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>Want to enjoy my new found love for miniature painting by finishing up assembling the units that are not built yet and priming and paining up my decent sized Necron army.
>Unable to find all but my Monolith and a box of bikes.

>try to paint faces for the first time
>decide to burn all the faces and replace them with helmets
sasuga

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I got a Massive Darkness 2 box on the cheap and have been painting the mobs these past two weeks, trying to get better at painting. Here's what I've done by now.

>>88964404
I keep 3 heads on pins on my desk and just strip them like once a week. If I feel like painting but not surely what I pick them up and practice, or will just do a few coats with whatever I have on my palette during a project as a breather. Lord knows I need all the practice on faces I can manage.

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So, I'm doing this model, but trying to go for a stone basalt black, with gold for the recesses.

Is there a quick and dirty way to get gold into all these carved recesses without disturbing the rest of the paint? I'm really not looking forward to trying to paint every single one.

What's anon's preferred product for dissolving gunked up superglue on plastic? Something that's not freezing or iso.

>>88964907
Rule of thumb is to work from inside out for a reason anon, have fun fiddling with your tiniest brush and still needing to do cleanup after no matter how careful you are.

>>88965031
I’ve used nail polish remover (acetone based) before. It’ll wreck the plastic but I’ll get a qtip and add just a little bit on it to rub off a bunch of glue around a joint or something. And then rinse it off after if soap and water

>>88961059
Probably won't do a whole lot more with the skin at this point, but there are some touch-ups I need to do. Mostly need to work on the metals, leather straps, and cloth/topknot at this point.

>>88965227
It's more the point that I'm airbrushing most of the model, so I can't paint the inside and then airbrush out.

>>88965553
I mean you could spray it gold then liquid mask and spray the rest but that's nearly the same effort as recess painting

I want to weather and shade my HH marines to depict them fighting in the void of space. What kind of stuff should I look into for that? Ive already decided glow effects on the eyes would work well

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Finished off my first batch of second hand Solar Auxillia. 15 to go.

First time doing paint stripping and green stuff worlds paint stripper worked well on resin.

Matching 2 year old paint schemes you never wrote down is a pain.

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>>88966363
space has very little to 'weather' things.
The biggest effect you could do would be bleaching, colour washing out of painted things due to solar radiation. (see the american flags on the moon nowadays).

Micrometeors could have put splash craters on armour, but that wouldnt look much different than how most people do bolter shots.

You could model on some rcs thrusters on their powerpacks and have some soot marks on the pauldrons and back on the calves (pic related).

What is the eye glow meant to be?

>>88966553
just to make them look eerie, its mostly unrelated desu its not like there would be a mist medium for that to occur in. Just bare metal and paint.

Good recomendations, they are also SW so I think ill do some icy effects as well. I do want those thrusters on them I have some thallax and I really liked their posable thrusters. Ill look for some.

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Mocking up this simple version wasn't actually all that hard. Would have been better, if i had printed some parts, instead of scratch building them.

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>>88966978
And a webm where you can actually see what is going on.

>>88966978
>>88966990
Thinky tonk is cute. Very nice.

>>88964907
you could try mixing a gold metallic oil paint with some mineral spirits, make a gold wash, apply to recesses with a thin synthetic brush. kind of like a gold tamiya panel liner. would be a neat experiment.

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>>88966978
Man! So many lovely things showing up to be our OP. Definitely saving this one, anon!

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Oh Christ, I found my Necrons and there are a lot more than I remember owning. I was not ready for this addition to my backlog.

>>88967721
I hear you. I'm in the middle of a move, and I found stuff I'd completely forgotten about. Apparently I have a small French Foreign Legion force, all bare metal. I doubt I'll ever get around to painting something like that.

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>>88967763
Oh man, that sounds cool at least. I figure I owe it to myself to paint these plastic lads up, as to try and convince and/or coerce my best friend and/or brother into playing Grimdark Future or something with them.I've never owned a fully painted 28mm army, so it's an undertaking I'm both hesitant about and excited for. Thankfully I have a scheme picked out, with glue and paints ready on standby.

>>88965301
Anon my models have details gunked up with superglue... Im not really needing to pull pieces apart, I need to dissolve this shit

I think I'll just get the $15 bottle of stuff and not try to be a cheapass about it

>>88967721
I recently bought a whole boardgame set with 50+ minis and as I went to put it in the stash I saw that I already had one set in there. Just forgot about it. For some reason I just never got out of the mindset of looking for a good deal on the box.

>>88967801
Ayy, nice. Wish I had that trouble. For me it's more wait for a good deal and try to use what little free cash I end up with on it. A fair chunk of my 'Crons were gifts, including a Monolith so I managed to save money in that regard. Not sure if I will be able to pull off brush priming the Monolith, now that I think about it.

>>88967868
I'm not a millionaire, I'm just scatterbrained. Like I said, I waited for a good deal as well, but since I liked the models enough to buy them twice some years apart...could be worse I guess.

>>88967801
That's happened to me when collecting old codices and rulebooks over the years. I also get tunnel vision when I find a good deal, and sometimes I've ended up with multiple copies of books.
I think I have two sets of Last Chancers for the same reason, now that I think about it.

>>88964495
I like the flame guys, they look like the angels in Hellboy. The goats have a lot of character too.

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>>88968136
Fair enough. I'm a bit of one as well it seems, because I can not find my assembled Warriors and Scarabs. Which means yet more cleaning and moving. Fuck.

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Does anyone know a good place to get a lot of these shoulder shield things? I'm planning an army which calls for everyone to get one.

3rd party options are fine too.

>>88968387
Ebay Boyz sellers. Try terminator emblem? Heraldry. Short of that, get some blue stuff/oyamaru and make molds of them and copy with greenstuff.

>>88968405
Bitz. Not Boyz. I'm fuckin tired today.

>>88968387
They're called tilt shields, might help to search for them by name. I'd either bluestuff recast them or just cut your own out of some thick plasticard, and cut the rivets/bolts for them off a thin styrene rod.

>>88968405
Danke.

>>88968387
get a few and recast the rest yourself, use blue stuff if you dont want to invest into resin stuff

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>>88968405
>Ebay Boyz
lol
Their genetic specialty is commerce?

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Just wanted to share froges

>>88968447
They're like mek Boyz, but instead of hoarding all the parts for themselves they're obsessed with selling them for a meager profit

>>88968387
there's a bunch of 3d printed ones on etsy

>>88968516
cute frogs

>>88968387
You can have all the ones from my assault terminators kits. I hate how they look and am sick to death of painting blood drops

>>88968528
How would I search for that? "Space marine shoulder shield"?

How's your Maratime work going Anons, you are working on May's project right?

>>88968516
I'm glad you did

>>88968516
if i looking for frog
him name is hopkin green frog

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>>88968642
>you are working on May's project right?
Nah, I painted something vaugely related in april though.

>>88966990
That turret spin at 0:29 gave me a giggle

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>>88968642
Boats.

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>>88968862
God I love Boats

>>88968635
Yea and add “terminator”

>>88969140
Missing
>Giant monster terrorizes college students

>>88969258
You sold me on that one.

>>88968516
It is Wednesday my dudes

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>>88968635
>>88969153
>eBay search for "besagew" returns only one listing for WH40K bitz.
OK, ladz, look like I lose this round.

>>88968635
"space marine tilting shield" or something similar

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>>88969258
Those were college students?!?

>>88969774
nah, that's clearly an example of Fight Fight Fight

>>88966990
What is the red thing in the back? Looks sick nasty

Is magnetizing arms worth it? I'm fairly new and got some voidscarred corsairs for Kill Team. I found out I can't have a legal KT if I build all the specialists, so I looked into magnetizing them.
I don't plan on playing in tournaments or anything, just with my friends. I don't think they will really care if I run a model as something else or doesn't match with WYSIWYG. Maybe I'll play at a store every now and then, but I don't plan on doing it regularly. So the real reasons I would do it would be for my own satisfaction, making use of the whole kit and having WYSIWYG for myself. If it's actually not that hard to do, I don't see why not to do it. Does it add a lot of extra difficulty and time to building your models? Do you find it rewarding?

>>88970427
I never magnetize anything smaller than a dreadnought. I nearly exclusively play garagehammer so outside of cool factor or ease of transport I have no reason to do it.

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>>88970427
there are 11 separate build profiles
the box come with 10.
why not try and find a spare model and build him up as a basic warrior?

>>88970427
I'm not sure on the size for knife ears, but I magnetize my marines. They have nice flat spots so the drill goes in smoothly, and 2-3 mm magnets fit nicely. I usually only magnetize characters with several weapon options, like my captains or my kt int sarge

>>88970492
>>88970427
NVM I see that the gunners/heavy gunner and warrior have wargear options. That would make 14 build profiles not including multiples of the warrior.
I'd just build what people typically play unless you like the flavour of a particular weapon.

>>88968516
They're adorable.

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So how does freezing models to break superglue actually work? I just did it and the piece snapped when I tried to move it. It's an easy fix so it's not that bad, but I'd rather not break every joint like that.

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So I'd like to paint my Eldar army in this wraithbone style but in Iyanden colors, but I'm a complete beginner to painting. Also, the "head" wouldn't have that glossy look to it but rather just be a completely covered and opaque iyanden blue like the official GW scheme but with the wraithbone effect, and the limbs would be yellow like most of the model. Is it reasonable to expect a noob to be able to replicate this after a few tries on some test models or would it more likely take months if not years to do so?

https://golden-demon.com/2017/05/03/large-model-bronze-warhammer-40000-open-day-2016/

>>88970594
i guess CA has slight water trapped inside and freezing it makes it expand and causes tiny cracks in it..

Plastic also becomes brittle when frozen, so you should wait for it to warm up awhile before you start gorilla handling stuff

>>88970454
>>88970492
>>88970495
>>88970529
Thanks for the advice, anons. I think I'll go ahead and build them how I plan on usually equipping them. I'm still curious about magnetizing though so maybe I'll find some models to practice on down the line.

Are there any good white/light grey paints out there that can actually be used without inevitably ending up clumpy or a glaze?

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>>88970854
For the heavy gunner, you'd only need to magnetise the weapon. Try and find some 1mm dia x 2mmL magnets.

>>88970891
Thanks for the heads up. I'm not at home right now so I don't have the sprues in front of me. Looks like I'd need to cut the handles beneath the fists and bury the magnets there.

>>88970885
Reaper and pro acryl have good acrylic whites and a greys. The pro acryl warm light grey dries in between a grey and light beige, its a nice warm mid tone for white.

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Had to wait awhile for these transfers to show up. Just need to clean a few things up, and varnish.

>>88970941
I hate pro acryl's bottles so fucking much though

>>88965031
Rubbing alcohol.

when preparing to work with alot of metal minis, what safety precautions should I take? Like respirator, gloves even?

Im talking sanding, drilling, sawing, etc for metal minis and vehicles, many which are old and could(?) contain lead

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Repostan my chaos crab.

>>88971129
ebin
what the crab model come from? please tell me that's an actual fucking crab shell

>>88971137
It's a gacha toy made by Toys Cabin. I wouldn't desecrate a living thing's remains like that.

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>>88968387
This dude on Shapeways has a few solid options, look up "h597589346"

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How long should I be soaking miniatures in Purple Power? Going on day 3 or 4 now, can't remember for sure.

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Wanted to Blanda upp the contemptor and Mk5 dread, wound up with lil' leviathan. I think I've eyeballed ultramarine blue way off, will fix later

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I would be fucking shocked if anyone could guess who I'm painting. Hint, her downfall was the entire county's as well.

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>>88971809
The gcu lopes women's basketball team?

>>88971809
>buying citadel paint

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>>88972141
Who said I was using my own money? I got a stockpile from gifts.

>>88971009
How do you have them attached to the citadel bottles? Normally I use museum wax or sticky tack but I’m curious about other options

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Reposting my little diorama.

>>88972940
Anons, anyone have the pdfs for the mighty brush, specifically this one?

https://www.themightybrush.com/product/how-to-paint-deathwing-bladeguard-pdf-painting-guide/

Kind of curious about their painting method.

>>88972996
Woops sorry 88972940, i clicked on your post to open a reply window.

>>88970682
I'm not saying you can't do it, but it will require extreme patience and practice. To answer your question directly, it would take a few months for a new painter to highlight at that level comfortably; not to mention how long for an entire army.
I would recommend to do your color scheme, but do a much simpler version of the highlighting. Only do this more detailed highlighting on the more important models. You'll get burnt out fast trying to put those tentacles on even one squad of wraithguard.

>>88971855
Pretty good joke anon. I won’t leave you hanging, here’s your (you)

>>88973003
That's okay anon, I forgive you.

>>88969876
An FDM Print of Howl's Moving Castle I got some years ago. I was planning on weathering it up all nice, but failed to get rid of the layer lines with all methods I could find online. It is red because I tried polyurethane varnish plus primer to fill in the lines, but they still subsisted. That thing ate an entire can of Krylon varnish and one of primer, and still had visible print lines.

>>88971482
Take a toothbrush to the model and see if any paint comes off. Its important to remove the extra sloughing paint in order to expose more of the paint to the stripper. I can strip a model bare in a couple days doing this every 4-12 hours

>>88966990
Set this thing up with a camera and laser tag system and you can join the tank model autists in their remote control wargames

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I like big tanks.

>>88972825
Magnets

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>>88973284

>>88972940
Looks fucking awesome dude

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Repainting my old dudes. I paint them when i was like 12. There how it was.

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>>88973451
How it looks now.

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>>88973341
Thanks mate.

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>>88973461

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>>88973545

>>88971125
anyone know this?

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First time doing STLs that needed to be assembled, and the first ones I've ever paid for. But overall for an evening of getting things put together I think it went well. Going to start applying paint this evening.

The only complaint I have is that I wish the modeler provided a some preassembled models. That would have saved me a ton of time printing.

>>88972940
Oh I like it.

>>88971125
>>88973792
basically anything that isn't from the 80s is gonna be pewter and not contain lead. You couldn't legally sell lead minis to kids, that is one of the major reasons that changed.

That aside when you sand something don't inhale the dust (just wet sand) and after you've handled lead you should wash your hands before you eat something. That is basically it.
It is not dangerous unless you literally eat it or put it into your bloodstream somehow.

>>88973800
>The only complaint I have is that I wish the modeler provided a some preassembled models. That would have saved me a ton of time printing.
you could just put them together in a 3d package yourself. More often than not you'll find that the pivot of the objects in question is snapped to the origin, so all you have to do is open the files and they'll be positioned correctly.

>>88973792
a standard mask from the hardware store would do you fine, and some goggles. You just don't want it IN your body. Wash yourself off thoroughly once you're done.

Gloves are needed but you'll have less dust on you if you have to run or do something before you can catch a shower, so again maybe not needed but gloves and long sleeve aren't a bad option.

>>88973865
Oh I hadn't thought of that! I'm pretty new to this over all, but would blender work fine you think? Or are there better alternatives?

>>88973451
>>88973461
Is it a strip + repaint or a retouching on the original?

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Flamespooler for wyrdhollow finished

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>>88966363
>believing space is real

>>88966363
Lighter/more reflective surfaces to prevent your marines from cooking

>>88971129
That's sick as hell, I love it. Repurposed creatures are such a great concept.

Makes me wonder if anyone ever modeled the Iron Warriors' hijacked Tyranid ship for Battlfleet Gothic.

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magnetising stuff I probably don't need to

>>88973886
Blender ist fine. Most importantly it is free and these days it can do bascially anything max or maya can do.
All you need is a program that opens the files and lets you move them around, which basically should be all of them. If the files are set up clean you should not even have to patch up any gaps either, because it's all math, i.e. 0 space tolerances between the pieces

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/tg/, I have a predicament:
>Bought a box of Plastic Mk3 Space Marines at a swap-meet
>They look like plastic
>Try Plastic Glue on it
>Does not stick no matter how hard I try
>Use IPA on it
>Not melting yet
What have I got here? Because I'm stumped to fuck on what's going on. Is it resin? Or did I get a recast?

>>88974299
It does look shinier than plastic, might be resin.

>>88974299
before you do anything else you could try cleaning the sprues in case there is any greasy residues on them. Mold release or cooking oil. Who knows. Either one is gonna miss with all the glue you can throw at it.

>>88974314
Fuck.

>>88974345
Sorry anon.
The mould line also looks more like a resin one than a plastics one.
Plastic ones are very clean lines, not shaky like that.
You got duped but you should be able to clean them up to be just fine

>>88973919
>>88973919
>retouching on the original
this
Metal mini is easy to strip but hard to get paint saty on. Even varnish don't help.

>>88974386
I'm impressed, I want to try it with my own old ones but they might be too thickly painted.

>>88974371
The most obvious giveaway when it comes to moldlines is when there are two next to each other. There are some caveats though.
A recaster trying to do it properly will clean up the original pieces before making a mold, so you only have one mold line, and it could have a jagged line because that is how you prevent a silicone mold from slipping. It should be obvious because the mold line is in a different place than on the plastic sprue though. Where the mold closes on a metal tool is basically dictated by the need to avoid undercuts, so it can look different depending on how the parts are placed on the sprue.
In the case of mk3 marines the legs come in two pieces, one of the legs has a mold line running across the front.

Better indicator might be to test the material. If it just snaps instead of bending before breaking it's resin. If it just burns instead of melting before it burns it's resin.

>>88967868
In my experience the brush primer can be a bit patchy and your basecoat will still look good so don't overthink it. I have a slightly painted old monolith myself that I might just paint over

>>88974386
>Metal mini is easy to strip but hard to get paint saty on. Even varnish don't help.
a lot of beginners don't clean the models before they prime. That means they have mold release under the primer. It's literally designed to prevent things from sticking. In that case that sentiment might hold true, but if you cleaned the models and varnished them, taking off paint is a lot harder. You have to bang metal models together or handle them with sandpaper.
They're not indestructible of course, but the idea that paint just comes off when you look at them wrong is misinformation.

>>88973239
Cool, thanks. I'll give that a shot in a bit.

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>>88974371
>>88974466
Ah well, I can probably resell them on ebay for cheaper.

Don't want em if I can't make shitposty kitbashes with em.
>picrel

>>88974535
why wouldn't you? You just have to use superglue instead of plastic glue.

>>88974498
I guess i got asid in my sweat. I put all metal minies in achochol and clean it with toothbrush. But everytime I touch it with by hands i see metal where I touched.

>>88974535
I like the chewing gum sword blade on the right.

>>88974299
Innocent question here, but I've mainly painted models made of resin and a very small amount of Plastic models. I've used only super glue, what is the advantage of using the plastic glue or plastic cement?

>>88974756
plastic glue/cement is basically a solvent that melts the plastic. Using it to hold plastic models together creates a chemical weld, essentially making it one piece.
Superglue or Cyanacrylat hardens into a bunch of tiny crystals. On a rough surface the grip is enough to hold parts together. On smooth surfaces the glue might not have enough grip and just chip off.

There are advantages to either, but if you want a permanent bond on plastic one is the superior choice.

>>88974756
Plastic glue bonds two pieces, making it monolithic.

>>88974756
Plastic glue isn't actually glue, it's a chemical that causes the plastic to melt slightly so that when you press two pieces together they melt together and become one piece
It results in stronger bonds than superglue and is less brittle.
Think if it as the difference between welding and soldering

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>>88974208
my boy can finally hold his gun

>>88975088
I am prepared for Titanfall.

>>88975088
I'm really enjoying seeing this thing grow. Looks really sick already.

>>88974822
>>88974810
>>88974807
Oh that is a nice alternative, question how long does it take to "dry" is it like a 10 second operation or longer? Are there catalyst that you can use to speed up the cure time?

>>88975249
Depends on the brand
Tamiya makes one that "dries" in 15 seconds but the regular one is workable for a few minutes, giving you time to fit things properly.
You can also use it to hide gaps/imperfections on minis by melting the parts slightly
I use it to get smooth cloaks on my skitarii where the cloak's front and back parts meet.

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Working on tiger stripe camo on a cape

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I really do not like painting these guys

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>>88975200
thanks, it has grown a lot considering at first it was just "oh wow that part would make a good cylindrical head for a BT model"

>>88964495
Your highlights are unblended.

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I tried varnishing a test model (the one on the left) with rust-oleum 2x matte clear but it just gave it a satin finish. i tried giving it 2 more coats and it stayed the same. are matte varnish rattlecans just a myth or am i doing something wrong. model on the right is how it looks without.

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Making electro ladies.
I'm not sure about the head of the leech staffed girl one, probably gonna give her eye stitches in green stuff.

>>88968516
Source on frogs?

>>88970682
If you're just practising this one trick, you can become good at that one trick pretty quickly. You won't be good at anything else yet though.

>>88973284
..and I cannot lie.

>>88975311
How come?

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>>88975088
also featuring my attempt at making a thermite launcher

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Asking for suggestions - what kind of bases should these knights receive? I can't figure out and generic "earth plus grass" would be kind of boring, I think.

The only bases I did before were "snow" bases aka "Vallejo desert sand paste painted light blue, washed with grey and highlighted with white".

>>88976010
Orange to contrast with the blue would work, so maybe a Martian desert type base or rusted metal floor panels, but maybe you want something more ambitious.
I don't know the lore or setting, so I can't comment on that. There's a lot of options though.

>>88971129
Looks like you got crabs, mate

>>88975535
>all that texture
how to tell me you use rustoleum without telling me you use rustoleum

>>88976453
>without telling me you use rustoleum
but he did tell you

>>88976502
for primer I mean

>>88976010
cool knights

>>88973155
>>88975629
So that I can have some models partially painted and tabletop ready could I paint my minis with just a basecoat and wash (and maybe the edge highlights? Not sure if I should do that before or after the wraithbone effect, or at all) like the official GW scheme and then once I've practiced the wraithbone look I could add that on later?

>>88976453
>>88976550
>Cant get Rustoleum priner to work
Skill issue

>>88970682
>but I'm a complete beginner to painting
Painting an entire army like that would take several times longer than doing it normally and even longer if you are not already skillfull with a brush.
It doesn't look like a particularly hard thing to get the hang of but it looks very time consuming and I can guarantee you'll get burned out before you even have 2 units painted like that.
There's a reason why people don't paint whole armies to display standard

>>88976168
>>88976737
In universe, they are literally "very Catholic space knights" from Infinity and don't have specified zone of operation. Except maybe one order fighting at jungle planet in lore but they are mostly shown in city environment at promo images. The precise wide range of options is what paralyze me, that and my low skill level.

>>88977040
You can only get better by doing, so do what you think is cool.

>>88968516
I like the expression of the one on the right
>"I will fuck you up ribbit"

>>88971153
>I wouldn't desecrate a living thing's remains like that
Not very Chaos of you anon.

>>88977559
>it's time to ribbit and tear

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>>88977040
Check out the Trench Bases and Toppers from Stationforge. With the right colors, they would look like debris from buildings and a Street turned warzone.

>>88974172
the what!!!!!!!!??????

>>88973284
looks good, however with that much weathering the guns look too clean without any muzzle burn showing their constant usage

>>88974143
I fucking hate that the best warbands are in the big boxes and subsequently Rivals of boxes tied in with a crap warband.

>>88977596
In storm of iron there was an IW warsmith that got himself a hive ship to serve as a titan transport by infecting it with the obliterator virus.

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Primed them and put a first metal drybrush coat on them. The stirrups made from green stuff won't pass closer inspection, but I hope people won't notice from a distance.

>>88976010
my first instinct is something desert-y, kinda works with the templar theme as well

>>88977877
Fucking hell, that sounds like something to be a lot of fun to kitbash/sculpt and pain it.

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I'm pretty bad at painting and kinda fucked him up. Feel free to roast me I deserve all of your ire.

What color would a glowing ocean mushroom be? I have fallout radiation green for one already

>>88978943
Big flat panels are always more annoying without an airbrush. As annoying and time consuming it is you'd have to just keep layering thin layers to get it smooth

>>88978943
Contrast red?

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>>88978943
thin your paints

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Upgraded my river, I've got a tower coming and think that will do it for Chinese terrain. I have my full town, just a small fishing village set up here. I kinda want to get some docks or jetties and some more scatter terrain. I finished all I had yesterday.

>>88978988
Red, blue, orange, all manner of colors.
Look up corals and colorful sea slugs

>>88979322
>enough space to comfortably set up gaming table
>nice custom scenery
You are living the hobby dream, anon.

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Finally gave a shot at the Wolverine tank from Rampart Miniatures. The tread assembly is done very badly. The order of assembly is so counterintuitive. Apart from that, the model feels really rigid and the details are sharp.

>>88979381
>Implying that he's not sleeping on that board tonight

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>>88979606
Hush anon. Let me have this.

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>>88978988

>>88974299
Look at the mouldlines, they're all jagged and ripped. You have a recast, and not a good one at that.

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>>88979381
Unfortunately the dream comes to an end. My landlord is selling the place and I don't know the space I'll have when I have to move. That was half the reason to get the river mat. It rolls up, while my 2x4 river board doesn't.

I have so much stuff now I can't get it all on the table at once. I just milled up some roads last night, pictured here, I need to dry brush them and get some flock on them.

>>88979606
No I'm not. Not enough room on it!

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>>88979918
I even recently got some Chinese peasants. August marks 1 year of work.

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Finished my Sphinx conversion.

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Does anyone know where I can get some of the old Black Templar chests with the tabbards/cloth? A single sprue on Ebay runs over $50, and I am nowhere near skilled enough to model my own out of greenstuff. I need a dozen or so for a project. I've checked tablegames, cheap n fast, and dark miniatures, but no luck.

>>88978943
Baal red should cover even flat panels nice enough with careful application if you are able, get that. You can then wash it to make it darker.

>>88979150
they're contrasts/air brush paints i can't get them much thinner
>>88979047
yus
>>88981069
thank you friend

>>88980692
if you are open to aftermarket stuff:
https://www.spellcrow.com/templars-space-knights-torsos-with-tabards-p-453.html
https://www.spellcrow.com/templars-tabards-p-473.html

Next best thing I can think of are sternguard veteran leg/torso combinations with tabards.

>>88980462
Love it. The old sphinx mini ia so much cooler than the new shitty cad destiny one.

>>88981159
Those might work. Thank you!
And I didn't even consider the sternguard kit. And of course it just got discontinued.

>>88981171
Another option might be these guys
https://tortuga-gamestable.top/search/?search=tabard
They are primaris scaled though, so they'll be eye to eye with primaris and new chaos marines. Depend on if that works for you.

>>88981241
Those look great, but if they're primaris sized then they won't work. I appreciate the help, though!

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I just finished this piece

>>88981273
wish he was a little more texture (the model, not the paintjob), but he looks good man.

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>>88972940
>missed opportunity

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>>88981255
just for completeness' sake (and cause I was curious as well) I looked for a size comparison
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2GYs19PX3g

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Anyone got any advice before I continue on? Is the combo on the scales just dogshit? I prefer the brown skin but other than that Im at a loss. They're far from finished but I just imagine them looking like shit at the end too. So far I think my next step is to rewash the scales and unify them.

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Working on this AT warlord. Needs some fixes and decals, but I'm in love with the imperial fist scheme.

>>88981549
>AT warlord
>the imperial fist scheme
That's illegal, anon. Stop it.

>>88981273
Nice job, I'm gonna hot glue it now

>>88975703
Loads of detail, a lot of which is really tiny, spread out all over the model just makes it a pain

>>88981579
Not if I use it for epic it ain't

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thinking about doing biel tan, working on a test scheme with this poor ebay rescue. How am I doing so far?

>>88975827
Robert :)

>>88982794
What green is that? It looks a bit muted

>>88980462
That's cool looking, what is it from?

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>tfw switching to vallejo
I never understood quite how fucking abysmal shitadel pots are until I used actual good droppers

>>88983916
Just remember what you said when the paint becomes a gloop after a few months and the dropper clogs. I find vallejo highly overrated. Not bad, but they're not the be all end all people make them out to be. Different paint has different uses, and I never had a problem with pots after I hit 15 and I knew what I was doing.

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>>88982925
:)

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Tried to make a bluestuff mold of these sculpts. Need to use less milliput next time but at least the details are there

>>88984733
Now you can have carrots and parsnips too!

>>88984102
>Too incompetent to keep dropper bottles from clogging
Skill issue

>>88984954
He says, while being too incompetent to handle pots which are even easier. And how you handle them has nothing to do with the paint becoming a thick paste, happened to colors I hadn't used yet as well so it's a paint issue.

>>88984984
Paint in droppers from brands like Vallejo doesn't go pasty from my experience, the droppers prevent way more evaporation. Paint pots are shit and GW only continues to use them because they're retarded bongs, end of story.

>>88984102
been using vallejo for years. Never had that issue. Frankly not even sure how you could possibly do that unless you don't screw the caps back on.

>>88984946
Like a true salad warrior

My streaking grime has has turned shiny and glossy, i must not have shaken it enough before hand. Is there anyway to fix it?

>>88985063
I make sure to close them well, I have no idea how it happened, maybe I got a botched set, I have droppers from reaper and they don't have this issue.

>>88984102
I've never never had the dropper clog, but couldn't you just take off the dropper part and rinse it with hot water or take a really thin nail and stick it in the dropper like a sounding rod?

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>>88985387
>like a sounding rod
did you really have to say it like that?

>>88979527
Did you also have problems getting the sides fit to the bottom hull plate and that "wall" inside the tank?
I agree on the tracks. But at 25€ its hard to complain. There are worse plastic tank kits out there.

>>88985387
Oh yeah, it's not an unsolvavle problem.

>>88979527
>The tread assembly is done very badly. The order of assembly is so counterintuitive.
dunno, but looking at the box behind the model it looks like your model has the chassis and the tracks in a different position. Chassis on the box looks like it does note extend beyond the track assembly tot he front.

>>88984102
You're full of shit, I still have a Magic Blue from ca 2003 and it's as liquid as it gets

>>88985673
maybe the packaging got worse over the years.

>>88968201
yeah, i really like the flame spirits too, I even tried some airbrushing on the yellow gradients.

>>88975524
I'll work on some player characters next, I guess I'll try to glaze the highlights this time. Never tried blending before.

>>88985673
>it didn't happen to me, therefore it's impossible
If you got no problems good for you.

>>88985227
If the only paints you've had issues with are from a set then its definitely just a particularly bad batch of droppers.

>>88979918
50VL

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This is a silly question but does the shoulder pad placement seem right? I'm trying to put together some assault intercessors and this power sword bit is made so strangely to where I can't tell if I'm placing things correctly

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>>88986425
Not a silly question at all. GW used to cover the transitional areas with a secondary smaller pad on older sculpts.
If you look at 2nd-3rd edition characters and sergeants with raised arms you will see that pretty consistently.
It would usually sculpted so that the soft armor opens up towards the bottom in an A shape, while the top of the upper arm was covered by the internal smaller pad.
I think this particular arms might have been sculpted with the idea of it being tilted slighty more towards the front in a sweeping motion instead of an "rally towards me" pose. No reason you can't use it that way though.

If you want to you could slightly alter the shape of the upper arm's armor and add the internal pad, but that is only really a detail turbo autists like me would care about.

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>>88986484
another one for good measure

>>88986484
>>88986498
Yeah I do see what you're talking about there where both parts of the body glove face out. I might look for a different sword bit to use since pointing forward with the blade seems odd in such a static pose

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>>88986556
in your case you might get away with just covering that gap in the armor with the Besagew (yeah, I had to look up how to write that).
Anyway those small shields are on historical suits of armor exactly for covering up the gap under the shoulder where you would stab to get to someone's artery.

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>>88985451

The other side wall didn't fit perfectly. Had to file the wide "tabs" a few times. The inside wall didn't cause trouble.

>>88985500

May look differen that pic, but done exactly like the online manual says. Where in the GW's tanks the hull is done completely before adding the tread links, the links are done here before adding the outer track walls.

Luckily the back hatch works perfectly. A smooth hinge.

>>88986894
>May look differen that pic, but done exactly like the online manual says.
Yeah, looking at it again, the 45° chamfered edges on the hull might have fooled me there.
Interesting kit. Might have to look at that (for my orks maybe)

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>>88986894
>>88987035
I found a pic of my two wolverines that shows how the front section looks next to the tracks. I has a cool shaped hill, and its even possible to build it without gluing the roof, to have the interior visible and potentially playable.

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>>88987324
>>88986894
I think Rampart was throwing shade at GW here.
lel

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>>88987470
Even sellers on ebay are mocking them.

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>>88987470
absolutely based.
They didn't even hollow out 0.3cm3 of tracks

>>88987470
I still don't understand why people care so much about this

>>88987525
Because if I buy a tank I want to be able to leave the boarding rank open to show off the interior. The option might be nice at least.

>>88987525
because it makes a very expensive product feel cheap shit even if you will never see it in regular use

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Took a pic before the wash. Now we wait for drying.

Captcha: YWHWH

>>88987525
my pic shows the absolute shameless greed GW has RE: the tracks.
And don't use muh no space left on sprue excuse. This has been discussed ad nauseum. The matter is settled.

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>>88987573
>The matter is settled

>>88987620
this but unironically.
sprue quantity x tank size x MSRP all factored in, it's a blatant fuck you.
guardpiggies and GW damage ops said otherwise obviously

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Doing an ebay rescue if a revanent titan and I'm a bit dismayed to learn the guy pinned it with literal nails that are halfway to impossuble to remove

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Wash turned out pretty nicely

>>88987767
do you have any bluestuff? you could mould it underneath then hit it out with a hammer

>>88987767
holy fucking based

>>88971809
cleopatra

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>oil paint order arriving today

Looking forward to trying out oil painting a lot more. Just a basic set of windsor newton artist oils and a Payne's grey, and some cheap synthetic brush packs in different sizes to start with. If I end up really enjoying it I can always buy more colors. Got a couple test squigs, some heads, and a stormboy ready to practice on. If I feel up to it I may try to paint my loonboss in just oils. To start with though I think I'll give the test squig a quick base coat in acrylics to set the scene.

>>88987767
>Try falling off now you god damned cunt

>>88987767
I would never trust eBay for a FW model unless it was at a substantial discount

>>88988038
It was at a good price for the condition it's in, I just didn't know about the nails

>>88987767
>>88988294
to be fair...he did a great job putting it together. It would have been damn near indestructible.

>>88988325
The pose is shit which is why I want to break the legs up, otherwise I'd just strip and rebase it

>>88987767
>that are halfway to impossuble to remove

Sounds like they do what they are supposed to do.

>>88987767
What a fucking Chad

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>>88987767
>crucified for the sins of poorly-binding glues

Hey /wip/, what's the plastic cement of choice around here? Considering buying some Tamiya - the square bottle with the brush applicator, because fucking super glue is not working nearly well enough with building spindly necrons.

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Ok, after reading lore for ~10 years I painted my first guy! 8$ for random “space marine heroes” figure. Done it all with old acrylics from high school (white was already chunky) and I am ready to throw some real money at GW. What is the best box to buy first? Should I invest in base coat spray? Anything else thats essential?

>>88990489
>Tamiya - the square bottle with the brush applicator

Exactly that one.

>>88990549
By box i assume you mean box of minis? Start Collecting/ Vanguard or whatever they call them now are generally your best bet for a decent deal.
> Should I invest in base coat spray?
Yes, but dont buy GW ones unless you're planning on basecoating in white.
>Anything else thats essential?
Investing in good brushes and some brush soap for maintenance might be the most worthwhile purchase you'll ever make in this hobby.

>>88990549
Pliers and a hobby knife for getting models off of sprues and clearing off mold lines. Plastic cement for glueing plastic models. Primer is good stuff, check up on how to properly do it and do a practice run on a bit of plastic. Official GW stuff is always overpriced, consider alternative brands.
Maybe some basing material, depending on what your plans are.

A valiant effort on that model, considering what you had to work with. Make sure to thin your paints, watch this one to fully understand why it's important: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sBDVPoNXyVI

>>88990549
Way better than most first paints I see, good job anon.
I know this is a meme here but I highly recommend getting a different brand from GW for your core brush-on acrylics, their stuff is very overpriced and the containers they come in are absymal. Vallejo model color is great and you can get it online a lot cheaper.

I'm sure this will start a shitstorm like it does every time because people here are retarded, but please buy actual hobby primer. Don't just get rustoleum or something.

>>88990489
That's the guy, another good option is the Mr. Hobby brand. Mr. Hobby has a larger flatter built in brush, the tamiya built in brush is a smaller round tip.

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>>88990683
Fuck me, I checked the prices again and everything is at least 45$. I thing I will try to get one more single character mini for ~10$ before I make this into another money sink. At least the brushes dont look that expensive.
>>88990758
Lol, I think I actually watched this video… after painting that blood racen!
Yea, I have to learn to work with paint, but I am plesantly suprised by watter paint. Worked with ethanol based ones as a kid and these are much more user friendly.

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>>88990862
Yea, if I am ready to spend on something its brushes and primer. Maybe even a spray brush for christmass! Always wanted one. Vallejo seems zo be pretty pricey as well. Is there a brand thats concidered cheap and “good enough”?

>>88990920
>Fuck me, I checked the prices again and everything is at least 45$.
There's recasters and alternatives that are a bunch cheaper. Quality is a mixed bag though.

>>88990975
>Vallejo seems zo be pretty pricey as well.
It's $2.70 for a bottle that will probably last you forever. If that's seriously too expensive for you, you're in the wrong hobby

>>88990975
Honestly the packs of cheaper synthetic brushes can't be slept on. I'll do about 70% of the work with a cheap synthetic brush to save mileage on the better brushes. And dont get memed into spending money on a dry brush, small round eyebrow brushes from the beauty store can be had for a buck or so each and will work just fine.

>>88990975
I kind of thought it was expensive at first, but despite how small it looks, it will go a long way before its empty. I also wouldn't suggest going for "good enough" paints. If you end up getting invested into the hobby you'll eventually just throw away all the "good enough" paints in the end. Better to go with quality for $1-2 more than go for bad quality and end up paying $5-6 more.

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The weather finally cleared up enough for me to properly test the 20 year old Tamiya white/citadel black spray cans. Sadly the white only came out in a dribble, I didn't try much more out of safety concerns but it wouldn't prime anything. The Chaos black however seemed to be as good as I remember, can't get a good enough shot of the results but it's smooth enough, imperfections are likely my own rust. Will be thinking about a good color scheme for him.

>>88991378
I would offer one caveat - cheap craft store acrylics are just fine if you go deep into the terrain building side of things. But they are a false economy for mini painting, particularly if you’re new - they’re too fiddly to work with without a lot of thinning in just the right ways.

The darker a color is, the better it looks over black primer, right?

>>88992209
The darker the primer, the darker the color you put over it appears till you get to a certain pigment density. Meaning darker colors need fewer coats over black to appear solid since they're already closer to black than lighter colors. If that's what you meant by "better" then yes.

>>88990489
Zvezda makes really good stuff. They somehow got around the bans on toluole in glue.

>>88990489
>Considering buying some Tamiya - the square bottle with the brush applicator
This is the primo shit, you really can't go wrong with it.

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Infraggable Krunk base coats

Can't be bothered to paint, except Tau.

>>88992881
Fill in your seams. The ones on his arms are way too visible for my liking.

>>88974299
I bet that smells like China when you shave resin off it.

>>88992241
Yeah, that's a concise and intelligent way of saying what I wanted to say. Thanks for the confirmation on that.
>>88992774
>>88992854
Was meaning to buy some but got distracted by paint and neglected to buy the cement. I've got some Testors in two tubes I found in my model box that I'll give a shot.

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>>88992881
That's clearly the Amazing Bulk

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First time oil painting, pretty happy with it so far. I really enjoy the process and am glad I tried it. Started the squig from black prime and white ink zenithal, didn't varnish it beforehand either. Only prep I did was some dark flesh acrylic inside the mouth and some burgundy on the tongue, besides that the rest of the colors are oil paints. I wanted to go classic squig red but my dark purple base wash that I wiped off ended up very violet, and my attempts to blend my red into it only served to lighten the purple. Said screw it and mixed up some magentaish and pink paint and just went with it. Its hard to tell in the photo the oil is still wet, but the blend on the sides is a lot more subtle than the camera gives credit. I really enjoy this style of painting and will definitely keep practicing, but I think I'll make it a bit easier on myself and try painting the oils over some acrylic base tones to help myself out.

>>88984102
>le dropper will destroy your paints!
>pots being shit is user error
It's these talking points again.
How much are they paying you?

>>88987767
So I got the pelvis and hips disassembled by dunking it in isopropyl for a short period and then chipping off some of the excess glue and then carefully prying the pieces apart with a small lever. I tried a hot water bath before and a bit in the freezer but I don't know if that helped or did nothing

>>88993429
Show us The Nails. Let us bask in their glory.

>>88993477
Next thread. My phone is upstairs and I'm comfy right now

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>>88931062
So I glazed a metal mini (2 coats) after priming it in different spots with picrel, Plaid FX clear primer, and a control group with bare metal. I didn't bother using my varnishes because I already know paint doesn't adhere to them well.
The Createx Autoborne was the clear winner. It made a thin coat and the glaze was relatively even, with both the first coat and the second.
The Plaid FX was decent. It went on a little thicker, and had a little less tooth for the glaze to grab onto, but it was better than nothing. The glaze needed the second coat to be even coverage.
The bare metal control glazed better than I expected it to, but there were still spots where the paint didn't stay.
The results of the test weren't surprising to me. Plaid is muh childhood but I've tried quite a few of their products in mini painting and there's always a better alternative. The only Plaid thing I still use is Mod Podge for basing glue, although their Ultra spray looks interesting.

What do I do if I have really thick glue residue that isopropyl soaks and even acetone won't loosen?

>>88993953
Turn it into practical effects with pigments/weathering stuff, maybe? That's what I plan on doing with my expensive fuckup.

>>88993229
Oh god, someone else has seen The Amazing Bulk.

>>88974555
GO acetone for metal always, eats up anything not metal like warm butter

>>88980692
BMM

Question about Zenithal priming:

I've been trying using Zenithal priming on a number of minis lately (an extra blast of white primer isn't a huge ask so why the hell not), but I'm really not seeing any sort of effect after finishing my painting. If there is any sort of effect it's so subtle I can't notice it. I know it's a big deal for those contrast paints everyone's nutting over, but I'm still using older edge highlighting techniques I learned from here and admittedly pretty low-pigment Tamiya acrylics but after applying a few coats of base coat, a wash, touch ups, and all the other details I'm not seeing any noticeable advantage compared to single-color priming. Is it something that only really stands out if you're using acrylic inks in an airbrush or higher end paints?

>>88994798
Personally I think xenithal is a meme, it never shows up unless you're using speedpaints. Some people say it helps you visualize the model's highlights while you're painting it, but that doesn't matter for the base coating step and you can't see it after that anyways so I don't get it.

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>>88978943
Don't forget the wash.
Hit the tips of the missles in white
Clean up around the lights
Heat burns on the gun maybe a bit of soot
As someone who does Marines malevolent the uneven paint can look kino if you weather it right. make it look like it's intentional by the chapter to mimic the spilled blood of our fallen brothers blah blah blah

>>88990489
To add onto anon's question, what about metal, or metal on plastic? Stuck with superglue?

>>88994852
I wish my yellows looked that nice

>>88994990
Then Prime white and work in thin thin thin thin layers

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Not going to claim to be at all talented at mini painting.

Working on this guy, and was going to wash him now that the base coats are done. Was originally going to use a dark tone to darken him up a bit/lot and make the scales really stand out, but then figured I should instead ask around on if there's a better choice in wash for a scheme like this.

Any better idea for a wash across the grey back and green scales?

>>88994819
If you're using opaque paints over a zenithal you simply paint a lighter basecoat over the light areas and a darker basecoat over the dark areas

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Hey everyone, I'm a painting noob and I'm also painting with contrasts/speed paints (I know, learn to paint for real...) I was just wondering, what would I use if I want this armor color and skin color? For the armor I'm thinking a mix of abaddon black with leviadon blue to get that blue/black-oily color, don't know what to do for pale/grey skin though.

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>>88995647
another picture for kinda the same skincolor I'm after (not these models though, just for color reference). I want the really pale/almost gray skincolor.

>>88995647
Black with desaturated blue edge highlights.
White (or a very pale green/blue) with a light green or blue wash.

What's a good vallejo rattlecan primer for light colours? I didn't really like their Grey, it's almost white and I feel like paint doesn't take to it very well. Can't get Citadel ones because I have to order them online and I would like to prime stuff tomorrow.

>>88990920
>Fuck me, I checked the prices again and everything is at least 45$
Look for Imperium issues if they where sold in you area, should be cheaper than retail boxes to start off
Also never ever buy from GW website, almost every other distributor will have a better prices

>>88995647
vallejo german grey + a blue wash will give you something like that, then highlight with cold dark blue

>>88995567
Would depend if you want it to lean warm or cold. Black, grey, blue, dark purple, dark red, or dark brown would all fit the bill depending on what you want to do afterward.

What's the most effective or easiest way to cut perfect round elements for bases out of polystyrene sheets? Each time I use scissors, it ends up ugly.

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Need to sculpt 3 more models and i should be done with this side project

>>88996264
A machined punch. Since there's no way you'll have one, draw a circle with a compass, cut a rough shape with a knife and sand the rest.

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any ideas how to make good quick paintjobs on these guys? Maybe some videos showing how to batch paint medieval infantry

What's /tg/ using for background noise while painting?
I can't paint to music or silence and I'm all out of peep show.

>>88996865
Unironically, slapchop.

>>88997442
>>88997442
>>88997442

>>88992881
I fully support making the Justice Friends. See what you can do with the other two, and I recommend making his pants green