naval aviation editionPrevious thread: >>10303917This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds-Have your builds critiqued or critique others-Discuss tips and techniques-Ask for advice or give advice to othersAlways remember:>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful. ALWAYS research your kits before buying.Some helpful guides to get started:https://www.scalemates.com/http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdfhttp://www.scalemodelguide.com/http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniqueshttp://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.htmlhttp://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progshttp://ipmsstockholm.org/https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/http://www.primeportal.net/home.htmPlus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:>ebayhttps://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)https://m-zone.pl (PL only)
Is this the non retarded /smg/?
>>10316386No it is retarded I forgot to check catalog before making it
>>10315304Unweathered models make me feel weird
>>10316386desu are you implying that /smg/ can not be retarded?
>>10318167can not not be*
I may be retarded
I'm so lonely...
>>10320473it's ok, we all get lonely sometimes
>>10318164I think ships can pull off the unweathered look when they're highly detailed, cleanly painted and nicely displayed.
I have an army hobby Wildcat in my stash...
>>10325795if you mean Arma hobby, then its a really great kit im working on one at the moment
>>10325813Yeah, arma hobby. I'm going to start it after I finish painting the arma hobby ki-84 (great kit too).
Why are car kits such a pain in the ass?>ancient molds covered in flash>chrome is ugly and needs chemical bath to strip it to paintable plastic >instructions are vague at best with parts with no guide holes >engine won't align with drive shaft/exhaust pipes>tires always have that mold seam down the middle I just want a nice muscle car that I don't have to operate extensively on
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SwYTyPFoBTc3d printerlets malding
>>10326518So it's basically like if the scale model companies decided to manufacturer their moulds with a hammer & chisel instead of cnc?
>>10326190Don’t buy AMT kits it’s that simple. Revell kits go together pretty well.
>love airbrushing, pre-shading, post-shading, etc.>lose motivation as soon as I have to brush paint details because I know it'll look shitty on my nicely airbrushed parts >kits sit for weeks
>>10326651really thin brushed on layers can actually look pretty good if you take your time with it
>>10326651I hope to experience those feels today
Is there a trick for getting vallejo white to look good? I can get all other colors to lay really flat and with minimal brush strokes but white comes out looking like ass even with multiple layers.
>>10325467but i've been alone my entire life desu
>>10326651>hate airbrushing, not really good at it.>enjoy brush painting, really good at it, especially for details.>eventually changed focus from airplane kits to war-gaming miniatures after decades of making planes. >this is the way. Play to your strengths, anon. There are no rules here.
>>10326518i gotta get myself a printer someday...
>>10326190thing that burns me up is the fucking prices; recent amt or revell kits are around 45 bucks canadian now - a fucking scam considering some of the molds date back to the 60's and the plastic is dogshit compared to the high quality styrene they used to use. anon was right, the revell stuff is better - my fave is old monogram stuff in 1/24th though, mostly picked up at shows.
what are some of the strongest decal solvents?I have Mark Fit Strong which I use when Micro Sol doesn't cut it, but I don't actually think it's much stronger. is Mark Fit Super Strong really that much better than Strong?the only place I can find Super Strong online is on Amazon and it's like $20 pre-shipping.
>>10326190I really don't get why they don't mould tyres with line close to the inner side wall, that way you can't even see it most of the time since they're a bitch to clean up
Post car builds. You rarely see them in here.
>>10327619>Canadian Well there's your problem
Do you stick your models together with bits of tape first? I've seen it (mainly aircraft models) but I don't fully understand it, usually something about checking for issues although I don't see how its better than just regular dry fitting...do you do this and then put the extra thin through? I wonder if I've been doing it wrong the whole time.
>>10328606I use a clothespin then apply the extra thin via capillary action. No idea if it's right or wrong I just got used to it
>>10328056Are prices that much cheaper in the US ? Looking on ebay i doubt it, imagine prices for US stuff in the rest of the world are ridiculous also. These companies are doing themselves in finally, are no longer selling to kids and teens, merely re-packaging old shit for boomers...
>>10328606It's to line it up and hold it in place for the glue to set properly. It not only mitigates against warping, but why would you want to hold two halves together for 5 minutes while they cure up? How could this even have possibly been a mystery to you?
>>10328945I use clamps and tape only sometimes for that. No, I mean put the entire model together with tape.
I remember hearing nightshift say that Tamiya X-22 should be applied more conservatively, with a fine mist from a greater distance (rather than high pressure or close-in) than most varnishes/paints. is this true? is he wrong? am I being schizophrenic?
>>10329175thin it 1:20 in a nice bowl then dunk
>>10328960If it's ships and airplanes I've never seen anyone put the whole thing together with tape, but the main structures (hull, fuselage, wings) certainly. These parts are prone to warping and have additional parts that later attach to it. A dry fit may not reveal the scale of the problem. For example, a dry fit would reveal a warp or poor fit between two long halves of a ship's hull, but as most of us are granted only two hands this would not reveal additional issues with deck fit. Superstructure then attaches to the deck. So the only way to detect a warp in the hull which may affect the fit of the deck, which may then in turn affect the fit of the superstructure is to hold them temporarily in place. Tape, being both ubiquitous and cheap, is ideal for this task. Similarly, an aircraft fuselage will have wings and tail surfaces attaching, possibly even separate ailerons, where poor fit or a warp will produce cumulative error. To avoid a disaster later in the build, it is best to discover and correct such anomalies early on. Even a relatively minor warp that might be undetectable with a dry fit may, over the length of a full wingspan, be off by a noticeable degree. In any instance where later structure depends on the integrity of earlier structure it is always best to find out before the problem becomes pemanent and you either have to live with one side higher than the other, or try to disassemble back to where you can rebuild and correct it.
>>10326518Pretty disappointingI wouldn't want a model that big to be that uglyI'd be happy having that on display if it were 1/700 scale not 1/150 scale
newfag here, what's the deal with airbrushesthey seem extremely expensive and are a pain to set up, you gotta buy so much shit alongside it like air breathers, and you have to figure out a ventilation systemwhats wrong with paintbrushing 4 to 5 layers? Takes a while sure but is the airbrush really worth the effort and money?
>>10318164hellcat does have a bit of foot scuffle on the wing
>>10329592They are necessary to achieving nice coats over large areas I just bought a 3M respirator and replace the cartridges occasionally but if you want to airbrush in a normal room you might want to get a ventilation system, I do it in my garageI don't think they're that expensive, I bought a chinese compressor and airbrush and they work for what I want to do
>>10329592>Takes a while sure but is the airbrush really worth the effort and money?Yes. You can do more with it (soft effects) and even just basic single-colour basecoats are much easier. People don't go through the expense of getting one and the trouble of using it if it's not providing a benefit, unless you think they went through all that just to make things harder and do it the stupid way. Maybe I can put it like this: you inherit a classic car and decide to restore it. You have to get it repainted. One guy says he'll do it with a spraygun for $4000, the other guys says he'll use a housepaint brush for $400. Who are you going to give money to if you want it to look good? That's the difference.
>>10329592Yeah, better finishes + gradients + effects are worth the money. You get use to the cleaning procedure and all the other foibles and it becomes 2nd nature pretty quickly and not the pain in the ass it seems at the outset.
>>10329251That ship would be like 5cm long as 1/700
>>10330081It would be 26cm long in 1/700
>>10330103More like 18cm mathlet buddy
>>10330247I did my math right, just looked up the length of the wrong USS St. Louis
>>10329979>>10329808>>10329644Would you say they are also much faster at painting a model? I'm really looking for ways to pump out 1 model a month, as I have plans for a large collectionI assume airbrush is just 1 layer and then the coat is done, how long does cleaning the airbrush take?
>>10330300Airbrush is required for that kind of volume if you don't want to be a slave to your models. They are much faster. It's not 1 layer and done, but you'll be applying multiple thin layers in one session. Cleaning the airbrush takes maybe 10 minutes if you fully disassemble it.
Did m4 shermans have flame cuts? I want to practice the technique but it's the only thing I'm working on atm
>>10330336assuming you aren't talking about the cast hull of the early models, then yes
>>10330300>Would you say they are also much faster at painting a model? I'm really looking for ways to pump out 1 model a month, as I have plans for a large collection1 model a month is definitely doable with an airbrush and probably requires a quarter of the time, maybe even less, than just using a brushup-front the costs are more (a working airbrush and good compressor cost like $200, plus thinner, cleaner, etc) but in the long run I'm fairly certain you save money. I can't even imagine using brushes to paint large areas anymore. the paint usage must be enormous.
do you guys have any recommended respirators for a solid price, or should any of the top results on Amazon do just fine? how does filter replacement work, are they interchangeable or do you need proprietary types for each brand? thinking it's about time I get one so I stop gassing me and my family and giving everyone cancer every time I spray Tamiya varnishes.
>>10328606When you check for fit issues it can be hard to hold everything perfectly still as you flip the model over to check the other side. So you tape it down to make sure both sides fit at the same time. And sometimes you want to check the fit of more parts all at once than you have prehensile appendages available.>>10329175Kinda heavily thinned and applied in kinda generous amounts works ok for me. His approach likely works for him.
>>10330450That there is a welded hull, here's a cast hull one. The upper edges of the hull sides are pretty obvious tells.>>103305243M is supposedly good. I have a Sundström, it works well. Some brands might use filters that fit another brand, but don't count on it. Chinesium knockoffs aren't something I'd bet my lungs on.
>>10330570>Kinda heavily thinned and applied in kinda generous amounts works ok for me.thanks anon. I've tried varying ratios, very close to 1:1 (sometimes more sometimes less), and experimented with light coats and just completely drowning it. maybe next time I'll try a thinner coat then applying generously.
>>10330623I should perhaps also mention that I usually thin it with Mr Levelling Thinner.
>>10330639oh yeah that's my thinner of choice for everything. works really well with just about anything save plastic acrylics, and the odor is minimal.it's why I hate having to use X-22. it's a fantastic varnish from what little experience I can glean using it, but the stench is awful. I probably already have cancer from it.if only Vallejo's acrylic varnish was stronger and could withstand pin washes of enamel thinner and oil paint, I wouldn't have to do this to myself.>>10330578makes sense. 3M is always a pretty solid bet by my understanding. thanks
>>10330300>how long does cleaning the airbrush take?Not long at all once you've done it a couple of times. At first you'll be very precious with an airbrush and treat it like it's fragile and ready to explode, but that will wear off and it'll become just another tool. I've always found that too many people who airbrush make it seem like it's more complicated than it is, I dunno maybe it makes them feel like they've gained esoteric knowledge or something. But the truth is, by and large it's dead easy and just a matter of doing it until you know how.
>>10330641>plastic acrylicsfucking what lmao
>>10330750whatever the fuck the term is called for Vallejo-type paints. water-based acrylics? whatever, I had a brainfart. as opposed to the solvent acrylics like Tamiya and Aqueous Color
>>10330524I have a 3M, something like paint project Make sure you buy the type of filter suitable for what you are sprayingI spray acrylics so it's not as hard if I were to spray lacquers
>>10330839>Make sure you buy the type of filter suitable for what you are sprayingIe particle filters and organic vapour filters, the former sitting on top of the latter so you don't gunk up the fume catcher with paint droplets.
>>10327917Not done but getting closer
>>10326651just mask off and airbrush the details. it can often be very tedious and time consuming but it's still better than brush painting if you don't enjoy it (i certainly don't)>>10327111qidi tech store on ali has their shadow 5.5s sla printer 65% off atm, i've been thinking about grabbing one myself>>10330300>how long does cleaning the airbrush take?couple of minutes max. most of the time just blasting some hardware store lacquer thinner through it (or just isopropyl alcohol if you're using water-based or alcohol-based paints rather than lacquers) is enough, but you'll usually want to wipe the needle off and maybe give the inside of the nozzle a scrape with the needle tool as well just to make sure. you almost never need to do a full strip down and deep clean, i only do that once a year
>>10330884Takes me around 15 minutes to clean my airbrush at end of use, that time is decreasing as I get more familiar with it.Blast isopropyl, wipe out the cup, blast more, wipe more, blast again, wipe more, break up the primer chunks that accumulate, blast some more and wipe it out again. Take needle out, clean needle. Clean the bottom of the cup. Stab self with needle. Thin the blood and blast it into mouth. Needle back in successfully. Job well done.
>>10330921>isopropylI just got my new airbrush and I haven’t tried it yet but I bought some Vallejo airbrush cleaner. Is this stuff scam tier? If isopropyl alcohol works just as good I might as well return the cleaner.
>>10331061If you're using WBA, use the Vallejo stuff first. Also get and try some Iso. Then you will be able to decide which you think works better. Vallejo is not scam tier. It does work, and it works very well, and for me it's not a question what to use. I've tried a lot of shit, nothing cleans out the crap like the Vallejo stuff. Your mileage may vary, never take anyone's word on it.
>>10331080ipa works just as well in my experience
>>10331081Right. And it might work for him. But I used Iso for a year and had nothing but trouble, the Vallejo shit is easier and quicker and I swear by it. You won't change my mind on it because I've been through the gamut of products and vallejo won. That's why I said not to take anyone's word on it, it is essential to try different things and decide for yourself.
>>10331080>>10331083Does the vallejo only work well when using acrylics or is it also good for cleaning out enamels, lacquers etc?
>>10331088It works a treat for WBA, can't say for the rest. Iso might work better on those. Iso has the virtue of being cheap and easy to find, so it wouldn't hurt to have some on hand. The important thing is that whatever you use does the job.
>>10331083yeah i agree with you, was just putting my 2c in. half of the information in these threads is just shit that someone's dad's uncle's dog allegedly told them 20 years ago and they just took them at their word and never tried it themselves. there's so much wrong "advice" around because people don't actually try things>>10331088i've only tried vallejo on acrylics but i can tell you that ipa is only good for acrylics and is garbage for cleaning lacquers and enamels. you'll want some hardware store lacquer thinner to clean those easily. ipa WILL work to loosen up dried lacquer/enamel (and can be used as a cheap paint stripper for them that won't damage your styrene), but you have to get in there and scrub it whereas lacquer thinner will just quickly dissolve them so you can just blast a cup of thinner through and be done with it rather than have to manually wipe everything down
>>10331101There's a lack of consensus because individual experience varies. There are unaccounted factors. I have no doubt different stuff people use works for them, but equally no doubt that such an experience is not universal. I do a lot of stuff in the miniature community, which largely uses WBA, and whenever I find somebody with airbrush trouble the vallejo sorts it out. Is there really a huge difference between it and Iso? I'm not a chemical engineer, don't know. Might not be. But one works for them, one doesn't. I don't care what anyone decides to use, just that whatever it is that it works.
>>10331111the main ingredient in vallejo's is 2-butoxyethanol, it's a pretty similar chemical to ipa but has slight surfactant properties and is less toxic
>>10331117Well, it should also be noted that as my primary experience with WBA comes from the miniature side I may be running into more outliers, too. For models the selection of WBA in common use is probably relatively small, but the WBA for minipainting is vast. While they are all miscable and broadly similar, they are also each different. So for scale modeling, it might turn out that IPA works just as good and most of the time you'd never notice a difference. But I'm running into more weird shit like P3, Coat D'Arms, maybe GW. Some of these might be harder nuts for IPA to crack, and it just happens that the vallejo cleaner eats through those well, too. There's definitely strong variance between brands. Reaper paint you can practically clean away just with water, VMC pigment tends to linger when rinsing with water and Stynylrez just latches onto everything.
>>10331061I also have the vallejo.It seems more soapy than the isopropyl.The isopropyl cuts everything that I throw through the airbrush (Mr Retarder / Mr Thinner, Tamiya Acrylics and Lacquer Paints).I use the vallejo once everything is looking very clean. Mostly on account that I have a bunch of iso, and not much of the vallejo.It seems to work fine, I'm happy to have both.For changing colours, I just use isopropyl to flush, get the paint out and aim to end up with a clean stream.
reminder that the maschinen krieger aussie guy suffered a stroke from huffing too much paints.Use a respirator and an airbrush booth.
>>10331327>the maschinen krieger aussie guywho?
Can you get away with using no respirator for WBA paints or am I slowly killing myself
>>10331338Twitterbro is that you?
>>10331343No im just a cheapskate
>>10331333Lincoln Wright (paintonplastic) I assume. I doubt it was huffing paint though.
>>10331338No you aren't killing yourself you're just going to develop breathing problems WBA are really not that bad, expect a bit of light wheezing
Which brand to get for T54/55 in 1/35?
>>10331338While I confess I'm often quite sloppy about proper protection, sometimes merely tearing a cereal box in half to serve as a backdrop overspray shield, it would be wise to try and wear at least an N95 mask while spraying. The particles will tend to settle quickly and not linger about so 5-10 minutes should be fine. The particulates themselves are perhaps not grossly toxic, but unless you fancy a doctor telling you that you've got a spot on your lungs and your first question is "what colour is it?" then take the precaution. It should go without saying that you should likewise escort any cats, dogs, or kidnapped delivery girls out of the area until spraying is complete.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L5NLcmHWKDUFine molds interview.
>>10331534Miniart if you want the most accurate. RFM just released a T-55 it might be good too.
>>10331573Thanks. Too bad my local sellers only have takom, trumpeter, and tamiya atm.
>>10331569Finemolds is Japanese? I assumed they were chink or nondescript eastern euro
>>10331542I can only assume you're talking about spraying water based paint because the main concern is prolonged exposure to organic solvents
>>10331705You don't have to assume anything, since the post that post replied to specified spraying water-based paints without a respirator.
>find 1/70 scale model kit of the HMS Terror>become excited as fuck because it'd be a dream to get a model of the ship>look through the details of the model>stern cabin windows are literally just photoetch + blue paper Well that sucksIdk how I could add a inner compartment though
>>10331711You could always try scratch building it from styrene and other stuff (probably hard though, I wouldnt know)
>>10331711There's a Terror model that isn't the Occre wooden one?Most plastic sailing ship models are from the 60s too so don't expect much
>>10331715Yeah I need to look into itIf I can't then I'm not going to get the kit because it'd ruin it for me>>10331716The Occre kit yeah
>>10331711Is that the OcCre one? If so, it looks like there's space between the ribforms. You could cut out some of the form near the center, add a small deck, and put some stuff in. It wouldn't need to be a full cabin or even very deep to sell the effect and so long as you didn't cut too much of it away towards outboard then it shouldn't compromise integrity.
>>10331711Hang on, I'll make a crude illustration to show what I mean here >>10331719 since I couldn't find a higher res pic of the instructions.
>>10331722So it looks like the hull construction is a solid center piece that the hullform "ribs" slot into. That means you've got more slotted together than you necessarily need. So in the illustration, the gold line represents the windows. You could carve out some of the center where the two join and this should be deep enough to sell it without being so deep you cut all the way through the join. The green box is a small cabin, red is a larger. In either case, you'd want to essentiall make a box with a floor and three walls. Cut the walls to the height of the ribs. You may wish to add posts in the interior corners. This is not easy work, but if you really wanted a cabin in there then it is possible to do it and the resulting structure, thanks to a well-built box, would probably be an even stronger structure for the planking and decking. If you don't intend to light it, it doesn't need to be a lot in there.
>>10331724>>10331722>>10331719I don't want to light it, I just want to look in there and see somethingThanks for trying to figure it out for meYeah I was worried about the integrity if I cut into it but as you said maybe a cabin would be strong enoughI wonder if I'd even need to use wood, maybe plastic and some paint would look good enough from outside?
>>10331743If you're careful about cutting the cabin parts (plastic is fine to use) then all you'd need to do is put vertical posts (plastruct might do) to reinforce any 90-degree join. For the wall pieces to each other, and also superglue some where the walls attach to the ribs. If you do enough of that, that will be built like a tank and probably be the strongest part of the whole ship. Paint the box and add some appropriate furniture and you'd be good to go. It's the cutting the stuff properly part that's the real job.
>>10331757>>10331743Here's a revision of the crude illustration to show where you might put posts. The ones inside the box would be barely visible from outside, and this is of course not to scale so they wouldn't have to be huge. Or as many. But this sort of thing you'd have space for and the modification would be solid.
Also, I don't know what tools you might have for this sort of thing but you'd probably need a coping saw for the wood and at least one square (pic related). You can get small coping saws and squares just about any hardware place. If you get two squares you can fashion a jig out of them when you make the box to keep it all together. Almost any kind of saw would cut the wood, but the coping saw's empty space would make it handy for the turns where you have to cut out the center.
>>10331772>cutting wood with a squaredo zoomers really?
>>10331783Are you autistic?
>>10331789I just know how to work with my hands without massive crutches
>>10331804You are going to see a whole new world when you figure out how humans use tools.
>>10331808I've been a woodworker for 20+ years retardLiterally just get good
>>10331811A pretty shit one if you don't know why a square is useful when building a box composed of right angles. Or maybe you just can't read.
>>10331814Or i'm not a child and know how to use my tools without relying on babyshitI fear for the future generations if things are this bad...
>>10331824Are you also frightened by levels?
Story time bros. Some time ago, lead by morbid curiosity, I bought cheap ass 1/72 Leopard 2a5 made by XF(or according to ScaleMates CC XF) from Aliexpress. This one: https://pl.aliexpress.com/item/1005002857855426.html?spm=a2g0o.store_pc_groupList.8148356.55.2f1d1f49FhJQc4&pdp_npi=2%40dis%21PLN%2142%2C57%20z%C5%82%2134%2C06%20z%C5%82%2134%2C06%20z%C5%82%21%21%21%21%40210318b916791420019735399e9bfe%2112000022501906344%21shIt take about 3 week to ship from mainland Taiwan to me in sounthern Kurwaland. Packed was neat altough lacking necessary amortisation like styrofoam or shit. Now that I have it in my filthy, greasy hands, I'm gonna do some review. Kit comes in 5 big parts( 2 part hull, 2 parts turret, tracks) one sprue with details, that black thingy for ceonnecting turret and hull, decals and instruction. Our slanted eyed friends didn't included that fancy base you can see in the store, but that's not a problem for me. cont.
>>10331838Aggresively green plastic feels very brittle but detail seems nice. Super simple but nice. There's kinda interesting engeenering in building the hull where you need too hook part of one element to another and then glue the rest. Bit like snapfit but not. cont.
>>10331843More hull detail.
>>10331844Turret comes in two parts. Dry fit was weird. It was tight in one place but left a gap in another. That says a lot about kit quality.
>>10331849Tracks comes in one piece. That solid rectangle with hole at the top of them is what I was talking earlier. You need to hook it up on a protruding piece of lower hull and then glue the rest.
>>10331853Details sprue. Everything feels so flimsy that I feel like breathing heavier near them will cause them to break. Good thing they included spares.
>>10331856Decals. They're shit.
>>10331856Fuck me, m8, all of those spindly bits look fit to snap. God be with you getting them off the sprue in one piece.
>>10331861Oh, that solves a mystery. The XF logo on that box looks like the LEE logo on pic related. Which is also incredibly shit. It's like a knock-off of the old ESCI/AMT one only made even worse. But that decal sheet says C.C. Lee 2000 so I guess XF is the name they go by now.
>>10331861And now crème de la crème of this plastic diarrhea. Instructions. Since main body is easy and instinctive to figure out, looking on part two(next post) gave me a headache. Nothing is clearly show. You need to guess what is what and where it need to go. If I decide to make it, I thing I gonna throw this shit out and relie on reference pictures.
>>10331870Said part two. No cancer refunds. And that's all. No decals instructions or paintig guide. Nothing. Overall I give it 6/10. Half of the normal kit price is a good thing but I feel that I'll lost rest of the hair i got while assembling it. Seasoned modeller might make something out of it but get that away from rookies. If I had to compare it to anything, best would be Airfix Vintage series. Simmilar price and quality.
>>10331873All it's missing is a small tube of hardened glue that says "toothpaste" on it, then you'd have the full sketchy chinakit experience.
>>10331856>Everything feels so flimsyWhat, beyond the fact that it's 1/72?
>>10330846more like water-cringe heh
>>10331843>Aggresively green plastic feels very brittleCertain pigments do seem to make plastic more brittle so that checks out. It's an especially big problem for translucent plastics
>>10331923Dyes can be used too btw, but produce different results
>>10331856Someone put some details in your flash sprue
>revell 1/48 sabre dogis this a good kit?
>>10331327no, i don't think i will
What's a recommended ratio for thinning glosscoat? 2:1? 1:1? 1:2? Even thinner? Specifically Gunze and Tamiya gloss clear acrylic.
>>10332226I always use tamiya. Since I'm using a paintbrush, I just add water till it flows nicely. (Usually about 1:1, or 2:1 favoring water if it's acting a bit thick) That probably horrifies somebody out there, but it gives me good results.
>>10332226I just eyeball it coz im a pro
>>10330921>Takes me around 15 minutes to clean my airbrush What the fuck are you doing? Wipe out the cup, clean everything with airbrush cleaner and you're done. 2-3 minutes tops. >>10331061I use IPA a lot for 3d printing so I've also used it to strip off paint from figures. And compared to Tamiya airbrush cleaner it's fucking weak shit. The cleaner dissolves everything in seconds, for IPA I have to soak and rub, soak and rub.
What is everyone working on this weekend?
>>10331824You are the same anon, that's frightened by wet palettes and water based acrylics, right? LmaoThe absolute state of fucking boomers. Good on you for being able to use the internet, the dial-up modem treating you right, grandpa? I hope you don't use anything with wheels. Fucking zoomer inventions, I'll tell ya! Absolute retard-crutches! If you don't sled your own lumber from the woods using nothing but hemp rope and willow sticks you cut with your own fucking teeth, you're pretty much dead to me.
>>10332316Nothing scale model related. Or well I guess it still is scale models, but not in the sense that /smg/ is about. Got a shitload of boardgame minis to paint and I have been stress-drinking for the past month or so and been generally useless, somehow managed to get myself painting again and now am trying to keep the ball rolling.But should I finally destroy my backlog in terms of boardgame shit, I have a couple of dioramas to finish, my very first airplane kit to try out and then some 1/35 kits I want to complete because I finally got the display space to fit them, can take a break from 1/72.
>>10332299that's because tamiya's airbrush cleaner is acetone and methylethylketone, it's almost the same formula as their plastic cement
>>10332226the gunze I got are numbers 100 and 113 and need thinning 1:2 at least 1:3 works better for me in the 0.2 nozzle
>>10332316airfix mig-17 with some aftermarket stuff (FUCK aftermarket gun barrels that demand you drill a hole practically speaking the same diameter as the width of the part)
>>10332316I was going to do airbrushing to clean up my Wirbelwind before getting started on attaching the wheel assemblies, but I have to do airbrushing outside due to the ventilation required and it's 30 degrees outside right now.
>>10332353Neat I like mig 17's
>>10332351you varnish with a 0.2? you do you i guess but i always use my big needle for varnish and primer. >>10332226depends on needle/nozzle size. 1:3 sounds about right for 0.2 like >>10332351 said, but if you're using a 0.5 or 0.6 like most people do for varnishing 1:1 should be fine. 1:2 should be good for 0.3 or 0.4
>>10332349Yes, it is basically the thin plastic glue, which makes it eat through anything very well. Which is why one should use that to clean their airbrush instead of jumping through hoops on handicaps. I'm not familiar with other branded airbrush cleaners, so those might work just as well.
Had a dumb alternative history idea come to mind.>Poland accepts the Danzig ultimatum.>Stalin and Hitler don’t stop at the land concessions they get for obvious reasons >Poland starts getting picked apart until it eventually fights back >WWII starts a few months maybe a year or two latter with the Allies also at war with the Soviet Union >The Axis is now extremely unstable or even fractures now that the Soviets are by proxy part of it Anyone got any timeline suggestions or possible subjects to model? The winter war with Finland becoming a full fledged front and Finland becoming an allied power might be neat. Or the fascist states creating their own alliance to fight the “socialist menace.”
>>10332316Finally broke out of being lazy and now I'm suffering through white paint.
>>10332405Words can’t express how grateful I am my interest consist mostly of WWI- early Cold War armor and sci-fi shit so poorly slapped on with a brush winter camo is the standard to meet with white.
>>10332400>the fascist states creating their own alliance to fight the “socialist menace.”They already did have that in our timeline>Allies also at war with the Soviet Union possible>now that the Soviets are by proxy part of it Uhh yeah no, the German-Soviet co-operation was a fucking powder keg to begin with. Both sides waiting to backstab the other, the Germans just acted first.Finland might get backed by both the allies and the axis if Germany hasn't started any shit by then. At that point if anyone has any brains in Berlin, they would use that to make the Soviet Union the pariah state that Germany became when invading Poland. The baltics still exist and might get support, the allies and axis might have a sort of "the enemy of my enemy" situation that the allies and comintern had.
>>10332414>They already did have that in our timelineKind of envisioning had the Germans gotten closer to the Soviets Italy and Japan split off and become hostile forces to them with Mussolini or whoever become the perspective leader claiming Hitler has fallen to socialism given Germany already called itself National socialist as a state. With other axis members not particularly friendly to the Soviets like Romania or Hungary following behind.>Uhh yeah no, the German-Soviet co-operation was a fucking powder keg to begin with. Both sides waiting to backstab the other, the Germans just acted first.I imagine that as purely an alliance of convince and by the point of being effectively forced to work together simply because war has been declared on both. German command probably extremely uncomfortable at the closeness and having the bend over backwards to make propaganda justifying it. While Stalin being a paranoid schizophrenic constantly accuses the Germans of short changing him or very concerned with German equipment being one on one better then the Russian counterpart in most cases.
>>10332414>Germany becomes the enemy of my enemy >Allies go out of their way to not mention or even hide nazi crimes >massive embassies on Soviet wrong doings after the war >Hitler probably doesn’t live long after the 50s >Germany has internal power struggle assuming a successor is not specifically named >Cold War is now Free market democratic west vs fascist Central Europe >Russia becomes the split country with two identities.
>>10332405I hate white paint so much it's unreal
>>10332468use mr color gx white if you have an airbrush
With the parts themselves generally having no real indication on them for what goes where I instead have to rely on the manual being clear and precise enough to show exactly where each piece is supposed to go....well on the plus side the cockpit here is from what I've heard and have vague memories of seeing (Wasn't there an inside the cockpit video for this thing on youtube a while ago? Did I hallucinate that?) the kit interior is accurate to the order of "three man crew". So as long as the pilot's seat ends up roughly behind the windscreen and facing forward I can basically do whatever here.
And here's what I've done with it.
>>10315304That is a beautiful diorama If I were to do planes I'd want to display them like that, none of that glued to the wall or hanging from the ceiling bullshitI wonder how hard it'd be to get an accurate cut out of a carriers deck though
Theoretically how would the axis and the allies working together go in the scenario? Assuming a shrunken Poland and Finland being attacked are the line in the sand? I imagine axis member states would make allied movements more difficult than they needed to be if not outright impossible given general paranoia and not wanting the allies to see too much. Shipping lanes in the Baltics would probably be the main advantage; so the allied powers end up pushing down to Leningrad from Finland while axis forces push into old polish territories and drive towards Moscow.
>>10332532The other Nordic countries become some pretty important real estate here, Denmark and Sweden for Baltic shipping, Norway and Sweden to sneak in aid to Finland over land. So either have everyone invade them and/or have them join either side in the hopes of being able to keep the war at their border and not have the front go, say, from Trondheim to Sundsvall. Finland being amongst the allies in an extended winter war might make it relatively easy to get Sweden to jump in as well since they were already officially not neutral in the Winter War. Norway seemed a bit more dead set on "ain't nothing gonna happen", and Denmark is sadly a bit small and close to Germany for them to get much of a say in things I suspect.
>>10332548Assuming a scenario of all hell breaking loose on Stalin the Soviets attacking easy targets to try and outmaneuver their enemies similar to Germany early on in WWII seems likely. Estonian, Lithuanian, and Latvia getting rolled seems likely and the Soviet Air Force conducting bombing operations or actually trying to force drives into Sweden and Norway to cut off supply lines might be a move.The scenario pretty much dooms the Soviets, but the war may still drag on awhile given the extra territory Germany would have to cover might still deny them Moscow before the winter sets in and supplies begin to run low while the allies would be fighting in an incredibly unpleasant sector.
>>10332316going to try and do pinwash and weathering on my Ha Go, want to try and finish the kit before the local convention (first since COVID) next Saturday. definitely not good enough for an award but I'd like to submit it anyway.
>>10332468Don't be a turbiretard and just airbrush ink or art grade paints like liquitex or golden , then varnish if it's the final layer
>>10332532Late 41-42 would be a very interesting period assuming the Soviets hold out that long. FDR would be in a very Awkward position as a socialist and someone who had been relatively friendly to the Soviets up to the assumed break out of the war in march 1940. Couple that with the third term drama and he would either need to actively denounce the Soviets which would be very likely or he would face a potential uphill battle instead of a solid victory.Japan also become more of a wild card assuming they take the opportunity to jump the Soviets they would exhaust their reserves even faster then just in china, but the US may never cut them off from oil as that would look like aiding the Soviets.
>>10332316Finally have a free Sunday (work six days a week, and usually have bullshit dropped in my lap on Sundays too), already gloss-coated the 1:48 J-10A today, if it's dry enough tomorrow finally gonna start trowing on decals.
>>10332299doesn't seem to be that easy when im getting rid of mr hobby primer, that shit loves to gunk up. i'm usually priming and painting in the same sitting.
>>10332609that being said, more than happy to spend some money, i'll see about grabbing some of the tamiya airbrush cleaner. I'm on the fence about picking up some cellulose thinners. Unsure if they'll do anything. Would like to figure out a nice way to strip models, as I'd like to rinse and repeat with spraying, doing clear coats, polishing, and starting again. I mostly do cars. The tamiya paint stripper seems costly. Dettol worked, but left a bit of residue and stank. Neat isopropyl didn't really touch several year old primer/acrylic. Soda crystals also didn't touch the several year old primer/acrylic, but strip Tamiya chrome beautifully.
I've been airbrushing vallejo model paint and model air for a while now with the vallejo primer but for my next project I want to try something elseI don't want to airbrush lacquers but I'm happy to spray it from a canWhat are my options?
>>10332621cellulose thinner will clean out lacquer paints the same as if not better than tamiya airbrush cleaner, and is much cheaperyou do not want to use either cellulose thinner or tamiya airbrush cleaner to strip models, both of them will dissolve styrene. isopropyl should strip anything, just soak it overnight. i've never had trouble stripping acrylics or lacquers with 99% ipa
>>10332624>I don't want to airbrush lacquers but I'm happy to spray it from a canwhat? why?
>>10332621The airbrush cleaner is literally plastic glue though, so watch out when using it for stripping models. For cleaning the airbrush it's more than worth it's price though. Also you can refill your extra thin cement from the same bottle.
>>10332642appreciate the insight, thanks anon. Will give a couple more parts a shot with iso stripping. The tamiya airbrush cleaner seems non existent in bongland so I'll swerve getting that for the time being.Do I need to worry about o-rings or anything with the cellulose thinners? I have an Iwata Eclipse CS.
>>10332646Because if I have to I can just go outside in the open and spray what I need, I can't do that with my airbrush set upI'm only thinking about using a spray can if i'm using a metal primer or a better than vallejo primer
>>10332652no, iwata (and any other good airbrush brand) seals are solvent resistant. it's only cheap chinkshit brushes that use crappy rubber seals that you have to watch out for
>>10332316Putting together the fuselage of my Eduard 1/48 Hawker Tempest. Also went to the city and once again supermarket had a new Revell kit I hadnt seen before, after a quick look at scalemates I bought a 1/350 Type VIIC U-boat. Put the hull sides and deck together. Lots of fine surface detail and seems to be based on Revell´s 1/72 and 1/144 U-boats, just scaled down.And it was only 9 euros.
>>10332648I did read that it was the same thing, makes sense, I'll pick some up if it's ever available here, or the cellulose thinners don't work out.>>10332659that's a relief, good to know, thanks.
>>10330875Done for the most part
>>10332468>>10332471>>10332410Gotta say this dang ol Mr. Color did pretty well. I primed the parts in gloss black like a retard too.
>>10315304if anyone is interested, the paint used here is ColourCoats by sovereign hobby, who posts a lot on brit modeller and seems to know what he's talking about in terms of historically accurate enamel paintI've picked up the glossy sea blue for my late war corsair and it seem pleasant, excited to work with it
>>10332758Pretty sexy ride, m8
>>10332832ty I hadn't built a model in months I need to build something else now
>>10332758very nice, what is this a Chevelle?if I ever did cars I'd just make muscle cars from the 60s and 70s, I'm autistic for them, they're all beautiful. every single onetoo bad all the toolings were made when the cars themselves were still being built
>>10332871It’s a 1971 Oldsmobile 442 w-30. You should check out some of the revell kits, they actually come together pretty nicely unlike amt. Speaking of chevelles I built the amt 1970 chevelle kit and it was a total mess. The body was warped, nothing fit right I don’t even know why I built it instead of tossing it in the trash.
>>10332883oops just realized I have to cut the decals for the deepened door panel lines. Revell just re released this 1970 road runner kit very recently , looks to go together with out issue according to some videos I've seen.
>>10331717Have you built any plank-on-bulkhead models before?
>>10331873I was a bit surprised at those instruction but comparing with the sprue, you have to commend the artist for capturing the crude moulding, even reproducing the flash on the wing mirrors.
if I were to submit a built to a convention, I'll have to stay until the very end, right? when do judges go around grading submitted stuff? should I just get there once it opens and be there all day?the convention is, I think, in a kind of bad part of town (aka lots of poor blacks) and I don't really want to leave my car hanging out around there for more than just a few hours.
>>10333046No, you can enter your item and leave until the awards are given out. Judging time/date should be posted somewhere there, along with the award ceremony time. If not, just ask. They will also tell you when to come pick up your item.
>>10333098thanks. I'll probably just email one of the organizers. it's all boomers who run this shit so they don't even have a website, I had to furiously google for possible local conventions before I even found their flyer online.
>>10332883Is this a revell salesman?
How hard would it be to make a 1/72 scale model of pic related?Could a 4K resin printer print the railings?
>>10333337easily as long as you're not retarded and understand how your tool works
>>10333338Do you think 1/72 scale is the right scale for it?
>>10333339you're the one making a diorama or whatever it is you want to use this forentirely up to you
>>10332370>you varnish with a 0.2?it's enough for 1/72, I can't get the pressure or the dilution right with 0.4 and the bigger oversprays a shitton
>>10332514>>10332515good job salvaging that kit
>>10333337Dude, Pakis and Indians are able to make impressive R/C scale models out of fucking PVC pipes, spare electronics and trash lying about. I'm pretty sure you can handle this red box (what is this btw?)Railings can be made out of copper wire and soldered together
>>10332760>japs make the superior white
>>10333337>he needs a printer for a red box with some twiggy railingsngmiand now for real:>go to your local hobby store>get the ultra thin polysterene sheets>get the thinnest plastic rods they have or some 0.3mm cable>go to workeven the sat dishes can be scratchbuilt with ease, you dumb nigger
>>10333360geriatric hands typed this post
Is it possible to scratch build a scale model of a mechanical watch?You could design the parts and then print them
>>10331716>Most plastic sailing ship models are from the 60s too so don't expect muchwhy does it have to be like this
>>10333356Yeah but if he does that the gypsies will come rob the railings overnight.Does anyone happen to have a reference for mixing automotive colours from tamiya paints? Tried googling, found a bunch of stuff for military colours but nothing for me blooty cars.
>>10333363probably not geriatric but just too poor to buy a chinese $150 resin printer
>>10333391It's possible to scratch build a scale model of anything. Do you have the skills to do so?
>>10333402In the 50s and 60s when they started transitioning from purely wooden models to injection plastic models I guess sailing ships (and cars) were the best subjects they had and due to how the technology works some of those molds are still around being used by Revell and Airfix
>>10333391Possible? Yes?Practical? Only if it's a visual display piece because resin wouldn'treally be able to hold tolerances at the level required for mechanical watch to run and would not be durable enough to run for long
>>10333414>Does anyone happen to have a reference for mixing automotive colours from tamiya paints?Learn how color actually works and just mix that shit yourself
>>10333478what if you used the abs-like resin
Can you guys recommend me a brand that sell synthetic in-scale leaves in big packs at an affordable price?
>>10333391...what scale are you thinking about? Because these are already "pincers and loupe" kind of things at 1:1.
>>10333494Good luck maintaining tolerances with SLA lmao
>>10332316Expanding the modeling area.I partitioned off a room for my recently installed air handler, so I doubled that area up as a storage room. Got all my household tools in there now, allowing me to demolish two existing rough workbenches that were in the far corner. Framed and sheathed, built that large storage case which allowed for more demolishing of existing shelves elsewhere in the basement. That little guy in the middle has been around for a while, just getting painted now. I reused as much material from the broken down benches and shelving as possible, which made for a more rigid step by step process. I spent a good 11hrs on this yesterday Anyway, that open corner will be another 'L' bench, ~8'x3'. It won't connect with the existing one, maybe an 8" gap between the two for future shelving/storage. On the other end It will tie into the large storage case. I don't plan on any fancy shelving like the other side, just a single shelf in line with the height of the other side, with some under cabinet LEDs for work area lighting. It's gonna house my 3D printing station, as well as adding plenty of working room for large models like ships. May also invest in some bench top machine tools too if there's enough room.Spring cleaning now. Kicked up a shit ton of dust, every surface is being cleaned. Maybe after I'll get back to my pion
>>10333337>How hard would it be to make a 1/72 scale model of pic related?Depends on your skill level and dedication>Could a 4K resin printer print the railings?'YesBut it's pretty dumb to print so delicate details that you could make out of polystyrene strips instead that won't be so brittle.
>>10333592it would be even smarter to print a mould and cast them with putty
I hate how pale yellow decals can turn out
>>10333611it's almost like colors look different against different colors, who could've known (certainly not the thirdgraders that figure this stuff out in school)
>>10332400Robert Taft becomes president of the US and supplies Germany with military hardware to own the Brits.
>>10333611Looks yellow to me. How do you want it to be?
>>10333619IRL it's really pale. Pic is the real thing for comparison, it almost goes into orange. >>10333613Nigger.
>>10333613>It's upsetting that X happens the way it does.>WELL DUH YOU STUPID IDIOT, WE LEARNED THAT IN 3rd GRADE, HOW DID YOU NOT KNOW THAT? IT'S ALMOST LIKE.... YOU'RE UNEDUCATED!You are a retarded nigger and you should be ashamed
>>10333598Most putty is as brittle as 3d resin. Styrene strips are really really flexible. Perfect for this application.
>>10333598>>10333634abs-like resin is a lot less brittle however i do agree that just building it from styrene rod would be better. no need to whip the printer out for such a simple thing. would probably be faster too
>>10333588Very nice anon
>>10333624>>10333632>t. didn't study in school
>>10333634>he never cast with sprue goo
>>10333418>he bought $150 chinkshit resin printerno wonder you're retarded, you must be swimming in fumes
>>10333588I gotta get a house ASAP and do the same as you, OCDanonthe flat is getting mighty cramped with the daughter being born in a month, I'm forced to airbrush on the balcony...
>>10333677turns out there's a little thing called "ventilation" you can utilise to extract harmful fumes to outside! the more you know! it also has carbon filters but i'm not sure i trust them>>10333676have fun with tons of bubbles and massive shrinkage
>>10333683I have a fan extractor but it's simply not efficient enough plus I'm running out of space for storageshe gonna need the room for herself in a few years, plus we want to make more of the lil' bastards, so daddy needs a study
>>10333683>have fun with tons of bubbles and massive shrinkageskill issue
>>10333692>she gonna need the room for herself in a few years,cuck
Cleanliness has been restored, may actually model something today.>>10333660thank you. I may post pics when done, be a week or two. Waiting on brackets now>>10333680having your own home to go full retard in is best. I went from shared computer desk -> dedicated little desk -> small work bench -> 'L' bench -> two 'L' benches. Just a tip, I think it'd be pretty hard to get it all right on the first try. There are annoyances or nice to haves that only reveal themselves as you use your workspace. Give yourself plenty of room to grow, and make it so disassembly for rework isn't completely destructive.
>>10333481Manufacturer probably have a color standard you can convert to FS or Pantone and then find that in model paints. Same as US military planes have FS paint codes (FS as in Federal Standard), or nazi planes having RLM codes.
>>10333784learn color theory. colorblind artists exist and they use color theory plus knowledge of where their own color vision fails to produce the correct colors
>>10333337Cardboard for most of it. For the railings surely there is something railway knocking around. Failing its regular enough I'd be tempted to do my own photo-etch before I'd resin print it.
>>10333677>he bought $150 chinkshit resin printerAll of them are made in china you retard. And most of them are cheaper than actual printers. It's a screw, LCD screen and a few lamps afterall, you mongoloid. >>10333723Oh look it's mr boomeranon again. I hope you make your own glue from horse bones, otherwise you're basically a helpless baby.
>>10332316Hopefully finish the soldiers and wheels for my Type 1 Ho-Ni.Then I'll start priming my Stylet and prep the parts to be painted.If I have extra time, I can also start sanding my resin kit for GuP.
>>10333833>If I have extra time, I can also start sanding my resin kit for GuP.based guppie enjoyer
>>10333840I feel threatened by gays in tanks.Gays in tanks is my worst nightmare.
>>10333845>10333845you don't want to know how many furries there in the tank crews then desu
>>10333434feels bad getting very little interest in comfy age of soul though, despite them being the best ships. instead everyone is making a million iterations of identical ww2s
Anyone have experience airbrushing with createx wicked colors?
>>10333792what a stud, cheers
>>10333356Are they accurate to the scale that they're using though? I could solder them but I'm not sure how clean I could get the joints and whether it'd look accurate under a magnifying glassIt's the Polar Environment Atmospheric Research Laboratory btw>>10333360Well yeah obviously I'm going to scratchbuild it, I'm just going to use a 3D printer for the detailsThe satellites seem like they'd be difficult to scratchbuild by hand at least accurately to 1/72>>10333592I'm still looking for good photos of the railings but they seem like round bars so strips would be wrong
>>10333976you can get styrene rod in diameters as low as 0.3mm
>>10333976Are people going to be looking at the model with a microscope? Because if not you could probably cut a non-California compliant straw into pieces and make that station.
>>10333611At least you had a grey background and not, say, a deep blue.
>>10334155Adjust your monitor, it's Gunze 61, as recommended.
>>10334155NVM I can't read.
>>10333613It's a tiny marginal difference in grey, you colourblind git, and not enough to account for the deviance in the yellow. The yellow of the decals isn't warm enough, and even a cursory glance at pictures under varied light conditions will reveal this. There's more than one yellow.
No one to speak ill of the dead but goddamn I hate kitty hawk so much
Since the thread is naval aviation edition I finally finished the Eduard/ special hobby/airfix seafire Mk III conversion. The thing was a bitch to get through on multiple occasions but I'm happy it's done, plus I think I might be the first to have done this conversion with the Eduard kit, but probably not
>>10334507And here's the final shot with the Corsair Mk.II. The size comparison is wild with how small the seafire is. Only other aircraft I'm needing to build to finish my Pacific FAA collection will be a hellcat, a Firefly, a barracuda, a martlet and an avenger.
Cool, I'm excited. Slated for May. It's likely the B team like their 490B but I can't complain.
>>10334490>>10334497>>10334507>>10334516I like it, well done.
>>10334516Love the corsair
Hobby Boss needs to speed their 1/72 releases the fuck up cause I need my S300 sam battery NOW.I just really hope W-Model doesn't give me the run around so I can get the clamshell mast radar to go with it too.
>>10334734Too bad fagTigers are what you get
>>10334746God I fucking love tigers so fucking muchIF FUCKING LVOE TIGERS BRO
reminder that there are more unique kits of tigers than actual produced tanks
>>10334855Someone should do a limited run of 1347 (total production number for Tigers) boxes, where each box has the sprues and decal sheet for a different irl Tiger. Knowing how autistic German record keeping was I wouldn't be surprised if we know the units and turret numbers of all of them. Camo pattern we can guess by what regulation was in place at that given time.
>take normal 1/35 figure>sculpt on specific uniformDoes this work?
>>10334888Btw by does this work I mean does this work for someone who has no sculpting skills
>>10334890Can you do it? Yes. Can you do it without skills? Yes. Can you do it well without skills? Probably not. But as there is no better way to acquire skills than by doing it, you should.
Any aviation expertsIf I built a what if the f16xl won, which hardpoint would the big ticket missiles like harpoon and jassm go on?
>>10334927Most likely on the hardpoints used for the droptanks in this picture, or, if using droptanks, on a hardpoint just inboard and forward of there. XL has lots of possible hardpoint configurations. Really, just play around with what looks right.
>>10334927centerline and innermost wing pylons>why?the other hardpoints are weaker because they're further out on a (relatively) thin wing>source?I made it up.
>>10334947>>10334948Gotcha, thanks babesHave another what-if plane as thanks
>>10334927>>10334959Here you go friendo
My last kit was a Starfix kit, anons... I need a mojo restorer, my options are:Airfix Old Tool 1/72 Bristol BlenheimHasegawa 1960 tool 1/72 T-38 (Minicraft Thunderbids boxing) (Cracked canopy)Lindberg 1/96 Handley Page VictorMPM 1/72 PT-19 (1990s boxing)Any suggestions?
>>10334959Is this the Freedom 1/48 kit? How does it build?
>>10334516hold up, this isn't /48 and /32 one next to the other? whoagreat weathering btw
>>10335220American planes were huge in WWII, especially anything which mounted a P&W Double Wasp, which was (and iirc still is) one of the biggest piston aircraft engines ever made
>>10335231Wasp Major is larger, but was less reliable.Double Wasp - F4U CorsairWasp Major - F2G Super Corsair, B-36
>>10335268well yes, but the Wasp Major wasn't really widely used. something like 60,000 Double Wasps were made. should have clarified
>every time I've tried an oil dot filter on my tanks I've messed it upshould I just do a pin/rivet wash this time?
>>10335272It is alright. The Duplex Cyclone was another large engine that also had some widespread usage.
>>10335277what kind of surface are you doing your dot filter on? I've found I need a satin coat to smooth out my mongoloid acrylic airbrush jobs. Lets my dots actually blend, before they would stain and be almost impossible to remove
>>10335387I always go gloss. I only use matte when the model is finished. never used satin before for pre-weathering or decals as I've been told gloss is just superior for that
>>10335121>My last kit was a Starfix kitOh? Which of the little horrors did you do?
>>10335396Gloss is great for decals and can be good for pin washes, but for filters (dot or not) you generally want satin so the stuff has something to grab on to and (slightly) stain.
>>10335123Yeah. There are seam lines so prepare your putty and details on things like missile fins are pretty thick (I’m using aftermarket resin). They share many sprues with AFV clubs f5 so that can be a baseline to compare to. I haven’t built many (any) 1/48 planes but it’s definitely worse than something like, say, Trumpeter’s 1/72 mig-29smt.
>>10335480makes sense. maybe I'll get a bottle of some stuff and try it next time.in the meantime I tried some very light filtering, this time I actually thinned down the oil paints before applying the dots, and took extra pains to make sure the smudging brush was only very slightly damp. I like the result, but it's really just something only experience can teach
>snagged the last s300 C2 command truck modelcollect kit on earth at a reasonable price>grumble in the mailFuck it's gonna be so kino, I can feel it coming together bros
>>10335483It should probably be better than what I am used to.
>>10335441Kit was the 1.72 Alpha Jet.> Matchbox knockoff (the worst kit they ever made btw)> Short shot in two places on the fuselage> Starfix F-5 canopy. (Had to be cut and glued section by section with careful sanding to get the length right).> Wings needed a hacksaw to correct their shape (I am not even exaggerating).> Fuselage had almost as much filler as plastic.> Gaps that could not be filled.> Details had to be sanded off and new ones had to be made.> Elevators had no anhedral like the original, so that had to be corrected.> Vertical stab (part of the fuselage needed to be removed, resized and reshaped.> No good decals, plus only the French nose was in the kit. Markings were hand painted (poorly).The result looks bad, but better than what the original kit would have looked like.
if I want to apply a good amount of pigment and give it a bit of a goopy look with a nice gradient/transition to dust, what should I use to achieve that kind of texture? PVA glue or lacquer thinner or something? I already have a bottle of pigment fixer I can use afterward.
>>10332574The sag is incredible but the exhaust isn't very impressive
>>10335715my phone camera fucking sucks. I promise it looks really nice in person.thanks for the compliment tho
>AMT putting out models with NEW toolingWhat sort of alternate reality am I living in?https://www.autoworldstore.com/products/pre-order-amt-1968-pontiac-gto-hardtop-craftsman-plus-1-25-scale-model-kit-due-late-february-2023?_pos=2&_sid=b7f2bc696&_ss=r
>>10335746>1968 Pontiac GTO hardtopholy fucking shit, this is basically my dream caram I going to have to become a carmodelerfag?
Are there airbrushes that allow for multiple needle sizes to be used?
>>10335750I just watched a video on it and it's a "simplified" model with no actual engine or anything cool. I thought AMT might have redeemed themselves but I guess not.
>>10335587Having built a Starfix or two, I'm impressed that you even bothered to put that much work into fixing it. Those things are straight fucking dogs. I salute your madness, sir.
>>10335757pretty sure most airbrushes have at least 1 alternate needle size you can get, but harder & steenbeck's airbrushes are compatible with their entire range of sizes. i have 0.15, 0.2, 0.4, and 0.6 for my evolution