
>Anyone here use katanas?
Fucking weeb!
(My wife has them and a bunion and climbs fine. But you should try them first, every foot is different after all)
>>
>>123420
i had a pair of katana laces but returned them
i have very wide feet and the toebox was compressing my foot laterally which felt terrible
I have resigned myself to always wearing scarpas because the toeboxes feel good for wide foot chads like myself.
>>
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I train on bridges.

My Biome is just flat, so I train climbing on trees and bridges
>>
>>123432
you fuckin weirdo

honestly based
>>
>123476
kys
>>
finally decided to start keep track of my moon board progress, flashed half of the 2017 v3s today, felt good. probably gonna come back and flash the rest of them after a nice 2 day rest
>>
>>
miho nonaka owes me sex
>>
>>123534
me when I can't send the futuristic v6
>>
>>123413
You can refix flappers by just taping or glueing them back in place for a few days. Heals faster than an open wound.
>>
I used my Veloce for 6 months, now I've gone and ordered a pair of Booster and a pair of Instinct VS.
Climbing mostly indoors (33% lead, 67% bouldering) which one will I probably prefer?
>>
>>123571
Instinct VS.
>>
>>123413

try to cut the skin in an oval, makes it less likely to rip again, cut the skin at an angle so it´s not protruding. keep it open so it can dry up, use sandpaper if it gets hard to smoothen the edges
>>
>>123571
how club is your foot?
>>
>>123420
I thought you were asking to use katanas to cut off your bunions.
>>
>>123534
Thankyou fake rocks
>>
>>123622
Not that much I think
>>
am I too old to start bouldering at 30?
>>
>13 year old asian girls dominating
yeah i don't think this semen slurping sport is for me
>>
>>123709
would it hurt your fragile ego that much when a small asian woman outclimbs you?
>>
I want a small asian woman to climb me
>>
>>123708
no go for it, i started at 28 flashed a v7(probably soft) yesterday
>>
>>123716
The strongest climber I've met was a 5' viet lady who climbed 5.13 caves
>>
>>123716
no. kinda weird that that’s where your mind went
>>
>>123709
>yeah i don't think this semen slurping sport is for me
Which sport is for you?
>>
>>123509
update: finished all of the v3s except for "brandnew for hedge"
what the fuck is the problem anyway
>>
>>123708
just don't push to hard or else you'll get injured
>>
Do climber girls give better hand jobs? Asking for a friend.
>>
>>123785
>calloused hands
>grip way too hard
yeah man it’s great
>>
>>123785
No, but climbing guys do
>>
>>123835
I always enjoy jerking my gherkin after a bouldering sesh
>>
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>>123785
sexo
>>
>>123835
Tell me more of your experiences!
>>
>>122759
What do you do to prevent the climber's hunch?
>>
>>123911
stretch your pecs and upper traps, strengthen your mid back and neck retraction
>>
>>123917
Thank you, I'll look that up
>>
>enjoy climbing too much to fully heal tendonitis
>not fully healed tendonitis limits my ability to enjoy climbing properly
vicious cycle I trap myself in. Doesn't help that I regularly work out if I stay out of my bouldering gym. I just don't want to lose my gains.
>>
>>124086
>entire social life revolves around climbing
I guess sore fingers are the price I pay to have friends.
>>
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>>124102
peak reddit
>>
>>124086
Less intensity more volume, swap bouldering for lead that should solve it after a while
It's more fun anyway don't >> me
>>
How do I get past my v7 plateau… I can flash v6 and campus v5s but hardstuck on v7 now.

I hit my first v10 a few months ago and prior to that I’d do the occasional v8-9 but it’s been months since I’ve climbed one now. My gym is a bit hard on grades to be fair. But it’s annoying af
>>
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>>124138
>campus v5s
>gym is a bit hard on grades
>>
>>124162
its not like I'm campusing all of them. But sure if they have an overhang its definitely doable. Maybe 10-20% of the V5s they put up. I've always been good at campusing.
>>
>>124169
time for some hard truths, that wasn't a v10
>>
>>124138
>campus v5s
wtf am i reading?
>>
30yo first time climbing here, I climbed some boulders this past saturday and my arms still feel a bit destroyed, any tips for bouldering in general and for physical recovery?
>>
>>123598
I thought so too, prefer the Booster though.
"Stiff" shoes aren't my thing it seems
>>
>>123911
>>123917
I do push ups
>>
Just did my third V7 and the difficulty between those 3 was so up and down
>>
>>124184
also not-20s and started last year. Be really conservative about ramping up time on the wall, and sleep has by far been the biggest factor in my own recovery. Also light cardio the day after has been nice if you can swing it
>>
>>124184
I just wait two days inbetween climbing sessions. Well enough to recover from climbing until im pooped then going the gym to squeeze out the last bit of endorphins.

You also need to supply your body with enough vitamins and proteins with [spoiler]AG1[/spoiler] shakes, bars or a good regular ass meal with chicken.

I also use magnesium and try to limit how much shit I carry at work.

Good luck bro.
>>
is Alex Honnold autistic? I think he is
>>
>>124184
I'm 32 and started recently.
I'm fighting with v0-2 routes, but once I reach top after an hour of struggling, it's the best shit ever. I go only once or twice a week tho and do other sorts of exercises/sports on other days, so I don't worry that much about recovery.
>>
Was almost pelted by a 10-15kg rock falling from 20m or so while I was belaying yesterday, was wearing a helmet and managed to dodge it but fuck me. Bit put off outdoor belaying for now
>>
>>124361
>was wearing a helmet
I doubt that would have saved you. This shit worries me, did your partner dislodge it? Could you have belayed it away from the route/off to the side?
>>
>>124366
Yeah he stood up on a rock without testing because it was a well reviewed route online and only a 6A+, but it dislodged and he fell. I was using a grigri so thankfully didn’t have to worry too much about the catch. I was probably 2m from the wall but definitely could’ve belayed from the side which I absolutely will in future. A lesson in complacency for both of us
>>
>>124264
Probably, he went to International Baccalaureate aswell
>>
>>124264
he's the Tom Brady of climbing
>>
>>124426
so when's the divorce?
>>
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sean bailey confirmed japanese
>>
>>124433
kinda generous on that height
>>
>>124426
I know who he is, that's why I think he's an autist
>>
Last session tomorrow on this V7 I've been projecting before the wall resets. It'll be my first indoor V7 if I do it.

see you on the other side climbanons
>>
>>124432
When the separation is final.
>>
>>124433
does he even speak any japanese?
>>
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Seeing my 5'7" and up friends breeze through some of routes just by reaching out and touching the rocks while I've (5ft) been struggling with jumping to get to them is highly annoying
>>
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>>124433
>this twink gets yo pipe miho
its not fair
>>
>>123038
Climbing is more about falling and overcoming your weaknesses than videos of sends make you think.
Enjoy the process and have fun.
>>
>>123038
If it felt easy, you worked on it enough to make it easy. Did you not try hard enough on your earlier tries?
>>
>>124468
think bigger my man
climb v16 and win some ifsc comps and you too can pipe asian comp climbers
>>
>>122784
just keep focusing on strength & ignoring technique!!!
>>
>>123176
use your feet
>>
>>123413
i pack them with a beewax lotion bar, or polysporin & cover with a bandaid when i can.
>>
>>123785
depends if you let them chalk up first.
>>
>>124138
>My gym is a bit hard on grades to be fair.
i assure you, it's not.
>>
Anyone know of a decent resole service cheaper than $50? Otherwise, it's actually cheaper for me to buy brand new with REI coupons.
>>
Anyone else have that slut at their gym who only wears a sports bra & only climbs with dudes?
>>
>>122759
climboids deserve to be put into climbing camps.
>>
>>124814
>climbing camps
Sounds fun!
>>
what did magnus mean by this?
>>
>>124861
fuck he's gonna put us in climbing camps >>124814
>>
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>>124862
>>
>>124861
HAHA ily
>>
>>124863
Oh fuck, I can smell it. Just shoot me in the head please, don't make me suffer like this!

I unironically think about using socks to reduce the smell, how hard will my performance suffer? Climbing around V5 atm, so still pretty mediocre
>>
>>124872
a bunch of the japanese lead climbers (male and female) wear socks
ai mori beat janja twice this year while wearing socks
in short: socks are fine. you'll suck at (or be good at!) climbing regardless of your choice
>>
>>124896
>socks are fine. you'll suck at climbing regardless
Perfect, thanks anon!
(I'll try with socks next time)
>>
>>124872
No socks is just a boomer meme with zero facts behind it
>>
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>>122759
There's a "female" climber by the name of Brittany Goris. I'm absolutely convinced after seeing this interview / clip that they're trans based on voice and other factors but I can't find any confirmation online. Brittany was competing in women's comps as far back as 2011. Brittany has been making a lot of "female first ascent" records and it concerns me if they're trans and stealing this from real women.
> https://youtu.be/8lLgf5jyU8w
> pic rel
>>
>>124944
sounds like a dude to me, sucks to be a woman when even men are better than them at womans sports
>>
>>124944
>stealing this from real women.
lmao proven once again that men are the better women
>>
>>124944
Janja btfo! Lmao
>>
>>124944
I'm an expert tranny clocker. To me, this just seems like a woman with an unfortunate voice.
>>
>>124947
>>124945
Men are physically stronger than woman. Most sane people agree with that which is why men and women's sports are separate. Not really an "own" like you think it is.
>>
>>124944
think they're actually a female, just really unfortunate genetics resulting in fucked up voice and face
funny how the strong empowered american trad girls make a huge deal out of climbing 5.13+ and write up pages of blogs about their inner struggle and journey, meanwhile babsi zangerl just crushes without all the drama
god bless the euroqueen
>>
They already do drug testing. Just do a genetic testing for male or female. No bullshit "I feel like XYZ today". Call yourself whatever you want, but you compete in your genetic category. The logical conclusion to this is they won't be called men's or women's sports anymore, but "XY World Cup Finals" or "XX Individual Medley". People outside the XX and XY categories can compete in their own category, like the paralympics do.
>>
>>124944
Obviously needs to post vagoo to end the debate.
>>
you're all deranged lol
>>
>>124979
The transactivists would start screaming about how the policies discriminate against intersex people. Trannies love to use intersex people as pawns in their arguments.
>>
>>124955
>>124977
Yeah I'm thinking unfortunate genetics but real woman... Maybe intersex? The fact that they've been so active as an author / editor on LGBT children's books and seem so outspoken in their interviews about LGBT issues is another thing that reinforces being trans. If they were competing as a woman 10 years ago it's probably just had genetics or maybe she blasted steroids
>>
I want to see Janja compete against men on a men's route. That bitch is insufferable.
>>
>>125038
Would be cool, maybe she can compete with the guys or she gets completely btfo.
Either would amuse me greatly
>>
>>125038
>>125040
most likely answer, for bouldering anyway, is she'd get btfo

see here studio bloc masters 2020, where qualis are on the same boulders for men and women. she'd be ranked 43rd in mens:
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf

and 2019, where she'd be 56th, beating out the accomplished igor depoorter of belgium (surely you've heard of him before?):
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QM.pdf
https://darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2019/03/QW.pdf

not the same qualis format as world cups, but the gap is fairly clear
>>
>>125117
i want a top male boulderer to come out as trans and compete against women. seems like ifsc and climbers are such cucks that they allow it to happen. we just need a tranny top climber to do it lmao
>>
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>>124947
>>125124
lol
lmao even
>>
>>125126
who is this cute boy
>>
>>124102
I hope this person dies a slow and extremely painful death
>>
>>125126
Literally unbeatable, no matter the gender (imaginary or real)
>>
>>125124
why would you want that? if you dont like trannies it's good that it hasn't happened in climbing yet
just to show that the men are stronger than women? this is obvious to anyone with over 70 iq and a middle school understanding of biology
>>
>tfw you want a place to shitpost about climbing
>don't want to go to reddit
>also don't have a weird fixation on ranting about trans people

god fucking dammit you guys
>>
>>125192
ywnbaw
>>
Anyone worried they will get "bored" of climbing one day? It has never happened to me but I get paranoid bc my depression makes it hard to enjoy things and this is one of the only things I enjoy.
>>
>>125219
It could happen, anon, but you shouldn’t worry about it too much. You may get bored or burn out and yet you can always come back after taking a break.
In fact, you may stop climbing for a while in the future, then come back and enjoy it even more than ever before, or find something else that you like even more. Don’t worry too much.
>>
>>125219
a lot of climbers take up fishing
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>>125222
I love u anon
>>125223
I dont want to hurt animals
>>
>>125219
Asking this question is indicative you don't have enough hobbies/interests. Strive to be a well-rounded person.
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>>125182
Janja "the GOAT" needs to be humbled
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>>125269
I mean, not really
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>>125269
her mental is already shattered after ai mori came in and stomped her 2x in a row. she didn't even compete in morioka at the combined world cup, even though she was in japan right before it (and maybe during). she was terrified of losing again
>>
>>125287
KWAB
>>
>>125284
what causes this? excessive stress?
I see many climbers aging very poorly. I think it is a combination of obsessive training (which is very common even with many amateurs I observe) and very low bodyfat.
thoughts on this?
>>
>>125311
>very low bodyfat
Yes, afaik anything below 8% (and I think around 15% for women) for a longer period of time throws your hormonal balance off.
Bad for men but really fucking bad for women
>>
I saw Janja here in SG and she looks good.
I think this pic was taken way back. Her pimples are gone now.
>>
>>125314
makeup vs no makeup anon, that pic is from tokyo so a year and few months ago
>>
>>125236
How am i supposed to be a well-rounded person if i can barely enjoy things
>>
Black Diamond or Petzl?
>>
>>125373
Petzl
>>
>>125219
I have no solution but right there with you bud.

Originally felt like gaming was the only thing I could enjoy then that stopped one day. Found climbing and it feels like gaming did originally, enjoyment-wise. Kinda sucks I can't just do it all day without fucking my body up.

I imagine if we ever lose our enjoyment for climbing, we'll just find something else
>>
>>125415
>Kinda sucks I can't just do it all day without fucking my body up.
Agreed anon. It's also hard to find climbing partners (I don't like bouldering as much).
>we'll just find something else
I hope
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In the market for a new shoe, wondering what people's recommendations were. I've been wearing the Solutions for ~2 years now and I liked it but I always found the heel hooking to be weird since its like a big foam ball protruding from my heel. IDK.
I am thinking about wearing a shoe with a softer rubber than the Solutions (4mm XS Grip 2). I have a medium shaped foot and fit in the solutions well. In summary:
-Medium/Soft Rubber (XS Grip 2 or softer)
-Aggressive
-Soft midsole
-Good heel hooking and toe hooking
-Velcro preferred
-Designed for mainly indoor climbing
-Any price!
Right now I am thinking about the:
-La Sportiva Theories (My #1 Option at the moment but I hear that the heel-hooks hurt)
-La Sportiva Solution Comps
Also if anyone has worn "women" versions of these shoes I would love to hear about if you found them any different or maybe even better from the standard versions. Leaning towards the Theory but this stupid chart is making me second guess myself and go with the Solution comps instead
>>
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Best part of getting sprayed with shitty beta is watching the sprayer try it themselves.
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>>125463
just get good so that nobody even thinks of spraying shitty beta at you, and if they ever ask you for beta just campus it and say "i dont know, everyones body is different" and walk off
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>>125434
ive always thought unless you're a v10+ climber fancy comp shoes are like lipsticking a pig
just buy whatever you want and train harder
>>
Bros I just got absolutely mogged by a pregnant lady. I can never show my face at this gym again...
>>
>>125523
It's okay lad, if you ever feel good at something just remember there is an eight year old Asian child doing it twice as well as you
>>
>>125523
I get mogged by 12 year olds, you get used to it
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>>125542
To be fair 12 year old climbers are like 12 year old skateboarders. It's not hard to be top of the class when you weight 8 pounds.
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>>122759
Yo, i need your help, i want to gift climbing related gear to a girl that i like this Christmas, i've been looking at rope and climbing holds on amazon but i don't know what's good or "universally" useful. What would you recommend me or what's something that you would like to get that's climbing related?
>>
>>125563
Just get her a grigri+, chicks dig grigris.
>>
>>125434
LS theory is an amazing shoe for indoor bouldering, good outdoors too but excels at smearing, not great for stuff with small edges. The sensitivity of the shoe is unparalleled, not even the dragos match it. Comfy right out of the box, too.

I've also started wearing the Mad Rock Drones and they are the perfect compliment to the theory, best heel of any shoe out there, seriously feels like cheating when heel hooking with these. They're a bit stiffer than the theory, they are better on edges while still being quite sensitive. Hard shoe to get into at first, but if you can get into them they are definitely worth a shot. Cheap, too. You'll see lots of pros wearing them outdoors in vids.
>>
>me chilling with my girls
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>>125519
we're all gonna make it
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>>125563
Get her a belay harness essentials kit.
>>
>>125563
chalk
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>>125563
a cute chalk bag :)
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>>125657
Don't forget to cum in it first so that every time she chalks up, it's like she's giving you a handjob.
>>
>>125588
the jp team seems chill as hell
>>
How do you do fellow rock climbing enthusiasts, I am looking to purchase some nuts. Which brand of nuts do you recommend? Black Diamond seem the best bet but they are quite expensive. Which nuts are the best all round. I need some nuts right now in my hand.
>>
>>122759
I've got this wierd discomfort in the back of my left knee, like something is trying to pop out but I can't understand what could that be
I suspect either a nerve or the semimembranosus cause it feels like something small and skinny (that's why I think of a nerve)
I got plenty of rest (9 days and counting) but I MUST climb in a couple of days, won't go hard but I'm still quite sp00ped
>>
>>125721
Sounds like you have nerve damage anon, if you keep climbing your leg will have to be amputated.
>>
>>125719
Dmm
>>
Anyone else find solutions to offer bad heel hooks? I feel like my foot is gonna pop out of my shoes whenever I throw one on the kilter. My shoes are tight as shit so I know it’s not that.
>>
>>125755
Testarossas have been my favorite shoe for heel hooks. It feels like a lego piece clicking into place sometimes.
>>
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>>124138
your gym is soft as baby shit. post location or forever live in shame that your V10 is probably everyone's V4.
>>
https://youtu.be/ht_T-Wlbx78
>>
Can somebody give me a general conversion of British to US climbing grades?
>>
>>126009
Something like this one?
>>
>>125969
>Ai Mori winslol
>>
>>122759
noticed a large influx of trannies and other maladapted individuals to the bouldering gym in the last year or two. fortunately they do not shit up the outdoor crags or system boards (yet). climbings reputation as a safe space/encouraging sport is probably the cause here.
>>
>>126055
Get out of the cities and you won't have that problem.
Alternatively look for gyms that focus on athletes instead of hobbyists, you'll only encounter """normal""" people there
>>
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>>126055
i also notice this, i am in texas
there are a lot of extreme fatties, entire families of fat parents and their fat kids. i don't believe that climbing is a good place to start if you are obese.
i think it is the result of a targeted marketing campaign to get fatties into commercial gyms so they can "yes queen slay"
i have only seen a few troons, but a relatively large amount of lgbt people. at least those people are usually under 30 bmi
>>
>>126170
climbing is okay if you're moderately fat and have reasonable expectations that you're gonna top rope and be stuck with 5.5-5.7 for a long time. There's a lot of 5.2-5.5 stuff outdoors they'd be fine on too.

What I despise is trying to sell 300 pounders that they can be a serious climber without losing weight. There was an issue of gym climber a while back about how an athlete sponsored by an Italian shoe brand coped. And while I understand it's hard walking into a gym when you're out of shape, it was just him whining about not being able to send without losing weight. And how his plateau was so low and he was just gonna live like that.

Not everyone has to be Alex Handjob but I don't want people that won't get in decent shape acting like they can't live without climbing.
>>
>>126172
>There was an issue of gym climber a while back
https://www.gymclimber.com/can-bigger-people-climb-drew-hulsey-found-climbing-is-every-body/
yep his name is drew huxley, he is pic rel in >>126170
he is a whiny fat sack of shit

i have seen twig twink boys and fat-ish porky office job dudes get relatively ripped from a couple years of bouldering and a bit of weight training (0 to one arm pull up, etc..) but I have never seen a fat fuck transform from it.

imagine if they tried to sell MMA or judo to hamplanets, its basically the same thing.
tell butterball to get greased up and spin around on the mats to lose weight, its a disservice to the sport and to the fatties who participate. there is absolutely a barrier to entry to climbing, maybe shoe companies are just trying to hock shoes at whatever fatties will buy them, but its not good for anyone really
>>
>>126179
I have a climbing partner who absolutely was 300+ when he first tried climbing and is now 180 with a six pack. But he's not your normal dude about it and it took him a long time and miles of climbing to get there. And to your point, nobody babied him about his weight. If he wanted to climb well he knew he had to get in shape and stop eating his feelings.
>>
>>126179
all the talk about
>and then i connected with my therapist
>and then i went to social media to share my experiences, and make a safe space for larger bodied people
>COMMUNITY!
every fucking time, when will these people look in a mirror and accept reality for once?
>>
>>126170
70% of Texans are overweight. Half of those are obese.
>>
https://youtu.be/FwVLPgzfUpw
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>>126231
yeah well 99% of gyms are conventional planet fitness type fatoid friendly gyms
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>>126389
https://youtu.be/iOVbAmknKUk
>>
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This shit kinda hard ngl
>>
>>126438
will anon be 4chan's first 9A boulderer?
>>
>>126438
sick
>>
>>126438
all those tick marks make me sick
>>
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Hello /cg/. I am a 6b+ climber new into the sport. I don't have a real workout regiment since i dont really know wtf to do in the gym after i've finished climbing.

Right now I do:

4x sets of pullups to failure (about 6 reps in the beginning, last set is usually like 3)
3x sets of Bicycle kicks on the ground (core) until failure
4x sets of bicep curls into shoulder press until nice burn. (9kg on each side so 8 sets)
3x sets bench press (30kg 7 reps)
3x sets of squats until failure (about 20kg+15kg)
3x sets of some lower back exercise where i hold a 10kg weight on my chest and raise my body on this thing, until failure.

I train 2 times a week but i wanna add more days. My recovery rate used to be like 2 days but i havent had real post-workout pain(? idk wtf its called) since like the first day i actually went to the gym so i think i could climb every other day by this point.

I also fuck around a little bit on the hangboard but my friends tell me that I shouldnt even bother at my level.

I feel like since i dont really know wtf to do to improve i just try to max out on everything until failure and it seems really amateurish. I also wanna dip my toes into adding weight when doing pullups and stuff so I can REALLY improve. Any good directions to regiments you guys have tried when you were beginners like me? Like I don't know how to work out. Do I just put on more and more weight? How do i make myself make more reps on pullups? Add weights or just do bodyweight only???? confuse

Also im 173cm/59kg if thats relevant in any way.
>>
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>>126055
>maladapted

heh
>>
>>126620
Just keep climbing regularly. As you get more experienced you will start to find where you fall short. Technique is generally more important than raw strength if you want to see steady progress anyway.
>>
>>126170
A fat girl came into the climbing gym recently. Easily the fattest person in the gym. I just felt second-hand embarrassment for her.
>>
>>126018
>5.10c
>advanced
I-I'm advanced?
>>
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for me it's hannah meul
>>
>>126620
Check out Lattice Training on youtube.
>>
>>126170
>i am in texas
>there are a lot of extreme fatties
Yeah, obviously, Texas has more fat people than most countries.
>>
>>126170
fat and using tc pros in the gym
what's the worse sin?
>>
>>126723
the trick is to be so fat that you destroy the aggressive arch in your barely used solutions
>>
>>126687
>Climb 23 Aus
>Expert
Based me?
>>
>>126848
omg... what is an olympic climber doing on 4chan? can i get your autograph..?
>>
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/cg/! What is best in life?
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>>126930
To crush your projects
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>>126620
>3x sets bench press (30kg 7 reps)
>173cm/59kg
lon...-london ?

>lower back exercise
>until failure
Boy I sure wonder what could go wrong
>>
>>126179
>that article
>"some awesome 5.3 and 5.4 climbs awaited us"
>5.3 and 5.4
Literal children's grades kek. Imagine having a body that useless. Also he talks about being fat like it's this unchangeable thing about his body and not something he could fix by not stuffing his face.
>>
>>127047
I can't even imagine the point in climbing when you spend 90% of your time on jug ladders. The entire problem solving portion of climbing (the best part) is entirely absent.
>Yeah my beta is left hand, then right hand, then left hand, then I get tired and fall off.
>>
>>127100
the beta could unironically be "walk up this slightly angled piece of rock"
but then again the stairs are probably a challenge for him...
>>
>>127100
Exactly. Plus, what gym has lots of 5.3s and 4s to climb? In my gym there's a small kids' wall with 2-3 routes but the rest of the gym has adult grades.
He so desperately wants to fit in with the community while he is physically incapable of understanding why climbing is enjoyable in the first place. I hate fat people so much it's unreal. I literally want to bully him.
>>
>>126179
>They’d say, “Keep your hips to the wall,” when I was physically incapable of achieving that kind of suggestion.
kek
>>
>>127134
>he is physically incapable of understanding why climbing is enjoyable in the first place

Oh no he's enjoying the same thing I do but in a different way, get a grip anon your just mad you aren't good enough to get sponsored or fat enough to get sponsored. Have fun sending kinda hard stuff but not hard enough to justify cramming your feet in those triple downsized shoes while I'm plopping my pigs in some comfy and free TC's for TR sends.
>>
>>127159
>he's enjoying the same thing I do
What exactly are you enjoying? Because all he is doing is climbing ladders. No problem-solving. No creative thinking. Sounds pretty boring!
>you aren't good enough to get sponsored
I climb better than him lol
>fat enough
Hate fat people so no thanks
>cramming your feet in those triple downsized shoes
I wear comfy beginner's shoes in my size and still climb 100x better than that worthless fatso.
>>
>>127159
>le "ur just jealous" meme
Literally no one here is jealous of a neurotic morbidly obese man that can't climb and his fat wife
>>
>>127159
But can't he just climb shit and enjoy it in silence or with his friends like normal people do instead of being a typically obnoxious fatty?
>>
this is a really stupid to post but i made a personal goal of working out to doing pullups before starting indoor bouldering but i can only do chinups so far and it will probably take me a while again to do pullups but i really want to start climbing now can someone just tell me to go
>>
>>127169
Just go you stupid sexy femboy, after a few weeks of climbing you should be able to do your pull up(s)
>>
ondra is just way too good, four 9a onsights now and only other 9a onsight is megos back in 2013 (which is a fraud, btw)
second most 8c+ os is maybe piotr schab with 11, ondra has 40+
>>
>>127169
>working out to doing pullups before starting indoor bouldering
Unnecessary goal. You get better at climbing thru climbing. So start now. I climb & can't do chinups lol.
>>
>>127169
use your legs nigger
>>
>>127185
>I climb & can't do chinups lol.
Are you fat and/or a woman?
I've never heard that before of someone who actually climbs
>>
>>127189
woman
>I've never heard that before of someone who actually climbs
oh ):
>>
>>127198
my gf climbs and she can do 5 pull ups
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>>127198
>woman
>0 chin ups
Ok that I can believe (also could mean that your technique is really good!)
But still, my wife climbs for 8 months now and can do 6-7 pull ups
>>
>>127209
>>127214
Well MY gf can do 20 pull ups and is an astronaut!
>>
Yeah well my gf can do 5 +50% bodyweight pull ups (she lives in my head)
>>
>>127214
>also could mean that your technique is really good!
thanks i love u!
>>
>>126930
Masturbating on top after sending a route.
>>
I've had to start jacking off before going to the gym because there's too many cute girls there lately. How do I ask a climber girl out? What grade to I need to be able to send before I can talk to them?
>>
>>124102
Serious question. Are all climbers libfags?
>>
>>127169
You don't need to do pullups retard. You're descended from tree dwelling apes. You already know how to climb. Also, use your legs faggot
>>
>>127160
>t. indoor only climber

>>127161
>le "nuh uh" meme

>>127162
Can't you just ignore it like normal people do instead of being a typically obnoxious poster
>>
>>127287
no but there are a lot of lefty climbers

>>127298
lmao the irony
>>
>>127287
go back to your containment board
>>
>>127287
I climb and I'm racist
>>127298
>t. fatty who can't do anything above a 5.5 jug ladder
>>
>>127280
>What grade to I need to be able to send before I can talk to them?
V0
"I'm just starting out, can you help me?" is a great way to start a convo, just don't be an autist about it
>>
>>127225
based buff astronaut gf enjoyer



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