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Finns > Disgusting Svede's edition

Build more Scandinavian AFV's

Previous thread: >>10209231

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful. ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US/PL)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
https://agtom.eu/en/(PL/EU)
https://exito.site/en_GB/index(PL/EU)
https://m-zone.pl (PL only)
>>
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1st for Suomi
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Finally a good edition
>>
>Finland edition thread
>BT-42 kit just arrived in mail
Pure coincidence or meme magicks?
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>>10224408
No such thing as coincidence anon.....
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Another pic of the bote. Currently working on a whaler and looking for some 1/48 crewmen (harder than I thought)
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effort on something il never look at
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Is doing a Finnish Leo2A4 in their ww2 camo scheme cringe or based
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>>10224448
based, but only if the swastikas are big
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>>10224444
that's a WIP of heat discolouration or some metal goes neon verdigris from heat?
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>>10224492
NTA, but he might be going for the aliexpress exhaust system look
>>
I just realized I’ve entered the boomer hoarding cycle
Send help asap
>>
>>10224545
stop buying models, shrimple as
>>
>>10224444
Bro your low quality chinesium exhaust is corroding away
>>
>>10223300
Now my gloss coat is way too thick and it's even bulged a little on the wings because they slope downwards when it's drying upside-down. It's over. At least I had the sense to coat the underside first, hopefully I won't fuck up the top as much.
>>
>>10224545
I feel I'm beginning to be the same, I'm currently waiting on 3 packages with 2 being from the same store because they got in new stock a few days after I placed a boxing day sale order
>>
>>10224545
give all your money to wife/gf and let her give you allowance
>>
>>10224618
>wife/gf

haha....
>>
>>10224615
Practice first on some plastic card/spoon/whatever and see what spraying distance and technique works.
Make sure you also shook the can enough, and having it be warm presumably also helps.
That and also don't be an absolute fucking retard.
>>
>>10224636
I definitely failed at that last hurdle.
>>
>>10224657
That makes two of us.
At least you didn't spray over clear parts lmao
>>
>>10224615
Did you unironically held your spray right in front of the model and kept blasting it with varnish?

Anon, are you retarded? Have you never used a spray can in your life?
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>>10224545
I've long surpassed that point and I'm barely 30
>>10224559
I'm trying this but they keep fucking releasing shit I want, it's like every company suddenly decided at the same time to get back into obscure cold war shit to fuck me over.
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>>10224736
>it's like every company suddenly decided at the same time to get back into obscure cold war shit
Almost like there's a big war right near relevant countries that's being fought by thirdworlders using obscure cold war shit
>>
>>10224731
It was probably about 15cm away this time, I think I just prayed too much in one go.
>>
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the small box was more than the big box
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I got a headache looking at the manual
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>>10224877
many such cases
>>10224891
looks super fun, I love doing this stuff with an audiobook playing in the background
>>
I feel like 3d printing has ruined this hobby for me
Only way I can salvage it is by getting into 3d printing myself
>>
>>10224545
I think its not terminal before you start buying multiples of every kit you buy (in case you want to build another one) although buying decal sheets and aftermarket for kits you don't even own, in case they disappear, is extremely dangerous.
>>
Do model kits of HO scale trains and rolling stock exist? As in assemble and paint it yourself?
>>
POST YOUR PAINT STORAGE SOLUTION RIGHT NOW OR UR A FUCKING FAGGOT
>>
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>>10225219
just keep it in my ALEX desk, the paints I dont use anymore I keep in a container in the basement
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>>10225219
I throw my paints into a fucking small plastic box because I'm a dumb nigger ape.
the real reason is I'm tight on space and it's the easiest solution
>>
>>10225219
I made a tiered rack out of scrap wood with no power tools in 30 minutes while dinner was cooking one day, painted it with whatever I could find, which happened to be eye cancer bright orange child-safe paint, and I called it a day.
It's a ugly, ended up long instead of tall because I put the shelves in at the wrong angle, spiders love to live in it and somehow holds way more paint/crap than I had planned it to, so it gets a pass from me.
Not taking pictures because it's covered in dust since I never paint anything anymore and it will make /toy/ cry.
>>
>>10225219
i just put my paint in my tool box
>>
>>10225224
I did a thing is pretty based
>>
>>10225416
I stopped watching him, after it was revealed he was a extreme leftist and a complete hypocrite
>>
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Ok but unironically last thread got me thinking, would everyone be down to do a helicopter group build?

Alternatively we could do a light tank/recce group build since it is year of the rabbit.
>>
>>10225447
>would everyone be down to do a helicopter group build?
not my thing so no
>>
>>10225462
i can email you a video of me doing the dick helicopter swing if you want
>>
What about a group build of everyone just build something they haven't done before but also in some kind of time frame and post progress?
>>
>>10225464
the T-26 group build was fun but it left out some of the anons who autistically stick to modern stuff, and anons who don't make tanks.
likewise with choppers or specific timeframes, it would leave out me and some others who autistically don't do those things. (we all have our specialties, don't we?)
that "Tiger" group build someone suggested ages ago was interesting because it cuts across both eras and subject types: tanks, ships, planes, and other such things. even dioramas, an anon could paint a fucking tiger or something, I don't know.
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>20 cows a day
Honestly I would rather eat my Luger
>>
>>10225511
>Grove City
an econ professor from there visited mine once to give a little lecture to our conservative club.
funny to see this guy was also a part of the Mises institute. based boomer modeler
>>
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>>10225511
>Chattanooga
How was the show for you Anon? Did you buy or enter anything?
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>>10225219
there you go, asshole
I made those racks on the left myself, more coming soon, when I get the supplies
>>
>>10225511
>old wars allowed for these kind of whacky stories
we have devolved as a species
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>>10225219
BEHOLD THE MIGHTY BOX
>>
>>10225187
Yes, but most are old and will only be found at swap meets. The real old-old shit is probably collectable and you wouldn't want to build it anyway (made of wood n shit)

>>10225728
My grandfather used to go fishing with a guy he met in a POW camp (he worked alongside German prisoners)
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Hopefully going to apply decals to my abandoned Mi-24. Not really happy with it which I was I quit it last year.

>brush painting camo could be better
>masked canopy with sloppy tape
>bad attempt at depicting wear with silver paint

Good news is this is what finally made me buy liquid mask
>>
>>10225558
I got a Dragon 1/35 Puma and a really nice Hasegawa mustang

Probably should have stayed and hunted for aftermarket goods but I was feeling rough
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>>10225219
3D printed brackets screwed to a random piece of junk shelf.
>>
>>10225430
A hypocrite, oh no. Unlike the rest of us.
>>
>>10225891
Maybe tone down your overdone scuffing with some white or beige oil paint filter. Then maybe some drybrushing to bring out the rivets. That might add a bit more interest.
>>
>>10225935
Thanks. I' think I'm going to do apply some dust and a biege enamel wash after I get the decals on
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>>10225891

>taking the canopy masking off b4 you finish
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>>10225941
That mistake was already made. Nigga this shits been fucked for awhile now I'm just putting it out of its misery
>>
>>10225941
>not being able to just re-mask the canopy
skill issue
>>
>>10225900
Sorry to hear you was weren't feeling too good. Aftermarket this year was pretty decent, but then again I was looking for resin seats and wheels for yet another fucking Corsair (which would end up being my 5th one overall) but couldn't find abyt. I bought alot of decals from freetime hobby since they were doing a "buy 3 for $10 deal". They bought out squadron so they were wearing the squadron logo. Also got some PE and metal gun barrels from those guys from Texas which weren't too bad in cost. Everything else I bought was added to the stash like a $25 Eduard Fw-190d profipack and a $15 1/700 USS Randolph. There was a $15 dragon TA-152 and a $30 Special hobby barracuda and I regret not picking them up when I had the chance. This is why my stash is close to 200+, because I go to shows looking for aftermarket and find kits with reasonable or ridiculously low prices, case in point that dragon Randolph.
>>
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>>10225905
>>
>>10225970
Dude don't eat the frog, their only edible meat are in the legs
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Finished Eduard 1/48 BF 109G2
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>>10226152
>>
>>10226101
q gay and the sharty lost laquer chud
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>>10226101
git gud faggit
>>
>>10226152

The bits that are in focus look good, nice wheels and prop spinner
>>
>>10225447
>would everyone be down to do a helicopter group build?

Just bought this for it, preliminary look is nice detail but fits together like absolute shit.
Looking forward to using 4 gallons of automotive pinhole putty NGL
>>
>>10226152
definitely came out better than mine, that's for sure
did you have any problems with the fuselage fit? Mine ended up not being too good, in the final assembly the fuselage was too wide and the canopy didn't fit right as a result. looked like fucking shit.
>>
>>10226311
Based, love me the ka-29.

Gonna pick up the 1/35 soon.
>>
>>10226372
The fuselage fit was pretty good, it just required a lot of sanding and filling on the bottom.
>>
I’ll join the group build so long as it allows me to build something made after 1950. I don’t do ww2 stuff
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>>10226420
>I don’t do ww2 stuff
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>>10226420
Anon, did you hit your head? There aren't any models of anything after 1950.
Now, get back to those 3 Shermans you have on the bench, they aren't going to paint themselves!
>>
Dumb question, but could I just use acrylic thinner to clean my oil wash if I don't have white spirits? It's just alcohol right?
>>
>>10226652
Most acrylic thinner is either acetone or high proof isoproply alcohol, which evaporates too quickly to be practical for oil washing. Acrylic thinners will likely melt whatever paint is beneath the oil if you haven't varnished well.
Oils and enamels need mineral/white spirit, not alcohol. You'll find white spirit for a fraction of the cost of high proof alcohol and they will sell it anywhere, so just buy some.
>>
>>10226652
Just get some white spirit. You can (inevitably) buy it in a small expensive bottle from AK if you want but if you buy in a hardware/DIY store its cheaper than bottled water.

I would recommend decanting into smaller sealable bottles (like a Tamiya paint jar) when in use as the fumes can be a bit unpleasant and you want something you can put a lid on.
>>
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>>10226652
Lighter fluid.
You´re welcome.
>>
>>10226652
Use break fluid, a very tiny amount and wipe it off quickly. It dissolves anything oil based, so don't let it sit on plastic parts.
>>
>>10226731
>hardware/DIY store
Don't be a fucking retard and buy art grade odorless white spirit instead. You get more for cheaper and it won't poison you like the industrial stuff
>>
>>10226748
Also known as naotha and can be bought at any diy store worth its salt
>>
>>10226796
Naptha*

But don't be a retard and just get odorless white spirit from your local art store
>>
>>10226791
I have some, I don't find it works very well.
>>
>>10226665
>acetone
Anon, are you retarded? Not only would acetone fuck up your paint, but it will also dissolve paint on your model and will eat into the plastic itself

And its not only just isopropyl you dumb fucking monkey, it also contains wetting agents, surfactants and retarder
>>
>>10226802
Ngmi
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>>10226796
Lighter fluid is available at every grocery store and gas station, at least around here.
Well, thats just my opinion, and i´ve had great results with it. When it comes to odours its on the low end.
>>
>>10226804
>Not only would acetone fuck up your paint, but it will also dissolve paint on your model and will eat into the plastic itself
Please show me where in my post I said it wouldn't. He didn't ask for an armchair chemistry lesson, you massive autist, he wanted to know if it'd work or not and he got his answer.
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>>10226809
Anon, you didn't study in school when parents told you, didn't you?
I swear to god, at least half of /smg/ posters have brain damage from huffing chemicals that their tardwrangler forgot to take away
>>
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>>10226822
Your answer was wrong you dumb fucking nigger holy shit how did your parents not have a late stage abortion

Kiss me on the lips you retard UwU
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>>10226826
Jokes on you, i get great results and build models.
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>>10226830
Your models are shit and your penis size and girth are below average
don't come crying when the paint start flaking off
>>
>>10226828
Congratulations, you've done it. You've succesfully trololoed the slowest thread on /toy/. Your reward is waiting for you back on discord, so if you wouldn't mind leaving to fetch it.
>>
>>10226851
Don't forget to post my reward on plebbit, tourist
>>
>>10225989
Y'know I found a decal sheet with FW190D yellow tails but I felt like abosult dogshit so much that I didn't bother waiting for the vendor to come back from lunch

I'll probably catch him in Anniston or somewhere a couple months from now
>>
>>10226896
Yellow tails?
t. modernshit builder
>>
>>10225989
>This is why my stash is close to 200+
the path of the boomer...
>>
>>10226910
Google "Fw 190 yellow tail"
>>
>>10226916
I was trying to start a conversation, aspie
>>
>>10226467
Yeah sorry I’m not a worthless boomer or whehraboo with stacks of panthers and t34s
>>
>>10226958
Pathetic
>>
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>>10226958
>he doesn't want to make the Japanese space elevator
Pathetic.
>>
>>10226966
Actually I can make an exception for ships
Ww2 ships are cool
>>10226961
Go buy more 1/16 Shermans grandpa, companies are bending over backwards tooling the same thing again and again and again and again specifically for people like you.
>>
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>>10225219
All these pegboards getting posted are really nice. I've almost bought one but my bin works well enough that I back off every time. I wish I could get a set of drawers under my booth here instead of the bins.
>>
>>10226970
>bending over backwards
I'm sure these companies are on the brink of suicide releasing the same WWII kits over and over and making gorillions of dollars from it
>>
>>10226972
ESL-Kun…
>>
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>>10226970
It's great, I love winning while some loser whines about being irrelevant
>>
>>10226971
That's a pretty based set-up desu
>>
>>10226993
Suit yourself, npc. At least i don’t use Biden impact font reaction pics.
>>
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>>10227000
that's the whole joke, retard. it's ironic humor.
for calling us boomers for making WWII kits you sure do get assblasted easy and seem out of the loop
>>
>>10226896
I've been to Anniston once and I'm not going back. It wasn't bad or anything but the drive there and back was a slog to get through. He'll probably be at the Marietta show, but it depends on what vendor. Where the decals in a book or were they in a bin?
>>
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>>10227000
>unironically saying npc
You're a 2k16>>10227000
tourist aren't you
>>
>>10227001
I wonder how much Hollywood makeup costs
>>
>CA activator from ammo
Do modelers not know that CA accelerating fluid exists and that a lifetimes supply can be bought for pennies?
>>
>>10227050
Who cares, we buy a mountain of kits every year just to have them
>>
Any Tornado autists know what the differences between the a GR.1A and GR.1B are? I know the B is the anti-ship variant but I cannot for the life of me actually find any info on what differences they had other than it could carry anti ship missiles.
>>
Does anyone else like looking at their models and imagining people working in them? I think this is why I like ships because people lived in those ships and still do
I don't know why I'm like this, I think I have autism
>>
>>10227151
>I don't know why I'm like this, I think I have autism
do you know where you are, anon?
it's why I hate the "shipfu" shit that weebs and Japs do.
they take these massive steel ships, quite astonishing feats of engineering if you really think about it, these huge ships with a story to tell, which served the country they fought for, oftentimes were sank. hundreds if not thousands of men lived onboard for weeks at a time, with many men serving on board for years. just truly marvelous pieces of human engineering and design, millions of man hours just to build them
and then some fucking faggot ass nip decides to turn them into some stupid woman with propeller tits or some stupid shit
we're all stuck in here with autism, anon
>>
>>10227151
Yes.

t. Chad 1/700 and 1/350 PE sailor placer and enjoyer
>>
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>>10225891
Got the decals on a some matte varnish to blur everything but I fucking lost the sensor/pitot array thing that goes on the front

>>10227151
yes
>>
Wtf do I do with a whole extra t72 hull
>>
Diorama of factory?
>>
>>10227132
>Any Tornado autists know what the differences between the a GR.1A and GR.1B are?

Yeah, non. There were no differences externally or in the cockpit, no additional weapons panel for it. All that was added was the wiring + the pylon adapter + the sea eagle.

There were only ~25 of em, Airframe numbers are ZA374,ZA375,ZA399,ZA407,ZA446,ZA447,ZA450,ZA452,ZA453,ZA455,ZA456,ZA457,ZA459,
ZA460,ZA461,ZA465,ZA469,ZA471,ZA473,ZA474,ZA475,ZA490,ZA491,ZA492,ZA409,ZA411

if you wanna look at pics.
>>
>>10227237
Use it as wreckage for a Diorama, the possibilities are endless in what war you could use it in, plenty of destroyed T-72's throughout history.
>>10227245
Neat, should be good then. No clue what the pylon adapter looks like and no one seems to sell it (they sell the missile but no pylons are included with it) so probably just gonna glue it to a regular bomb pylon and hope no one notices.
>>
>>10227155
Look at this point and tell me straight in the text that you don't think that ships wouldn't be improved by putting a massive pair of torpedo tits on the hull
>>
>>10227265
>throughout history.
And current war is providing us with high quality photogrammetry scans of Russian wrecks that you can use as reference
>>
>>10226966
CAN WE GET MUCH HIGHER?
>>
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>>10227328
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>>10227350
>>
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>>10227357
>It's asymmetric
>>
>>10227195
Finishing the thing is all. Just one tip: the masking on the canopy should be the last thing you remove. Not until everything is done. That keeps your canopy clear.
>>
anyone got any references for the comet tank not in br*tish service?
I want to build the new Tamiya one
>>
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>>10227674
You are to build Finnish Army Comet from 1960´s with foliage camo.
Here is something to get you started
http://www.andreaslarka.net/MehtomaaComet/Mehtomaa_Comet.html
>>
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>>10227684
>>
>>10227684
>it's a cromwell with like 2 new rivets
why are br*t tanks like this?
>>
>>10227848
You don't need diverse military tech when mutts will fight for you for free
>>
>>10227848
cromwell hull just works
simple as is
>>
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>>10227848
You shut your mouth, British tanks are some of the most beautiful tanks on Earth.
>>
>>10227848
>T-64 is a T-72 with the IR light on the left
>T-80 is a T-72 with different roadwheels
>T-55 is grandpa T-72
>T-90 is a T-72 with male gaze
>T-90M is a T-72 with a Merkava 4 turret
t. slavshit builder
>>
>>10227945
>piggie getting this triggered
lmao, can't wait to see more crappy bong shit getting blown up in a few weeks
>>
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>>10227848
>2 new rivets
Ackschually, it has lesser amount of rivets than Cromwell
And it just fucking works.
Deal with it.
>>
>>10227955
Back to your thread, mongol sodomite.
>>
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>>10227962
Also, when our army got Comets they also got Charioteers, there is one hull sitting in the middle of woods next to an small airfield like 30km from where i live. You can climb inside (its gutted out) and turret can be traversed just by pushing the barrel with your hands.
Its a good reference spot.
>>
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guess the cockpit!
>>
>>10227975
is this an Il-10?
>>
>>10227975
il-2
>>
>>10227977
>>10227978
BRRRR
YOU'RE WRONG YOU'RE FUCKING WRONGGOD YOU'RE STOOOPID
>>
>>10227975
f35?
>>
>>10227975
M1 Abrams.
>>
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Oh yes.
>>
>>10227267
t. british shipyards after 1914
>>
>>10228022
chonky boye
>>
>>10227980
oh I'm a fucking retard, it's an early-war Stuka. A or B model
>>
>>10228022
god I hope it turns out to be a good kit
>>
>>10228239
New AIRFIX kits are really good. Only problem I've encountered with them is that they seem to not bother doing any research on weapons and just wing it so they're usually undersized, even then only a little bit
>>
>>10228239
why were all the planes Britain made right after WWII so fucking ugly? the Lightning, Buccaneer, and this fucking thing. the Hunter seems to be the only exception
>>
>>10228312
The Avro Vulcan is very pretty anon. (Although this is offsetted by how fucking ugly the Handley Page Victor is).
>>
>>10228327
the Vulcan is kinda ugly but still cool looking
>Handley Page Victor
holy shit what a fucking disgrace
>>
>>10228312
>Lightning
>Ugly
Confirmed for low test. Bet you don't understand the beauty of the F111 or architect threads either.
>>
If I order something form China through eBay do I risk getting fucked by unexpected customs duties?
t. German
>>
>>10228358
Its external fuel tanks were placed OVER THE FUCKING WING, anon.
>>
>>10228312
pretty much all aircraft of the 50's were butt ugly
>>
>>10228375
this is actually more efficient for generating lift

you want the air under the wing smooth and slow while the air over the wing is fast and curved

they mount stuff under wings only because it looks better asthetically

but if you look at the wings of one of those high proformance stunt planes, they will have vortex generator fin things on the top side right along the spar of the wing to increase lift.
>>
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>>10228239
I want to buy this thing purely because that was an amazing reading experience.
>>
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>>10228239
>decals applied with white glue
fuck I love this
>>
>>10228375
Again, confirmed for low test. Don't you want to have to do an aileron roll to drop your tanks? How much more fucking awesome can you get?
>>
>>10228384
>>10228381
Holy shit anon you’re such a fucking retard
The lightning looks cool and so does the buccaneer but Jesus fucking christ everything you typed flies in the face of basic fucking 101 aerodynamics
Please go back to school and pay attention this time, especially when they talk about flow separation.
>>
>>10228364
Depends on how much the order is and how unlucky you are. It's certainly possible though.
>>
>>10228757
125€
It's all Tiger Model's models, it's my last chance before they disappear from the market forever
>>
>>10228239
Where's the funny?
>>
>>10228312
The Buc is sexy as hell. I also maintain that in person the Gannet is not as ugly as it seems in photographs, its like twice as big you think it is.
>>
>>10228786
Its worth a risk. There is always a chance that they will check a parcel, but with China its unlikely.
>>
>>10227357
Everything looks better with a swastika on it.
>>
>>10228022
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4wurQyqsfI0
luv me gannet
>>
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>>10228896
>>
why do you guys have two genera-
oh, I am so sorry that is the funniest shit ever
>>
>>10228515
I take it you only build scale models. I only build rc models. That means they actually have to fly.
>>
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>>10229061
That thing is STILL up!?
>>
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>>10229073
>I only build rc models. That means they actually have to fly.

Why don't you try something difficult instead?
>>
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>>10229082
yup
it's so fucking funny
>>
>>10229122
Is there not a bump limit for 1 person or something? How the fuck have the jannies not pruned it yet?
>>
>>10229129
there's a zigger in the janny team, he's been banning people making fun of rushit in this general too
>>
>>10229073
are you the guy that doesn't get the appeal of static models since you can't interact with them, only look at them? I'm with you on that, I've even go so far as to replace every painting in my home with a TV
>>
i wonder how hard it would be to convert a static model kit into an rc vehicle
>>
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>>10229263
You might want to take a look at Tamiya´s 1/35 tank kits from the 70´s for inspiration. I think all of them had option for installing motor into them.
But for example a tank kit: I would think that all you´d really need is small engine for the sprocket wheel, and either vinyl tracks or metal links.
My coworker flies RC planes, just from hearing all his stories I would never want to convert an plane kit into RC considering all the rough landings and mishaps.
>>
>>10229263
That'll depend entirely on the model. Some 1/35 tanks were designed to be RC from the start, most resin aircraft will probably be a bit more of a challenge.
>>
>>10229273
>considering all the rough landings and mishaps.
https://youtu.be/8yf_QTbDeWM?t=107
>>
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>>10229280
Brutal!
That coworker I mentioned, he actually bought one of the those kinds of jet kits (iirc he was drunk) and after few tries he sold it away because it was a pain in the ass to master and he was really stressed about crashing it.
So yeah, I think i´ll stay at static kits.
>>
>>10229286
>he was really stressed about crashing it.
the only way to make RC flying 'fun' is to spend thousands on each aircraft
>>
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>>10224408
I have the same kit waiting, I considering if I should do it realistically and have some fun painting it in GuP colours
>>
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>>10229313
The GuP colours are a very realistic portrayal of 60s post-war Finnish army green, just with an added 62 years of UV damage.
>>
>>10229370
According to your pic that green fades to yellow instead of blue, but sure...
>>
>>10229374
https://youtu.be/84u9p2elMIo
>>
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>>10229374
>>10227969
It depends. Sometimes it goes a bit bluish. Here´s a pic from when the paint was still fresh
>>10229380
>wheredoyouthinkweare.jpg
>>
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>>10229313
>same kit
I hope not, this is the UniModel 1:72 kit. And I am actually planning to paint it in GuP colors
>>
>>10229418
nvm, I didn't know that there is other kit than Tamiya's
>>
>>10229073
I build real planes.
>>
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>>10229497
>>10229073
>>10228384
>>10228381
You know, I typed up this whole novella about flow turning and pressure gradients and boundary layer separation, but decided against posting it, dumbasses like you aren't even worth the effort.
I guess I shouldn't be surprised that someone who builds RC planes, which operate at Reynolds numbers of less than 1e7 and can fly so long as it's vaguely plane-shaped, doesn't know jack shit about turbulent effects.
tl;dr: kys
>>
>>10228786
Why don't you just buy it directly from Aliexpress? Ebay is somewhat risky as if it's damaged they will try to exploit the fact that ebay cannot generate return labels for Chinese addresses to fuck you over unless you really know what you are doing as a buyer.
>>
>>10229518
>Why don't you just buy it directly from Aliexpress?
I can confirm, sample size is limited but I've bought two Flyhawk deluxe kits from Aliexpress for fairly cheap (like $60 for their Bismarck and $55 for their ICM König rebox, both complete steals) and they arrived in good condition. only problem was the waiting time which was unsurprisingly like 3 months from placing the order to delivery
my experience may be nontypical but I've heard from other anons + other people too that Aliexpress is actually solid for getting models at a discount if you can, just prepare yourself to wait for a while
>>
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>>10229514
Pls post it anon, aerodynamics is super interesting
>>
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What would you recommend for filling panel lines with minimal sanding? I have some vallejo acrylic putty, but I think the shrinkage will make it very annoying. Anybody have some clever out of the box solutions?
>>
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>>10229536
Well I did delete it but here's a general audience version:
RC planes and paper planes operate in the mostly laminar regime; this means that flow is good and beautiful and in straight parallel lines, which is usually very good - until it encounters what's called an adverse pressure gradient: this is the leeward side of a flying golf ball or the latter half of an airfoil. In inviscid (perfect, no viscosity) flow, the static pressure here would increase as you go along with the wind, as the geometry sort of acts like a diffuser (think bernoulli's theorem).
When viscosity is taken into effect, you have to add this thing called a "boundary layer"; this is a small (usually a couple mm to cm in planes) layer starting v=0 at the skin and v=v at the top. Imagine air is sticky and slipping is not allowed. When encountering an adverse pressure gradient, the bottom, low-velocity part of the boundary layer can be pushed in the opposite direction until the whole thing lifts up and separates; in aerodynamics, this is called stall, where wind no long follows the curve of the airfoil and you lose most of your lift. Technically, the separation zone is a low-pressure zone and you do get a BIT of lift from it, but it's at the cost of the rest of your wing-generated lift.
There are a few ways to fix this. One of them introduces a chord-wise vortex over the top of the wing that adds kinetic energy to the air in the boundary layer, making it harder to separate from the wing. You do lose a bit of local lift where the vortex generator is, but this is usually at (traditional VGs) or in front of (strakes) the leading edge. The vortex can be made to be so strong that some planes, namely the delta-winged ones, can fly using entirely the vortex generated at high angles of attack.
>>
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>>10229599
In the 50's, swept wings became the big thing. One of the problems encountered was lateral flow, where wind would not just flow over the wing, but along it as well. This can lower flow energy as it loses it to friction and stall where the lateral flow builds up at the wingtip. Again, many ways to counteract this.
In the earlier days, they added wing fences as a fix; these are the bits you see over wings such as the mig 17 and as you can imagine they block the lateral flow. The problem here is that boundary layers do not like non-smooth angles. The boundary layer on the side of the fence and the top of the wing will compound and does lead to early separation; this is why almost all ww2 planes have a filleted wing root. This is also why no planes have them today, as they have been superseded by better designs. Most planes nowadays have "washout", or a twist of the wing to induce a lower angles of attack at the tip than the root. Vortices also help with the stall problem by energizing the boundary layer. Many planes use dog-tooth leading edges where they need the flow to be straight (so in front of the control surfaces), such as the horizontal tail on the F-15 and the main wing on the F-18.
Note that all of this applies a lot less to the bottom of wings. There is rarely any noticeable adverse pressure gradient, meaning that it's harder for flow to separate here than over the wings. This is why pylons are mounted under-wing, not because, and I quote, "it looks better aesthetically". The tank on the lightning is there because there physically isn't enough space under the wing after the landing gear and existing pylons, and it acted as a fence as well.
>>
>>10229601
>they added wing fences as a fix
These can also be found in the De Havilland Sea Vixen, another ugly British plane of the cold war. The circle of stupidity is complete. Great post though, thanks anon.
>>
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I love you autists, this is the best thread
>>
>>10229621
fuck off tranime
>>
>>10229601
>wing root fillet
can I ask what this is? googling it just results in a bunch of pictures of wing roots and I'm not exactly certain what I'm supposed to be noticing.
>>
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>>10229632
The rounding of the part where the wing and the fuselage meet so it's not a sharp corner.
>>
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>>10229636
you learn something new every day
thanks anon
>>
>>10224373
best 1/72 kit for MiG-25, hell best brand for soviet MiGs?
>>
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>build RFM Challenger 2
>80% of the build time was literally just tacking shit on to the ass of the tank
I'm kind of pissed about this, half this shit should have just been one assembly or molded on no one is ever gonna see this shit.
>>
>>10229903
>>80% of the build time was literally just tacking shit on to the ass of the tank
your first chink kit?
just be glad rfm quality control is decent for that kit, unlike trumpeters chally 2 which is also bloated in parts ontop of having awful flash+fit.
>>
>>10230033
>just be glad rfm quality control is decent for that kit
It does have some minor fit issues, wtf where they thinking doing a 5 piece hull in 2022
>>
>>10229881
The ICM Mig-25 is reportedly pretty good. I have one but haven't build it yet.
>>
>>10229598
use vallejo's or ak interactive's waterbased putties and wipe the excess away with a wet cotton swab before it dries.
you can also do the same with most non-waterbased putties (like mr surfacer 500, and i think even milliput) by using a cotton swab dipped in isopropyl alcohol.
personally i use mr surfacer 500. wipes away very nicely with alcohol even after it's completely dried and it also dries to sandable much faster than most other putties. and being lacquer-based it adheres to the plastic really well, i find the waterbased stuff really shitty to sand because it often just peels off the plastic
>>
>>10230134
You can wipe off milliput with a cotton swab dipped in water before it has cured
>>
>>10229628
lmao tourist
>>
>>10229628
nigger, you're seething about anime on a futaba ripoff
>>
>>10229514
>but decided against posting it, dumbasses like you aren't even worth the effort.
I know I'm late to the party, but please don't ever think like that

post it for the benefit of a dozen lurkers who will absolutely appreciate it, and don't give the retard nigger a second thought

>>10229599
>>10229601
thanks for posting it all, great stuff
>>
>>10229881
As far as I can tell that'd be Clearprop, Great Wall Hobby, ICM, KP/RV, Modelsvit, Eduard, Zvezda, Trumpeter or Airfix depending on which Mig you want to build.
>>
My Vallejo acrylic plastic putty isn't drying properly and it becomes rubbery instead of solid
Does it need to be replaced? I bought it a year ago
>>
>>10230548
you're supposed to wait a day or something for it to cure, I've done so before sanding and even then I've had more of it peel away than I intended.
it's not great stuff and is kind of situational. just try to be gentle with it if you sand it, and give it a longer amount of time to cure and "fully harden"
>>
>>10230548
those water based putties just aren't very good, i've tried both vallejo's and ak's. just bin it and get something good. mr surfacer 500 for small filling, mr dissolved putty for medium filling, and milliput for big filling are my personal picks
>>
Are there any retro 50's futuristic space ship models? All sleak smooth shapes with fins and those antenna with the three rings?
>>
>>10227195
Sweet frosting on the canopy. Is this your first model? Because if it is, then you're probably not hopeless.
>>
>>10229135
Can confirm, got randomly banned from zigger thread for "ban evasion". On a broadband connection. With no dynamic IP.
>>
>>10230754
Yeah its my first model. I posted in here earlier about how I fucked up on the canopy. If anything the frosting obscures worse looking mistakes
>>
>>10230852
not too shabby anon. what are you thinking of next?
>>
>>10229122
as much as I despise him I can't help but admire his obscene level of dedication
>>
>>10230855
I have a Tamiya Leopard 2a4 that I started working on last week
>>
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>>10228312
>>10228378
40's, 50's and 60's have the only good looking jets. It all went downhill after that.
>>
>>10227945
what about T-80?
>>
Thunder Model's 1:35 scale BR80 is currently MIA
>>
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>>10231042
They stole your thunder.
>>
>>10231042
Fucking hell I had no idea this was a thing
I'm desperate for train plastic kits
>>
Fuck it, my first boat is going to be full 350+PE. Im gonna sink or I’m gonna swim.
>>
>>10231594
It's honestly ez mode compared to 1/700+PE (depends on the boat though) since the PE parts are much larger.
>>
>>10230852
Well it seems you're not physically retarded (literally unable to paint inside the lines like 40% of hobbyists) nor mentally retarded (not being able to grasp simple step-by-step instructions like 40% of hobbyists, said 40% dos not necessarily overlap with the first 40%).
So all in all I think you have what to work with. I suggest taking your time on your first models at least (if not all models). Do and redo stuff until you are really pleased with it. Use clear coats under enamels/oils if using any and you should be able to redo those as much as you want.
For weathering, based on the Hind, try to go with "less is more" approach. It's really easy to overdo stuff and fuck things up. Adding on bit by bit it's much easier to stop before you overdo it.
>>
>>10230548
>Vallejo acrylic plastic putty
It basically needs to be finalised wet with no sanding at all. Basically apply it to the seamline, wait a couple of minutes, wipe off with damp cotton bud then clean up surrounding area with other side of cotton bud. Then leave it the fuck alone. Its basically only good for narrow seams or small pinholes and useless for larger stuff.
>>
>>10231594
Make sure you watch a video of someone doing a build first
>>
>>10231594
that's what I did, and everything turned out fine.
what boat?
>>
>>10231647
I'm looking at either the Takao or Akizuki. Both the 194x ones and the modern ones because I'm aiming for a "same name different time" type thing.
Ideally I'd do the Long Beach but my bravado does not extend to paying $350+shipping for a resin kit for my first try.

>>10231633
Yeah, I've got a few 30-40-minute ship build videos from japanese/korean youtubers (why is it always those guys?) lined up and I'll go along with a few of them
>>
Does the Tamiya Gloster Meteor even exist? Never seen one.
>>
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>>10229263
*ahem*
>>
>>10231876
I built that beast back in the mid-2000s. It's what finally drove me to get an airbrush, I handpainted the bastard with acrylics. Took me two and a half years. That early repop (it's an old Matchbox kit) also had an error in the instruction booklet where the steps to put all the shit inside the bridge came after the step where you had already sealed the bridge up. Fuck me, I'm having flashbacks from that thing.
>>
>>10231928
frankly it's really rough, but there's so much aftermarket for that thing if you really can't enhance it yourself.

i did not fully build one, but I put the hull together and did the stuffing tube and driveline for my brother.
>>
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>>10231826
Why bother when you can get the new AIRFIX one?

I just bought two M113 detail/upgrade resin sets and if Takom announced a new tool M113 I'm gonna freak.
>>
>>10230740
Check https://fantastic-plastic.com/fantastic-plastic-models-online-catalog.html
>>
>>10231594
this>>10231596
700 scale is nice and really cool but far more difficult than 350, frankly
>>
>>10225099
why? explain.
>>
>>10231826
It does on eBay.
>>
>>10232274
what is this link?
>>
>>10232498
probably just an online dealer? lmao
>>
>>10232500
my security wont let it open
>>
>>10232503
press Advanced and go to the website anyway, zoomie
>>
>>10232572
This post glows
>>
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post paint shakers
>>
RELEASE THE SHTURM NOW TRUMPETER I WANT IT NOW NOW NOW NOW REEEEEEE

REEEEEEEEEEEE
>>
>>10232617
this but a horse cock on the end
>>
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>>10232609
>>
>>10224441
>Currently working on a whaler and looking for some 1/48 crewmen

Just go on Tinder and say you're a woman.
>>
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>>10232617
Glass ball + this.
>>
>>10232617
>>
Any suggestions for how to get 1/72 crew figures?
>>
>>10233033
Print them
>>
>>10233033
For what?
>WW2 shit
Why are you even asking? There's a fuckload of WW2 figure sets for everything but the most obscure shit, just use scalemates and your brain.
>Modernshit
Depends
>Russia
You're fucked, AlexMiniatures and Tankograd disappeared after the war, your only option is Armory who sells a really basic set. Zvezda makes some really basic cold war era figures too but they're made for their table top game so the poses are very limited.
>US
You're really only gonna find either Vietnam shit or Modern (as in post Gulf War) shit, if you want just basic Korean War - Cold war stuff you are fucked
>Britain
Completely unobtanium aside from like 2 resin sets for Challenger kits (which are also unobtanium in 1/72), even the boomers making white metal figures seem to have died because I can't get a response from any of them anymore.
>Germany
Big selection to no one's surprise, even for cold war shit. Germania-figuren has a ton of Cold War german figures from both sides, they also have a lot of US Vietnam stuff
>France
blast-models has two basic sets for modern shit (africa theater)
>any other country
Pretty much unobtanium, there are NATO/PACT sets around but they're pretty ancient.
>>
>>10233066
Yeah WW2
I want to put people in hatches
I haven't seen much, at most you get figures for planes
>>10233038
Is that feasible?
I'm considering getting a printer but not sure if I have the skills for sculpting
>>
>>10233069
>I haven't seen much, at most you get figures for planes
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=ww2+1%2F72&fkTYPENAME[]=%22Figures%22&fkSCALENORMALISED[]=%221:00072%22&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22German%20soldiers%20(WW2)%22&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22Soviet%20soldiers%20(WW2)%22&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22British%20soldiers%20(WW2)%22&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22US%20soldiers%20(WW2)%22&fkTYPEGROUP[]=%22Japanese%20soldiers%20(WW2)%22
>>
>>10233070
Yeah so what I figured
Mostly infantry figures and crew figures at rest for dioramas
>>
Fuck actually my question was way too vague in retrospect
What I want is for my 1/72 ground vehicles to have figures which make them look like they're active in combat
So for example a tank commander looking outside of the turret, crew to sit in a jeep, etc
I don't mean standard infantry although infantry inside of a Sd.Kfz. 251 would be great
Hope I haven't frustrated anyone with my vague and bad question
>>
>>10231579
Have you seen trumpeter's offerings?
>>
>>10229384
Source on photo?
>>
>>10233069
buy any fig in 1/72 and just convert it into a tankman, hobbylet
>>
>>10232850
I finally bought this as well. Do you really need this? No. Did this manage to revive my enamel shit in like 30 seconds? Yes.
>>
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>>10233085
This is where i got it from. He posts lots of HQ pics, it makes me elated.
https://twitter.com/coldwarfinland/status/1513848807020273669/photo/1
>>
>>10233069
Resin printers are really good for figures, you just need to find a good model
>>
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Any recommendations for good durable matt varnishes?? Ive got vallejo and Mig but they both tend to lift and peel when oil weathering over the top and i'm sick of ruining models at the last hurdle
>>
>>10233270
Tamiya is quite durable after a 2-3 coats, also anon how long are you letting the varnish cure for?
>>
>>10233277
My bet is this retard's peeling it off after 40 minutes tops
>>
>>10233277
>>10233281

Usually a week, but i fucked up an EE lightning that had vallejo varnish cured for ~4 months.
>>
>>10233284
ok the only other person i found with that same problem just applied another few coats of varnish on top, so maybe give that a go
>>
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>>10232794
that only gets me full-sized men, they don't fit.

really happy with the weathering so far, bet it's all gonna fucken disappear when i put the protective matte coat on tho
>>
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>>10233362
>>
>>10233270
>vallejo
which one?
try their polyurethane varnish, it's MUCH more durable than their normal acrylic varnish
>>
Decals finally showed up.
>>
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...and perhaps the photo should as well.
>>
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>>10233277
Wtf varnishes are you guys using? Are you using acrylic or worse enamel garbage? I use lacquer varnish and that shit is indestructible after like 10 minutes.
>>
>haven't touched models since like late november due to endless back pain, eye strain, head aches (all work related)
>gonna have a crack at it right now
Hope I don't quit in five minutes.
>>
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>>10233727
I use Vallejo's pu varnish and never had issues with it
>>10233802
Ganbatte desu
>>
>>10233802
What do you do, work as a pebble counter in a children's coal mine?
>>
>>10233902
Close. Watchmaker.
>>
>>10233913
Based watch autist.
>>
>>10233913
Do you like 1/700 photo etch?
>>
>>10233967
Ironically I build big. 1:48 jets and 1:35 tanks. I like making hooks for rifle slings and stuff.
>>
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how do you guys tend to go about the assembly/painting process for link and length? First time I tried it (Zvezda T-26) I couldn't even paint first before final assembly on the hull because I couldn't get the return rollers to stay in place long enough to get the tracks on the wheels. wasn't terribly pleased with the end result; just painted everything green, topcoated white and chipped it since it was a Winter War camo, then just painted the tracks steel.
second (and most recent) time I did it was with individual length tracks, because they were teeny tiny HobbyBoss pieces (the Toldi I made a few months ago). I just glued them together in one big link, then softened them with warm water and plastic cement, then bent them around the tracks and glued them. I was able to actually prime and paint the running gear + tracks separately, but airbrushing the wheels -> brush-painting the tracks -> brush-painting the tires (? not sure of the correct term) was an enormous pain in the ass. wasn't super pleased with this result either, but it was an improvement, but like I said an enormous pain in the balls.
now I have link and length again and I'm wondering how the fuck other people actually do it. this is a small kit, a 1/35 FineMolds Ha Go. unlike the T-26, I think I can get the running gear on the tank, then glue the tracks to it, then remove the whole sub assembly, but the painting process has me scratching my head. I could theoretically just put big gobs of masking tape around the wheels after painting them so I can get the desired effect with the tracks (dark iron with subtle airbrushed spots of hull red for rust, then drybrushing steel on the edge for wear), but just thinking of masking it all off makes me want to rope. there has to be an easier way... right?
>>
>>10233990
Glue the track links to each other but not to the wheels. Then you can just paint the tracks as one separate assembly.
>>
You know when people paint the bottom of a panel darker and the top portion lighter?
I want to do that with enamels.
I can do the top with AMMO's rainmarks effect , it's almost white, but I don't know what to use for the bottom.
I think it shouldn't be either pure black nor visibly brown, and it mustn't have any volume. Any suggestions?
>>
>>10233727
as i said in post, Tamiya
>>
>>10234389
I just realized I replied to the wrong post, meant to reply to
>>10233270
>>
There is as much detail in my 1/700 flyhawk kit bare plastic as there is in my 1/200 trumpeter kit and it's a hell of a lot more accurate
>>
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>>10233802
hopefully you're making another nuckular sub with radioactive watch hands inside, lol
>>
>>10234299
>and it mustn't have any volume.

Anon, are you retarded or just didn't study during art classes?
>>
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>>10234756
I still haven't gotten around to that, I finished like one model in all of 2022.

Also thought about making an European street base for like a Panther or Sherman or whatever, but the point would be that I'd use Miniart's street clock set and convert it to have a tiny women's quartz movement inside and actually show the time.
>>
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>Just discovered fluorine coated tweezers that masking tape doesn't stick onto
>>
>>10234769
Just dress your tweezers retard
>>
So when are you tank nerds going to start some 1:16 RC kits? I want to see these $1500 kits in action.
>>
>>10234765
A wash has almost no volume. Enamel mud paste has a lot of volume and leaves a visible sediment. It's not a difficult concept, I can guarantee it.
>>
>>10234518
Old trumpeter is pretty dodgy but their new stuff is pretty good. I'd imagine the new 1/200 yamato has pretty good detail
>>
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>>10233468
>try their polyurethane varnish
cheers lad, i'll give it a go on my tornado build
>>
>>10234518
Flyhawk are just about the best thing ever.

>>10234782
That little?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fYAgekHzqS0
>>
>>10234518
Flyhawk make the best 1/700 kits, without question
which one are you making?
>>
>>10234518
no it isn't.
try scaling up the thickness of plate joins, planks, rigols etc. and get back to us.
>>
>>10235083
seethe
>>
>>10235088
stay retarded, scalelet
>>
>>10235095
seethe
>>
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>it's too cold to prime
fuck you putin and your weather control satellites fucking up my shit
>>
>>10234772
What does this mean and why is masking tape relevant?
>>
>>10235101
Just warm up your cans dumbass. Literally nothing will happen unless you're some jungle nigger with 200% air humidity.
>>
>>10235112
>Just warm up your cans dumbass.
I'm not a retard, dickwad, but it's so cold the paint just balls up on the plastic.
>>
>>10235113
Yeah light them on fire then retard.
>>
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>>10235120
>the great american shitshooter strikes again
>>
>>10234782
I've been meaning to restart my 1/12 Whippet project and get an actual marketable product done. With my 3d printer and PE designing experience there's nothing holding me back besides conflicting priorities.
>>
>>10235101
Don't you have internal heating? Where the fuck do you live anon.
>>
>>10234782
Absolutely zero interest in RC
>>
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finally spending some time on the base, gluing down ballast
>>
Recently learnt about the technique where they thin out the material behind a drilled out porthole
I think it looks great
>>
>>10235112
Nigger, do you live in siberia or some shit?
>>
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>>10235270
>black paint is opaque

ohnononono
>>
>>10235335
not opaque*

Phoneposter moment
>>
Anyone know what the thing he puts the PE on is?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UjUhZnA9joQ
Can see it at 4 minutes
>>
>>10235344
>Ebroin's Miniatures
good taste. check out Studio Blue Ocean also
as for the thing, no idea
what I've used before is just a tongue depressor with a big piece of masking tape lying face up, which I then tape down onto the tongue depressor using scotch tape. it's not perfect but better than nothing
>>
>>10235335
>>10235339
dafuck you on about. what part of the black is transparent?
>>
>>10235270
You work even slower than me and this fills me with determination. Thanks trainanon.

>>10235335
The black looks more than fine for freehand. At least I think it was freehand, the green was masked I'm pretty sure.

>>10235332
What are you on about? I prime with my airbrush in whatever weather, with or without r*ssoid gas.
>>
>>10235371
I think he's seeing the paint looking kinda glossy but thinks it's translucent or something.
>>
>>10235376
i'm slow, but mainly distracted. did a quick and dirty build on a slutty little T-18 thats now ready for weathering. Also test printing parts for my Tatra T18

>>10235386
oh yea thats an overall satin coat. helps with weathering, and I like the look so I leave it.
>>
>>10234782
Zero interest in that shit, call me when they actually bother having detailed molds. I was tempted to buy the Tamiya Centurion but it uses the same shitty fucking ancient mold their dinosaur-tier kit does with the awful empty periscopes and chunky details. For that steep of a price I don't want some toy-like shit.
>>
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ye boy
>>
>>10235452
Super autistic. Very cool!
>>
>>10235452
That is very sexy
How long?
>>
>>10235455
how long? nothing compared to the amount of time I have spent trying to figure out what the historically correct shade of RLM 70 & 71 is supposed to be for the main body paint
>>
>>10235463
Don't forget about light conditions changing color
>>
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It me again. How's the weathering looking on these bollards? I did it in pigment so it can be wiped down.

Once Royal Mail unfucks themselves I can place an order for all the stuff too annoying to make myself, like nav lamps and the two wooden steering wheels.
>>
>>10235539
Extremely based, the home made harpoon winch (iirc) looks great painted too.
>>
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>>10235631
The painted thing is just the capstan for lines, I'm dragging my ass on the winch because everything has to be made in triplicate/quadruplicate. One more gear and three more winding drums.
>>
>>10235539
Which kit?
>>
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>>10235669
scratchbuilt from plans for 'The Hav', 1/48. Would not recommend for beginners because of the fucky curves in the bow bulwarks.
>>
>>10235683
That's awesome
I've always wanted to get into it but it seems very intimidating
Are you using plastic sheet for the bulk of the build? How do you build the hull?
>>
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B-Team-Sama...
>>
>>10236177
lol, trumpeter putting less and less effort in their models
>>
>>10235531
>>10235463
Don't forget the effects of old orthochromatic film.
>>
>>10235344
Looks like a piece of cardboard or so with some double sided tape stuck on it.
>>
>>10235344
looks like a piece of plastic sheet, maybe dense styrofoam, because he's pinning the guns into it
>>
>trumpeter's website is down
They didn't just get CCP'd, right?
Right?
>>
>>10236484
They're updating the page with next month's news, they do this every month. Their web crew is garbage, but what else you expect from China?
>>
>>10236484
It's literally only worked once for me, their website is just mega shit.
>>
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>>10236034
The hull is plank-on-frame, which is probably the easiest way to do it (bread-and-butter is SIMPLER, but you will be carving forever). The superstructure is all plastic sheet, I bought a huge 4x8 sheet of .060 thou years ago and still have some left over. Sometimes I use it for the deck as well.

when you say 'get into it' do you mean scratchbuilding or R/C botes? Easiest way to do the latter is converting one of the large plastic kits. Second-easiest is buying a pre-made fibreglass hull, that takes care of all the heavy work you need to do.
>pic related, FG hull, bought running gear and everything else is just plastic shet and some resin and 3DP details.
>>
>>10236735
British frigates are unironically the most soulful boats on earth
>>
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>This much for a T-72B1 rebox with extra bits tacked on
They are delusional, who the fuck do they expect to pay for this? I could get a 1/35 SAM or other stupid huge kit for this price, even the aliexpress stores have this for over 80$, the B1 kit this is from is 50$, you could just get that and one of the PE cope cage sets and spend half.
>>
Im finding it difficult doing photoetch at 1/72
I put some CA on a card and then slightly dip a PE part into it and then attach it to the part
Sometimes I'll get a very thin layer of CA around the part that ruins the surface when you look up close
Any ideas?
>>
>>10236994
Vendor issue
I can get that kit for $45.
>>
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>trying to line up link-and-length tracks on a loosely-fitting dryfitted running gear, without gluing the tracks to the wheels, or the wheels to the tanks
>the bogeys keep swinging back and forth and falling off, and the idler wheel keeps falling off too
I'm going to fucking kill myself this is so fucking gay, but I will rope before I ever paintbrush the tracks then handbrush the rubber tires ever again
>>
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why are boomers like this
>>
I'm building a flyhawk 1/72 panzer and the individual tracks are very confusing
Idk how they're supposed to connect
>>
Random question, but does anybody know if a 1/87 scale Boeing 707 exists?

Watching Airplane! and evidently the 707 would fit into the era that I model, so sticking a Trans American Airlines plane as a tribute is something I'd like to do if possible.
>>
>>10237177
You put a little extra thin on it then wait a bit and it will be connected but still malleable so you can shape the tracks around the wheels
>>
>>10237371
From a quick look on scalemates looks like you're only gonna get 1/72 or 1/144
>>
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>>10237372
it's link and length, though, not individual track links. assembly is very tricky, and I don't want to end up mushing up the connectors between the tracks by bending and moving them so much after applying the extra thin.
what I may try doing is just doing it bit by bit, glue the track links together with the wheels dryfit to the hull, then disassemble it all. gluing and fitting will be a huge bitch but it'll make things easier in the long run, especially as far as painting is concerned.
>>
>>10237383

I can actually work with 1/144, just hang it from a string while in flight.
>>
How do I make extruding rivets that are smaller than like 0.3mm
>>
>>10237479
probably use very tiny bits of modeling clay and shape it with a toothpick
couldn't give you a specific product to recommend but I've seen some very highly skilled Asian modelers use some of that stuff on YouTube, like Ebroin's Miniatures. he sculps new bits on ships and also makes busts of historical and fictional people
>>
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Thanks to the anon who suggested I just glue the tracks together without gluing them to the wheels. I initially considered it but wrote it off after not much thought; but after you suggested it, I checked it again and realized it was doable. used some blutac to fix the bogeys to the side of the hull because they fit real loose on the suspension and swung about and fell off constantly.
result was pretty flawless, and on the first try too. looking forward to doing this again tomorrow, it was actually kind of fun despite being monotonous.
>>
Should I start a 1/72 collection?
I have a lot of dust problems in my room so I'm thinking about getting a class cabinet to put on my bookshelf and filling it with 1/72 dioramas
>>
>>10237633
make sure you leave one connection unglued
>>
>>10237186
>"It's gonna be worth something one day"
I just found out that my old Omega Seamaster went 5X in price ever since I had it (bout 5-6 years), but for that money it's easier to just work hard for, rather than scalp, speculate and hoard.

With scale models this is just not worth fucking around, even if it does go up in value in ten years, which it won't. Maybe a box will actually go up in NOMINAL value, due to inflation, and that'll be enough to trick a boomer's brain into thinking this was a viable side-hustle in the end.
>>
>>10237165
Put the glue onto the other part if that helps hide things, clean up excess with CA debonder/knife/file, or my default: move your head back a few inches so you can't see the ooopsie any more...
>>
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On sale at a local store, 50% off.

What's the catch? I live in East-Europe so boomers are very nitpicky rivet counters about T-55's. Is it just that PLA shit is very niche, and it's not the Tienanmen model, so it's been a shelf-warmer at the store?
>>
>>10237878
Could totally be shelf clearing. I don't know anyone building chink models (also Eastern Euro).
Seems like kinda new kit though, so idk.
>>
>>10237891
>I don't know anyone building chink models
I do, because I like building the baddies.
>>
>>10237768
I've not really seen much go up in price, and to really do much with that market the big problem is you have to store it. I kind of realise that of the big tottering piles of carboard boxes you see at big shows, that isn't really a model dealer, its someone with a barn buying them from people clearing commercial units. Its also far too volatile, the great lost kit gets reissued or Tamiya do a new tool of the subject and its over.

My understanding of boomers buying multiples is the intent to do some sort of series of models (say in different schemes) that they always get bored of two kits in. Frankly the only person I've ever seen pull that kind of serial production of is our mate twitterbro.
>>
>>10237894
Republic of China was on the correct side of history thiugh
>>
>>10238029
that is correct, the people's republic on the other hand is on the wrong side of history
>>
>>10238029
>>10238147
Without sounding like a soijak, the ROC is literally the Old Republic remnant/Rebels while the PRC is the Empire.
>>
>>10238164
contextualizing anything through the lens of star wars makes you sound like a soijak, though
>>
>>10238177
Even if you're an OT purist?

Also what F-14 kit did they use I wonder?
>>
My fucking neighbors are killing each other again, time to turn on the compressor.

I wish I had my dad's incredibly noisy bigass compressor that's the size of like a small diesel generator.
>>
>>10237660
nah the flexible enough to be bent to get them around the wheels, but strong enough not to break if I do it
thanks for the concern though
>>
>>10237878
>Is it just that PLA shit is very niche
Literally just this, that shit always ends up on clearance. It's just a T55 with a NATO cannon and ERA panels. I'd buy it, tank is good fun in Warthunder and I like the aesthetic. More T-55's are always good.
>>
>>10237878
make it into the battlemaster tank from generals
>>
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Panels lined, varnish to knock down the gloss, and top wing bullied into place. Now for some light rigging and it'll be done.
>>
>>10235101
>>10235205
Don't you understand his pain?
His wife/gf/parents don't allow him to use smelly paints indoors so he has to do it outdoors, can't bring the model in it is gonna smell bad, can't leave it outdoors cuz it is too cold
>>
>>10238777
>His wife/gf/parents don't allow him to use smelly paints indoors
nta but I live with my parents but they don't care what I do. if anything I just don't want to give them fucking cancer with the paints I use
>>
>>10238777
anon i dont think you really want to be using spray cans indoors unless you enjoy scraping paint off everything
>>
STOP MAKING KITS WITH THESE TRACKS TRUMPETER AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
>>
>page 9
new tread
>>10239006
>>10239006
>>10239006
>>
>>10239002
no



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