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File: WIP_johnny_ink_large02.jpg (160 KB, 1280x870)
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No WIP thread on /tg/?!? Emperor's Teeth! That's HERESY!!!

>NEW! Citadel Contrast Paints Comparison
https://mega.nz/#!Knh13Y6Z!aSnZnSo9sgZij00IT2WX6KCA-4MUmeJlNdwvVnrG3cI

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Weathering hobby magazines
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palettes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DMPPqgeZKk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>Who's Johnny, she said, and smiled in her special way
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Johnny

>Making some awesome banners:
https://robhawkinshobby.blogspot.com/2012/05/modeling-banners.html

>Previous Threads:
>>67180392
>>67148981
>>67119653
>>67069167
>>67046154
>>
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>>67193653
>>67201838
Please help a painting brother out.
>>
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I need a new 00 brush and I bought one in the scale75 kickstarter but I still dont have tracking info for it

Should I just buy a new W&N? Theyre disposable on a long enough timescale
>>
>>67206085
Are those cheap plastic palettes known to have a lot of absorption? If so, how would I use a glossy white tile; just spread a lil' water 'round it? If not, what's the difference?
>>
>>67206760
Thats a new one for the reaction images
>>
>>67206889
They do stain over time so the palettes arent immune.
Yeah just take some paint, dab it on the tile and do the same with water.
>>
>>67207143
Ah, I see. Thank you. I'll go and see what kind of tile I cant get cheaply at Castle.
Either way, not using cardboard anymore will be nice.
>>
>>67207094
You dont get better at eyes without painting them poorly first

Please stop mocking me every time I post for them
>>
>>67206760
Don't leave whites in the upper eyes. Even if intentional. It looks really weird.
>>
>>67207247
You need a magnifying glass. Not just for eyes, you need to learn how your paint applies, it's pretty thick.
>>
So since GW once again goofed on predicting demand for a new product line, I'm in need of a paint-on color that's close enough to Grey Seer to work. Does anyone know something similar? Any paint line will do.
>>
Has anyone here know how hard is it to file the shoulders off of one of these little shits?
I've surfed the google and haven't been able to find an image of a pauldronless Stormcast
Not just pic related too, any of Stormcast would do
I've never owned one of them, thinking of a conversion but I would rather not go through with the purchase if it's going to be too much of a pain in the ass
>>
>>67207388
Are the pauldrons attached to the arm or seperate? Check the sprues first imo. Not the monopose ones either.
>>
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>>67207263
My brush is too beat up to get more accurate than that

>>67207283
Pretty sure youre looking at errors that happened when I airbrushed mr hobby paints, not when I was hand brushing afterwards

There's an argument that I should have stopped and stripped the paint but I didnt.
>>
>>67207388
Most of the non-snapfit kits come with seperate pauldrons, it's a space marine situation. That said, the ones that ARE attached are a big motherfucking chunk of plastic. You'd probably be better off clipping them off and then sanding what's left.
>>
>>67207417
Do you clean your brushes?
It will be pretty hard to do it without a detail brush, at least dotting the eyes.

But you can try drawing a line down the eyeball and then painting over the lids.
>>
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Working on some CSM after getting inspired by the Fabius Bile books. What do you think of them thus far?
The guy in the back left is the Chaos Lord who'll lead them to war.
>>
>>67207448
I do, but my 00 is over a year old, the bristle deteriorates. My original post was about needing to buy a new one m8
>>
Update on the noise marine.
I decided to go with more green, probably going to make the cables blue, but want it in more places. Suggestions?
>>
>>67207417
Showing the white all the way around the iris makes the model look startled or frightened. We call these "Runaway Bride Eyes".
>>
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*Cracks open a new can of Rustoleum*
Yep, nothing like a nice 3.99 can of primer
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>>67207529
Don't got no suggestions but that is one purdy noise marine!
>>
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>>67206760
>>
>>67207515
Is it synthetic?
Year old sable brushes should still be good with maintenance.
>>
>>67207529
Maybe make the guitar wood a color besides black. Kind of a dull scheme with the green.

Looks well done though.
>>
>>67207602
I didnt get brush cleaning agent until last december, so for a long time it wasnt getting optimal maintenence. The tip still sticks together but was coming out as a little flattened instead of a point and doesnt want to cleanly discharge paint
>>
>>67207672
Wood might not be a bad idea.
Like an ebony or rosewood?
Anyone have the knowhow to do that?
>>
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>>67207789
Brown with a bit of the red you used for the helmet mixed in. At like a 5:1 probably. Also looks like orange.
>>
>>67207529
amazing, very clean and love the color choice. glad to see chaos taking over wip
>>
>>67207851
I'm set on keeping the green flame, but I think that would work very nicely so long as I don't fuck it up. Thanks anon. I'll post updates sometime tonight when I get a chance to work on it.
>>
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>>67206760
>>
>>67207415
I've been slow today, I don't know why I haven't even thought at looking at the fucking sprues before asking here

>>67207443
After some looking, none of them come with the pauldrons separate. It's either, they're on and it's going to be a bitch and a half to remove it OR it comes with the pauldron split into 2 pieces but still attached to the body and both body/chest with pauldron are split down the middle

Of to ebay I guess
>>
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>>67207851
>>67207672
Alright, I found a rosewood that I can get behind. I'll try to get close to pic related, wish me luck
>>
>>67208024
Noice. Just make sure that will look good with the scheme.
>>
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Only one left, first first box of 40k ever. Gonna use them for kill team, pretty new to painting so C&C needed. Any tips on how to base?
>>
Procrastinated on priming these tiles quite a bit. The way I wanted to build the tile set for a ruined building didn't quite work out either, so I have to try something else.
>>
>>67207486
What did you use for the techpriest's mechadendrites?
>>
>>67197765
3d goliath truck anon, would you mind posting your cad files for those? I really like the two variants you got going there.
>>
>>67207247
go post on reddit if you don't want people to laugh at funny painting mistakes
>>
>>67208364
I also started work on some Berserkers for a World Eaters Kill Team, using mostly the CSM from Shadowspear, on which I tried some stuff beforehand. The heads are not final, and the Berserker in the middle would look a lot less derpy, if I had noticed, that I tacked it on wrong. Not having overly long necks will help them all too.
Had a lot fewer right arms that worked with the models left than I thought. Knew that for the helmets from the Skullcrusher kit. Tried making a two part bluestuff mold for the first time, found out that the paper from foam board sticks to it, so I'll have to dig out my Legos at some point.
>>
>>67206753
yeah sure
I believe that is either a pigment or slow blending
>>
>>67206753
Just looks like a blend from the brown to the green
>>
>>67208554
Forgot to ask here. I'm still undecided on what GW only models to use for Cultists. Either Skitarii, as they would help tie in the team with the largely daemon engine based non-slaanesh part of my CSM, and let me dip into an Admech Kill Team as well. Or just a box of Orloks from Necromunda, that don't run the risk of me branching out into another team, but I'll feel really stupid for not buying the box last week. With Skitarii I run the risk of buying the SCB instead, so I can get the Dunecrawler for a conversion I have planned.
>>
I want to start airbrushing and i need to find a good set. Maybe not something too high as I still need to do a lot of practice first (I will probably also get a cheap pen to learn the basics with). No strict budget, but preferably under 150 euros.
I was initially gonna buy a kkmoon airbrush (last thread) but got told that it is missing a tank lol, also looks like a knockoff?
>>
>>67208770
Orloks for sure
>>
>>67208770
>so I can get the Dunecrawler for a conversion I have planned.
>>
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First attempt on NMM. Not really sold on my version, but I learned a lot so its alright. Happy with the rest of him. Only thing left now is to drill his barrel, color the hilt of his sword, and base him.
>>
>>67207562
They're fucking great. Never had an issue.
>>
>>67208842
take the pic on a black background m8
>>
>>67208869
>>67208869
>>
Anyone try converting recast models?

I know the resin quality probably varies but how hard is it trying to cut apart and rebuild that shit compared to the GW plastic?

Yes I'm asking this because of the latest price hike
>>
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Trying a load of different techniques on some spare terrain.

Defo recommend that if you want to get experimental these crate things are great to just piss about with and not worry how they turn out.
>>
>>67209454
Different resins from different chink/ivan sellers can interact differently with standard superglues. I'd recommend maybe trying uv activated glue if you can't get a good bond. The main issue is if the recaster used super brittle resin you could shatter the model and send a cloud of toxic powder into your lungs.
>>
>>67207877
>that priming job
Anon...why would you even waste your time painting that.
Whats worse if your paint job looks pretty good. Its just ontop of a marine made of tortilla chips.
>>
>>67207877
This reminds me of the chaos space marines I tried to prime from 2 feet away because I was new to the hobby and didn't want to make my models all shiny and detail-less.
>>
>>67208364
For a second, I thought this was a highly stylized winter diorama tileset and was making a paragraph about it looking dry and bizarre. Then I realized you said it was a primejob.
>>
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>>67208259
>>
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>>67208259
And another one.
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>>67208259
And another.
>>
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>>67208259
>>
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>>67209704
Fucking imperials get off my lawn!
>>
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>>67208259
I have so many of this yet my bases are so boring, holy shit...
>>
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>>67208259
More lava stuff.
>>
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>>67208259
And some recycling stuff.
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>>67208259
And now complicated shit.
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>>67208259
>>
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>>67208259
And that's it for today. Now get to work, anon, and post the results when you're done.
>>
>>67210299
The contrast is what really sells it as lava.
>>
>>67208842
Looks convincing.
>>
>>67209704
That's what sprue is for imo.
>>
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Progress on the Lord of Contagion. I'm really fucking happy with the result. Pretty much done, just need to add some rust and verdigris. Next up: some random plague marine.
>>
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>>67210896
>777 KB
>>
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>>67206718
Can anyone tell me how big Kingdom Death minis are? I want to do a Custodes conversion but I don't want anything to look out of proportion

Also posting my favorite /wip/ conversion
>>
>>67211152
>>
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>>67211327
>that marine
>>
>>67211327
So a Custode would probably match up in terms of size eh? Long as the mini is a regular human sized... human
>>
>>67207247
To be fair, that's a pretty appropriate facial expression when encountering some KD monsters.
>>
>>67211152
AND WE ALL LIFT TOGETHER
>>
>>67211152
Hahaha holy fuck I'm glad someone saved that cultist I made. I still have him and run him as the gunslinger character since GW were jews that shoved it in a box.
>>
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Had the evening to paint so bashed out the top cloaks on the rats.
>>
>>67207515
You definitely don't need a 00 to do eyes. I use a 1 and I'm pretty sure Kingdom Death stuff has bigger eyes due to being larger scale than most war gaming stuff. Good tip + large reservoir so paint doesn't dry out on the brush > using a smaller brush.
>>
Added basing to my movement trays and working on ny last 5 Fire Warriors
>>
>>67212677
Hmmm, not sure how I feel about based movement trays. I think they create too much free space and require diorama-like effort for little benefit. They also aggravate the gap between the bases and the game mat if there is one.
>>
>>67212860
I really dont like the glossy clear plastic, but didnt want to leave it blank black. There is little benefit, but it didnt take much effort desu. Just slapped on industrial thick mud from Vallejo and then primered/paint
>>
>>67210896

Consider some glazes to bring down your edge highlights a bit. You've done some fantastically fine work - to a fault, your edge highlights are too strong, particularly on the cloak.
>>
>>67213142
I meant "require diorama-like effort to look good".
>>
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I can't find consistent answers so thought I'd ask here. Anyone know what size magnets I'd need to use to make all the options on the trygon/tyrannofex in this box?
>>
So how are the new contrast paints? Can they be washed over or drybrushed/ highlighted like regular paints?
>>
i got an air compressor without a tank because i didn't ask questions. how difficult would it be to hook it up to one of the portable ones my grandpa had? i'd have to move the moisture trap and stuff, i'm sure.
>>
>>67213511
They have thick arms and the rupture cannon is pretty heavy. For the arms I recommend using a 3/16" diameter disk magnet. No thinner than 1/16"bas they can shatter if you snap them together from too far apart.
>>
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>>67211075
>>67210896
>777
This pleases papa

Messed around with an airbrush for the first time ever. I had it looking nice but then I went and tried doing brighter colors and I killed the contrast and made it worse. That's ok, it's just a rhino - I'll know better for when I do my Plaguebursts.
I'll finish the thing some time in the future, I never really plan on taking a rhino.
>>
>>67213511
>>67214161
I should also add I mean only the tfex/tervigon.
Also magnetize the womb on tervigon and the head as the tfex weapon arms don't sit when attached with the womb and the bladed tfex head doesn't fit with the womb

The trygon is super tricky to magnetize there may be a tutorial, but the head uses multiple parts across each option for reg, prime, and mawloc
>>
>>67208391
Guitar strings
>>
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>>67206718
Imperial Fists flavored Primaris Lieutenant.

Sadly, Zakariah isn't usable in Imperial Fists as only DA primaris lt's can take plasma pistols.
>>
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Finished speed painting the version in the left before I made the mistake of trying to dab away a particularly thick area of varnish as it dried: the cloth clung to the mini and pulled away chunks of paint.

There is no other lesson here. Don't be like me.
>>
>>67214670
I fucked up a gundam model I was working on because sealant tore off some paint. It's a terrible feeling.
>>
Anyone know a good source for 28mm animal skulls? Preferably bovine/equine. Looking for something a bit more economical than the hexwraith kit.
>>
>>67214172
Start looking into oil/enamel washes/weathering.
>>
>>67214427
>only DA primaris lt's can take plasma pistols.
Blood Angels Hellblaster sergeants can have plasma pistols ... but he can't have a power sword no matter what he does.
>>
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>>67214752
I might, but I paint my DG relatively clean - letting the contrasts do a lot of the work. I had the contrasts before I went in with brighter colors and messed it all up.
Still, since I haven't done that stuff before, the Rhino will probably be a good learning tool to do them.
>>
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>>67214760
Just wanted to paint some Fists to be honest.
>>
Trying to get back into the feel for painting gobbos, heres a loonboss/warboss I finished up. How'd I do? Sculpt isnt as detail as the banner I just did but very nice regardless.
>>
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Do I chop the servitors off my Dragoons like in pic related?
I really like the lil robot dude you can make with the bits (again, like in pic related) and I'm not 100% sold on the gimp. On the other hand, the model looks a little plain and a little barren without him.
Any opinions? I know I can do it, it seems really easy, but I'm not sure if I should or not.
>>
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about to attempt my first harlequin pattern. Wish me luck
>>
>>67215591
You can do it, anon!
>>
>>67215308
Id just find a way to enclose the gimp. It was kind of a weird design choice that Id expect more for Dark Eldar or dark mech
>>
Any retributor armour spray alternative?
>>
>>67216087
Tamiya has metallic gold spray.
>>
>>67216110
Thanks, I'll try to find one.
>>
>>67216110
I was about to say "Tamiya sprays probably aren't that much cheaper than GW" but then I actually checked the price for retributor armour spray and holy fuck, how can people be dumb enough to pay that?
>>
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>>67215591
>>
>>67214823
Wow that's sharp
>>
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Got another one done. 4/10 and one more left for the first unit. Getting these done pretty quickly now. I scheduled out painting the rest of my army and it'll take 40 something days as long as I don't skip any days. Which I probably will.
>>67216773
I'll admit as to while I'm super happy with my paintjob on that, the picture does elevate it in how good it looks.
>>
>>67207486
Oh, if anyone have any suggestions on how to build the other five CSM apothecaries/flesh sculptors I'd love to hear them!
>>
Update to the guitar!
Overall, I like it. I went with, apparently, walnut in color and I don't think it came out too bad.
>>
>>67217896
rad! \m/>_<\m/
>>
>>67217896
Damn, that's straight up wood. Crazy good work, how'd you do it?
>>
>>67217969
Mournfang brown base, then I used the contrast paints cygor brown and black templar in streaks, then a mix of mournfang and white to highlights and lighter grains. I put a blue glaze over it, gonna add another layer to tint the wood a bit more.
>>
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>>67218039
Cheers.
Tutorial anon, save this shit.
>>
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finished the buckler for my upcoming Knight Gallant.
Will be used to represent the Sanctuary relic.
>>
>>67208824
I want to do the Dunecrawler Armiger conversion everyone and their mom has already done, only with a Reaver from AT. If anyone has a size comparison between those models that would be great.
>>
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>>67206760
Congratulations you made it to the collage!
>>
>>67218890
Something tells me this collage is going to double once SoB comes out and everyone attempts to paint faces
>>
>>67218890
Some of those really, really aren't that bad.
>>
>>67218918
a few of em look fuckin scared if anything
>>
>>67218918
Being bad is not the (main) point, it's being amusing. Pretty sure that costanza-looking DA dude is the GW-painted one.
>>
>>67218912
I'll just keep making the canvas as big as it needs to be.
>>
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>>67218890
I know the guy that made the genestealer that looks like he's seen some shit. The thread that day was almost entirely greentext fluff about him.
>>
>>67217896
Swanky as fudge, mate!
>>
>>67218890
>tfw you never paint eyes unless they're xbox huge on models.

Fuck doing that, ever.
>>
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>>67218890
Saw the lady on the right side in a sale recently and thought about you.
>>
>>67206718
Reminder lads to fit in some exercise into your day;

Healthier body leads to longer life which leads to more gaming time.

Have fun lads/ladies.
>>
>>67208259
>>
>>67219369
there's more than one person updating that collage now, I started it but havn't updated like half of those pictures
>>
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>>67213237
Done. Toned down the edge highlights on the cloak, didn't think you were right, but it looks way better now. I could probably tone it down more, but I'm happy where it's at. Don't want to tone down the highlights on the green armour, I really like the look it creates.

Added rust and verdigris, cleaned up tiny things. Calling him done. I'm really happy with his look and I learned a lot. I tried to not overdo the gimmicky stuff like rust. This is actually my first WH40K mini, never ventured outside Kingdom Death thus far.
>>
Always loved the Red Butcher models from 30k, any ideas how I can translate these guys as Mutilators in 40k without the unnecessary overgrown / grafted Fleshmetal look?
>>
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>>67218890
>Still no cheezits.
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>>67219850
paint them in your armys colors and find an opponent that's cool with proxying them.
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>>67210599
I tried osl on sprues once and it just turned out shite because there wasn't enough space. Then gluing multiple sprues together seemed a waste of glue
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>>67218890
Isnt it wrong to add a face if its not on a finished mini?
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>>67206718
The force grows.
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>>67219850
Just use them.

Officially the mutilators models aren't fit for purpose because the sizing of the new obliterators would suggest mutilators are massive.

Which means any model that matches the current profile of "terminator armour and close combat weapons only" is a suitable proxy until an official model comes out.

The other option is crank up the weapon chains to 11 and add in only a little bit of flesh work to show they are in the early stages of their transformations.
>>
>>67218890
Yes, I'm on there!!!
>>
>>67207529
Awesome...Awesome to the max.
>>
>>67220081

I was thinking of just kitting out cataphractii terminators with claws and attaching axe blades on their arms and servitor arms with chainswords at the end or tyranid scything claws.

>little bit of flesh work to show they are in the early stages of their transformations.

Would definitely add a little fleshwork around the arms and claws at least.
>>
>>67220073
>no primaris
nice
just need to get rid of the knight now
>>
>>67212677
me on the right pointing :)

>>67212860
agreed. I'm not sure about them myself

>>67213142
You can get MDF ones from most other retailers like Wayland Games. They might be cheaper than the plastic ones too
>>
>>67220149
Thanks.
>>
>>67219104
C'mon, son.
I painted halfway decent eyes on Nolzurs halflings. Those things are fucking TINY.
If I can do it, so can you.
>>
>Keep finding extremely good deals online
>Don't want to buy any more models before i paint my old ones but the deals are just too good.
What do i do bros?
>>
>>67219552
Looking really good, anon. Nice job.
>>
>>67220353
Just buy them.
>>
>>67220353
Buying at a good price makes your collection grow at least, you can work at your own pace later. Beats refusing to buy anything before you finished your backlog and then either missing models forever or paying ridiculous prices.
>>
>>67220364
>>67220437
Ended up buying them, now my ridiculous backlog has grown yet again.
>>
>>67220353
If they were things you were planning to buy anyways, then grab em. If you want them just because they're good deals, dont buy em.
>>
>>67220481
Well most of them were things i need, even if i exclude the ones i don't need i ended up paying more than 50% less than form GW
Implying i play more than 1-2 games a year.
>>
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>>67220568
You dun messed up son.
>>
>>67220073
This is why I stay away from grey color schemes and black bases. I'm sure they look fine up close but the bases look unpainted in the photo.
>>
Any descriptions of the surface of metalica other than “it’s metal hurhur”? Trying to come out with a plan for the base. I like the little pillars but can’t decide on the ground
>>
So for a while I’ve been in sort of a dilemma here, I have my Gorkanaut I want to paint yellow but I noticed how hard it is to paint yellow over black, and I want to know what would be the best option.

>1. Apply a coat of Zandri dust all over the chassis/plates like i did with the rockets, then Averland Sunset, shade, etc.
>drybrush Averland sunset like in that ‘how to paint a Morkanaut’ guide Warhammer tv did.
>strip the whole thing and prime it wraith bone (I heard Contrast primer is much more smooth than regular primer.)

Sorry for bad quality, phoneposting
>>
>>67219001
You need to post some of those greentext
>>
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>>67220755
>>
>>67220935

Averland goes fine over black, it may take 3-4 coats to get it even, but it will. I saw an interesting video tutorial once that sort of cheated on yellow for Orks by doing the averland base coat, drybrushing screaming skull over it, then cassandora yellow shade over everything. It wasn't the richest looking yellow and obviously applying the shade over everything made for some streaking and pooling but it's not an inappropriate look for Orks.
>>
>>67220986
thatll fucking suck to make god damn
>>
>>67221227
Cardboard that you then texture to look like metal should work, or foam.
>>
>>67217896
The guitar is now the best part of that model. Great job on it!
>>
>>67220935
I say strip it and use the white primer
>>
>>67220659
I could give them a lot more love. That might be something I do soon.
>>
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Finishing up a plague Marine. Anything i should change before i base him?
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>>67221814
is he not too....clean?
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>>67221814
can't see anything obvious at first glance, good job anon !
>>
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>>67221872
Do you have any suggestions?
>>
>>67220935
how about airbushing yellow on it?
>>
>>67221814
>>67221961
good job anon


but i am so fucking tired of that stuipid vomit green for death guard...
>>
>>67222087
over a thick black undercoat like that? you absolute madman
>>
>>67222120
just do 2-3 thin coats

would a second undercoat in white/wraithbone fuck up the model? or would the anon need to strip with iso?
>>
>>67214863
DRILLLLL BARRELLLSSSSS! HISSSSS!!!!

>>67220034
I hate to say this because it may be outside of your control, but... your undercoat really sucks.
>>
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Change of pace from my rats painting this scaly boi, cant take a good picture if my life depends on it, shitty camera. Opinions?
>>
>>67210448
A slab of cork sitting on a circular base always looks like shit to me.
>>
At what point in the painting process of tanks do you apply decals? After the first wash and drybrush?
>>
>>67222471
final step
>>
>>67220935
Rustoleum yellow primer, then your yellow. Or use white primer. Black primer is Aids to paint light colors over
>>
>>67222493
Got it
>>
>>67222530
>Black primer is Aids to paint light colors over

Black primer is MEGA AIDS to all colors even the dark ones
>>
>>67222225
I think it's the anon that keeps posting pinups with the same poor undercoating, if it is people keep telling him to redo them every time.
>>
>>67207247
Then grow a thicker skin, or stop posting on a board full of nitpicky grognards until you are actually competent.
>>
>>67206760
If your brushwork is as poor as it seems, getting a new small brush isn't going to help you. Generally a size 1 is the smallest size you need, size 0 in an absolute pinch, as ultimately a larger brush will have better control and hold/transfer paint better.
Just practice your brushwork, and eventually even eyes will be no problem with a crisp size 1.
>>
>>67206760

absolute garbage paintjob. if you lack the critical thinking to see whats wrong with this then you are never going to become a good painter.

also see, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dunning%E2%80%93Kruger_effect
>>
>>67218890
This will never not make me laugh, and I'm still proud as fuck that my mini made it on there.
>>
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Testing out a scheme for a mercenary company.

Not sure how I feel about.
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>>67223007
choice of colors works, however the paintjob is sloppy and shaky for the most part, and i see some thick spots there, few passes of cleaning it up would do a world of wonders, good job otherwise
>>
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I may have overdone it with the charms, but otherwise what do you guys think about my conversion?
>>
>>67222941
which one?
>>
>>67222376
loooooks gr8
>>
>>67221227
Just do it like GW does their blackstone bases.
>>
Stupid question /wipg/ but I want to wash my model blue, but worried drakenhof nightshade would be too dark, would the blue glaze be an alternative or is that soley for tinting>
>>
>>67223138
looks nice, could we get a side view ?
>>
>>67222471
>>67222493
Before weathering.
>>
Is there any good Teclis Blue alternative? Crystal Blue from Army Painter is like 4 pound which is way more expensive than Citadel and all the Vallejo are rather dark.
>>
>>67222376
Fukin sick bro
>>
>>67223287
I would say the glaze is too tint-y. Why not do a practice wash in only the recesses and see if the too-dark thing is only in your head?
>>
>>67223287
Maybe just try a pin wash, glazes are decent but they don't work like washes and could stain. Maybe try making your own wash using some lighter blue with with Lahmian medium or just any Matte Medium
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>>67221961
Looks great. I would wash those smoke stacks to make them look filthy.
>>
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>>67223324
>>
>>67223138
Dickie
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>>67223525
>>67223520

it's alright, I found an old turqoise gangster gumbo i'd made with a green and drakenhoff, turns out that's pretty much exactly what I wanted.
>>
>>67223614
Is that good or bad?
>>
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>>67208719
>>67208648
WRONG
>>67206753
pop the full picture and zoom in a bit on the leftmost one
>this is an insanely good use of brown glazing/washing
>there was no blending here
>>
>>67223196
The derpy custodes with one eye. I did end up fixing the thing, but now I kinda wish I hadnt.
>>
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Going through my bits, I find I have a lot if these from Ork sprues. What IS this part supposed to be?
>>
>>67224106
Bayonet perhaps?
>>
>>67206753
Honestly just looks like brown with maybe a little purple that's been glazed over the green
>>
>>67222807
Unfortunately a lack of self awareness comes with painting Kingdom death stuff it seems (I say as someone who is waiting to get home to break open my new resin Necromancer boss... Yes I know I'm part of the problem). A lot of the stuff I see posted for it is middling to terrible, but people are convinced their shit is gold because they paid a lot of money for a 'boutique' product.
>>
>>67222765
a new brush might have a better tip though.
>>
>>67224292
Yes, but don't buy 00. You missed my point entirely; maybe you are hopeless.
>>
>>67224106
>>67224146

Yep, it's an orky bayonet for the shootas.
>>
>>67224146
>>67224361
"Stabba"
>>
>>67218912
Judging from those faces, I got a feeling most people are going to use helmets
>>
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While we're talking about bits, does anyone recognize where these wild game rabbit & bird are from? I'm guessing some WHFB set, not sure which one.
Bolt pistol for scale.
>>
>>67224798
Either bretonnian Men at arms/Archers or Empire State troops/Handgunners/Crossbowmen.
>>
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Wanted to try my hands at green stuff. Very early stages of trying to do a "Sogeking" flavoured sniper for my admech and some prototype folds for his cloak.
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>>67220073
Whyidn't you give your vanguard vets jumppacks?
>>
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Finally decided on playing Iron Hands.
Sadly only have access to citadel paints.
Any tips?
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>>67224967
paint 'em black.
>>
>>67220073
Contrast paint
>>
>>67225082
I have to turn my head until my darkness goes
>>
>>67225295
I see all these shoulder pads, I want them painted black.
>>
>>67224842
Im not a fan of One Piece, I had to go google what you were talking about
But so far your head looks pretty fucking neato
>>
>>67225660
No colours any more?
>>
>>67225690
I want them to turn black.

I see these knights stomp by dressed in their coats of arms

I have to turn my head towards my black templars.
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>>67225752
>I have to turn my head towards my black templars.
>>
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So far I'm really liking how this is turning out.
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>>67223138
Is he supposed to look like he is wearing the blade dildo from Se7en?
>>
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>>67226003
BROTHER!
>>
>>67225969
The wood looks really nice, mind charing how you did it?
>>
>>67226509
here
>>67218039
>>
>>67220073
I fucking love army pics like this.
>>
Asked in another thread but are there glow-in-the-dark acrylic paints?

Also is there a tool to use to help me figure out a color scheme for my army?
>>
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>>67226003
I was going for pic related, a bit lower true, but there was already armour there. That being said, I can't doubt that >>67226322 has a fcuking fantastic idea. Maybe I can lean into it with a bit of Blood for the Blood God?
>>
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>>67226876
>are there glow-in-the-dark acrylic paints?
Yes.
>help me figure out a color scheme for my army?
Dawn of War or this
https://www.dakkadakka.com/core/painter.jsp
>>
>>67211465
Still mad at what they did to Thursby
>>
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>>67207529
Nice! Mine is getting there too. Pretty fun but useless model.
>>
>>67228421
sick
>>
>>67228421
>pauldron
man I wish I had the skill to make one of them into a Spinal Tap reference
>>
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Started work on an Imperator, as why not.
>>
>>67221814
breddy gud.
I feel like you should consider adding some kind of detailing to the rim of the plate the cathedral is mounted on as it seems like a stark horizontal line in the model that kind of telegraphs the conversion.
Aside from that this looks really nice. Clever use of parts on the cathedral too.
>>
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>>67229326
Looking pretty sweet, anon
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Decided to make my own weirdboy from leftover bits. Thoughts?
>>
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>>67207094
>>
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>>67229653
>>67229326
Great model, equally great meme
>>
>>67229706
looks a bit static; almost in full t-pose. if you have experience in sculpting, take some wire and repose him in some sort.
>>
>>67207247
>Please stop mocking me
your feeble resistance only makes us want to bully you more
>>
>>67229970
This is only like my second converted model of the sort, how does something like that work?
>>
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>>67224967
Edge highlight with Dark Reaper then edge the corners with fenrisian grey.
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>>67229326
All it needs is a small church modeled at the feet.
>>
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Working on my Dark Mech stuff, only got the base colours down but I'm happy with how they are coming along so far. I don't have the plasma guns I need for them yet though.
>>
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>>67229326
I like it. I suggest adding detail on the "plate" below the cities of death/titanicus terrain. It's just a big horizontal bar right now. Even a half-dowel of plasticard or a few skulls and cables would break up the block. Similarly, tiny hanging cranes, gantries, etc. help with scale.
The waist joint could also use reinforcement.
>>
all the white sprue connections are actually shaved down
>>
I'm trying to think about shoulder pads that would fit the aesthetic
>>
But yeah I made hinges with magnets or circular pieces
>>
>>67230311
They are looking really good so far.
>>
>>67211152

What mini is this? Where can I get it?
>>
>>67206718
More fucking about
>>
>>67230734
That's a fucking COOL pose.
>>
>>67230885
I think you're going a bit nuts with the washes. Probably want to use a smaller brush and stick just to the joints and crevices, not to the entire panel. Look up "pin wash".
>>
>>67230854

To me it looks like a resin arbite or something? Maybe I'm wrong though...
>>
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I've been watching loads of How to Paint videos even though I won't be able to buy an army (if I do at all) for quite a long time. How do you personalize them? The guides all make the minis look SICK, but I'd rather not have the garden variety paint job. But we all start as complete noobs, so if I go my own way it'll look like trash. Also, I love the idea of adding detail on minis from particularly memorable games, but don't know what that'd look like besides like, a blood splatter.
>>
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my cat keeps trying to drink my paint water when i'm not looking
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>>67230854
>>67231291
genstealer cultist with HH mk3 plasma for a head
>>
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>>67231326
you can't really teach cats.
Just hope it tastes awful and she learns her lesson.
>>
>>67231326
Put a drop of peppermint oil on the outside rim of your paint water pot (not in the water, that'd be crazy).
>>
>>67231428
Thanks man. I just started looking into tt yesterday after 14 years of abstinence.
I want to build a diorama and am looking for humans in non imperial uniforms from militias to cultists.
Those genestealers have got some intriguing weaponry and body parts for my purposes but come with all that tyranid shit unfortunately.
>>
>>67231555
check out necromunda models
>>
>>67231555
they are great conversion fodder.

If you really just came back to the hobby check out the Blood Bowl and Necromunda ranges out as well. GW has plastic models for the games now.
>pic related is a Blood Bowl human with SM arms and an Adeptus Mechanicus head
>>
>>67231473

No, just replace the water with antifreeze. Works like a charm, every time.
>>
>>67230734
Ingenious work anon. How did you go about doing the knees and the wings? Elbows + hips look pretty straightforward.
>>
>>67231640
but then the temptation to drink it myself would be too strong
>>
>>67231601
>>67231589

>Necromunda

The Orlock ans Cawdor gang appear to be the most useful out of the bunch.
I am mostly interestes in settings where our lived reality intersects with the sci fi of 40k so I am not looking for stuff that is too outlandish.
>>
>>67231640
Cats are already liquid at any temperature. They don't need glycols.
>>
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>>67230089
use a knife to cut the limbs at the joints, then use a dremel drill or other hand drill to make a hole in the connection point. using some wire, connect the two pieces of the arm or leg and glue em in, then sculpt the knee/elbow. pic related explains it better than my words
>>
>>67229653
>>67229935
>>67230250
>>67230458
Cheers guys. I still have a bunch of detailing to do, so that plate edge won't be blank. Still need to source a whole bunch of cables and so on.
>>
>>67232171
Greenstuff rollers and electric guitar strings for life.
>>
>>67232178
Yeah I have the rollers, I just need to get more gs. Ended up using the last of what I had on the door on the shin, which is why there's only 1 currently.
>>
>>67232171
make sure you add in some eagle gargoyles too!
>>
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>>67231310
Take it slow, buy cheap shit, practice practice practice, you'll get it eventually
>>
R8 me
>>
>>67232178
>>67232194
never used them personally but I've heard a lot of good things about guitar strings, how expensive are they ? Any brand that's recommended ?
>>
>>67232416
I just get them from local metalheads when they change out their strings. Just ask anyone you know who plays an electric guitar.
>>
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>>67231310
Basing and poses are a good way to personalize stuff. All I did was put a spare ripper and bam theres a whole scene there.
>>
What would you reccommended someone get if they wanted to start painting? Basic brushes and some essential paints? Or a good amount of everything? Obviously I wouldn't spend 2000 on GW entire collection of paints, brushes, pad/handle/water pot, but I don't want to get like 6 paints and then have shit shading, highlights, weathering, etc. Also, as expected of going into painting for the first time, I have no idea I should be spending on paint regularly anyway. Obviously I'd only buy essentials for whatever army I'd buy, but some guides have like, 20 Or 30 different paints to get the best look, and although having a really detailed model would be awesome, I can easily see it being a waste of money and more heretically, a waste of paint.
>>
>>67232439
nice, if used strings are just as good, I have quite a few friends who play
>>
How does woodstain differ in use from Army Painter's dip?
>>
>>67232388
>28mm napoleonics
Either boomer/10 or retard/10.
>>
>>67233098
Base strings is what you want, used are fine
>>
>>67232586
You could write a thesis on what's good for a beginner. You need side cutters and an art knife for getting parts off sprues/cleaning them up and you can get those from almost anywhere. Art/craft stores will have zillions of brushes. Most people tend towards sable hair brushes, but they're a bit more expensive and will wear quickly if you don't take care of them. Synthetic brushes are a bit cheaper and hardier. Choose based on how you feel. I'd recommend a size 1 and a size 2 to start with and maybe a broader flat brush for dry brushing (don't go expensive on this since it will get fucked up). Going smaller is not really necessary and can be a trap for new painters since keeping a sharp tip is more important than overall size. You can get a can of spray primer from any hardware type store (Rustoleum is a commonly recommended brand, but it's not the only option). Grey or black are your best colour options for primer. You can look up tutorials for making a cheap wet palette or just get a cheap, traditional dry palette from the art store if you want.

As for your paints, the only absolute essentials that are probably necessary for a beginner are black and white so you can darken/lighten colours without needing 100 different paints and a black/brown wash since they're easy for new painters to shade with. I wouldn't worry to much about having plenty of colours to highlight with or anything. My suggestion would be to think about what you want to paint and then think about what you want the base colour for everything on that model to be and get just the one paint for each of those colours (for example, it might be primary colour for armour, secondary colour for cloth/trim, a flesh colour, a leather colour and a metal colour or something). At the start it's more important to focus on 1) getting a smooth, solid coat on things and 2) staying between the lines. You can use a wash to add some depth and if you want you can mix some white/black.
>>
>>67232586
>>67233189
One thing that's helpful to do is to look through different brands' paint catalogs to see if there's a colour you like and then if you google image search the name of the paint, you'll often be able to find a bunch of examples of people who have used that paint on a model. I find this can be useful for inspiration and also for just seeing what a paint actually looks like IRL since digital swatches are often way off. Some brands have small bundles that can save you a little bit of money if you like the colours in them. Like I think there are P3 sets based on Warmachine factions with 6 colours in them and I think there are Vallejo sets based on Infinity factions and I'm sure there are others too. A couple of small personal recommendations: Army Painter strong tone and dark tone are equivalent to GW's dark brown and black washes that everybody and their mother uses but cheaper and would be my recommendation if you have the option. For your basic gun metal/silver metal colours I would recommend the Vallejo Model Air metals. I'll say as someone who always advocates against buying GW paints, that if your first 5-6 paints are GW just because you don't want to have to shop around too much at the start that's not a big deal, but after that I really suggest branching out since there's a lot of cheaper/better options.
>>
>>67232586
the vallejo basic usa colors set is a good and cheap way to start
>>
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>>67232100
Thanks for the info friend, I'll look into it
>>
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#5 done; I'll seal the squad tomorrow and flock them up and then take a squad shot.
Might spend the next two days working on the Sorcerer for the detachment rather than starting on the second squad.
Using the Master of Possession as a Sorc with Jump Pack since it's a bitching model.
>>
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painted a malifaux mini tonight. Tried freehanding a pattern on the kimono, pretty happy with the mini overall
>>
>>67233624
The freehand is nice. Why not try some eyes? If you were able to do the freehand then you should be able to do them.
>>
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Small progress on my last burrows and badgers mini, still waiting for the Discworld ones to arrive.
>>
>>67212677
I like em.
Base everything.
>>
>>67234518
I have no idea how you guys make your paints look so dry.
I don't even water mine all that much and they always look like, well, paint.
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>>67235700
I guess it depends what paints you use. But you can dry it with paper or just let it dry a little, well, naturally. I don't really see what you mean. Also, drybrushing was the shit when I started painting so there's that.
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My Anvil Inustries Guard arrived today, Hurrah!

The resin looks pretty standard and the build guide all normal stuff.

Any pitfalls I should watch out for?
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>>67235700
Check if you're using a gloss finish paint
You're not shaking up the paint enough so you're getting less pigment over paint base
Not thinned enough to allow it to dry properly

Pick one, they all cause that wet look.
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>>67232100
>counterfeit Johnny
Heretic!
>>
What’s the best white spray primer?
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Another WIP of my Egg Carton Industrial Complex.

In the back:
A finished piece.
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Anyone have a guide how to paint Death Guard units?
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>>67236087
>Anyone have a guide how to paint Death Guard units?
https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+paint+death+guard
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>>67206718
Like a tit I posted this >>67236610 in the wrong thread.
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>>67208364
Took another set of board shots. Still figuring out how to build the ruined building tiles, and doing some work on the Khorne Kill Team. I will probably get Orlocks for the Cultist. On the other hand, I found I still have a box of Electropriests lying around and won the very loyal robot some time ago. That does make using Skitarii as Cultists more interesting again.
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>>67224024
I'm not even the guy, it's clearly a fucking blend from brown through green, and you're a fucking retard. How the blend was done, who fucking knows. It doesn't really matter what way you do it, in the end a blend is a blend.
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>>67237012
you can see the lines where he started different parts of the glaze, so no. its not a blend, or if it is it is in conjunction with glazes.
>>67206753
as for how to do it, take a brown and mix it with your midtone green and lay it down in the areas you want shade. then glaze over it with a mix of a little brown and your midtone, followed by a more focused glaze in the shadows of your initial shadow color
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>>67230885
Prewetting will get you much better results.
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>>67235700
The finish doesn't matter at all. If you use a dullcoat at the end it will make the whole thing matte.
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My bag of fifteen lascutters to arm my wannabe-Scions with has arrived. Going to cut the Marine arms off and stick them on Skitarii arms.

Bit of flash, bit of warping on the fin-blades at the front, nothing too out of the ordinary for resin I've seen. What's the usual proceedure for fixing that? Wash in soapy water then heat over lighter flame and bend back to shape, right? Not worked with resin much before.

Other than that I just need to carefully cut some Admech rifles off their moulded-on hands so they can hold the body of the lascutters, and work out how to cut three of them down into pistol form so my squad leaders can stylishly laser people as well.
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>>67233157
Depends what you're playing, really. If it's skirmish then 28mm isn't that bad of a scale.

If you're going to paint up a whole regiment it's probably not a good choice though.
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>>67229203
Not that hard. I used nice smooth white base coat, decent small brush and reasonably well watered down paint. Keep it steady, rest your hand on something and take your time.
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>>67229326
Fucking great.
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>>67236073
Nice, it's really starting to come along. I'll be looking for more updates
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So got small backlog of minis to paint and convert, wanted to ask if I could basically do it on here with someone else joining me in..how was that thing called where each one of us must paint a mini?
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>>67206718
How do I strip a failure ? It's paint on my Awesome on the new Battletech box and the dakkadakka link don't seem to work.

Also here my Demogorgon made with contrast paint (gulliman's flesh, the blood one) and a shade of seraphin sepia. First time really paint a mini with contrast only and kinda succeeding.

It's also my first time doing a base with typhus corrosion and zandri dust brushing.
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>>67238504
Butt shot.
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How do you guys prime newer GW models? They have so many fucking layers, and details that get hidden anyway. Do I need to paint every fucking chaos space marine in 3 parts?
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>>67238504
No offense, but the base looks fucking horrible. Didn't even recognize that you worked on it until I read your post. If you want to do your bases fast, get some of that GW sand technical and a wash. Looks good and gets the job done. Unlike whatever you tried there. Moldlines also look shit, but you probably know that.
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>>67238569
>shitty base & mold lines

Yeah I know, but I don't have the tools to fly the fuck of this shitty rubber it's made of. Gonna take the sand technical next time I stop to a GW.

Do you have any way to clean off rubber mini or plastic mini ?
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>>67238676
>rubber
Thought so from his left shoulder. It's almost impossible to clean. Carefully cutting with a sharp scalpel is your best bet, but you WILL cut off too much on certain places. Had the same plroblem with reaper bones minis. I use a scalpel and small files, but going at it with a file will create fringes. With the rubber minis you'll have to accept certain moldlines, but I'd stiill go over the ones on his arms.
For stripping plastic people use all kinds of cleaners. Simple green and dettol brown are the most well known, but you better google that shit, since their composition changes from time to time and the most recent one might not work anymore. Availability also changes from country to country. Honestly, I'd just work on the base and leave the guy as he is. Maybe give him a layer of accents. And then move on to the next mini. Stripping cheap rubber is really not worth it. If you want a good looking demogorg, buy a metal or resin one.
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>>67239017
>Stripping rubber, mold lines and base

I'll look how to since I'm a euro. Thanks for the tip for the mold lines, I'll invest in an exacto knife and try on the second one I have in the exact same shitty rubber.

As for the base I'll look into something more "fleshy" to keep the thematic from the upside down.

Thanks for the advices !
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>>67238504
>the dakkadakka link don't seem to work.
In order to have enough characters for the OP, I had to remove the phrase which reminds everyone that the link to stripping paint at dakkadakka includes the ellipses. Those are *not* there because of a typographical error.

The new Battletech models are plastic, but they're not the hard styrene you might get from other modern manufacturers. It's more like Reaper's "Bones" line, only better because Battletech. Stay away from the heavy caustic stuff like acetone, brake fluid, and Goof Off, and try cleaners like Dettol, Fairy Power, or Simple Green.

We'll need a new thread soon ...
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>>67239479
>We'll need a new thread soon ...

>>67239548
>>67239548
>>67239548



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