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Work in Progress, "Awesome Conversion!" Edition

>WIP Condensed OP Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/PhETapuN

>Friendly Anon's Updated Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/gEQRRkFR

>Grimdark Compendium tutorials
https://mega.nz/folder/b8xjDCzR#_XvcaI9LnnOvTkvBa7Lzhg

>Making some awesome banners
https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2012/05/modeling-banners.html

>Recasting with Blue Stuff and LEGO bricks
https://mega.nz/#!OihwzSLR!yLIrbkeOm_zvEykMzj0HANGB1NFnT110J3GmzMW7LZQ

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ufP8ka3KGno

>Darren Latham's 20 top tips for miniature painting success
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ERXNObqeNb8

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wxWgsqSf74s

>Learn to paint with an unlicensed doctor
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3WLHZP4fB6Psqp-AHRiSbBVv21PiCxn9

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>Sculpt Viking Beards and Hair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DB3ojCR5yGs

>How to clean synthetic paintbrushes and fix hooked tips
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IcYRR3DEniU

>Weathering explained in 5 minutes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sy2g5mQAYz4&pp=ugMICgJqYRABGAE%3D [Embed]

>How to Paint Black NMM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7kteTCNuqV0

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads
>>85474081
>>85439603
>>85413999
>>85391777
>>
I built a few Cawdor Redemptionists to work as preachers and missionaries in my Sisters of Battle army. Guy with a staff isn't complete obviously. I'm gonna sand the re-made overcloak smoother and then sculpt folds on top.
>>
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Well painting some Plague Bearers trying out a different color scheme.
>>
>>85509385
Only 47 goblins and 6 trolls before I can start a new army!
>>
>>85505800
Disable any artificial sharpening. Downscale the picture to a reasonable size instead, preferably 50% or 25% scaling.
>>
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Print guy got me half my puppetswar Boyz today. They'll have optional jetpacks to make them stormboyz, and saved me more than half off retail.
>>
>>85511350
(Other half will be lootaz or flashgitz)
>>
>>85511350
man you need some ultra sonic cleaner for your 3d prints
>>
>>85511363
They don't look great but once the primer is on they are perfect. I posted some meganobz from the same company on here and they looked the same coming back from my guy. just a little ugly at first is all.
>>
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Well the hotglue base could be better but overall not bad for my first mini in almost 2 years.
>>
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Gradually getting there. Purple glaze and some small silver bits to paint, plus varnish, to finish up the torso and arms but haven't got any of that with me. Once I finish painting one of the shoulderpads I'll be out of primed pieces till I get back home.
>>
>>85511455
Yeah, I think the yellow on the base actually take away from the color gradient you have going on on the plague bearer.
I like really like the scheme though. I think you could probably get more mileage out of the effect if you put them on darker bases. Yellow feet on say a dark blue/grey rubble base for example, would really make the plague bearer stand out.
The yellow on the base seems to be the brightest part of the model now so it kind of distracts from what should (presumably) be the focus.
>>
>>85511810
I might try that, also the picture makes the goo way more bright than it is, I really need to get myself a proper camera.
>>
Would urban gray bases look boring on my black and red sisters of battle army?
>>
>>85512153
depends. How big is the contrast, is the armor red or black? Cause if you got a majority black model and you put in on grey bases that is fine. If the armor is black the grey bases need to be bright enough to have enough contrast.
>>
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So /wip/, my family got me an airbrush as a present. The way I see it, I still need a spray booth for ventilation and a mask. Especially concerning the latter, are there any pointers what to look out for or products you would recommend?
>>
I was hoping you guys could help my flesh out my idea. I painted this model over the course of my vaccation and I'm now wondering what kind of base/diorama I should make for it.
Someone suggested that I should put the model upside down since it's a bat.
I was thinking that I should do the opposite and put everything else upside down instead if you understand what I mean.
Stuff like hanging vines going upwards, lamps hanging off chains upside down, anything to show that up is down.
I'm just not entirely sure what kind of scene/environment would be best to get the point across.
I would be grateful for any ideas
>>
>>85512309
Isn't that a sack full of batlets in the back? Won't they fall out?
>>
>>85512307
>I want to use Stynlrez or other nasty-ass solvent-based primers
Get an organic-vapor (OV)-rated respirator and change filters at least once every six months.

>I want to spray acrylic paint
Get some safety glasses and a particulate mask.
>>
>>85512307
I just got a hundred dollar "portable" spray booth. I don't bother using a mask because I long for death but I'm too scared to commit sudoku.
>>85512277
Order of Our Martyred Lady so their armor is mostly black but they have plenty of red cloth around.
>>
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>>85512418
pulled this pic off of google with similar colors. Just make sure the basing is not too close to the armor and you are gonna be fine.
>>
>>85512307
I spray acrylic inks next to an open window with a fan, i'm fine. wear a mask and get a booth if your space can accomodate it, but it's not to bad as long as you have fresh air cycling.
>>
Sorry for basic bitch newb questions but what is the difference between "priming" and a "base coast"? Do I need a special primer of some kind before I actually start to paint?
Is there any major benefit to hand painting a base coat over spraying one on?
And also, is it better to do the base coat on a model before assembling it or after?

Sorry, I just painting my first model now and I already feel like I'm fucking up. I foolishly assumed a starter kit would have everything I needed to actually start.
I watched all the video links in the OP but I'm so green I feel like I'm missing some fundamentals still.
>>
Quick question - what's the Vallejo equivalent of GW Agrax Earthshade?
>>
>>85512591
Priming means you are preparing the surface of the mini to paint. Primer paints make it so the rest of your paintjob sticks to the mini well. A base coat is just the first color you put down for the paintjob.
>>
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Very rough and early foundation for some ruins Im working on, with models for scale. I just cut out the general shape of the plasticard without filing/sanding the edge or cleaning it up and still need to go over the whole thing with milliput to fill in holes/gaps that look out of place.
>>
>>85512624
Vallejo don't have an equivalent to GW washes.
>>85512591
A "primer" is the first coat you should put on a model, using a special "primer" paint. It grabs onto the plastic better than regular paint, and helps the "base coat" adhere better to the model's surface. The "base coat" is usually the first layer of paint you put on top of the primer. You can also buy a colored primer for your dudes so you can have your "base coat" and "primer" in one. I find it's always worthwhile to buy a spray primer because it just goes on much much smoother than brushed on paint.
You don't absolutely need a special primer paint though, you can just wash your model in some dishwashing liquid properly and put on your base coat once the model is dry. It will be harder to get a good coverage though. I'd recommend black, gray or your primary army color primer if you can get it. Some supermarket brand spray primers can melt plastic.
>>
>>85512591
Primer is sort of "pre-paint" that you apply to surface to help your paint attach properly (and providing uniform color under it - less opaque colors will appear differently depending on primer color). But it won't cost you much, various companies (Vallejo, AK, Green Stuff World) have excellent brush on primers. You can also use spray can ones (Vallejo base colors in spray cans actually works as primers and some shops sells them as such) but they tend to run out very fast.

Oh and if you actually screw up paintjob enough to justify starting over, isopropyl easily strips waterbased acrylics without damaging plastic.
>>
>>85512591
>Sorry for basic bitch newb questions but what is the difference between "priming" and a "base coast"?
>Do I need a special primer of some kind before I actually start to paint?
A basecoat is just a catch all term for applying one color on a surface. Might be because you want to paint that part a certain color and need this color to work from. A primer is different than a normal paint. It is usually a polyurethane based paint if it comes out of the bottle, i.e. a hard wearing varnish and if it comes out of a spray bottle is has solvents in it that make it bond better to plastic and metal to a lesser degree.
The reason you want a proper primer is to avoid paint chipping off your models during play or transport.

>Is there any major benefit to hand painting a base coat over spraying one on?
Mostly convenience. You can use the ones in a bottle in an airbrush as well. If you live in a very cold or hot climate just walking out and blasting your models with a spraycan may not be possible all year round.
>And also, is it better to do the base coat on a model before assembling it or after?
this requires a few different answers. Any paint between parts will ususally prevent the glue you use from bonding with the parts and instead just bond with the layer of paint. So if you assemble a model you want to leave at least the glue contacts unprimed/painted. Generally speaking it goes faster to assemble models first and then prime them. There are certain models that have capes or other things like that, that make it hard to paint them if they are fully assembled. So you may want to leave those in different sub assemblies for ease of painting.
>Sorry, I just painting my first model now and I already feel like I'm fucking up.
>I watched all the video links in the OP but I'm so green I feel like I'm missing some fundamentals still.
There should be a link to a couple of "how to paint" books in there that cover the basics. I would recommend reading those.
>>
>>85512624
73.200 should be their sepia wash. Vallejo has a whole bunch of different products you could use though. Vaguely similar although they behave somewhat different than GW washes.
The sepia wash would need a little black to be closer to GWs agrax thingy I think.
>>
>>85512591
I personally prefer to take the parts off the sprue, clean up the connection points and mold lines and assemble the model as far as I can before painting. What models are you starting on?
>>
>>85512591
YouTube painting stuff. That box is a good value. but you will need more. the games workshop site has a color guild for each model in your army. you can just put grey seer on with a paint brush and then whatever contrast paint or base on top of that. if you realy want to try to save time find a spray-paint that doesn't seal the details. don't use white spray-paint its always runny as fuck due to how much white pigment needs to be in it to ge tthe color.. anywyas,.dont use black either because you will loose all the detail and hate yourself. also you wont have the same shade of black and you'll have to brush paint it anyways
>>
>>85512591
>Sorry for basic bitch newb questions but what is the difference between "priming" and a "base coast"? Do I need a special primer of some kind before I actually start to paint?
Like >>85512647 said, primer preapres the surface for painting, while your basecoat is your first layer of colour. Where it can get confusing is when the same coat of paint can do both. For example, if you were painting Blood Angels Sanguinary Guard, spraying them with Retributor Armour gold paint would not only prime the models, but also give the golden parts their base coat as well.

>And also, is it better to do the base coat on a model before assembling it or after?
That's up to personal preference. I'm pretty picky about my paint jobs these days, so I build sub-assemblies, prime them, put on the base coats and even some detailing, then assemble them before putting on the finishing touches. There are just so many parts with Space Marines that have no reason to go together until the very end (heads, backpacks, and in many cases, shoulder pauldrons) that it doesn't make much sense to me to do otherwise. That stuff would just get in the way!
>>
How do the Ork Flesh and Warp Lightning contrast paints compare to the classic recipe for Ork skin?
>>
>>85512749
How about their normal wash line and "Dark Brown" color? I already have that one.
>>
>>85511744
beautiful work anon
>>
>>85512755
>What models are you starting on?
I got pic related as a gift. There's a lot of finer details and smaller scale features in more colors than something like space marines so I'm a little intimidated starting with these.
I'm fully committed to ruining half the batch for practice before expanding to something else though.
>>
Speaking about primers - how good are AK brush on primers? Compared to Vallejo, for example?
>>
>>85512939
sure
>>
>>85513196
The neat thing about models like Wyches is that they typically carry a small weapon in each hand, as opposed to many shootier models like Space Marines or Imperial Guardsmen who normally bear longarms across their bodies, making it challenging to paint detail on the chest without leaving the arms off until later stages.
>>
>>85511143
Thanks anon, that makes perfect sense.
>>
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I seriously don't know how the fuck richard gray got his yriel yellow to come out like this on the first coat. I'm having so much trouble with it even coming out of the airbrush smoothly for some reason, clogs like nothing else even with a 1:3 paint thinner ratio. Is it my thinner? I'm using vallejo's airbrush thinner and a few drops of flow improver.

Sorry for the fucking psychotic post, just so frustrating.
>>
>>85513942
what really helped me with clogging was always keeping the air going what adjust is just the amount of paint the air is always on full blast.
Also never stop the air before you stop the paint that leads to clogging.
>>
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Posting again fishing for suggestions or critiques on the Earth Caste Enginner and his Gue'vesa.

>>85509634 #
I getcha reg the helmets looking a bit goofy. Space Balls die come to mind making them, hoping it'll pull through when it's painted.
>>
>>85514066
The Gue'vesa helmets amuse me. I like them, they have some soul to them.
>>
Boring Legion, but I think I did a pretty good job on the face.
>>
>>85512591
A model kit is like a 3 dimensional canvas. Not all surfaces are suitable for paint to settle on. Priming is the process of creating a barrier between the canvas and the paint of a painting. A primer preps the painting surface and seals any stains so that the paint adheres well, and you’ll get the smoothest, cleanest finish possible.
>>
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I think my sand batch's grit is too fine. It doesn't produce that textured effect that most sand+pva bases are supposed to make when drybrushed. Instead I get this almost "texture paste like" effect.
Would mixing some woodland scenics fine ballast help fix that or are the grains jus not varied enough to produce the effects similar to the GW sand basing tutorial video?
>>
>>85513942
I believe he uses tamiya x-20a if that helps
but, yes, very thin yellow and white
I'd try the leviathan method with the contrast imperial fists yellow
probably a lot less hassle
>>
>>85513217
>how good are AK brush on primers
Their grey surface primer is actually just fine for brush on application. Naturally though there may be some transparency, but I think as long as the area is covered it should be fine.
Ignore the white surface primer for brush on application.
>>85514893
Try pressing the base deeper to almost the bottom of the container of sand. Chances are the larger sand grains have sunk down there.
>>
>>85514893
It's likely that your sand doesn't have enough variance in size, but just mixing in larger grains might not solve your problems since sand likes to settle with the smallest grains filtering up to the top.
Personally, i find the manual approach to be best: adding on a little of the largest grit sand first, and adding more and more of each size as I work my way down to the finest grit which eventually just gets dumped on top.
That said, I don't remember how I ended up getting tubs of different sized grit, but at some point I ended up with 4 different tubs of Gale Force Nine basing material.
>>
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With the 4 other corvettes done this will be the extend of my covenant ships.
Press F for Spartan Games.
>>
I feel like I fucked up my first minis by trying dry brush zenithal.
>>
Hey, I've been looking for a specific old GW tutorial I used to have the pdf of. It was a terrain tutorial showing a full city themed board being built. I remember there was a fountain that used an old monopose marine as a statue. Does anyone here have the pdf?
>>
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Wrapping up Commander Farsight.
>>
>>85514893
>Try pressing the base deeper to almost the bottom of the container of sand. Chances are the larger sand grains have sunk down there.
The sand I got was "colour forge" fine sand I picked it up as a little extra thing from Manticgames as I didn't have sand and decided to give it a go. The sand grains are pretty uniform, but I didn't even get a finish close to something like: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceD_g9bn2CM I'll try his thing where he leaves the base in the sand for a couple of seconds. If I can scrap off the basing to start again.
>>85515482
>I ended up with 4 different tubs of Gale Force Nine basing material
Besides the fine grit what other grits did you have? I might be able to mix them together. Not that I am going to contaminate my main batch. The grit looks good enough for 6mm miniatures, but in all truthfulness I'm thinking of just trying Vallejo texture paste instead. I doubt mixing the sand I have with texture paste will create any effects.
>>
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>>85515931
Rocky/Medium/Fine, with an old tub of GW sand filling in for ultra fine. Looks like the GF9 tubs came from an "Urban Rubble" basing kit.
I think you could probably get away with adding the Medium grit to your basing materials if you only want to buy one tub.
>>
>>85516098
>I think you could probably get away with adding the Medium grit to your basing materials if you only want to buy one tub.
How does the medium grit look like on it's own as a basing material?
And what are the two bottom tubs? They look almost like they would get the basing effect I want straight out of the pot.
>>
>>85509385
>i hate painting and am terrible at it
>cant do the whole sketch an outline and fill it in thing for freehand shapes
whats the best way to make checker/teef/diamond patterns stencils for my ork goffs, and future 3d printed harlequins?
paper? bits of plastic sprue?
i tried cutting bits of sponge into square shapes and stippling it, but it was terrible
>>
>>85516150
Check your LGS. I think AP brown battleground or as you mentioned before Woodland scenics fine ballast might be enough to give the sand some more texture. You should also make sure you have a container for your mix. If a dollar store is near you it might have plastic containers.
>>
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>>85516150
Sorry anon, I should have been clearer with my photo. The bottom right is GF9 Fine, and the bottom left is an old, old GW Sand tub. no idea if GW's current basing products are the same, but for me that tub fills the need for ultra fine sand.
I don't have any minis done with just one grit size, so for a set of references I've taken a junk Hormagaunt on a 25mm base and placed some of the grit over top as a size reference:
>>
>>85516495
I'll check and see if that works.
>>85516691
Thank you, anon. This is very helpful. I'll check AP's brown battleground from the LGS as >>85516495 said. I do think some medium grit might help, and see if that works out. If not then I'm gonna use texture paste for basing my miniatures. Thankfully sand bases are pretty easy to take off the bases. PVA leaves a kind of "film" that if I can carefully cut to with a knife can allow the rest to just be peeled off.
>>
>>85513942
What airbrush? My $400 steenbeck will clog if you look at it wrong but my $70 sotar could probably spray mud and keep going
>>
>>85517077
Iwata Neo CN
>>
>>85517077
I'm glad it isn't just me. I genuinely regret buying a $300 steenbeck because its a massive pain in the ass compared to my 50 dollar shit airbrush.
>>
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>>85514197
They can cycle into battle too
>>
>>85512685
Looks great, really like that it's the gothic detail but still is a mostly solid wall.
>>
>>85515860
You can still save them anon, using a oil wash approach you can darken the shadows.
>>
>>85512307
I have a 38w aircom filter and an industrial PPE mask with replaceable filters. It's a good combo. I especially love the aircom, best purchase ever. It has double filter and needs no outlet to go outdoors.
>>
I've been told to ask here from /40kg/
Does anybody here use AK texture paste?
I'm interested in Dark Earth, but the LGS is out of that. So asphalt looks interesting, but I feel that it's different beyond being black compared to brown such as in textured finish.
And are there any catches to texture paste be it Citadel, Vallejo or AK when the paste may need to be stirred or anything like that?
>>
I've got a few marines that are primed with Retributor Armour. The thing is, I'm planning to paint them as BT.
Should I be worried when applying black paint over metallic gold or it'll be fine?
>>
>>85512380
>batlets
To quote old obscure internet lore:
>if a baby cat is a kitten, a baby bat is a bitten.
>>
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Orlock backpack edition
>>
>>85514893
>>85515482
>>85515931
>>85516098
>>85516691
>conversation about sand
Different anon here. I remember that bird sand is what was often used for basing back in ye old days of GW. But when I google bird sand in North America it seems to always be perches as results from Google.
Is there some kind of England English vs North American English going on like how Americans call chips fries? If so then what is bird sand called here in North America?

I regret buying Citadel Stirland mud when getting into the hobby and I really want to make sure that when I buy a big pounder of sand that it is the right grit with the right variance when I use the stuff because outside of the hobby I will have no use for it.
>>
>>85518433
I haven't used the AK stuff but if they're similar in naming to the Vallejo ones, the asphalt one (assuming it's like Vallejo black lava) probably has slightly larger particles.
>>
>>85515860
I used to do that method. Now I just prime light grey or white. You'll be fine, just thin your paints and block in all your base colors with 2-3 coats giving plenty of drying time. The shadows should still darken the base coats and the whites will still accent your highlights. Just keep the coats thin and choose your colors wisely.
>>
>>85512309
I was going to say a tree branch but I think you might need a bigger base to convey that idea.

>>85512380
Baby bats have a firm grip allowing them to cling onto their mother, maybe they're doing it to the bag?
>>
>>85513942
Richard Grey got it to come out like that because he's Richard Motherfucking Grey, and the reality of GW paints seems to warp around him.
>>
>>85513942
set the airpressure correctly for your setup.
>>
>>85518707
love the backpacks, very stylised despite looking heavy and cumbersome as fuck
>>
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>>85518086
All jokes aside I might steal those helmet colours...
>>
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>>85515872
yes, it's in the OP troves. Look for the old Citadel guides, then in the White Dwarf articles section.

>>85516182
>whats the best way to make checker/teef/diamond patterns stencils for my ork goffs, and future 3d printed harlequins?
Cut Post-it notes into an airbrush frisket mask and go to town. The adhesive keeps paint from infiltrating until it's dry.
Alternately, practice by laying down a couple coats of paint on a sheet of paper and practice draping out the shapes with a Micron Pen. With Microns if you press too hard or work on top of wet paint the tip jams, but with a light touch it's just like scribbling on the mini and you can get surprisingly fat work from a skinny pen.
>>
>>85515904
damn that sword is looking fresh
>>
>>85518718
There is no proper bird sand available in the US/Canada like the bird sand produced and sold in the UK. Believe me as I have looked and desperately want to be proven wrong. Just get a paste or tile grout and be done with bro.
>>
>>85518718
Wheretf do you live? at my last place I could go to the beach, here I can go to the earthworks and get some builders sand, even in the city there are parks and shit
>>
>sand again
Oh no you'll summon sand anon
>>85519358
NTA but I strolled onto a volleyball court while people were playing and just scooped up a shit ton in a Gatorade bottle I found laying around the house. Quick wash with some warm water and a prolonged toasting in the oven to kill the nasties and I'm set for life. I'm confused as to how people can struggle to get sand when it's that easy
>>
>>85519505
>sand anon
What an unlucky anon.
>NTA but I strolled onto a volleyball court while people were playing and just scooped up a shit ton in a Gatorade bottle I found laying around the house.
There's a nature walk I can drive to. I might be able to pick some up. Hopefully during the inevitable upcoming winter there will be less people to witness my autism.
>prolonged toasting in the oven to kill the nasties
What were your oven settings and how long did they bake in there?
>>
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Working on a IJNLF for my back of beyond Japs.
>>
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>>85519750
Chugging along. Have a few others to do. He'll be the leader for my FFoL squad.
>>
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Vanguard veteran kitbashes done.
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>>85520530
And a shouty skullfaced guy to follow them around.
>>
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15 internets to whoever can say identify this
(I just hope it reads as what I intended, first time free handing)
>>
>>85520590
starry night?
>>
>>85520590
Windows xp
>>
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>>85520758
Yaaay, we have a winner.
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>>85514066
Love it. Are they being played as anything specific?
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Doom whell alternative coming through.
>>
Range 4 tool for marvel.
Obviously tried to make it look like a lightning bolt but to me it reads like a river.
>>
>>85516182
You can get checker board transfers if you can't be bothered at all. The old GW transfers had them and you can get sheets with just that from fighting piranha games for battletech. There are probably more options.

If you have trouble doing the grid with a brush you can also just do it with a pencil before you fill it in. Alternately you could also just a micropen. Just paint a white band and then fill in the black square like that.
>>
How do you guys strip paint from minis? like what do you use?
>>
>>85516150
>And what are the two bottom tubs? They look almost like they would get the basing effect I want straight out of the pot.
>>85516691
that "sand" is nutshell granulate btw. You can get that in giant sacks for little money as well.
>>
>>85522747
50% Mr clean mixed with 50% water for an overnight soak, heavy duty stuff goes in the ultra Sonic cleaner with the same solution.
>>
I am new at painting. I have a bunch of skeletons I want to paint. Do I first spray them black or white? What's easier to paint over with the bone color afterwards? Sorry for the dumb question.
>>
>>85522747
I use Isopropyl Alcohol and several Q-tips
>>
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>>85523279
I used iso 91% for this. It got through a bunch, but I need something more heavy duty.
>>85523244
I don't have a sonic cleaner, but I'll try the mr. Clean and water.
>>
>>85522731
Just use black to make the bolt more jagged and sharp anon, just angular in general. I like the effect tho.
>>
>>85523248
Depends on the techniques you want to use.
If you want to wash them, start light, if you want to drybrush them, start dark.
>>
>>85523503
I usually just paint a simple tabletop quality. I wash everything like a shameless madman
>>
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It's so hot today, the paint instantly dries on my brush and to the pallette... Well I'll continue tomorrow.
>>
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>>85523332
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7fpLeIugBKo AK Iiteractive paint stripper looks pretty good, but all of my minis that i need to strip are in jars of dettol or soapy water (they've been in there for a year and im procrastinating too much to get them out)
>>
>>85515860
Second coat with a smaller drybrush helped to lessen the worries I had.
>>
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Getting there with this very yellow man, still need to get the sword done and finish the base but I have enjoyed it.
>>
>>85524405
Where'd you get those from? I want a little Rick Dias now
>>
>>85524588
Look up Gundam Artifact. There's two series of 5 suits so far.
>>
>>85514286
>fake "legion"
Fixed that for you. Nevertheless, you painted him well.
>>
>>85522747

30-60min bath in car synthetic brake fluid. Then, I use an old toothbrush and toothpick for details.

Works great with plastic and probably with metal, though better options are available for metal. Don't use this on finecast though.
>>
>>85517077
>>85518002
What needle sizes do the brushes have?
>>
So far I've only got GW minis and have noticed that gaps when assembling are pretty common. Is this common for all brands or are GW especially shit with this?
>>
>>85526128

Common for GW, especially with old models. That's why you're buying Green Stuff. New models don't suffer that problem as much but it still happens from time to time.
>>
>>85519247
Maybe I'm retarded but I absolutely cannot find the old white dwarf articles. I've looked through every link in the stickies.
>>
Working on some scenic details to go around a blood bowl pitch
>>
Hay is there any good third party minis or conventions for pic related? I want to get in to AoS and bring my main man but thats such an ugly mini and lord knows it’s probably expensive on ebay.
>>
>>85526128
It's common for figures and for hand sculpted garbage. C(h)AD kino doesn't have such problems.
>>
>>85527003
You could try using an elf and slap chaos chicken bling on him. Black guards/executioners or swordmasters would work best.
>>
>>85527057
Damn, i never relised how chaos the DElfs look.
>>
>>85527003
closest thing I can think off
>>
>>85526993
Beautiful!
>>
>>85515300
fucking maddening how this was the actual answer. I've never got a yellow so quick in my life and it flows like water
>>85513942
>>
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>>85527272
Checked and thank you, the mushrooms will end up something like this, although this numerous batch will be more plain in colouration.
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>>85527234
...Delfs ARE Chaos.
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>>85527400
>>85526993
man that's cool
>>
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My current WIP, took some marking inspiration and colour from the F-86 Sabre.
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done with this one. I decided against the warpaint. Didn't want to fuck up.
>>
>>85527762
tip for the streaking: do it similarly to dry brushing

you need to fix the brown squiggly streak
>>
>>85527969
Thanks for the tip, what would you suggest to use for dry brushing in the sort of effect on the wings?
>>
5 range tool for marvel, now time for the movement tools.
>>
>>85528468
how is MCP? i have been mildly interested in getting it and i think i could get anyone to play capeshit with me then convince them to do other stuff
>>
>>85528613
It’s easy to learn since they designed it for comic book readers to play instead of wargaming grognards like us. The core set contains everything you’d need to start and it comes with 5 avengers and villains so if they want to play either of those teams they’re already set.
It can also onboard them into painting since comic book characters are like 3 colors and don’t have a marine captain’s level of details.
Biggest turn off is every 1-2 minis is $25-$40 so it’s like buying a GW character every time.
>>
>>85527954
>THE haircut
>>
>>85527486
They aren't. Stop smoking gigagrog crack.
>>
I hate the squighog models. Do any of you know any alternative models that look similar to this? I've scoured the whole god damned internet looking for some
>>
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Making some Nurgle Karnivore conversions using some Warglaive frames mixed with chaos knight 3d printed armor pieces
>>
>>85528800
>Society is full of Cults of Pleasure
>Summon Daemons when it suits them
>Malekith made a pact with a Greater Daemon of Slaanesh
>Etc...
Walk like a duck, talk like a duck, get called a duck.
>>
>>85514286
that dude looks so metal it makes me want to assemble my chaos.

also anyone else have an addiction to collecting and not building? im so backlogged i never knew it was a real thing
>>
>>85509385
HOW IN THE FUCK DO PEOPLE GET THE COLORS SO PRECISE AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH
>>
>>85531151
fine motor control is a matter of practice. Much like weight lifting, learning to dance or trying to get rid of an accent it's a physical skill that requires you to move muscles in a way your body is not yet adapted to. Just takes time and practice.
>>
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Been having fun on a new chaos project.
>>
>>85529977

Neat, I like the gritty green effect on the top of the armor, as well as the red gems.

I like the looks, but it might be a bit too clean for Nurgle. Maybe it's what you were looking for ?
>>
https://www.amazon.com/Evemodel-Plastic-1-57inch-Miniatures-Wargames/dp/B08CB5LG11/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
This or Green Stuff World's?
>>
How absolutely screwed am I attempting to paint this if I'm an amateur
>>
>>85531401
Good sword
>>
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>>85531713
Should be fine just remember do not plaster you mini in primer, remember to thin your paints and use two thin coats of paint for good coverage.
If you are able to paint the mini like that cleanly and use some washes and maybe highlights your standard should be better than 90%.
>>
>>85531999
It's well painted but as a useful weapon its shit. No sharpness and it will bend around anything hard it hits. Only thing it's good for is quenching in someones guts.
>>
>>85527954
That leather is seriously amazing, it looks real, good job. I don't blame you for skipping the warpaing when you got the skin so smooth. I'd even be nervous giving her a splatter of blood.
>>
>>85527630
Guardians of the Fat free milk and carrots
>>
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>>85532004
I have a steady hand so it'll look clean, but I dont have experience doing these parts. Is it just glazes to build up the transition? It looks almost 'grainy' like it was spray painted instead of hand painted.
>>
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Trying to make paint look more worn down, have its paint layers peel off and as if it's peeling in some places. I have been trying to follow reference images, but I feel like I'm stuck.

What else should I do to capture that, or should I instead just add more rust blooms on the inner part of the panel?
>>
>>85512380
Nah, they're bats, it's their job to not fall
>>85518755
A tree branch with a fruit hanging off it strikes me as the best way to do it. Or maybe a swing?
>>
I haven't painted in years and I'm getting back into it with what I believe are some of the hardest colours to do right: red and ivory.

Any tips? Primed white but it just doesn't seem to be working out.
>>
>>85532163
That or a lamp post.
>>
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>>85512307
It completely depends on what you are doing with it, if any of that is necessary. If you are painting a single space marine, and are focusing on learning the fancy ways to blend your highlights you can do on ez mode? You just want a cardboard box or something to catch your overspray, as the total number of DROPS of paint/ink you will be using is like... 5-6, and you will be going slow enough that there is very little chance you will inhale any, especially if doing this next to an open window.

Priming a whole army, or using enamels or something much more dangerous than acrylics? You are going to want an R95 respirator, and so much paint is going to be in the air that unless you want your surroundings to be eventually coated in a fine paint dust of whatever color primer you use you are going to want a spray booth.
>>
>>85532089
That's not spray painted. That's the quality of your picture.
You can do it with glazing, but carefully paint the dark part worst and then glaze out the transition. Or have the dark part be your basecoat and work your way up to the lighter color (in many thin coats)
>>
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>>85532089
nayrt, but I think those are just the result of whatever colour adjustments were made when the pic was edited, the older promo pics from when it was still square-based look much smoother
>>
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Fuck, fellas I just noticed the mouldline.
>>
>>85532455
you can still scrape it off carefully and paint over it.
>>
>>85515860
There's a gundam miniature game?
>>
>>85532658
NTA but they're just candy toy kits, they're a massive pain in the ass to put together(the first wave at least) but they're really nicely detailed and fun to paint. My LGS carries them for like $5.
>>
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God I love this model

Still got a fair bit left to do as he's currently doing an abbadon cosplay
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>>85532089
What the hell are you doing with your thumbnail Tzeentch
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here to purge the GW fanboys
>>
>>85532842
Looks nice anon, i like how subtle your NMM is.
>>
>>85530416
>Atharti, the cults are Order ones
>they don't
>he didn't, he bound and broke N'Kari
>>
>>85532842
Cool mini, I wish it wasn't so pricey
>>
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>>85522747
>How do you guys strip paint from minis? like what do you use?
#1 option: LA's Totally Awesome. US only, basically a mix of super powerful detergent and a little lye. It's cheap as fuck and it RAPES most urethane varnishes or acrylics. Has difficulty with latexes and can react weirdly with oils. This is my go-to. I typically get ~95% of the paint off a mini with this and the remainder is significantly softened.

#2: 99% isopropyl alcohol. Can attack cheap phenolic and ester resins, usually leaves urethane alone. Struggles to take off the more aggressive primers. Works extremely quickly compared to some of the other stuff. Safe on metal and plastic. Strip percentage is ~90% on a heavy prime job.

#3: Acetone. Will destroy plastics and many resins. Completely and irrevocably. Extremely fast, ~99% strip. Will leave behind some color on a stripped model; this is the acetone moving the pigment into the etch from the primer. Leaves a smooth surface with perfect detail. More importantly, will break up latex and enamel paints, so you need to use it for stuff like Hot Wheels and some of the terrible rubber pre-paints.
>>
>>85522747
91%-99% isopropyl works just fine for me, I use a spare electric toothbrush to scrub the surface.
>>
>>85532842
Thin your highlights
>>
>>85532842
Very nice, anon.
>>
>>85532842
It's called 'edge highlighting' becuase you highlight with the edge of your brush, not the edge of your paint pot.
>>
>>85532842
That looks great Anon, I also love all the screeching mad 40kids responding to you.
>>
>>85532842
i really like that sword anon
i think blue or red would've looked better for the robe color but that's just me
>>
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>>85532146
Fuck it. Gonna cover this wackjob with tags.

Anyone want anything scrawled and partially-coated in rust orange by the end of it?
>>
>>85533659
Litrially nobody gives a fuck, that's why we don't comment on your stuff. It's not a cool mini. It's not a cool paint job. Stop trying so hard to be wacky.
>>
>>85533744
Jesus anon, who shit in your cereal this morning?
>>
>>85533744
bruh, this is WIP, everyone here is learning.

>>85533659
it looks nothing like i suggested the other day but thats fine you tried something you hadnt done before which is progress. it looks more like a bunch of failed grafiti than old paint chipping. putting some actual grafiti on there like you have makes it look like some hive world gangers tank which kinda works.
have fun with your other models
>>
>>85533744
post models
>>
>>85533744
>It's not a cool mini
It's a handmade Basilisk made of melted sprue. Make that what you will.
>It's not a cool paint job
Oh, I'm sorry, I thought this was /wip/, not /GoldenDemon/.

>>85533811
Hell, I tried some of that on the edges but it looks like it didn't show up right (maybe it's the rust overtaking everything, maybe the metallics aren't showing up properly in the photo) but I'll keep trying.

And yeah, I'll keep researching to see what works, maybe give it another start-over. Won't be exactly the same thing, but every day is a school day.
>>
>>85520530
These look pretty slick. What did you use for rust?
Doesn't look like typhus corrosion, agrax earthshade or a thinned paint afaik.
>>
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>>85533978
This stuff. It's pricy but the finish is really great, worth it in my opinion. Reactivates with water too so you can pull it back if you overdo it, feather it out, etc.
>>
>>85534116
check out modern masters paints, they have some really good effects paint that isnt as pricy and comes in larger amounts
>>
>>85534116
Thanks for the reply. Appreciate it. I love rust and have a couple of different products, But the way this looks especially on the middle shield of your earlier post was obviously a different product.
>>
>>85534367
Worth noting it's not just the rust effects at work here, it's also oil washes. And a little dry pigment here and there. My weathering process is a bit haphazard so hard to say what specific process achieved which specific effect.
>>
>>85523745
get yourself a wet palette or craft one
Some wet dishcloth and a papertowel or ovenbaking paper on top of it will do in a hurry.
>>
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>>85533811
>>85533659
I've flipped to the other side, which had many layers of paint on top because I wanted to try out something with weathering too.

Find out paint blends too well to slough off layers too easily using IPA, and they get ground back into the Primer layer. All that's in orange is Primer covered by a layer or three of Amaranth Red from Vallejo to try a rust layer on the topmost.

Not sure if I should've used the sunken parts of the panel, instead of the raised parts. But we're here now.
>>
>>85533744
I care. You are a huge faggot and I hope your face gets raped. I think it's a cool mini and a cool paintjob. Cope and seethe.

>>85533659
I think this is the best way to bring the theme together. As the other anon said the background paint just looks like sides went wild with spraycans.
>>
>>85535092
If you want it to be rusty you need more variation in the rust color. Browns, darker oranges, reds, and yellows. Also more grit. You have typhus corrosion?
>>
>>85519764
>>85519750
Vegeta! You cut your hair!
>>
>>85531401
Cool csm, anon. What's their story?
>>
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>>85535092
You need to study some source material Anon! Look up rusty cars, tanks, and construction equipment!
>>
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Wip on the lantern Armor Knight.
Eyes are still extremely tricky. Had to do them three times until I was too exhausted.
>>
>>85521636
Just as objectives for an upcoming campaign to go with the injured Firewarriors and Pilot pictured, but I'm tempted to make a full squad of Gue'vesa if the helmets work out.

The Auxiliary aspect of the Tau a big draw and prime for good conversions.
>>
>>85535447
you've gone too purple on the thigh
>>
>>85535092
It looks like youre trying to do your weather effects as line art. Tbh it doesn't seem like you're anywhere close to the skill level required to pull that off well. This is an acceptable time to pull out drybrushes and washes.
>>
>>85535484
Yeah, I saw it too after I took the pictures. Might glaze over it with the midtone again.
>>
>>85535484
Anon just painted bruising to tell the story of her getting her front door smashed in
>>
>>85535448
>injured Firewarriors
They've killed Fritz!
>>
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Finished a 1/3000 Córdoba to use in my Spelljammer/SWN campaigns
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>>85535811
Opposite view
>>
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>>85535811
>>85535819
Those are incredibly sexy!
>>
>been back to painting for a couple of years
>initially bought some Ammo of Mig acrylics
>use their gun metal ever since
>empty now

I dont paint a lot, so this is the first actual paint that i manage to empty. Washes dont count, as i used quite a lot of them for bigger tanks etc.
And childhood/teenage time hexagonal gw pots dont count, as they just dried in back in the day.

Recommend me a good gunmetal. Brand does not matter. Just tell me about your favorite dark metallic paint.
>>
>>85535811
>>85535819
These are stupid cool Anon, I love them!
>>
>>85535811
Who makes these models?
>>
>>85535899
I have a preference for duralumminum by vallejo metal color with a drop of black paint in it. gives a great gunmetal base and lets you highlight with hue and shine as the paints are so ridiculously reflective compared to other metalics.
>>
>>85535974
The Córdoba is from hasegawa and the smaller Andromeda is a bandai kit
>>
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Necromunda terrain things done.
>>
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>>85536277
>>
>>85529977
I like how the Nurgle sigil is just some mold/fungal growth.
>>
>>85512591
I find it works best to assemble the mini. Then hit the whole thing with some darker primer. Then I’ll let it dry, hit it from the top with a lighter primer so I have a good idea about where light is going to fall. Then I’ll disassemble the few bits of the mini that are in the way so I can easily get to everything, typically just the arms for example. The nice thing about GW minis is that you don’t really need glue to hold them together. But take everything I say with a grain of salt, I’m still kinda new to this so there might be a much better way

Side question, anyone have tips for doing long thin lines. There’s a white trim around the bottom of this guys robe and I’ve been having trouble getting a crisp coat of white on there. I’ve tried using the side of the brush and that works a little better but still not very crisp. Is it just practice?
>>
>>85532455
hardly your only problem, tf happened here?
>>
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Well, I know these are always amusing to you guys so here is the WIP for my first ever model.

I had some nice solid red armor and I got too ambitious trying to highlight it with white.
The white looked a whole lot more subtle while it was still wet. And I was encouraged because I thought the black shadowing I did on the face turned out pretty alright for how incredibly small the detail is.
Think I'll probably base it red again and try highlighting either with a wash or just mixing the same red with some white or black since my pallet options are limited.
>>
>>85536652
>mixing the same red with some white
To highlight red, mix red with yellow; that makes orange. If you mix red with white you get pink, which is probably not what you're looking for - not even with Panzees!
>>
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>>85536756
Highlighting red with pink is correct, the trouble is to stop it from reading entirely pink.
>>85536652
Glaze red over the highlights until you get them looking how you want.
>>
>>85536756
Thanks for the tip!
I'm this >>85512591
Anon so thankfully that's among my current selection to work with.
>>
>>85536489
You can take your mini into a dark room like a closet or wait until night, then take a picture of it with a harsh light directly overhead to get an idea of where shadows and lights should go
>>
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Never batch painting so many models at the same time again.
>>
>>85537930
I always tell myself that but then when it's done and you have 20 more guys ready for table top it feels amazing.
>>
>>85538021

Yeah, when the starts to dry it does feel good (I still need to put a second coat of pva glue on the sand though). These are lovely models, but man the realistic proportions felt brittle after handling gw models.
>>
>>85537930
batch painting is the best though anon
you get all your paint you need out, put on some music or podcast or something, then zone out
and after you're done you can look at all your gorgeous handiwork
i hate painting one mini or heroes because i have to get all my supplies out for one thing, then i finish it and have to put everything away, and i may have a little left over paint and i feel bad
>>
>>85538131

Yes, but based on my experience, 10 to 20 models at time is less daunting.
>>
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>>85537930
Oh boy, I know what thats like
>painting for War of the Roses
I dont want to just do team colors, but goddamn. Blue bow guy pisses me off, I might remove it.
>>
>>85532842
Very nice anon, when you finish the base post it here again id love to see it.
>>
>>85537930
This is why I prefer elite armies. Hordes can be fun but Im a slow painter.
>>
>>85538236
I like him, it's like he didn't get the memo and is probably a little embarrassed.
>>
Best method for making banners at Warhammer scale? Intending to do a decent amount of freehand on them.
>>
Take an aluminium can and cut the shape out of it, flatten it with some books, base coat it and then paint whatever on it.
>>
>>85539112
>>85539076
Make that a tube like pic related.
>>
>>85532710
I started building Nightingale in the background and I'm dreading the shoulder funnels already.
>>
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>>85539076
I like to do them in paper, if you want them to have a shape you can then soak them in a mix of water and pva and shape them, they'll solidify however you position them. Tomato paste tube aluminum is also popular but I can't speak to it.
>>
>>85536585
Curse of the brap midget
>>
>>85533659
Does it have to be lore friendly or can we do memes?

>>85533744
Contribute or fuck off.
>>
>>85540210
Stop whiteknighting for the retard, his sprue and cardboard trash is hideous even for proxy terrain.
>>
>>85540252
Well he's certainly accomplished his goal of triggering autists.

>>85533659
Give it a dickbutt.
>>
>>85540252
>Contribute or fuck off.
>>
>>85540252
>proxy
>terrain
HOLY paypig.
>>
>>85540252
stop being mad about things that are WIP
>>
>>85540379
I'm pro homemade terrain, but that abominable thing is definitely not something you'd build for your own gaming board.
>>85540407
Calling out that crude and unsalvageable piece of junk is not "being mad". The fucking gay ass moronic faggot couldn't even find any papercraft templates, and those things are fucking free. He deserves spit and my boot in his face for parading his shit around, not praise and encouragement.
>>
>>85536652
Wych number 2 turned out a little bit better than the first one. Think I'm getting the thinning down a bit better now.
Tried to mix up a flesh tone out of Bugman's Glow and Corax White and now it looks almost too natural for a Dark Eldar.

Might try a wash or a glaze like the other anon suggested next and see how well the shading takes.
>>
>>85540493
you very much are angry though, and theres no excuse for it. you just want to shitpost
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>>85540493
>He deserves spit and my boot in his face for parading his shit around
200% mad

>not praise and encouragement.
Literally no one is doing this.
>>
>>85540681
>>85540715
I'm angry about your plebbit enabler attitude to shit, not the shit itself. Stop giving garbage a fake positive reception, it won't encourage anyone, only enable utter shit and insult real hobbyists who are trying their real best and producing good models.
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>>85540818
the is wip dude, you are meant to help people get better not pretend to gatekeep. you are way too angry to be modelling
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>>85540863
Yes, and telling him to cut it out with his paper turd is the first step of helping him with modelling. He must drop it before moving to something proper.
>>
First 28mm painted start to finish in what I think is a decade (and I was a kid doing even worse job back then). I spend way too many hours over them and the result is... passable - I don't know if contrasts are worth the hassle desu.

Any obvious advice?
>>
>>85540818
> anon wanted advice
> somehow this is plebbit enabling
> everything I don't like is plebbit
Take your fucking meds, you schizo.
>>
>>85540913
The only advice he really needs to set him on the right path is to stop fooling around, throw that thing in the bin and spend his time and paint on something worthwhile.
>>
>>85540889
Those look pretty well for contrast jobs, well done.
>>
>>85534323
I don't think there's really anything on the market that compares to dirty down rust, it's sorcery in a bottle. Most rust paints i've used really need a mix of techniques to get a good result, dirty down you can just slap on and call it a day.
>>
>>85540889
I like how green they are.
>>
Continuing Strider Princess. Did a little wet sanding on the thigh with a makeshift sander to smooth out some of the bumps. Looks like I missed one though.

>>85535447
I cant wait to paint mind, but I can already see the handle snapped off on mine. Did you get the photoresin or death grey version?
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>>85536292
cozy
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>>85541249
cute femLink
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I have burnt myself doing these fuckers without sub assembly or an air brush. I am probably 12 hours in on painting this guy, I still have final highlights, details (cables, lenses, etc), 6 arm weapons, and two pintle weapons to finish. And I am not really even happy with the result.
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>>85541329
KD actually already did a fem link lol
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>>85540818
Seething faggot. Scrapbuild guard guy is based.
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>>85540818
God fucking end your miserable existence.
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>>85540940
My advice? Bin yourself loser.
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i just hopped back into painting with the start collecting box for slaves to darkness what do you guys thing?
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>>85541815
Being that you are engaging in incredibly tired rhetoric already, I'm sure you'll claim shop, but whatever.
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>>85533414
the autist salt powers his prayers
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>>85536814
>Highlighting red with pink
doesn't look good on anything but cloth. The real trick with red is getting that perfect glazed first coat over white and deepening the shadows with purple, brown or a heavier red shade.
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>>85541063
How do you seal it?
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I feel like I have been painting Ghazghkull forever and yet I still have some twenty odd steps I want to do.
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>>85540863
Since when? /wip/ has always been a place of elitism and criticizing every missed detail and poor brushstroke.
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>>85516691
ya'll niggas buying five different sands for ten dollars an ounce when a scoop of dried dirt from the back yard is literally free.
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>>85541249
Did you get this second hand? I can't seem to find it on the store.
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>>85542276
low effort.
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>>85542299
No, I bought her on release. Had her and many others assembled and primered for years. But this year I've decided I've going to clear out some of of them out.
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>>85542276
say, do you happen to have a pic of some bases you've made using plain old dirt like that? I'm curious to see what it looks like
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>>85542341
Damn, there were a lot of limited runs, I hope they do a reprint.
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>>85535329
The whole thing is meant to be made of rusty metal or scrap picked up by the builders. So, the whole mess of it is meant to be from everything.

>>85535208
The image was made early in the morning and I planned to do more rust-up colours.
>picrel, pre-colour
No, I don't have Typhus, but I should at some point.

>>85535182
Yeah, probably for the best; Make much of it semi-rusted or filled with welds, cover in paint and then double-up with graffiti.
>>
>>85540210
>Lore-friendly or memes
Both are fine. I was told that I should've done a Cool S and a Kilroy. Maybe a Cadia Stands, or a Necromunda Gang symbol.

Definitely should throw some Ork signs on there for extra meme.

>>85540261
Yes.
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>>85542220
Matte varnish through an airbrush does okay. But unless you're worried about your minis getting wet there's no real need to seal it, it's fairly robust.
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>>85542406
>Anons offer advice
>"It..It's meant to look like this.."

It looks bad anon.
Rust the whole thing, varnish, then actually spend the time building up and chipping layers of paint over and over then finally adding the tags last. The way you are doing it now looks like rainbow diarrhea - you need real texture and layers.
>>
>>85542493
Yeah, I don't like the look of it either at the moment, and gonna redo it soon enough. Got some Stormshield and Typhus Corrosion from the LGS and will start again.

The starter:
>Vallejo White Base Primer
>Vallejo Metal Air Aluminium White
>Nuln Oil x2
>Agrax Earthshade

I'll probably draw up a mockup before painting properly.
>>
>>85542530
I think you are overthinking what should be a pretty simple paint job, like what is that recipe list even for? Look up some basic rust & hairspray chipping methods but ultimately I'd

>prime, Typhus, drybrush brown/orange/silver
>varnish
>hairspray, color 1, chip
>varnish
>repeat above for however many colors you want
>remember that varnish

Once you're happy with the amount of paint layers you have tag her up, and for extra points chip that layer of graffiti too then tag again.
>>
>>85542406
It looks like it's made out of those baked ritz crackers, what materials did you use?
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>>85542356
Yeah, I started collecting very early on. I have a bunch of first runs/encores and sometimes get multiples in case I want to retry a paint scheme. I have a few recasts as well for missing/replacement parts. I've downsized quite a bit, but it builds up over time lol.
>>
>>85542679
Based Shunya Yamashita kit
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Just about done with the first leg of my Death Guard possessed project. I wanted five of them for my rescued Land Raider. They're still a bit stunty despite the aftermarket gunts
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>>85542530
Throw it away you fucking mongoloid.
Captcha: AWAJY
>>
>>85542726
Lmao that's you're only comeback after being btfo?

>>85542739
Nope, /wip/ supports conversions, paypiggie. Your no fun allowed bullshit isn't welcome here. With the right paintjob his ugly ass basilisk will look great so we're trying to get him there. Don't like it? You know where the door is.
>>
>>85542757
It's not a conversion and the only one you keep "btfo"ing is yourself you retarded buttmad tourist. Stop coping and throw your janky paper shit in the bin, learn to fucking papercraft and build something that isn't a pain to look at. You triple giganigger, good papercraft printouts are a single search away, and you keep wasting your internet on defending this trash and screaming about "muh piggies" when NOBODY so far told you to buy ANYTHING.
>>
>>85541872
not too shabby. how long was the layoff?
>>
Made a test model for the death guard army im starting for heresy. Pretty happy with the result
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>>85542840
And the backside
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>>85542840
>>85542847
solid job, mate!
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>>85542799
It is a conversion, and I'm not the anon who is making it. I know you are autistic, but you've been talking to at least 3 people if I am reading the writing styles right. It's not made of paper, he melted down sprues to make it, which is what makes it a conversion, and since it's made of GW plastic 100%, it's tournament legal, and custom made to make people like you seethe. Which is why I've been enjoying watching the journey as he assembles these janky scrap piles and makes you madder and madder.

For all your schizo ranting about papercraft you don't even know what you're looking at!
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>>85542951
Thanks anon!
>>
>>85542955
It's not a conversion, it's a very poor and deliberately low effort attempt at scratchbuild. If you make plastic look like very badly built paper, it only speaks ill of you and not me. And please stop sock puppeting and samefagging, you're embarrassing yourself. And please understand that it's not "rrreeeee you have to use GW models only" bullshit that I support, I hate those autists as much as anyone. I only want you to put in real effort, like cutting rivets from sprue plastic rod or cutting panel gaps and welding seams into the damn thing.
>>
>>85518002
I feel meh about my Steinbeck, but love my Badger, my chineseum is crap but i use it for primer and varnish with few compalints.
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>>85542799
> t. totally not mad
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>>85542206
>doesn't look good on anything but cloth.
did you not notice the Ferrari's highlights are fucking pink
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>>85543346
It's gloss, not matte. Glossy shine always looks white.
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>>85543077
Lmao I am not the scrap build anon. Do you realize how schizo you sound? You just dig yourself deeper.

Scrapguard anon keep doing what youre doing and don't listen to this idiot.
>>
>>85541249
The photoresin one. My handle, part of her hair and boot also snapped of during transport.
Got everything glued back on, except the hair since it was too tiny.
Well Poots and his team are retarded. The ship without protective bubble wrap.
>>
>>85542732
Earthworm Jim..
>>
ive started painting stellar lord,and i wanted to use him as a proxxy for seraphon army but i still don't hive idea for what unit, any ideas?
>>
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New painter, I'm moving and realized I probably have 8 or 9 different shades of green paint, 6 or 7 shades of brown, etc. Should I try to work on blending my own shades instead of buying another pot of citadel overpriced paint?
>>
>>85544495
>New painter
>I probably have 8 or 9 different shades of green paint, 6 or 7 shades of brown, etc
how did that happened.
>>
>>85544507
Trying to follow tutorials online to get started, "hey I'm going to show you my favorite way to paint orc flesh" they then list 15 different paints. I started with a box of skitarii and the citadel Duncan Rhodes paint tutorial probably has 30 plus paints in it.
>>
I'm painting up some skeletons, including archers. What color should I make the bows? Brown or bone (which I usually use) don't seem like good fits
>>
>>85544507
Salamanders or Orks player, probably.

>>85544495
>>85544532
My brother in Chris, get to your local Hobby Lobby and buy dropper bottles and a funnel. Gattai Combo your paints and hope to God they fit.

Also why did you buy so many paints when you can blend them yourself?
>>
What size magnets do you guys use on GW 25mm bases?
>>
>>85544532
>>85544553
besides the advice of thinning your paint i also often see suggestion that you should learn how to mix paints instead of buying 200+ different ones.That's why i was so surprised that a new painter has so many different shades of the same color.
>>
>>85544495
Some people will go "oh yeah I'm ultra pro I only use black and white and then I mix any other colour I want by eating this exact combination of skittles for a week and then using my dried rainbow faeces as pigment" but there's nothing really wrong with having 8 different shades of brown or whatever, if you have a use for them. Quick, easy, reproducibility is good when you're talking about army painting. However you don't NEED to buy green 1, green 2, green 3 etc. to exactly follow the Citadel Method of highlighting either. The more you paint, the more you'll figure out what's comfortable for you.
>>
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Kitbashed a chapter champion. First time sculpting fur.
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>>85544495
The only colors you can't mix with other paints are extremely saturated tones; every time you mix paints the resultant color is a little bit less vibrant than the input colors are. So while it's true that you can make red by mixing magenta and yellow, the red you get is going to be a little less vibrant, a little bit less red than you could get straight from a pot of pure red. So if you want very vibrant, very saturated, very rich versions of colors, you will want to buy them premade.

The other thing to note is, even if you can mix a color, that doesn't mean you should. If you're doing an entire army, I wouldn't recommend basing their primary color off a mixed color, because it'll come out slightly different every time and you'll get tired of constantly mixing it. Or even if it's just a color you like and enjoy using it, then go ahead and put a ring on it.

Ultimately, buy what you want. Mixing colors is a great skill to have, but don't buy into the meme and go all the way to mixing everything you use (although that is a fun exercise to try on a mini, as a one time skill test).
>>
>>85520530
>>85534116
>>85534367
>>85541063
This is why i wanted to know. It really looks like a rust effect i want to add to the collection.
Also have some contriboot.
>>
>>85544812
Like this guy says, it's mainly a matter of consistency.
Mix a small amount for hair colors, flesh tones, or details you will use on a single model. Don't mix anything you want to use in multiple areas across a full set of troops.
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>>85544535
I think a nice chocolate brown would look just fine.
>>
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>>85515644
Tomorrow I'll have the frigates done
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Gradual progress.
>>
new tred pls
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>>85544761
Also made a backpack for an inquisitor conversion.
>>
>>85520530
>>85520580
love seeing your stuff
>>
>>85524405
>speckled texture
Time to get the paint stripper anon and try again. Priming is hard. Looks like you held the can too far apart from the minis.

What kind of material are those guys made out of? Plastic? Resin? Metal? Metal models can easily be stripped with acetone, its like magic. Plastic minis can be soaked in degreasers (simple green, purple power, LA totally awesome) for a few days then scrubbed with a toothbrush. Resin is a bit trickier because its porous. I have used simple green to strip a resin mini before and while it worked, it left it smelling like it. I have also had luck with isopropal (no soaking mind you) and lots of elbow grease on a model that I wanted to be very delicate on.
>>
>>85545707
nice
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>>85545707
crafty soab. i love conversions like these. +1 interwebz to you.
>>
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>>85542493
Just had it all cleaned up with IPA and re-coated nicely. Both have had a base of Vallejo Metal Air Color Aluminium White, with one as the test bed using Typhus Corrosion. The panel on top had been coloured earlier, but helps to quickly distinguish which side is which for comparison of colour and effect.

>>85542578
In addition, I don't have hairspray, but I do (now) have Typhus Corrosion and Stormshield, so I can definitely do the first few things. Any tips on what do without hairspray?

>>85542616
Melted Sprue ala Miniature Hobbyist (Sprue Goo Guy). They look uneven due to the process requiring a lot of sprue and acetone layered atop each other, and any excess not being washed out before flattening via rolling pin and greaseproof oven paper.

I do suggest when entering into this endeavour to use a glass jar with a metal seal and silicon stopper, to hermetically seal the jar as acetone has a hazardous effect on your health when inhaled. When taking it out, wear a paint mask (the one you use for priming or airbrushing will most certainly do) and some nitrile gloves. Acetone in the diluted form you get from nail polish remover is not harsh enough for immediate action, but volatile enough that you need a mask. Glove up due to the prolonged exposure and the adhesive nature of the plastic. Do this activity with plenty of ventilation and leave said melty sprue in a location with plenty of ventilation.
>>
>>85510912
Those look really cool, Anon.
>>
>>85527396
Remember that YouTubers don't actually share their knowledge, they just show off and make money of showing off.

There was a video by a guy I forgot the name of about blending, and he kept talking about how easy it was and how simple, but he never mentioned the small drop of retarder he was using between colours layers. One guy in the comments told him because he noticed, and he never replied nor left a "like" to that particular comment, despite liking all the others.
Same shit with airbrushing, there's not a single YouTuber who gives you HIS recipe, they all tell "just learn the feel/watch how it goes/be yourself" bullshit, when painting is obviously ruled by the laws of chemistry so THERE IS an optimal thinner/paint ratio, they just don't want you to know.
>>
>>85545906
I highly recommend you get your hands on at least one oil wash for rust effects, or paint the weathering using a small sponge or similar. You can look up techniques applied to militar models
>>
How do I glue the subassemblies into a finished model? Does superglue hold painted surfaces well?
>>
I was really excited to build a weirdo necron based off the six-arm-socket Hexmark torso. Pumped to paint this guy.
>>
Does Vallejo plastic putty get reactivated by water? I've got some pieces with filled gaps that I wanna clean.
>>
>>85546976
I can't wait to see it painted, either. that's a really nice conversion
>>
>>85546839
File the contact points a bit so that it's bare plastic against bare plastic.
>>
>>85513942
For the love of God stop using citadel yellows, whites, off whites, and metalics.
>>
>>85524405
You can zenithal with cans if you don't have an airbrush anon. Get a black canned primer then zenithal with a white canned primer. Also, zenithal priming is not something that you need to worry about as a beginner. I mean no offense by this but learn how to paint well before worrying about advanced techniques.
>>
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>>85546406
>Remember that YouTubers don't actually share their knowledge, they just show off and make money of showing off.
Except, in this case, he did explicitly mention what he was using for thinning and even talked about how the yellow can be thick without using the thinner later on.
>THERE IS an optimal thinner/paint ratio
Which depends on a number of factors, including paint batch and the age of your paint. Which is why they don't give exact ratios. And, again, Gray said how he should've thinned the yellow more.
>>
Rinse your brushes before entering the new thread

>>85549052



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