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French Supremacy, Tiger Models please come back...edition

Previous thread: >>10146601

This thread is for the discussion of scale plastic (and resin, PE, wood, etc) models kit
-Post photos of your builds in progress and your finished builds
-Have your builds critiqued or critique others
-Discuss tips and techniques
-Ask for advice or give advice to others

Always remember:
>No manufacturer is purely perfect or awful. ALWAYS research your kits before buying.

Some helpful guides to get started:

Plus there are tons of people on YouTube with pretty good videos on techniques etc.

Some sites to purchase models, extras, and supplies:
https://www.dersockelshop.de/ (GER)
https://www.scalehobbyist.com/index.php (US)
https://www.alfahobby.se/ (SWE)
http://spruebrothers.com/ (US)
https://freetimehobbies.com/ (US)
http://www.hobbyeasy.com/ (HK)
http://www.luckymodel.com/ (HK)
http://www.hlj.com/ (JP)
https://www.modellbau-koenig.de/en (GER)
http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/m/ (JP)
https://www.hannants.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.jadarhobby.pl/index.php?language=en (PL)
https://www.bnamodelworld.com/ (AUS)
http://volksusastore.com/webstores/scale/ (US) (Carry Mr. Color and GaiaNotes paint)
https://www.emodels.co.uk/ (UK)
https://www.super-hobby.com (EU/UK/RU/US)
https://plastmodel.pl/ (PL/EU)
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based and palestinapilled.
What was the most ridiculous model kit you've ever built?
A Russian tank, just imagining that someone would call blatant scam a tank with a straight face is ridiculous
Which tank and which manufacturer? Some older tanks can be a real pain to put together, yours may have been an old kit.
Anon, is this yours?
It looks pretty horribad desu. The explosion is ok I guess.
Happy Thanksgiving smg

Any good black friday deals spotted?
wording this post. i want to consoooooom.
there isnt much on amazon, mostly ICM.

out of the very few sites i checked out these ones had some decent sale items:
(seems to have a sale on their pe sets)
Hello friends,
I am terrible at building models. Have fucked up every one I've ever touched. Is there hope for me or will I always be retarded?
What airbrush kit would you recommend? I've tried hand painting entire models with acrylics and oils and I always, always manage to make it look like a toddler shit all over it.
Are Tamiya kits still good? I want to buy the BMP2 IFV.
Tamiya kits are super easy to assemble and the detail is pretty good
buy the old ass tamiya panzer II kit for $13ish to practice and fuck up on before you build something you like.
buy a small can of spraypaint to paint your models until you get an airbrush.
HLJ black friday sale is up but their website is eating shit right now.
Like everyone else said Tamiya is literally retard proof. Also just get Tamiya rattlecans to start out, if you struggle with building a basic model you're gonna get frustrated with an airbrush pretty quick, not to mention the big expense. Just get model building down first and go from there. Practice using the rattlecan on a random piece of plastic first (or you can practice by spraying the underside of the hull first) so you don't spray too much. Remember = multiple light passes > Spraying one huge glob of paint in one go to get full coverage
Not sure if it's intentional but HLJ is currently showing me a lot of the sale items only having discounts of 0.50-$1
Thank you very much for the info.
I can usually build the models ok it's the painting I always fuck up.
Only thing I really struggle with the models on is figuring out which glue to use. I don't have a lot of experience and my time between each build was probably a year so I bought new or different glue each time and they all seemed to work very differently. Some melted the shit out of the kits, others didn't hold well at all. Any recommendations on that end?
best case scenario you'd have four glues;
>extra thin
>extra thin (quick setting)
>CA glue (gel)
>CA glue (liquid)
if you're strapped for money just get one of the extra thins, and some gel CA glue.
>figuring out which glue to use
CA glue is great for attaching small pieces to each other or to larger pieces: like antennae, AA guns, landing gear, and so forth -- particularly stuff that won't just sit there and let you glue it in place. for landing gear, you'd have to hold it in place for a while as the extra thin glue dries; very annoying. with CA glue, it should grab and start drying almost immediately.
extra thin is better for attaching larger pieces to each other, especially along longer seam lines.
of course, there is no general rule for using the various types of glue. a lot of it just comes with experience.
Thank you for the help. I appreciate it greatly.
Currently there are no good BMP-2 kits available
Your options are ancient dragon trash (zvezda), ill fitting trumpeter mediocrity or some mystery meat garage resin kit
Life-scale or fuck off

Give me a Marichka sex bot
what about hobby cement, would that be good too?
>wet palette
this is why your paint isn't that thick
serviceable but very, very basic, even for brush painters
looks frosty from either bad priming or excessive pigments from unthinned paint
in terms of annoying shit, far a full interior 1/35 7TP from IBG
in terms of challenge, 1/72 FW190 with full engine and every aftermarket PE upgrade; paint scheme included some very tricky masking of the front engine cowl
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1/48 Scale strapped to an Mi-8 when?
hobby cement are extra thin and extra thin quick setting on his list
I've found use for slow setting thick cement, i.e. revell contacta, for when I need to put a finnicky bit in place, align it and then I can add the tiniest drop of extra thin to quickly set it in place (contacta seems to dry for 15mins or longer)
Love how the resident butthurt vatnik can never let it be, and always takes the bait.
how tightly do you have to press the ends together, and for how long?
OK, let me elaborate

mr hobby cement SP extra thin
>put the bits together
>dab with a slightly wet brush
>press gently
>if too much glue had been transferred and I squeeze hard, little pearls of melted plastic will squeeze out from the gap
>dries and hardens within seconds

revell contacta
>put a drop on the area to glue
>put the bits together
>press gently, bit's sliding
>tried pressing harder once, bit slid off the glue area, plastic there didn't go all gooey like with mr cement
>once left a bit for a minute or two, it still wasn't glued down

I suspect revell adds way more retarder; like I mentioned, I don't trust revell on its own, I use it for aligning fiddly bits that I can't easily hold together for mr cement
i guess tamiya cement would be faster then.

and i was asking if you ever had to clamp the pieces together.
>and i was asking if you ever had to clamp the pieces together.
with mr cement, never for neither planes nor tanks
never tried with contacta
runignogs still haven't recovered form their previous embarrassment and now they've lost last shreds of relevance on the world stage so it makes sense that they'd be angry

I wonder what zvezda's profits look like now
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>I wonder what zvezda's profits look like now
Probably really good, people are building lots of captureshit.
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New Zvezda models for the next year:
1/35 STZ-5 Katyusha
1/35 BMP-3
1/35 T-62 mod 1972
1/35 Stug 4
1/35 Su-76

More new models will be released soon.
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>1/35 BMP-3
>1/35 T-62 mod 1972
Oh great, they're doing Ukraine war stuff.
fuck you, retard
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I hope the BMP-3 doesn't get canned due to the current circumstances, their T-62 and T-70 were great
>this is the best thing that russian psyops can produce
Vanjka, vanjka never changes.
Nah, the T-62 is NOT the Ukrainian version, it is still an earlier one.

They promise the war version in the future though.
>Probably really good, people are building lots of captureshit.
everyone in my circles stopped buying shit produced by russian comoanies
Oh yes, this will TEACH THEM A LESSON, THEY WILL NEVER RECOVER from the fact that 3.5 butthurt Europeans refused to buy Russian

Relax, Zvezda is doing great as well as other Russian model manufacturers.
By that time the mod. 1972 will be the war version.
I'm looking to get back in the hobby after a long break. But unsure what scale to start buying plane kits in. Any thoughts, pros and cons of 1:72 vs bigger like 1:48 and 1:32?
On a side note, my dad just dropped of two boxes of models i built 20years ago, i'm scared they will look like twitterbro and haven't looked at them yet.
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1/72 is better if you plan to build a lot, not good if you have shaky hands or just don't like small parts in general. 1/48 is somewhat easier to work with because of the large scale but its more expensive, especially if you want aftermarket shit, and of course the biggest downside is they take up a lot of room depending on what you want to build.

Honestly I'd go with 1/48 if you want WW2 shit or below, for anything else 1/72 is better since most jets are massive.

I'm gonna order this bad boy wish me luck smg.
hobby cement ("plastic cement") are extra thin; or rather, extra thin is a type of hobby cement. there are thicker plastic/hobby cements, but I rarely, if ever, use them. extra thin helps you do things that CA (and thicker hobby cements) can't.
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>manage to score the last Pavla models F-89 Scorpion resin intakes on Earth on some obscure as fuck Italian website
All I need now is to find the unobtanium cockpit set
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mentally ill dragon initial tigerbro here, i ve put in countless hours since my last update and theres not much progress. just sliding paint around on the surface with thinner and undoing the chipping and things i've already done countless times as usual. still its really close to done. this pic is already waaay out of date. hope vallejo primer is gentle enough to not disintegrate the rubber magic tracks
i dropped the hull on the floor but have since repaired all that damage. i am getting really close to finishing. im hoping to get it done before 2023
>i ve put in countless hours since my last update and theres not much progress. just sliding paint around on the surface with thinner and undoing the chipping and things i've already done countless times as usual.
I know your type. you people can never finish anything, always fucking around and messing with it and changing it.
it looks really good, just commit to it and finish it. don't keep playing with your food, anon.
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imma upload all the pics on some site and link the gallery after it will be nuts you'll just see it getting better and worse. this pic is from 1 month prior to that one
Let's see your models, anon.
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>my circles
For what it's worth, those scratches are lovely.
>He based his model buying on politics
Bro... its plastic.
more Zvezda and Combrig kits for me, lmao
Does there exist 1/35 figures of dudes with MANPADS or am I going to have to learn to sculpt
Where do i go to get pictures specific systems in use in Ukraine? I can’t just Google them since 99% of results are re-used pre-war pics
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now you
>hope vallejo primer is gentle enough to not disintegrate the rubber magic tracks
it should be fine

this is some extreme weathering, something I just don't have patience for
New Zvezda airplanes coming in hot.

i use LostArmour / Oryx (they list mostly losses though)
Telegram war channels (tricky to find)
Brand NEW 1/144 Tu-95 Bear.
That's a breakthrough!
Yet another Yak-9 in 1/48
War Thunder fans must be happy, I can barely tell them apart.
3d printed, held together with pure willpower, milliput and CA glue. It was when I was starting out with 3dp, so the resin was kind of crap and most of the joints just cracked and broke. It was meant to be articulated.
>(((Black Friday)))
>only T-80 variants shops have on sale are the ones that didn't show up in Ukraine
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When the apocalypse has an apocalypse, it may require towing
Fortunately it now has a tow cable
Noise, Tu-95MS, right?
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I think I may finally be getting the hang of using Tamiya panel liner. I don't think I was waiting long enough for it to dry, and was worried the brushes/Q-tips would take away all of the wash if they were anything more than very slightly damp.
feels good to have learnt something new, friends
What's the best way to make custom decals? i have tried inkjet waterslide sheets but even the white backed ones arent really amazing.
welcome to a better thread
I have been told that if you want custom waterslides, is to hit up a local nail art store on etsy, see if they take custom requests. They will have high quality printers that can do white ink. nail decals arent much diffirent than the ones on models
also, check aliexpress carefully first, they might already have what you want
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should I pull the trigger boys?
To all who replied in the previous thread about weathering the spitfire, thanks - a muted wash looks like it's the way to go.

I also have another question about a tank kit, a 1/48 Panzer Wirbelwind that I'm doing a 1944 Winter paintjob on (or whatever it is on the box). The instructions say that the color to paint all the treads should be 'metallic Gray' but is there any reason it couldn't just be flat black?
Body parts are put on loose, no weathering added yet, but its coming together. The plow was a bit of tricky business. It's designed in a way to be movable but I don't see how unless you add your own chain. It comes with rubber tubing in the box but to way to adjust it once glued. Rigged the chain to be re-connected at different lengths so I can pose the plow at different angles and also height.
Black looks unrealistic on models, a dark gray/brown is generally better for tracks, with maybe some drybrushing with a metallic paint.
But if you are going to be covering the tracks with lots of weathering the color doesn't really matter.
you made sure the grill/headlight area is actually apart of the design and not mold lines right? because it looks like mold lines
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Initially thought the same thing but they're too deep to be mold lines; i'm pretty sure that's just the design. Once the grill/lamps are in, its panel lines I'm pretty sure is the aesthetic.
anon...... its clearly mold lines........ rookie mistake
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2 of them are stylistic, but yes, there are definitely lines I should have removed
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cant decide how to paint mine... you cant go wrong with classic italian red, but that candy blue is something else, id also have to wait for the blue ones decal set
I have Tamiya Neutral Gray, would that work?

I guess the better question is what the hell are tank treads actually made of. Maybe due to a lack of actually looking into it all my life, I always assumed they were rubber all the way back to the ancient Mk. Is.
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The more i learn about hobby, the more i notice how much in common modelling and manicure have
I would mix some black into that, it looks a bit light in pictures. You could also apply a dark wash over it but it would look even better if you do both.
Tank tracks in reality are mostly metal, in particular on the wirbelwind you are building they are metal.
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>The instructions say that the color to paint all the treads should be 'metallic Gray' but is there any reason it couldn't just be flat black?
They would have been bare metal in reality (with varying degrees of surface oxidation). Painted tracks are a static museum display thing to prevent rust, it won't last long if go driving. All rubber tracks are a thing that exists, but I'm pretty sure not for that vehicle.
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You know that tanks are for girls. right?
I mean you can convert manicuring tools into modelling tools if you really want.
I used to hate having my nails catch on things and feel rough for a few days after cutting them but now I have easy access to what is essentially a nail file and no longer have that problem
>tanks are for girls
I always knew there must be a reason I like wheeled vehicles more than tanks
is the fire included?
i can scratchbuild that
>not filing your nails on a rotary tool sand disc (Dremel, Proxxon, etc)
>not cutting your nails on a milling cutter
The only one I can think of is the Italeri/Dragon VDV Strela dude.
Now that Scalemates has shut down which website will take its place?
That could be the Revell kit which had been reboxed by Zvezda a while ago.
You okay buddy?
Have you taken your meds?
They explicitly told this will not be a rebox, but a brand new tooling model.
(They reboxed Ka-27, Mig-23, Ju-88G6 and BMP-1 with M3 Scout)

Up and running for me. Check your browser.
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about an hour to mask, paint and clean airbrush for these patches of green. likely 10 more hours needed... just for the green
lookin' good though
just use a damn paintbrush, at least for the contour of the shapes, the difference in quality will be insignificant
Free hand it
no, not for the green. been down that road before and it's not any better. maybe for the black as that will likely cover in 1 or 2 coats
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>when your fokker EV comes with a PE black sun
There is no hope under the black sun, anon.
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Well, this apparently just wasn't allowed to work out. Canopy and fuselage are somewhat banana'd compared to each other, so an amount of force is required to get a decent fit. Meaning all those canopy safe acrylic/PVA/whatever glues are right out. Second, the black bit with the main sight in front/ahead of the front instrument panel sits a bit higher than it should, so it gets squeezed against the wind-shield. Add a drop of extra thin and schlorp, half the wind shield's been coated on the inside.
Well then, some sanding, polishing and varnishing later and the canopy ain't good as new but at least it ain't quite so bad any more. So try again, now with regular cement. A teeny tiny amount along the edge and... it gets squeezed up onto the lower wind shield again. So fuck it, this is clearly how it's meant to be by the powers that be.
In other news the main pitot tube is one long, thin rod of plastic (I'm sure you're all very surprised by that), to which twelve little PE fins are to be glued. If someone think gluing a PE thin just butt-on to the side of a thin plastic rod seems like a problem, don't worry, these PE bits have little tabs on them to fit into little holes. Little quarter millimetre holes that you're to drill yourself into the side of the very thin plastic rod. So I guess I'll just get the landing gear bits ready as well and then pause this thing while whoever I end up buying it from ships me Maser Models brass-and-resin version instead, where all the fins come cast as one with a pair of hollow resin tubes that you simply slide onto the main brass rod.
>these PE bits have little tabs on them to fit into little holes. Little quarter millimetre holes that you're to drill yourself into the side of the very thin plastic rod.
welcome to hell
Gaiz, I normally don't do WW2 shit, so help me out:

How should I prime/base a 1:72 standard grey/green Spitfire?
>gray primer plus panel pre-shading
>black basing and camo marbling
>some other method
I primed my FW190 in gray and pre-shaded with black (kinda regretted not doing it in a contrast colour, would get a stronger effect)
do whatever you're comfortable with, I guess
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I don't think you should marble it personally, just feels wrong. I think the panels are too big relative to the size of the aircraft so I'd go with the first option.
>>gray primer plus panel pre-shading
>>black basing and camo marbling
I'd do the latter, leaning into a combined variant by not putting as much marbling over the panel lines, but they all work.
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GAZ-67B Chapaev / Gazik ; 1/35 ; Tamiya
i have some custom art to print, so im hoping one of them will have what i need
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Sanded the marks down and resurfaced the affected area, but didn't want to strip the whole piece. It looks "ok"
the right side looks actually really nice but the left doesn't want to color match. any suggestions? Maybe I should try to just make it 'rusty'? but it would be kinda odd looking if I did that
1st model in about 20 years so I'm not too sure how to approach it
Any car modelers here know if they made a nice Lada model? If in 1/35 even better.
You'd be hard-pressed to find any 210X kits
Looks like the only option is a garage resin company operating from Russia

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