Arco Rock Master is coming up on July 29th. It's the biggest non-IFSC climbing comp of the summer and always features several of the world cup regulars.
https://www.rockmasterfestival.com/2022/en/one-month-to-rock-master-16-golden-climbers-coming/

IFSC World Cup Briancon starts tomorrow! Just lead category for this one.

Only comp I care about is CrackFest.

Why are minorities under-represented in climbing and how can that be changed?

>>107251
i want to go to crackfest, i got a couple bucks on it.

are the briancon lead qualifications streamed anywhere?

>>107262
Plz no.

>>107234
Why is climbing considered a reddit sport?

>>107262
They're not underrepresented at all. They just climb different things (trees)

>>107251
>CrackFest
i, too, like drugs

>>107234
Climbing is fun. I wish it wasn’t so expensive for a membership at my local gym

>>107292
Because its for spergs who don't have enough coordination to catch a ball, enough social skills to play as a team, or enough grit for combat sports

Great semi-final round at Briancon. Women's side was very competitive. Men's side unfortunately had a tough bit at hold 41+ that a bunch of the finalists fell on. Jesse Grupper continues to prove he's going to be hitting podiums for some time to come. His surprise finals appearance earlier in the season was no fluke.
>>107262
First: I hate you and people like you. How come you never complain about the wonky demographics of basketball? Eh? How can we get more white and asian athletes in the NBA, huh? Fuck off. Second: speed climbing has a completely different demographic. The top guys on the men's side are mostly Indonesian.

Any books on climbing you'd recommend?

>>107551
What kind? Books about being a better climber, practical rope skills/alpinism or books about/by professional climbers?

>>107320
Live for the white powder.

i'll be posting webms from the semis

>>107551
Sherman Exposed

>>107262
Probably the same reason why snow sports (skiing, snowboarding, hockey, etc.) participants are mostly white people; high financial barrier to entry. It costs a lot of $$ to get everything needed to participate. Another factor to consider is a lot of times the people who participate in these sports are in it because their folks did the sport as well. There are hockey families, ski families and of course climbing families, i.e. the Raboutous

Memphis Rox is locally attempting to change all that by not turning away anyone who can't afford day passes by offering people the opportunity to volunteer their time in exchange for gym memberships. Presently it's 5 volunteer hours for a month membership, which is a pretty good deal imo. My hope is that at least there, it'll create an opportunity for regular folk to go through the transformative experience that is climbing

>>107551
Anon if your mental game is weaker than you'd like I have a gift for you and everyone in this thread. I bought the book and then I bought the audiobook "The Rock Warrior's Way" by Arno Ilgner and I went up two grades by changing the way I interpret climbing.

https://gofile.io/d/9m3zoo

>>107581
cute

>>107576
Black people should learn how to swim before learning how to climb. There are no tragic stories of blacks dying needlessly because they couldn't send a V6.

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>>107583

>>107573
Did you like it? It reads like Sherman jerking off for me. I'm at page 60 and haven't picked it up back up

i climb like jesse grupper

>>107624
like a fairy?

>>107580
Thanks I'll check it out.

>>107624
It's a little weird. I bet he's very good at outdoor. Anyway congrats to him on his first gold medal.

Bouldering from the World Games last week. Moon commentary featuring Akiyo Noguchi. There are some world cup people in this but none of the biggest names. This was in Alabama and apparently it was crazy hot there at the time.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxqsEUaHCPA

>>107902
>Nimrod Marcus
Do Jews really?

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>brushes off chalk from holds
>re-applies chalk on holds again

>>107589
black people die all the time by "going for a swim" in lakes and ponds because they forget that they don't know how to swim
usually it's just drunk retard teens being retarded, but blacks unironically have higher bone density on average which makes it harder for them to float in water.

>>108080
geekclimber was right, chalk is a cope

>>108080
>chalks up
>blows excess chalk off hands
>dips in to chalk bag a second time

>>108080
>chalk up
>running start problem
>missed completely, didn't touch any holds
>"hmm, i better chalk up"

>>107581
I saw her and a few other pro climbers in studio bloc as they were doing a training session on the way to a comp.
She actually looks that fucking divine. Insane how pretty some women can get.

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>>108080
>>108251
>>108259
>>108407
>not using chalk as part of your mental game to focus
>mfw I even chalk up on mostly feet heavy slabs
>mfw chalking makes me feel safe and strong

Chalking up compulsively is more like an excuse to fidget. You get nervous and insecure so you find something to do with your hands.

What is the highest indoor bouldering grade you guys have sent?

>>108492
V4/6B+
But I started around a year ago, so there's still plenty of room to improve (I hope)

>>108492
>6B+ in Germany
Dunno how that translates to freedom gyms. I've heard from quite a few that the US has the softest grades and UK/France have the hardest amount of sandbagging. Germany is somewher ein the middle I reckon.

>>108503
>>108508
Why is the transition to 6C so hard to make?

>>108492
V5/6C+
But I started around a year ago, so there's still plenty of room to improve (I hope)

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>>108492
V7 once but mostly I climb 4/5. I've been climbing regularly for 4 years and plateaued at this grade for almost that long.

Which is plenty strong enough to climb cool shit outdoors so I don't really mind. Maybe once I run out of awesome 5.9s to climb I'll get more into training.

>>108509
>Why is the transition to 6C so hard to make?
Because most gyms tend to steepen the curve around that mark.
I remember reading that early grades up to V6 differ wildly from region to region but things tend to equalize from that point on worldwide.
Anything below V5/6 is mostly there to flatter your ego and get you hooked.
Only the people actually focusing on proper technique, strength, tension and flexibility tend to break that plateau.

If you want a decent gauge your actual skill level just go to fontainbleau. Most gym "6C"s wouldn't even be considered a 5b there.

>>108503
>>108516
???

>>108492
V8. But it played to my strengths. One of those "This is my route, it was made for me!" kinda things. Normally V5-V6.

The only 5B ones I have done have been with jugs that are easy to hold on to. The hard part is that the wall is usually angled and it's a long route. I guess that means I have the strength but not the technique?

>>108622
6B*

>>108492
My gym grades in ranges. I can sent most of the V2-V4, but I've only ever sent two of the V4-V6, so my highest grade is probably V4.

>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4P46nrXgG64
Rock Master in Arco started, stream's a bit funky atm but I hope they'll fix it before the climbing itself starts

>>108717
Interesting format, never watched this before

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>>108492
Using pic related format, I've climed one orange and most red. So I'm probably around 6c, 7a on a good day

I got a 16 yo son who is a bit of a fag and I've managed to bribe his ass into joining me in the climbing gym about a month ago. He's currently sending 6a+ and will do 6b by next week. Am I raising weak sperm or should I be proud?

>>108841
why would you speak like this about your own son?

>>108841
"Asking for my son" Yeaaaa your """son""" is ok. You should chill out on the self depreciation anon.

>>108717
>No isolation
>Athletes can try to boulders in advance
Mickey mouse climbing competition

>>108906
Arco Rock Master has always been a sort of for fun event in middle of the world cup season. I do like the lead race though.

>>108913
Actually I changed my mind. The knockout format is entertaining. Great separation between the athletes. The limited attempt makes it more exciting and adds some pressure to flash the boulder. You still get some tops cause they practiced it beforehand but the route setters are allowed to change some holds. Great comp overall.

>>107372
I feel like the unathletic spergs get filtered out hard by anything above a V4 though

>>108918
t-thanks

I feel like I only have energy to do 5 good climbs in the beginning of a session. After that my energy will ne noticeably drained for the rest of the session and every climb is just going to be worse and worse. Do I get tired too fast? Should I maybe take longer breaks?

>>109035
if you are new to this sport like me, then it will take time for our body to adapt, the longer we go the easier it will be to do harder bouldering for longer periods

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>>109059
based miho nonaka poster

So I've been climbing for two months now about 2 or 3 times per week and lately my fingers hurt during the week, nothing to serious but noticeable.

Is this normal? Should I stop for a week or two?

>>109137
I'd stop for a week and if it's gone still keep it slow and easy for a month or so.
Maybe you've advanced in difficulty a bit too fast? Finger tendons take a long time to adapt

>>109144
I'll do that, I don't think I advanzed fast or anything but I'll take it easy for now

>>109137
I'd just try dropping down to 2 times a week. Also try to avoid doing more strenuous climbing like full crimps all the time. Where does it hurt exactly?

Is a 6A+ on a moonboard basically the same as a 6A+ outside?

Bulk sessions are the best. To casually do the routes the casuals struggle with, and then simply move on and do 10 more. Hits right in the ego, good stuff.

>>109652
This is insanely true, nothing better then flashing a V3 tons of gumbys are struggling with

>>109682
>>109652
I definitely know that feel, but it's poor form to flash a route that people are working on. I used to just climb every V3/4 in the gym on volume days but I noticed that half the time I climb something that a group is projecting they'll give up and move elsewhere right afterward. so now I skip those routes. no need to kill their fun.

>>109574
plenty of easier 6A+ outside then the harder 6A+ moonboard benchmarks

>>109754
Yeah I know, usually they ask for tips afterwards and I help them. Or, as most recently, a guy invented a new very interesting and difficult static beta to avoid dynoing, making it much harder. But we had some fun failing on doing it, then I showed how I did the route instead which has an easier solution.

>>109060
Sauce? reverse image search gives nothing

>>109873
based cloomber

Any tall Chads in? Just mogged some manlet who is usually much better than me on a V7 slab where I could just reach through the crux. He acted nice but I could tell he was seething inside. Feels good

>>109994
Imagine thinking you're a chad when you get routinely schooled by manlets.

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Non skelly bros.... It's over

>>110011
>Tfw almost identical stats to Adam Ondra
>I look like a ghoul while he looks shredded
It's not fair bros

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>>110011
>tfw im 180cm and 70kg
ngmi...

>>110011
>177cm
>77kg
At least I will get stronger dragging all that muscle and fat up the wall

>>110011
Isn't there a BMI limit?
Should be 20 for men and 19 for women but I guess it's 18 and 17?

>>110079
17 male and 18 female

women have naturally more bodyfat. odd that janja is under the competition limit here. I wonder when this data was collected.

>>110083
That's interesting, thought men had a higher limit due to the normal BMI ranges typically being 1 higher for men.

>>110096
I double-checked and it looks like that was an article from 2014. a more recent article from 2021 says males 18.5; females 17.5.

so it seems you're correct

>>107234
Anyone here experienced low-right back pain? Seems to go away during bouldering sessions (when I climb down) and mainly affects me at night when sitting at my pc or sleeping. I'm 19 and have a good BMI and awful low body flexibility am I fucked?

>>110241
>am I fucked?
Not at this young age, you can still undo A LOT of damage before 35~40
I'd go to a doctor or do physiotherapy if the pain doesn't go away after a few days/weeks

why do i feel like there's not much more to talk about in this general

>>110474
I'm lurking for an answer to this >>109873

How do I stop pissing my pants doing slabs where I have to trust my shoes to make my feet stick to tiny indentations in the wall, do I just force myself to do them until I grow accustomed to it? I fucking hate hate hate it.

>>110593
think like any other kind of fear management/training, helps to find a less terrifying version of what you're doing lower to the ground, or on a problem with lower stakes.

like finding a foot chip closer to the ground and steadily just working out how little of your shoe+weight you can keep on it without slipping off. stuff like that

>>110593
shin pads
just kidding stop being a pussy

>>110593
Go find some friction slab boulders outside that are low to the ground. They will teach you how to stand on nothing using friction alone. Indoor "small" holds will feel like jugs.

>>110593
>other people have climbed this route
>their feet are no stickier than mine
>therefore this foot will stick
>foot sticks

doesn't really help the fear but at least it keeps me moving

>>110593
Just do it, I've had bloody knees and shins from slabs but you just have to keep going

>>110593
Just stop being a pussy mate

>>110604
>>110665
I don't care about blood, just the uncertainty of having no idea whether the nothing I'm standing on will spit off my feet without warning.

>>110474
Because this board moves slower than old people fuck and is just indoor climbers, check the general on /out/ it still moves slow but more topics than just "my fingers hurt should I still climb?"

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How well do you guys think gym climbing translates to outdoor climbing?

>>110753
it doesn't hurt. bouldering is probably easier to transition than rope climbing.

I've got a friend who climbs V10 indoors and can't even finish a V3 at the local bouldering area. I've got to think he's a bit of an exception though since he's autistic. He will just try the start moves over and over until he's completely exhausted, looking for the "right" beta which doesn't exist.

https://youtu.be/hWU9cyFPjVo
1 hour from now

would anyone happen to be going to the "top of the blocs" its a competition in carlisle uk on the 13th. im going but i dont have any friend and still want to climb with some people

>>110769
Your gym has to grade extremely soft if he can do a V10 indoors and can't do a V3 outside. It's usually like two or three grades lower than you climb indoors but not seven.

>>110856
like I said I think he was just mindbroken by the fact that there was no setter creating perfect beta. gym is definitely soft though yeah.

>>110878
What country?

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>>108492
three v8s two of which were apparently soft, lost track of v6-7s. I still take multiple days to get most v7s, so im comfy in my v5/6 range

>>110879
USA, ID. I've been to a gym in a neighboring state that was harder by ~1.5 V-grades.

>>110780
Every single time I' impressed again how hard Janja dominates.
She should climb with the guys, the other women have 0 chance to ever beat her

Beginner climber here. Is is normal for my hands to hurt after climbing? Not the top of the skin but my hand internally. I’m not doing any permanent damage am I?

>>111280
>Is is normal for my hands to hurt after climbing?
No that's really weird actually, you might have been climbing wrong because my hands have never hurt after climbing

>>111280
Your finger and hand tendons and ligaments might be unused to heavy activity and need some time to get used to it. Climb shorter sessions and gradually let your tendons adapt.

>>111294
>>111321
Thank you for the insight, I’ll make adjustments to my sessions.

>>107292
because the community is extremely efffeminate and run by women
why? because rocks are masculine and attract women
the opposite sport is surfing, the ocean is feminine and it attracts men

>>111399
Then why are ships called "she"?

>>107292
Gyms and sport climbing.

>>111400
men don’t ride men
in the case of surfboards theyre an extension of the penis which is why all hot surfer girls and the uberist of surfer chads are all longboarders
>>111401
and yeah it’s mostly gym mentality, i’ve met some cool trad dudes

>everything is about sex

>>111422
life is sex retard

good day at the crag yesterday with the main belay bro. fun climbs on easy moderates and vibes.

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> friend has been in Jew York for a week
> had a miserable time climbing without him
Muscles don't make you strong, friends do

>>111429
just marry him already faglord. better be quick anout it before clarence thomas starts dabbing on the gays.

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>>111432
You're right, I need to blow out his asshole before he proposes to his chink gf

>>111422
In the end we're all just animals.

Apart from that, holy fuck ratings in boulder gyms are useless. Ranges truly are much better.
Could easily do all 6B/6B+ in one gym, struggled with the 6As in another and managed 6C/6C+ in yet another.
When at gyms with ranges I'm always at the 'intermediate' range which often lies between 6A and 6C

I'm getting goddamn worse. I've tried two problems I could climb with some struggle about a month ago, which I can't do anymore. It's so frustrating

>>110011
One time I saw a fat woman at my local gym, not obese but definitely 300+. I didn't think much of it at first but then I saw her climbing a v6 and I thought it was pretty cool. I'm 6'1 160 lbs male and I can climb v6 when I'm fresh.

>>111492
>not obese but definitely 300+
Are you American?? Because that's fucking obese what the hell!

>>111492
>300+
>saw her climbing a v6

V0 in my gym.

>>111492
Not only is 300+ morbidly obese, that's how fat you have to be to get your TV show

>>111492
>not obese but definitely 300+
Nigguh that's a fucking mountain of lard.

>>111492
>300+
>v6
Damn, I'd climb a V25 easily in 'murica if that's the case

>>111495
>>111502
>>111509
>>111511
>>111552
I might be retarded but she was twice my size and I'm 160

God damn why are Hannah and Jessy so cute?

The climbing goddess did it again to no one's surprise