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First test print of my vamp for WFB. Always helpful to see things printed and realise the chain mail is way too small for printing. Print lines a bit heavy as I used a strange orientation to save the twenty extra minutes.

What’s everyone else working on?

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I used to print my dnd terrain, but very recently (today) I switched to making terrain with xps foam, mostly for time and cost saving reasons.

I'm currently running an urban campaign and I wanted to make some medieval tudor style houses and some cool cobblestone street tiles.

the street tiles are easy enough, but I was wondering if there are any plans/templates for different kinds of houses I can use to trace it on the foam to cut some corners. measuring it all out by myself is okay, but any chance to save time is welcome

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Working on this for a dnd campaign im making.
Printed on a neptune 2 because im broke.

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Does anybody bother trying to sell their original sculpts anywhere? I tried putting mine up on cults but it doesn't seem very busy. Maybe I'm pricing things wrong or something. Stuff that I put up for free gets a decent amount of downloads. Pic semi related, i haven't put the stl up yet.

>>88080619
Sadly if your sculpts cant be used in certain tabletop game franchises your sales figues are going to be pretty dismal. You could appeal to the lowest demoninator and sculpt coomer/anime shit, because dweeby virgins always have money to burn.

>>88080619
I feel like MyMiniFactory is probably the better marketplace to sell to just in terms of raw numbers.

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>>88077584
I'm working on a fleet of ships for my Rogue Trader game. I have more Chaos ships and some transports printing now, this one was just my first one to test settings.

>>88080619
Neat, looks like the steampunk bastard child of an R-Type fighter and the spider mechs from AT-43. I want it, but as >>88080686 points out, I don't have anything I can use it for, so I probably wouldn't buy it.

>>88080917
Its actually an enemy from FF6

>>88080619
at the moment I'm only looking at sets of models that are full enough that I could use them as a cohesive OPR army, so I probably wouldn't buy your one-off despite looking pretty cool.
I don't know if "lean in harder and make more dudes in theme" is good advice for you, but it's something to consider.

which, speaking of, who's got some cool skeletons to shill or share or just brag about. I just switched to a bright white resin and it activated an urge for a troop of bone boys.

Do train people pay for 3D models of shit they can put around their layouts?

>>88080619
taking your model as an example here for a moment.
the Diesel punk aesthetic is very limited in terms of customers. 40k players and dnd players aren't your customer base which means you don't appeal to 95% of potential buyers from the start. next your model looks slightly out of proportion for classic 28mm tabletop ( the tiny guns and the overly large exhaust pipes etc).
If you look at who sells models and what they sell its models tailor made for specific games that are popular or specific fandoms. if you would be making models for the new upcoming Frost haven for instance you'd see much more activity on your models as there aren't any good models for the monsters out there and the predecessor game was and still is vastly popular

>>88080784
bfg ships are always appreciated.
make sure to post the painted version over at /wip/ once you finish it.

>>88082827
absolutely. the train community in europe is about 4 times larger than the wargaming community and those old arts generally have vastly more money than time so they tend to spend a lot of money on their projects. I make a decent amount of money selling street signs ,lamps and traffic lights etc. the good thing is you can model those things yourself relatively easily so there are no copyright issues and thanks to scalability you can cover all model train scales l.

>>88079036
>but I was wondering if there are any plans/templates for different kinds of houses I can use to trace it on the foam to cut some corners. measuring it all out by myself is okay, but any chance to save time is welcome
i mean there are dozens of scenery workshop articles from White Dwarf for WHFB scenery floating around as pdfs and they made an entire book of cardboard buildings you can find scans of as well. The old articles usually had templates and you can use the cardboardbuildings as templates as well. When you print them you can just use a ink/toner saving setting and do a low quality print to trace them onto another material.

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Anyone have a handle on the release schedule of new printer models?

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Okay, total beginner her. Bought a starter kit of Anycubic photon mono 4k and a wash and cure station as it was on sale. Am I set to go, or will this all fail miserably and destroy my life?

I received an old resin printer a few years back, that really got me headache, after about a year of trial and error, and only a handful of good prints I quit. But now I have my hopes up again, what are some dos and don't for a beginner like me?

Im mainly going to print small stuff like base decoration, extra bits for my miniature games and such. Perhaps a few miniatures to bolster my Mordheim warbands, will this printer be up to the task? Any help is appreciated.

>>88085024
a wash and cure station was the best investment, anon. it makes things so much easier.

first, use lychee slicer. it's the best slicer. use one of the presets for your resin as a starting point. then print the cones of calibration by tableflip foundry. adjust the time settings accordingly. also set lift and retract speeds to pic related.

then, learn how to support your objects if they don't come presupported.
>what do I have to look out for?
first, detect islands, support those.
then find high suction areas - those are the white areas on the model when scanning over with the mouse in support mode. the bigger the white area, the higher the suction. choose your support size accordingly.
>big white area towards the bottom?
use heavy supports, depending on the object size, mid supports will work too, but try to have at least some heavy supports for the bottom parts.
>too many islands?
turn your object around and see which position fits best. if printing minis, it's usually good advice to make the face face upwards, you don't necessarily want supports in the face.
tilt the object to some 33°, that's usually an angle with the least suction. but that, of course, differs from model to model. you'll get a hang of it.

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>>88085502

>>88085502

Thank you so much anon. Im really quite hyped about this adventure now which at the beginning of my day just started as an impulse purchase!

>>88085024
Started last week with 3D printing, it's not rocket science.
Do your homework about cleaning, part replacement, as it is a good idea to know exactly what you will do before handling toxic products.
Be careful about the ventilation also.

>>88085927

Yea, I have a good workshed where I usually work with my hobby. But Im thinking I should install an active fan to help with the smell that resin might produce.

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i was afraid to print it, but came out awesome

>>88085895
>started as an impulse purchase
always does and now I have 4 of them and no space or use for all the minis I printed

>>88080135
>dnd campaign
>coomer models
>shitty fdm print
you must be one of those people that nekbeardia are talking about in their rpg horrorstories.

>>88085024
a year of failing to print anything ? I mean ... are you in full posession of your mental faculties ? you might simply be feeble minded. I'm not even joking. I printed my first viable model after the test print and improved ever since. you can find foolproof tutorials and error analysis all over the internet. the only reason for your failures is yourself and given that you bought a printer and need to ask 4chan for advice tells me that you still haven't done the neccesary research on your own to find out what you need and use your brain for once...

>>88087768
How big is that running gear? I can see you’re going for the American style after the Pershing, but the shortest in the “line” had at least 8 road wheels. Unless you’re trying to build something like the T92 or the Ontos then the running gear you have is gonna be absolutely out of scale

>>88087768
>but the amount of mess I've made
with a wash&cure it's really just "let excessive resin drip off the build plate, put the build plate in the washer, get it off the plate, off the supports, do whatever clean up you want to do at this stage, put it into the uv chamber for 5 minutes, done"
but I do have to say that I now changed to water washable resins because the amount of IPA you need wasn't cost efficient at all. and the water washables are just as easy to print and I don't have to deal with the IPA odor

>>88088010
Honest to god I’d base the running gear closer to the Christie suspension on the Tetrach paratroop tank, four large road wheels evenly spaced. Alternatively, if you want to hate yourself then you can do the Pzkpw II Luchs interleaved road wheels, but that would be major pain.

>>88085024
Get a ventilation setup of some kind, the fumes are nasty and can.be dangerous in the long run..

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Decided to bite the bullet and buy a SLA 3D printer and wanted to build a safe space before using. I've put together a vent system and was wondering if i should use a cardboard box as cover or cut a hole in the printer glass and attach it there. Not a fan of the latter itll damage the printer and I dont have the tools, but I want it to be as safe as possible for my cat.

>>88088489
you definitely don't want to compromise the glass
cardboard hood is a decent start, a full enclosure like a fume hood or grow tent is probably better

>>88088489
I bought a plastic tupperware container from walmart that had a foam seal on the lid and cut some holes to make a cheap fume chamber.

>>88087830
I'll use any goddamn mini I want. If I have to constantly look at it I want it to be attractive, now if my players dont want me using it I won't, but my players are my closest friends. I don't think they care

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>>88093148

>>88093214
Lol, good. WAGMI

>>88080619
>Stuff that I put up for free gets a decent amount of downloads.
This is a good start. Word of mouth/building a following/etc is not going to be easy. You need to set yourself apart from the 9000 other sculptors. And you need to publish sculpts that people want. Like the other Anons have said, D&D and 40k and lewds are what 99% of folks going to pay for.

>>88095499
looks like a samurai cowboy riding a fiend of slaneesh :D

>>88088489

If the vent outlet is going to be going into your apartment, make sure to get a carbon filter as well.

>>88093148

> I'll use any goddamn mini I want. If I have to constantly look at it I want it to be attractive

Spoken like a true coomer connoisseur

Help diagnose resin print failures maybe

How sensitive to vibration is the worm-gear pillar the bed rides up/down?

I've noticed my mini-heater strapped inside the lid of my Mars 3 touches the column housing the worm gears about midway up, and it does vibrate slightly from the fan in the heater. My prints have a failure, not consistent, after a certain height that all the calibration troubleshooting couldn't fix.

>>88087830
>you must be one of those people that nekbeardia are talking about in their rpg horrorstories.
More like their audience lmfao

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I've got a set of interesting...failures?
Pic related, every other of the torsos printed just fine, I know I'm gonna need to bit the bullet and get an official wash and cure instead of my ghetto chinalamp and tupperware. The inside of the torso where the head should go on the circled torsos look instead like a riverbed, with no nice divot for the helmet.
Additionally lately I've been noticing that the bottoms of prints where they orient towards the plate are either bulged towards the plate or incredibly uneven.
I'm using a Sonic Mini 4k that's all original parts and apporximately a month and a half old.

How bad are FDM printers for terrain?
I want to print a shit ton of late 19th/early 20th century buildings and I'm not sure if a FDM printer would be worthwhile having

>>88101148
How much do you have to pay for something like Siraya Tech Simple in your region? If you already have a resin printer just use that.
An FDM printer will cost you a lot of time and effort to truly calibrate and get started with.

>>88100734

So I'm assuming you're new. The reason they tip the models back 45 degrees is to avoid exactly what you're talking about. Printing large flat things isn't very good in resin. When the print pulls from the fep it warps. The way they're printed matters a lot. So when you print those bodies when it goes down to make another layer the neck cavity is still filled with resin so whatever is there will be cured.

Tldr you're a retard. Tilt your models back a bit. Also print cones of calibration if you haven't because your problem sounds like over exposure as well. If you look at presupported models they're always at angles so that the way they print they don't warp. That's essentially what you're experiencing. You're trying to print them flat so you're getting warping.

>>88101148
fdm printers are better with dimensionsal accuracy. somehow my larger resin prints can be somewhat lopsided. fdm printers can print terrain details just fine, but yes, it takes a long time, but resin is also a lot more expensive and a 0.6mm nozzle speeds things up significantly without costing you much detail. also, pla pieces are a lot sturdier and lighter.
unless you're mentally challenged, levelling a filament printer is not hard and all printers worth buying have some sort of auto levelling.
and with tree/organic supports, cleanup on complicated terrain pieces is not really an issue anymore on fdm printers

the little bit of definition on TERRAIN you gain with resin printers isn't worth the resin prices. also, drop a resin piece, chances are it's broken. doesn't happen so easily with filament prints

but if you want my personal opinion, I'm >>88079036
and I'm enjoying the foam terrain building a lot and it gets done a lot faster. but if you're not the crafty type, I understand if you choose otherwise.
I still print out interior terrain and fancy windows/doors with resin, but walls, bricks, floors etc I build with foam and wooden picks and the endresults look amazing

>>88101650
I’ve noticed that printing bases flat I get fewer failures than canting them 45, so I figured that normal models would be the same. Currently got the cones printing and will post when I can get home

>arctan(layer height/pixel width)
you're welcome

>>88100332
touché!

>>88100734
you font need to bite the bullet you just need to use your brain and do the bare minimum of research before printing to avoid all of your failures.
the print fails can be avoided by angling the models and actually doing decent supports instead of putting a single fucking support for the first 30+ layers of the torsos and the washing failures can be avoided if you actually washed the prints instead of just dumping them in dirty ipa for 5 minutes and wondering why the magic ipa fairy didn't wish away all of the resin that stuck in the crevices...

>>88101148
fdm does make sense for large pieces but expect it to take forever to print enough terrain to fill a table .

>>88102157
>fdm printers are better with dimensionsal accuracy.
this is false and based purely on this anons inability to tune his printer settings or do a half decent job at supporting his models. resin printers have dimensional accuracy between 20 and 80micron which is around 5-10 times higher than any fdm machines manufacturer claimed capabilities (note "claimed" not even the actual real world applied capabilities).

>>88102157
>resin is a lot more expensive
sunlu basic costs 17$ per Kg
pla costs 20$ per Kg on average

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Can a too low lift speed be a problem ?
Following a discussion last thread, where I was trying to fix my ~20% failure rate, I decided to change the initial lift speed from 60 to 40/min, and it resulted this time in a total failure (I think only the burn in layer got properly printed). Is that just bad luck ?

Can it also be I put too much stuff on the plate ?
It was pic related, with the bases tiled by ~30% and supported.

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>>88103753
>you can print as much with a kilo of resin as you can with a kilo of pla
>pla has residue you need to wash off and disposed of
>cheaper sla resins have a same amount of suspension medium over active photoreactive material
fuck off retard

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>>88077584
Printing a Chaos Daemons soup, first time printing large demons since I upgraded from a Mini to the Saturn. These lads get BIG

>>88100734
The larger the footprint that starts parallel to the build plate the larger the pull forces on it, and thus the more supports you need on that surface to both keep the print attached and to prevent warpage. Exposure setting can also contribute, but in general you want to avoid large flat surfaces as your first layer, hence why angling the STL is a good idea. If you don't factor this stuff in then you will start seeing the bulging or peeling at edges.

>>88104159
>Can a too low lift speed be a problem ?
No.

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Anyone know the sauce on these models? I don't care if they're free or not, I'd gladly pay for them, they look superb.
A name or a search term, anything, I beg of you printlords.

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>>88104852
Failing that, just any collection of 3rd party Steel Legion look-a-likes that are this high quality and this 1-to-1.

>>88104729
Well hope it's just some bad luck then, and not some printer problem.
Looking again, the print was really fucked up, half the raft didn't even stuck to the built plate. Last print was almost perfect, so I doubt it's an FEP problem, but who knows.

>>88104852
>>88104875
Fuck off James

>>88104159
Printing bases flat to the plate like on the right there is going to do a number to your FEP. In general overloading your build plate is going to age your FEP faster.

Also, you didn't supply the minimum deets we need to figure out your problem : printer, resin and exposure

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>>88105295
Printer is Anycubic Premium (yeah, some would agree I wasted money), resin is ABS+ from Anycubic.

Exposure time was 2.3s as it was the one that provided the best results with the cones. I indeed tiled the bases by 30-45° before printing, but I don't have the .lys file anymore. Everything except the base was presupported, with small modifications where I had failure on earlier prints. I'm also planning to change the FEP at some point next week, when I'll receive it replacement, because it became pretty cloudy (but I didn't seemed to cause failure on my last try).

Again I did half a dozen of mostly successful print before, and the only thing I change from those was to reduce the "step 1" lift speed from 60 to 40mm/s.

Given the results seemed to follow the pic related pattern, do I need to relevel the build plate again ?

I might try again latter today with less stuff on the plate, still trying to pinpoint how much I can print in one go.

>>88105400
>resin is ABS+ from Anycubic.
Your first source of failures.

>2.3s
This seems low. But I don't have a lot of experience with mono printers.

>the best results with the cones
Understand that your print is pulling the FEP up away from the screen while being lifted up. The FEP and the build plate are in a tug of war. Eventually the FEP gives up its grip around the edge, and then it has equation cascades in the build plate's favour, leading to the POP of victory. One small cone test is going to give the FEP a lot less to hold on to so will give up it's grip faster. Loading up your build plate gives the FEP a lot more to hold on to, increasing the FEP's chance of winning the tug of war.


>I don't have the .lys file anymore
Use Chitubox. And you should be keeping a log of all your prints, along with all files created.

>Everything except the base was presupported
I assume you mean autosupported.

>do I need to relevel the build plate again ?
This can't hurt and is trivial to do. Before leveling, maybe check if that section of the plate is closer to the screen somehow? Like slide 2 sheets of paper under to see if it catches in one area before another.

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>>88105654
>Your first source of failures.
Bought because it was on sale (lol) and seemed most resistant than basic one. If you have any recommendation of a better brand, I'll take it.
>This seems low. But I don't have a lot of experience with mono printers.
Well, manufacturer recommended 2.5s, but go better results on the "failure" side with 2.3 and 2.4s.
>Understand that your print is pulling the [...] the tug of war.

I indeed hope it's "just" this. Will try again later with just the heavy weapon and the supported bases, to see what happens. On the other hand, did pretty "heavy" print (~12 minis plus a tank turrent) without problems. It's just the fact I suddenly had a total failure that's bothering me, while before I was just minor parts of mini failing to print left and right.

>I assume you mean autosupported.
nah, I mean the .stl came with a version that included supports.

Why are all eldar files fucking dogshit? Am I Looking in the wrong place?

>>88105722
Yeah, skill issue. My eldar files look great and print well.

>>88105400
relevel, tighten harder, and sand build plate

>>88105722
>Why are all eldar files fucking dogshit?
Because you are printing miniatures for a shit game.

Trannygram isn't helping me so far,so I'll ask here,any ideas on where I can buy scans of knightly orders of the empire?

>>88106505
third world websites where western devils have no power or try cults

>>88102762
that's because you do crappy supports. Also bases benefit from being printed almost vertical in most cases.

>>88105400
chances are you had debris from previous prints in the vat that stuck to the lower right corner of the print causing the failures.

>>88105716
2,4 looks actually better for the failure side. up the exposure by 0,1 it might make the difference between support failure and success.

Does anyone know why one corner of my print isnt sticking to my buildplate?
It all prints well, no failures no nothing, but once the print is done and i want to take it off, one corner is loose, great for scraping it of the plate and keep going but I would still like to know the reason, bottomlayer exposure is 40sec Mars 2.
Not expecting a perfect diagnosis without pictures from my side of the end, but some ideas on why that might be the case

>>88105716
>>88105956
>>88106651
>>88106663

Well print over after a full cleanup and back to the last successful settings with a slightly higher exposure time and way less stuff on the plate and seems that everything went ok .
I didn't wash tho, so no idea if there isn't small missprints.

So either it was a one time problem, or lower lift speed somehow fucked up everything. Will try again later.

>>88106515
I've messed around with some keywords In cults and haven't found scans of the knightly orders,so any chance you can point me towards those third world sites?

>>88108234
>point me towards
and have them shutdown? naw nigga, no chance.

>>88108488
Fuck,then maybe post them in the aos/fantasy trannygram group? And delete them in a minute so there's less of a risk

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Retard here. What model is considered to be THE baby first printer nowadays? Is Anycubic Mono 4K still the best for people that keep ending up with their dicks stuck in fan?

>>88108595
this is 4chan dude. all comments are copied to archive sites within seconds of them being posted. this is why i laugh when snowflakes run to the mods when their feels get hurt.

>>88108669
That's why I suggested deleting it quickly

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>>88104852
>>88104875
Oh, huh. I kitbashed those out of STLs from Reptilian Overlords, Davik Designs, and a bunch of other stuff from my STL collection both free and paid. Kind of surprised to see them here since I only really posted them in that discord.

I can't share them since RO actually knows about them and has seen them and knows who made them (I actually asked if he'd be willing to pack fan kitbash content up as an add-on for people who own the files but he was unwilling), but if you want some incredibly accurate steel legion search up "Legion of the chem-wastes" on Cults. They're 15mm but I've seen them scaled up to 28mm, and they're about the same level of detail as the OG Perry sculpts. Pic related.

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>>88109374
That said, here are the custom bits I made if you want to just grab the RO files and kitbash them yourself.
https://files.catbox.moe/rwrrht.7z

has there been any improvements to water washable resins? I've always been curious to try them out

>>88108608
>Anycubic
Void this company. Their resin is crap. Their printers are "OK" but the company is anticonsumer.

>>88108608
All resin printers are hard/easy to use. SLA isn't like FDM. There's only one moving part, one single physical adjustment and basically only one print settings you have to dial in.

Get the Elegoo Mars mono 4k.

That said, if you are clumsy maybe handling dangerous chemicals might not be a good idea.

>>88104852
>>88104875

Have the next best thing.
https://litter.catbox.moe/t28byo.zip

Which paint do you guys use to paint large pieces of terrain? Citadel paint is too expensive for such large sizes

>>88111989
>88111989
Apple Barrel type craft paint, or Vallejo if you still want "real" miniature paints. Maybe worth saving for details while doing the bulk with the cheap shit. You can also save time if you just spraypaint the desired basecoat color on.

>>88111989
dirt cheap craft paints from the dollar store.

>>88108686
yeah not worth the risk bro. besides you could be the popo for all i know.

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>>88109374
>>88109459
holy shit you're astounding! thank you so fucking much. I guess I can understand RO or Davik not wanting to cooperate, it annoys the lazy side of me, but I'll take this as a chance to learn how to digitally kitbash. Cant be that hard, right? I played level editor in Halo before I know what a y and z axis is lmao.
Also thanks for the chem-wastes suggestion, Ill take a look at them. Even if I dont use them for 40k at least I got a lead on Steel LEgion models for if I ever get into Epic.
Again youre awesome dude, Ive had those two pics on my phone for like a year or two now.

>>88111987
thanks dood. I dont have blender on my laptop currently, but I looked at the file names. Are those just straight up scans of the actual models?

Any recommendations for mesbg Stls that don't stray too far from the movies? I'd be interested to see a cool Sean bean boromir

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>>88114777
>Are those just straight up scans of the actual models?
Yes. With everything from that range, Officers and Heavy Weapons included.

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>>88114777
>Cant be that hard, right?

Not really hard, no. Learn basic stuff like boolean cuts for getting rid of chunks of models and the rest is just adjusting meshes so the parts fit together or cramming them together and unifying the mesh. It also helps to acquire a bunch of different STLs to use for parts. Free and paid stuff works, it's all just fodder for the mill really. Learning to make your own basic parts will also help, but is slightly less urgent until you need something specific.

>>88115953
Neat. I was thinking of modifying some of these scans I keep finding(thanks for pointing out baggers, whoever that was earlier in the thread) in minor ways. Swap a head, swap a weapon, ect ect. For example, swap out a Steel Legionnare's lasgun for a flamer, and another has his helmet off. Stuff like that.

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DM Stash shill back once again.

Have your vote for the free model you'd like and whatever wins I'll post in the next thread.

https://strawpoll.com/polls/XOgONQLman3

Also if you want some cool free goblinoids to throw onto your printer we have 3 free on our website at the moment. You can throw in any info, only email matters so you can keep the files.

https://www.dmstash.com/product/mana-goblins/

>>88080619
Are those yours? Those are pretty sick. Problem is that the market is now really saturated and incredibly difficult to get any grasp or foothold into. Your best bet is word of mouth like other anons said by having a few free models and shilling online in different places (basically how I started lol). It seems like you're just doing this as a hobby at the moment though, but if you ever want to take it more seriously you can try dump some capital into advertising and start a Patreon or Tribes.

There's also other interfaces beyond Cults. Cults is one of my lowest income streams for outright sales. Most my outright sales are on MMF or my own website. But there's also Creality Cloud and Phrozen just started their own equivalent called Pixup, but I think the latter is invite only at the moment.

>>88118156
Thanks Man

>>88118156
Love your stuff thanks as always.

>>88118156
Damn many of those look real nice.

What's a good place to look for printable stuff to base miniatures? Or bases already decorated. Just got a Mars 2 and I'm trying out a few things

>>88121534
MMF, cults, and thingiverse are filled with stuff, a lot of good stuff is free too.

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Nobody took me up on the offer last time but this thing's still lying around unused

Company fucked me on a replacement part and sent me a Mars 3 Pro plate that I cannot use, so if anybody here needs/wants a replacement plate for their mars 3 pro and you live in the US I'll send it 100% free of charge since nobody's been interested in buying it locally either.

You can contact me at this discord: robowoof#1613 to discuss things like mailing addresses

First come first served and only one in stock, ideally I'd like it to go to somebody who actively needs a replacement but if you just want a backup I won't say no

If I get a taker I'll post a followup reply to say its off the table

Quick one:
Anycubic ABS-Like Resin+ or Elegoo
ABS-like and why? Mainly for printing 28mm minis.

>>88124561
>for 28mm minis
why get ABS-like at all for that? Standard resins have enough flexibility that you're not going to snap thin pieces off when removing supports unless you just grip and rip

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>>88124561
These are made with elegoo abs, after hardning kinda weird to work with

Post mesbg stls

>>88124561
>Anycubic
Never ever use AnyCubic resin. It's crap. AnyCubic is a crap company.

>>88125819
>AnyCubic is a crap company.
NTA but that has me worried. Bought a Photon Mono 4k either late last month or early this month and have yet had a chance to do more than make sure it powers on and the display works. Fuck.

>>88125869
i got a mono 4k 6 months ago and have had 0 issues with it since starting it up.
As long as you follow all the basic 'best practices' everyone on here preaches it will go smoothly.

>>88125819

Anycubic resin is fine. But it is the bottom of the barrel for resin. Stuff will snap very easily. Spend a little more and spring for abs like but if you're really worried about breaking buy some tenacious and mix with any brand. 100ml to 1l should give you some good strength.

If you plan on printing a lot of terrain or busts use anycubic. I personally use cheap sunlu myself. You're printing these minis for literal pennies. Just print another lmao. I'd buy some tenacious and just mix it if I printed something big like cthan or angron proxy. Everything else I'd just use abs like.

>>88125869
I have 3 Anycubic printers, one of which is 5 years old, and they all work great. Their resin is shit though, I use Elegoo.

>>88125869
I'm >>88125819. I have a Photon (classic). If your printer works, it will work well and consistently. Mine has for 2+ years. If your printer is fucked, then AnyCubic's support is going to give you the run around. I wouldn't worry to much about your printer. But avoid their resin like the plague.

>>88125940
>>88126061
>>88126202
Thanks Anons, I've been worried since the printer will be boxed up until I settle a matter with my folks and do some heavy room cleaning and reorganizing,

How come people don't scan GW minis as much? Aren't they safe putting it up on boosty or some other Russian site?

>>88126715
scanning doesnt capture enough detail
simple as

>>88126715
this >>88126870
Modern scanning software is really easy to use and most new phones with multiple cameras can be used with it or that one absolute mad lad who downloaded all the 360 degree photos off the GW web store and used that as input for the photogrammetry software but the models it produces are a bit shit and need a lot of cleanup even to print. Maybe it will get better with time, or there will be better software to automate the cleanup and produce something usable from the get-go.

>>88127003
>>88126870
I see. Then my follow up question is, why isn't there more copyright infringement behind the iron curtain, like on sites like boosty? So many STLs I see are a little bit different so they can escape western copyright laws.

Is it because the Russians and Chinese rather just do recasts instead? It seems more tedious to do a recast method than to design a good mimick STL and just print it whenever someone wants

>>88127022
if they are selling physical models then printing is very slow and inefficient for mass production, and if they are selling digital models then it helps to be able to sell them to westerners

>>88127074
Really? Printing is slower than recasting? Because recasting seems like a fuckton of work and it's usually done by an individual model basis

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>>88127022
theres more money to be made by selling "legally-distinct" STLs on well known sites than there is to be made selling 1:1 recreations behind the same cloak & dagger that recasters use.

1:1 recreations are still out there (pic) but you gotta dig for them.

Has anyone ever tried buying these? or are these basically all things I could find if I actually installed telegram?


https://www.etsy.com/ca/listing/1400460929/tabletop-miniatures-ultimate-pack?click_key=0ec424b89f97a07621d3f3444b97537c9a55b3b0%3A1400460929&click_sum=320819aa&ref=hp_more_from_this_shop-2

>>88128033
since they don't really show anything of what's in the pack I would guess they have a script to scrape thingiverse/cults, autogenerate supports, and upload it to google drive and that actually there is nothing good in there

What are some good "legally distinct" Titans/Knight STLs out there if I don't mind paying?

i need like 30 arms printed, i can model them but no printer :(

>>88128600
There are a bunch of printer for hire services.

>>88128836
Nta but which ones?

>>88128894
Google 3d printing service ffs

>>88127106
recasting is technically faster in terms of curing time of the resin but you are correct it's a lot more labor intensive and the cost is pretty much the same unless you want like 20+ copies of the parts you recast.
I recently calculated a project for a complete table with space hulk terrain about 5-6 kg worth of resin and the cost of printing and recasting would have been pretty much the same as the moulds and additional work eats away any savings from the cheaper casting resin.

>>88129209
So when I order a 50+ models from a recaster, some eastern European dude is hating his life?

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>>88077584
>What’s everyone else working on?
I'm sculpting a Kerrigan for the Genestealer Cults/Nids, I did one years ago but not to print, the hair will be a pain in the ass and I suppose you can find a fuckton, I have to print a key fob too.

>>88129257
no he probably rejoices that he doesn't have to do hard manual labor or work in a cold soviet warehouse and gets a payed in dollars instead of his own weaker currency. there is a reason why most recasters are in low gdp countrys as the lower wages there make the relatively labor intensive recasting much more profitable. for me I'd rather spend a few dollars more and let my printers do all of the work while I enjoy painting some minis instead of constantly mixing resin and demoulding casts and get frustrated over tiny bubbles or partial failures etc.

>>88129737
Cool, and I also get to virtue signal I'm supporting Ukraine too. *Dabs

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>>88129546
>>88077584
i'm slowly working on tadpole skinks for lizardmen

Gonna post some skub: when post processing, do you remove supports or process with supports on?

>>88133707
wash in ipa with supports then throw in hot water before removing them. that way they soften significantly and reduce scarring on the model.

>>88133173
Looks good, you will have to split the legs if you want to make different poses

>>88133707
I've tried both ways. Removing the supports before curing is a million times easier. Dealing with the bucket of contaminated water after is really annoying, but still it's better than trying to clip off the supports after curing which is tedious delicate work.

>every surface that has supports ends up swelling so if I'm splitting a model I can't use the flat side for anchors or they won't sit together
am I retarded or is this just a limitation you have to work around

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working on modeling out some MK2 helmets with this new printer. Thing's printing great out of the box, only issue I'm seeing that wasn't present on my old mars is almost every single stl on the plate will have a small divot at the apex of the arctan angled curve, like an airbubble but way too consistent seeming to me
Anybody know what could be causing this? I'm pretty sure I have my arctan calculated properly for the Saturn S printing at .02mm being 67.38 degrees

>>88125819
>Never ever use AnyCubic resin. It's crap.
Care to tell us why?

>>88135151
not that anon but from personal experience of about 50 bottles of the stuff as well as pretty much every other cheap resin it's the worst of the bunch. frequent random delaminations, gunks up your ipa worse than other brands and tends to cure very brittle. currently my absolute favorite is zmud and sunlu basic both cheaper or at least as cheap as anycubic and way better in terms of material properties.
You can still get good prints with anycubic , hell I printed several armies with it, but today much better options exist at the same price range.

>>88134865
skill issue.
dial in your exposure and lift speed
add more and smaller supports
orient your model properly to avoid flat surfaces facing the screen and your problems should evaporate.

>>88135051
you aren't the first to report that issue ,sadly I don't know what causes it or how to fix it either.

>>88135526
>dial in your exposure and lift speed
they're as low as they can go without causing failures
>add more and smaller supports
doing this accentuates the issue
>orient model with flat surface away from screen
results in avoidable scarring on the actually detailed faces

>>88135496
I've been seeing several Youtubers shill that Sunlu resin and how it's runny enough to naturally drip off the model. Good to know it's not just marketing. How's zmud compare to it?

>>88135816
As in runs off quickly or just at all?
I use phrozen's standard 4k shit myself and typically can't pull a print off the plate till 30-90 minutes after it finishes and they're dripped almost fully by then, barely need to go over them with the toothbrush before tossing in the IPA spinner

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>>88135812
as I said , skill issue ...
going as low as possible means the resin is very soft causing it to warp when pulling off the fep. learn to dial in your printer anon ...

case in point: my newest addition to my 88th Siege Army , termite assault drill printed in 3 parts , no post processing other than washing and twisting off the supports. minimal gap filling required.
printed on a saturn using dirt cheap zmud resin.

>>88135816
zmud is similar in many regards. very runny and as strong as sunlu , toughness wise between anycubic basic and abs like . not as flexible but very hard to break. washes like a dream and doesn't gunk up your ipa too much. excellent detail retention and a very velvety , matte finish (pic related btw). almost no odour. price wise the best of the budget resins at 16€ per Liter on Amazon of all places here in Germanistan.

cons: slightly higher exposure time compared to basic resin (2,4 vs 2,1 on my saturn) , some presupported models fail ( don't know if bad supports or resin is at fault). some reviews mention they can't get it to print but I chalk that up to skill issues as I have had zero failures with manually supported models and as mentioned before supports fall off with no additional cleanup required.I would suggest using more support than usual to prevent failure. I'm a proponent of many smaller supports wherever possible anyway.

>>88136071
>case in point: my newest addition to my 88th Siege Army , termite assault drill printed in 3 parts , no post processing other than washing and twisting off the supports. minimal gap filling required.
>AA artifacting everywhere
>shit splattered on it
>edges where the model was split still curling
>gaps so large that they'd be model ruining at infantry scale
lol?

>>88136141
you never worked with resin models before did you?
also where the fuck do you see any artifacts?

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>>88136199
>you never worked with resin models before did you?
All of my prints are infinitely cleaner than this thing
>also where the fuck do you see any artifacts?
pic related
I didn't bother circling the central cylinders because those are clearly just a low poly model issue and not your lack of AA and proper orientation

>>88136256
top left is about the only area that could reasonably be some artifacts I will admit, lower left is literally a detail of the threads. the other circles show absolutely nothing but layer lines and not AA artifacts. although looking at the model in more detail I did in fact do a poor job supporting some areas where there are clear delaminations on the drill bits.
If you have cleaner prints feel free to post them and give me some suggestions on how to improve. I'm not above learning from others.

>>88135051
Got a pic of that guy next to the mkVI plastics? It looks pretty good anon.

>>88136536
I don't sorry, don't currently have any mainline HH models aside from a cata I grabbed for scale comparisons. And thanks, the helmet and the chain bayonet are the only bits I've modeled myself, the rest of the body and the bolter is by fummelfinger on cults

>>88136593
Ah well thanks anyways though. And I appreciate the pointer!

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>>88136373
Don't have anything vehicle scale yet, was waiting for my flex bed to arrive before printing something that large even when chopped up
Zero post print cleanup aside from ripping supports and wiping down before rinsing in IPA
Helmet came out messier than I'd like as this was a test for splitting the torso and inserting it from behind so I could blend the gorget with the chest
Axe and gun are a little messy with the mag on the combi having a support failure on the left drum but I'm still honing in my workflow for weapons and arms
damage to the trim on the front and the lightning bolt entirely user error from it slipping out of my gloves while brushing
This is with unga brain lowering my print time as low and it can go like the anon asking for help did (believe I landed at 2.15 seconds per layer), and lift speed from the chitu default profile for the saturn
AA enabled with AA level set at 2, grey at 0 and IB at 2 and .025mm layer height

>>88136842
Yeah no problem, my advice if you end up trying any of his models is starting at 90% scale and seeing how you like them sized against your GW minis, they stand from helmet to feet at about 36mm at 90%, and keep in mind that his models are intended to keep the helmet at 100% if you scale down to that size

>>88136888
thanks for the suggestions going to try them for my next batch of prints.
2 minor questions : why set grey level to 0 isn't thst defeating the purpose of AA and what's IB ?

>>88136986
Hey thanks a bunch. Ive been thinking about making some space marines but I cant decide which scale looks better along side my other minis.

>>88137441
I like them at the 36mm height against my 28mm non-marine minis myself, puts the normals eye level at like nipple height on the marines and their proportions aren't too far off either

>>88136888
support settings are pretty much 1:1 from this video as well: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AIFRpG5V5vQ
>>88137203
Grey at zero is actually the strongest grey value, if you mouse over the settings in chitu it will show a brief gif comparison of the different options, with 8(?) being the least amount of grey pixels and 0 being the most
And IB is image blur, haven't tested too much with variations on its strength since the results at 2 look great when painted, mostly pulled my basis for these values off that video about AA and angles in the OP

>>88137692
>that video about AA and angles in the OP
holy shit someone not only read but used the op.
>end of the world: confirmed

>>88139502
Don't worry anon I found it independently of the thread :^)

I won a gift voucher for some 3D printing and the guy said he only works with FDM, which is fine, i found some Hex bases and Battletech scenery stuff to print, but he keeps insisting I come and meet with him to "catch up" about the stuff i want printed as it will be "faster than doing this over email".

Is that normal? I thought the STL files i provided would have everything he needed and he could just tell me how much of everything my voucher would let me print.

>>88140543
It's either a glowfag sting operation to strike back against pirates, or he's gonna roofie you and blow out your shithole.

>>88140570
He did write in the last email that he'd meet up with me at the local pub and that the drinks would be on him. I asked if we could do it by phone call and he insists it be a face to face meeting.

>>88140619
he's either lonely or wants to sell you something he doesnt want a record of. yeah i'd be supergluing your asshole shut before the meetup.

My fdm prints over a certain size keep warping on the bottom and coming up from the print bed. I've tried skirts. I've tried brims. I've tried increasing print speed, decreasing print speed, increasing bed temperature... nothing seems to work and it's really depressing for a 47 hour print job to end up warped into uselessness again and again. Do I really need an insulated heated enclosure for FDM printing? I have single pane windows with tile over slab concrete so my home swings in temperature very quickly when it becomes cold outside, but this printer isn't fast enough to finish a print during the warm part of the day.

>>88140867
What filament are you printing in?
If you're using anything other than something like PLA you're going to want to build a simple enclosure, I made one of those ikea LACK enclosures and slapped some reflective heat retention foil shit on the inside to improve the temp maintenance after observing the inner and outer temps during the first few prints and it solved my issues with curling/warping with PETG
Also you shouldn't be needing a 48 hour print for anything for a /tg/ related project, how big of a thing are you printing? That's approaching the amount of time it takes me to print a full cosplay pistol on my bigger FDM

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>>88141081
It's a basic PLA, and I made sure the print bed isn't warped either.

>how big of a thing are you printing?
I was trying to print some medium size terrain pieces, including pic related, but nothing huge. Things print more reliably with a higher infill percentage and thicker walls, but it still fails the same way and it takes longer. The printer I have tops out at 100mm/s but when I go higher than 60mm/s it seems to fuck up. Half of the prints I've done so far have come out warped and it seems shapes with sharp corners fail more so I am pretty sure it has to do with uneven cooling I just don't know what I can do about it.

Since it is apparently being embargo'd, can someone spoonfeed me what the nintendo links are, was always curious. WIll poist chaos lancer pics.

>>88141159
>shapes with sharp corners fail more
Look for a setting for "jerk" and lower it a little

>>88141443
>cura hides those settings by default, and the default value is stupid high
I will try cutting the value in half and increasing the width of the brim and turning up the print bed temp further and see how it goes in another 17-24 hours when the next print is done. Thanks anon

>>88140543
either he wants to sell you something or wants to rape your Anus. probably both...
run away as far as you can this glows harder than fluo paint

>>88140867
it's a common problem with fdm. the only real solution is a temperature controlled enclosure that heats the entire print to a uniform 45-50° C which costs a ton of energy. alternatively a better print bed that sticks like a mofo but that has downsides of its own like never getting the damn print off the bed after it's done.

When do yall throw out/filter your IPA?
I'm usually dumping mine when it starts to get cloudy enough that you have trouble seeing pieces at the bottom of the pickle jar

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>>88141651
>the corner started peeling off the plate just 1 hour into the print
I'm going to try taping it down to the plate. I have no idea what else I can do to get it to stick other than maybe coating the build plate in e6000 or some other slow curing adhesive or getting an insulated enclosure.

>>88141786
What are these extra sticky print beds and where can I get one? I'd rather be chiseling the print off the plate with a paint scraper than deal with it warping or coming off the plate entirely

>>88142188
get a flexible magnetic PEI sheet for your printer if you don't already have one
a lot of them are two sided either with two normal PEI or one that's textured for printing things like PETG
never have adhesion issues again
also wipe your plate down with IPA after every print, just a spritz and a rubdown with a paper towel/microfibre rag

>>88142206
should the textured side not be used for PLA? also I didn't think to wipe any oils off the print bed in between prints but that sounds like a good idea thanks anon

>>88142242
In my experience the textured side doesn't do much for PLA and can make it harder to squish that first layer down onto it, and yeah definitely wipe your plate off if you're having adhesion issues, even if you think you're being careful to avoid touching with your skin you're still probably getting contact on it somewhere. And if you haven't recently it wouldn't hurt to relevel the bed as annoying as it is. I have an ender 5 plus and since the build area is so large no matter how careful you are pulling the magnetic plate off there's just so much surface area providing leverage as you lift that it's getting nudged off-level again

I know they would not be "game" pieces but does anyone make battle dioramas? Like say a big Tiamat vs Bahamut diorama?

What are your thoughts on Raven Twin Miniatures ? Their files look neat, been tempted to buy their Modular Giant files for a Chorf army but I heard they aren't the best company when it comes to quality control.

>>88143075
yes. Sadly my memory is useless today. Red and white logo is all I can remember.

But there are people doing dioramas like that.

>>88143774
Didn't know chorfs used giants. Or are you using a different ruleset than the allowed norm on /tg/ *lol*

Anybody have a good recommendation for a scanner that can somewhat perform decently with 28-36mm scale minis? I'm not expecting clean scans from any consumer grade scanner but I can touch models up myself just fine

>>88142137
I don't. When it gets that cloudy I leave it in a sealed bottle in the sun for a few days until it's clear again.

>>88154912
Doesn't resin curing while in IPA stay partialized and get swirled back into the liquid when you start upsetting it with your next batch of prints?

>>88156927
Once it's clear I strain it into a new bottle. Haven't had any problems.

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>>88143774
They're called Chaos Siege Giant but I plan to use them in 9th Age, renamed to Citizen Giant

was stupid and payed for some random chatgpt to blender plugin, it sucks balls.

here it is if you want to test it

https://gofile.io/d/QEku3T

What do you think the future of 3d printing will be for war games?

>>88127110
>1:1 recreations are still out there (pic) but you gotta dig for them.
Even on the graham?

>>88157757
I've all but stopped buying physical models after buying my printer. I prefer custom skirmish-level games, so I'm not the kind of Smurf-loving whale GW chases, but I don't see any reason I'd need to buy from them again. There's nothing they have that's so good I can't proxy it or find something else to use.

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would this be caused by insufficient retraction? It seems like the nozzle is dragging the filament around when its printing

>>88158058
clean your bed, then relevel it while its hot, then clean it again.
you're getting shit first layer adhesion

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>>88158089
will I ever get this buildplate level?

>>88142188
Curveball question; what are your fan settings like? It could be your cooling is contracting the new layers to the point that it's causing curl (PLA doesn't do this as badly as ABS does, but it does do it).

Can I just stick my 3d printer in a closet and let it print in there, or is the resin gas and particles gunna go through the whole house anyways? Do I really need to spend hundreds on some whack ass ventilation tent so my lungs don't explode with cancer in a couple of years?

>>88162349
>Can I just stick my 3d printer in a closet and let it print in there
No
>Do I really need to spend hundreds on some whack ass ventilation tent so my lungs don't explode with cancer in a couple of years?
Yes
or build your own

>>88162349
keep it outside if you can, i have mine in a shed with some heating in the winter

>>88162349
I put the print in the balcony to print usually, the smell last 2-3 days if I print inside the flat.

Im not on trannygram, are there any good cirno models? Ive seen some but they either have no download or would just not work for printing at all
checked everything, cults, yeggi, sketchfab etc.

>>88162996
>the smell last 2-3 days if I print inside the flat.

Wtf..

>>88162349
Put it into your bathroom. Either it has a fan already for air circulation, or you are opening the window regularly, right?
The printer wont smell worse than you taking a shit.

>>88163341
don't listen to this retard, it's not the smell that's the problem

>>88163631
No, its the fumes. And guess what will get out of the bathroom window or ventilation?

What masks should i be using when resin printing?

>>88166452
niosh

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ive wanted to buy the models from a seller but it got fucked in the posting
so i bought a resin printer, Anycubic Phozon Mono 6K.
First model came out pretty good but had some air bubbles on her leg which i filled with epoxy
Second model was the second try for it, came out almost perfect but has a shifted arm so i might fix it with green stuff or reprint
Third one came out good except for the right hand which is a separate stl file, i didnt print correctly twice so i might reprint it with another batch

Do you know why the right hand might not the printing correctly? I saw a small hand slice stuck in the reservoir both times.

>>88166771
bad orientation or few supports most likely, you can lower the lifting speed too.

>>88166771
did you do the calibration test prints or did you blindly jump in to printing models with little regard for tuning?
given that you posted zero information about your print settings I tend to opt for the latter...

Anybody have good examples of prints at .05mm height with AA on?

>>88166771
show the supports and print settings

Shit, my birthday is nearly a month away. Was trying to think of something cheap and useful and remembered that the Ender 3 is around the $100 price point. I have a boxed resin printer for /tg/ stuff, would having an additional FDM machine be a bit silly, outside of occasional stuff like terrain and /k/ funs do you think?

>>88170716
There are lot of non-tg stuff to print. Like storage boxes, cable clips and so on.

>>88142188
>>88141651
Followup: the print more or less needs to be tossed. Sucks. It's not even close to flat on the bottom and I don't know how it didn't come off the bed didn't printing. By the end barely any of the print was still in contact with the plate, and once things cooled it slid right off with zero force.

Both sides of the plate are textured, but one side felt rougher and the other very slippery to the touch. I washed both sides with alcohol and flipped the plate over for good measure.

>>88158430
I left it at the default which is 100%, but fan or not, the ambient air temperature swings throughout the nights between 81 F to 50 F due to my shitty furnace and thermostat.

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>>88077313

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>>88171626

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Leman Russ hull and tracks that I printed and assembled. No it's not primed black, that's the color of my resin. I ordered 3 bottles of it when I bought the printer and they didn't give me a choice of color so I assumed it would be grey. It's not.

>>88171634
>lets take our battle brother to tijuana and bling the fuck out of his eternal ride
nothing against you, but fuck i hate nudreads

>>88173924
For me, they're the only thing in shitmaris range that I like. Now that dread mech with a baby carrier on the other hand, is completely shit

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>>88167540
i did the test file that came with it then the models
>>88168362
i used the default settings for Mono 6k

>>88176558
That elbow needs more (1-2) supports. Use Chitubox if it has a profile for your printer. Use this to calibrate your resin:
https t DOT co/pBeVf4pqS4

>>88176558
Also, 3mm/s is 180mm/m which is way to fast. You want something like 40 mm/m aka 0.66 mm/s.

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>>88177299
this is the default settings for my printer on chitubox, does it look good?

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>>88177474
>>88177299
>>88177270
that file is printing and it says its gonna take an hour, i printed the cones and validation test earlier and they seem fine (i broke the validation one trying to remove it from the plate and shaved it a little on the side when my hand slipped)

>>88171096
>>88158430
I tried again with different fan settings and am getting much better results so far, thank you anon

>before
0% fan on layer 1, 100% fan for 2nd and all subsequent layers

>after
0% fan on layers 1-10, 25%-100% fan for all later layers inversely proportional to how long the layer takes to print

why are the default slicer settings in cura so garbage? is cura shit and is there a better slicer I should be using? resin printing was so much easier to get right even if adding supports and cleaning up are much more of a pain in the ass

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>>88177838
i dont see any issues with it, im gonna try to build the hand part only, multiple ones to be sure

>>88178805
That looks fine.

>>88177474
Personally I'd change the 50mm/min lift speed to 30 or 40 mm/min lift speed. The 2nd column lift speed is OK.

The first number is the first 2mm of lifting. The 2nd lift number is the last 6 mm of lifting. The faster your initial lift number, the harder you are pulling on your FEP, the higher your chance of damaging your FEP or your print.

If I were to get an elegoo machine, would I not have to worry about cancer if I bought those mini air purifiers? It seems too good to be true, but the reviews seem to say it's really good but I don't know if those are curated or biased or not.

>>88180047
ill keep that in mind, thanks
i tried to print four copies of the same hand model but only one managed print correctly, others were empty supports and some residue stuck on FEP

>>88180266
That's highly likely your lift speeds being to fast. I also guess you are using Anycubic resin.

>>88178608
I can't really say that Cura's shit; I can say that I hated the fact that they hid all the settings by default and switched to slic3r (now Prusaslic3r) because of it.

>>88180702
yeah the grey basic resin

>>88180942
Anycubic resin is shit.

Your high lift speeds are ripping the hand off the supports.

>>88181173
Also, how big is the hand and did you hollow it out?

>>88181188
its pretty small and no hollowing, id say 5mm wide at its largest
dropped lifting speeds to 30mm, gonna try to print some test models this weekend

Where do I find good Chaos Space Marine stuff?

I am new to warhammer 40k and am attempting to print my first army. Any advice on finding files other than just googling it and hoping for the best? My tyranid warriors look like fucking rejects.

>>88178805
I see tons of ripped layers all over the flat surfaces and edges. either the lift is way too aggreeor exposure needs adjustments.

>>88182796
search on yeggi and cults, yeggi to find the copyright proof names for a particular faction and cults once you have the key words like "shovel enthusiasts" or "expendable brigade" in case of Krieg for example

>>88163011
Yes, they have pedo anime models on the graham

>>88177838
Your cones are busted. You need to increase your exposure time so that the left most success cone doesn’t break free - it should be completely connected. The way the cones work is that once they break free they still stay as a part of the print and show. So the goal isn’t to have all of the failures be non-visible, it is to have the success cone connected and the failure cone break.

>>88182876
Thanks you, the second part of information is very helpful. I found a cool trygon under the name trynne gonne lannister, original game of thrones character.

>>88181173
>>88180942
I was thinking about anycubic or elegoo. Now that ive heard that anycubic resin is shit gives me all the more reason to buy elegoo

Elegoo is also doing a bulk resin sale where its 15$ per kg if you spend 150 for 10 bottles.

how good is their resin? And is it bad to use other brands resins in other brands 3d printers considering they are built mostly the same

>>88183487
Don't just take the word of one anon for your purchasing decision. I've been using Anycubic resin and haven't had any problems with it.

>>88177474
I haven't found any for cirno specifically, which is the only character I'm interested in. I checked 5 groups, not sure where else to look at this point.

>>88184008
meant for
>>88182905

>>88183487
Hardware wise, they're all about the same at that price point. The problem with Anycubic is the company themselves and their shady practices. Examples:

* Every time they release a new printer they change the file format for that printer. They maintain their own plugin for Chitubox and until they get around to updating it you're stuck using Photon Workshop. Total BS. No need to change file format EVERY new printer release.

*They are known to have crappy customer service. Within a year of buying my mono4k the power supply died. They told me where I could get a new one from amazon and never offered warranty support or anything.

* They have a shady buisness ethic. They were caught stealing Siraya Tech's description of Fast ABS-like resin word for word from their amazon page and posting it up as the description of their own new product. They even left Fast ABS-like in the verbiage.

* They have really sketchy marketing tactics, sure they all do, but Anycubic seems to be the worst. They prey on the newbie by making them think water-wash resin is safer or easier or even a thing that can be washed with water only so must be safe, or their eco resin which is supposed to be eco friendly...and is just as toxic and harmful if mis-handled than normal resin. Then these newbies buy into their ecosystem, including proprietary FEP and other consumables, and then wonder why they can't get a print that works worth a damn.

* Related to the one above: They have also been known to sell garbage resin as 'almost out of date' resin lots and then when the customer has trouble they reply, "well we did say it was almost out of date. That must be the problem." when it was just garbage to begin with.

>>88183518
Cool story bro. Anycubic resin is still shit.

does an STL exist that's basically a PERFECT recreation of the plastic MK3 shoulderpads? And does any anon have it?

>>88184410
Yeah, but you can't have it

>>88184489
aw maaaan

>>88157776
especially on the gram

>>88183487
>is it bad to use other brands resins in other brands 3d printers
All consumer SLA printers use 405nm resin, if that's what you mean.

my supports don't always adhere to the model, what could be causing this?

>>88185076
What printer? What resin? What software are you using? What are your settings?

>>88185187
Halot one, elegoo water washable, lychee to slice. printer is the middle of printing so can't see my settings

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Does this layer shift seem more like my bed got nudged when pulling the last prints off or could it be I lowered the print time too low? It's across all of the models on the same batch at the same height but not as intense on some

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>>88181326
>>88182828
dropped lifting speeds to 30 and increase exposure to 3. Gonna see the results after 7 hours

Anons can you suggest a good enough resin that is cheap?

I want to learn properly without using the elastic one I already bought and keep it for fragile pieces

>>88186995
I did exactly that a few posts above. learn to scroll...

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>>88079036
When I wanted to print a village, I printed the walls and shingles separately so that they could be laid flat, made a mold with acetic silicone from the hardware shop, and then poured in cheap polyester resin from the same hardware shop. The smell of death lasted the whole weekend, and the definition is not great (good enough for a basecoat and drybrush, it's just that everything is a bit "rounded" because detail retention is not great...who cares, is older and more worn out bricks) but I made ten houses in a day with, like, 15 bucks.

>>88187013
I had a look but can't find it

Ok, so, /3dpg/

I finally have my place, with a room for printing. Well, it's a general workspace room but what I mean is that it is separate from other rooms in the house and I even have most of the stuff I need for a hooded enclosure. So I think I can go back to fiddling with resin. I used to, but only with water washable and only when there were no roommates around, so I quickly stopped trying and waited for my own place.

I basically only print for our D&D campaign, and for anything larger than human-sized printing FDM is more than fine (unless it is a centerpiece boss or something, but even on those I made do with FDM). Honestly, with a little bit of fiddling and the right models, FDM is enough even for humanoid creatures, but now that I can I wanted to give an upgrade to the pcs' miniatures and maybe to some important npc.

So, two questions:

>1- What's the toughest printing resin available that is good for miniatures? I gave up on ww because being a miniature at the gaming table is a rough deal and having things keep snapping off got pretty bothersome pretty fast. I don't care if the resin is a bit on the pricier side, I will literally be printing just a couple dozen individual 28mm-ish figures, but they will be grabbed, dropped, and if they could withstand being unceremoniously put in a box with other miniatures to be transported (as FDM printed ones can) that would be great. As a note: I'm in Europe so that could maybe affect the available brands? Also, if it matters (definition-wise or stuff like that) the printer is a baseline Mars, that I'm aware is nothing fancy but back in the day I didn't want to go all-out on a resin-printing-in-a-shared-house situation. If I get the bug now that I can, I will upgrade.

> 2- Now I have almost two bottles of water washable (1 elegoo, 1 phrozen) that I might have no use for. Do you have any idea of what can I do with them? Terrain? Rubble? Markers of some kind? Drink them?

>>88183487
>how good is their resin?
It works.

> And is it bad to use other brands resins in other brands 3d printers considering they are built mostly the same
Doesn't matter, you can also mix resins.

>>88184177
>making them think water-wash resin is safer or easier or even a thing that can be washed with water only

>safer
its still resin

>easier
absolutely

>washed with water
ofc

>>88187526
>Do you have any idea of what can I do with them? Terrain? Rubble? Markers of some kind?

If you are playing D&D and you dont know what type of tokens, little terrain pieces or whatever you need then nobody can help you.
Maybe print some piles or treasure or some tavern tables.

For your first question:
You want ABS-like resin, which can be mixed into your existing resin to make it stronger and more "bendy".

>>88188065
>If you are playing D&D and you dont know what type of tokens, little terrain pieces or whatever you need then nobody can help you.
>Maybe print some piles or treasure or some tavern tables.

I have a overhead projector so I can build maps as I see fit and fill them with all kinds of rubble, obstacles and whatever, albeit two-dimensional. Of course, having a whole bunch of 3d printed stuff to give a better feel of a rough battleground would be better.

My question was more in the likes of

"I'm not going to treat terrain with care, is water washable going to be brittle as fuck and shatter even if used for bigger pieces? Because if so, it is not going to be worth it for terrain either. Basically, what can I print that will not suffer (or will suffer less) water-washable resin brittleness?

>You want ABS-like resin, which can be mixed into your existing resin to make it stronger and more "bendy".
Any tip on the mixing? I don't know, I assume that since at the very least one washes with water and the other with IPA, they must be somewhat chemically different and prone to weird stuff when mixed?

>>88188322
>I assume that since at the very least one washes with water and the other with IPA, they must be somewhat chemically different and prone to weird stuff when mixed?

You will lose the ability to wash it with water, but besides that you can just pour the one into the other.

>I'm not going to treat terrain with care
Maybe you should?
Besides, you can print small plants, rocks or whatever as base decorations for your minis.

>>88188322
I've seen people recommend 4:1 mix of Elegoo ABS-like to Siyrayatech Tenacious for indestructible prints. Just measure and mix.

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anyone know where to get a decently close stl to pic related? Ive tried the usual suspects (mmf, cults, thingiverse, etc), can't seem to find anything that fits. It is possible that I'm highly retarded, and don't know what to search for, though.

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>>88124482
Bumping this since we're near the end of the thread, still no bites if somebody here needs a replacement build plate for a mars 3

>>88189331
Can I just mix beforehand and store somewhere (what’s a good container for this stuff?) or is it better to mix every resin batch from the two separate bottles every time you print?

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So I'm looking to get into 3d printing and I want to get a resin printer. I live in a 1 bedroom apartment with two cats, how should I go about ventilating the apartment so I don't give myself and my cats super aids cancer?

>>88192471
What are they meant to be? Aliens? Humunculi?

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Anyone else use the Anycubic software that came with the printer? Apparently that's all it takes, or something? I honestly have no idea of what I am doing right now because this printer was an impulse purchase.

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>>88192471
>red king
>its blue

>>88193232
i think they're supposed to be more like homunculus that look like ayys. from the book:

"Nullmen are infrequently encountered and only poorly understood. They do not fit well into any traditional category and are certainly not undead, demons, constructs, or natural animals. In terms of appearance, they are nearly featureless humanoids that shine with a slight, unearthly, grey light. There is no sign of intelligence in these creatures. They never try to communicate, and if there is any purpose to their movements, it has never been determined. Among wizards they are loathed for their complete immunity to magic."

Anyone here got a torrent of paid STLs we could pirate?

>>88193469
It's been a couple years since I've used it but from my experience the anycubic slicer is dogshit and fucked up prints for me constantly. Look into lychee and chitubox.

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Is there any way you can reuse the supports in resin printing?

>>88193469
Anycubic's software is a rebranded old version of Chitubox. Chitubox isn't great, but it's the best we have right now. Use Chitubox if it supports your printer.

>>88196727
>Use Chitubox if it supports your printer.
Looks like my printer is supported according to the website. Possibly a stupid question, but does Chitubox require an internet connection and account to use it? It wants an account to DL it, so I'm not sure if I want to bother with that when I'll be working in a shop without wired or wireless internet.

>>88196843
>internet connection and account to use it?
No and no. That said, it is Chinese software so you should block it in your firewall.

>>88197107
Thanks Anon.

Can somebody point me to some decent legion scale mandalorian STLs? The trannygram crackdown made all the groups I'm in rip out their sister group posts and the only ones I'm finding on cults are these lame """medieval""" themed mandalorians

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>>88105716
for what its worth i found the starship test print to be way better than anything else ive used.

Is there any hope for FDM prints for anything other than terrain?

I was thinking of getting one for non-TG purposes, and I've seen some pretty high-quality FDM ones that were given to me by someone else. Is it just a meme or is there any truth to non-shit FDM minis?

>>88198283
vehicles and angular lower detail models

>>88198283
Large creatures, tokens, objective markers, boxes to hold your minis. I've seen claims FDM can do adequate minis. I have yet to see proof of these claims. That said, if you want 15 vaguely-orc-shaped blobs, FDM can do it.

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Some upgrades on my Baneblade.

>>88196483
>grind them up into coarse grains and use them as basing material
>use them as greeblies for terrain and scratch builds
that's all I can think of

>>88198283
I've heard of STLs designed specifically for FDM printing that turn out OK but they will never have the level of detail that resin can do. That said, there are lots of bases, objective markers, measuring tools, dice trays, and other accessories that FDM is well suited for.

>>88127110
Did you hollow that out or print the side parts whole?

>>88162349
Unless you use some disgusting el cheapo resin, fumes aren't an issue and won't cause issues. I have been printing in my spare room consistently for 2-3 years and there has been no fume buildup. There is old linen in storage there and no fumes have transferred to you. That being said the room is well ventilated, but honestly it isn't that big a deal as some make it out to be. If I get lung cancer in future I'll retract my statement.

>>88199421
Solvent is going to smell far more then resin. That won't stop resin vapour from killing your lungs.

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>>88186914
>>88182828
>>88181173
yeah dropping the lift speed and increasing exposure fixed my issues, the small hands came out nice, also tried a slightly larger model which came out without problems

thanks for the help

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>>88198283

>I've seen claims FDM can do adequate minis. I have yet to see proof of these claims. That said, if you want 15 vaguely-orc-shaped blobs, FDM can do it.

That's bullshit, and a noprinting meme.

Of course it's going to have more zits and imperfections and visible layer lines, but once I can see individual buckles, seams on the clothes, scales, hair clumps, fingers, even the nubbings of the half-orc's tusk, I'd say that it is a "good enough" miniature to be put on a table. This shit was right off the plate with basically no cleanup, and I'm far from an autistic modder: my E3 is barely upgraded, vaguely calibrated, and I print around the holes on a torn (and shoddily leveled) mat.

Sure, you will have to get an eye for FDM-friendly minis, but it all depends on what you are going to do with them.

I, for one (printing for D&D), would never print my "fodder monsters" in resin, too many models, too much hassle, too much resin. I can print more, at a lower cost, in FDM, and then I can take them off the printer two minutes before a game, pour them by the dozens into a box for transportation without worrying they will shatter, and throw them on the battlefield in hordes.

>>88200144
God I love the additional porny sluts in AG's sets.

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>>88200196
aHR0cHM6Ly9kcml2ZS5nb29nbGUuY29tL2ZpbGUvZC8xNTRkV1RZUkZBX3NTalRRYjlVUEdFZzNKNG9XSGJFN1Qvdmlldz91c3A9c2hhcmVfbGluaw==

merry christmas then

>>88200207
Oh god, I used to know this, but please refresh my memory. What is that, NurgleSkaven? The ones I remember come out with nothing.

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Guys, i'm in the market for a Baneblade size super heavy.. Its my birthday next month, and i want to treat myself with something nice for once.

However, the GW one costs 110+€ by now, so i'm looking at 3d printed ones.
I found pic related on ebay, and its supposed to be baneblade size, but is noticeable cheaper than other tanks (even smaller ones) with 40-50€ (depending on weapon options).

Does anyone recognize the designer or has the files to confirm that this not some garbage?

Also: recommend your favourite super heavy so i can get some inspiration to what i can look for to get printed.

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>>88200694
havent seen that file before, i love 3d printing but the baneblade kit is pretty nice, if i were you i'd try and find a new on sprue one secondhand or something, if not i always thought this model was cool, never printed it myself but i plan to
https://cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/broadsword-superheavy-tank

>>88200317
decode with base64 mate, its a bunc of pinup girls from Artisan Guild that i picked from telegram

>>88200740
Oh, yeah, I forgot about Nintendo.
Thanks for the sluts.

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>>88200739
True, 2nd hand is an option to keep the eyes open for.
That Broadsword looks cool. A bit too much like a WW2 Mathilda maybe, but still something to keep in mind if i find a seller that prints it for me for a reasonable price.

Btw, i was stupid by naming my pic above. Its not Apocalyse, its Armageddon Tank.
And looking at pictures of it more closely, it seems like its printed with FDM? There is some pretty rough texture on the surfaces there, so this might be the reason for its low price.

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>pathetic coomer shit from one of the worst studios in existence
>encodes it but the tells everyone directly how to decode it because he is desperate for upvotes
and people wonder why no one shares any decent files here any more

>>88200932
needs more rivets

>>88201167
>one of the worst studios in existence
how so?

>>88202436
Just dont feed the troll

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>how so?
while they produce a lot of content, it is cartoony warcraft vidya shit that you never see being printed or painted by anyone of note. the only reason it sells is because they pander to virgins
>troll
stop crying and try having sex fatty

>>88203378
AG leans pretty hard on it, but I honestly prefer a cartoony style to overdesigned shit like Archvillain. I guess my idea of good balance is Titan Forge.

>>88203482
i would have said heroes infinite but agree on archvillian being too busy

>>88203860
i mean heroes infinite being overdesigned

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>>88077313

I've spent the last two days trying to find a model for an enclave officer so i can print and paint it for a fallout ttrpg but i havent been able to find shit. If anyone has anything even vaguely close to this look, please save my sanity and help me out :(

>>88200694
Maybe checking the mortain tank stuff? A lot of his stuff have the macarius forgeworld vibe.
https://mortian.shop

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Kek.

>>88205538
that chinese wording

>>88204049
I'd recommend looking for historical minis wearing field caps, like germans for example.
WGA have some sci-fi kits in their digital range. These guys look close enough to me, but I never placed any of the Bethesda Fallout games.
https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-death-fields-arena-security-263393

If need be you could also digitally kitbash sth closer yourself.

>>88203482
Don't feed the troll.

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>the virgin who cried troll
try touching titties tubby

I'm considering buying an Ender 3 now to print terrain, large vehicles and firearms. 3D printing is one hell of a rabbit hole.

>>88206200
>firearms
if you love your dog, don't do it. The ATF loves killing puppers.