[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Board
Settings Mobile Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games

[Advertise on 4chan]


Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.


[Advertise on 4chan]


Work in Progress, "Taco Tuesday" Edition

>WIP Condensed OP Pastebin
https://pastebin.com/PhETapuN

>Grimdark Compendium tutorials
https://mega.nz/folder/b8xjDCzR#_XvcaI9LnnOvTkvBa7Lzhg

>Making some awesome banners
https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2012/05/modeling-banners.html

>Recasting with Blue Stuff and LEGO bricks
https://mega.nz/#!OihwzSLR!yLIrbkeOm_zvEykMzj0HANGB1NFnT110J3GmzMW7LZQ

>4 EASY Chipping Tricks For Beginners
https://youtu.be/ku4comhKHJM

>Saint Duncan's "Six Things I Wish I Knew When I Started Painting"
https://youtu.be/ufP8ka3KGno

>Saint Duncan also explains thinning your paints
https://youtu.be/wxWgsqSf74s

>Painting a Blood Angel Intercessor
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hROWL8V4IoU

>Learn to paint with an unlicensed doctor
https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL3WLHZP4fB6Psqp-AHRiSbBVv21PiCxn9

>Easy-to-Make Realistic Shell Impacts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8I3lY0zQPbg

>Easy banners
https://www.heresy-online.net/threads/making-an-easy-40k-or-whfb-banner-minimal-green-stuff.118611/

>Decal Like a Pro
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYKLiEW7p9c

>How to Edge Highlight
https://youtu.be/KoRbYuAfbEk

>Sculpt Viking Beards and Hair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DB3ojCR5yGs

>Who's Johnny, she'd say, and smile in her special way
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Threads:
>>81679127
>>81651321
>>81627445
>>81604034
>>81576264
>>
Jingle bells, jingle bells...

>WIP Secret Santa 2020 Album
https://imgur.com/a/TeduVrJ
>2019
https://imgur.com/a/sRT7kKm
>2018
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq
>2017
https://imgur.com/a/qS7PH
>2016
https://imgur.com/a/1fxhq
>>
File: eyes2.png (306 KB, 403x537)
306 KB
306 KB PNG
I took some advice from the previous thread and touched up my Bullgryn.
>>
Can someone recommend me a good lightbox with some nice backdrops? I wanted to start taking better photos, and am wondering if there are better lightboxes than just the plain white ones listed on Amazon.
>>
Post any of your models with basing that you would consider particularly good
I need some inspiration
>>
>>81700283
You don't need a lightbox. Put a A3 sized paper as a backdrop under your painting lights.
>>
I've got a chaos rhino and chaos vindicator that just got their primer coat. After they're done, I've got to finish my Blackstone Fortress models.

Just finished this guy, thus completing my Necron army
>>
>>81700377
Become ungovernable, don't base your minis
>>
>>81700647
yes your posts are quite irrelevant now
>>
File: P1020350.jpg (205 KB, 1080x1080)
205 KB
205 KB JPG
Tested out a "universal highlight" with this model and I can't help but think it makes things look overall a bit dull. Am I overthinking it?
>>
File: P1020352.jpg (187 KB, 1080x1080)
187 KB
187 KB JPG
>>81701030
Also I'm never quite happy with how I paint robes, cloaks, and capes but I can't quite point to what I do wrong with them so any suggestions in that regard would help.
>>
>>81700647
>don't base your minis
He says with his minis on bases.
A plain base is still a base. Remove them to return to tradition. Unshod your minis.
>>
>>81701030
>>81701051
What's a universal highlight? Look at paintings for reference on cloth. Or your own clothes.
>>
>>81701244
Mixing and using the same color for the highlight, like Sunny skintone or ice yellow.
>>
File: 20211012_225645.jpg (949 KB, 1346x606)
949 KB
949 KB JPG
>>81700377
Here's my kriegers with 3 different types of dirt/sand and 1/72 bricks
>>
>>81701570
looks quite nice
>>
File: 20210825_030145.jpg (1.25 MB, 2286x4063)
1.25 MB
1.25 MB JPG
>>81701051
Could try bringing a little more of the base red after the wash
>>
Would anyone object to getting a high quality recast of OOP FW stuff in ss?
>>
>>81702169
Depends on the person

You'd need to ask when you get your SS

>London anon, do you mind recasts?
>>
>>81702169
I sent unwanted recasts last year. If they don't want it, they can throw it away for all I care. It was just a little bonus thing.
>>
>>81702275
Fair
>>
Can you substitute kitty litter in for sand when making a pva/water/sand mix?
>>
File: Resized_20211012_191817.jpg (518 KB, 1224x1612)
518 KB
518 KB JPG
Fucking
done
except for a bit of white on the port side because it takes fucking forever to dry and I need literally one more fucking layer fuck you it's done like it is
Like twelve shots in and I'm still done fuck
>>
File: Resized_20211012_191923.jpg (406 KB, 1224x1594)
406 KB
406 KB JPG
>>81702524
Fuk there's some highlihgts on the cannon that need to get redone
>>
File: Resized_20211012_192000.jpg (271 KB, 1224x1576)
271 KB
271 KB JPG
>>81702591
>>
>>81702524
>>81702591
>>81702616
Fucking nice, anon. I'm glad you didn't give up and stuck it through!
>>
>>81702169
I certainly would love it
>>
so i've got some 40k minitures and i want to make the bases muddy, but with water filled bootprints on them, to make it look like they're not the first wave of whatever died on this hellhole of a battlefield. All the stuff i'm seeing online with regard to water effects is like, streams and other deeper bodies, how difficult are just small footprints going to be to pull off, and what would be a good thing to do it with, if you dont' mind.
>>
File: fap (2).gif (597 KB, 234x170)
597 KB
597 KB GIF
>>81702524
>>
>>81702524
That's massive, good on you anon
>>
File: 1633996963403.jpg (359 KB, 1332x1000)
359 KB
359 KB JPG
Second time with the Boosta-blasta kit and I'm a firm believer in never building an Ork kit the same way twice. So I'm making one kit into two buggies, starting with this one. Still a fair bit to go, I'm struggling a bit over what to do as an ammo feed for the rivet cannon (probably will just end up with a drum on the top) and the hood needs to be finished up and all the exhausts glued in place, and then a bunch of detail panels and rivets.
>>
>>81702875
Get some resin water effects, mix brown in there and then pour it in.
>>
>>81703041
i'm talking small amounts. like wee barely noticable feet holes. I'm only seeing big bodies, is that viable? And vaguely cost effective.
>>
>>81703071
Yes just put it in a dropper bottle or something.
>>
>>81703071
if it's really tiny to the point you'd be left with a bucket of resin water you're not using just smooth the inside of the footprint and slap some gloss in there
>>
File: Resized_20211012_201003.jpg (513 KB, 1525x1170)
513 KB
513 KB JPG
>>81702616
>>
File: WTF.jpg (9 KB, 161x135)
9 KB
9 KB JPG
>>81701030
>>
>>81702169
make it clear and no, no one would mind but autists who deserve to suffer anyway
>>
>>81703098
that was a thought, but i wasn't sure which would look right, and i wanted some opinions before i put money down on a product.

Like it's not a lot for a bottle of pva glue or water effects, but i don't really enjoy dropping money to find out i could have done it better another way..
>>
File: P1020351.jpg (189 KB, 1080x1080)
189 KB
189 KB JPG
>>81703378
Not sure what's supposed to be pointed out here. Is it a good WTF? I guess not.
>>81702145
I was trying a big old mix of black, red, and ice yellow colors so I didn't use any washes here.
>>
File: 123453498.jpg (163 KB, 598x716)
163 KB
163 KB JPG
Any characters from other sources that you would like to bring to the tabletop?
I think I will put a Honsou together one day, and a Gorgutz too.
>>
File: oops.jpg (1.72 MB, 3616x2056)
1.72 MB
1.72 MB JPG
>>81704146
I meant this post for another thread.
Here is some until recently WIP
>>
>>81704282

Nice looking nids.
>>
>>81703039
This is so good, really pinpointed down the black dragster with flames look
>>
>>81699910
How would you paint something so that it would look irradiated?
>>
>>81704105
It's a good reaction image. I lol'd. His eyes aren't quite straight, but I'd say that's a perfect face otherwise imo.
>>
>>81701051
Remember, Cloth doesn't normally form sharp edges like you've highlighted it as there. Perhaps softer highlights might work better?
Personally, I use small dashes across the ridge when highlighting cloth, to suggest a woven texture. The smaller and finer the lines, the smoother the fabric.
>>
Ok just finished the first 10 of my 60 cultists. Had to compromise and cut corners a bit to make it so the process wont take forever. I think my speed painting scheme looks ok though atleast for the 2 hours i put into it. Here is the first group
>>
>>81705217
And the second gang
>>
>>81705217
>>81705231
fukken wicked, beautiful models
>>
File: IMG_20211012_210752484.jpg (2.81 MB, 3120x4160)
2.81 MB
2.81 MB JPG
Any thoughts?
>>
Finished my Judicar, think the nebula sword effect came out neat
>>
>>81705632
myb wash next time instead of use black link for lining? paints a little thick too
>>
File: based.png (815 KB, 600x600)
815 KB
815 KB PNG
>>81702524
>>
>>81705632
Thin your paints more for smoother coats.
Get a newer, finer brush for details.
>>
>>81705632
Honestly, strip it and start over. The paint is looking pretty thick. Next time thin your paint a bit more. I feel like the thing that makes eldar ships cool is the sleek smooth surfaces but your paintjob has added quite a bit of texture.
>>
>>81705645
it did
>>
>>81705632
could use an extra layer of paint
>>
File: eb5.png (532 KB, 800x584)
532 KB
532 KB PNG
>>81705645
>>
>>81701030
>>81701324
Why though? It makes it look more washed out since you lose contrast.

If you want to use a universal color on a model to give a sense of atmosphere or whatever, do it in the shading and not the highlights.

Having said that the model does generally look nice. Keep experimenting anon
>>
File: 1614303108684.jpg (187 KB, 1081x1500)
187 KB
187 KB JPG
Hello /tg/ I am a nogames from /k/. Is lead ok for recasting minatures? I have a bit of experience with sand casting.
>>
>>81705887
pewter is better
>>
>Got my first squad of boyz painted up
>Halfway through the second
>Now I want to build and paint chaos

Guys I did this too much as a kid and now I have 8 armies, how do I stop this.
>>
>>81705918
>Pewter has a low melting point, around 170–230 °C

Dang I could do that on a hot plate. Does it flow better or something?
>>
>>81705938
Stop?
>>
>>81705964
It's not incredibly toxic for starters.
>>
>>81705964
it's not toxic and it's softer to scrape/file.
And it's not toxic
>>
>>81706000
>>81706018
Naaaaah lead's fine broskies. It's nice and heavy to displace any trapped air and I don't want to contaminate my lead pot. I'll just spray em up real good and not let anybody handle em.
>>
>>81702524
>>81702591
>>81702616
very cool. A local guy is doing the same thing, I wish I was more into titanicus
>>
>>81706174
>>
File: pr etty.jpg (34 KB, 622x439)
34 KB
34 KB JPG
>>81706174
jesus christ
>>
Just finished my custom Bonebreaka and started to paint it up today. Happy with how it’s turning out.
>>
File: Mork 'ave mercy.png (121 KB, 811x507)
121 KB
121 KB PNG
>>81706174
Jesus christ
>>
>>81706078
>posts made right before disaster
>>
>>81706191
1. Ow my neck
2. Got a better angle? It looks like the top set of tracks is superfluous because it rests on top of the bottom set entirely
3. Deff rolla needs more spikes
4.Dig the brave lad driving the thing asking for a lascannon to the face
>>
>>81704503
Like cartoon irradiated?
>>
>>81706207
It's okay I'm already kinda tarded.
>>
What's the deal with people highlighting gold with silver? I think its hard to have a highlight actually show up on gold but the silver edge just looks wrong and looks like mess when its painted directly beside an actual silver surface.
>>
>>81706195
>>81706190
yeah the guy is a really nice old grog, he's always a blast to play against in anything
>>
>>81706382
I'll post a few more of his stuff since it's nice to get ideas. He's planning on doing all the gods
>>
>>81706441
>>
>>81706472
>>
Pls no bully
>>
File: regret.jpg (27 KB, 500x469)
27 KB
27 KB JPG
>>81706382
>>81706441
>>81706472
aw man my titans won't be this cool
>>
>>81706499
nah man, yours are great! I'm just sharing inspiration. I've got some old mega gargants I want to get playable in titanicus
>>
>>81706517
>>
>>81706517

This is some fucking Doom ass shit.
>>
>>81706382
Is he adopting?
>>
>>81706517
No I already built all my Titans, Anon. They aren't that cool.
>>
>>81706559
>>81706567
we have a kinda grudge match going over 10 years at tournies. Both of us bring garbage lists and sometimes the organizers match us round one to see a really close, really shitty game for laughs
>>
>>81706517
That model would be insanely expensive to make but it does look fantastic.
>>
>>81706488
Plenty charming, just needs some good fitting basing
>>
>>81706517
great looking mini though i expect gargants to have that absurd cock cannon

>>81706596
What is the tourney scene even like? Not often I see it discussed desu
>>
File: Forest_Whitaker.jpg (405 KB, 1200x828)
405 KB
405 KB JPG
>>81701030
>>
>>81705632
Absolutely mangled
>>
>>81706665
the cock cannon is a classic and shall not be derided
>>
File: 1293996739333.jpg (603 KB, 968x648)
603 KB
603 KB JPG
>>81706665
I meant 40k. That said we haven't faced each other since 6th edition as we're both busy with life. He used to run custodes (upscaled marines using blood angel rules, this is before they had any figs or rules).

I've been in the hobby scene since the late 90s, he's been around since the early 80s
>>
File: IMG_0137.jpg (261 KB, 1600x1471)
261 KB
261 KB JPG
>>81706078
>>81705887
Lead miniatures can "rot" whereas pewter is more resistant. Grey crumbling areas in pic related show the damage. Once it starts it can't be removed entirely and will eventually crumble.
>>
>>81706738
That's kino though
>>
>>81706738
I've only ever had that happen to a tin of pellets I left in the yard for a year or two and it was just a patina. If they're oiled or painted they should be fine.
>>
>>81702504
Not sure about kitty litter but you could use bird sand.
>>
File: Gotham Chainsaw Massacre.jpg (4 MB, 4608x3456)
4 MB
4 MB JPG
I feel like I'm slowly improving on flesh tones!
>>
>>81706277
The highlights they are doing are probably too thick or constant. Just go ahead and look at some highly polished golden metal and tell me if it looks gold in the areas the light reflects off it most harshly. It doesn't, if anything its going to look white. When working with TMM most silvers are a white or light grey pigment with mica flakes to make it shiny looking, its the natural progression forwards.
When you highlight a darker gold it should be something like dark gold/bronze base coat>bright gold for most highlights>silver for corners, points, brightest highlights etc.
>>
Do you paint one model at a time or in an assembly line fashion? I used the latter method, but are there any benefits in painting one model at a time?
>>
>>81707374
1 model at the time for testing schemes, assembly line once you nailed the process.
>>
>>81700043
Looks good, although I miss the Sloth aesthetic
>>
File: 85-percent done.jpg (36 KB, 576x768)
36 KB
36 KB JPG
>>81704282
Hey, purple bug friends! Primed up some warriors after this guy.
>>
>>81707374
I paint one squad at a time and paint all of them a little different. I try to remember how I did the ones that I end of liking better and then still do a mix with the next squad.

It works bc orks but I don't think I'd do that for marines or something.
>>
>>81707455
Dangs that's beautifully vibrant! Great job!
>>
>>81704503
I'd probably add like some fake goo to it, paint the goo white and then green over it.
>>
>>81707374
Paint one model from start to finish for motivation. Seeing the end result helps a lot. Especially if you hit that low point.
>>
>>81707374
Assembly lines destroys my motivation and i end up painting much lower quality.
>>
>>81707374
It depends on what I'm making. If it's just general chaff an assembly line will do. More important models get a detail.
>>
File: Renegade.jpg (205 KB, 744x1426)
205 KB
205 KB JPG
Working on my Traitor Scions right now. Trying to make every model unique.
>>
Old camo pattern green on the left, new on the right. Helmet/LBE/pack color will also be washed then highlighted khaki and khaki/white again to make it distinct from uniform.
>>
File: 1406154513727.gif (856 KB, 175x200)
856 KB
856 KB GIF
>>81706596
>tfw will never have a local rival that everyone else eagerly looks forward to watching the next grudge match with
>>
>>81708094
Pic upload is acting weird
>>
>>81707898
Why does he have a balloon?
>>
>>81708350
Throwing a guardsman covered in explosives.
>>
>>81708350
It's free balloon day
>>
>>81708350
the clown Pagliacci was in town
>>
>>81699910
man you keep making me hungry with this OP
>>
>>81704503
Something like this?
>>
>>81706382
yoooooo that's a fuckin' lord of battles from epic
>>
>>81707898
>copyrightable nunames
They're Storm Troopers. There are no "scions", never were and never will be.
>>
I wish it was easier to take pics of these guys.
>>
>>81708949
"scion" is a real word you fucking dunce
>>
>>81708977
super cute
>>
>>81709025
woosh
>>
>>81705632
Come on mate, you can do better than that. Strip it with Dettol or your non UK equivalent, thin your paints, reconsider your colour palette and take your time.
>>
>>81705632
I'm not saying this to be cruel, but this looks terrible. The people saying it looks good do not have your best interests at heart. At this point there is no way forward to make it look good short of stripping it and starting over from scratch.
>>
>>81706174
H-How big is that shit exactly ?
>>
>>81709276
He's using a 40k imperial knight as the base, and titanicus knights on the base, so it's not THAT big.
>>
File: dettolliquid250ml.jpg (35 KB, 700x700)
35 KB
35 KB JPG
>>81709054
Not anon, but this dettol strips paint?
>>
>>81709310
not well
>>
>>81709310
It's the propylene component in dettol that causes it to strip paint, same with simple green. Just bypass and use isopropyl alcohol and a toothbrush.
>>
>>81705217
What colors did you use anon? I've been looking at my cultist pile for a few days now and im dreading it.
>>
Added some soggy garbage and some much needed spots of color. I know the rims look terrible, it usually takes about 3 separate passes to get them looking even colored.
>>
>>81709310
It does, but when you try and rinse the paint+dettol mix it forms a gunk which is a right bitch to clean. Use methylated spirits instead.
>>
File: rorschach_inked.jpg (124 KB, 750x534)
124 KB
124 KB JPG
>>81708399
"But Doctor," the man says, "... I *am* great clown Pagliacci!"

>>81708483
>man you keep making me hungry with this OP
I specifically put this one together so we'd have some variety on Taco Tuesday.
>>
>>81709386
Its really simple and quick. The robe is Skeleton horde, the skin guillmans flesh, the straps and pants wyldwood and the boots and some other detail is black templar. The metal is leadbelcher and gold is liberator gold both washed with agrax earthshade.
I usually dont use contrast this much in my projects but as I said, I had to cut corners to speed up the process.
>>
>>81698124
for the rope just get a copper wire of a reasonable size, fold it in half, fix it on a hook and twist it with power drill until you get a twist rate that you like
>>
>>81709310
fuck yes this cleans, simply let the dettol drip off then wipe it off with a square of toilet paper, finish off with toothbrush. 100% ez
>>
File: ghosts of cadia.jpg (1.99 MB, 4156x1896)
1.99 MB
1.99 MB JPG
I posted my homebrew army Ghosts of Cadia a while back. Here is a new attempt using green stuff and OSL for the first time. Comments, tips?
>>
>>81709916
Cool beanz man, thank you!. They look hella good for speed running. I'm probably gonna copy that exactly. Running black legion and that would add some great color to the sea of black and gold.
>>
>>81710207
The skull and flames look cool, but having no effects on normal-colored uniforms and guns looks weird to me.
>>
>>81710546
Might also be worth mentioning that I used AP white primer. I usually use corax white but felt like the colours came out a little too grey and dull when I tried it as undercoat.
>>
>>81710207
the sculpting is good, but you need more contrast around the flames to make the effect pop.
Check this example out. Painting dark next to light (can never go wrong with Caravaggio here) makes the light effects pop much more. Since you are going for a ghost/undead look anyway you can also dial back the colors and brightness on the rest of the uniform. That way you can really make the flaming skull the visual focus of the model to make it look more striking.
>>
Calling them done. Finished in one session!
>>
File: 2021-10-14_01-36-07.png (280 KB, 584x619)
280 KB
280 KB PNG
slowly knocking more out, just a few more til I get to do another trukk
>>
File: 1616460067208.jpg (233 KB, 1500x870)
233 KB
233 KB JPG
Ahh, I'm looking forward to SS, hope you like Gaslands and Oldmunda, Anon.
>>
What kind of paint types "ruin" brushes? Metallics, washes, contrast?
>>
>>81713005
Any kind of paint can ruin a brush, specially if you let the paint get to the ferrule and dry there.
>>
>>81713005
metallic flakes and cut your bristles or sty in there and contaminate other paints. Washes and contrast paints flowaid and mediums in them that make them soak up into the ferrule. So stay away from that kind of stuff. Goes for regular inks too I guess. Or just practice extra care when you use them on a good brush.


As a general rule you shouldn't be painting with your "good" brushes most of the time anyway. Reserve them for detail work, highlights, freehanding etc.
Most basic stuff like basecoating or applying a wash and a shade can be done with a cheap disposable synthetic brush. Those will just cost a couple of cents a pop.
>>
>>81712204
>Oldmunda
best munda
>>
>>81713109
Thank you for your detailed answer. I'm gonna get a cheap set then.
>>
I'm planning on getting some blue stuff for recasting, what's a good putty I should buy with it(I'm in Europe, czech republic specifically)? That one video suggests epoputty and I can find that in a local shop for about 6 euros for 100g but I'm wondering if there's something else I should get instead. Like say something from greenstuffworld so I can add it to the order.
>>
>>81713251
also, specifically I'd like something that's easier to work with after it solidifies
>>
>>81713251
>blue stuff for recasting
>something from greenstuffworld
you are paying extra for repackage and rebranded oyiumaru. It's a japanest modeling thing you can get from amazon anywhere.

As for the putty you are using with it it depends on what you want out of the finished product. Milliput dries rockhard and can be cut and sanded very nicely. Two part epoxies like Green Stuff or Magic Sculpt retain a bit of flexibility. You can also mix certain putties to get different texture, but you can find some good information online on that if you go looking for it. Personally I don't have any experience with mixing different putties, I just have a couple that I use for different things.
>>
>>81713318
>It's a japanest modeling thing you can get from amazon anywhere.


Goods from Japan are not really cheap here though.
I bought some oyiumaru ages ago from a japanese store via ebay, and it was more expensive than the stuff that GSW is selling now.
That said, 6 or 8€ is no big difference, so whatever.
I would buy it where it ships fastest.
>>
>>81710951
How the fuck do I do that. What colours have been used there. It looks like magic.
>>
>>81713553
Fair enough. I bought mine from a reseller in France (I'm in Germany), so it was a cheaper that way for me.
>>
>>81713251
anon, i want to cast some stuff myself, relatively easy (space wolves pelt heads) so i'm sticking with greenstuff. Ive looked into bluestuff and it seems very inconsistent and may warp to buggery but do update with your progress
>>
File: 2m6au1p6r7t71.jpg (629 KB, 3024x4032)
629 KB
629 KB JPG
Constructive criticism?
>>
>>81713849
I think you should post your own models
>>
>>81713656
I'd suggest looking into neon colors. Vallejo has a couple of neon paints. If you paint with them over a white base they'll give you a really bright color. It's a neat way to paint flames or magic effects.

But of course this is a picture, if you were to look at the miniature in person it might not like quite like it under different lighting conditions compared to when the picture was taken.
>>
>>81713849
>mould linese everywhere (remove them)
>assuming from blue affect you didn't give it a rinse in soapy water so it still has production oil on it.
>good choice of colours (but use a primer, apply base colours for your layers so colours have depth.
>perhaps use different tones of gold for armour and iconography so it doesn't blend together.
>skulls can use a highlight
>perhaps don't add pupils to the eyes
>eagle head can also use highlight or drybrush
>terrain could be dry brushed.
>perhaps strip the model and try again.

good luck
>>
File: IMG_20211013_201639.jpg (3.22 MB, 4160x3120)
3.22 MB
3.22 MB JPG
So I based my models today with some sand I picked up on my way from taking my son to nursery. The sand is glued with watered down PVA glue, some of the models also have gravel bought from Kromlech on their bases. What is the proper procedure after this? Is it enough to leave them as is, or does the sand need a second layer of glue to keep it fixed? Should it be painted and if so, can I just use an ink?
>>
File: 1634148795737.jpg (368 KB, 1608x1628)
368 KB
368 KB JPG
>>81713849
>>
>>81713656
>>81713926
here's am example of that on a model
https://youtu.be/roe8RUDtg1Y?t=2023
if the timecode doesn't work on here skip to 33.45
>>
>>81713984
ANOTHER ONE FOR THE COLLAGE
>>
File: Death_Scy_F.jpg (609 KB, 1880x1500)
609 KB
609 KB JPG
finished taking pics of the finished Death today and thought I'd share some in here too since I posted the progress here as well
>>
File: Death_Scy_B.jpg (580 KB, 1697x1500)
580 KB
580 KB JPG
>>81714043
>>
File: Death_Axe_F.jpg (755 KB, 2215x1500)
755 KB
755 KB JPG
>>81714055
and here's one with the axe
>>
File: git-collage.png (970 KB, 2240x674)
970 KB
970 KB PNG
Attempting to do a moody lighting effect
>>
>>81712204
That sounds fun. Actually odd question to SS anons, would you mind getting a gift of a little scratch built ork walker? like something on size 50mm base and about 6 cm tall and made in a bucket bot shape?
I ran out of grots to make into cristmas grots so wanna add something nice.
>>
>>81714120
I would bribe santa to have you as my match
>>
>>81714196
I am not that good at making things, I just though I could spend like week or two to make this little one as a gift, paint it up half festive and gift it away?
>>
>>81714043
>>81714055
>>81714105
A bitter reminder that my Great Swordsman is being neglected. Really nice job, loving the skintone especially. Props for using both weapon options. If I had to nitpick I'd say that the axe blade could've been made to look a little more interesting, but honestly I don't have anything bad to say about this piece otherwise.
>>
>>81714208
>>81714196
>>
>>81714256
thank you anon, glad you like it
I tried to give the axe a metallic sheen with some pigment but it didn't work quite as I hoped, I probably should have just added some scratches on the edges instead
>>
>>81713951

Ok, I added a second layer of glue, right now it looks like they are in mud, which fits nurglites rather well. I'll see what happens once the glue dries up.
>>
File: ezgif-7-e3957e67ec51.gif (619 KB, 638x703)
619 KB
619 KB GIF
Almost done, the shit eating grin pleases me.
>>
File: IMG_20211012_214155_630.jpg (3.69 MB, 4608x3456)
3.69 MB
3.69 MB JPG
>>81714339
Ok, so I will consider it, I hope I get matched with someone who enjoys little orky things. This is the test model so far, I was thinking of trying new methods to make orky things, but this trash bot gave me ideas how to make nice orky heads for little stompies.
>>
What's a good color to match with brozne or copper. I see a lot of teal, which suggests verdigris but I'm not looking for damaged or old metallic
>>
>>81714534
Bone white
>>
>>81714496

Good combo of head posing and smug facial expression.
>>
>>81714534
you can do whatever you want if you only have bronze right now.
Blue, green, red, whatever you can think off.
>>
>>81714457
Once the glue is dried, you can either apply a wash directly to the base, or you can paint it in whatever color you like, then drybrush it with a light grey or sand color to make it look like sand again, and then give it a wash.


Then you varnish the entire model (or skip that) and after that step you glue on some grass to your base if you want.
>>
>>81714534
I used bronze, red and black for my Minotaurs. The colors work well together.
>>
File: Chaos barbarians.jpg (141 KB, 1672x1254)
141 KB
141 KB JPG
I painted up these 4 chaos barbarians. I believe they are from the first AoS starter set.

I got them from an Ebay lot i bought a few weeks ago.
Can't say i expected much from them, but i already like how they start to look.
Obviously some "blood for the blood god" is missing from some weapons, and the bases are missing too, but i like them
>>
What kind of supplies can you usually get a general craft store? I have a Michael's nearby and I've browsed their website but they have so much shit that has nothing to do with minis that it's hard to find stuff. I know you can get blocks of foam for sculpting, but that's about all I've found that's relevant.
Do places like this carry static grass or anything like that?
>>
File: 215234523.jpg (945 KB, 910x2148)
945 KB
945 KB JPG
>>81714017
Updated
>>
>>81714899
I'm not 100% sure, but the inventory of Michaels vary alot between different stores i think.
Just go there and check? It will cost you an hour at most?

Here, i can get cheap acrylic paints, varnishes, spraycans, some texture paints, little stones, beads and chains and other "decoration" things.
Also those foam plates to make terrain from, and other terrain stuff in general. Balsawood for example, sometimes plasticcard.
>>
>>81714899
You can usually get a few bits and pieces like static grass, pebbles, plastic foliage, basically the sort of bits and pieces you'd want for doing a model railway. So you can probably get some p. gud basing gubbins, though the selection can be hit-or-miss, but you can always get the essentials like 00 scale livestock. Can't base a mini without some chickens.
>>
>>81714899
I've never found specific hobby stuff in Michael's stores, only general equipment as the anon here said >>81714934 . One thing I'd recommend is see if there are any stores nearby who sell, or sell things related to, model trains. I was lucky to find one such store a few years ago, and while they don't sell mini's, they sell everything else I could possibly need.
>>
>>81714996
I heard that many Michaels actually carry a sometimes small, sometimes average section of model kits. I could imagine that in those cases, they also carry some paint, glue and basic brushes etc.
>>
>>81715031
They used to, but the store in my area (before it shut down) got rid of its selection of kits (Revell, AMC, etc). I don't know if that was a company decision, or a sign of bad business practice. But you can definitely get things like Xacto knives, glue, and oil paints.
>>
Hey all, I've been out of the hobby for a while and I'm in the middle of planning out a new Space Marine army. I'm planning to make a mix of Firstborn Marines and Primaris, with the Firstborn scaled up by using the new bodies with Mk7 heads and power packs (mostly due to not really liking the look of the two different scales in the same army).

Problem if I really like the Mk7 heads over the MkX and was thinking of putting them on every marine - If I do that is there anything you can suggest to help an opponent easily identify Tacs from Intercessors other than one unit having a special/heavy weapon? Should I just use the Primaris heads?
>>
>>81715201
The correct answer is to not use Primaris.
If you want to upscale your dudes there are a bazillion ways to do "truescale" or "art scale" marine conversions. People have been doing that for about 15 years before GW caught up to the hype train and thought it would be a good idea to retcon Primaris into the setting.
>>
File: 1605476949074.jpg (3 KB, 98x112)
3 KB
3 KB JPG
>>81714917
These catachans have reall well sculpted faces
>>
>>81715524
Those Catachans are probably older than 50% of the posters in here..
>>
File: IMG_20211013_210057.jpg (3.84 MB, 3968x2976)
3.84 MB
3.84 MB JPG
Letting myself go a bit crazy with these guys
>>
>>81705632
Start again. These are considered bad.
>>
File: 1607783097103.jpg (2 KB, 57x74)
2 KB
2 KB JPG
>>81715544
They do kind of have that 80's action hero look.

>>81715592
Chill out bro they look great.
>>
File: 01957634579.jpg (73 KB, 509x512)
73 KB
73 KB JPG
>>81715454
>The correct answer is to not use Primaris.
>>
>>81715201
If you want truescale marines, the current CSM bodies are pretty much perfection.

Do our own unique Warband with MK7 heads and Packs.
>>
File: ShottyVets.jpg (1.26 MB, 2000x1899)
1.26 MB
1.26 MB JPG
>>81715524
I love their cheesy look and those faces are actually a lot of fun to paint
I should get myself another squad sometime and maybe I can make it on the collage again
>>
How do I stop thinned paint from being really watery and acting like a wash? Wait for it to dry a bit first?
>>
>>81716021
Depends on what you're trying to do with it. If you're after very solid coverage then yeah, best leave it to dry a bit. If you're after a thinner layer, like for building up a gradient or something, wick off the excess paint onto a paper towel first (just dab the brush against it gently, if your paints runny the excess will just flow off dead easy), that'll leave you with a more controllable amount in the bristles
>>
>>81705632
This isn't good.
>Sloppy paint work
>Inconsistent paint coverage
>Paint not thinned enough
I hope this isn't a finished product. Either way I'd start over. Make sure your base coats are sufficiently even before you start on details. Sometimes this can take a lot of coats depending on your primer color, but it's better than leaving this streaky mess.
>>
File: f1pnkxu0ehf51[1].jpg (499 KB, 2000x2000)
499 KB
499 KB JPG
>>81700377
I've been repeatedly complimented and asked about the basing on these Tzaangors (and the rest of the 1k sons) though I don't particularly see it.
>>
>>81707455
Yea this is great
Cant wait to see those warriors
>>
>>81700377
>>
>>81713951
>>81714457
Where are these from? I don't recognize them but they are very cool.
>>
>>81716750
I think they are 3dprinted iirc. Anon mentioned the maker last thread (or the one before)
>>
>>81716750
>>81716971
Grove acolytes from Beastiarum miniatures.
>>
File: IMG_20211014_010849_936.jpg (3.62 MB, 4608x3456)
3.62 MB
3.62 MB JPG
Work continues on the tiny lad. Not sure if I will give him a head. Got a bead deer skull which turn turn him from goofy to psychotic but I could just give him ork killa kan style face too.
Right now though thinking if it needs much else besides some rivets and perhaps some spikes
>>
Can you guys redpill me on painting directly atop metal miniatures without pruning them? I’ve got a set of old/rare 40k stuff and don’t want to ruin them. All of the best metal minis I’ve seen painted skip the priming step and just get directly into painting on the guy. Not even airbrushed. Is the trick in simply sealing them up really well with a shot of Testor’s glosscote before a shot of dullcote? Please learn me in the ways of sharp details on metal minis.
>>
>>81715201
>is there anything you can suggest to help an opponent easily identify Tacs from Intercessors other than one unit having a special/heavy weapon?
Use regular size boltguns for the tacticals, and not the long bolt rifles
>>81715454
>>81715666
not /40kg/ and not the thread for your bitching about non-/wip/ subjects
>>
>>81717294
That sounds daft. You wanna prime your minis, if a primer isn't ruining plastic it's likely to not do much to metal. In fact most metals prefer priming since it prevents easy oxidation, and things like lead will rot without it easier.
>>
File: IMG_20211014_010853_578.jpg (3.84 MB, 4608x3456)
3.84 MB
3.84 MB JPG
>>81717293
>>
>>81717294
Prime your minis.
>>
File: IMG_20211014_010906_036.jpg (3.88 MB, 4608x3456)
3.88 MB
3.88 MB JPG
>>81717331
>>
>>81717294
what the fuck are you talking about
>>
>>81717320
It’s more about maintaining really sharp detail than it is about hurting the model. I guess not many propels remember the old ways.
>>
>>81717446
you're priming wrong if this is a concern to you.
>>
>>81717294
>>81717446
>pruning
>propels
>skipping priming to "save sharp detail and preserve the mini"

lol had a good chuckle
>>
>>81717446
Old ways are reason many minis lost detail and rotted.
>>
>>81717446
If you prime so thick that it hurts the detail of the model, you done fucked up.
>>
>>81717294
>>81717446
no idea if this a troll, but prime your models. Also what the hell does pruning mean in this context? Do you mean cleaning mold lines or what?
>>
File: 3434536667.jpg (350 KB, 1400x1006)
350 KB
350 KB JPG
Last of the Battlemech mechs I got finished up, a Pillager and Atlas. Trying to get the freehand for the toothy mouth of the pillager was hard but I got it eventually.
>>
>>81716134
Why did you feel the need to be the 9th person to tell that guy the exact same thing. Wish my models got responses like that, jesus.
>>
>>81715666
Satan has spoken
>>
>>81718292
I wanted to be in on the dog pile. same
>>
>>81717951
Neat. A little drybrushy and subdued for my tastes but for Battletech yeah cool. For mouthes I’ve found it is easier to have a wholly black interior. Paint the area white first then trace the shapes of the teeth with black and fill with black for teeth like pic
>>
>>81717331
I like this a lot.
>>
These guys are test not mean to be fully finished minis. But on the camo pattern, do you think left is a decent representation of UCP at 28mm? Right was testing for a more fictional pattern, but does sharp tan at that size of camo & shape look worth pursing?
>>
>>81718804
Does the left read as desert MARPAT at 28mm. I’m worried it lost distinction of the pattern after it was washed.
>>
>>81718804
>>81718822
The one on the right in both pics passes the "arm's length" test really well. The grey-tan one muds out badly, but a greener jacket could up the contrast enough to make it look good.
And yeah, teh wash in the second pic makes it look like a sloppy pooling wash job, not camo. Those splashes of white and tan really help sell it, even though they're bad as actual camo.
>>
>>81719202
There are two parallel uses as well: Diorama and tabletop. Diorama can afford to mud out a bit at distance and be more time consuming to paint since it’s only a few guys. Tabletop would need theatrical changes and be easier to paint.

The left guy did wash out. Next time I don’t plan to wash but to paint him brown first, then layer up to tan then paint on the pattern. That should look better for dioramas to keep him from missing out.
I think with the UCP I need smaller shapes and even sharper color differences to make it look functional for diorama. For tabletop I will have to work around since those shapes will be much slower to paint any smaller.
>>
>>81705632
Paint isn't thick enough
>>
File: muhboys.jpg (3.32 MB, 4608x3456)
3.32 MB
3.32 MB JPG
I rediscovered some minis I got like 3 years ago last month. I've decided to strip the horrible paintjob I gave them back then and try again. These boys are my second ever attempt at painting anything ever. The weird gunk on the Sargent's face is because I used rubbing alcohol to strip paint and not something stronger, I like to imagine it's a burn scar or something. What can I do to make them less bad?
>>
>>81713941
>you didn't give it a rinse in soapy water
different anon also new. Am I suppose to do that wit hall my new minis????? Have I been doing it wrong by just straight priming from the box after assembly
>>
>>81719676
You don't need to do that at all for plastic models, and for resin you only need to do it for forge world models and some recasters. Every other resin kit I've painted didn't have that problem, its just that FW has quality control just as bad as a random chinaman casting models in his shed.
>>
Would drybrushing all over the model with appropriate colors, for example, a lighter green over the green, and a lighter brown over the brown, be alright if I then touched up certain spots with edge highlights, like hard angles and spots that get hit with light?
I think doing both would create a good textured look that also has the crisp look of edge highlights.
>>
>>81719616
I'd suggest starting by closing the holes in the bases and cleaning up the splotches of paint on the base rim and places like the cables on the guns. If you manage to get the paint down exactly where you want it, with no overpainting etc (or just clean up after yourself) it will really help the final product to read better and improve the overall look.
>>
Redpill me on TurboDork paints bros. How do I get the shiny effect across raised surfaces when it's in-pot thinned. Letting it dry isn't helping, and it still runs even with the tiniest brush.
>>
File: file.png (353 KB, 674x814)
353 KB
353 KB PNG
Not sure if this counts as WIP material but I'm teaching myself to sculpt so I can eventually get these printed and paint my own custom personal models.

This shit is hard but fun.
>>
File: IMG_20211014_060003.jpg (4.04 MB, 3456x3456)
4.04 MB
4.04 MB JPG
Clean your pots, /wip/!
>>
>>81720591
Imagine using GW paints
>>
>>81720591
I do frequently
>>
File: Immortals.jpg (920 KB, 1080x1080)
920 KB
920 KB JPG
Finished up sum Immortals
>>
>>81720669
what's a good way to do the chest emblems? had trouble with those on my warriors and don't want to repeat the mess on my immortals
>>
>>81720960
The same process as you would edge highlight, skim the raised parts with the side of your brush.
>>
>>81716750

Grove acolytes, scrap knights, otto long-arm and demon centaur destroyers from bestiarum miniatures. I didn't print them myself, but I bought them from a licensed printer.
>>
File: 1490845853330.png (32 KB, 271x243)
32 KB
32 KB PNG
>>81699910
Wait I just noticed the OP image what the fuck
>>
>>81707455
What colors did you use?
>>
File: Ambush Bug.jpg (91 KB, 570x564)
91 KB
91 KB JPG
>>81702591
>>81702524
>>81702616
>>
>>81720669
Looks banging, Anon
>>
>>81720669

Good, crisp paintjob.
>>
>>81721478
Mostly P3. Midlund flesh base. Glaze with Sanguine Highlight. Glaze with Beaten Purple. Glaze with 75/25 Beaten Purple Thamar Black. Glaze with 50/50 Beaten Purple Thamar Black. Apply a little bit more black to deep recesses.

Carapace is Battlefield brown->Bootstrap Brown->Beast Hide->Hammerfall Khaki->Add 25 to 50% Menoth White Highlight on edges.

Blue is Tallasar Blue Contrast over white, with white added back in to highlight.
>>
Any Nid fags here care to tell me how to make genestealers look good? They might be the ugliest models I've ever seen, like how would you convert/paint them to not look garbage
>>
>>81721691
Just go with it. Genestealers were the first thing 40K I ever saw thanks to Space Hulk on the 3DO of all things. They're OG 40k in the best way. Embrace the SOUL!
>>
>>81721691
I've never seen any in real life. Could you describe what you find dislike about them?
>>
File: grimderp.png (1.33 MB, 1070x991)
1.33 MB
1.33 MB PNG
>>81721822
My main issue is that they look a bit grimderp to me, but maybe that's just GW's shit paint job
>>81721797
These actually look good thank you anon for inspiring faith in me that they can look good
>>
>>81721989
You're misusing that term.
>>
>>81722196
You're right, I'm fucking retarded.
I just think that for the ultimate threat to the galaxy they look very cartoonish and it makes them look goofy rather than intimidating.
>>
File: PXL_20210303_062051426~2.jpg (558 KB, 1999x1006)
558 KB
558 KB JPG
>>81721797
Yeah seconding this. Genestealers look good once you figure out how to paint them in line with the rest of the nids.

>>81721691
Just stick with your theme and roll with it. They blend in great once they are fully painted. Here's a few of my nids to show how the theme blends nicely together once finished.
>>
>>81722406
Wow yes those look very good, thanks for sharing anon. Absolutely gives me some ideas, I realize now they look good with the rest of the gang.
>>
doing blue/burgundy as my scheme, what's a good accent colour for that?
>>
>>81721989
Not grimderp but they are regular derp. It’s crazy, the old plastic Space Hulk Genestealers even are better. The currently ones are so bad, and that’s coming from somebody who thinks that most of the Tyranid line honestly doesn’t look dated.
The only way I could paint them was by using all over wash on the flesh and drybrush on the carapace. They’re a bitch. The only upside is a consistent scheme that is at least better than fingerpaint tier tend to look fine in swarms.
>>
>>81701570
genuinely some of the most realistic bases I've seen. Interested to see them painted
>>
File: 2ofthem.jpg (83 KB, 1280x720)
83 KB
83 KB JPG
>>81703255
Two of them
>>
>>81722947
Orange, yellow, teal, pink
>>
>>81715557
If you’re going to do loud garish colors you got to commit to saturation. No half measures. Relying on wash/contrast paint to do everything is not good for this look. That green body armor and purple uniforms need to glow like the frickin sun.
The guns look so boring. At a bare minimum paint different grey/metallic shades for the different parts to give them some variety. Even better to paint the hand guards, grips, accessories and possibly magazines bright colors to make them match the brightness of the minis.

The rocks don’t like like the exist in the environment. They look like bits glued on after the fact. Got to add a little of the basing material around them to make them look like they are sitting in the dirt.
>>
Recommendations for something to strip primer (rustoleum) off of a mini? I submerged some miniatures in 91% alcohol to strip a couple paintjobs I wasn't happy with, but the primer looks uneven on a couple of these guys and I'd like to go the extra step and re-prime them. I've heard plenty about Simple Green, but i also heard that in recent years the formula has been changed, so its less effective. Do I just need to submerge them in isopropyl alcohol for longer?

Also, I live in the US; I know that region plays a role in the availability of certain products
>>
>>81723120
Simple green, super clean and LA totally awesome are what are effective, i also use engine degreaser.
>>
>>81723158
alright, thanks. Just for further clarification the minis are plastic, but that being the most common type I imagine your answer was tailored towards that.
>>
>>81720591
>citadel paints
Ishygddt
>>
>>81723093
Thank you for the tips!
>>
>>81723120
This stuff does the trick for primer, it will just take a little more effort. I find a 72 hour bath, followed by a gentle scrub, and subsequent 24 hour baths/scrubs will eventually remove most of the primer within about a week. Primer can bind to, and stain your plastic though. If you still see little bits of primer color, but are satisfied that most of the layer of primer has been removed, then you are probably good to go. I used army painter necrotic flesh colored rattlecan primer for some GSC. I put it on too thick on a few aberrants, so I used LATA to remove the excess primer. The plastic was absolutely stained that color over 80% of the model. It took the initial 72 hours and 2 more 24 hour scrubs but it DID work. It re-primed great with details still intact. Good luck.
>>
>>81723180
All those are fine for plastic, engine degreaser is fine i think once had 1 side of a tank go all fuzzy after soaking i'm not sure if it was like that when i got it (it was second hand) or what.
>>
File: IMG_20211014_125023_326.jpg (2.54 MB, 4608x3456)
2.54 MB
2.54 MB JPG
I am quite happy with the little lad now. Just needs some more rust and should be good to be primed
>>
Can I put a bit of water into Citadel technical paint to soften it up again?
>>
Anyone know what's more cost effective, a long strip of green stuff
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/green-stuff/5-green-stuff-putty-tape-36-inches.html

or the "100gr" tube
https://www.greenstuffworld.com/en/green-stuff/6-warhammer-green-stuff-modelling-putty-tube-bar.html

I can't seem to find what the actual mass of the tape is. (and there don't seem to be any stores selling GS for a cheaper price in my country)
>>
>>81723564
The bar sucks ass, gets stuck in the tube and dries out if left out of it because its not packaged in a way that really lets you close it again.
>>
>>81723632
I was thinking of taking the stuff out and putting it in some sealed container, also my experience with the GF9 tubes was fine until they fell uner the couch.. Any idea how much more stuff is in the tubes?
>>
>>81723473
You might want to clean up the green stuff on his legs by adding more to even it out or maybe some texture and paint it rust. It looks fine now but when you prime and paint it or will stick out like a sore thumb.
>>
>>81723473
Looks cute, now I want to make one (and I have so many other projects going).
>>
>>81717294
>Is the trick in simply sealing them up really well with a shot of Testor’s glosscote before a shot of dullcote
Lmao good luck, testors stopped making dullcoat last yeat
>>
>>81706174
>the little dudes on top for scale
god damnit it's so good
>>
>>81723564
I have the strip, but I'm not a home rn. I'll weight it when I get there
>>
File: IMG_20211010_232620.jpg (2.65 MB, 4032x3024)
2.65 MB
2.65 MB JPG
Just fucking getting paint on the brush no matter what. Worked through a mini panic attack tonight. Damn this thing is fun to paint so far. Delicious tedium.
>>
>>81724942
Also I'm too retarded to rotate the photo, or focus on the torso instead of the groin
>>
>>81724942
What's this from? Looks cool
>>81724964
You just need to crop or rename it
>>
>>81724964
You knew what you were focusing on.
>>
>>81724942
OwO what's this?
>>
What's a good digital way of testing colour schemes? I wanna pick something for my Chaos Marine dudes
I almost want to take screens of GW's pictures, grayscale them, and colour over them in paint.
>>
File: KDM_dung_beetle_knight.jpg (126 KB, 837x600)
126 KB
126 KB JPG
>>81724987
>>81725186
>What's this from? Looks cool
KDM Dung Beetle Knight
>>
>>81700647
>he's too lazy to base his minis
>>
File: IMG_1984.jpg (6.85 MB, 6000x4000)
6.85 MB
6.85 MB JPG
>>81721989
here are some for a commission I did.
>>
File: iamalpharius1.jpg (395 KB, 2008x1078)
395 KB
395 KB JPG
Current wip of my AL boys. Stormhost Silver over Leadbelcher. The question is, do I put some Nuln oil over them before I continue or do I trust the magic of Citadel Contrast Paint™?
>>
>>81724011
Working on it, will add rust to it most likely.
>>81724391
I admit I got around that problem by limiting myself...Right now I got a total of three projects going, this is one of them, and one is just not finished because it's there as emergency in case I ran out of what to paint.
>>
>>81725444
Nuln Oil the silver parts , then contrast over the armour
>>
File: pmc guard.jpg (329 KB, 1500x593)
329 KB
329 KB JPG
Testing out schemes for my custom pmc regiment.
>>
>>81725658
Okay rumblers, let's get rumbling.
*power drill jams*
>>
>>81725658
>even the bases are third party crap
You're the s o i guard fanboy meme personalized.
>>
>>81725658
I like1 and 5.
>>81725803
You sound like the reason no one plays 40k any more.
>>
>>81725658
>when you have to get it on
Where did you get these boys?
>>
>>81725418
Nice. How much do you charge for commissions?
>>
>>81725932
Hexenheim stormtroopers from victoria miniatures with bulletproof mask heads from anvil industry.
>>
>>81725957
Very nice, thanks.
>>
File: FBp-wO-VgAIDaRA.jpg (379 KB, 1438x1248)
379 KB
379 KB JPG
>>81711814
he fits right in
>>81725658
Far left dude is the best imo
>>
File: killdozer primed.jpg (263 KB, 2016x1134)
263 KB
263 KB JPG
>>81726318
I've also finally got round to priming the killdozer and its crew, will be airbrushing on the basecoats and camo this weekend hopefully
>>
>>81725957
I feel like you've missed out by not going for bodies that can be converted to have one arm extending outwards with a closed fist
>>
File: IMG_20201011_144507_343.jpg (123 KB, 1080x1080)
123 KB
123 KB JPG
>>81714917
Woah I just noticed one of my minis made it on the collage
>>
>>81714917
>posted several terrible faces
>none made it in
Dont know if i should be happy or sad
>>
>>81727122
That looks great though.
>>
File: Olm.png (177 KB, 294x339)
177 KB
177 KB PNG
>>81727220
>>
>>81727220
The collage isn't necessarily "bad", just funny looking faces.
>>
>>81724942
Lovely green, anon.
>>
>>81725444
Nice. Did you cast them yourself?
>>
>>81728998
What. No. It's just metallic paint.
>>
Bundle that has a johnny
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/403228594566
>>
>>81725444
Well shit I put on too much contrast paint on the leader's shoulder because I could see the brush strokes. It's really really dark now. Is there a way to unfuck this?



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.