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This ends in on 11/24.

==NON-BIPEDAL GROUPBUILD==

Build a mecha that does NOT have two legs! This can range from
>A mech with treads or wheels for mobility (ie: Guntank, Hildolfr)
>A mech with no legs that hovers/floats/flies (ie: Zeong, Blodia Riot)
>A walker with 4 legs (ie: AT-AT, BuCUE)
>An arachnid-like mech (ie: Death Stinger, that spider walker from Wild Wild West)
Note that your build MUST be a mech/robot - Just a straight up tank or space ship won't cut it here. Basically, what's allowed boils down to is:
>Zaku II: Not allowed
>Magella Attack Tank: Not allowed
>Zaku Tank: Allowed

Submit your entries to gunplaplamo@gmail.com , include at least 5 finished pics and any WIP pics you took while working on your entry, as well as a brief description of your build.

START: 8/12/23
END: 11/24/23

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There was a discussion on /m/ some weeks back that putting water through your airbrush to clean it between paint changes was a bad idea since it could cause the paint to spider or bubble (I forget which one exactly). So is this video wrong in telling you to use water to help clean the paint?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYpUR6q48vM
(begins at around the 4:04 mark)

Additionally, I've seen a few videos that give recipes for homemade acrylic thinner and airbrush cleaner, they're all variations to some degree or other on this formula (ingredients in description). Has anyone tried either of these and can vouch for them?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wYpUR6q48vM

I'm finally getting ready to order paints for my airbrush in the next day or so (going with Gaianotes for lacquer and Vallejo for acrylic), and I want to make sure that I fuck up as little as possible. Also, knowing whether or not those two homemade concoctions in the second video work will let me order them ahead of time and get less assfucked by shipping costs.

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>>10742952
Just go to your local hardware and get a jug of lacquer thinner. It would clean anything and you won't have to worry about "recipies" or "concoctions".

>>10743029
Already have bought a can last month, but that shit scares me because I don't know if it'll damage any of the airbrush's components like the rubber seals (I once dropped a piece of Gunpla into some by accident over a decade ago, and it melted the surface down in literal seconds). I'm not taking chances on a $150 piece of equipment.

>>10742947
You will die alone and unhappy.

>>10742952
that's actually right because water doesn't mix well with lacquer or enamel. the lacquer thinner from the hardware store usually does the job, but Tamiya's airbrush cleaner is also a very good one (it also doubles as an extra thin cement)

>>10743052
that's the exact fucking solvent that's in any of the lacquer paints you spray. paints are mostly just thinner and pigments.
if you can spray paint without breaking the airbrush you can spray thinner

>>10742952
>>10743098
also, the reason the youtube guy is fine using water to clean is because he's painting with ACRYLIC paints, and most acrylics can be thinned with plain water.
you clean with a thinner that matches your paints. if you use enamels you'd need an enamel thinner.

>>10743052
>$150 piece of equipment
That is why you paid $150 and not $20 for your airbrush, so you can have solvent resistant teflon needle packing seals and not rubber ones. Now relax and next time read your equipment manuals.

>>10743100
>if you use enamels you'd need an enamel thinner.
No you don't. Hardware store industrial lacquer thinner blows away everything just fine, enamel included.

>>10743115
but for enamels you want hardware store white spirits. which is enamel thinner

>>10743121
No, you don't. I mean, nothing stops you from using it if you really want to, but lacquer thinner cleans enamel just fine (the opposite is not true however).

>>10742947
Is this mechagaykotsu posting this?

>>10743129
Wtf why was that up for like 7 hours

>>10743261
jannies needed to finish fapping to it first

>>10742952
skip the water-based-acrylic entirely for airbrushing since it'll give you more problems than it's worth(nothing)

>>10743129
>>10743261
what was it?

Anyone have recommendations for scale human figures for making dioramas? I'm having a hell of a time finding any that aren't sold out

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>>10744083
Lots of free ones on Cults3D and on Telegram, for example: https://cults3d.com/en/users/FIGUZO/3d-models.

I have to ask, whenever someone says x or y weathering (like scratches and or rust) are out of scale what do they mean? On a 144 scale MS what would "in scale"? I'm asking because I haven't touch what I'm working on for a month since Im stuck at figuring out the weathering.

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>>10744205
>are out of scale what do they mean
They mean the "weathering" (or "battle damage") looks unrealistically large or overemphasized.

>On a 144 scale MS what would "in scale"
Imagine an actual 20m+ tall mech, imagine how overwhelmingly freaking large it actually is.

Now imagine the distance at which you have to be for it to look like a small toy on your desk.

Now think how much dirt, scratches, bullet holes, scrapes, chips, rust spots etc etc you will actually see on that mech from that distance. That would be the "in scale" weathering.

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>>10744083
N scale train model shit for 1/144 scale. 1/100 I have no clue for.

>>10744265
Sounds perfect for something I have in mind. I know Bandai themselves sells 1/100 scale vehicles and people but they're sold out everywhere

>>10743846
Literal homosexual acts.

>>10742848
Are Aoshima plamo's any good? I want an Airwolf

>>10743088
>>10743098
>>10743100
>>10743114
>>10743617
All right, thanks for all the helpful information. So I guess I'll be good with the can of lacquer thinner, just use that in place of water when I'm changing lacquer paints.

>>10742848
What is some good and cheap camera for taking gunpla pic?

>>10744205
>>10744236
Yeah, basically you've got to think like "this chip of rust I put on the knee is ten fucking feet wide in reality." Things just don't wear like that in real life.

You should be looking at real-life reference pics of tanks, planes, etc. then trying to adapt those to your kit in appropriate scale. Look up some tutorials too, there are a lot of very skilled models on YouTube.

Fucking chink bootleg kit make my fingers FUCKING HURT LIKE HELL FUCKING DAMMIT

>>10744969
*modelers

Also forgot to mention, think about how and why areas wear, like are the feet caked with mud from stomping around? Raised edges scraping against shit, or against other armor plates? One of the worst things you can do is even "all over" weathering, it looks like crap and makes no sense.

>>10744875
your phone

>>10744971
for me it's everything being made entirely out of ABS, which is a material that's a bitch to work with since it doesn't sand well compared to PS.

>>10744969
real life tanks are around twice the size of a gundam's foot so if you want your weathering to be "to scale" you've gotta make it even smaller than it looks on them

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soul

Is Godhand SPN120 better than DSPIAE 3.0? I can't decide between them

>>10746141
He's in Seoul yes

>>10745054
How?

>>10746479
>Is Godhand SPN120 better than DSPIAE 3.0
yes.

>>10746539
is it really that much better for double the cost of dspiae 3.0?

>>10746542
>is it really that much better for double the cost of dspiae 3.0
If $30 buys you food for two weeks, then probably not.

>>10746521
Photograph your gunpla from at least 10m away and it'll hide all imperfections, like magic.

>>10746521
Phones takes pictures

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Asked on /m/, asking here as well.

I'm starting my collection of Gaianotes, and want to buy in bulk to not get murdered on shipping costs. I'd like to get opinions on the following before I commit. I don't intend to buy like 40 bottles in a single purchase, but I would like to at least get a "bare minimum" list going and then go from there (there's a few kits in my backlog that I know I'll have to buy some more uncommon colors for).

1. Which colors are "must have" for Gunpla if I mostly build hero character MSes and few to no Zeon? Obvious ones are the Gundam parade colors plus black, purple and grey, but what other colors are commonly used, and what's handy to have for mixing?

2. I would like to take a gloss coat approach to my Gunpla (they're made of metal, and metal is shiny), but should I instead just buy matt or semi-gloss and do a gloss topcoat instead? Should I buy both matt and gloss of all the important colors? How does everyone here approach that?

And on a similar note, I've started buying up Vallejo since Hobby Lobby sells it (mainly because I don't want to deal with shipping costs). I have 16 bottles of that so far (as I said in the last thread I do want to eventually get into painting printed resin sculptures) but what other colors are recommended? My current stock is:

White
Flat Black
Gloss Black
Flat Red
Flat Yellow
Flat Green
Gold
Silver
Dark Blue
Natural Steel
Blue Violet
Neutral Grey
Basic Skin Tone
Leather Brown
Chocolate Brown
Sky Blue

>>10744665
they are good, but you will need to glue it and paint it. Not as detailed as Hasegawa.

>>10746638
Why would you get into rare Gaia when Mr Color is cheap and plentiful?
All the color guides use MrColor (never Gaia) and MrColor has like 2x the colors of Gaia lineup.

>>10746659
Partly because I fell for the propaganda that Gaia gives good hue/coverage for volume so the cost ratios are about even, partly because I heard the colors are better, and partly because I want to feel like a special snowflake. If I'm going to commit to a particular brand, I may as well go for the one that has the most positive things said about it.

Not that I have anything in particular against GSI Creos, but I also don't mind if my paint job doesn't match the color guide 1:1. Ultimately I just want it to look cool on my shelf.

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>>10746662
>gives good hue/coverage for volume
Mr Color has amazing coverage (as in light over dark with a couple of 1:3 coats). I don't believe Gaia can do better and I use both.

>colors are better
This is highly subjective of course, but Gaia Notes Flesh line for example cannot even approach Mr Color Luscivus line imo.

>I'm going to commit to a particular brand
That is just not smart. Every brand has its strong points. Gaia has the best clear fluorescents and its metallics are good but otherwise it's unremarkable in my opinion. Mr Color has great primary and military colors but its metallics are nothing to write home about. Alclad has the best metallics but the rest of the line you can easily live without.

>>10746594
I'm scared the Godhand will be break after few kits

>>10746715
It will not break on its own. Whether it breaks or not is entirely up to you, anon.

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>>10746716
ackshually it'll corrode if it's humid and you didn't oil it using the Official Godhand™ Maintenance Oil

>>10742848
is the exodia any good

>>10746746
Can i use unoffficial chinchong maintenance oil for Godhand SPN-120?

>>10746808
Yes but an escalator may eat your first born child.

Bros, tell me the truth, I already have the DSPIAE 3.0, DSPIAE ST-X, and Ultimate Nipper someshit made in Australia, Should I buy Godhand SPN120? What difference will it make?

>>10746713
>using gaianotes with mr color
don't do this it produces mustard gas
>>10746808
>using chinchong™ maintenance oil for SPN-120s
don't do this it produces mustard gas

>>10744205
>>10744236
speaking of off-scale. real military aircraft and even commercial ones have tons of warning markings that would make a Ver Ka model look bare, but they're so small that they become invisible from a distance. gundam decals are hilariously off-scale too, that they look like a mumble rapper when you put many of them, even if you look at them from a distance.

>>10746818
seriously, if you know your craft, you can easily get away with Tamiya or entry grade shit. the godhands are meant for professional modelers who benefit from faster prepping time especially for those who work with deadlines. otherwise it's just a vanity/status item.

>>10746818
Truth is, the real nippers are ones we made along the way, so you should pick up an apprenticeship at a machine shop.

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>>10746827
>they become invisible from a distance.
*flies in your path*

>>10746713
anon, I am always in awe of your modeling knowledge, levelheaded thinking, and well written posts.

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>>10746141
>soul
>not even panel lined

>>10746746
I've literally never done any kind of maintenance on mine aside from blowing plastic off and probably getting spit on it. I also cut clear plastic with them. They're fine so far, had them for 2 years. And somewhere in the realm of 50 kits done

>>10746713
If gaia is the same price or only a dollar to two dollars more than mr color then I would invest in gaianotes. Just due to the fact that you can thin almost all of their paints 1:3 and they still have better coverage than mr color so you really get a lot of value for your money. But yeah dont just get a single brand. Mr color has some unique types of paint that gaia doesn't have and vice versa.

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evergreen 0.25x0.5mm are my favorite "weird" styrene rods and after just a few years of modelling I'm starting to run out.
anyone else working on anything and got some WIPs?

I made HG guntank which i enjoyed, then I made the HG guncannon from the cucuruz doan's island, but it wasnt fun.

What would you reccomend that has the fun of the gun tank model?

>>10746925
>fact that you can thin almost all of their paints 1:3 and they still have better coverage than mr color
Is that a fact? Did you see that for yourself?

>>10747014
It's not on Wikipedia so it can't be a fact.

>>10747014
I have legitimately like 100 jars each or Mr color and gaianotes and a bunch of other lacquer brands

You know, ever time I think Bandai can't get any more retarded. They prove me wrong. They are claiming the PBandai drop for tonight has 80+ items, but they've shown maybe 10 of the items that'll be included. How retarded do they have to be to wait till the purchasing goes live to show the full stock. Are they that scared of scalpers?

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>>10747468
>tfw all interesting Bandai kits were already released in the 80s, no need to wait for PBandai

>>10747468
I'm gravy as long as I can get my A and L Mission Packs. Everything else is just frosting on top, though I wouldn't say no to the other ones I don't have yet.

>>10746765
yes, but it doesn't have a great range of movement.

>>10747468
>Are they that scared of scalpers?
If they were truly worried about them they would implement shit like captchas and shit in their store and force their partners to do it too. They probably just aren't sure what items will be ready on time.

>>10747523
If captchas really worked, then the PS5 wouldn't have gotten scalped to hell and back during the plague years.

>>10746978
You must search your own feelings and identify WHY it was not fun in comparison to the Guntank. Then we can help.

>>10747531
That's why I didn't restrict myself to just Captchas, and it all depends on the style of captcha; I would bet the 4chan style would work wonders in that case. At least it would prevent the merchandise from being gone in less than 5 seconds.

The PS5 too was affected in its initial release by the supply chain strain, so at the beginning there were fewer number of units that is normal.

>>10747468
You are a week early for the expo items. Its the 28th when they list everything.

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>>10747622
Or I suppose, you could read.

>>10747627
16th-23rd-28th you fucknut

>>10747635
>16th
You REALLY can't read, can you?

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>>10747627

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>>10747636
Eat it tard

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>>10747637

You morons is dildos.

>>10747645
Yes that was obvious from
>>10747627
The 28th is when everything will be put up, that and what was listed previously is what the +80 items means. Yes it is slightly misleading. No I did not have any hand in it nor am I defending it. Just tried to say there is more than the drop tonight. Sorry bud

Five minutes remain...

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Finished up eva-02 tonight. I really like the model but it's hard to display it in a way that lets you appreciate the detail on the front of the Eva because of the way it's hunched over the angel. Should I post more pics?

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>check the USA Gundam Base Tour page for the first time in a week
>had originally expected to have to drive up to the state capital to visit it, maybe even plan out the weekend for it
>nope, it's coming straight to my city
>and the venue is literally like a five minute drive from my fucking house, in the park where I take my dog for walks

The November 16 listings weren't all that mind-blowing for me, but goddamn if I'm not going to go.

Why is lacquer paint used again? My friend into warhammer minitature painting told me that lacquer paint is just something that gunpla autists came up with, is useless and that actually water-based acrylics would be totally fine with gunpla too. Having known him for some time I know he has a habit of talking about things he knows nothing about (gunpla painting in this case) like he knows it all, but still, it made me wonder why lacquer-based painting seems to be the norm for gunpla whereas you speak to someone who only paints warhammer miniatures and they don't even know that there are enamel or lacquer based paints, the only thing they know is acrylic. The only thing I can guess at is that for gundam you don't really use a brush and there's a reason why lacquer is better spray painted but that's only my guess. Anyone care to share?

>>10748036
>Should I post more pics?
sure anon

>p-bandai doesn't ship to canada
fuck this gay country

>>10748086
Lacquers are better formulated for airbrushing, and properly thinned it's great for uniformly coating the pieces with thin layers of paint that are smooth and don't interfere with articulation. They also dry very quickly, so the down time between coats is relatively short, allowing you to quickly give them double coats or get straight to assembly.

And depending on the person you ask, they can be quite durable and adhere well to the pieces with a proper coat of primer, which, when further sealed with top coat, prevents the paint from scratching (important since Gunpla has moving joints).

>>10748107
I see, thanks for the response. I'd like to get into airbrushing but the whole fume booth and mask thing kind of kills it for me. I have limited living space and no good space to set up for it, sadly.

>>10748086
>told me that lacquer paint is just something that gunpla autists came up with
it's the preferred option for scale modelers, sci-fi modelers, GK modelers and now warhammer to some degree too.

>>10748118
Is it true that metallic colors come out better with lacquer-based paints?

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I'm looking for some help. I've never built a piece from scratch, and I decided my grand daddy Gundam deserved better than some random piece of off-shape red plastic in his forehead after I lost the part that came with the kit.

For reference, the part I'm talking about is the red part circled in blue in the picture.

How would I go about creating a replacement piece for it? I did some research and I've seen how replacements are made with the initial piece used to make a mold, but that's my issue, I don't have the initial piece, so would anyone have some suggestions on how I would go about re-making a shape similar to that piece in his forehead so I could then use it to make a mold? Or any other suggestions. Thanks in advance.

>>10748036
Looks great anon, any WIP Pics?

>>10748135
The hard way is to get a piece of plastic of roughly the same size, and then meticulously cut and sand it using tools available to you until you get the original piece back.

The "easy" way is to buy a resin 3D printer and print it out yourself, then sand and paint it.

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>>10748145
Thanks. I realized I could have kept it in pieces and painted it before assembly but I did it the hard way.

>>10748195
This all handpainted? Looks clean.

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>>10748195
Great kit. Could probably paint all of with an air brush and very little masking if you're smart during building

>>10748155
>The "easy" way is to buy a resin 3D printer and print it out yourself, then sand and paint it.
true that is probably easier but also very expensive for a small bit of plastic, I would rather not do that. Is there any sort of plastic you recommend to trim/sand down to size? I don't really have anything on hand that I can think of that would do the job for this specific piece. I know it'll be a fair amount of work but since it's just this one piece I don't mind doing it. Short of buying the same kit again and reusing that piece as a base for a mold I can't think of anything else.

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>>10748197
Mostly hand painted. Base coat was done with airbrush for large sections. Lots of wash and dry brushing.

Kit is called artpla battle at the geofront

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>>10748135
>>10748207
Take some pieces thick pla plate, cut them small squares a little larger than your target size, then glue each squad with tamiya cement. After letting it sit under a heavy object and fusing, cut/sand into your desired shape. Alternatively, you can find a small piece of plastic and skip the stacking and gluing
part. Just be sure to draw guide lines. Look for pic related on archive and e-hentai for more info.

>>10748048
You got me looking again. All stops in the South, I'll never catch a break up here

>>10748125
Lacquer dries really quick so you can get a food finish on metallics where the pigments don't settle far below the surface

>>10748233
>Take some pieces thick pla plate, cut them small squares a little larger than your target size, then glue each squad with tamiya cement
I actually thought about this, but it seemed too out there of an idea and I thought the gluing wouldn't work. This is probably what I'll end up doing then, thanks.

>>10748111
There are spray booths on Amazon that take care of 85% of everything for you, all you need is a table to put it on and a nearby window to direct the exhaust hose. Some setups also apparently direct the fumes into an enclosed Home Depot bucket with absorbent rags stashed inside if you can't get access to a window, but I don't know how well that works. As for the mask, you can easily buy one at Ace Hardware, they're kind of pricey but the expenses are well worth it as the equipment will literally save your life.

The big problem with airbrushing is the huge initial investment needed to purchase all the equipment (I think I'm currently at about $600 USD and counting). I've been building Gunpla wrong for like 25+ years though, so for me it's well worth it to finally be good at the hobby I've had most of my life. Though if you really think about it, Gunpla is actually not an absurdly expensive hobby, provided that you don't just wantonly order the most expensive kits from import websites without heeding the shipping costs. Equipment investment is not that bad when compared to other hobbies, for instance PC gaming has you pay at least a thousand every 3-4 years even if you're conservative about it, to say nothing of games if you pre-order or purchase on launch day.

>>10748135
>grand daddy
hello, reddit!

>>10748291
You can get into airbrushing for really cheap if you don't mind not getting the best of the best stuff. You can get a good airbrush for under 100, a decent compressor for 50, paints/thinners you don't need to spend even 100 to get started. You can DIY a spray booth. Only thing you can't really cheap out on is a respirator with a good filter, but even that isnt too bad. All in all you can easily do it for under 300.
But yeah once you realize that maybe you do want some better shit it starts to add up. I have like 800 in airbrushes and around 1k in different paints now
But all things considered its still a pretty cheap hobby compared to others

>>10748293
It's pretty funny to me that people are still on this shit like nearly a decade later. I did it too 10 years ago, because reddit seemed cringe and that was funny to me as an idiot college kid. But damn, to still be doing it now feels like seeing a 45 year old guy TPing houses or some shit. Just embarrassing.

I know you're probably a hypocrite too, I see a lot of you guys doubleposting the same content here and on reddit.

>>10748135
Buy a hot glue gun. Squirt a blob onto the area. Let it cool, then pull it out. Test fit it and see if it will hold. If so, congrats, just carve it down to the shape you want, paint*, and you're done.

This won't give fantastic quality results but it will prob work and it's cheap and easy.

>>10748312
>paint*
lol, show me paint that sticks to hotglue for more than a minute
you'd be better off using colored hotglue honestly

>>10748293
I don't go on reddit, I probably got it from a youtube video somewhere. Thanks for teaching me something, though. If you know that's where it came from, you must be pretty familiar with the place.

>>10748321
yeah i originally had this thing typed up where i wasn't sure if paint would stick but I deleted it. anyway, that deleted part also said if it doesn't stick, you can at least use that piece as a base to build putty or plaplate on top of. It will be easier than trying to sand and test fit a piece of plastic.

>>10748334
Well, it wouldn't be a bad idea to shape the hardened glue to the shape I want it and cast the mold from it then. I'll consider that also, thank you.

>>10748289
>I thought the gluing wouldn't work
The good thing about tamiya cement is that it'll fuse the plastic. If you're still worried use some epoxy putty on each side and let it seep and sit.
>>10748312
>Hot glue
why not some 2 part putty or UV curing putty?

>>10748291
If you're airbrushing water based paints you can just point the exhaust at a bucket of water

I moved some things around my workstation and now my paints are in front of my window. However, I get minimal direct sunlight into this room (facing backyard, balcony directly above). Do I need to worry about any UV fading of the paints in their bottles?

>>10748421
To specify, depending on season there's probably an hour or so of direct sunlight during sunrise, and the blinds are generally down during that time. Right now it pretty much gets no direct sunlight at all.

Would a gloss topcoat make the stickers underneath look like shit? This RG Exia doesn't have available decals for sale. I would like a gloss coat, but I'd settle for matte.

>>10748304
Oh fuck off retard not everyone here is a disingenuous asshole like you. I'll call our faggots like you everyday because you deserve to be called out. Now fuck off

>>10748566
hahah boi you so mad

>>10748558
Very yes. Gloss coats will emphasize any imperfection on an otherwise smooth surface, and stickers (transparent or not) are raised surface city. Even under a matte coat the stickers will stick out like a sore thumb.

Effectively, if you want a gloss coat to look nice, you're going to have to use dry decals (even waterslides can be imperfect unless you use decal softener) and you're going to have to sand out any imperfections before each coat. That can be quire difficult to pull off without time and dedication.

>>10748647
Thank you, that's what I thought. I've done successful gloss coats with water decals. Never have I been stuck with stickers on a kit I wanted to gloss coat, until now. I'll just settle with matte. It'll help the shiny stickers pop out more I suppose.

>>10748665
If you want to be serious about making your Exia look awesome, you could try to buy decal paper to print your own waterslides. Just find a print shop with an inkjet printer that can print white ink, though the other prerequisite is decent Photoshopping skills and possibly learning how to do vector graphics (depending on how small your decals will be).

I FEEL LIKE I'M MISSING SOMETHING WHEN NOT HAVING A GODHAND NIPPER, I FEEL ALOT OF ANXIETY

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>>10748848
I feel anxiety if I don't have the backup godhand

>drag feet ordering MG Powerball
>miss it again

I'm so fucking stupid anons. I never learn my PBandai lesson.

>>10742848
Apparently there's a Wikia with a bunch of Gundam lineart. Maybe add this to the next OP, for people trying to do their own custom paint jobs and want a template to experiment with.

https://mechalineart.fandom.com/wiki/MechaLineart_Wiki

>>10749369
Never drag your feet on your balls.

>>10748704
Bandai sell decals for that kit and there's after market sets available, that's way easier than buying a printer and trying to male your own

>>10749669
You don't have to buy your own inkjet printer, just find a print shop in town that has one.

>>10749675
Or just spend $5 on a decal sheet and not have to deal with any of that

>>10749191
>not having at least 2 backup godhands
NGMI

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When the sister-in-law shows up for leftovers

>>10750183
>spent all this time and effort
>built it this huge
>HG level of detail
point&laugh

>>10750183
i like it
wonder how many cans of topcoat and how much panel liner it'll take to complete

>>10750267

just use pledge and an airbrush for a glossy topcoat

>>10750272
pledge doesn't exist anymore anon.

>>10749719
And pass up the chance to do fully custom shit that doesn't exist in aftermarket decals?

>>10750275
The new generic brand is called Quick Shine.

>>10750275

Quick Shine, Pledge -- same shit.

Five minutes... five minutes is all I can spare to play with you.

>>10750651
Damn... is that Char or Yazan that said this?

>>10750272
>"Just use pledge"
>Will yellow after 5-10 years
Might as well just get a regular acrylic topcoat or UV cut from Mr. Hobby.

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Was there ever a kit made of the thunderbolt version of the acguy?

>>10750830
Not yet but there was one in that meta leak, but was just a static piece and not cut out into parts.

>>10750876
No it wasn't. It was a fan's kitbash being shown on display

>>10750888
Yes it was

>>10749191
Whats the difference between the God Hand $45 and the Ruitool $17.99?

Need recommendations for which brand of lacquer has the best clear colors. One of my eventual projects is going to be to try to replicate the gold chrome plating of a Hyaku-Shiki type MS, which involves a chrome coat on black base followed by a clear yellow-brown mix. If it works out, I may expand to other types of colored chrome paint jobs.

And on that note, I do also need recommendations for a good chrome coat, I hear that Alclad is a good choice for this but I'm open to other opinions as well. Particularly since Alclad Chrome seems to be out of stock literally everywhere.

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>>10751030
For your stated purpose the paint your are looking for is enamel, not lacquer (you are going to have to do some more research to find out why that is) and the only enamel of note that has clear colors is Tamiya, so you don't really have a choice.

>>10751035
Revell also has a few clear colors in their enamel range, but they may not be easily available outside Europe.

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>>10751028
Idk. They kinda look like godhand bootleg, they have asymmetrical jaws like the gh. GH has anvil style cutter where one side cuts like a scalpel against the other flat jaw. The bottom of the cut is perfectly flat leaving clean cuts. Regular nippers pinch the plastic from both sides. If ruitool is made of chinesium it'll probably go full quickly.

>>10751035
Go alclad for everything. Their aqua gloss looks wet when it's dry it's so shiny. And their metalics+their gloss black are so easy to apply correctly.

>>10751293
>their gloss black
Their gloss black is enamel. If you use it, never use enamel to panel line or weather because the thinner goes right through super-thin metallic coat and melts the gloss black underneath.

>>10750876
How long abouts do you think it would be before it becomes a physical model?

>>10751397
Could be years with bandai. Could get forgotten and cancelled. We never know. We are getting a g line after 15 years from the game release.

>>10751030
if you can import, try Armored Komodo's Supra Chrome. it's pretty tough and doesn't easily tarnish when topped with clear coat. for the candy colors, the secret for that ultimate candy shine is 2k clear (polyurethane) applied on top of the candy color.

>>10751030
Born chrome and clear colors are fantastic

>>10751648
But I already built the model for it I dont need a poster for it

>>10751403
damn

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>>10742852
Time to dump the builds.

A year after the Granada treaty was signed, the remnants of the 03rd MS Team are still hard at work after being transferred to North Africa to hunt down Zeon Remnant forces. EFF command provides little support for their own team, and with resources and spare parts for the RX-79[G] Ground Gundam, the 03rd MS Team has to use whatever is available. This suit, dubbed the Ground Tank Gundam, RX-79[GT], is just an example of such battlefield ingenuity. A formerly crippled suit has been grafted upon a scavenged Zeon weapons platform and still operates in fire support roles. The YHI FH-X180 180mm cannon is it's only remaining armament, providing more than enough firepower for any of their prey's aging Zakus. The war may be over, but the battle continues on...

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USS Admiral Joseph B. Hound, his scout copter A Gentle Breeze Drifting Over the Mountaintop, and of course the torpedo decoy...

Armaments include two undershoulder cannons, one deck mounted naval gun, a hellfire VLS battery, a radar guided anti-air rocket battery, an equippable rifle with grenade launcher, and an equipable laser rifle!

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Sometimes simple designs are the best ones and all you need is heavy platform with enough firepower to punch the frontline and enough armor to safely deliver it. You, my good sir, need an eEXM-16EU Ursus. During the latest Byron offensive, Earth armies on the European front had to improvise and combine available resources and parts into capable war machines. eEXM-16EU is essentially combination of standard torso with good and battle-proven mega-tank design, equipped with massive 150mm cannon and missile pods for aircraft deterrence as well as two short-range rifles. Its design is also marked by relatively low profile and excellent stability and mobility, thanks to four articulating treads and protected with thick composite armor. Nicknamed "Ursus", Latin for bear, it lives up to its name on the battlefield.

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A Spinatio customized for submarinal infiltration, the Spinatio Sneak Merfolk sneaks across the ocean floor to hit its foes by surprise!

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After a long war was over, the Grandpa Gundam was finally able to rest at last. With its wheelchair sled in tow this mobile suit showed strength in the line of duty.

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Vierfüssler means to walk with four legs in German. This walking tank was developed in the later years of the war as a replacement for the Tiger II. It is equipped with a larger cannon on the main turret as well as a twin-barrel anti-personnel turret on the undercarriage. This particular unit has been deployed on the northern front for over 6 months and hasn't seen proper cleaning or repair for several months as supply lines have become strained. It has 47 confirmed enemy armor kills against the Soviets.

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From the annals of the Calamity War, the Vehuel was one of several Mobile Armors that saw combat against the Gundam Frames. Featuring several verniers across its structure and high-speed cruising mode, this Mobile Armor can close in for a kill with its high-powered Vice Claws capable of crushing through even Nanolaminate Armor.

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A late OYW upgrade for the RTX-65 Early Guntanks for Operation Odessa, outfitted with heavy ERA to stop rounds up to 175 mm from Magella attack or other mobile weapons. Chobham armor from the Gundam Alex project has been retrofitted to the shoulders and inserted inside the chest composites for improved passive protection.
Firepower has been given an upgrade with federation standard bazooka replacing the old rifled guns. Left arm had its rapid fire machine cannons replaced with a grenade launcher that can fire smoke, anti infantry grenades, or anti mobile suit rounds.
Due to the rifles being replaced with bazooka the heat exchange on the back is no longer need, the Ground Gundam's backpack (without its expensive boosters) has taken its place to allow the Guntank Boomer to carry additional cargo or to resupply squad mates.

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RX-75 Guntank units such as this one were stationed at Jaburo during Zeon’s attack on the base on November 24th, UC0079. Their strong firepower provided by their 280mm cannons, in addition their mobility allowed them more versatility than stationary defenses, which was essential for repelling Zeon’s air forces, including the multiple Gaws that deployed 120 mobile suits during the attack. This Guntank was piloted by Ryan Kobayashi, a 19-year-old stationed at Jaburo while participating in a Federation Mobile Suit training program. His eccentric attitude and near obsession with cowboys earned him the nickname of “Rawhide” among his squad, a title he embraced. During the first day of fighting, his unit received light damage from a Dopp, but was able to continue operating through the rest of the assault. On November 25th, Kobayashi was killed in his Guntank after losing his position to an advancing unit of Acguys.

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Gorgon is a pocket Warden class Battlecarrier, a hybrid of Battleship and Carrier. Originally intended to function as a cheap capital vessel that could support the land battlefleets of the Terran Federation, operating in the line of battle whilst also providing air cover, the Warden series was almost instantly rejected by most admirals. Its attempt to combine the strengths of a Battleship and Carrier on a compact hull led to it having a modicum of abilities from both ship classes and a sleuth of downsides - its hull was tall and flat in order to accommodate the hangars and service bays making it an easy and vulnerable target, its engineering and final drives were exposed on the underside of the hull to free up space within it, its main battery was lackluster, its aircraft complement was tiny, and its secondary armament was only able to engage targets off of its port side. Additionally, no fly off or landing operations could take place whilst the main battery was in operation. Despite this the class would see use on tertiary worlds where its flexible nature was ideal for single vessel patrols.
The Warden class is armed with two twin 403mm guns in its fore and aft turrets, either side of the bridge tower, complemented by eight 205mm secondary guns in casements beneath the bridge. Atop its tower it mounts three 35mm CIWS that provide a 360 arc of coverage between them, whilst its air complement consists of 12 AV36 multi-role aircraft, armed with two lasers, a modular weapons mount, and plenty of underwing ordnance racks.
Gorgon would see use suppressing rebels on the desert world of Thule, and thwarting numerous raids. As of the current date, it is still in service, patrolling the arid worlds deserts and shallow seas.

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A rapid response atmospheric Mobile Armour used by Axis, the Interceptor version of the Ga-Zowmn sacrifices its legs and wings for massive booster pods. Each pod contains a large conventional rocket and an air breathing thermonuclear jet engine. Its main role is anti-ship and anti-fortress warfare, but it is able to transform into a Mobile Suit for aerial hand to hand combat. Unable to land on the surface (except emergency landings in a body of water) the Ga-Zowmn Interceptor must return to carrier aircraft or escape into space after each sortie.

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Overall a pretty nice selection of builds this time around. Color choices were pretty militaristic in tow with lotta browns, blues, greens, and greys. Grats to all who submitted their entries!

Voting will be open from now until Thursday at Midnight (4+ days of voting). Vote for your favorites here!
https://forms.gle/PD26Gm1FSjU98MWi6

And as always, respond to this post with your ideas for the next Group build. The five other themes from the last poll will automatically be included in the running
>Criminal Groupbuild (Build a mech designed to be used by a villainous criminal, an evil organization, or an extraterrestrial threat)
>Urban Warfare Groupbuild (Build and customize a mech themed around combat in a city environment)
>Stolen (Build a mecha made by one faction, but change its aesthetics and style to its rival faction [ex. Zeon-themed Guntank, Federation-themed Gelgoog, Titans-themed Zeta])
>Nightmare (Build a mecha encompassing things like corruption, symbiosis, horror, or organic mecha)
>Witch From Mercury (Build/customize a kit from the Gundam: Witch From Mercury series)
Poll for the next theme will be up in a couple of days

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>>10751648
This might have been a good idea in the past, when they had actual talented painters doing the boxart. These shits felt worth saving. Nowadays it's all CG, looks cheap and shitty. No sovl. I have not seen a box worth hanging up in like over a decade.

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>>10751384
You should gloss coat the model before panel lining or washing anyway. The metallic layer is very delicate
I'm pretty sure it's lacquer. I always clean the airbrush like any other lacquer paint after spraying it.

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>>10751759
Thanks for hosting as usual GBD. I'm really glad a theme I suggested got a good number of entries and they're not all just Guntanks.

>>10751030
>>10751035
>>10751439
>>10751680
Asking again, but for the purpose of painting white LEDs. One of my ultimate goals is to be able to mod my Gunpla (in combination with an SLA printer) so that I can stick micro LEDs into the eye and chest gem areas, wire to an inductor coil in the hollow recesses within the torso, and make a wireless LED setup so that I don't have to worry about batteries or any of that shit. For this obviously the smoothness of the paint application won't matter, but all the same I would like to know the best way to take a white LED and make it shine in the color I desire.

Are Tamiya enamels still the best option for this? I think my local specialist hobby shop only sells their acrylics, so this is something I'll probably have to buy online (yet again).

>>10751920
>I'm pretty sure it's lacquer.
It is enamel. Open a bottle and smell it. If you have no sense of smell or don't know what white spirits smell like, read: https://alclad2.com/how-to/ (the part about clear base and black base).

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>>10751907
>Nowadays it's all CG
Ver Ka covers are hand painted by Katoki.

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>>10752302
>the best way to take a white LED and make it shine in the color I desire
That would be to take an RGB LED and wire it to a digispark board and write like 3 lines of code in Arduino to tell your led what color you want (or you can write more code to make it pulsate or change color). If you're going to go through the motions with the wireless setup, this is a small addition.

>>10751920
You can clean acrylics, enamels and lacquers with lacquer thinner. Really its the easiest way to clean all of them too

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>>10751648
What's with the nasty ass coke nail?

>>10752411
Some asians do that to clean their ears. My mom does that and she's never done coke

>>10752346
Or you can just stick a bit of colored cellophane on it

I'm thinking of doing oil weathering on an unpainted kit. I'm bad at googling so I haven't found any results for this, but it shouldn't be an issue, right? I could at least put down a clear coat before the weathering. My spoon test seems to have gone well too.

>>10752541
Yeah slap a clear coat on it at least. There's no good way to tell which oil blends attack which plastics.

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>>10752331
That's cool, but the style he chose just looks like the CG covers. I couldn't even tell this was handpainted, thought this was a 3D model with a texture filter slapped onto it.

>>10752415
Gross my day has been ruined

>>10752415
That's even worse

>>10752411
coke nail?

>>10752953
underage

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>>10752953
[spoiler]"When a person has one significantly longer fingernail on one or both hand(s), most often the pinkie nail, which is used for scooping up powder cocaine and snorting it."[/spoiler]

>>10752346
I assume I would have to stick a circuit board in every Gunpla I do this for? That seems highly impractical for a RG that I would already have to hollow out pieces of to place the LEDs in in the first place. Simply painting a white LED feels like it would be more foolproof since there's fewer things that could go wrong, not to mention significantly cheaper.

>>10753428
not necessarily, you can wire all of the LEDs on a single circuit with fixed colored LEDs and the proper resistors and you wouldn't need any form of logic board. it's only needed if you want RGB functionality.

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Why can't I find a zaku mariner for under 40 dollars? Is it one of those currently OOP kits, is it just expensive? Scalemates (I don't know how reliable they are for gunpla compared to scale armor) says it got a new box in 2020 and most other zaku kits I can find are running at 20-30 dollars

>>10752726
oww a picture of a nail ruined your day, poor thing

>>10753428
if you think you can find space for an induction coil, you can find space for a tiny board (I doubt you can find space in an RG for either of them)

>>10753520
Yeah its legitimately grosser than gore

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>>10753612
This is the inside of the torso of the RG Wing Zero Custom. The power gem is placed over the circular peg on the bottom and the upper chestpiece slots into the bottom hole. Seems pretty easy to drill a hole and wire an LED through the power gem peg, and put an inductor into that huge-ass cavity. I could also probably run a couple wires out from that same inductor and up the neck (pretend that they're exposed power cables) to a pair of miniature LEDs behind the eyes, though I'd likely have to print a custom piece for that one since cutting into the existing one looks a bit dicey.

Certainly that cavity is too small for a battery, but I've seen inductors that could probably fit into it. A circuit board on top of that feels impractical.

>>10753699
Yeah that guy is crazy. If you're never planning on changing the color there's no reason to use RGB LEDs

>>10753438
anything selling for that much over retail price is (temporarily) out of production.

Do you guys have any models you're particularly proud of?

>>10753844
Everything I have up to this point is either just a snapbuild with panel lining and minor painting, or a horrible hand paint job. The least shitty kit I currently have is the RG RX-78-2 that I just panel lined and sprayed topcoat over the bare plastic without painting.

Thankfully that's all changing since I finally bought an airbrush last month and am just waiting on the paints to ship in.

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>when you don't have a door handle but have a leftover PE runner and some random bits of plastic

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>>10754034
Bath time.

Can I use the iwata medea airbrush cleaner after using mr color surfacer/uv cut topcoats or will I need lacquer thinner?

>>10754153
>will I need lacquer thinner
Yes. Iwata cleaner is for water-based acrylics only.

>>10754256
That's what I thought, thanks anon. Will lacquer thinner clean up after acrylics as well?

>>10754258
Yes. There's not really a reason to use anything else for cleaning.

>>10754262
Gotcha, I'll go hunt some down at Home Depot. Thanks again.

>>10753835
How long until it's back in?

>>10754478
you ask me this question and you don't even bring chicken entrails to do a reading with?

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why are these rubber parts covered in red gunk? this is an oldass kit

>>10754845
could be some kind of mold release or possibly (unlikely) a degrading plasticizer.

>>10754037
>Ultrasonic cleaner
Why? I always see these and dont understand, are they better than dishsoap and a toothbrush, or a soak in alcohol?

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>>10754986
>better than dishsoap and a toothbrush
Yes, because you don't risk breaking off small details with a toothbrush, also because alcohol evaporates without a trace.

>better than soak in alcohol
Yes, because moving alcohol also dislodges small bits of plastic and dust from nooks and crannies.

>>10751648
Yeah, cool idea but I just took all my boxes, put the small boxes inside the bigger boxes inside the bigger boxes inside the bigger boxes so now it's boxes inside boxes all stuck inside my biggest box because my mom loves empty boxes to put stuff into.

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How do you all determine which parts will have a metallic surface versus a matte finish?

Final P-Bandai e-Festival drop happening soon, fellow plastic toy robot builders...

>>10755138
i usually have the inner frame matte, and the armor usually semi gloss finish

>>10755138
I usually try to imagine what the material would be made out of, typically separated by color.

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The spice must flow.

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>>10755283
I didn't think they would make the harvester quite this large. Should be a fun little build some time next year.

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>godhand in japan
>26 eur
>godhand in europoor
>60 eur without shipping fee
???

>>10755663
I am sure there is something made in Europe that is more expensive when bought from Japan.

>>10754986
The other anon already said it well, but just adding, if you just run a super dusty toy under a faucet without rubbing it down, you will find that when it dries, there is still a fine coat of dust on it. An ultrasonic cleaner would remove this type of more difficult stuff.

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>>10754986
here's a part rinsed and soaked in alcohol in an ultrasonic cleaner, you should be able to understand.

>>10755283
>>10755293
oh this shits out already?

>>10755737
I don't think Japanese stores have them yet. Aliexpress on the other hand.

>>10755138
do post your final result, I have it in my backlog and need some inspo for when I finally get to it

>>10755283
Are you gonna make a cool diorama out of them?

>>10755980
I might.

>>10756000
Do it

>>10756006
All in good time. I have a lot of projects to do before that.

>>10756008
I know that feel bro

Should i get a Raser or the Infini 3 ways system?

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>the pleasure of being able to print without any supports
So I decided that I want my mansion to fit into a basketball display case (rather than require a custom made one or take up too much space in a display cabinet), so I'm reprinting it at 20% of the original size (instead of 30% I originally planned).
Also, fuck printing a zillion pieces and gluing them together, I'd rather glue them together before printing.

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>>10757243
>next achievement unlocked
The test for the whole idea was whether I can print these intricate railings at 20% and it turned out that I can.
The hardest part was not the printing itself but removing supports without breaking off the tips.

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has anyone tried to buy from entertainment earth? I want to pick this up and all my locals don't have it in stock, they also have this on an amazing deal right now. Just wondering.

>>10758429
holy fuck that's a good price, thanks for the heads up. And yes, I have bought from them, they're fine. They're quite an old company, they've been around since the mid-90s and are trustworthy.

>>10758438
I know they are a legitimate site, I've just never ordered from them before. I was wondering if there was any actual concern for ordering this right now, or just go for it.

>>10758429
I've only bought from them a few times very recently, but they're definitely legit, I had no issues.

>>10758440
Go for it. EE has always been good to deal with. But hope you jumped on it since the sale price seems to be over now.

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I'd like to recreate this scene. I can't think of what material I could use to make the angel here though. Any ideas?

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>>10760589
1. Buy some super-thin LED strip lighting
2. Paste one piece to another so it doesn't have an unlit back

>>10760810
they sell EL wire and LED filaments you know

>>10760881
>EL wire
Ah, EL Wire is what I was actually thinking of, but I was unable to put it into words that yielded a good search result. So I went with these LED strips instead.