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File: 1631249876153.jpg (193 KB, 900x900)
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Previous Thread: >>9284768

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US)
>>
Copying my sperging from the old thread:

reeeeeeeeeeeeeee: extended edition
>dryfit the flight deck
>the fore and aft deck sections fit nice and snug into their slots
>the mid deck is a millimetre too long and only fits with some difficult coercion (read: jamming it in and making the whole thing creak uneasily)
>the fucking flight deck on an aircraft carrier doesn't fit properly
>the main fucking attraction
>a big flat surface
>DOESN'T FIT
God damn it Chang you had one job

I'm never buying old Trumpeter ever again. Newer ones maybe but from here onwards I aint touching chinkshit unless it's highly reviewed.
>>
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It's stuka time and I'm hard as a rock
>>
>total items: 1,093
>in stock only: 423

ahhhhh
>>
>>9300072
was it like this before the pandemic?
>>
>>9300069
>building German shit
>confederate flag
Ummmm sweatie, this is very problematic. We've got a lot to unpack here
>>
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Jeff might be done in a week, last time I completed something must have been about this time last year.
>>
>My little ancient shitplane kit is the OP
I'm touched, although the only thing I'd really want from it is to inspire some anon who is better than me at modeling to try great war subjects. At this point I would be happy to see people make a great war tank or armoured car or similar.
I will start painting the tiny T-26 when I clear my current round of work I think, unless I get the mood taking me at midnight or something.
>>
>>9300099
I have some sort of autistic fascination with biplanes but I suck at models so it'll be a while before I can get around to them.
I had to stop my Pfalz at around 70% completion because 1. I was getting bored and 2. I realized I fucked up the machine guns and will have to buy yet another photo etch kit and redo them. this isn't even taking into account the fact that I have another five or six biplane kits on top of all the other shit I have sitting on a shelf.
>>
>>9300069
>those paints

You better not be putting tempura acrylics on planes.
>>
anyone here do balsa / rc? Recently gotten back into guillos kits, having a lot of fun zoning out to podcasts and huffing glue fumes.
>>
>>9300110
I've been making models for like 3 weeks, so I have jack shit for supplies. I only use them as a back up for the paint colors that I do have so far
>>
>>9300116
Can't say I do, but I have given some thought to just making the balsa skeleton of something to hang form the ceiling of my classroom.
>>
>>9300109
You are going to make it anon, I am sure you will nail the Pfalz when you get it off the shelf of shame.
When I finish the T-26s for the group build I am unsure what I want to tackle next. I am contemplating a what if RAAF Starfighter to clear the shitty Academy kit from my stash, or actually building a modern and well put together kit like a Zvezda Yak-130 to see what I am missing out on with my shit subjects. After that, either back to WWI topics or maybe a vacform Hunting Percival Pembroke in my stash for some real masochism.
>>
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>>9300129
Guillows are a great start. They're intended for beginners to learn balsa, but literally anyone can do them and have fun. Their war birds are a lot of fun. They have models ranging in all levels of difficulty, from very simple gliders, to really complex geometry puzzles that are works of art when finished. And there's plenty of instructions online how to convert any of their models to fully functional flying rc model if you want.
>>
>>9300146
guess it depends how the T-26 kit goes. if it goes together nice and easy and you enjoy it, then torture yourself with the Starfighter. if the T-26 sucks ass, then reward yourself with the Yak-130.
>>
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>>9300170
Oh the T-26s are already together, none of the three hobby shops I go to had any T-26s in 1/72, 1/48 or 1/35 so I had to get the tiny 1/100 Zvezda kits. I am treating them as little morsels to play around with, working on detailing them as much as I can justify to myself. This is the mod.1938 one, the mod.1933 one is not modified yet but will also get a machine gun, thinned fenders and drilled out exhausts.
The only thing that will annoy me with the F-104 is the hideously inaccurate canopy. I don't look forward to having to reprofile it to vacform, although the vacform process itself should be fun as ever.
>>
>>9300150
>that pic
Ironic, considering how the B-17 was already a very modern bomber with an all-metal airframe.
>>
I'm surprised that no one took the chance to build this marvel of polish engineering for the group build, it's only 18$ for a 1/35 kit.
I'm thinking about getting it myself.
>>
>>9300212
I would but I'm acutely aware of how god-awful Mirage Hobby T-26s are. I could not find usable tracks for that even if the rest of the kit seems pretty good. For a Mirage Hobby kit.
>>
>>9300233
is there any trick to make them work properly?
>>
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>>9300237
Yes
>>
>>9300237
Well, the sprocket teeth don't fit into the holes of the vinyl tracks and the only way to get the tracks to form a loop is to staple them together.
>>
>>9300186
from what I understand, most if not all guillows kits, take their blueprints directly from the real versions, and simplify them, but the ribs and runners are placed nearly identically as to the real airplane. Also you can skin these with aluminum foil, and they look amazing.
>>
>>9300285
>Aluminium foil
Jesus Christ how terrifying
I wonder if anyone here has tried to BareMetalFoil a whole airplane.
>>
>>9300295
I've foiled a 1/72 Me262 before and plan to do a Sabre and MiG in the future. Foiling is fun.
>>
>>9300295
If you just take your time its not really that bad, just gotta be smarter than the foil.
>>
>>9300254
I see, then I'll probably use an hand drill, some putty and some mud. And I'll also paint the tracks directly on the model.
>>9300243
reported for polonophobia
>>
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Got me some figures I'd been waiting for. Don't know what I'm gonna use 'em for, except the Russkies are fpr my T-26 Smolensk diorama.
>>
>>9300309
>>
>>9300295
I've actually seen some modelers cut every pannel out of foil and make tiny rivits to pannel entire balsa airplanes exactly the way the real ones were done. The amount of realism is amazing, but apparently it takes just as long to do the model as building the real airplane. But most people just use as large of uncut sheet as possible for each surface.
>>
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>>9300048
I've actually built a kit from ICM that was the Model 1943, and all I can say is to be careful due to the very small parts from the kit, such as the hand bars for the turret and chassis and the eye hoop on top of the turret because those had a tendency to break easily.

They did add the addition to add a drivers seat inside the tank incase you wanted the drivers hatch to be open.

I was pretty young when I built this so some parts will seem wonky or broken
>>
>>9300477
For what it's worth, the best T-34 1941-1943 kits are probably Dragon's, but I'd rate the (New) Zvezda T-34 Mod. 1942 kit better than the ICM Mod. 1943. AFV Club's interior T-34 Mod. 1942/1943 probably has better details than either but you're paying extra for the interior. Tamiya's T-34 is very toyish if you compare it to the newer kits. I'm actually looking forward to Italeri releasing their T-34 Mod. 1943 based on their new T-34-85. Hopefully it will have an interior.

Also: Fucking T-34 nomenclature. I think the soviets used Mod. 1940 for the first production type, then 1941 for the single big hatch T-34, Mod. 1942 for the enlarged twin-hatch hexagonal turrets and Mod. 1943 was the first T-34-85s or maybe hexagonal turrets with commander's cupolas?
>>
>>9300069
>Wehraboo
I want to cringe but Stuka is pretty based desu.
>>
>>9300514
>based on their new T-34-85
You shouldn't be depending on how autistic you are about detail. The hull has a rough cast texture all along the sides and I can't find a single fucking example of any t-34 having this on anything but the turret irl. I was excited for the T-34-85 but I ended up selling it for that reason. If I'm gonna have to fucking sand the sides smooth and then rebuild all the detail I might as well just get a miniart or something.
>>
>>9298734
Any opinions at all?
>>
>>9300637
The trumpeter one is CLEARLY more detailed you stupid nigger
>>
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Just about there on my F1, I chose to ignore a few things about the decals on the plane I was originally building just for the sake of making something interesting. It's a real shame the kit is made with shitty raised panel lines and such but ohwell. Just got a little bit of oil painting to go and I'll take some proper photos
>>
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>>9300630
I can be pretty pedantic, but I feel like that is easily rectified by turning it into a rolled steel texture.
>>
>>9300612
>first model is German, ergo wehraboo
kinda cringe desu senpai
>>
>>9300514
I mentioned in the previous thread I'd just built the Tamiya effort and wasn't very impressed. Their Panther which is an older casting (60s Vs 80s if I remember rightly) was much better in my opinion.
>>
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This is my first ever model since I was a kid who used to cut out the decals and glue them on.
I fucked up so much.

>I put it in terps to strip a shitty paint job and damaged the plastic.
>I broke multiple parts off of it.
>I nearly destroyed the decals using airbrush thinner to thin oil paint for a wash.

But it's done and I've learnt some lessons.
>>
>>9300733
Tamiya's Panther Ausf. A is from the 60s and it's the most rancid piece of shit. Literally unbuildable.
Tamiya's Panther Ausf. G(s) are from the 90s and they still hold up as far as I'm concerned.
Need photo-etched mesh obviously, but still.
>>9300743
It doesn't look nearly as bad as that greentext would make it out to be. Looks like you can get far if you keep up with it.
>>
>>9300743
Getting it perfect is not the most important part of modeling. That just takes time and practice.

The most important aspect of modeling you should always consider; Did you have fun?
>>
>>9300743
paint jobs smooth lad.
>>
>>9300758
I did. Got frustrated at times but mainly due to my own cock ups. I nearly binned it last night when I oil washed it and the decals and varnish started to rub away but then considered how I'd been really pleased with how I'd done the cockpit and how nice it was seeing it all come together after all the work.

I already have my next model ready. A P-40B Warhark

>>9300751
Thank you. I got some good advice from here
>>9300759
Thanks anon.
>>
>>9300743
idk anon this looks leagues better than my first model so you seem to be doing things right
>>
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Anybody do goofy stuff to break out of a dry spell? I've got a kit that I was supposed to be working on since January but I think this pumpkin is bringing it back. I'm planning to add a lot of surface detail / mottling with oil paints to get some practice.

>>9300743
If it looks like this in a high res photo I'll bet it looks really good in person. Jump into the next one.
>>
man there are so many trumpeter kits of soviet artillery and anti-air missiles I'd buy if they didn't go for 100€
>>
>>9300751
>Literally unbuildable
Can you explain why please, as it was the A I was referring to. I'm new to scale so an explanation of where and how it's lacking would be good.
>>
>>9300324
>Leichttraktor
based, who by? is it any good? probably won't even get it, just curious
>>
>>9300838
well, have you seen how huge those kits are? They're massive, much larger than even a large 1/35 tank. Missiles are fucking huge
>>
anyone know of any Churchills in 35 scale with the hull 75 and 2-pdr turret? that was a Mk I, right?
>>
>>9300945
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/resicast-35127-churchill-mk-i--669736
the only existing kit of what you're looking for
>>
>>9300830

Thanks man, I'm looking forward to my next one. Flying Tigers P-40.

One thing I have had issues with that I haven't found a solution for online is painting wheels. How do you paint the rubber without going over the alloys?
>>
>>9300996
good God, that's grim.
unfortunate since it's a reasonably well-known tank, at least as far as enthusiasts/historians go. instead all the manufacturers just make the 831st Tiger kit or yet another T-34.
>>
>>9301000
>How do you paint the rubber without going over the alloys
either use aftermarket masks, or just be really careful with a brush.
I use a bit of blue tack on one side and hold it with a toothpick while rotating it and i just very slowly and gently use my brush to paint on the rubber. or, again, just use masks with an airbrush.
>>
>>9301018
There's an Hasegawa kit in 1/72 though.
Perhaps it's better than nothing?
If you usually build 1/35 scale and you don't want to put it together with the other models, you can always put it in top of your PC case.
>>
>>9301028
>72
fuck me I hate being autistic
>ships in 700
>subs in 350
>tanks in 35 or 48
>planes in 48
God fucking dammit
yeah whatever I guess I'll check it out lmao
>>
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nice photoetch HORRORBOSS. neither end touches the engine deck, way too short. not sure if it's gonna be a 'fuck it, glue it' yet, but its a firm maybe. Also none of you mongos called me out for gluing the exhaust pipe facing forward. Sawed it off and glued it in roughly the right position
>>
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also, my little splurge hnnnnnng came in the mail today. Smaller than I expected. may make for a nice winter project. gotta class my living room up with some bote models
>>
>>9300838
They're fucking huge. Also you can get them cheap on eBay if you keep an eye out. Ive seen them as low as 80$ with shipping. I got a S300V last week for 100$ shipped.

There's also a ton in 1/72 from modelcollect, and hobbyboss is coming out with some too along with zvezda.
>>
>>9301319
>I got a S300V last week
you better post that build son. I've done a uragan and scarab, with a smerch in the stash, but basically everyone of those fuckhuge monsters is on my wishlist.
>>
>>9301285
>350 scale
terrifying desu, good luck
>>
>gonna have to hand paint all the gray bits on the deck of Rodney
fucking hell
how do you shipanons cope? I love ships, and have a lot in the backlog, but this is my first one. aside from autistically masking the entire deck by hand (or using some premade one) how do you guys cope?
>>
>>9301584
>he thinks hand painting one of the easiest colors to paint smoothly is hard
Try building a modern Russian ship where you have to hand paint every single red fucking deck.
>>
>>9301329
>scarab
Based, SA-8 Gecko is on my wishlist.

But I will build it right after I finish my Meng Smerch.
>>
>>9301654
good thing I prefer pre-1945 ships then lmao
>>
Posted in wrong thread so trying again
>lvkv90(c)
>kit includes rearview mirror but it's not in the instructions, which finishes the kit with 2 holes where the mirrors can be mounted
Is this intentional? Do they only stick the mirrors on when traveling?
>>
>>9301732
The kit I'm working on had one of the pieces reversed in the manual, where there was 1 longer leg on a piece and 1 shorter one and it had flipped them.
Manuals are not more accurate than your own knowledge and common sense. Following manuals to the letter is one way you can end up with janky-ass builds.
>>
>>9301732
What company is it from? Might just be an error in the instructions. For most tanks in combat the mirrors would be folded.
>>
>>9301779
>>9301754
It's a HobbyBoss kit, but it's a 2020 variant of a 2012 tool so I'd expect it to be at least pretty decent.
Most pictures of the lvkv90 depict it without the mirrors, with only the round cutout in the (presumably) applique armor. What I'm unsure about is whether the exists a smaller, secondary hole inside that cutout that may be used to slot the mirror into, or if that's just a model kit thing that I should cover up with the mirror.
>>
What was the airplane that had whistles mounted under the wings to terrify the enemy when doing bombing and strafing runs?
>>
>>9301860
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2o7dkC8XWJ4
they came as a kit when the planes were delivered to their units, and had to be assembled and installed by the air and ground crews. they actually hated doing it because it was complex and difficult, and tended not to have an effect after the first few years of the war, and so they stopped using them.
>>
>>9301517
Dreadnought and cruisers are a decent size in 1/350, it's the WW2 battleships that get massive
>>
>>9301865
>>
>>9301517
>>9301866
yeah, people forget that the pre-WWII battleships are all around 600 feet in length. In WWII the length went up to 800ft or more. They're still really wide and bulky though.
>>
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>>9301866
>>9301877
>WW2 battleships are massive
>forgets about carriers
haha you are of baby

Of course, I kneel before the true size chads of 1/350: people who build modern US carrier kits.
>>
>>9300116
botes, yes
>>
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What need to be done to get this kind of look/texture?
>>
>>9300848
The Tamiya Panther Ausf. A is badly dimensioned, badly detailed and an utter waste of money. It's missing one row of roadwheels, the sponsons are open at the bottom, the lower hull has no detail on account of it being a motorized toy originally and the vinyl tracks have very poor detail.
>>9300933
ICM's, it's okay to build, I got photo-etched fenders for it because the plastic ones lack detail.
>>9300945
There's a 1/35 scale conversion kit for the AFV club Churchill Mk. III. I've been wanting to get one myself. Company was called IMACO if I remember right.
>>9301279
Is that the 36/37 kit? Only the rear end is supposed to touch the vehicle and the front should be supported by a piece of copper wire.
>>
>>9301933
You could try dabbing blackwash with a paper towel or a sponge. Use some spare parts, or a plastic bottle to practice on, play around with your paints to see what effects you can figure out.
>>
>>9301584
My primary hobby is painting 25-28mm figures, and at this point I've painted some 3000 eyes. Bollards and bitts are pretty easy after all that, especially since there's no need to make sure they point the same direction. Get a brush with a nice tip, say maybe a size 0 or even 2/0, thin your paint at least 50/50 and make sure to pull it across some paper towel to drain the excess. This should give you a damp brush with a fair amount of workable paint so just take your time, follow the contours, and the brush will do most of the work.
>>
How long should I let lacquer gloss varnish to dry before pin washing with enamels?
>>
>>9302106
Overnight just to be sure
>>
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>>9302045
Thanks for the concise explanation
>>
>>9302110
Thanks
>>
>>9301584
Just spend 3 hours masking off all the tan deck and then blast it with grey paint
>>
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>>9300061
>it's another episode of "Chang believes accurate dimensional measurements are a luxury afforded only to capitalist running dogs and their lackeys"
Fucking chabuduo bullshit yet again. I've still been trying to get this to fit thinking I was doing something wrong but it genuinely doesn't fit together.

If I fit the bow and stern decks properly, the mid deck doesn't fucking fit. Time to start sanding the shit out of the bottom of the mid deck rather than, y'know, fucking assembling and painting it.
>>
>>9301933
I guess distressing using chipping fluid, in this case with 3 layers, but I'm not 100% sure.
Video reference:
https://youtu.be/YQZnDLR09ac
(7:55)
Maybe some speckling too
>>
>>9301584
Buy aftermarket masks, or grab a hairy stick and zen out.
>>
yo boys help me decide
2s7
or
2a3
>>
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>>9302144
Hahaha I beat you Chang and your shitty measurements. And all I had to do was spend most of my precious Saturday evening meticulously sanding everything down until it actually fit.

These decks were originally part of their USS Essex CV-9 kit. I can only assume there were some subtle differences between the two kits that makes the deck an awkward/impossible fit on the Yorktown.
>>
>>9302228
They're both short hulls, uneven shrinkage between such a large, thin piece and the less so hull pieces seems more likely.
>>
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>>9302236
I think we're both right. There probably is some shrinkage but at the same time some of the slotting is clearly incompatible, pic related. The corners on the deck piece were far too sharp to fit inside the rounded corners of the structure.

>I can't be the only one who likes writing dumb shit inside their models
>>
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Would a turboprop transport like this be to big in 1:72?
>>
>>9302284
How are we supposed to know what's too big for you? Go look up how big the real thing is on wikipedia, divide by 72, and make up your own fucking mind.
>>
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>>9302286
Watch your profanity
>>
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I put together the stuka. The kit wasn't too bad, but it has some problems. The glass isn't glued yet.
>>
>>9302500
I thought the Stuka was a German plane not Australian
>>
>>9302286
Take a nap, dad.
>>
>>9302284
1/72 scale is the smallest sensible scale.
>>9302116
I would have really wanted to wrote a whole article about why that kit is wrong, but I am not proficient enough in English. Finescaler modeler apparently had an article about updating the kit. Just please, please be aware that the Panther Ausf. A kit from tamiya is a piece of shit, absolutely unsalvageable.
>>
>>9302500
To be entirely honest, many of the parts seem less to have been assembled together and more like they've simply been placed in each other's general vicinity. The front of the wings, the front of the gun pods, the front of the left (right in the photo as it currently sits) landing gear...
>>
>>9302500
Dunno if you're an experienced modeler just showing the kit but just in case you're new:
You gotta sand down those sprue gates and either cement or fill those seams, they're still going to be very even after you paint them.
>>
>>9302595
yeah he said he's new I think, his first kit
if you don't have access to sanding paper atm, try using your hobby knife. it's a pretty good tool (and a workaround if you need one) so long as youre careful and take your time.
be careful though because I've cut open my thumb by rushing/impatience idk how many times, and bled quite a bit. if that happens make sure you wash with soap immediately, dont wanna get fucking tetanus
>>
>>9302644
Those are what's left of larger nubs. Every time I try to exacto small pieces they go flying in random directions at extreme velocity
Also this is not my first model, my first plane. I've made 3 kits but they're ground stuff
>>
Does anyone know if a model of the pond racer exists? I'm only finding 3d models of it when googling.
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>>9302685
Reference pic for anyone whose never seen it. A purpose built racing airplane, that actually inspired the pod racers.
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>>9302664
Are you using a proper hobby knife or are you literally using an exacto blade? They should be coming off like butter effortlessly, if they're not your knife is probably too dull.
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>>9302664
Use a file, sand paper, a sanding sponge or literally anything like that to get rid of those.

Using a knife, even a really good one, is a bad idea when you get down to the last half millimeter or so because even with years of experience you will eventually cut a lump off of a model and have to refill it.
>>
>>9302709
Thank you anon, a file is actually a good idea. I'll use that on builds from now on
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>>9302709
yeah I forgot to mention, dont use the blade once you get down close to the model, only use it to clean up the rough edges and get to the point where sanding/filing is better
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Wheels wheels wheels... One defected to the carpet monster and was replaced with plasticard. There seems to be quite some stress in the plastic between the leaf springs and the nub at the end of them, three of eight snapped off when I cut them from the sprue despite being bloody careful after the first one. Other UM T-26 guy here be warned. The overall warpage continues with the main top-of-the-hull plate, hopefully there will be enough contact point between it and the rets that I can just force it into position and shape.
>>
>applying 1/700 photoetch railings
how the fuck am I to do it without scratching off the paint with whatever tweezers I'm using? my fingers aren't really fat (I have small hands for a guy (inb4)) but it's still not really precise enough imo.
>>
>>9303143
Plastic tweezers might be an idea. As is/was using a good primer. That said, just resign yourself to some touch-up afterwards, you jxmwmwill need it.
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>>9303143
Have you tried Tamiya's metal primer? I've heard (from Nighstshift) that it works wonders.
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>>9301659
Built it a couple years ago, so it's not my best work. Do love the front end of these trucks, they look mean.

>>9302045
It's the OT-130, so not sure which one it's based off of. Thanks for the heads up, will hunt for reference pics now

>>9302221
KONDENSATOR. Don't think I've seen a build of that one yet, but I do remember hearing something about missing wiring detail.
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For £15 this kit seems really good. What's the difference between this stuff and the kits that cost a fortune?
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>>9303452
Part count, size, detail, snobbish companies who insist their kits are worth more, ect. Prices are all over the place.
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>>9303452
Recent Airfix kits certainly aren't bad, but compared to, say, a non-ancient Tamiya they tend to be a bit behind in amount of detail, the moulding aren't as crisp, panel lines in particular are often rather on the Verdun side of things, sprue attachment points can be rather chonky in some cases and the fit is likewise more of a gamble. Both my Gnat and harrier needed their fare share of violence to go together. (Not that all of the price is down to such things, depending on where in the world you are can shift price tags around quite a bit as well for example. Also, even though Airfix do work hard on being inexpensive £15 seems really cheap for that kit, Hannants has it on slightly-sale for just under 20 and ModelHobbies wants another four quid on top of that.)
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>>9303495
More parts = higher cost?
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>>9303511
I've found some decent deals on ebay and this was one that I picked up. I also got an Eduard Weekend Messerschmitt BF109G for £15 and that thing has millions of parts.
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>>9303515
Sometimes, it's more so the detail of said parts. Injection molds are among the most expensive chunks of metal that will come out of a CNC machine. Extra detail = extra machining = extra money.
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>>9303452
tl;dr airfix tend to produce very popular models that sell well and knows how to market themselves to adults and kids alike

The tool for a sprue of a kit like your P40 there will cost about 7000 euros depending on where you have it made. Let's say 3 sprues so about 20000 euros give or take just for the tooling.

That's the big part of production cost - after that, you can make about 100k sprues out of the tool. Let's assume a margin of 50% on the final price, so £7.5 or about 9 euro left for production cost. Packaging is gonna be extremely cheap and printing a manual is neglible, but decals will cost maybe .50 eur. So let's say about 7 euro of the cost is the sprues.

At 7 euro, with a 20000 euro tool cost, you need to sell about 3000 kits to break even. That doesn't seem like too tall of an order for a P40, but we want to make some money as well so it has to be more that really gets sold. Over the run of the tool lifetime it'll be a LOT more. Your kits tool was from 2016 (https://www.scalemates.com/kits/airfix-a05130-curtiss-p-40b-warhawk--963675) so it has probably passed that number already.

Now imagine you are making something far more niche that only enthusiasts like us in this thread or the odd accidental present purchase. Imagine you're making far more sprues for your kit because you have a greater part count and more detail. Imagine you want photo etched parts. Imagine you want a fancier box than the simple one airfix uses. Now add in that some kits require licensing. You'll see many modern jets have licenses on the box from the producer of the plane (https://www.scalemates.com/kits/italeri-2506-f-35a-lightning-ii--978109 for an example of this) - that license is probably a considerable percentage of the price like 25% and that'll cause a massive markup. There's also stuff like game-tie ins or movie-tie ins with licensing cost.
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>Drive to Alabama for a show
>spend $300 on old Hasegawa kits
Anyway here's a Millennium Falcon in 1/43
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>>9303515
I bought a Trumpeter Hood kit in 1/700 that cost about $30 and it has something like 350 parts
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>>9303511
Airfix are at least trying to sort themselves out now. They are slowly working their way through making things people actually want (Vulcan, Mosquito) and taking some things out of production and swapping them out. There are new 1/72 Harriers and Tempests coming out soon for example. Now at the same time I accept they are selling "classic kits" for no adequately explicable reason outside the nostalgia market but I suppose it is quite hard to just delete your entire product line and start again.
>>
>>9303695
might go to my first model/wargaming convention in november, I'm excited to see supremely good and autistic things like this and feel utterly crushed that I'll never get that good.
though hey, if I finish Rodney in time maybe I'll submit it or something. I just... really need to get out of this funk and start working on the gray deck bits, painting and assembling the railings, and generally touching things up.
>>
>>9303884
I was talking about their stuff from nowadays (so the Harrier being their 2011 Gr.7/9 tooling for example), not the paleolothic dogshit side of their catalogue.
Also, are you sure about the new 1/72 Harrier? because Britmodeller ain't talking about it that I've noticed and they usually can't stop raving about anything and everything Airfix has announced.
>>
do most of you guys even have a local hobby shop anymore?

I have 1 local shop that is alright, they sell plenty of kits but they're still a small operation run by 2 soft spoken old guys that aren't getting any younger, they probably won't exist anymore within a decade and then I'll have no hobby shops worth a dime within hundreds of miles of me.

It's just different, going into a shop and browsing the kits, looking at the boxart, etc. it's a magical thing that you cannot replicate online and I don't want it to die out forever.
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>>9303599
i don't think injection molding tooling is that expensive anymore, right? There's way too many small companies doing injection molding now that the cost must have come down considerably, since modern CNC machines are doing amazing things much cheaper than in the past. Sure, 20 years ago or more it would have been very expensive, but making molds for the model now has to be a bit cheaper. You can probably outsource the entire process to a Chinese company who will make the molds for you and then make the plastic parts I bet.
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>>9304051
I had one in my town, but by the time I'd actually learned of it existing it had already shut down.
>>
>>9304051
surely there will always be a few because some boomers will have shown their children the joys of the hobby, and at least one will have taken up the torch by taking over the family business when it's time
thankfully there in my "area" on Long Island, my preferred one (for equipment etc. and also proximity) is owned by a very nice older guy, upper 70s. I walked in today for the first time in nearly 2 months and he had his arm in a sling, fell from a ladder or something. I don't think he has kids so the store will probably be gone ones he goes. only other store that's within reasonable distance for me (nearly an hour's drive) is owned by a slightly younger guy (60s at most) and is just fucking filled to the brim with kits. but I've only been a few times so idk if he has any sons working alongside him or something.
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>>9304168
thankfully there are two*
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>>9304051
There used to be quite a few, to the extent I'd stumble upon them in the early 10's when working as a supply teacher.

They were always really small shops though and I haven't seen any in years now. Hobbycraft can fuck off.
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>>9304168
Men at Arms? Been there once has to be over 5 years ago now, think I bought Sherman kit. Not a single other customer the entire time I was there, no other cars in parking lot. Heard the guy worked an M79 in Vietnam
>>
It sounds really stupid, but I can't believe I never considered using stretched sprue as a gap filler until now. For small gaps and whatnot putty is just a fucking mess and I didn't realize that because it's all styrene you can just fill gaps with... styreme, either from the sprue or evergreen styrene rods and just glue them in place then sand it or run a knife over it. So much easier than putty too because it actually cements itself to the plastic.
>>
>>9304463
>Men at Arms
yeah. sometimes I'm there for 45 minutes and I'm the only one, other times there are 4 or 5 other boomers browsing and picking up a bunch of equipment and some kits. I think he makes enough business, just stays next to that weed shop because it's cheap.
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>>9304519
forgot to say
>worked an M79 in Vietnam
that's pretty funny, you'd never expect that from him. I'm probably the youngest regular customer he gets so I like to try and just buy shit while I can when I visit.
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>>9304051
>>9304072
>>9304168
>>9304323
>>9304519
Sounds grim in burgerstan. My mid-size Australian city has a few decent stores around, with my local being part of a two store 'chain'. The age-range of the customer base has a decent wide spread, with very few oldsters and whenever I go there are nearly always several customers buying things.
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>>9304665
Also they have a bunch of slot car tracks out back. Bring your own car and for au$5 you can race all day long.
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>>9300048
Very nice Eindecker, but red pill me on the roundels. Are they implying a captured status? A quick Google search doesn't show that pattern.
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>>9304860
it's a Morane-Saulnier.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Morane-Saulnier_N
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>>9304860
This anon already answered >>9304862 but yeah, it is actually a French monoplane in Russian service. It is of note as being one of the earlier "firing through the arc" solutions, as it had steel plates fitted to the propeller to deflect bullets that hit it (with middling success).
I have an eindecker as well, but the rigging is very poor and has sagged over the years. I might still take a photo of the two together, as it shows how tiny the Morane-Saulnier truly is.
>>
>no abrams kit with both TUSK and trophy
>actually no 1/35 abrams with trophy
How long am I going to have to wait or should I just fire up my 3d printer
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>>9304913
depends on how long your printer takes to warm up
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>>9304914
Well I still need a 3d model, so that's a no-go too.
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>>9304921
could probably use brawl from transformers the movie the game, since it was an abrams with some scifi stuff stuck to it.
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>>9304960
But anon that's not what I want.
I believe it's called the M1A2C. It has slightly increased turret length, frontal applique armor, HK APS, an entirely new version of CROWS, sideskirt ERA and has existed for at least a few years now.
Kind of hard to believe companies would just leave the latest generation of the Abrams for that long (especially when it's finally one that's visually different from the rest) when they were rolling out Armatas within a year. Though I could say the same with a lot of other vehicles that's not the Tiger 1.
>>
>>9304051
The owner of mine died in February so I'm stuck entirely with online shops and the odd r/c hobby store that will have the tools and paint but never any kits :(

>>9304068
It is that expensive. The numbers I put come from experience in my job where one of the things I do is make business case arguments for going from 3D print/CNC to injection molding and designing the parts for it. It's not model kits, but the components are surprisingly comparable. Generally model kit tooling will be
on the cheaper side for one big reason: You need very little cavity in your tooling compared to eg. a plastic box, but because of the tolerance demand from model builders and the variety of tiny details, the tool cost goes up exponentially.

The prices ARE from China already. It genuine isn't much cheaper to do it in China than it is to do it in Europe, but once the tool is in a machine, Chinese labor is much cheaper than European so that's where you can save some money. And let me tell you all the bullshit you deal with when working with Chinese makes the whole process suck balls so much. I fucking hate China.

Consider that a tool for injection molding is a HUGE lump of metal. Even a small part tool is many times larger than what it makes, and it needs cooling channels and mounting points machined in regardless of how little your components are.

Where you can save some money is that instead of making a proper steel tool, you can choose an aluminium one that will last a lot less shots (depends on the parts, I'll estimate 30k shots for model kit size shots), but will take off maybe 1/3 the production cost. You can also have a plastic 3D printed tool made, but that will make even fewer kits (maybe 500 shots if you're lucky). And finally, the real budget option is metal coated expanded polystyrene which you can use for prototype shots, but 10 is the maximum.
>>
Anyone have experience with the resinscales M103?
Yeah, it is a 3d-printed world of tanks model, but the only other 35 scale M103 is the absolutely horrendous Dragon kit. How good is Wargaming's M103 model?
>>
>>9305005
>Where you can save some money is that instead of making a proper steel tool, you can choose an aluminium one that will last a lot less shots (depends on the parts, I'll estimate 30k shots for model kit size shots), but will take off maybe 1/3 the production cost. You can also have a plastic 3D printed tool made, but that will make even fewer kits (maybe 500 shots if you're lucky). And finally, the real budget option is metal coated expanded polystyrene which you can use for prototype shots, but 10 is the maximum.
Can these molds be used with the same injection molding machines or are they more like gravity-fed castings? Hardened Aluminum sounds like it would work just like the steel molds, but I'm having a hard time picturing 3D print plastic or EPS functioning with the same cooling/heating channels.
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>>9305105
They work just like normal tools, they just get damaged extremely quickly. The SLS 3D printed tools are actually a technology to watch because I think that will be a real game changer within the next few years for things with very low volume but requirement for molded quality. I haven't personally bought a EPS tool yet but I have seen parts made in one and they look just fine to me.
>>
>>9305136
>They work just like normal tools
I suppose they could compensate for the less thermal conductive molds by extending the dwelling and cooling times.

>The SLS 3D printed tools are actually a technology to watch because I think that will be a real game changer within the next few years for things with very low volume but requirement for molded quality.
That would be a interesting niche to fill. It's usually 10k++ units or nothing for injection molded products
>>
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>>9304860
Took the Eindecker down from the shelf to photograph a comparison, you can see how tiny the Morane-Saulnier really is here.
I will probably do a new Eindecker sometime in the future, really nto happy with how the rigging on this one has aged, and feel that I can do a lot more in painting to bring out some realism.
>>
>>9303959
I am but its not as imminent as I implied (Winter 2022, 40th anniversary of the Falklands war?)
https://uk.airfix.com/products/bae-sea-harrier-frs1-172-a04051a
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I tried the oil paint dots filter for the first time. The result doesn't look bad, it makes the model (1/100) look less toy-ish. So far I've only done the hull, not the turret.
However, I don't see the point of the vertical streaks, since they get completely nullified when you blend the paints together at the end of the process with a soft brush.
Did I overdo the blending?
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Decided to call it a day on the Mirage F1 and get on with my T-26 kit now. Looks pretty solid imo even if the decals are a little bit to high-visibility for the paint scheme, but it'll do. I wish I had built this on a better kit because I quite like the paint scheme, so maybe sometime later I'll do this again.
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>>9305261
- no chipping
- no oil leaks
- no dust on the wheels
- no shading between the panels
- barely any pin wash
- decals too clean
4/10
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>>9305297
It's a jet fighter, it's not a tank retard. If you actually looked at the model you'd also realize the model has shitty raised panel lines so pinwashing and the like doesn't matter because it gets rubbed straight off again
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>>9305261
Lovely Mirage anon. I would have probably put it through a dot filter but iirc the Hasegawa kit has raised panel lines and that can fuck things up. I think it looks good anon, although in future I would give the exhaust some more attention than you did.
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>>9305202
So just a reboxing of their 2010 one, that explains why people aren't all that worked up.
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>>9305302
I suspect he was speaking in jest, Anon. It's nice to see a clean vehicle for once, too many modellers rely on weathering to make a scale vehicle look 'real'. If anything it's sometimes more of a challenge to make a realistic-looking clean vehicle without using the crutch of weathering.
>>
>>9305261
Tan's rather dark and green in this lighting IMO, perhaps the black is shining through a bit much, but overall ok.

>>9305302
We have some guy who complains about weathering all the time, mostly whenever someone posts photos of the real stuff, I'm guessing it's him again there.
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>>9305349
Tbh the tan is slightly green (and wrong) and those photos are a very close to real color representation. I had to mix the color myself so I think there was some green pigment in one of the yellows I used to make the blend.

>>9305310
I agree on the engine, I would have spent more time if I didn't get tired of the raised panel lines and the inevitable sub-par result. It would really benefit from an aftermarket exhaust like this one https://www.super-hobby.com/products/Mirage-F.1-exhaust-nozzle-for-Special-Hobby-Kit.html because there's literally nothing inside the kit. Especially the in-molded open gear bay doors for the nosewheel are atrociously bad
>>
>>9304665
Australia is prwtty lucky in this regard in general, in Perth there's 2 stores within 15 minutes of me and another 2 half an hour away, not to mention the chain stores like games world that also sell model kits
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>>9305376
>so I think there was some green pigment in one of the yellows I used to make the blend.
In addition to that black and yellow can go kinda green, the classic olive drab mix is just yellow ochre and black.
>>
>>9305479
The thing that gets me is how all the american posters say that most of the small customer base seem to be above retirement age, yet I rarely see old folks in the stores here. What's the deal with the modeling scene in the US, is it a dying hobby frequented almost purely by boomers? Or is it still a healthy and loved hobby but all the younger generation have moved to purchasing exclusively online?
>>
>tamiya putty
how long should I let this crap cure before I try sanding it? I've had it sitting for 24 hours but it still seems kind of soft and keeps gunking up my sandpaper and files
>>
>>9304665
>>9304072
I'm in the UK. All of the model shops have pretty much disappeared. There's a few gigantic online retailers and if you're not one of those you really can't compete. I just looked and we have one that's like 90% RC focused.
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>>9305547
Something's definitely fucky because my grey putty is usually done curing within half a day, white a few minutes. Granted it's usually very thin layers but a day should definitely be more than enough.

>>9304665
I don't think a single shop like this exists in Taiwan where I live. The few model stores are very small, ultra cramped, floor-to-ceiling boxes of mostly gunpla.
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>>9305529
I dunno, from everything I see in person it tends to be older folks, while the younger guys my age do wargaming stuff and specifically Warhammer. I'm gonna visit my first convention November though so I'll report back on the demographics.
also to be fair I think most guys here are in the 20s and 30s, though we do have a smattering of people from all across the world. at least one Aussieanon, one guy from Taiwan (though maybe not Chinese), several bongs, a few guys from throughout Europe, etc
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>>9305560
>Taiwan
Pretty brave of you
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>>9304520
The Vietnam thing is some thing I heard as a kid from a buddy of mine that was into 40k stuff, so I could be very wrong. May have to stop in there next time I'm on the island, already have too many kits though.

Anyway, OT-130 build is done except for the tracks. Milling out a jig right now, so we'll see how that goes
>>
I think you guys might be able to help-I fucked up a rattle can application of enamel paint and need to strip it. Ive seen a few different ways online such as oven cleaner to strip it, but what would you guys suggest?
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>>9305717
Try bathing it in acetone, should separate the enamel and the model in no time.
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>>9305721
Mhmmmm
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>>9305742
The enamel and the model will be separated. I'm technically correct, the best kind of correct.
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>>9305747
I guess your not wrong, fuckin bureaucrat. Probally a rank 11 huh
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>>9305747
No, the enamel is unlikely to survive the acetone either, so instead of separation you're going to get a state of greater mixture. Entropy will not not denied.
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>>9305790
I imagine if you let it settle for 72 hours, you'll eventually end up with a layered liquid solution. One layer containing your model, the other layer containing your enamel. The enamel and the model will be separated.
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>>9305721
Fuck off, the last thing this general needs is trolling.
>>9305717
Drown it in alcohol (90° or something) and leave it there for a day. The model will not suffer any damage and the paint will become very easy to strip with a toothbrush. I say probably because I know this works wonders for acrylics, but I have no idea if it works with enamels too. But there's no harm in trying, except wasted alcohol.
>>
>>9305808
>tells me off for trolling
>suggests stripping ENAMEL paint with alcohol
I can't tell who's trolling who anymore. I want a gullible idiot to melt their model and learn a lesson, you apparently want them sat there bored out of their mind watching nothing happen.
>>
>>9305717
whatever you do do NOT do this>>9305721
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>>9305912
Ha yea appreciate the heads up but i know they were just fucking with me thankfully. Well shit anons, could I get some actual advice? Il try this>>9305808 on a test part, but other anon said it wont work>>9305821 thats why im looking for actual advice. What would you suggest?
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>>9300150
Googling these led me into a rabbit hole. I had no idea that there was a huge community, and competitions for rubber band powered airplanes. I never expected to find this. Neat. Might have to buy a couple of kits to try.
>>
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track jig looks promising. couldn't do my original idea as i didnt have an endmill small enough. lets see how this goes
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>>9305926
if you want to go the super safe rought, sand it by hand with high grit paper, or fingernail files you can buy either from any craft store.
>>
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Tiny OT-130 built as well, with the tracks in this case. A load of fiddly bits with very floppy connection to line up for the running gear, and I then put stone on burden by dropping the whole thing and smashing things about a bit, so that's quite the mess in my case (>>9305700
certainly ended up in better shape). Right side's far worse off than the left at least, and I should probably be just be happy that I managed to get the tracks on largely straight without the road wheel bogies being crushed, ripped off and/or otherwise destroyed in the process.

As for the tank it's larger than I expected, my brain probably had it around the height of a Pz.38 due to the relatively big turret but as it turns out it's more similar in length instead, slightly longer even.
>>
>>9304051
I live in a pretty major city in Norway and we only have one store. The guy works there started just selling stamps but he now sells anything hobby related. Model kit selection is a bit meh...
>>
>>9302284
It is quite big (Sorta 50x50cm) but the problem is that Amodel is utter crap, almost impossible to build without blood, sweat, tears and ruined anus.

Been there, done that. 1:72 An-26 to be more precise.
>>
>>9306413
its a jig so he can assemble the tracks without them getting all over the place. read nigga
>>
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Made a wee seatbelt for the P40b. No idea how people make sure hem so neat in the videos but I'm happy enough.

Any advice for protecting the cockpit when painting the main body? Mask up the canopy and put it over it?
>>
>>9306437
>Mask up the canopy and put it over it?
That's what I do. Some leave it off and cram the opening full of sponge, paper or whatever to mask it instead. Possibly with some actual masking tape involved here and there.
>>
>>9306445
>>9306437
yeah if you want the cockpit closed in the final model then just mask it, glue it on, sand away imperfections, then start painting.
I've used cotton balls when doing biplanes and it worked just as well, just make sure it's nice and snug in there.
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>>9306445
I've seen people cram stuff in there but I'm worried about damaging the flight sticks. I'd like an open canopy though.
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>>9306413
call me butter, cuz im on a roll
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>>9306466
I've used cotton balls>>9306449 and never had an issue with the flight sticks. I mean, just be careful I suppose, but cotton balls are... well, cotton, so they won't do much damage, if any
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>>9306497
Good point. I'll try that then. Didn't want to spend time making an effort on the cockpit to cover it up.
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>>9306489
Looks great. What's that hole at the front?
>>
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>>9300285
what would one use to skin a WWI plane?
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>>9306524
planning on leaving one end unglued. unbolt the jig halves, take off tracks, place sprocket and idler into tracks, then hopefully my measurements are correct and I can finagle it all in place.
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>>9306526
I'm dumb. It's the stand it's on.
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>>9306537
the guillows kits come with tissue paper which you're supposed to coat with dope to give it that authentic canvas look
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>>9306537
this kit is like 30$, pretty good real in my opinion
>>
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>>9306566
>>
>>9306561
that sounds like pure hell I love it
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>>9306570
not anymore
https://www.guillow.com/200series.aspx
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>>9306572
Its not too bad with a little practice
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=obTE6lYY11w
>>
>>9306437
You should apply some scratches, especially on the seat
Video reference:
https://youtu.be/q1g0-xkO1O0
>>
someone tell me to stop being a lazy piece of shit and start finishing up the painting on my fucking battleship
>>
>>9306975
Go to home depot, buy a large bucket of battle ship grey, and dunk the whole thing in the bucket, shake it a round a bit to really work the paint in, then throw the boat into your back yard to get that detail into it by collecting as much dirt and grass as you can, then when its all dried out, take it to the next modeling convention, and enter it into the judging contest.
>>
>>9306975
eh, on second thought I'll just do it tomorrow. shouldn't force it. I'm gonna watch a movie instead.
>>9306996
kek
>>
>>9305560
Honestly, that's strange to me because there's a few companies making kits in Taiwan, and scale models as a hobby seem far more popular in Asia than in the US.
>>
>>9305560
hobby shops like that image are very much a western market, closest you'd find a place like that is australia, or maybe japan, but japanese hobby shops tend to hyper focus into one specific hobby. One place for slot cars, one place for models, one place for gundam, ect.
>>
How do you guys spray/airbrush if you live in an apartment? Do neighbors get upset at your air compressor?
>>
>>9307229
go outside and use the compressor in the parking lot, or set your booth right next to an open window
>>
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>>9307229
Check noise ordnances in your area and check your tenancy agreement. As long as you're not outside of legally defined quiet times (usually starting anywhere from 7pm to 10pm depending on jurisdiction) and as long as the noise isn't excessive to the point it could be considered disruptive (i.e. you're not running the compressor for hours at a time) then who gives a fuck, you're fully within your rights to do what you want.

Just make sure you keep things well ventilated so that you don't gas yourself or give the neighbours a reason to complain about unpleasant smells.
>>
>>9307229
The one thing I have done for sound mitigation is for my own sake, and that's putting my compressor on a vibration damper mat so it doesn't shake my work desk.

In my previous flat my neighbor was a bitchy single mom who complained literally every time I was working. Then again she complained literally no matter what I was doing there from cooking to any sort of music to the sound of me using the bathroom so I just stopped giving a fuck. In my current one the soundproofing is so good that noone notices.
>>
>>9307229
if you're running it indoors there's no way they will hear it honestly. I run mine indoors and it's loud as FUCK and yet outside of my room with the door shut you can barely hear it.
>>
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Should I build it as intended or do some silly conversion?
For conversions I was thinking
-Soviet war price
-AA conversion
-CV cruiser
-Light battlecruiser
>>
>>9307603
kit bash it into a space ship
>>
>>9307229
Airbrushing/spraying is not very loud especially if you get one of those compressors that has an air tank
>>
>>9306911
Oooo thanks. I'll give it a go.
>>
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Damn, Eduard have some fantastic (albeit slow) customer service

>messaged their support team 10 days ago about the instructions for their Yorktown CV-10 railings kit not labeling a part correctly, pic related
>forgot about it until today when I get a response
>I am sorry for the delay, the case was forwarded to our construction office to check this. They have found out that there are two mistakes in the set. One 21 staircase and one 77 staircase less on the fret.
>My colleagues will produce an additional fret. Please, let me know the postal address, we will ship the additional fret as soon as ready.
>it took them 10 days to respond because they reviewed the entire kit for me and found that some parts are actually missing entirely
God bless those czechs

Makes me wonder how few of these things they sell though if these mistakes hadn't been noticed before
>>
>>9307603
Why don't you do the sinking of the Pola. Magazine explosion would be a cool diorama
>>
>>9307684
The air tank helps a bit by not having it run all the time, but a lot of the difference is simply in how loud the bloody thing is when running. Some get a garage compressor from Harbor Freight that'll scream along at 85dB and somehow find that survivable, I think my 52dB one is a bit much. Sure, that garage one can go for a long time with a full tank without turning on, but sooner or later the refill will have to happen.
>>
>>9307826
they make a shitload of money with their plane kits so they're probably willing to take a minor hit by doing this if it means keeping customer satisfaction high. which is nice, because not many companies are like that nowadays.
>>
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>>9308291
Yeah, any company that will go to this much effort for a 15+ year old kit that probably barely sells is definitely a keeper in my book, they've secured my loyalty.

Anyway, onwards with masking. Only the sadistic and insane would go to the effort of doing a dazzle pattern on a 1/350 capital ship.
>>
>>9308406
Bloody hell. That looks like it'll take months.
How much was it?
>>
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It's green.

>>9308406
I have been toying with the idea of building BB-14 in her dazzle camo, but so far relative sanity has prevailed and I've left the more severe masking jobs for Swedish splinter jobs.
>>
>>9308430
au$180. It's the Trumpeter USS Yorktown CV-10.

The Eduard upgrade kit was an additional au$140 from BNA Models, which was a big saving compared to anywhere else where it typically cost as much as the kit itself if not more.
>>
>>9307603
I would avoid that kit like the plague, it has not aged well and trumpeter / hobby boss have a newer Zara-class cruiser series of kits, they already put out a Gorizia and Fiume too.

They will probably do a Pola eventually, it's the only one they haven't done yet and it's similar enough to all the other ships in its class.
>>
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I've started work on this Ho Ri, I usually don't do tanks but I did some stuff to the fenders, completely redid armor texture which I am aware is a bit overdone but this thing wasn't real so I don't care too much. Also added some shell damage.
>>
>>9308975
I want to get into FineMolds japanese tanks, but the single piece tracks will be the end of me
>>
>>9308975
On one hand that armour texture is WAY overdone but on the other hand, I guess you won't learn unless you try.
>>9309238
It's fine if you just get something to watch while assembly-line working them.
>>
>painting gray deck bits
>occasionally fuck up and paint the deck
God I'm gonna have to go through and touch it all up afterwards again
>>
>>9309398
You didn't mask it all beforehand, did you?
>>
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>pay extra for express shipping
>pay for a seperate order from the same store with cheapo shipping
>theyre both shipping with fucking ups
>they both arrive at the same fucking time
Don't make my mistake bros
>>
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dumb question but did they ever make models for plain consumer luxury cars like lincoln marks, and eldorados and devilles, or is it mostly all muscle cars?
>>
>>9309634
Pretty sure they did, and good luck trying to get your hands on one now.
>>
>>9309531
>mask all of that shit
of course not, that wouldve taken probably even longer in the grand scheme of things. plus I'm low on airbrush thinner, my local hobby shop is temporarily out, and I don't want to pay a premium ordering some online. best to use a brush and some water.
>>
>>9309634
scalemates.com
>>
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would anons build a scale model of their own car, or that would be too boring?
>>
>>9309647
yeah thats what i was afraid of. neither my father nor me were ever into muscle car culture so building a model of it doesn't hold any significance other than making a model.
>>9309677
thanks. i guess once i track down a model then ill have to spend a while finding out whos selling it
>>
>>9309681
Well, the '65 Buick Riviera is one classic luxury car available. The kit is a bit shit though, not that all of them aren't.
>>
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>>9309680
sure, know anyone that makes toyota avalons?
>>
>>9309680
aoshima makes alot of absolute basic bitch npc cars. so im guessing there are a fair amount of people who would build a scale model of their car
>>
>>9309680
they don't make it in 1/35 scale
>>
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>>9309680
>he doesnt own a mclaren senna
>>
>>9309680
I think there's something nice about building super clean models of boring cars. looking at the least viewed/sold cars on emodels and just seeing stuff like hasegawa mitsubishi galant and a nissan bluebird. would just look sick with a fantastic paintjob.
>>
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>>9309680
I've checked on scalemates before for my car (VZ Commodore). There was a very small run of kits for the model preceding it (VY) and the model after it (VE) but none for mine.

I'd liked to have made a model of my car, right down to the various scratches and scrapes.
>>
>>9309634
they did... at about the same time those models were launched. You might have some luck in finding 3D printed models or stl files though
>>
>>9309933
All you'll get for Australian Ford/Holdens are die cast models

There isn't even a plastic model of an XB falcon which are at least known outside of Australia thanks to Mad Max
>>
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>build 1/72 trumpeter BTR
>the wheels dont spin freely
>>
Does dragon just not make good kits at all?
>>
First time using aftermarket metal tracks
Not liking how fiddly some of them are, metal is pretty soft and sometimes the wire just goes straight through the metal and breaks the link. Plus I have to do 226 of them (216 according to wikipedia)
Man anon you sure couldn't have picked a tank with better tracks to be obsessed with, huh?
Also I posted earlier but my post disappeared, fuck's wrong with 4chan
>>
>>9310807
Dragon's Tigers, Panthers and Panzers are some of the best around.
>>
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What's the cheapest primer that is also sufficiently good?
Also, if I brush paint with Tamiya acrylics, which thinner is better, Mr. Leveling thinner or Tamiya lacquer thinner retarder type?
>>
>>9309680
Have a mk3 golf in my stash, it was my first car so I picked it up when I saw a kit. Will build it one of these days.
>>
>>9310891
You need some kind of retarder if you want to brush paint anything bigger than a grain of rice
>>
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I wanted to build a nice and simple 1:48 Mig-15 but the Tamiya kit is gone from this earth and the Trumpeter kit i bought was dogshit.
Why is Cold war soviet planes such a niche subject?
>>
>>9310891
>What's the cheapest primer that is also sufficiently good?
Sandable automotive primer.
>>
>>9310905
It Isn't really anon, you have Trumpeter, Zvezda, Hobbyboss, Eduard, Revell and Airfix all making readily available kits in various scales. You also have a slew of small slav companies making your more niche subjects.
The real issue is that 90% of the market is MiG 15, 21 and 29 and Su 27.
>>
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>>9310905
Anon, you... you... baka-anon~

Bronco made amazing 1/48 Mig-15 this year, all other models are obsolete now. Buy bronco or go home.

>>9310923
Depends.
In 1/72 you have pretty much all cold war soviet jets in decent models (the only exception is Mig-27 - but there is a very good 1/48 one and probably Mig-23 + Mig-19)
>>
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Building an Aoshima water line series from the 70s. Quite cool to see how far kits have come in 50 or so years.
>>
mig-25 is the coolest
>>
>too distracted watching Demolition Man
>mask the wrong areas
fug

The two masked spots on the right shouldn't be masked.
>>
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>>9311035
And now I've forgotten my image.

I should put the model down, finish the kino, and go to bed.
>>
>>9311037
Is that you, drunk anon?
>>
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>>9311044
...maybe.

I might have neglected to mention I was also distracted by several drinks in my system.
>>
>>9311011
That is a point, I was thinking of 1/72 and 1/32, and my memory of the 1/48 MiG15 is a thousand monogram reboxings, which I'm guessing aren't so available these days.
>>
>>9309680
That'd be one of the few things I'd be prepared to break out of my usual scales for.

>>9310807
Their manuals are a "special" breed, but from what I've built the kits themselves are entirely ok at worst.

>>9311011
>the only exception is Mig-27
We're still waiting on Clearprop to cough up a good Mig-23 (RV/KP probably ain't arse, but probably not quite what one could wish for either so to say) and Su-25.
>>
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I bit the bullet and got myself a FineMolds Type 61, my fear of single piece tracks was unfounded, they are link and length with the position of the drive and idler wheels being clearly defined
What got me off guard was the absurd amount of grab handles and how thet are attached to the sprue
>>
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>>9311052
Took me a while but I fixed it. Also Demolition Man is a great piece of kino, I don't know why it got shat on so badly back in '93.

Time for bed, gotta wake up in 6 hours for my new wageslave job.
>>
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Is there a database for scale model stencils/templates for printing? I managed to lose couple of decals
>>
>>9309680
Lol I literally just received old Aoshima scale model of my car. Needs some minor tweaks to make it 100% like mine though.

Was the last one on ebay, bought from some godforsaken AUstralian store.
>>9311119
>SU-25
ArtModel should have a decent one.
But well, still below average.
>>
just had a proper tidy of my modelling desk. now it's not just a dumping ground for books and other bits and bobs. Been 7 months since I did anything, christ.
>>
>>9311438
Christ was a carpenter right? I suppose masonry are like, big model kits.
>>
>>9311455
Usually scratch building rather than kits.
>>
>>9310807
What do you mean? Their kits are great, the real issue is their shit tastic instructions that they never fucking fix or proofread. Don't tell me you fell for the meme here that people always do where they buy some shitty ancient kit from the 90s because it's 10$ only to end up frustrated and angry. I don't understand people like that, this is a HOBBY, it should be enjoyable. If you don't have money just wait and buy an actual not shit kit made in the last decade. You don't just impulse buy and throw it in a stash do YOU?
>>
>>9311681
>You don't just impulse buy and throw it in a stash do YOU?
say sike
>>
>>9311681
>You don't just impulse buy and throw it in a stash do YOU?
I don't. There are benefits to being a poorfag.
>>
>>9307229
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_myFbcjiQ1k
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AZWqHndbkVI

Get a silenced dual pump with a 5 gallon tank, it fills up quietly enough to have a conversation over and 5 gallons at 15-20 PSI through a brush would give you about 8 hours of nonstop airflow before it turned back on. This one was about $150 shipped. Don't buy pancake compressors or high flow compressors, they're not for hobbies and loud as fuck, they're for framing houses. Not to mention they're serious enough for high flow car spray guns and light use pneumatics like Earthquake guns or filling tires and shit. If you do buy a shitty Harbor Freight pancake compressor, they also sell 5 gallon collection cylinders you can connect to the compressor, run it for 3-4 times longer, then turn it off.

You will never need to buy another one as long as you live with Cali Tools silenced compressors.
>>
>>9310905
Try this one.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/324113817321?hash=item4b76b05ee9:g:TAcAAOSwD3deenS2
>>
>>9311011
>>9310905
By coincidence I'm just browsing around waiting for some paint on a 1/72 Mig-15 Zvezda to dry. Its pretty austere as kits go in honesty, very few pieces, but the price was right (same as a cup of coffee). I got it as a weathering project mainly.
>>
>>9312100
mcdonalds coffee, or starbucks coffee?
>>
>>9312100
>1/72 Mig-15 Zvezda
repack of an old Dragon kit. Same with Mig-17, Shilka and BRDM-2.

Nice material for conversions, skill training, etc.
>>
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Made a lot more progress on Rodney's deck. One more session or so, including some touching-up, and I can finally be done with this part.
... then I need to paint the davits and finish painting the boats.
>>
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found two Trumpeter 1/12 T-34's at a hobby store,
too bad they look way beyond my skill
>>
>>9311681
Nah, it's just that I've landed on nothing but duds with Dragon lately
>ISU-122
>Conqueror
>M103
That last one's a bit of a shame, it's the only available kit in 1/35 of that subject.
But yeah, seems I just got unlucky.
>>
>>9313067
What's wrong with the M103? Looking at the instructions on scalemates it looks p basic.
>>
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So apparently my Zvezda BMPT 2 can't traverse past ~60 degrees either direction.
The fit is tight but it's definitely supposed to be that way, the parts aren't warped or anything.
Fucks going on
>>
>>9304068
I work in a hairbrush factory and I’m told many of our mould Tools are comfortably over a million pounds each. They weigh at least 500kg too. For a simple hairbrush handle,
>>
I often hear people say that Tamiya is expensive but their 1/48 tanks are cheaper than other manufacturer's 1/72 tanks. What's up with that?
>>
>>9311013
A shop near me has a Fujimi 1/700 Admiral Scheer which according to scalemates was a tooling from the 70s, I almost want to but it just to see what an ancient kit looks like
>>
>>9313440
The vast majority of people are braindead and don't realize that they're supposed to buy in bulk from Japan, so they get ripped off and pay at least twice the price when they buy the kits from a western seller/shop.
>>
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>>9313450
Well here's this one to give you a rough idea. Sadly it's missing one of the batteries and the masts so I've had to kitbash the masts with whatever I had lying about. I only got it for pocket change off a boomer so not too irate about it. I haven't done a ship before and have the Trumpeter Hood to do so wanted a bit of practice first.
>>
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The turret isn't able to turn because it bumps in stuff on the back of the hull. And the turret basket is supposed to be horizontal.
Not to mention that the barrel is bent upwards, and I've seen this defect on other finished kits as well.
nice one Academy
>>
>>9313450
I'm the guy who built the 1/350 Tamiya Tirpitz the other month. The bulk of the tooling for it supposedly dates from 1978 but I found the detailing to (mostly) be pretty good. I can only recall two real issues with it:
>the tooling for smaller parts must be ridiculously out of alignment as quite a lot of the smallest parts (it's a boat, so there's a lot of them) had severe mold shift
>the guns had extremely visible seams, I really should have saved myself the time cleaning them and just bought brass ones
>the 3 deck plates are a very loose fit to the hull. It would have taken a lot of puttywork to fill in the gap. This is a bit of a minor quibble though.
Apart from that though I was really impressed with it for being a 40+ year old kit. I'm currently working on the Trumpeter Yorktown CV-10 which is a 19 year old kit and desu the Tamiya kit was way better despite being over twice as old. The Yorktown has a lot of fit issues (read: nothing fucking fits), the parts are severely lacking in detail, and there's flash everywhere.

Tamiya has their reputation for quality for a reason, and it shows with the Tirpitz kit. On the other hand, you've got old kits from the same decade like >>9313466 which look like a low polygon render intended for the skybox in a mid-00's Source Engine game.
>>
>>9313450
If you really want to see some shit go find a 4chan archive site and dig up the old "shit kit"-kinda groupbuild we had some time back. One guy made Revell's 1/570 King George V (or some such) and, well, that was a sight to behold. From afar. Most definitely not up close and personal on your own modelling bench.
>>
>>9313440
Well a 1/48 tank is $38 to $45 here while a 1/72 tank is about $20 to $30 so idk
There's definitely regional pricing with tamiya products though
>>
>>9304665
I know that shop! It was awesome when they had those indoor R/C car tracks, dirt track and a road/drifting track out the back. Now it's just caravan storage I think, sad...
>>
Can I get away with not putting tow cables on my tank or are they always there on modern tanks?
>>
>>9313668
What if the tank has used/lost it?
>>
>>9314037
Yeah, I mean aside from those. I was wondering if a tank would be paraded around without its tow cable.
I have to paint the upper and lower hulls separately and the only part connecting them was the cable, so it's more of a convenience thing.
>>9313190
From what I've read, it's less of a model of an M103 and more of what a 3d modeler thinks a M103 looks like after going to tankfest once.
But I hasten to add that I have not bought the kit and it might be boomers making mountains out of molehills. That said, I have not seen a more scathing bashing on armorama, and all of the other review sites say more or less the same thing.
>>
Looks like Tamiya is producing an M18 Hellcat in 1/35. About damn time we have a modern Hellcat kit.
>>
>>9313411
yeah, but those have to run for literally decades and produce millions of parts. Scale model kits are much smaller number of runs, some kits may only be produced a few tens of thousand times.
>>
>>9304665
Man the look of a hobby shop is so ubiquitous. I have a shop in the US that looks exactly like this, it's uncanny.
>>
>>9314079
ah, this looks nice. I love the hellcat and have been wanting to build one for a while now.
>>
>>9313255
I assume that the smoke grenade geometry is fucked, they should shaved down to follow the rim next to the arrow
>>
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Disaster lads.
>Moving models around at 2am
>Tired hands fumble
>Next minute Eindecker is in pieces
I went full rage mode and stripped the flying wires from it (since the wing was caught in them), now I have a broken model. Only one part is missing, a step that may have been missing before and I just hadn't noticed. The wheel will be annoying to refit as I will probably need to pin it, but other than that I could look at this as an opportunity to clean the dirt from the model, do some new weathering, repair and rerig the plane with the lessons I have learned. A more recent model of mine is >>9300048 and you can see how bad the old rigging was here >>9305166. I am still in love with this propeller paint job and could save it for a future plane, but I don't know if I should save this one instead. Thoughts /smg/?
>>
i'm looking to buy a guillows balsa kit as my first model, what can i use to cover it instead of the paper included? preferably something that can be painted over.
i've seen some models online that were wrapped in something that didn't look like paper or plastic, maybe it was balsa sheet, idk.
>>
>>9313450
I can't speak for Fujimi but Tamiya's 1974 Rodney is very mixed. some detail is actually quite good, other detail is, uh, kinda bad honestly
>>
>>9305940
>track jig
How many tanks are you making? Why not make lengths out of the links then build it like link-and-length track?
>>
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>>9314079
As a 1/72 armour modeler, I'd kill for ANY Hellcat kit, never mind a 'modern' one (Armourfast doesn't count!). Also when the fuck is anyone going to actually look at a photo of an 805th Hellcat and release the backing on that tac number wraps around the whole ass of the tank, not just the side plates.
>>
>>9314079
>Hellcat
Wake me up when the M36 Chads show up
>>
>>9314279
The paper should be entirely paintable, though it'll probably take a bit of paint or varnish to saturate it.
>>
>>9314411
The whole ass as a decal? I'm not sure that'd work out all that well.
>>
>>9314234
Shite, that sucks.
Surely you could fix this and just paint another prop?
>>
can that anon who mentioned Fujimi's non-snap kits remind me what the brand was called? it was like some sort of subsidiary or coequal company, went under a completely different name but can't remember it, and I can't find it on scalemates
>>
>>9314478
I can fix it if it seems worth it, might redo some of the painting as well but we will see.
>>
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>>9314463
I... meant realise. You see this marking scheme a lot on hellcats. Decal sheets, die casts, box-art, finished models, there's even a running real one marked up for this unit; and they are all wrong. It's baffling because I haven't seen a single picture of that unit that shows those markings that doesn't also make you question '...is that rear end a different colour to the rest of the TD?'
>>
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>>9314079
How hard would it be to recreate one of those cursed Bosnian hellcats?
>>
>>9314495
nevermind I didnt realize the thread hadnt been deleted yet, it's just in a Fujimi series on scalemates.
also just picked up that Finemolds Ha-Go and placed an order for Aoshima's Fuso which comes out in a week or two
>>
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The nationality marking is to wrap around above the mantlet, the decal didn't, so I got to try and mix up a somewhat matching off-white there to the yellowed decals. Not a perfect match, but assorted filters on top and the difference should be minimal.
Oddly matte decals as well, but at leats it didn't disintegrate on me.
>>
>>9314553
That probably depends on whether or not there's a kit for the vehicle they ripped the new engine and grill from.
>>
>>9314349
currently just one, but who knows how many I'll build in the future. Going 1 link at a time is certainly possible, I'm doing it for the T-20 Komsomolets right now, it just sucks balls. Making one wasn't all that hard either, and more enjoyable than screwing around with the links. Plus with some refinement it may be marketable.
>>
>>9314600
nah, you can scratch build that easily with putty and styrene.
>>
>>9314568
Finemolds is alright but I've only ever heard nightmare stories about Aoshima.
Out of all the Japanese model manufacturers, Aoshima is like the old school Revell / Monogram of Japan.
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>>9315237
>Aoshima
idk I have their Soryu from 2003 or 4 and I've done a bit of dryfitting, seems fine. detail is good too
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>>9315244
forgot to say:
I think it may be a case of them reboxing old shit, like you said with Revell. I made Revell's PT-17 a few months ago from 2014 or '16 and it was a joy. granted it didn't come out so well because it was only my third kit; but if I had known then what I knew now, and had the equipment I have now, it would've been far better.
>>
>>9315244
>>9315245
You're right, their Fuso kit does seem more modern, but still a little soft on the details.

Found a review and it doesn't look too bad for a 1/700 kit. Are you going to be putting some photo etch details on it or just building it OOB?

http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/ijn/bb/Fuso-700-ao/aoshima-review.html
>>
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Zvezda you fucks you made me install the ATGMs backwards and now everything's glued in place and dried and I can't fix it
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>>9315237
Aoshima have some great kits, their yamato in 1/700 is one of the best
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>>9315257
idk how much theyre changing exactly but either way the tooling is from 2007 iirc, which is more recent than my Soryu, which was good.
i ordered the version with barrels, deluxe or ultimate edition or some shit. im assuming it's coming with maybe some basic PE at most. i'll probably do some railings. not a fan of handcrafting tiny AA guns though
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>>9314079
>no internal crew figures
Hard pass from me, boomers who can't figure paint deserve to be shamed. Especially people who do in-flight plane displays but the seats are empty, they should be rounded up and shot.
>>
>>9315590
someone sounds upset
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>>9315590
Seethe more
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>>9315590
Do you mind posting the figures you painted, anon?
>>
>Fine molds F-4 and F-14
>Have to buy weapons separately
>Have to buy TWO weapon packs if you want a mixed A2A A2G loadout on an F-4
>This costs nearly as much as the F-4 itself
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>>9315807
The Hobby Boss 1:48 F-14B despite all its flaws has a shitton of stores included.
>standard Tomcat A2A weapons (though they fucked that up as well, providing the AIM-54A, when the late B only used the AIM-54C)
>for ground weapons they just said "fuck it" and threw in the F-18's sprue, so you even have shit the Tomcat can't carry like the Harpoon
>LANTIRN pod
>even though there's no instructions for it, it looks like every part is there to build the TARPS pod
So I went for the valid loadout for the most variety, one GBU-31 JDAM and one GBU-16 in the front, Sparrow in the rear recessed pylon, LANTIRN on one glove pylon, Phoenix as counterweight on the other side, and two Sidewinders.

Also my HB JF-17 also just that the weapon sprue of the J-10 thrown in, so it has a bunch of Chinese missiles I'm pretty sure the Pakistanis didn't actually buy, but no A2G weapons.
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>>9305551
on the other hand you have the most large-scale (meant for RC) boat companies in the world. most of them are small operations, but still...
>>
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Stage 1 of the dazzle masking is finally complete. Time to spray it and then cry about how much paint bleeds behind the tape.
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>>9315266
>he didn't research his references in advance
point & laff
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>>9315266
It's the special anti-ambush variant, they run one per company normally.
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>>9316019
It's to go faster in an emergency.
>>
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With the OT-130 currently twiddling its thumbs while the pre-pin wash gloss coat cures I thought I'd start poking something new. The chosen victim being Revell's 1/72 T-55AM along with Silesian Models' resin conversion kit to turn it into the Finnish Ilmatorjuntapanssarivaunu 90 SPAAG, more commonly known as the Marksman T-55.

With their usual generosity the Silesian models conversion kit doesn't just come with the resin bits needed, as an extra bonus you also get a few bits of the moulds themselves, along with a few extra chunks of extra resin here and there. In both cases the majority (but not all) are to be found on the underside/inside of parts rather than the more visible sides though.

>>9316001
And at some point after the hull, the relatively smooth and featureless hull, is done you'll get the joy of splintering up the superstructure.
Oh well, shouldn't be worse than (grabbing something entomophily out of thin air here) a T-55 hull, unless the PE and masts and other such tiny bits are already on.
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>>9316149
>And at some point after the hull, the relatively smooth and featureless hull, is done you'll get the joy of splintering up the superstructure.
I've had a look at the carrier island and the splinter design for it, it's actually really simple compared to the hull. The hull seems smooth and featureless but it's got a lot of weird shaped contours and seam lines that need working around, while the island is just two simple monolithic halves that join down the centre lengthwise.
>>
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>>9316149
Good choice for a subject. And in my personal opinion Revells T-55 isnt that bad of a kit, since most of the detailfixing has to be done on the turret and you are not using it. Worst part on the hull will be the headlights, and drilling open wheels. Built a DDR one with minerollers last year and got another one in shelf waiting to be built together with my Takom MAZ-537G.
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>>9316162
Yes, it doesn't seem like it'll be the Revell part of this build that'll cause the sulphuric language.
>>
>Order two Very Fire detail sets from freetime hobbies
>Both of them are missing parts

Ugh, I just contacted them and hopefully they actually reply. Major fuck up if I bought multiple sets from them and both were missing parts.
>>
>tfw got a fuck-off expensive set of Vallejo Kalinsky Sable brushes and a wet pallette
I'm gonna be a figure painter I am.
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>>9316162
This image makes my brain hurt, it looks too much like a painting
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>>9316425
It's just shitty HDR.
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>order something from tankograd.ru
>expect it to take months to get here since shit from Russia always takes forever to reach the US
>arrives in 5 days
Highly recommended, time to buy several more rare russian resin kits
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>>9316626
if only rare Slav resin kit makers shipped directly to the US.
there's only 1 place in the whole US that has Combrig kits but more than half of them arent in stock. the only other place to get them in the US is from ebay and even then they're marked up
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>>9316649
>>9316626
resin kits scare me. my limited experience of using resin cast upgrade parts of plane, tank and ship kits makes me hate resin because it's just a pain in the ass to glue, especially gluing photo etch onto it.
>>
made a new thread

>>9316833
>>9316833
>>9316833
>>9316833
>>
>>9316714
Pin resin parts for extra strength, or depending on the kind of part, you could use epoxy putty as well as/instead of glue.





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