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French Supremacy, Tiger Models please come back...edition

Previous thread: >>10146601

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful. ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:
https://www.scalemates.com/
http://www.mediafire.com/view/1vf1aw7v91pz5pa/Airfix%20Model%20World%20Specia%20%28Scale%20Modelling%20Step-By-Step%29.pdf
http://www.scalemodelguide.com/
http://www.modelersite.com/en/area/98/scale-models-techniques
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Tools.html
http://fichtenfoo.net/blog/model-tutorials-and-in-progs
http://ipmsstockholm.org/
https://www.perthmilitarymodelling.com/
http://www.primeportal.net/home.htm

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
>ebay
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
>>
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based and palestinapilled.
>>
What was the most ridiculous model kit you've ever built?
>>
>>10156631
A Russian tank, just imagining that someone would call blatant scam a tank with a straight face is ridiculous
>>
>>10156690
Which tank and which manufacturer? Some older tanks can be a real pain to put together, yours may have been an old kit.
>>
>>10156630
Anon, is this yours?
It looks pretty horribad desu. The explosion is ok I guess.
>>
Happy Thanksgiving smg

Any good black friday deals spotted?
>>
>>10156748
wording this post. i want to consoooooom.
there isnt much on amazon, mostly ICM.

out of the very few sites i checked out these ones had some decent sale items:
https://spruebrothers.com/
https://andyshhq.com/
https://www.kitlinx.com/index.html
https://www.eduard.com/
(seems to have a sale on their pe sets)
>>
Hello friends,
I am terrible at building models. Have fucked up every one I've ever touched. Is there hope for me or will I always be retarded?
What airbrush kit would you recommend? I've tried hand painting entire models with acrylics and oils and I always, always manage to make it look like a toddler shit all over it.
Are Tamiya kits still good? I want to buy the BMP2 IFV.
>>
>>10156954
Tamiya kits are super easy to assemble and the detail is pretty good
>>
>>10156954
buy the old ass tamiya panzer II kit for $13ish to practice and fuck up on before you build something you like.
buy a small can of spraypaint to paint your models until you get an airbrush.
>>
>>10156948
HLJ black friday sale is up but their website is eating shit right now.
>>10156954
Like everyone else said Tamiya is literally retard proof. Also just get Tamiya rattlecans to start out, if you struggle with building a basic model you're gonna get frustrated with an airbrush pretty quick, not to mention the big expense. Just get model building down first and go from there. Practice using the rattlecan on a random piece of plastic first (or you can practice by spraying the underside of the hull first) so you don't spray too much. Remember = multiple light passes > Spraying one huge glob of paint in one go to get full coverage
>>
>>10157031
Not sure if it's intentional but HLJ is currently showing me a lot of the sale items only having discounts of 0.50-$1
>>
>>10156981
>>10157022
>>10157031
Thank you very much for the info.
I can usually build the models ok it's the painting I always fuck up.
Only thing I really struggle with the models on is figuring out which glue to use. I don't have a lot of experience and my time between each build was probably a year so I bought new or different glue each time and they all seemed to work very differently. Some melted the shit out of the kits, others didn't hold well at all. Any recommendations on that end?
>>
>>10157160
best case scenario you'd have four glues;
>extra thin
>extra thin (quick setting)
>CA glue (gel)
>CA glue (liquid)
if you're strapped for money just get one of the extra thins, and some gel CA glue.
>figuring out which glue to use
CA glue is great for attaching small pieces to each other or to larger pieces: like antennae, AA guns, landing gear, and so forth -- particularly stuff that won't just sit there and let you glue it in place. for landing gear, you'd have to hold it in place for a while as the extra thin glue dries; very annoying. with CA glue, it should grab and start drying almost immediately.
extra thin is better for attaching larger pieces to each other, especially along longer seam lines.
of course, there is no general rule for using the various types of glue. a lot of it just comes with experience.
>>
>>10157205
Thank you for the help. I appreciate it greatly.
>>
>>10156954
Currently there are no good BMP-2 kits available
Your options are ancient dragon trash (zvezda), ill fitting trumpeter mediocrity or some mystery meat garage resin kit
>>
>>10156779
Life-scale or fuck off

Give me a Marichka sex bot
>>
>>10157205
what about hobby cement, would that be good too?
>>
>>10157259
>>10155995
>wet palette
this is why your paint isn't that thick
>model
serviceable but very, very basic, even for brush painters
looks frosty from either bad priming or excessive pigments from unthinned paint
>>
>>10156631
in terms of annoying shit, far a full interior 1/35 7TP from IBG
in terms of challenge, 1/72 FW190 with full engine and every aftermarket PE upgrade; paint scheme included some very tricky masking of the front engine cowl
>>
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>>10157372
>>10156779
1/48 Scale strapped to an Mi-8 when?
>>
>>10157483
hobby cement are extra thin and extra thin quick setting on his list
>>10157205
>>10157290
I've found use for slow setting thick cement, i.e. revell contacta, for when I need to put a finnicky bit in place, align it and then I can add the tiniest drop of extra thin to quickly set it in place (contacta seems to dry for 15mins or longer)
>>
Love how the resident butthurt vatnik can never let it be, and always takes the bait.
>>
>>10157495
how tightly do you have to press the ends together, and for how long?
>>
>>10157501
OK, let me elaborate

mr hobby cement SP extra thin
>put the bits together
>dab with a slightly wet brush
>press gently
>if too much glue had been transferred and I squeeze hard, little pearls of melted plastic will squeeze out from the gap
>dries and hardens within seconds

revell contacta
>put a drop on the area to glue
>put the bits together
>press gently, bit's sliding
>tried pressing harder once, bit slid off the glue area, plastic there didn't go all gooey like with mr cement
>once left a bit for a minute or two, it still wasn't glued down

I suspect revell adds way more retarder; like I mentioned, I don't trust revell on its own, I use it for aligning fiddly bits that I can't easily hold together for mr cement
>>
>>10157504
i guess tamiya cement would be faster then.

and i was asking if you ever had to clamp the pieces together.
>>
>>10157506
>and i was asking if you ever had to clamp the pieces together.
with mr cement, never for neither planes nor tanks
never tried with contacta
>>
>>10157498
runignogs still haven't recovered form their previous embarrassment and now they've lost last shreds of relevance on the world stage so it makes sense that they'd be angry

I wonder what zvezda's profits look like now
>>
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>>10157541
>I wonder what zvezda's profits look like now
Probably really good, people are building lots of captureshit.
>>
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New Zvezda models for the next year:
1/35 STZ-5 Katyusha
1/35 BMP-3
1/35 T-62 mod 1972
1/35 Stug 4
1/35 Su-76

More new models will be released soon.
>>
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>>10157571
>1/35 BMP-3
>1/35 T-62 mod 1972
Oh great, they're doing Ukraine war stuff.
>>
>>10156738
fuck you, retard
>>
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I hope the BMP-3 doesn't get canned due to the current circumstances, their T-62 and T-70 were great
>>
>>10157493
>this is the best thing that russian psyops can produce
Vanjka, vanjka never changes.
>>
>>10157577
Nah, the T-62 is NOT the Ukrainian version, it is still an earlier one.

They promise the war version in the future though.
>>
>>10157543
>Probably really good, people are building lots of captureshit.
everyone in my circles stopped buying shit produced by russian comoanies
>>
>>10157606
Oh yes, this will TEACH THEM A LESSON, THEY WILL NEVER RECOVER from the fact that 3.5 butthurt Europeans refused to buy Russian

Relax, Zvezda is doing great as well as other Russian model manufacturers.
>>
>>10157603
By that time the mod. 1972 will be the war version.
>>
I'm looking to get back in the hobby after a long break. But unsure what scale to start buying plane kits in. Any thoughts, pros and cons of 1:72 vs bigger like 1:48 and 1:32?
On a side note, my dad just dropped of two boxes of models i built 20years ago, i'm scared they will look like twitterbro and haven't looked at them yet.
>>
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>>10157787
1/72 is better if you plan to build a lot, not good if you have shaky hands or just don't like small parts in general. 1/48 is somewhat easier to work with because of the large scale but its more expensive, especially if you want aftermarket shit, and of course the biggest downside is they take up a lot of room depending on what you want to build.

Honestly I'd go with 1/48 if you want WW2 shit or below, for anything else 1/72 is better since most jets are massive.

I'm gonna order this bad boy wish me luck smg.
>>
>>10157483
hobby cement ("plastic cement") are extra thin; or rather, extra thin is a type of hobby cement. there are thicker plastic/hobby cements, but I rarely, if ever, use them. extra thin helps you do things that CA (and thicker hobby cements) can't.
>>
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>manage to score the last Pavla models F-89 Scorpion resin intakes on Earth on some obscure as fuck Italian website
All I need now is to find the unobtanium cockpit set
>>
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mentally ill dragon initial tigerbro here, i ve put in countless hours since my last update and theres not much progress. just sliding paint around on the surface with thinner and undoing the chipping and things i've already done countless times as usual. still its really close to done. this pic is already waaay out of date. hope vallejo primer is gentle enough to not disintegrate the rubber magic tracks
i dropped the hull on the floor but have since repaired all that damage. i am getting really close to finishing. im hoping to get it done before 2023
>>
>>10157890
>i ve put in countless hours since my last update and theres not much progress. just sliding paint around on the surface with thinner and undoing the chipping and things i've already done countless times as usual.
I know your type. you people can never finish anything, always fucking around and messing with it and changing it.
it looks really good, just commit to it and finish it. don't keep playing with your food, anon.
>>
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>>10157895
imma upload all the pics on some site and link the gallery after it will be nuts you'll just see it getting better and worse. this pic is from 1 month prior to that one
>>
>>10157490
Let's see your models, anon.
>>
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>>10157606
>my circles
>>
>>10157890
>>10157902
For what it's worth, those scratches are lovely.
>>
>>10157606
>He based his model buying on politics
Bro... its plastic.
>>
>>10157606
more Zvezda and Combrig kits for me, lmao
>>
Does there exist 1/35 figures of dudes with MANPADS or am I going to have to learn to sculpt
>>
Where do i go to get pictures specific systems in use in Ukraine? I can’t just Google them since 99% of results are re-used pre-war pics
>>
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>>10157970
now you
>>
>>10157890
>hope vallejo primer is gentle enough to not disintegrate the rubber magic tracks
it should be fine

this is some extreme weathering, something I just don't have patience for
>>
New Zvezda airplanes coming in hot.

>>10159112
i use LostArmour / Oryx (they list mostly losses though)
Telegram war channels (tricky to find)
>>
Brand NEW 1/144 Tu-95 Bear.
That's a breakthrough!
>>
Yet another Yak-9 in 1/48
War Thunder fans must be happy, I can barely tell them apart.
>>
>>10158203
3d printed, held together with pure willpower, milliput and CA glue. It was when I was starting out with 3dp, so the resin was kind of crap and most of the joints just cracked and broke. It was meant to be articulated.
>>
>(((Black Friday)))
>only T-80 variants shops have on sale are the ones that didn't show up in Ukraine
>>
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When the apocalypse has an apocalypse, it may require towing
Fortunately it now has a tow cable
>>
>>10159157
Noise, Tu-95MS, right?
>>
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I think I may finally be getting the hang of using Tamiya panel liner. I don't think I was waiting long enough for it to dry, and was worried the brushes/Q-tips would take away all of the wash if they were anything more than very slightly damp.
feels good to have learnt something new, friends
>>
What's the best way to make custom decals? i have tried inkjet waterslide sheets but even the white backed ones arent really amazing.
>>
>>10159696
welcome to a better thread
I have been told that if you want custom waterslides, is to hit up a local nail art store on etsy, see if they take custom requests. They will have high quality printers that can do white ink. nail decals arent much diffirent than the ones on models
>>
>>10159696
also, check aliexpress carefully first, they might already have what you want
>>
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should I pull the trigger boys?
>>
To all who replied in the previous thread about weathering the spitfire, thanks - a muted wash looks like it's the way to go.

I also have another question about a tank kit, a 1/48 Panzer Wirbelwind that I'm doing a 1944 Winter paintjob on (or whatever it is on the box). The instructions say that the color to paint all the treads should be 'metallic Gray' but is there any reason it couldn't just be flat black?
>>
Body parts are put on loose, no weathering added yet, but its coming together. The plow was a bit of tricky business. It's designed in a way to be movable but I don't see how unless you add your own chain. It comes with rubber tubing in the box but to way to adjust it once glued. Rigged the chain to be re-connected at different lengths so I can pose the plow at different angles and also height.
>>
>>10159976
Black looks unrealistic on models, a dark gray/brown is generally better for tracks, with maybe some drybrushing with a metallic paint.
But if you are going to be covering the tracks with lots of weathering the color doesn't really matter.
>>
>>10159989
you made sure the grill/headlight area is actually apart of the design and not mold lines right? because it looks like mold lines
>>
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>>10160009
Initially thought the same thing but they're too deep to be mold lines; i'm pretty sure that's just the design. Once the grill/lamps are in, its panel lines I'm pretty sure is the aesthetic.
>>
>>10160013
anon...... its clearly mold lines........ rookie mistake
>>
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>>10160023
shhhh
>>
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>>10160013
these
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2 of them are stylistic, but yes, there are definitely lines I should have removed
>>
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cant decide how to paint mine... you cant go wrong with classic italian red, but that candy blue is something else, id also have to wait for the blue ones decal set
>>
>>10159994
I have Tamiya Neutral Gray, would that work?

I guess the better question is what the hell are tank treads actually made of. Maybe due to a lack of actually looking into it all my life, I always assumed they were rubber all the way back to the ancient Mk. Is.
>>
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The more i learn about hobby, the more i notice how much in common modelling and manicure have
>>
>>10160391
I would mix some black into that, it looks a bit light in pictures. You could also apply a dark wash over it but it would look even better if you do both.
Tank tracks in reality are mostly metal, in particular on the wirbelwind you are building they are metal.
>>
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>>10159976
>The instructions say that the color to paint all the treads should be 'metallic Gray' but is there any reason it couldn't just be flat black?
They would have been bare metal in reality (with varying degrees of surface oxidation). Painted tracks are a static museum display thing to prevent rust, it won't last long if go driving. All rubber tracks are a thing that exists, but I'm pretty sure not for that vehicle.
>>
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>>10160434
You know that tanks are for girls. right?
>>
>>10160434
I mean you can convert manicuring tools into modelling tools if you really want.
>>
>>10160434
I used to hate having my nails catch on things and feel rough for a few days after cutting them but now I have easy access to what is essentially a nail file and no longer have that problem
>>
>>10160574
>tanks are for girls
I always knew there must be a reason I like wheeled vehicles more than tanks
>>
>>10159964
is the fire included?
>>
>>10160617
i can scratchbuild that
>>
>>10160599
>not filing your nails on a rotary tool sand disc (Dremel, Proxxon, etc)
mediocre...
>not cutting your nails on a milling cutter
pathetic...
>>
>>10158644
The only one I can think of is the Italeri/Dragon VDV Strela dude.
>>
Now that Scalemates has shut down which website will take its place?
>>
>>10159157
That could be the Revell kit which had been reboxed by Zvezda a while ago.
>>
>>10160703
You okay buddy?
>>
>>10160703
Have you taken your meds?
>>
>>10160706
They explicitly told this will not be a rebox, but a brand new tooling model.
(They reboxed Ka-27, Mig-23, Ju-88G6 and BMP-1 with M3 Scout)

>>10160703
Up and running for me. Check your browser.
>>
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about an hour to mask, paint and clean airbrush for these patches of green. likely 10 more hours needed... just for the green
>>
>>10160748
lookin' good though
>>
>>10160748
just use a damn paintbrush, at least for the contour of the shapes, the difference in quality will be insignificant
>>
>>10160748
Free hand it
>>
>>10160761
>>10160763
no, not for the green. been down that road before and it's not any better. maybe for the black as that will likely cover in 1 or 2 coats
>>
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>when your fokker EV comes with a PE black sun
>>
>>10160789
There is no hope under the black sun, anon.
>>
>>10160789
VGH...
>>
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Well, this apparently just wasn't allowed to work out. Canopy and fuselage are somewhat banana'd compared to each other, so an amount of force is required to get a decent fit. Meaning all those canopy safe acrylic/PVA/whatever glues are right out. Second, the black bit with the main sight in front/ahead of the front instrument panel sits a bit higher than it should, so it gets squeezed against the wind-shield. Add a drop of extra thin and schlorp, half the wind shield's been coated on the inside.
Well then, some sanding, polishing and varnishing later and the canopy ain't good as new but at least it ain't quite so bad any more. So try again, now with regular cement. A teeny tiny amount along the edge and... it gets squeezed up onto the lower wind shield again. So fuck it, this is clearly how it's meant to be by the powers that be.
In other news the main pitot tube is one long, thin rod of plastic (I'm sure you're all very surprised by that), to which twelve little PE fins are to be glued. If someone think gluing a PE thin just butt-on to the side of a thin plastic rod seems like a problem, don't worry, these PE bits have little tabs on them to fit into little holes. Little quarter millimetre holes that you're to drill yourself into the side of the very thin plastic rod. So I guess I'll just get the landing gear bits ready as well and then pause this thing while whoever I end up buying it from ships me Maser Models brass-and-resin version instead, where all the fins come cast as one with a pair of hollow resin tubes that you simply slide onto the main brass rod.
>>
>>10160886
>these PE bits have little tabs on them to fit into little holes. Little quarter millimetre holes that you're to drill yourself into the side of the very thin plastic rod.
welcome to hell
>>
Gaiz, I normally don't do WW2 shit, so help me out:

How should I prime/base a 1:72 standard grey/green Spitfire?
>gray primer plus panel pre-shading
>black basing and camo marbling
>some other method
>>
>>10160960
I primed my FW190 in gray and pre-shaded with black (kinda regretted not doing it in a contrast colour, would get a stronger effect)
do whatever you're comfortable with, I guess
>>
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>>10160960
I don't think you should marble it personally, just feels wrong. I think the panels are too big relative to the size of the aircraft so I'd go with the first option.
>>
>>10160960
>>gray primer plus panel pre-shading
>>black basing and camo marbling
I'd do the latter, leaning into a combined variant by not putting as much marbling over the panel lines, but they all work.
>>
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finished
GAZ-67B Chapaev / Gazik ; 1/35 ; Tamiya
>>
>>10159805
i have some custom art to print, so im hoping one of them will have what i need
>>
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Sanded the marks down and resurfaced the affected area, but didn't want to strip the whole piece. It looks "ok"
the right side looks actually really nice but the left doesn't want to color match. any suggestions? Maybe I should try to just make it 'rusty'? but it would be kinda odd looking if I did that
1st model in about 20 years so I'm not too sure how to approach it
>>
Any car modelers here know if they made a nice Lada model? If in 1/35 even better.
>>
>>10161414
You'd be hard-pressed to find any 210X kits
Looks like the only option is a garage resin company operating from Russia
>>
>>10161414
https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=Kits&q=lada&fkTYPENAME[]=%22Full%20kits%22
>>
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about 90 minutes to finish the side. Getting faster as I get a feel for the masking putty. Some clean up on the edges is needed, but I was expecting that. I'm finding out that proper airbrush masking putty is much easier to work with than blu-tac
>>
>>10160442
>>10160512

Thanks guys, really appreciate the advice as well as the tidbit about museums painting the tracks on static tanks. When the weather gets nicer again (can't airbrush inside, don't have a set-up or really a place to do one since my workspace is in the basement) I'll give a neutral gray/black mix a go.
>>
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>>10161718
>When the weather gets nicer again (can't airbrush inside, don't have a set-up or really a place to do one since my workspace is in the basement)
I thought about airbrushing my tracks on my Toldi the way I did with my Renault over the summer but ended up just brushpainting. put down a Dark Iron base coat, put down a very light coat (basically drybrushed) of a dark red-brown rust color, then drybrushed a metallic silver on top.
worked ok I think, though I don't think you can see it too well in this picture
>>
>>10161414
In 1/35 there are no plastic ladas.
But GuntowerModels makes resin ones: 2101, 21011, 2103, 2102, and even 2106

Don't know if you can pay them directly from abroad.

Fucking 1:43 and diecasters, the sole reason civilian cars in 1:35/1:72 are dead (japs like tamiya and aoshima are an exception).
>>
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Why is it so fucking expensive? The 1/35 scale meng shilka is cheaper.
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has anyone built this? is it nice?
>>
>>10161968
imagine wanting to build a moped and not a motorcycle
>>
>>10161971
i think it looks neat :]
>>
>>10161968
Oh hey a postie bike, too bad they give them cuck tier electric tricycles now
>>
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>>10162060
scale model fucking when?
they still use the new model C110s in my area
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>>10161683
For this subject you could have also cut out stencils out of index card.
>>
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mak in 1/35 is weird
>>
>>10157490
>>wet palette
>this is why your paint isn't that thick

If you're painting acrylics with a brush and no wet palette you're either a moron or insane. And before someone starts screeching, I don't mean you should buy some overhyped crap. A kitchen sponge with baking paper works just fine.
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PzWdGw2YMS0
Nice
>>
>>10162257
>he can't use retarder
ngmi
>>
>>10162257
This >>10162309
Tamiya with retarder and tiny bit of thinner is the single best option for brush painting.
>>
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>>10161895
>Why is it so fucking expensive
Because you are buying a Ukrainian kit from Japan, genius? Also, lots of PE.
>>
It’s kinda hilarious how bad western model companies are compared to eastern or eastern-european ones, in both quality and practice.
>>
>>10163326
It's just a reflection of the hobby's popularity in different regions.
>>
>>10163326
Are there western model companies left?
>>
>>10163375
Airfix, Revell and AMT
>>
>>10160512
real tanks have "mold lines" ;)
>>
Does anyone know any western retailers who take preorders for planes and tank kits? I'm trying to stop using HLJ because shipping rates went up again so it's no longer really worth using them (they want 60$ to ship my 1/48 Lightning to the US WTF) but the whole reason I use them is to preorder new releases.
>just don't preorder
Yeah then I'll end up in a situation like with the 1/72 Vulcan Airfix put out a while ago that sold out instantly and didn't get a second run for half a year.
>>
>>10163420
Just ask your local hobby store to pre-order the kit
>>
>>10163441
I don't think my LGS has ever even heard of Sword. Also they suck, they mainly focus on RC cars.
>>
>>10163452
Then it's time to move out of your third world country
>>
>>10163420
Get a job in East Asia or pay up goy.
>>
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>>10163452
I'm so fucking sick of RC eating up shop space I know it sells well but fuck me
>>
>>10162309
>haha why save your paints for days and weeks when you can add 30 minutes to the work time :^)
The only retard here is you.
>>
>>10163518
Yeah all the pure scale model shops around me have shut down, the only ones left are now RC focused and they barely carry anything anymore, most of them have pushed all the scale modeling stuff into a corner and pretty much never update inventory, I've pretty much moved to buying everything purely online.
>>
>>10163621
Yep, the most "model shop" around here is one that is 1/3 RC, 1/3 model trains and 1/3 scale models (including weird wooden ones etc.) but I really don't buy much from there anymore because it's easier to buy everything I actually need from a Polish online store than get like a pot of glue and a few overpriced Tamiya paints from the local store that still has to ship from another city. The alternative is board game/wargame shop combos, that stock 40k stuff from jew workshop and army painter paints, but those are pretty shit.
>>
>>10163619
What the fuck are on about?
>>
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>Tamiya rereleases 1/48 Bf109, P-51 and Hien with cars
>It's cheaper to buy each combo separately
>>
>>10163675
Schizo coping with buyers remorse
>>
>>10163758
I wish germcucks painted Eurofighters with BF109 schemes.
>>
>>10163378
>Airfix
>"western"
Should I remind you how they went belly-up and the only reason they are still alive is because some Indian business tycoon went full nostalgic of his childhood and bought it?

Yes, airfix is not even "British" now.

>>10163326
Ahem I digress.
Eastern Europe is uncontested in short-run and resin kits. Czechs, Poles, Ukrs, you name it. + Aftermarket and P.E. shit.
They have a couple of "high quality injection mold producers" like Zvezda or ICM but that's about it.

It is chinks and other asians who make the bulk of the goodies...

And Westerners? Well, it is like European industry - outsourced for cheaper labour.
>>
>>10163808
Some (maybe all but I doubt it) of their production is still in the UK
>>
>>10163808
And also Miniart, IBG and Eduard, three excellent slav companies.
Roden is a bit shit but has its redeeming qualities.
>>
>>10163621
>>10163628
Just in terms of things having stuff, Hobby Lobby isn't too bad for pure model kits. I mean, yeah, it's Hobby Lobby (or as a friend justifiably calls it, 'Hobby Lobbyist'), but those monthly 40% discounts on all models isn't exactly something to sneeze at.

Though in terms of quality of stock, the HobbyTownUSA near me (read: 30 minute drive one way) has far more 'interesting' models.
>>
>>10163795
Never gonna happen. They won't even have the balls to do a Norm 72 scheme.
>>
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uohhhh bros, we finally made it...
>>
>>10163910
lame, call me when they make a little girls set
>>
>>10163907
>meanwhile RAF
>>
>>10163795
at this rate, we will see ukrainian mig-29s painted this way
>>
>>10163935
I have an aftermarket decal set to do that eurofighter. And a Canadian f-18 in those markings too. 1/32 scale for both.
>>
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>>10163935
>meanwhile in Germany
>>
>>10163986
Where is LGBT flag? Why are they so homophobic!
>>10163937
Do they have any left? Anyway better than pixel camo, pixel camo is fake and gay.
>>
>>10164090
don't worry bro, they will certainly smash Russia with a final push using their state-of-the-art yak-9
>>
>>10163910
Relieved in a way, this will mean the curious talents of Masterbox's A.GAGARIN will not need to be called upon.
>>
>>10159200
I don't want to piss on you parade but I find the tow cable too thin for the huge ass tank and the attachment too symmetric and counterintuitive. It looks like a stumbling hazard for the driver.
>>
>>10164153
Bitch
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>>10164090
Pixel camo is based as fuck. This is the part where I'd say China will surpass Russia but well...shall we say, our Slavoid friends have shown their true hand a bit early and that point has long passed.
>>
>>10164111
Can you just please take your three brain cells with you and fuck off back to bumping your containment thread.
>>
>>10164153
Didn't think about how thick the cable was compared to the tow eyes, I will probably change it
I reckon my setup offers better ergonomics for the driver, given that the original front plate has a go-faster stripe, hammer and sickle and mine plough/tri-blade combo
>>
>>10164207
Russians are faggots for abandoning their three-color MERDC-knockoff for simple solid green.
>>
>>10162343
>how to tell someone hasn't tried any other paints for brush painting.
Thankfully it's not outlawed to be retarded anymore.
>>
do you guys have any recommendations for a clay-like putty for molding new bits entirely, or extending existing pieces? I have some epoxy putty but only really use that to fill in certain gaps.
>>
>>10164251
Milliput, green stuff, brown stuff, tamiya epoxy, clay. Really the options are endless.
>>
>>10164247
Not him but
Paints I've tried so far (brush painting):
AK 3rd gen acrylics
Vallejo acrylics
Mr hobby acrylics
Humbrol enamels
Tamiya acrylics + retarder
Result:
Tamiya wins.
>>
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>>10164271
>brush-painting Tamiyas is better than AK 3rd Gen, Humbrols, and Vallejos
>>
>>10164279
Yes, silly billy frogposter
>>
>>10164279
I'm just giving you my honest opinion man.
Humbrol paints are a colossal pain in the arse to open and to stir, also they react badly to weathering products.
Ak and Vallejo dry before the little bubbles pop and this causes little craters on the surface. Moreover, if there is paint accumulation this tends to separate into different crazy shades while it dries. Say what you want about Tamiya, but I've never ever had these problems with it.
I will admit, however, that I sometimes still use AK for figures and small details and surfaces.
>>
>>10164247
It's very hard to beat Gunze and Tamiya. Shit's on another level compared to beginner paint meant for literal children (Vallejo, Humbrol)
>>
>>10164290
Do people unironically use enamels like humbtrash for actual painting? Shit's way too glossy and bright
>>
>>10164332
yes alot of boomers still unironically use that shit for fullpaintjobs
>>10164290
>Ak and Vallejo dry before the little bubbles pop and this causes little craters on the surface. Moreover, if there is paint accumulation this tends to separate into different crazy shades while it dries. Say what you want about Tamiya, but I've never ever had these problems with it.
that just sounds like you're soaking the model rather than beushing properly, tamiya for me does the same shit when i do that
>>
>>10164386
Dunno, there might be different factors at play.
Personally I've found that if I flood the surface with Vallejo thinned with tap water it's a catastrophe, but even with careful painting I still get some craters.
With Tamiya in both cases I never have any problems, in the first scenario I might drown some details but that's it.
>>
>>10164434
*With Tamiya + acrylic thinner
>>
You don't even know how to paint. Your brush is overloaded.
>>
>>10164434
>Personally I've found that if I flood the surface with Vallejo thinned with tap water it's a catastrophe, but even with careful painting I still get some craters.
you're overloading your brushes lmao
>>
>>10164471
Nigger if I say "careful painting" it means that, overloaded brush or not, I'm making sure that only a thin layer goes onto the surface , and that the paint doesn't pool.
>>
>>10157504
as far as I can tell the thinner cements just lack any sort of resin and are just pure solvent
i might just be retarded but i use the regular cement on more delicate stuff like individual guidehorns on plastic tracks. when using the thinner cements they’re a lot more brittle.
>>
>>10164471
just accept that consistency is a reason to use something and stop coping. these emulsion acrylics will always be mediocre .
>will I get a good coat or waste an entire bottle of paint blowing chunks out of my airbrush for 3 hours?
>why didn’t I just use lacquer and get it done right the first time?
>>
>>10164552
legitimately a skill issue. learn to thin your paint properly
>>
>>10164566
imagine wasting time on learning a shitty type of paint instead of just painting with something that works
is the reason some people never develop skills is because they’re too busy unclogging the blob of vallejo in their airbrush?
>>
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>>10164572
>learning how to thin paints and not overload my brush, something that took me probably 1 week of experience while making my first model, is too complicated for this anon and leads to a massive chimpout, requiring him to use substandard paints for the job while adding in 48 different products just to make it workable
anon, I...
>>
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>oh wow 20+ replies in a single refresh, great to see activity in-
>it's just 3 children bickering over paint types
Jesus christ. Oh well, at least it's not zigger nonsense. It would be cool if some of you posted what you were working on every once in a while though.
>>
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is this stuff any good?
>>
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>>10164247
I've used almost every brand of hobby paint for brush painting except Humbrol and Ammo paints. Tamiya is by far the best choice. Hataka are also pretty good but their pigments are inconsistent and are more expensive. Vallejo is good only for figures because every single bottle of paint has it's own mystery formula for thinning and retarding and anything lighter than german gray looks like ass.
But if you swear by other brands that I find to be abhorrent and it works for you, so be it, you won't catch me autistically screeching because some guy on an anonymous toy painting forum doesn't use the same stuff as me.
>>
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>>10164633
>I've used almost every brand of hobby paint for brush painting except Humbrol and Ammo paints. Tamiya is by far the best choice.
>>
>>10164614
nobody’s chimping out, it’s paint. i’m just suggesting a different type of paint that’s more forgiving for beginners and also has a bunch of benefits. diff anon btw
>48 products
what
>>
>>10164628
im waiting for it to arrive. RFM tiger 100 plus upgrade set
>>
>>10164628
Im sorry I asked about the thinning ratio of Vallejo paints and starting this.
>>
>>10164665
The /smg/ classic - asking about what shade to use on a model and then ending up with a debate on how light reflection works and why Bosnia deserved it.
>>
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>>10164628
I don't really take work in progress pictures, but currently working on a 1/72 sd.kfz.222.
>>
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>>10164628
Here's my WIP. Painted with Tamiya acrylics with a brush. Almost looks like it was done with an airbrush

Buy Tamiya, guys!
>>
>>10164631
*sniffs*
>>
>>10164290
The only place where you should use Humbrol enamels is the inside of a trash can.

>Ak and Vallejo dry before the little bubbles pop
The problem is clearly you. Sounds like you are thinning it to shit and mixing them into a smoothie.

>Moreover, if there is paint accumulation
There's your problem

>Say what you want about Tamiya
Tamiya is perfect for airbrushing, but for extensive brush painting the alternatives are just objectively better. Tamiya only gets great coverage with an airbrush. For brush painting it either streaks or you have to do several layers. Might be worth if you literally only glaze with a brush. Still the range isn't aimed at brush painting.
>>
>>10164326
I'm not sure if you're trying to false flag again or are retarded.

>>10164572
>Imagine learning
Anon I don't know how to say this, but you sound like a retard

>>10164633
Telling people to use Tamiya paints for paint brushing instead of paints actually created for paint brushing just because you don't believe in wet palettes is dumb.
Look at this >>10164690 "Painted with Tamiya acrylics with a brush"
>Almost looks like it was done with an airbrush
Yeah no, it looks barely better than the finger-painted humbrols of twitterbro.
>>
>get halfway through weathering a model
>start up a new one entirely
Why am I like this
>>
>>10164932
Everyone needs a change sometimes, but you should try and go back to the previous ones as well. Once you get back into it, they will complete themselves.
>>
>>10164538
>generally
God, I love Japs writing in English, wish they never change
>>
>>10164928
>Yeah no, it looks barely better than the finger-painted humbrols of twitterbro.
the gaz-67b was pained using Tamiya
>>
>>10164955
That's certainly better, but as retaredered anon put it
>serviceable but very, very basic, even for brush painters
Hate to say it, but the corpse-makeup looking Red Baron isn't as good looking as he thinks either.

I've painted Tamiya paints as well. Yes I know you CAN brush pain them. But I also know that there are other paints out there that act much much better when applied with a brush.
>>
>>10164958
>Hate to say it, but the corpse-makeup looking Red Baron isn't as good looking as he thinks either.
hey, that was my first bust ever and I know it's not THAT great

I have some brush-painted 40k minis but no good photos of them on hand, so I just sent the latest brushwork I had
>>
>>10164962
If you're not that into brush painting in the first place and just dabbling in it, why do you keep insisting that "waah tamiya lacquers are THEEE BEST for brush painting!!!"?
>>
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>finally hunt down super obscure cockpit resin kit thats out of production on some obscure czech scale model website
>they don't ship internationally
Gonna email them and BEG them to ship to me wish me luck bros
>>
>>10164969
>Not 1/72 scale
wtf I want one too.
>>
>>10164969
now where's the 1/35 shrek ICM?
>>
>>10165001
1/35 Ogre from famous 3d cartoon
>>
>>10164928
>>10164958
Why should I keep struggling with other paints that are supposed to be "objectively better", wasting time, money and kits when I've already found the combination of tools perfect for my needs and requirements? Other acrylics just don't work for me no matter the crazy incantations you keep suggesting just to get an even coat when I already have an algorithm figured out to get the same or even better result.
That is why when someone asks me what to use when brush painting I'd answer with Tamiya + retarder.
>>
>>10165013
Based boomer retard with his dumb ways set in stone.
>>
>>10165014
>wow anon, it seems you have this brush painting thing figured out for yourself
>BUT WHY DON'T YOU KEEP TRYING WITH RHIS OTHER METHOD DEAPITE ALREADY HAVING TRIED IT AND WASTE MORE TIME AND MONEY TRYING TO FIGHT TOOLS THAT CLEARLY DON'T SEEM TO WORK FOR YOU?
>Don't feel like doing that and prefer to sticking to what you know and what gives you results? Psh, fucking boomers man...
Don't reply to my posts ever again, fucking turd sniffer.
>>
>>10165019
You seem awfully bitter about being shit at brush painting, lol.
>>
>>10165021
I guarantee you I'm better than you.
>>
>>10165013
Precisely my thoughts, I've made models both with vallejo and with Tamiya + retarder. Usually there's absolutely no difference, sometimes Vallejo is much worse. Tamiya is very easy to apply and it's forgiving, the result is super smooth, doesn't require too many coats, never drowns details, it's resistant to scratch etc.
Really the only downside I can think of is that sometimes paint on raised edges gets scraped off by subsequent layers, but that is taken care of by dry brushing rust or rub graphite
>>
>>10165024
Judging by that bust? Yeah lol no. (lmao even)
>>
>>10165013
You're like a guy that paints walls insisting that a paint roller is the best for free handing illustrations on a wall because you've never seen a paintbrush.
>>
>>10165034
That's the worst comparispn you could have possibly made. You might as well have made a food analogy. Did Yoshio Tamiya kill your dog? Why are you seething so hard?
>>10165030
Let's see your work.
>>
>>10165075
>Let's see your work.
Universal sign of being BTFO'd
>>
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>>10164971
Good luck, desu
>>
>>10165075
I already did, half of which you didn't have shit to say about and the other you tried to throw some vague underhanded insult at, due to the lack of any real criticism I'm guessing.
>>
>>10165100
My brother in Christ, you're on an anonymous board, I can't tell which post is yours. I've never replied or given criticism to any work ITT. Stop huffing paint, lacquerbrain.
>>
>>10165131
It was already obvious critical thinking wasn't your forte, you didn't have to specify.
>>
Oh, so you are trolling. Thanks for clarifying
>>
>>10164966
>why do you keep insisting that "waah tamiya lacquers are THEEE BEST for brush painting!!!"?
I never said that, schizo
you probably think there are 3 people writing in this thread
>>
>finally get my build featured in the op of a thread
>these are its contents
Damn
>>
>>10165173
is the counter-thread any better?
>>
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>>10165100
>>10165137
Anon, I urge you to follow the conversation all the way back, I think you'll find it is you who is lacking in critical thinking.
>>
>>10164674
Fuck Bosnia, Serbs deserved it more
>>
>>10165176
You know what, good point
This is a good thread
>>
>>10164971
>>they don't ship internationally
I guess that explains why they still had it in stock.
>>
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>it's a /WIP/ meme, sir, but it checks out
>>
Anyone know what shade / pattern German tanks were painted in in the 60s/70s? Because most I can get is the classic nato 3tone but I’m pretty sure that’s from the 80s
>>
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>>10165252
>he doesn't thin his paints
>>
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>>10165279
>he doesn't cum in his paints
>>
God I hate zimmerit
Spent two days on turret now I think i ruined this shit
>>
>>10165304
>slaaneshite demon figure
Yeah, 10000% canon
>>
>>10165437
Looks fine, mantlet looks slightly wonky but these things weren't perfect irl either. Why don't you invest in a tool?
>>
>>10165442
It is my first attempt at Zimmerit
I think I will re-do the mantle, it is not that hard with tamiya putty.

I've heard epoxy putty is better at zimmerit imitation but don't have much experience with it. Is it worth buying?
>>
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>>10165266
They were painted Gelboliv

>spend several hours perfectly weathering Abrams with oils
>spray varnish
>it goes from visible to barely perceptible
>>
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>>10165457
>preshade panels on a 109
>get "german light sky blue gray"
>thin it a tad more than usual, so the black can poke through
>it covers with 111% opacity on first coat
thanks obama
>>
>>10165437
Doesn't look that bad.

>>10165451
I really don't see how epoxy putty would work as it's less of a paste and more like plasticine or clay (so it tends to peel off the surface). One part acrylic putty has worked great for me using a zimmerit comb, specifically the AK white putty. Green stuff has a putty like that as well, but that's a lot more sticky and shrinks like hell. Haven't tried any others, but I've heard hardware store wood filler works too.

>>10165513
Pre-shading is dumb to begin with anyway.
>>
>>10165513
And that's why a lot of things I have painted in various Tamiya olive greens are post-shaded. Turns out that doing much more than filling up the paintbrush with thinner and then nodding in the paint pot's general direction...
>>
>>10165451
https://youtu.be/EFbWz2LIYYw
>>
>>10165437
You just need to scribe in deeper groves and peel off a few squares here in there, maybe some on the lower edges, and it'll look much better
>>
>>10165513
probably too late to say this but if you're preshading or marbling, the actual paint coat of the plane itself should be thinned to something like 4:1 or more thinner:paint, and applied in like 10 individual coats. sorry to hear it didn't go as expected anon. looking forward to you posting the final product tho
>>
>>10165524
Tamiya/Gunze is OP

Shit's way more opaque than any other paint in the market and Tamiya dries really matt too
>>
>>10165437
if this is your first attempt I'd say it looks quite good.
I could be a little more critical (in a fair way, like other anons) but I know I would just fuck up royally on my first attempt. don't be disheartened
(which kit is this btw, one of Meng's or Takom's $80 jobs?)
>>
>>10165544
Best video on this topic
>>
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>>10165605
>final product
oh that one's finished long time ago, I'm just still miffed
gotta retake pics, the only ones I got are poorly lit and I now know hot to set up phone cam better
>>10165524
yeah, they're gunze paints; their red wasn't that opaque, though, but the greens and greys are primer-level of coverage
>>
>>10165656
oh you were the FW anon, very based
>>
>>10165622
This is Takom repacked by Das Werk.

Anyway tile-square pattern was most likely a mistake, should have sticked to "ordinary" pattern zimmerit.
>>10165544
And yes, he prefers epoxy putty over ordinary.
>>
>>10165609
>and Tamiya dries really matt too
To the point where Tamiya's flat red often ends up pink for me (until I varnished).
>>
>>10165665
Never had that happen to me, weird... Are you sure it's not contaminated?
>>
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>>10165683
It's just the whitening effect of a highly matte surface, and something about my airbrush, thinner and atmospheric conditions always made it go on exceptionally flat. Tone down the matte-ness with some varnish (water used in the photo to illustrate) and it looks proper red again.
>>
>>10165738
Anon, I'm pretty sure you mean glossy, not matte
>>
>>10165768
He's saying the matte part turns less saturated. Can you read?
>>
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>>10165768
No. Matte comes across as slightly lighter than gloss unless the latter is directly reflecting some light source at you. You can see it yourself in my photo, the bottom half of the spinner (as we see it in the photo) is as-sprayed matte, the upper half has been gloss coated.
>>
>>10165801
>airbrushbaby

Yeah, that explains the retardation
>>
>>10165811
would you faggots shut the fuck up about this stuff already
>>
>>10165811
seethe poorfag
>>
>>10165825
>stop talking about modelling in the modelling thread
>>
>>10165829
yes
>>
>>10165829
calling people names for using a tool that is unanimously agreed on in the community to produce the best results isn't 'talking about modeling,' It's being a contrarian faggot retard looking to stir shit up.
>>
>>10165850
t. bought a toy and is still coping

Consumerism does a number on some people...
>>
Should I actually buy pigments? Can I buy bulk colored dust somewhere and make it do the same thing? All this Ammo and AK shit is just shilled to hell, there’s gotta be a way.
>>
>>10165914
Just buy raw pigments from art stores or make your own, or buy pastels and grind them into fine dust for shitty pigment-like powder
>>
>>10165914
Don't use pigments, they survive very poorly the passing of time. In 10 years form now, when you'll grab your tank to dust it, along with the dust the pigments will fly away as well, just as easily. Enamels stick forever.
BUT
If you're determined to use pigments, please don't be a retard. AK and Ammo sell very realistic pigments with the precise shades you need, they are super cheap and they'll last you decades.
Also don't use white glue to fix them, it becomes yellow with time.
>>
>>10165987
>Don't use pigments, they survive very poorly the passing of time. In 10 years form now, when you'll grab your tank to dust it, along with the dust the pigments will fly away as well, just as easily.

My brother in Christ, have you never fucking heard of affixing pigments before?
>>
>Also don't use white glue to fix them, it becomes yellow with time.

Oh, he's just retarded and uses cheap glue
>>
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>>10164631
For sniffing - yes; for gluing, also. If you can get MEK - it will also work.
>>
>>10166045
Or just use acetone, maybe dilute it by half first though or itll6be very powerful
>>
did older Tamiya ship kits use dry transfer decals or something? wtf is this shit, the paper is thin and there is no carrier film
>>
>>10165988
which part of my post lead you to the conclusion that I was suggesting him not to use any pigment fixer instead of white glue?
>>
>>10166108
>you'll grab your tank to dust it, along with the dust the pigments will fly away as well, just as easily.

You're not fixing your pigments properly
>>
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>>10164969
>Not 1:1 scale
>>
>>10164969
is this a not-so-subtle reference to the helmetcam footage of the Ukrainian (foreign volunteer?) shooting a Russian soldier as he left an outhouse?
>>
>>10164969
>Highly detailed interior element
does it come with its own piece of poo?
>>
>>10166356
You've got to shit-bash your own
>>
>>10166195
Wasn't it actually just a shed he was hiding in, did look like an outhouse though
>>
>>10166090
If you mean the flags, they are literally just paper
>>
>>10165855
So this explains it. That's why "Tamiya + I'm a retard" works for you? Because you're a poorfag? Don't have running water for a wet palette? ~1$ for a sponge and sheet of baking paper out of your budget?
No wonder you're seething about airbrushes lmao.
>>
>>10165914
Don't be poor and just buy the enamels, they do exactly what they're meant for and in the long run you save money because you don't have to buy bulk pigments you will never use and fuck around for a week, ruining your model. One pot costs like 3-4€ which is literally nothing and lasts for ages. Buy a bottle of odorless thinner from the art store and you're set for like 3-5 years.
When starting out I tried to be cheap by looking for replacement things from china, art and hardware stores. Now there are some things you can get cheaper from there and/or in bulk, but specialty modelling and especially weathering products from AK are just that much more convenient and cheaper in the long run. They have formulated every shade of dirt and mud so you don't have to.
>>
>>10166526
I want you to reread what you just wrote...
>>
>>10166576
fuck ya mudda
>>
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>>10165943
What gets sold to modellers are the same thing. Its not like they invented anything.
>>
>>10166526
lmao keep seething schizo
>>
>>10166693
>What gets sold to modellers are the same thing

With lower quality materials for twice the price of art-grade supplies. "Modelling" anything is a marketing grift
>>
>>10166526
meds
>>
>>10166797
This where elderly railway modellers are useful contacts. Whatever the knew AK thing is they'll be like "Yeah, that was fashionable in the early 70s". And you think, yeah, of course the most autistic people in society have literally tried everything and kept notes, its what they do.
>>
Why should i pay more for branded modelling hobby-grade paint, when i can buy bunch of acrylics from craft store and thing them out?

Name me a one good reason
>>
On topic of pigments
I have a lot of fine bronze powder, which has a really nice gold-ish shiny color, but i have no idea how to turn it into the proper paint.
What should i mix it into? Would actylic clearcoat work with it?
>>
>>10166843
craft paints have fuck all pigment in them so you have to paint them on really thick to get any coverage so your model will look like >>10165279 when you're done
>>
>>10166843
Depending on the grade of paint you purchase, pigment density will be a problem. Also, you may have difficulties replicating specific tones depending on what pigments you purchase.
For me it is researching what pigments were used in historical paint mixes and trying to replicate them. So many different colours that are just different ratios of yellow ochre, red oxide, (tiny amounts of) French ultramarine and lamp black.
I do personally like well selected model paints for base coats, but then mixing with artists pigments and weathering with oils. Unless it is some specific shit like acrylic water effects (I presume they are just slow curing resins) I don't see much use for commercial weathering products.
>>
>>10166807
Train autists are built different. Fuckers could build a working mecha out of twigs and some shoe polish
>>
>>10166843
Pigmentation and additives

At least buy archival grade art acrylics like golden
>>
>>10166843
https://youtu.be/1-wColv801Q

Try it yourself and tell us results
>>
>>10166915
Also the medium used in cheap paint is often very brittle when cured and doesn't adhere well
>>
>>10166843
Go ahead and do it, you'll only waste a few dollars plus the time it takes to strip the paint off
>>
>>10166927
Haha look at this dumb fucking retard using a wet palette! Point and laugh! Buyers remorse, fucking rich fucker haha doesn't even know what retarder is lmao.
>>
>>10166978
Everything you said ironically is actually true. The guy wastes too much money on pointless shit but shilling branded shit is how he earns money
>>
>>10166913
too bad they barely ever finish their projects, tables are added constantly, everything is half-painted, the backlog is so big it starts bending timespace continuum and they started digging to make space in the basement for "the next great thing they have in mind" (they didn't tell the missus)
>>
>>10166937
On top of that, cheaper paints usually don't use the more expensive rarer pigments, instead replacing them with various mixes and substitutions and that results in weird interactions between paints when mixed
>>
>>10166982
>This is your brain on poverty
Maybe you should find a hobby better fitting your income? Have you tried alcoholism or drugs?
>>
>>10166982
Yeah, I bet the faggot owns an airbrush as well.
>>
>>10166893
Kimera paints are pretty good if you like mixing your own colours
>>
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The item that buck broke /smg/
>>
>>10166992
T. mutt who still mooches off his parents and never paid for food, rent, heating or other utilities
>>
>>10167020
>>10167021
In addition to being poor you're also dumb as fuck, makes sense.
>>
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>>10167020
Get on my powerlevel, nerd
>>
>>10167026
Take your meds, muttoid
>>
>>10167030
>you
>/juː/
>pronoun
> 1.
> used to refer to the person or people that the speaker is addressing.
> "you poorfag anons are real retards"

Still not a mutt, but luckily I have a job unlike some others in this thread.
>>
>>10167034
if you have to say that you have a job then you never had a job in your life

children aren't allowed on 4chan desu
>>
>>10166983
At least they own property and have a wife. 99% of the posters in this general never will
>>
>>10167021
sounds like a king to me
>>
>>10167047
parasites like him are why we need to bring back bullying in full force
>>
>>10166992
I know that you are just trying to get a rise out of people, but model making has been considered a cheap and cheerful hobby as long as injection kits have been a thing (and even before that into the beech/balsa kits of the 20s and 30s). There have always been some expensive kits and some expensive products, but the money market used to primarily be RC, not static models.
This trend for 300 dollar 1/35 shelf queens being a standard purchase instead of "once or twice in a lifetime" is recent (last 10-15 years really), and the rate of "must buy" product trends has very much accelerated since social media promotion of modelling supplies became standard. Whether this is a good or a bad thing is up to you, but the idea that model making, the hobby of post war austerity England and constant activity of Eastern and Southern Europe (to the extent that the commies imported FROG moulds and even made their own toolings), is a rich man's plaything is laughably out of touch with the history of the pursuit.
>>
>>10167060
Rampant consumerism has ruined a lot of affordable hobbies in the last 15-30 years. It's all about money and buy this and that... Sad to see :/
>>
>>10167060
cope
>>
>>10167060
I wasn't the one saying it's a "rich man's hobby". The retarded seethe-anon that said a fucking 10$ (or 2$ if you DIY) wet palette was "buying useless toys". And I guess his mommy and daddy drink or inject all of their salary, so he can't make the one time investment of 100-200$ for an airbrush so he instead has to seethe. Hell you can get a chinesium airbrush set for like 30-40$ that is totally fine for base coats.
>>
>>10167060
No one's stopping you from buying a $5 airfix kit and craft store acrylic paints
>>
>>10167027
Get a load of this poorfag.
>>
>>10167093
That's exactly what I do desu, some off brand paints are decent enough, at least when you're poor
>>
>>10167091
cope
>>
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>>10167043
>glad I'm in the 10%
>>
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>>10167098
Based
>>
>>10167060
excellent post, and like >>10167066 mentioned, aggressive consoomerism, paired with social media, only exacerbated the phenomenon

sometimes I wish I could be as blissful and innocent as twitterbro
>>
>>10167115
Every hobby store I've been to still has shelves of cheap shit

Sounds like a you problem
>>
great models guys, this thread has been a feast for the eyes
>>
>>10167124
where the fuck did I say there was a problem? I deliberately called it a phenomenon

besides, I'm not complaining, I'm the type of faggot who asks for a $12 plane kit for SS at work and then buys $50-worth of aftermarket PE and resin for it, so I can airbrush it with superior, imported, 1000-times-swirled, top-of-the-line Japanese paints

but you won't catch me scoffing at poorfags who are doing their best and having fun, I used to be one of them, too
>>
>>10167107
lmao, retarder retard can't even do percentages right. I guess this is what Tamiya paints do to your brain.
>>
The truth is in temperance.
Both mindsets are equally cancerous, IMO.
At least in my country we have two mindests of modelers:

1. BACK IN MUH DAY guys (usually boomers), who stick to "poorfag solutions" despite it is often time-consuming, bulky and inefficient. BECAUSE THIS IS THE WAY WE DID IT IN '89, BITCH. Like, making panel line was out of watercolor paint diluted by dishwasher detergent, adding powdered chalk in paint to make it matte, using child pastel instead of pigments. Because ANYONE who wants to pay extra money on brand special modelling paint, enamel weathering liquid or Ammo Mig pigments is, in their opinion, a fucking consumerist zoomer noob who wastes money on useless shit in a futile attempt to substitute lack of skill with "special products"

2. I.... MUST.... CONSOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM... guys. Usually a millenial or a "new generation" modeler. Will buy any new products from AK Interactive, AMMO Mig or Adam Wilder because it is AMMO MIG, MAN! How can you even dare to show me your model if it is painted by home depot paints and not muh precious AMMO MIG acrylics! For them, anyone who refuses to spend money on extra special shit because you can get almost the same quality for half of the price is a poorfag degenerate who has no place in this hobby.
Yes, this includes bulling at exhibitions.

These guys are literally brainwashed by AMMO MIG marketing department.
>>
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>>10167125
first time?
>>
>he doesn't know the 10% meme
fucking zoomers, man
>>
NEW

>>10133446
>>10133446
>>10133446
>>
>>10167136
Boomers lived off their dog shit Humbrol enamels
>>
>>10167136
Yes.
That is why you don't need primer.
>>
>>10167184
You need primer only for water acrylics or when model plastic is 2+ colours or you are using PE or resin or have shitton of puttywork.

Mostly to "even the tone" of the underlying surface, otherwise it will be noticeable through base layer. Especially when base colour has shitty coverage (yellow, orange, WHITE) and you can't just "spray it thicker".

You don't really need primer for lacquers or alcohol-based acrylics.
>>
>>10166852
That should work somewhat at least. Paint is basically pigments, binder and solvent.Your bronze powder can be a pigment, acrylic varnish is binder and solvent. Might not make for a very good paint as heck knows if your powder is a decent grain size and the varnish may take some of the shine out of the pure powder, but it seems easy enough for you to test.
>>
>>10167213
Gunze Sangyo primer is perfect
AMMO Mig one shot is shit.
>>
>>10167184
Primer is straight up just a grift
>>
>>10167143
Kill yourself faggot. No self respecting person would ever touch a zugger thread so fuck off back to your containment board.

And sniff some primer, maybe you'll mutate some white matter
>>
>>10167143
Nice thread
For someone who lost Kherson lmao lmao
>>
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>>10167270
>>
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How are you even supposed to get rid of the seam line with all those grooves on the barrel?
>>
>>10167364
Carve with a knife, use the edge of a half-round file, hide it away as best you can...
>>
>>10167270
report and ignore. don't give them (you)'s
>>
>>10167136
Yes I agree. And retardered anon is the 1st version of that. As far as I can tell, nobody in this thread has said you MUST CONSOOM.
Just that all the AK/Ammo/whatever products are there and often times cheaper in the long run than buying pigments, mixing them with dirt from your flower pot and formulating your own lacquer fixer. And that being a retard and going full luddite on anything more advanced than a stick with hair on it is fucking dumb. If you're willing to pay up, you can save time and can take some shortcuts, if not you can do a lot of this stuff yourself, yes.
All that being said there are certain hobby/modelling tools and materials that are straight up rip-offs. Like plumbing wire being sold as scale model barbed wire at 5-10x the price.

>>10167143
10 rubles have been deposited to your commissary account, comrade.
>>
>>10167383
report for what? It doesn't violate any rule and it was created first. Also it's completely on-topic.
>them
Ahh I see, a redditor
>>
>>10167391
Exactly the point.
You must know what you are buying and what for.

Yes, you don't need to buy pre-made washes. You can always make them yourself by mixing art shop oil paint with white spirit. But sometimes it is just... easier? Open the bottle and start applying. Worth the money? For some, yes, for others - not so much. Is this a reason to call everyone who buys and not makes by himself a CONSOOMER SLAVE? Totally not.

>straight up rip-offs
My experience:
Most of the "branded" tools like knives or cutter pliers or tweezers. Some are straight the same Chinese tools but with huge TAMIYA or AK INTERACTIVE logo and instant x5 price. Or the infamous Tamiya Scriber (which is basically a box cutter, too big to inscribe panel lines on anything smaller than... idunno, 1/16? 1/8?)

Wire and plastic sheets/brass sheet, yes.
>>
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>>10167391
But anon , don't you want to buy AK-Interactive ™ Dried Sea Ball (2 items)?
That will be only €4.38 goy :)
>>
That fag has been desperately necroing his little thread for more than a week now

It's so fucking funny holy fuck
>>
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>>10167412
buy twigs
only £7.71
>>
>>10167412
But it says it's out of stock (I already bought all of their available stock, just in case I need it in the future y'know)
>>
>>10167412

why do corpos stell shit that you can get for free in your backyard

literally just touch grass
>>
>>10167414
He's literally a rusnigger
He also made the same thread on 2ch, russian imageboard, and got kicked out of there by mods, which is really fucking funny
Also, notice how Z thread was made on 11th of november, the same day russian army ran away from kherson.
Out of all places to cope, he chose /toy/ board for discussions about toys.
This guy is really desperate. Do not report his thread please, his miserability brings joy to me.
>>
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>crack open the Tamiya Musashi kit
>tooling made in 1998
>only ships I've made were 1/700 Tamiya kits from the early 70s
>the hull pieces fit together like a glove
It's been nearly 2 years and I am finally experiencing Tamiya quality and I'm about to bust a nut
>>
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>>10167430
>He also made the same thread on 2ch, russian imageboard, and got kicked out of there by mods

topkek whoever is writing this season should get a raise
>>
>>10167435
Welcome to the higher plane of modelling existence

While brits were shitting out slop, nips were 60 years ahead just fucking mogging them
>>
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>>10167430
holy shit, actual /toy/ deep lore
what a time to be alive and not a rusnigger
>>
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>>10167440
I'll be fair to Bongs and say modern Airfix is quite nice. I only made their newer 1/48 Spit Mk Ia a year and a half ago but very much enjoyed the experience.
but yeah it's incredible that there are lots of Tamiya kits from the 70s that are still tolerable, some of the ship kits are honestly not great but there are lots of tank and plane kits which are still reboxed to this day, maybe with a sprue changed out, and they still build up quite nicely
kind of makes me regret buying their 2011 Yorktown rebox though, that tooling is from the 70s also. it's in storage right now so I can't check it. I hope the only old piece they kept was the hull...
>>
>>10167422
Unironically because some people live in concrete jungles where they either can't or don't know where to go for all this shit. Also some of this shit like sea foam/sea balls don't grow in every backyard. Sure you could grow it yourself, probably, but looking at my attempts at herb gardens either I'm retarded as a gardener or a climate where the temperature ranges from 30 degrees to minus 30 degrees C doesn't fit well with feeble plant life.
I've sifted buckets full of sand into jars of different coarseness and I'm probably set for life in that regard, but I've also paid some Polaks a few € to have a jar of uniform basalt gravel. Though the polish prices were a bit more realistic (like 1-2€) than 10€ for a bundle of sticks or 5€ for 2 miniature hairy balls.
>>
>>10167452
>hairy balls
heh gay
>>
>>10167450
New bong shit is nice indeed but holy fuck are the old western kits just trash

Takes me back to the times when acrylic paint was about as good as painting with your own blood and piss. We've gone so far in hobby tech!
>>
>>10167452
one trip to the forest and you can be set for years, or life
>or face criminal charges for interfering with woodland scenery, depending on the shittyness of your local govt
>>
>>10167458
and I forgot link
https://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2014/04/tutorial-how-to-find-good-roots.html
>>
>>10167458
>he doesn't live in eu

ngmi
I can legally go chop trees and camp on all governmentand unowned land
>>
Who let rutrash out of their pig pen
>>
>>10167136
>For them, anyone who refuses to spend money on extra special shit because you can get almost the same quality for half of the price is a poorfag degenerate who has no place in this hobby.
Fucking this.
All this Tamiya shilling is really grinding my gears. Drooling retards insisting on using "muh superior japanese products" because they're too stupid to learn how to make a wet pallette with materials they already have at home. They spend so much extra money and waste time fiddling with their 50 tools with a brand logo on them and still get subpar results instead of just doing it like a normal person.
>buh buh it wowks fow meee...
Smearing shit on your model can also "work for you" but your model is still covered in shit.

Zoomers should be gatekept from this hobby.
>>
>>10167480
>wet pallette
Why would I a toy when I can just use good paint

Just use some retarder, retard. That is all you have to do. Stop coping.
>>
>>10167480
>Zoomers should be gatekept from this hobby.

nigger you type like a zoomer. piss off nobody is buying your corpoplipplop painty wetner 40000™
>>
What if rus-shiller and wet-pallette-retard is actually the same person?
>>
>>10167483
Why would I use retarded when I can just use my imagination to imagine the colours on the model?

Just use your creativity, retard. That's all you have to do. Stop coping.
>>
>>10167094
I now want to buy a 50 gallon drum of paint retarder just for a meme

Imagine being stupid enough to buy into the wet palette pyramid scheme instead of just buying quality paint
>>
>>10167470
>>10167479
>moooom i'm winning the war by painting miniatures of dead hohols
>>
>>10167492
>Moshi moshi, Tamiya desu
>Nani? Painto retaada? 50 garon?
>Hai! Arigato goizamasu!
>>
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>>10167489
The lore deepens
>>
Actual New Thread:
>>10167528
>>10167528
>>10167528
>>
i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist i hate the antichrist
>>
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>>10167489
It looks more like the rusnigger and tamiya retard are the same one.
>>
>>10167712
Oh wow, no wonder you're seething about the z-retard so much. Very embarrassing.
>>
>>10156738
Cope ZOG shill
>>
>>10167712
big nose funded supremacists AZOGs are so embarrassing
>>
>>10167461
I live in the EU and our forests are OUR, I can camp, forage, even dump a truckload of garbage there (illegally)!
I mentioned it for the sake of oblivious britbongs
>>
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>>10167480
>>For them
>>FOR
>>THEM
>proceeds to post like on of (((THEM)))
oy vey, reading comprehension in zoomers is so fucking low



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