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File: 1625298144526.jpg (754 KB, 2620x968)
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New Tool 1/48 F-89 Never Ever Edition

Previous Thread: >>9064210

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US)
>>
>>9165559
btw old thread is >>9100271
>>
>just got a refund on concert tickets that totaled $850
>just spent $200 on some models
feels good bros
>>
>>9165880
You cant' say that and not tell us what you bought, anon. I'll start: My most recent model purchases were a 1/48 Tamiya F-84 and a 1/48 Kitty Hawk F-94. I also ordered some resin parts for my F-100 and F-104 that are coming up in my build schedule.
>>
>>9166187
very well:
>deluxe edition of Flyhawk's Bismarck
>an older Tamiya Sherman kit from the 90s in 35, I think the M4A3 with crew. never done figures before so it'll be fun to try it out
>older Tamiya kit in 35 of an early production Tiger, also from the late 90s I believe. it may be a custom kit which includes some Aber photoetch and other details and stuff, plus a brass muzzlebrake
>HobbyBoss' Akula-class sub in 350. not a big fan of modern naval stuff but subs are cool, so
as for the F-84, I'm looking forward to any progress you make on that in the future.
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Just finished these 1/72 scale IS-2s. It's nice that there's always 2 kits in a box from S-model.
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>>9166314
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>>9166328
>>
This might be a retarded question, but would it be stupid to dip some pieces in thinned paint if they're largely one color?
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>>9166566
Never mind. Decided to play it safe on this one. Dipping would have taken forever with no real gain anyway.
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I've assembled the Spitfire, but I'm out of light grey primer. The primer was quite old, as it hadn't been used in 3 years or so, so there wasn't much to use. I'm wondering what color of primer you recommend, as I've seen light grey primers used and black primers used perhaps more commonly. What's the difference and which one is better?
>>
>>9166814
Light grey used to be the standard primer, as it was commonly available and was seen as a neutral starting point. The workflow would generally be (if spraying, brush painting would often be done without even priming) "prime grey, pre shade panel lines black, multiple colour coats to saturate, varnish, decals, varnish, weather, varnish."
People have increasingly switched to black basing for aircraft, something which was more commonly done with armoured vehicles. This is followed by either a colour coat and then highlighting coat, or alternatively a "marbling coat(s)" for texture followed by a "blending coat" to bring it up to colour. The advantages of black basing are that you don't have to counteract colour desaturation as much as a grey prime, the disadvantages are largely based around it being a less familiar and more tedious workflow for many.
If you are not intent on building visual texture before colour coat, just prime whichever colour you prefer, then paint your colours on top until they are sufficiently saturated. It is your model, do it how you want.
>>
Have any of you guys built Italeri's 1/72 Ju-88A4?
>>
>>9166314
>It's nice that there's always 2 kits in a box from S-model.
Can't say I'm a fan. If for whatever odd reason I'd want two I could just buy two, but two per box and buying one isn't an option any more.
>>
>>9167092
It's a very odd format, as even if you're marketing to wargamers, most will either want one of something, or three.
>>
>>9166566
Yes, the paint would pool and it would look awful. Just buy a rattlecan if you want large 1 color coverage. Or just, you know use an airbrush lol.
>>
I guess I should try to do the marbling technique for this?
>>
>>9168375
It's likely a good start to get the general tonal variation in, though you'll probably have to resort to other tricks as well for those dried-puddle looking bits.
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Anyone know where I can get a Snowcrawler like this? I need one for a 28mm tabletop game so Im not quite sure what the scale would be (I think 1/72)
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>>9168788
>I need one for a 28mm tabletop game so Im not quite sure what the scale would be (I think 1/72)
Here's how 28mm and 1/72 compare to each other.
Math time. A normal dude is somewhere in the vicinity of 1800mm tall. A dude in 28mm might be 28mm tall, or maybe more like 30mm since the measurement is often to the eyes. 1800 / 28 = 64. So the scale you want is about 1/64. That's basically non-existent for "normal" model kits, but there is a model railroad scale/gauge that is supposed to be just that, S scale. Unfortunately for you that most definitely ain't one of the common ones there either.

Considering the snowcrawler's very boxy shape your best option might be to rip the threads from a suitably sized tank model (28mm, 1/72 or 1/48) and scratch building the rest.
>>
>>9168788
"Kharkovchanka" but I don't think there is a kit. I think its boxy enough you could give it a go, it looks like a fun subject actually, particularly in orange.
https://youtu.be/f6R-h06IsJw
>>
>>9168188
I suck with the airbrush. I think I had too much thinner last time though.
>>
>>9169528
Airbrush takes a bit to get right, but you master it eventually. Rattle cans aren't great, but they're cheap and they sort of "Trained" me to use airbrushes correctly I suppose. If you don't got a good airbrush yet, start using rattlecans I reckon.
>>
>>9168788
General rule of thumb:

1/72 = 20mm
1/56 = 28mm (but it really only works for true scale figures such as Perry or GW Lotr)
1/48 = 32mm (or heroic 28mm)
1/35 might work for some already oversized 40k imperial guard vehicles too, but not every kit will look good.

In any case 1/72 is way too small.

Back to your question:
Empress Miniatures sells two vehicles that look somewhat like what you are looking for. I'm not an expert, but i would say they make decent snow crawlers.

https://www.empressminiatures.com/viking-with-weapon-station-887-p.asp

https://www.empressminiatures.com/warthog--888-p.asp

Quality of these Empress vehicles is generally good, but they are not as detailed as a proper scale model kit. Scale is 1/48 or 1/50.. they have both scales indicated in their vehicle section for some reason.
>>
>>9169688
Probably technically scaled to 1/50 but 1/48 is the magic number that wargaming monkeybrains will latch on to and buy. Kind of how the likes of Airfix and Revell are marketing a lot of ye olde 1/76 kits as 1/72. Lying is easier than changing the model, and not enough of your target market will care enough to check.
>>
>>9169745
>Kind of how the likes of Airfix and Revell are marketing a lot of ye olde 1/76 kits as 1/72

Interestingly enough, Revell went back to put 1/76 on the boxes of their old Matchbox kits they still re-box every couple of years with new artwork.
>>
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>>9169789
Except they also pull shit like this...
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>>9169795
I think i had that tank as a child over 20 years ago.
Those were the matchbox kits with plastic link-and-length tracks compared to the ones with rubber bands. I think it might actually be 1:72.

What i don't get is their constant reboxing.
They have the molds, and the kits still sell apparently.
Why not create a "nostalgia" line to put these kits into. Lower the price a bit and it would be perfectly fine to sell 50+ year old kits for me.
But their marketing seems to try to convince people that those are current generation kits.
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>vallejo paint bottle fucking exploded all over my clothes and kitchen while trying to squeeze paint out
FUUUUUUUUCK
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>>9169822
I had an extremely brainlet moment where I tried to airbrush the paint back in the jar
It ruined a pair of pants, a shirt and the model
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Being a massive retard I posted this in the fucking LEGO thread instead...

I finally have some summer holidays so I can get some work done on my homemade Porsche 919, it is getting close to a paintable finish. I did a coat of primer to check out the progress so far, and it is not too bad.

You can tell how rough the finish was before the sanding and putty work inside the wheelarch where I haven't bothered to do any sanding work since it will be hidden from view anyway
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>>9170107
The rear section had some fairly complicated aero that was impossible to 3D print but with some 0,2mm PP sheet it has been reasonably easy to make all the small vent fins and details. Here's a pic before extra putty and primer of that bit
>>
>>9169688
If he wants to make a Kharkovchanka then those two are way too small.
Although technically that "viking" is a snowcrawler.
>>9169810
Well I guess periodically re-releasing lets them scale their prices up each time. Or maybe it's cheaper to produce in batches and then use the same line to produce something different in between.
>>
>>9170148
>Or maybe it's cheaper to produce in batches and then use the same line to produce something different in between.

For sure, but re-doing the cover artwork again and again too?
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Back to making some progress on the Triebflugel. First time doing an aircraft of sorts, definitely messed up a few seams. The overall red is a nice change of pace though

also, fuck the new captcha
>>
>>9170545
I'm guessing that's the miniart one?
>>9170448
I guess that part is for the suckers who will think it's a new kit.
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>order resin kits for my Tu22m3 build
>the Russian one is flawless and perfect
>the British cockpit one that I was looking most forward to is a massive piece of shit and straight up missing parts
>go get product number to complain to customer service
>its sold out

Why the fuck do I always get the left over garbage every time I order resin? This fucking happened to me last time too when the last resin kit guy I ordered from "accidentally" sent me the last in stock garbage that was supposedly test prints and not intended for sale.
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Here's the cockpit of the F-84, it doesn't look quite right to me. Any idea of what to do? The seatbelts are made of masking tape, the rest is the kit.
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>>9170956
the seatbelts look a little on the small side to me desu, and a bit unnaturally placed. They need a bit of "sag" to look like real useable seatbelts. The rest looks quite good, maybe a little bit of light drybrushing or chipping to make it seem a bit more "lived in"
>>
do you guys have any tips on doing seatbelt decals? my Eduard Pfalz came with some, can I just place them normally or will I have to cut up some masking tape like an autist?
>>
I started on my first aircraft recently: 1/72 hasegawa draken. I haven't hand brushed this much detail for a very very long time.

I added some masking tape and wire seatbelts and sculpted/added some detail onto the seat sides because it was kinda a plastic brick. The paint looks rougher in the photo, idk why, but irl its got a nice smooth finish
>>
>>9171323
here's another angle
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>>9171323
Very nice. Next time try to cut them a little thinner though, they're a little big to be proper scale.
>>9171319
You just stick em on the seat. If you were gonna stick em on tape or something to give them depth you might as well just make them like
>>9171323
Did. Plus if you were really a belt autist you would just buy aftermarket belts like from Eduard.
>>9170956
Looks perfectly fine to me. Like the other guy suggested I'd probably do some very light chipping on the seat edges. You should have painted the seat cushions a contrasting color desu. Looking at pics of F-84 cockpits a lot of them have black/grey seat cushions. Other than that it looks good.
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>>9171377
>You just stick em on the seat
guess I'll just put them on then, yeah. don't want to have to spend more money on this kit for aftermarket parts, since I just bought a few more kits. and the masking tape just isn't worth the effort imo plus I've been working on this kit too long (mainly because I've been waiting for equipment, paints, etc. to arrive in the mail) and just want it over with. will hopefully have some progress to post tomorrow.
pic unrelated
>>
Why do Vallejo paint fumes smell so sweet?
>>
>>9170060
Can't you just tip it back in from the cup?
>>
>>9171661
acrylics in general are sweet in my experience, but wtf are you doing to vallejos to make them smell?
>>
Why do historic models come in so many parts? Do you really need individual spark plugs on an engine?
>>
>>9171716
Airbrushing without a respirator because I left it in the garage, and was too lazy to go get it just to spend 20 seconds base coating a plane cockpit
>>
Do you guys order online or visit your local shop?
>>
>>9172055
i try to visit my local shops bc i just want to support them, even if theyre a little more expensive than online. sometimes they have some old or weird stuff thats hard to find, plus the main place i go has a lot of stuff on sale, so sometimes it ends up cheaper than online.
>>
>>9172055
Order online because the nearest model shop is 172 miles away.
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>>9172090
expanding on this, last time i went i got this pic related old trimaster he162 for like 10 bucks. Its got all the cool cast white-metal engine parts and some quite nice photoetch.
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>>9171707
I did, but I am very greedy and I always try to squeeze every drop
>>
When was the last time you enjoyed building a kit? I've noticed I enjoy it less and less and do it more our of habit than passion. Rarely finishing a model because a lack of passion turns small mistakes into quits.
>>
>>9172179
I enjoy every model I make, but the last one I built was over a year ago.
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>>9172055
I try to buy paint and stuff from local store, but very seldom models since they almost never stock the stuff I want.
Still at least here it's pretty obvious that they're on their way out unfortunately
>>
>>9169789
>>9169745
>>9169795
Don't Airfix sell their 1/76 ground vehicles as 1/76-OO scale these days? I could have sworn I saw some of their old D-Day stuff being marketed that way.
>>
What paint for carbon fiber at 1:48 scale? The exhaust on the F-14B had some unpainted carbon-fiber panels.

Just using flat black doesn't sound right.
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>>9172491
Anthracite grey for me
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>>9172524
Sounds about right.
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>>9172055
for equipment and paints, I do my best to visit the two local stores.
for kits, almost always online, since the stores (combined) have a great plethora of kits but usually never the exact thing I'm looking for. But sometimes I get a kit or two from them.
>>
>>9172055
These days, I get all my kits at some arbitrary price from the disgusting 'so obese he appears to be melting' guy who sells ancient model trains at the local flea market.
Odd bits like the occasional brush or pot of paint, I get from my """local""" model shop, if miserable old shit who runs the place decided to stock the shelves that day
>>
>>9172491
K Burnt Metal/Pale burnt metal possibly toned over with Tamiya Smoke (it has very similar brownish grey look), then matte the shit out of it with flat clear.

Or, the other way around, dark grey base coat, then get this brownish hue with oils and pigments.
>>
>>9172055
Both.
I kinda love walking between shelves full of kits, even if I am not going to buy anything or when they put paints for you to examine, and decide which one is better for your project. Hate the "all the goods hidden behind the counter with a salty boomer who treats you like you are wasting his time" type of stores.
>>
>>9172055
Im not driving 400 kilometers to the nearest shop.
If I had time and money i would though.
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>>9172055
I order online from a shop 40km away.

They fuck around sometimes for an entire workweek to deliver.
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Fuck, my only bottle of Gunze flat white is fused shut, and I can't find my Soimatic 9000.
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>>9172966
The warm water trick works on paint bottles as well
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>>9172953
>They fuck around sometimes for an entire workweek to deliver.
that's an issue I have with scale hobbyist, sometimes even if they have shit in stock they take like 4 days just to ship it. normally delivery is somewhat quick once it's shipped though because they're only about 200 miles from me.
whereas Sprue Brothers are about 1200 miles away, but oftentimes they ship the same day I place an order.
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>>9172966
bringing this back from a few threads ago I see, kek
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>>9172966
>be me
>buy 3d printed can opener
>worked for a while but eventually cracked
>have to open them my old way
10/10, works every time.

Virgin basedboi opener vs Chad Stillson Wrench
>>
Imagine needing the aid of any tool to open a 10ml pot of paint. Imagine actually being a gay.
>>
>>9173435
does using your shirt count because sometimes I need to
>>
>>9173447
That still makes you gay but only on days when you wear that shirt.
>>
What is the kit you want, but will never EVER materialise?
I want the RA1/C&C Mammoth tank in 1/48 or 1/72
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>>9173465
a 700-scale Emperador Carlos V
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>>9173435
Imagine being a knuckle-dragging troglodyte that doesn't wipe paint from the threads before closing the bottle and then needs to use his muscles to force the cap open.
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>>9173397
Why would you ever but 3D printed anything. On a consumer scale it's a fucking meme and no one can tell me otherwise.
>>
>>9173719
3d printed stuff can be pretty strong and it's way cheaper than injection moulding but I wouldn't expect a 3d printed clamp like that would last long against tamiya/Mr hobby paint jars since those get welded shut pretty bad
>>
>>9173850
>and it's way cheaper than injection moulding
Much lower initial investment, but generally a much higher per-item cost.
>>
>>9172966
>>9172987
>>9173397
>>9173435
>>9173525
>>9173850
These niggers have never heard of a cigarette lighter. Takes two seconds
>>
>>9173929
smoking is gay
>>
>>9173943
They don’t check your chest x-rays to sell you an 89 cent lighter
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>>9173897
So it's going to be cheaper for the end user since it's a niche item, unless basedboy clamps become a massive market
>>
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WHEN THE FUCK IS AIRFIX GONNA RELEASE A 1/72 JAVELIN

I WANT IT.

THE 1/48 IS TOO FUCKING BIG AND DOESN'T COME WITH A PILOT FUCKING GIVE IT TO ME AIRFIX AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAH.

Also 1/72 Yak-38 when? The Revell kit is ancient garbage, the cockpit is a fucking crime. And not even a resin or aftermarket kit exists to correct it what the fuck.
>>
>>9173929
No thanks, I'll stick to hot water or holding the lid against the bulb in my desk lamp
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When I model 1:35 armor my eyes get blurry from focusing on all of the fine parts assembly.

How do you guys protect your vision from getting fucked? Is there a good hobby magnifier lens brand?
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>>9174318
1/35 is pretty big for model kits, you might need glasses
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Tamiya is coming up with this, I guess.
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>>9174318
>Is there a good hobby magnifier lens brand?

I have a cheap one from Amazon. It came with a variety of lenses and has an optional light. I don't think you need to spend extra for a "hobby" product. If you want to spend more, look for dentist supply.

Its really helpful when i paint faces or other small things or when the light inside the room is not perfect.
But most of the time i don't need it. But if your vision gets burry it might be worth to get your eyes checked in general. Maybe you really need just a pair of glasses.
>>
>>9174318
I repair watches so I just wear a loupe like I always do.
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>>9174318
Probably get your eyes checked. If you can get them, I think Master Tools makes cheap headband magnifiers that work.
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>>9175103
Either Master Tools or Model Craft, can't remember which.
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Finished this up yesterday. Was a fun build!
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>>9175305
I always laugh how Airfix decided to add this barrel for holding tail rather than tell people to add weight in the nose.
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>>9175364
Even with all the weight I put in the nose it still ended up tail-sitting. Was a big piss off, but I'm glad they included that barrel.
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>>9175387
Mine is a bit tail-heavy but more-or-less stable.
But I used lead from bullets for more weight.
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Experimented with marbling on these three drop tanks. All three with three different approaches:
>gray primer with black and white marbling
>black primer with white marbling
>black primer with base-color marbling (Gunze H308)
Only problem is now I have no fucking idea which was which. So I guess in the end it didn't matter all that much.
>>
Anyone know if the Zvezda or Takom t-14 is better?
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>>9176228
All I know is Panda is the worst.

I'm building it.
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>>9176240
How bad is it? Describe it.
I'm thinking I'm going to just get the Takom one because it's a "safe" brand
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>>9176369
No you retard get the Zvezda one. Takom is alright but their kits are a pain in the ass to build sometimes.

Zvezda is unironically Russian Tamiya.
>>
>>9175907
They all look the same desu, I wouldn't worry about it. Stick to whichever one you thought was easiest.
>>
What's the appeal of building so many gun boxes? Maybe it's because I don't care for the subject but I see a lot of tanks looking the same. Planes even more so.

Could someone explain the autism behind wanting to build these very similar kits over and over?
>>
>>9176228
Zvezda tracks are easier to deal with, half the price , and a bit more accurate since they did work with Uralvagonzavod.
>>
Do you guys airbrush prime your cockpits? I like to do the airbrushing in one sitting and I don't like how you have to airbrush the cockpit, clean the brush, put the setup away, hald-paint the cockpit, assemble the plane THEN take out the airbrush again. Surely there is a more streamlined approach?
>>
>>9173465
1:48 scale M/42
>>
>>9173465
WHEN?
Akagi triple deck 1:350
HMS Courageous early version 1:350
HMS Furious aircraft carrier prototype version 1:350
HMS Sverige 1:350 (and the rest of the swedish fleet)
plastic Churchill MK.1 1:35
Bandkanon 1 1:35
Caproni Ca.313 1:48
KP-bil 1:35
>>
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>>9173465
1:35 version of this paper shit
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>>9176986
Couldn't you just get away with not priming the cockpit? Its not like you have to worry about damaging the paint if its enclosed.
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>>9177129
Won't the paint not stick well if not primed? I'm really iffy on brush painting bare plastic.
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>>9173465
1:48 NATF in USN service, because it never existed.
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>>9173465
1/72 Finnish Vickers 6 ton.
Also while it feels like it should exist so probably doesn't qualify for 'never ever', a 1/72 M18 Hellcat that isn't made by frigging Armourfast.
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>>9177139
Just wash the parts in warm water with dishwashing liquid in it and rinse well.
>>
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There is a channel where a russian makes tanks out of plasticine and shoots them with other tanks made from plasticine
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hadhqb5e64g
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>>9177139
>>9177129
>>9176986

I never prime cock-pits.

Alcohol-based acrylics have no problems sticking to bare plastic. Don't even need to degrease. Shit to paint by hand though (brush-painting with Tamiya... you get this one)
Water-based acrylics like Vallejo are more tricky, almost always have to degrease the surface with alcohol (and touching plastic with fingers can ruin paint adhesion), but I usually use them to paint the details over the airbrushed base color (Tamiya) and have no problems.
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>>9173465
1/72 GTF Hercules. Or just about any other fighter from Freespace.

>>9176986
I keep a spray can of primer handy for those little "I can't be arsed to clean the airbrush for this" primer jobs.
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>>9177343
>those views

what the fuck how's this a thing?
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>>9173465
3d-printing is a thing, but i would love to have a SU-76M kit in 1/48.
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>>9177733
Russia is a strange place...
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>>9177733
He made Schwerer Gustav out of plasticine that can fire, how can you ignore this madman?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bFFbOcR5OHA

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QbAjgC419ug
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I swear, putting the cockpits into a fuselage and fusing fuselage halves together is absolutely the worst part about making planes. one mistake and you can completely fuck up the cockpit area, break shit inside while you're trying to fit it all together (even dry-fitting), and even then there might be fit issues.
I'm considering stopping this Pfalz for now and moving on to AFV Club's U-48.
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Assembled. Getting the upper chassis and superstructure to fit was a bugger and a half, it's basically too long. Start form the front to get the upper glacis and superstructure in place, glue the two engine deck parts together and then sand the bejeezus out of that where it mates up against the superstrcuture until things are mostly where they should and the errors should be as subtle as possible.
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How are the quality of trumpeter models? I've been seeing them everywhere and they seem to have every single tank I want to make.
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>>9178525
Accuracy sometimes has odd blunders, fit and level of detail tends to be ok.
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>>9175907
I usually default to marbling with whatever the base colour is. If nothing else so because I can simply marble and blend in one go without having to clean out my airbrush. For colours not on the greyscale it also help avoid desaturation. Of course, this can be changed around for various effects, desaturation for example might be desirable for a more weathered final look, and when I'm working with a pretty dark colour I like to marble with something lighter to get more contrast against the black primer.
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>>9178525
They're a good middle of the road company with a large range of kits in many scales, but sometimes lacking in fit, ease of assembly, and accuracy, with reasonably good detail. I would definitely put their stuff above Revell or older Hasegawa, but they're no Tamiya or Eduard.
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>>9178525
Their tanks are pretty good. Their planes are also good but the panel lines are kinda shallow so be careful when you paint them. They're a solid 7.5/10 company. The only reason they're not higher is because they can be a pain to get sometimes and the detail is lacking in smaller parts sometimes (ie plane wheels, etc )
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>>9176901
Just cause they look the same to you isn't true for tank autists. Personally I love the T-62 far far more than the T-55A and have built tons of them but if you looked at a picture of them side by side you probably wouldn't notice the difference, but I do.
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>>9176986
Buy a rattle can primer. I just prime the cockpit with a spray primer, then basecoat it with another spray can in the majority color its in. Then from there I will paint in the detail on top of that. I do not even bother with the airbrush until the cockpit is complete and sealed inside the plane with the canopy on and masked.

For me cockpits are an entire day thing though because I am not a faggot who half asses the cockpit and/or leaves it empty.
>"But no one will see it"
It's funny because the guys who say this are the same kind who will scratchbuild entire wheel wells/wheel well detail and wiring despite those never being visible either.
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I'm backkkkkkkkkkk
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>>9179189
Looks cool and way too much of a hassle to build!
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>>9178058
For me the main thing holding me back from building more planes are the clear parts. I hate masking and pre-cut masks are rarely if ever available at the same time as I want to buy a plane.
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>>9179328
buddy, you need to get your tism levels checked

>>9170559
forgot to respond but yes, MiniArt kit, it's getting there
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>>9179345
I'm allergic to complex photo-etch builds.
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>>9179351
never built a ship before, never soldered PE before, long hair don't care, dove into that shit. Turns out, not that terrible
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>>9179372
I've worked with photo-etch quite a bit, but I'm a clumsy mf at the best of times, and I really hate having to super glue protruding bits onto my models.
Trying to roll a tube out of a sheet of PE I can do in a pinch, but shit like workable tool clamps and working hinges are just beyond me.
I'm about to build an Italeri Sd. Kfz. 234 Puma and I MIGHT try to build photo etched engine louvers for it if I feel brave.
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Anyone ever had something like this happen to their paint bottles?

Its not spilling out from there, but the cap basically ripped open at this spot.

Any idea why or how to prevent this from happening to my other paints?
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>>9179715
shitty plastic or you're putting a thinner in there that's not made for that plastic.

Like with toys, don't live in an armpit and keep them away from the sun.
If you live in an armpit, invest in AC.
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>>9179720
No thinner in there for sure.
The bottle was in a large drawer, surrounded by other paint, brushes and stuff.

And i live in Germany, and we had barely over 20 degree Celsius in my town the entire summer, so i would rule the heat out as a reason.

For now i replaced the cap with a different one from an empty bottle, but if this keeps happening i will run out of spare caps quickly.
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>>9179730
it's probably just a fluke then.

Just so you know, warehouses where these types of products are stored can get pretty fucking hot. Even when they're shipping stuff out, the warehouses where they're being packaged isn't ACed and delivery trucks themselves will get hot, especially since the back isn't vented or ACed like the crew cabin is. It takes extreme heat to cause something to fail in a short term and vehicles do get that hot on hot days. So somethings can get heat damaged this way.
Who knows how common that is though and short term conditions aren't usually bad.

Another thing that may be happening is that you're over-tightening the cap.
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>>9178525
In which scale? Certainly their 1/72 is a complete bust for me because most of their tanks have even the TCs hatches moulded closed, and even in the cases when they aren't (the Shermans) they cock it up by making them much too big.

>>9179136
This. All those cold war Soviet things with frying pans for turrets look the same to me, but I've seethed at many a person who says 'a Sherman is a Sherman'.
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>>9179877
>In which scale?
I make 1/35 tanks or 1/72 planes, I don't mind closed TC hatches because I'm really not much of a diorama guy, but I understand.
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>>9179715
I had one come like that without ever having used it.
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Is panda the only 1/35 M8 AGS / XM8 on the market? Fuck, I don't want to build another panda model, those are horrible.
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My online hobby shop are such fucking shameless kike boomers.
>"Before price increase sale!"
>"15% off all Revell kits!"
Gee, thanks a lot. So not only do they want to increase prices (kit prices are already fucking crazy, what I build ten years ago now costs roughly double), they want to push their garbage on me.
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>>9180266
Depends on where you live I guess. I'm in a place where I get to see how much wholesalers charge for their kits here in northern europe and prices have definitely risen because of covid and brexit.
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I finished this over a month ago but was too lazy to post pics.. so here it is. Build lasted a total of 3 weeks.
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>>9180487
I also may have splurged out recently like a retard, was gone for a month and this is the aftermath..
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>>9180487
I don't know how people build so fast, I generally fuck around for at least a year.
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>>9180487
1/32 scale? That looks really professional.
>>9180492
Now show your stash.
I have a problem, I get a huge rush from buying new models even though there's no way I can get to building everything.
>>9180496
It's easy if you're a neet.
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>>9180500
My stash isn’t actually insanely large as some boomers, around 30 or so kits right now. It is though filled with pretty rare and expensive kits so I prefer quality over quantity, mostly Wingnut Wings kits. Don’t have all kits in one spot rn so I don’t wanna spam here.

Also thanks about the ki-45, it’s the ZM SWS 1/32 Ki-45. I’ll post another pic below, all painted with lacquers.
>>9180496
I’m in Uni atm so I guess also a neet? Anyway I get a decent amount of free time with it.
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>>9180492
>Wingnut Wings
I'm jealous. I can only imagine what those kits will go for in 5 years, nevermind 10
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I want to build the russian x-32 in 1/72 right the fuck now
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>>9180695
Enjoy scratch building then. But if some patience can be found it wouldn't surprise me if we get a Zvezda kit some time next year.
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>>9180686
I’m gonna build my first one in a week I think. Will share my progress here. Roland C.II
Better start cracking at the collection instead of just constantly consuming. Got 15 of them right now.
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>trying to build the modelkasten-style tracks of a Hobby Boss T-26
Eugh. I thought I was immune to this kind of pain by now.
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>>9181205
newfag here, yeah those tracks were abysmal. dunno if i ever mentioned it but I quite literally just completed the kit without the tracks. kinda lost interest in doing a good job though after that, because wtf is the point of putting in the energy on a tank if it wont have tracks?
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anyone ever tried mixing two metallic colors? can it be done? I'm thinking of mixing Tamiya X-11 and XF-56 (Chrome Silver and Metallic Grey) to get something in between the two, as the former is a little too bright and the latter too dark for what I want. there shouldn't be any problem unless I'm mixing a metallic with a pure matte color like flat red or something, right? using an airbrush btw
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>>9182123
Test it on a piece of scrap. I mix my metallics constantly but I use MRP lacquers. There is no reason yours shouldn’t work well mixed although Tamiya metallics are a bit shitty.
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>>9181266
fuck off troll
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>>9182206
>troll
I've been posting here for over seven months
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>>9182123
It might be easier to mix the metallic with a non metallic to get the color you want, I had success mixing a metallic silver plus brown and red to make a copper color
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>>9182123
I've often mixed vallejo metallics and it seems to work.
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Hasn't the sprut been in in service for like 15 years now? When can we expect 1/35 models?
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>>9182875
idk, it's been like 80 years since WW2 and we still only have one manufacturer making decent Panzer IIIs.
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>>9180532
I have a pretty boomer tier stash (full wardrobe basically) but most of my kits are obscure 72 scale stuff. I do have some more standard options, but I just like my great war/experimental early jet/test aircraft in braille scale.
Might put up some pics later, butt I've just started on my Revell Morane-Saulnier N. I am scratch building the cockpit since revell kits of the era had an oversized seat and nothing else, will post pics when I've built it up a bit.
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How do you go about hand-painting mr. color (gunze) paints? Just add leveling thinner? How much? I think I just fucked up with the thinner amount because it dug up the primer and it's not opaque enough so I can see the plastic while the paint's still in a thick layer.
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>>9183021
here's pic. Primer's in white and the grey's plastic that was exposed by the paint. please help
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>>9183021
>>9183043
More likely you fucked up by using a primer the thinner would react with, or didn't leave the primer to dry long enough.
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>>9183021
Generally speaking hand brushing makes whatever you thin the paint with a lot more aggressive to whatever is underneath, since you're slapping on a big glob of it and then mechanically rubbing it around instead of gently blowing on a fine mist of it (and letting a good percentage of the thinner evaporate en-route). I suspect lacquer thinner swill be really hard to get working in this context.
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I've been looking around but can only find images of models (which differ between painted and wooden, with no clear sense of what wood), does anybody know what propellers the French tended to use early in the war (1915ish)? Don't know whether to paint the kit propeller of my Morane-Saulnier or make a paper prop for the multiple layer wood effect.
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>>9182123
The other day I mixed XF-16 with whatever Tamiya's medium grey is and that worked OK for contrast. Obviously the metallic pigment is diluted but really my conclusion was just how gaudy and glittery the original XF-16 bits were in comparison.
>>9183021
I get that effect when I haven't stirred my paints properly. I've not found thinner to make it worse though.
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>>9183043
>>9183021
If Mr. Color paints are as similar to Tamiya acrylics as I think, you're a bit SOL. Tamiya Acrylics at least, when brush painted, have a very high chance of melting the bottom layers of paint.
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>>9183144
>>9183126
>>9183079
>>9183061
Thanks guys, thicker layers (less thinner) did the trick. Quite a lot of detail was lost and the up-close looks hideous, but overall it should be fine once I slap a matte coat on him and hide him behind a 1/72 canopy.
Maybe I should just buy a set of citadel paints for miniatures. They seem pretty expensive though.
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>>9182900
Which one, anon? I think about building decent Pz.3, don't know which manufacturer to choose.

Speaking on the topic though,
>Only ONE decent early T-34 (mod 1940-1941).
>Only one decent SU/ISU 152
And I'm not even talking about planes, be it 1:72 or 1:48 (Like for Mig-27 in 1:72 you have only Zvezda and Academy, both are utter shit not worthy of unpacking).

>>9182875
Just scratch-build it out of BMD and spare cannon from T tank series, lmao.
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>>9183226
Dragon is the only manufacturer that has a decent lineup of Panzer IIIs.
>>9183207
Consider Vallejo or Ammo By MiG acrylics if you can get your hands on those for brush painting.
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>>9183250
>Dragon is the only manufacturer that has a decent lineup of Panzer IIIs.

>Dragon is the only manufacturer of early T-34
Hmm, I see a strange pattern.
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>>9183360
Used to be that Dragon was the only manufacturer with a decent line up of Panzer IVs and Tigers too, but that's at least changed recently.
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>>9177039
swedish armor gets no love, ive been eyeing a trumpeter 1/72 strv 103 at my local hobby shop for a while, but from what ive seen it doesnt look liike a particularly good kit. I know IBG makes a 1/72 m/40 but thats not the same...
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>>9178289
what kit/conversion is this? im a sucker for the sav m/43
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Productive night by my standards, still need to do the walls for the other side but everything dry fits okay for the moment. Simple detail, but a step up from the kits "seat twice the size as the one I built sitting in a void."
Hopefully it looks decent painted up.
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>>9183404
Also, I'm never building stringers this way again (stretched sprue and micro cement over a balsa size template). It is awkward as fuck and doesn't even make the neatest result. In future I will go back to soldering them, I was just too lazy to set up my iron tonight.
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>>9183404
Pretty cool, what kit is that
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>>9173465

1/35 Timber Wolf Omnimech
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>>9183501
1/72 Morane-Saulnier N by Revell. If you like scratch building it is the kit for you, since it was a 1965 tool, and according to Scalemates was last released in 1989. Seems that my boxing was from 1977, the solid colour windscreen frame fell apart removing it from the sprue, but it looked nothing like any historical photos I can find so I am scratch building that area anyway. I recommend the kit for either a beginner who doesn't care about the inaccuracies, or a more experienced person who can fix some of them.
I'm not rivet counting (if I was I would be inserting shims all over the place) but it still takes some work to things like the spinner to make it resemble the actual aircraft.
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>>9183577
>>9183501
I would also say that if you can get past the inevitable issues of a kit of this age, it is one of the most accessible ways into 1/72 great war aviation. It isn't the MOST accessible kit (that would probably be something like the Airfix Eindecker) but it shares many traits with such a kit, being a monoplane (easier to rig and paint) with very simple undercarriage and rigging (90% of the problem with building small scale great war aircraft). If you don't want to go full autist you can just use the kit holes on the wings and then it is 4 wires and you are done (there are a few more to run in other places but it will look functional with the top and bottom wires only).
I really wish more people would build great war aircraft, it feels like a hobby that is dying out in recent years.
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>>9183594
I've been considering it, I love how the Albatross D.III or V looks. It's not even the double decker nature or rigging that's keeping me from it. Not even the prices of the kits (1/48 eduard biplanes are cheap as chips here) but my own laziness and obsession with building armour.
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>>9183605
Fair enough, I'd say go for it anon, the Eduard 1/48s are approachable and build up well (by my standards at least, you can probably tell from the current project that I am used to jank).
I was referring more to the general trend where it feels like every year we see less great war kits in the works, more are pulled from sale than brought into replace, all while the overall market grows in size. I guess that it is just moving too far out of the market's interest at this point, but I will be sad when the kit availability ends up being "Sopwith Camel, Fokker Dr.1, SPAD S.VII, one of the larger bombers like a Gotha or something, and a Zeppelin of some sort." At least Airfix did a couple of new tools a few years back, and some of the Eastern European brands occasionally get into the mood to do Great War (Eduard being the main one that comes to mind, although I think AZ Model did a new tool of something a while back).
I do think that great war suffers a lot for the death of vacform kits, as the fuselages were often simple enough that a vacform kit would actually make really nice 1/48 and 1/72 airframes, while being cheap enough to support obscure kit options in a financially viable way.
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>>9183623
Is the elephant in the room here Wingnut Wings scaring everyone else off?
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>>9183667
Wingnut Wings was awkward, in that they made legitimately amazing kits (you could buy a kit for the small history book which came with it alone) but it was always a passion project and was always doomed to finish up. Unfortunately people aren't going back to their quaint 72nd, 48th scale great war planes made of injection plastic now that they have had consumer market but enthusiast grade models in 32nd become "the norm" for new releases.
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Fucking finally, halfway there.
>>9183667
I don't think WnW was ever going to make WW1 plane modelling mainstream with their prices.
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>>9183380
>ive been eyeing a trumpeter 1/72 strv 103 at my local hobby shop for a while, but from what ive seen it doesnt look liike a particularly good kit
Not brilliant, but it's ok. And keep an eye on UM, they've made both SAV m/43 and Strv m/41 as part of their Pz38(t) lineup, so I'd say they're about as likely as IBG to cough up, say, a Strv m/42 or Strf 90. Of course, a Trumpyboss or IBG kit would be a lot easier to put together, but we take what we can get here (*cough*Gecko Heavy Industries*cough*).
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>>9183404
looking forward to seeing the result here
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>>9184039
Thank you anon, I will try and post pics as I go.
I think I am done for the night, it is 2am and I should probably sleep. Bad weather for some time to come so painting is going to be the bottle neck, but hopefully I can finish the cockpit (want to add something to the top of the stick, 2 gauges and I think the throttle on the right side stringers, and maybe the ammunition belt for the MG) and will try to sort out whether I want to add wires for the rudder and elevators as well. Anything in the cockpit, along with the brown sprue on the nose are scratch, the rest is kit.
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>>9184091
Also those pictures are a dry fit for now, the stringers are loose, as are the floor assembly, as is the top part. I will assemble properly after painting, but I am really paranoid about things not fitting when I try to button it up.
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>>9184091
Looks really good for scratch building. You could probably try to make a loop for the top of the stick.
Also since I started looking into it, that's like a vickers machine gun when a morane saulnier should have a hotchkiss?
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>>9184105
I have seen profiles claiming that some had Vickers (I know that Type I onwards had Vickers), the example I am painting was in Russian service and I know that the Russians had Vickers on hand so I was willing to work with the kit part. Of note is that the Russians had some type Is, so the platform is there for them.
I did deliberate over this, but I want to use kit parts wherever practical to pay proper homage to a kit of this vintage. That being said, certain parts (like the "windscreen", which was just a frame that snapped in the decades before I even came into possession of this box) are of a type so unseen in any photos I can find that I assume they were designed on the principle of "good enough, no kid has seen the real thing anyway." These instructions (and this is all of them, apart from the rigging diagrams) show how poor the kit's excuse for a cockpit, windscreen, and general level of detail happens to be. It should be a fun build, but a bit of work to bring it up to scratch.
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>>9184091
>2am
do you live in Australia?
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>>9184126
Ah yes, the "put a pilot in the cockpit to hide the lack of detail" school of model building. A classic.
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>>9184126
For the rest of the model, I need to model a new spinner (will either plunge or vacuum mould) and will probably replace the axle for the landing gear with some brass rod (the kit part is more flash than round). If I choose to run wires on the tailplane I will need to drill holes in the fuselage as well.
>>9184133
I do indeed, in my first post >>9183404 you can even see a cute echidna.
>>9184138
It is a noble school of model design, as at least it lets us have room to build a proper cockpit in the aircraft. I far prefer it to some other old kits that opt for the have a flat surface slightly below the hole in the cockpit for you to paint black" or the "just put a tiny box in for an illusion of depth" (the Academy Sopwith Camel is guilty of this) schools of thought, at least the old shit pilot cockpits have room to work with.
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Last update for the night, I checked the history page on the model instructions, it claims that the aircraft of Smirnoff that I am modeling had a Lewis gun. The bad news is that it isn't actually a Vickers gun and that annoys me. The good news is that at 1/72 scale I can modify the Vickers into as decent a representation of a Lewis as the Vickers currently is.
Going to be doing stuff with the 3d tomorrow night so modelling time will be limited, so I think that modifying the Vickers into a Lewis will be a good task for the limited time.
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>>9184157
Cool of them to acknowledge that the model is not really representative of the subject.
>>9184146
I would agree, but I tend to intentionally steer clear of really old kits like that because my autism would explode. I can't just leave stuff alone if I know better.
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>>9184163
That is fair, I am in a similar boat to some extent (hell, I've just acknowledged that I am changing the vickers to a lewis tomorrow night, or at least as best as I can with a 60 year old model kit's original part). I do find it funny that one side says it has a Lewis, then the instructions on the other side of the kit identify it as a Vickers.
What is funny is that every boxing of the kit since the original appears to portray Smirnoff's aircraft, with the exception of 2 reboxings which are of a French example. In the case of most French examples, the Hotchkiss would be accurate. A Vickers is accurate for an I model, or for a British example (I'm not sure what the Ukrainians used, probably Lewis or Vickers since they were obtained from Russian stock). This amuses me because it is quite possible that they have never made a decal sheet that matches the gun used in the kit, and as such have also never made the kit with a gun that matches the decals.
>People who complain about Eduard Spitfire propellers when they see kits like this for the first time
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Last update before bed, I will fill the tube I am using for the drum in the morning when I wake up. I think that this is a reasonable approximation for the scale, although I might improve the stock end later, for now I am happy with the barrel.
>I have to try to fit a windscreen behind the magazine after painting while avoiding snapping off that forward sight
Pray for me brothers.
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>>9184254
Go to sleep anon.
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>>9184265
Am I fucking up massively and can't see it through tiredness? Please help it is 3am and I couldn't let my work in progress model from the 60s have the wrong machine gun plshelp...
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>>9184269
The only real problem I can see is that front sight is not gonna look pretty when painted, it's very chunky. Otherwise it actually looks like a good Lewis gun as long as you fill in the magazine.
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>>9184291
I will point out that the front sight is narrower in real life (I think the stretched sprue for the barrel is about .5mm, and the sight is maybe 1/3 of that) than it looks on the photo. I will also say that trying to replicate the sight of a Lewis aircraft MG with the tall front sight using anything short of photo etch will always be a tradeoff. That being said, hopefully it is okay for middle of the night work, and I think it currently looks like a better Lewis than the kit Vickers (at least if I put the shovel handle on the back and a proper trigger when I wake up, and fill the magazine).
As long as it reads as a Lewis I call it a win over the kit part.
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>>9184304
Don't worry, it definitely looks a lot better than the kit part. Is the kit molded in metallic plastic?
Also is the pistol grip the wrong way around in the back
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>>9184311
The pistol grip is meant to be the sight (I think), which gives an idea of how good the kit part is.
I THINK the kit is meant to be moulded in dark grey plastic, but has a very uneven composition (poor mixture of the pigment into the plastic maybe). It doesn't look like a metallic flake to the eye, more like a weird sheen. I wouldn't be surprised either way, but it definitely needs a full prime and paint to normalise it out.
Of note is that one of the kit parts that looks the most "uniform" in its colour is THE FUCKING ENGINE, which would actually be convenient to be slightly metallic for little timmy building a kit from the shop.
I'm going to sleep now though, 3:30am is probably about my limit for tonight. Will finish the gun later today or over the weekend, and hope that better weather comes so that I can put some paint on the interior.
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>>9184319
Try not to burn to death in the bushfire.
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as with most things, it looks better irl.
glued the fuselage together last night, filled in some gaps with putty and did lots of sanding. will start working on wing struts and the landing gear now, cleaning them up in anticipation for assembly.
wasn't terribly pleased with the look of the seat belt decals, but I'd never done them before, so experience is experience I suppose. next time I think I'll try out some photo etch stuff and see how that works.
>>
>>9184334
>>9184331
That's not looking bad at all. Could do with a sharper picture but fucked if I know how to take one.
>>
>>9183727
Their prices were pretty good and only reason they went out of business is because poor choices of making massive aircraft that not a lot of people would buy but would be extremely expensive to tool. Peter Jackson made choice of what aircraft he wanted and they made it. They never made the company to produce profit.
>>
>>9184374
honestly a shame they never did French aircraft or 48 scale kits. I've really wanted that early model Spad XIII with Guynemer's livery, but that Eduard kit is basically impossible to find. I'm just hoping they re-release it sometime soon
>>
>>9184374
>Their prices were pretty good
Maybe this is because I don't build 1/32 scale planes but their prices were outrageous to me.
>>
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Painted up. Thought I'd go for the Swedish late war-cold war solid green for once. Pre-shading was done, but as usual Tamiya's olive greens wouldn't have any of that despite generous thinning. A bit of post-shading was done instead, but I guess oils will have to do the heavy lifting here.
>>
>>9184437
If you actually saw just the instruction manual itself not to mention the engineering and detail of the plastic, you would not be saying that.
You're just poor.
>>
>>9184820
>You're just poor
aren't you that asshole who was sperging a few months back about how different modelers use different methods to create rust effects?
>>
>>9180496
idk man I work full time in IT and I build on average 1-2 kits a week depending on what scale and if its a plane or not. If its a plane probably 1 every week and a half since I have to autistically buy 3rd party cockpit/engine nozzle stuff.
>>
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>>9185787
>full time in IT
>1-2 kits a week
holy fucking shit, I need to step my game up. I work in education so I have the summer months off and I've only completed that Spitfire so far lmfao
>>
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>>9183207
Just buy some vallejo (or MSP if they have them), that's what I use for my 1/72 pilots and I paint tons of them.

And buy a spray primer too if you plan on painting a lot of 1/72 figures. Its important your primer coat be as thin as possible to avoid losing detail.

Citadel paints aren't bad but the bottle suck ass, they will dry out over time no matter what you do. And you mentioned they are pricey. The only thing I'd bother spending money on of theirs is their Chaos Black Primer spray that shit is fucking god tier, perfectly thin coats every fucking time with it.

t. Paints tons of 1/72 figures.
>>
>>9184437
I dunno who the fuck buys 1/32 planes to begin with, I fucking hate this trend of making stupid huge fucking planes. I get the feeling kits like that are catered to people who impulse buy stuff for their stash but will never actually build them. I already struggle just finding room for 1/48 shit.
>>
Afternoon lads, spent the morning working a little on the Lewis, before turning my attention to the spinner. The kit spinner is both too pointy and lacking in diameter, so I cracked out the vacform machine to add about 1mm of diameter to it in a uniform manner.
Considering I haven't vacformed in years I think it has come out alright, I just need to sand down the tip of the spinner a bitfor that more snub "bullet" nose.
>>
>all these 3rd party kits of Sagger missile
>Not a single one includes operator figures
I don't understand. What's the fucking point?
>>
>>9185787
Do you "work" from home?
>>
1/32 stratolaunch
>>
>>9185852
I would agree but then I would probably only buy 1/35 scale planes if anyone made them, I'm that much of a scale autist.
>>
>airfix finally shipping out Vulcans
>no sign of my preorder shipping
WHERE IS IT AIRFIX AAAAAAAAAAH
>>
>>9185835
It's impressive how well you painted that 1/72 face.
[spoiler]cool eyeliner tho[/spoiler]
>>
>>9186441
When you crew a T-series tank it affects your view on the world. May cause nihilism, newfound love for My Chemical Romance and excessive use of eyeliner.
>>
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Cool box, IBG
>>
>>9186586
Ha-Go is cute! CUTE!
>>
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>>9185852
It doesn't seem like all that an unreasonable scale if you're going to focus on WW1 fighters. The Lancaster may have been a bit of a shark jump though...


>>9186356
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/border-model-bf-001-messerschmitt-bf-109g-6--1324228

>>9186586
Yep, they have their box and they're gonna stick to it.
>>
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>>9186703
I was thinking about grabbing one in 35th scale but every kit I found cost like $70
>>
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one foxbat primed and I probably need to get a mask if I want to avoid painting my lungs gray
>>
>>9186965
Dunno 'bout shipping to wherever you live, but: https://www.hlj.com/1-35-scale-ija-type-95-light-tank-ha-go-early-malayan-campaign-fnmfm-58
>>
>>9187085
Primers are usually lacquers so painting your lungs is the least of your concerns
>>
>>9187109
Ha, I've been airbrushing tamiya paints for at least five years now and I've never worn a mask and I've only lost half of my lung capacity and developed ADD.
>>
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>>9187104
oh nice. I swore off on buying any new kits for the foreseeable future but maybe I'll grab it once I go back to work in the fall. thanks
>>
>>9187109
vallejo primer for airbrushes is acrylic. Still when my nostril hair was completely gray after a 3 hour session I got a bit worried
>>
The guy who invented "plastic workable tracks" should be executed for crimes against humanity.
And why the fuck hasn't anyone invented plastic track links that you could build with wire like friuls?
>>
>>9188163
I'm not sure metal wire wouldn't grind the holes open in the softer plastic links by the time you've assembled it.
>>
>>9186705
>>9186586
Are those any fun to build? I checked the box for IBG's 1/72 Bren Carrier and it didn't really convince me.
>>9185988
That's pretty cool, although vacuforming makes me gag ever since I built my first Miniart building.
>>
>>9188290
Between the Strv m/38 and Crusader Mk.1 I'd say things fit together pretty well and the level of detail is also quite ok for their size. What you find fun is harder for me to say anything about.
>>
Has anyone here ever thought about taking a Lady Lex model, and converting it into the very battlecruiser it could have been?
>>
>>9188535
I was just thinking about this the other day. I think there's one Lexington BC model in 700 floating around out there somewhere made by some very small company in limited numbers quite a while back. dunno about 350
>>
>>9188590
Depending on the assembly of a CV-2 Lexington, there is potential for a CC-1 parts variation. Not sure if there is enough of a market for that.
>>
>>9188831
They just made a whole kit.
https://www.hlj.com/1-700-scale-us-navy-battlecruiser-uss-lexington-cc-1-1921-craftman-kit-ihp270001
http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/ships/cb/cc-1/700-ihp-mq/Building_the_lexington.htm
>>
Is this an okay brush?
>https://www.amazon.ca/Badger-Air-Brush-Patriot-Gravity-Airbrush/dp/B002W84GTO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=airbrush&qid=1627106056&refinements=p_36%3A12035763011&rnid=12035759011&s=kitchen&sr=1-3
>>
>>9189427
Yes it is. It has worked like a charm for me for the last 8 or so years even when i´ve been abusing it to hell and back. Lately I´ve been kinda wanting to invest at Badger Sotar 2020
https://www.amazon.com/Badger-Air-Brush-Co-2020-2F-Airbrush/dp/B000BROVIO
but then I realize I dont really need it yet since Patriot works just so damn fine.
>>
>>9188335
I hate overly complicated builds and fragile parts. There's some amount of fiddling I can tolerate, obviously, but Miniart's newer kits for example still gives me nightmares. Also I've noticed with IBG's TKS that they sometimes like to use sprue gates that are way too chunky.
>>
Can someone recommend me a 1/35 T-64 / 72 / 80 / 90 with interior? I don't particularly mind which one, I just want to build and show one of them carousel autoloaders.
>>
>>9189765
Only one I can even think of is the Amusing Hobby T-72, but it's also probably a pretty good kit.
>>
>>9189765
Amusing Hobby T-72M1 is probably the only one with interior in these series.
>>
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>>9189768
>>9189867
alright, looks like a fine set, thanks boys
>>
>>9166314
>Just finished these 1/72 scale IS-2s. It's nice that there's always 2 kits in a box from S-model.
good if you wanna create a variation or you're plain forgetful and lose parts.
>>
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>>9172055
i see my escort at a hotel then go to my local hobby shop nearby since it's really close by. it's not cheaper buying locally but it is convenient.
>>
>>9190037
>i see my escort at a hotel
a-anon?...
>>
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>>9190037
>>
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The kid at the hobby store said Alclad is out of business. Its not true, is it?
>>
if anyone's worked with those Eduard lozenge decals for WWI biplanes, can you tell me if paint from underneath will show through? Id assume they're opaque enough, but I'm doing some complex (for me) masking for the ventral paint on my Pfalz and am a little worried that some of the paint underneath may look a bit shit.
>>
>>9190807
if it was then I'd hear boomers squealing about it on facebook. Anyway you got better alternatives out there than their metallic paint assuming thats what you use from them.
>>
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Finished this last night, pretty "meh" build for me but it was a commission.
>>
>>9191299
>commission
always been curious about this. would you mind telling me how much you got paid, and the cost of the kit+aftermarket+any scratch building you did?
>>
Why do American bombs have such rough surface?

Is it really this rough of a casting?
>>
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>>9191141
anyway did some masking. Was going to paint but my dad is being his typical boomer self so I won't be able to do some stuff until later tonight or tomorrow.
>>
>>9191284
I was told Alclad was the best for shiny metal finishes. Was I lied to?
>>
>>9191308
I got paid $150 for the labour of that thing. kit itself was $45, no aftermarket here or scratch building. I do a shiton of commissions and I can tell you that its probably not worth doing as a whole because it sucks the enjoyment in many ways of it.
About that.. some guy wants a fucking 1/24 Mosquito, time to jump off the roof :)
>>
>>9191376
Well its definitely a decent option but its relatively fragile. Options that are better are MRP, Mr color or even the new tamiya lacquer line. Plane here below was painted with mrp and it allows a lot more freedom with working with it while also being durable.
>>
>>9191321
The navy coats their bombs in a fire-resistant material because burning carriers are a bad enough place without ordnance cooking off. USAF bombs are smooth.
>>
>>9191393
>I do a shiton of commissions and I can tell you that its probably not worth doing as a whole because it sucks the enjoyment in many ways of it.
yeah,I've heard this from many things I've read online. tricky thing is you can't really just do it once in a while, you need to build up a reputation and such.
it may just be better to make a model and then put it up for sale somewhere (online or irl), rather than doing commissions. may not sell as well or quickly, but you can still make some money without ruining the hobby for yourself.
>>
>>9191427
>The navy coats their bombs in a fire-resistant material
interesting. is that a direct consequence of the Forrestal/Oriskany fires?
>>
>>9191434
true, it does drain me a bit but if I am making something for myself I'd rather keep it. While they can often be annoying I like that aspect of having to do a variety of things even if its outside of my direct interest. This temple thing is an example of that, was a fun build. Its definitely interesting working with different people and making something exactly to their specifications. I even started sculpting stuff for people.
>>
>>9191437
Dunno, but it certainly seems likely.
>>
I'm thinking about maybe getting into doing scale firearms -- rifles, machine guns, etc. what's the most common scale for this? 35?
>>
>>9191405
>>9191376
To add to this, Alclad is traditionally seen as the best for "smooth" metal finishes (as it doesn't have the flake properties of most metals) and at this point the remaining niche it filled generally was painted chrome finishes. However, for painted chrome you can get a better finish by either rub and buffing, or foiling.
>Foiling is going to largely die with the few boomers who had the dedication to do it, as it was a technique that even fellow boomers thought was "too much work"
>>
>>9189883
I've got two of these kits and they are very good both with details and instructions.
>>
does anyone have experience with panda express, more specifically their BMD-1 and 2 kits? Seems to be the most recent toolings for those vehicles
>>
I don't have an inkjet printer and the decal I want is white. Can I use sticker? Maybe I can stick it after wash. But it's going to look jarring fuck me.
>>
>>9192890
If it is a simple shape, you can make a stencil
>>
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I'm calling it done here. Skipping the dusting because I don't really feel like what I could get out of it would be worth the bother of further messing with things.
>>
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Piecemeal painting is biggest drag for me. Feel like I'm getting nothing done and start gettin burnt on the kit. Doesn't help when the red needs multiple coats because even the littlest black showing through the preshading won't cover
>>
>>9192958
ah but it isn't unfortunately. Also it's in 1/72 so it's fuck tiny.
>>
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Im just going to leave this here.
>>
>>9194303
lmao
>>
so I did as someone here suggested and specifically got Vallejo's airbrush thinner to use to help thin their model color paints for airbrush use. but I'm still getting the same fucking issue where it fucking curdles as soon as it gets in the pot. no manner of mixing or thinner or higher PSI will solve this issue.
it's annoying, too, because the color of the paint is perfect for what I want, but it's coming out very grainy. I'm at my wit's end. can someone suggest anything?
>>
>>9192890

Yes you can. But you still need two more ingredients: 2-part water soluble paper, and clear acrylic paint/aerosol can of clear acrylic.

The paper is easy to find online, the clear coat will protect the ink when dipped in water.
>>
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Whatever happened to these doods? Seemed like 6 or so years ago they were the top dogs in scale model military vehicles, pumping out tons of kits that were popular, and then suddenly they seem to have mostly disappeared? They still push out a few kits each year but it's just retreads of shit we've already seen, have they just run out of wehraboo vehicle variants to model?

It's just strange because they were at one time one of the most innovative companies with their smart kits, which for their time were top quality considering you got link and length tracks, metal barrels, a bit of photo etch for a solid price. Then they started producing really detailed ship kits and them suddenly stopped doing that, made a few 1/32 plane kits that were great then stopped, and now companies like Takom seem to have just completely overtaken their specialty in german vehicles and other paper panzer concepts.
>>
>>9180487
>>9193006
>>9191405
>>9191299

Some nice looking kits ITT not getting enough respect so here's your (you)s
>>
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Approximately how many kits will I have to make to have them start looking like this
>>
>>9194447
Drop of flow improver? (if you can't get it then try dish soap).
>>
>mr.color for airbrushing
>vallejo for painting
Am I correct? I want to make sure before I start expanding my collection.
I really like Vallejo-type bottles, but from what I've heard mr.color is just straight up better for airbrushing?
>>
>>9195516
I certainly wouldn't try doing the opposite! Vallejo seem to be a bit hit and miss for Airbrushing. Some people get along with it fine, others can't get it to work whatever they try. Works fine with a hair brush though.

I've only tried putting Ammo, Mr.Color and AK Real Colours through my airbrush - I found the AK was the most rookie-airbrusher friendly, but Mr.Color was very close behind.
>>
>>9195258
Innovative and quality don't always mean profitable. Or perhaps some key people were replaced. There's been some faint signs of life over on the 1/72 armour side for them, but to what degree that goes from announcement to release remains to be seen.

>>9195516
I prefer Tamiya and Mr Paint for airbrushing. I've done some work with Aqueous Mr Color and it gets the job done, but I haven't quite gotten the hang of them yet.
>>
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Just finished Trumpeter's 1/144 scale F-86. I lost the front canopy piece so I sculpted a tarp to hide the gap. Bottle of cement for scale
>>
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>>9195576
>>
My paint's almost dried up (still sticky); do I just pour thinner in and stir?
>>
>>9195727
Worth a try. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.
>>
https://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/10019551

I picked up one of these from a local hobby store for 30AUD and apparently nips see trying to sell this kit for over $150 on ebay

Did I find the holy grail or are nips just trying to scalp whitey
>>
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Honestly really ridiculous that I can't find any of Richthofen's triplane decals in 48 scale. maybe I can cannibalize some stuff from the other kits I have, but it'll bother me that it probably won't be 100% accurate.
>>
>>9179715
either it was defective or you tightened it too hard.
>>
>>9195354
A fucking lot, better get started. Although I will say that you should be consciously practicing and trying to get better at modeling, i.e. pushing yourself to try new skills or practice old ones, rather than just chugging along and building. You'll get stuck in an endless loop of mediocrity if you do that.
>>
>>9195516
Generally the stinkier the paint, the better it sprays. Water or alcohol based acrylics (AK 3rd gen, Vallejo, Hataka Red or Blue) are going to generally spray poorly, mineral spirit based enamels (Testors) are going to be pretty good, and lacquers (Tamiya, Mr. Color, AK Real Colors, Hataka Orange) are going to be excellent. Make sure you wear your respirator!

>>9195576
>>9195580
Tarp was a good idea for covering up the missing piece, but the plane is extremely over-weathered. No Sabre would ever look like that, and whatever metallic paint you're using seems to be pretty mediocre. Your building skills seem to be decent, though, as I don't see any obvious seams or gaps. Are you normally an armor modeler?
>>
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>>9197480
Yes I usually build armor. The paint looks like shit because I was too lazy to airbrush so I just brush painted with some Vallejo silver. I sloppily applied a black wash over the entire plane but didn't wipe off all of the excess which is probably why it looks over weathered. I honestly didn't put much effort into it because I just wanted to get it done quickly.
>>
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I want to build these helicopters from Warzone game.

The intro has you jumping off them. Does anyone know the name of the helicopter?
>>
Should I buy and build a Tamiya Somua S35 or Italeri Semovente M42 75/18
>>9198280
They look an awful lot like an armed variant of the Mi-8 Helicopter.
>>
I'm looking for some affordable (<35€ / 41$) ship, sailing ship, submarine, boat or viking longships of sufficient quality and 1/350 scale. no specific tastes, anything will do.
Any recommendations?
>>
>>9198562
Go to webshop, filter by scale, sort by price, check reviews for what seems interesting?
>>
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Assembling UM's 1/72 Strv m/41 while I still remeber how their LT vz.38 hull goes together. Less misery with the superstructure compared to the SAV m/43 here, though the turret took a bit of work to get together.
>>
>>9196522
You could buy this?
>>
>>9198562
Zvezda might have something.
>>
>Tamiya HMS Repulse in 1/700 is selling for $50 at preferred online shop
>Trumpeter kit of the same ship in the same scale is selling for literally half that
>neither kit has PE
is Trumpeter's kit really that bad?
>>9198641
I've tried, anon. can't find it anywhere, not even on ebay. I'm just hoping they re-release it in the next few months, especially because all their pre-warehouse fire shit is getting increasingly hard to find.
>>
>>9198893
The HMS Repulse is early Trumpeter (Pre-2010s) so it probably has softer and somewhat less detail than the Tamiya one.
>>
>>9198918
they're both like a year apart, though. I mean, I imagine Tamiya's fit is better and the detail is superior, but can Trumpeter's really be that bad?
>>
>>9198926
You can probably build it and enjoy it depending on your individual level of autism. It's probably a steal if it's half price compared to Tamiya.
>>
>>9198940
yeah I guess you're right. I already own a bunch of expensive kits anyway. and the aftermarket stuff (AA guns, railings, etc) will eventually probably bring it up to $50 or more anyway.
>>
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Anybody seen any attempts at replicating Babcock's experiemental digitcal camo scheme on a Challenger kit yet?
>>
What would you do if you had a shock collar on limiting you to twenty minutes of hobby time a day? The moment it hits twenty you tools down or get tased. What kits would you build and what level of painting would you do? What short cuts would you take?
>>
>>9199370
I don't think I'd take any shortcuts. if anything I'd get more done, instead of sitting around staring at a model for 6 out of 7 days of the week, then working on it on the 7th day for an hour or two.
>>
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Some camo, because if you're rolling around in a license built 38(t) in 1942 being seen probably ain't on your wish list. Going for the mid-war four colour camo scheme this time.
>>
>>9197799
I thought that might be the case, as your build skills seem reasonable, showing that you're not a total noob, but the heavy weathering and the skills with sculpting and painting a tarp are hallmarks of an armor modeler.
>>
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Got the gloss black on the F-84, will do metallics tomorrow. The colors are already on and masked over, so with some luck all the paint will be done tomorrow morning and I can do the gear bays and decals as well.
>>
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varnished the wood/silver effects on the upper wing of the Pfalz. decided to put on the lozenge decals on the elevators as practice, as I don't want to disturb the varnish on the wing while it dries tonight.
fucked it up honestly, but I dont think it'll be... terribly noticeable? once it's done. annoying, since I thought I'd gotten past the decal hurdle.
>>
>>9198280
Here you go my man:
https://www.scalemates.com/kits/zvezda-7253-mi-8mt-mi-17-hip-h--1168536

If you live in the US its in stock here;
https://www.megahobby.com/products/russian-mi-8mt-hip-h-assault-helicopter-1-72-zvezda.html
The box is different but its the same shit.
>>
How do I fix this? I put Tamika masking tape but the paint bled (I airbrushed thin coats)

:( 30 quid down the drain
>>
>>9200749
Mask the black and paint red over it if you can get the exact shade of red
Alternatively, extend your shade of red over the whole front and try to blend it into the side as if you're doing color modulation
>>
>>9200768
>>9200749
I can't see terribly well, but if the whole part was originally red then you can just use whatever shade of red you want. Just put two strips of masking tape down the center of your black lines and try not to fuck it up again
>>
>>9200749
Buy a bottle of paint remover.
>>
>>9200749
Did you push down the edges?
>>
Do a lot of you guys build car models? I sometimes wanna but I never can get a decent paint finish.
>>
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>>9200918
I think there's like, 3 car people here among all the tank fags.
>>
>>9200972
I'm a tankfag and I'm slightly sometimes interested in 50s to 70s cars, none of that gay modern shit for me.
>>
>>9200974
ok boomer
>>
>>9200975
I wish, I'm just really depressed.
>>
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I just built my first ever cockpit, it's a 1/72 N1K2-J one. Everything aside from the chair and stick are scratch built. 95% will be covered by pilot, walls and canopy.
Please tell me what I can do to make it look better next time.
>>
>>9201178
That green looks like sandpaper, dunno if it's doing that on its own or if it's a primer underneath but that's definitely the biggest issue.
>>
>>9201194
I suspect it has something to do with me spraying the primer too far from the model so that it partially dried before it could properly settle; the same texture did not exist in my cockpit sides, which I sprayed much closer.
I did try to go over it with leveling thinner after the fact, but I think it was too little too late.
>>
>>9200972
I would do cars more often but there are rarely subjects that interest me available for sale at a price I am willing to take, and they are normally in larger scales like 1/24 or 1/28 which isn't so much my thing.
I like cars, but I'm not that big on car models.
>>
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Does anyone have pictures on how these actually go over the body? I'm going to make one of these with masking tape.
>>
>>9201271
Like any other four point seat belt I'd imagine.
>>
>>9201422
Unfortunately those aren't four point seat belts, there's three "lap" belts and only one part that clearly goes over your shoulder.
...Actually I guess that would mean they might just be like normal car seat belts.
>>
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Found some OLD MaK models, pic related, safs and a fireball that needs real tlc rehab. Should i put them together or just leave be?
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>>9201570
Why not build them?
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>>9201570
Build them, I actually started my first Ma.K model a couple of days ago. First head in 2 years as well. They are somewhat interesting.
>>
>>9201572
Idk, theyve been sitting still for over 15 years, got them in college. Guess im just nervous.
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>>9201587
Looks great! I think ill strip my fireball and go with it first, hope it goes well.
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I though painting burgershit would be easy, but none of this makes any fucking sense. Gunze FS colors barely match up to the original, and the specific BuNo plane I want to build almost every paint schematic describes different FS colors so use, sometimes completely contradictory to reality, for the same fucking year.


Also notice how Mr. Color 307 and Aqueous Hobby Color 307 look very much different, despite both being supposedly FS36320.
>>
>>9201827
And both are not matching the FS36320 on www.federalstandardcolor.com, lmao
The left one looks a bit closer, the right one 307 is more in the bluish colors.

After all you can always apply filter, anon.
I ruined my german panzer grey by airbrushing H401 (it is just dark grey) but the bluish filter made it "true" Pz.Grey.
>>
>>9201827
How about just painting with a shade that pleases you the most? Or just mix it up yourself.
Shade autism at scale barely matters with all the filters and effects you are going to use anyways, as long as the color is somewhere close enough.
>>
looking to build my first ever Tank as a birthday treat

I am thinking one of the sherman but can't decide which model version:

1/35 Tamiya M4A3 Sherman
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pxtyuMBz4Io

or

1/48 1/ Tamiya M4A3 Sherman
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JN-EI0TgoBE

or

1/35 TAMIYA M4A3E8 Korean war
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZyWmQrT0Nk
>>
>>9201944
Go for the 1/35 scale ones. If you've built model kits before, go for the Korean war one. It's more detailed and has more parts, being a more modern tool, plus honestly, it just looks cooler than the WW2 bog-standard M4A3.
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>>9201827
Sounds about right based on me trying to do the "Agean ghost" scheme with Aqueous Mr Hobby that were supposed to match the FS numbers. I think I left tone of three as it was, the one supposed to draw to blue got an overspray of Mr Paint's AMT-7, and I think I mixed the third one with a good amount of something else.

>>9201944
For armour 1/35 is a much bigger thing than 1/48, so if you want to stick to one scale for your ground vehicles that'll tend to work out better. (Of course, it'll also make it damn near impossible to build aircraft in the same scale, 1/48 and 1/72 rule there. Win some, loose some.)
>>
Does anyone have any tips for doing wing decals that cover the entire surface of the wing/stabilizer? I always seem to have trouble getting the decals to latch on to the edge of the wing (no matter how much Micro Set I apply).
>>
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>>9201900
>>9201942
Problem is 36320 is actually supposed to be a bit darker than 36375, but still lighter than 36375. The differences on the real, weathered aircraft are supposed to be so subtle you won't see it till it's pointed out.
>>
>>9202260
Also now I'm reading contradictory information that it's actually Gunze 308/FS36375 that's too dark. It's madness.
>>
Fuck it I'll just order the Hataka set. I barely have time to actually build nowadays, I won't be hung up on trying to figure out bullshit paint shades.
>>
>>9202260
>>9202269
Forget about it anon.

Scale effect (the smaller the plane, the lighter it must be for realistic look due to different way sunlight works on small and large objects vs lamp light)
+ Lamp temperature (warm or cold light will change the tone on the display anyway)
+ How your monitor is calibrated


Makes any attempt to pursue the CORRECT colour absolutely useless.
>>
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some time ago I came across a youtube video that showed how to scratchbuild canvas rolls that serve as covers for tank destroyers, cars ecc.
the guy mixed green paint with glue (perhaps he also added a third ingredient?), laid down a thin layer and when dry he picked it up, he twisted it to create many creases and then used pieces of masking tape to make straps.
do someone know the video I'm talking about? I need to replace a damaged piece but I don't have any putty.
>>
>>9202387
It's more about having the three colors relate to each other as on the real thing. If you look at pic >>9202260 the late F-14 has three grays, all very close to each other: top is a darker gray, side of the nose is a lighter one, and the intakes/engine nacelles and the bottom (including the Phoenix palettes) are a third, slightly lighter gray, so slightly that you probably wouldn't notice if I haven't pointed it out just now.
>>
Any good model kit lines for realistic sci-fi models? Not after anything licensed though.
>>
>>9202383
DON'T buy Hataka red line stuff, their coverage properties are awful. It took me 8 layers to get an opaque layer of gunship gray, something that normally goes down in one layer.
>>
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I'm building a Tu-22m3. I got a resin kit to fix the awfully barebones cockpit that it comes with stock. I also used some very very excellent ASK models pilots for the front compartment. I used random pilots i had for the rear compartment since it is barely visible once built so I didn't want to waste my good resin pilot kits on it. I had to sand and modify the front cockpit a little bit as the resin kit sits too fucking high in the tub otherwise, to the point where the front dash leaves only a small crack for the pilots to see over.

I had to scratch build an extension for the front dash because otherwise it leaves a huge gap on either side. I'm really not sure what the design decision was here as the kit stock cockpit also has the same issue. Can't really find if its supposed to be like this because finding a reference shot of that front dash area from above on the cockpit is impossible.

Gonna paint the top panels today and then glue and sand the two halves together. Waiting on scribing tool to come in since Trumpeter fucked up and some of the panel lines are shallow to the point where they're disappearing.
>>
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>>9202554
The bombadier/navigator stations in particular are excellent on this resin kit.
>>
>>9202554
>>9202566
Is that 1/72? It's very nice looking.
>>
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>never made a Combrig kit before
>never made a resin kit before
what the fuck am I in for bros?
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>>9202647
Yeah it's 1/72
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>>9202408

I only know of this one anon. (Around 5:44)
https://youtu.be/Vvh3CzZR4_4
>>
>>9203082
Not the same video but indeed the same technique.
Thanks, I'll try it and post the results for future reference.
>>
New bread

>>9203212

>>9203212

>>9203212

>>9203212
>>
>>9202554
>>9202566
Looking good.

>>9202681
Combrig's usually relatively good shit, so a good place to start with resin I'd say.
It's more brittle than the plastic used in injection moulding, so be careful when removing things from the casting blocks. Small saws can be useful in some cases (there are photoetched ones around, also very useful for panel lines).
Sometimes there might be small air bubbles that have reached the surface in visible spots, look over the parts and fill them in if necessary.
Paint guide and instructions will likely be rather minimal.
>>
>>9203217
yeah I've checked the instructions on hobbysearch and elsewhere, the instructions look very simple, and with these ships there usually isn't even a paint guide at all. Guess I'll use other finished models, shipbucket, and some other sources if I can find em.
as for the resin tips, thanks, I'll probably need it lmao. as far as modeling goes, pre-dreadnoughts in 700 are rather low on the rung in terms of demand, so I wouldn't be surprised if the kit was a little dodgy in a few places.



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