[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vr / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / asp / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / wsg / wsr / x] [Settings] [Search] [Home]
Board
Settings Home
/tg/ - Traditional Games



Thread archived.
You cannot reply anymore.




File: 1234565432345654.png (53 KB, 158x150)
53 KB
53 KB PNG
Paint Huffing Edition

>Secret Santa 2018 album:
https://imgur.com/a/UWRYKEq

>Citadel Painting Guides:
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/drb4mezm6792i/not_citadel_nothing_to_see_here

>Figure painter magazine issues 1-36
https://mega.nz/#F!0AIGDAxL!xOT6MK3oiGpBB1pQaNy5lg

>Weathering hobby magazines
https://www.mediafire.com/folder/971c66wpst1pe/Weather

>Paint range compatibility chart across manufacturers
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Paint_Range_Compatibility_Chart

>Painting Videos only
https://mega.nz/#F!fkcliY4L!mhdmIs2lT3mFG3VwoLO8Qw
https://mega.nz/#F!XEJSFDCL!9ZZKiLi6M_wguI1uTpyjPg
https://mega.co.nz/#F!WUsUlSLb!556OumKLhusFd9Fw5dBMdA

>DIY Lightbox
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OyxzC5kqbyw [Embed]

>DIY Spraybooth
http://www.starshipmodeler.com/tech/pa_booth.htm

>DIY Wet Palettes
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_DMPPqgeZKk [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QMPn5po5-m0 [Embed]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=96mjmqWTPfM [Embed]

>How to Moldlines
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A4LZ8iCSkeU [Embed]

>Fuckin Magnets how do they work?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w8Tkw7ttTIo [Embed]
http://www.miniwargaming.com/magnet-guide
http://www.bolterandchainsword.com/topic/297605-tutorial-magnetisation/

>List of mini manufacturers for converting and proxy
http://pastebin.com/p6bVhGsg

>Stripping Paint (yes, the ellipses are part of the URL!)
http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Dakka_Modeling_FAQ:_How_to_Strip...

>Priming With Acrylic Gesso
https://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/Priming_With_Acrylic_Gesso

>Green Stuff Casting
http://fromthewarp.blogspot.com/2011/11/molding-and-casting-shoulderpads.html
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/05/21/rubber-molds-green-stuff/
http://masteroftheforge.com/2012/07/17/green-stuff-cast-shoulder-pad/

>Who's Johnny, she said, and smiled in her special way
https://1d4chan.org/wiki/Johnny

>Previous Thread:
>>63989076
>>
File: birthday_money.png (137 KB, 500x507)
137 KB
137 KB PNG
>>
File: the spice1.jpg (1.61 MB, 2576x1932)
1.61 MB
1.61 MB JPG
finished my first model in about half a year, feels good man
>>
File: the spice2.jpg (1.58 MB, 2576x1932)
1.58 MB
1.58 MB JPG
>>64005326
still have to do the basing obviously, probably tundra to fit the rest of mydudes™
>>
>>64005326
>the spice1.jpg
Neato.
>>
Calling the Messenger of Courage done
>>
>>64005413
>>
File: P1020487.jpg (369 KB, 1200x900)
369 KB
369 KB JPG
I posted this tank I'm working on a few threads ago.
An old Baneblade I got from eBay that I'm repainting. I have a few other Baneblades of my own that I will repaint in the near future too.

One of the things I'm thinking of doing is adding knight shields of different colours to all my vehicles, as they're a regiment from a planet with a lot of nobility (I'll have to work on the fluff there).
My plan is to have the shields coloured after which company they're from, inspired by the Armour Battalion I served in a decade ago.
Blue for first company (super heavy tanks), red for second (tanks), yellow for third (mechanized infantry), green for fourth (whatever that will be), and so on.

I want some feedback here;
Are these large space marine shields I intended to use for my super heavies too large, and should I just go for smaller WHFB Empire shields instead?
Should I do the bit with different colours, or should I go with red shields for the whole regiment, for a more unified look?
(shield not done btw, and not glued in place yet)

>>64005326
What's that green thing? Incence, or some Nurgle-thing?
>>
>>64005429
>>
File: P1020464.jpg (1.06 MB, 2000x1500)
1.06 MB
1.06 MB JPG
>>64005437
Smaller WHFB Empire shields in red, for reference.
>>
File: too_thicc.jpg (30 KB, 758x697)
30 KB
30 KB JPG
>>64005444
checked and nice work anon
>>
>>64005444
>Schrodingers underwear
that really is courage
>>
>>64005326
>>64005343
He's awesome. What does he count as? Tempestor Prime? His glowing eye is fucking cool.

>>64005437
>>64005452
they look fabulous. Good job, anon! Also, yeah, Id say go with the Fantasy shields. The bigger one(the blue one in your previous pic, I assume) looks "wonky". Something off about it.

And if I may suggest, you could make the fourth company be Hellhounds or artillery, let's you round out your force to take on whatever comes at you. Also, giant flamethrowers on tanks are badass.
>>
>>64005452
What do your imperial guardsmen look like?

They actually would look pretty great with that camo and green, how did you do it?
>>
>>64005437
incense, I thought i would have better luck doing a smooth transition of colour in green instead of greys
>>
File: IMG_20190112_015755.jpg (438 KB, 1511x1829)
438 KB
438 KB JPG
>>64005444
And another new project
>>
>>64005494
im using him as a primaris psyker but honestly I just made him because I wanted to throw a bunch of bits together
>>
>>64005437
>>64005452
I love the shields, it really adds the 40k touch to these tanks.
>>
File: P1020152.jpg (1.5 MB, 2000x1500)
1.5 MB
1.5 MB JPG
>>64005494
Thanks! I do have some Hellhounds I'm gonna repaint, and some other various vehicles I can put in 4th company.
I think you're right about the shields.

>>64005497
Also in need of a repainted, but I'm gonna go for that camo I used on the Baneblade, just scaled down (and maybe more splotchy than stripe-y?).
Good thing old metal minis are easy to strip.
>>
>>64005594
I think your stripes would make even the plastic guardsmen stomachable.
>>
File: file.png (1.62 MB, 1000x814)
1.62 MB
1.62 MB PNG
Anyone built any of the new sector imperialis terrain? I wanna see some inspiration.
>>
>>64005526
What size nozzle do you use to do highlights that fine?
>>
>>64005680
I used a Sotar 20/20 with a fine needle which I think is a .2mm
>>
>>64005695
They look great. What scale are they?
>>
where's a good place to find (reasonably priced) sci-fi minis? For starfinder specifically. i know there's a few starfinder box sets floating around, but from what ive seen there's 6 player figures and 2 ships really.
>>
>>64005748
There's a line of sci-fi minis reaper has. Also check the OP cause I know one of those mini manufacturers has a line of random sci-fi minis.
>>
>>64005737
Kingdom death minis are 35mm
>>
File: 5b5.png (230 KB, 716x716)
230 KB
230 KB PNG
>>64005437
>>64005452
>Airbrush
>>
>>64005526
Have you considered doing streams of your work? Or maybe tutorials?
>>
File: 40k Crane .jpg (252 KB, 1196x1472)
252 KB
252 KB JPG
>>64005665
I've built a fair bit of it. It's very nice. For inspiration, I present my bridging crane tower and Imperial Shouting Platform.
>>
File: IMG_5130.jpg (236 KB, 1321x526)
236 KB
236 KB JPG
Finally got my plasma rifle order in, sadly they're fine cast but that's okay. I just put on my haz-mat suit before working on them.
P L A S M A B O I S
>>
>>64005968
Oh yeah for sure. I've been thinking about a face tutorial for a while now. Photos with side-by-side graphics to help explain. I just dont have the time though and I want to spend the little free time I have drawing or painting. Also I have been asked by a friend to come on his painting show on GTM which I might do some time in the near future
>>
>>64006026
hey I remember you
>>
File: I have returned.gif (714 KB, 480x270)
714 KB
714 KB GIF
>>64006099
>>
>>64006026
>I present my bridging crane tower
neat. That would be a nice thing to build a necromunda mission around or something.
>>
File: Have a boy.jpg (3.19 MB, 4128x3096)
3.19 MB
3.19 MB JPG
Fucked up the highlight but I think its fine
>>
File: lad.jpg (3.07 MB, 4128x3096)
3.07 MB
3.07 MB JPG
>>64006245
>>
>>64006148
Yeah, I really want to work on a pack of simple terrain-based missions. Train robberies, fights with traffic passing through the middle of the map, dropping cranes on people, etc.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_015258.jpg (3.29 MB, 4608x3456)
3.29 MB
3.29 MB JPG
First time working with metal, what do you guys think?
>>
>>64006318
The detail on the gun looks amazing, what scale is it? 28mm?
>>
>>64006637
don't want to throw shade at the mini, but it really doesn't strike me as anything unusual.
Take a look at modern historical miniatures, HF or Infinity sculpts and you get the same. If you are use to the more blocky heroic stuff those are a big change.
>>
File: For what purpose.jpg (25 KB, 323x454)
25 KB
25 KB JPG
>>64001516
>cornstarch to prevent pitting
Didn't get around to the thread when it was still alive, hope you're still here - what does cornstarch do exactly? I've never heard of it used for anything with ready mixtures, but I've used it to make silicone molds before (+ caulk).
>>
Is it ok to spray my minis in between rainshowers? or should I just be patient
>>
>>64007139
depends on the humidity in the air, but if in doubt it's better to be safe then sorry.
>>
>>64005452
As much as i like the result and the paintjob itself, the tanks are not to my taste.
They look exactly like german world war 2 tanks which, to me, looks really odd if its a 40k vehicle. Personally i had changed at least one of the colors to something else so it isn't just a copy. But maybe thats just me. Great paintjobs still.
>>
File: 15472914240041248979402.jpg (1.23 MB, 2560x1440)
1.23 MB
1.23 MB JPG
First time painting, how did I do?
>>
I'm using some les' washes on a spess mereen and the video I'm following along with says to use Agrax Earthshade in an area, but I'm not sure what the conversion would be. I have a black for the Nuln Oil and a sepia for the Seraphim Sepia, but the one I have that I think is closest to the Agrax is just called Flesh Wash, which is made with Burnt Umber ink. Agrax is supposed to be brownish, does that sound like it's comparable?
>>
>>64007272
Is this bait?
>>
>>64007272
-There are many spots where out of place paint is dirtying parts of the model.
-The colour pallete is very simple.
-There is lack of detail to differenciate certain parts of the model.
-The face is a tomato.
-No use of wash to get the details going in the arms, the aquila and the backpack.

Well, it went better than my first time painting, at least. Don't get discouraged and keep trying, patience makes the master. Also, did you prime the model before painting it?
>>
>>64006245
>>64006253

I watched this https://youtu.be/khaA0gNY-EU and thought of you, Anon.

:o)
>>
>>64007382
Thanks for the advice and I did prime the model
>>
File: Gravis Captain display.jpg (718 KB, 1951x2400)
718 KB
718 KB JPG
Gonna call this one done.

Now on to the Redemptor!
>>
>>64007498
looks pretty good but your cream aquila and cloak look a little flat compared to the excellent highlighting on the rest of the model
some extreme highlights on the aquila and a slightly darker shade in the folds of the cloak would really bring it home.
Also it could just be the lamp glare but the right pic, it looks like one half of the sword isn't blended to full black.
>>
Rolling to see what I start on next:

1: Eldar stuff
2: Hordes RPG Crocmen and Pigmen
2: DND mini - Fire Giant
4: Gorkanaut
5: DND mini - Dragon
5: Kurnoth Hunters
6: DND mini - Mimic
7: Vulkan He'stan
8: DND mini - Giant rat thing
9: Clean the desk
>>
>>64007272
you look like your paints are ever so slightly too thick
add a drop more water to them when thinning them on the palette and add a 2nd coat if it doesn't cover 100% the first time (see: kneepad)
>>
>>64007872
Clean your desk. Nothing motivates me like getting rid of the crap that builds up
>>
>>64007498
Looks fucking rad as fuck dude. Nice work.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_141354.jpg (1.24 MB, 3264x1616)
1.24 MB
1.24 MB JPG
I have started stripping and cleaning my minis and got this really good looking almost stone statue look on them. How would i go about making them look like this later with paint?
>>
>>64008002
drybrush grey over black maybe?
Or wash light grey down with black in many layers, though it might not look so dusty if you try that
>>
>>64008002
The left over basing on the termie looks like dried leaves. Really adds to the old statue look.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_134158.jpg (2.95 MB, 4000x3000)
2.95 MB
2.95 MB JPG
I'm making a 16-man IG Kill team using the cadian fatigues but catachan-like bare arms and heads as a sort of elite scouting squad.

I've stuck on some off-greys for the fatigues and a slightly dark flesh, but what colour should I do their weapons in? My instinct says black because muh special forces, but it might make the overall model too dark.

Thoughts?
>>
>>64008233
I would reconsider grey to be honest. Because grey has the risk of looking like unpainted sprue from a distance. Especially when you are thinking about making a black/grey scheme
>>
>>64008253
Nah, I'm fine with gray, it will have enough shading and differing times to make it stand out.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_145338.jpg (327 KB, 2082x1115)
327 KB
327 KB JPG
>>64006245
>>64006253
is that the tyradinds that are supposed to look like that one kind of wasp? if so, I love how they turned out, anon, although the orange looks a bit too much in the one photo. if not, still a good job

>daily painting hour:
how are you doing, anons? I've caught up on what I missed last week, those three need some grey on their bases and a drybrush, and I'm calling it done & on to the next threesome
>>
File: all smiles.png (223 KB, 301x356)
223 KB
223 KB PNG
>>64008414
>>
>>64008233
Make them look like DIY spray painted camo patterns with chipped off paint on the edges if you want them to be real operational operators operating operationally in operations.

Alternately, Rhodesian vomit rifle camo, the boomer dad of the above.
>>
File: 1547156708436 (1).jpg (1.08 MB, 2082x2566)
1.08 MB
1.08 MB JPG
Slightly off topic. Does anyone know what the person did to convert the tartaros chest in the pic?
>>
Slowly blocking in colour, god damn i hate this stage, aiming for eventual table top quality, multi colour theme as going for tilian mercenary army, and yes they will be rebased on squares
>>
>>64007498
>>64007819
This is bad advice. The subtlety is what makes this model.

If there’s a critique, it’s on the sword blendingc but not that it doesn’t blend to black. It’s that (at camera resolution) there’s some slight color-banding in the blend that could be smoothed out a bit. But that’s really more of a nitpick.
>>
>>64008703
With the greatest respect anon, I know what I am talking about. This is like having a well executed model with a detail that was just basecoated and left like that.
It doesn't look up to standard for a painter who pulled off 9/10 of the model to a great standard.
You might call it "subtle" but when the model is painted in a highly reflective manner, I expect that representation of light and dark to make it to the rest of the material
>>
File: DSC03361.jpg (1.65 MB, 2592x1944)
1.65 MB
1.65 MB JPG
Got the strapping on my DAs done, guess I'll paint the guns next
>>
File: woodungeon.jpg (1.11 MB, 2998x2410)
1.11 MB
1.11 MB JPG
I'm putting my collected rocket sticks to use in building a Valley Of Defilement/Blight Town inspired Dungeon for HeroQuest.
>>
>>64004807
I just haaaad to fall in love with the thousand sons. These new models take FOREVER but I love them so much. Currently using the Duncan method and adding the first coat of thousand sons blue. Lots of clean up to do on the gold but over all a solid start for my first models in about a year.
>>
File: 20190112_100421.jpg (3.78 MB, 4032x3024)
3.78 MB
3.78 MB JPG
>>64009036
Forgot picture
>>
>>64005899
>painting miniatures in 2019 without an airbrush
>>
>>64009029
But, if it's Heroquest, you'll need to score a movement grid onto it...
>>
>>64009166
Nah, I already established a measuring for movement system for another oneshot a few month ago.
>>
Played mix’n’match all last night with the tub of guardsmen parts I got. I successfully stripped all the old paint off and they somewhat came free of their old glue. Some bits were plastic glued and stuck together so I worked around it. There were random WHFB bits, some of which I had to get rid of, and some of the guard pieces were melted or unusable due to god knows what. I did a lot of filing of moldlines. Today will be greenstuffing gaps and priming.
>>
>>64009256
Interesting tree stacks. Not seen it done like that before, though I do push toothpicks through polystyrene balls on occasion.
>>
>>64009272
Some of the WHFB heads Add some character. These two guys both had plastic glued on heads and they’re interaction cracks me up for some reason.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_180215.jpg (391 KB, 998x1350)
391 KB
391 KB JPG
Lots of cleaning and finally got to put some wash on. Also did some highlights. Still need to think something for most black areas.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_180245.jpg (423 KB, 912x1401)
423 KB
423 KB JPG
>>64009631
Backview
>>
>>64009287
>>64009256
Do you figure he uses kebab sticks cut to length?
>>
>>64009289
>>64009272
I like randomness of the dudes. Got that militia vibe going on. Cant wait to see them painted.
>>
File: IMG_20190111_024019.jpg (1.98 MB, 3120x4160)
1.98 MB
1.98 MB JPG
A way to use some bits.
>>
>>64009685
It seems that way. Rather novel way of doing it though.
>>
>>64005452
really excellent striping and weathering, but I can't say the netting looks good, its just too off scale and immersion breaking, looking too much like what it is (cheesecloth)
>>
>>64009272
Are those metal dudes with weird weapons on the right old necromunda gangers?
>>
File: 20190113_021344.jpg (290 KB, 1929x1337)
290 KB
290 KB JPG
Think I'm about done doing work on this DP before paint.
>>
>>64009904
Yes, three Goliaths.

>>64009646
>>64009631
I dig the highlighting on the book banner piece.
>>
>>64009923
Very cool. I'd remove that finger on the axe and try to reform the hand myself, as I always hate seeing that finger. But even if you don't it looks great.
>>
>>64009923
great stuff! but try to get that finger around the shaft. try using a lighter.
>>
>>64009964
seriously what the fuck is up with that finger? such an awful kit in general, shocked they haven't released another
>>
>>64008032
Do both. Apply grey, wash black, dry brush grey, repeat. Two or three times. I've done it before a bunch.
>>
>>64009964
>>64010003
>>64010006
/wip/:fingering
>>
>>64008770
With all due respect you're a fucking retard and shouldn't be giving advice.
>>
File: s-l1600.jpg (289 KB, 1200x1600)
289 KB
289 KB JPG
OK WIP who stole my Johnny fopr $115 fucking dollars
>>
>>64009685
>>64009854
I would use marked string. But yeah. And those are scouring pads cut in circles getting progressively smaller for trees. It's not used in wargaming much but it's one of the preferred methods for tabletop board games and roleplaying since it's cheap and easy if your modeling skills isn't wargaming standard yet.
>>
>>64010104
Dude anyone who posts painting that quality in this shitty board can handle a bit of direct criticism. I assume he knows his model turned out well. Quit white knighting him especially as he seems to have fucked off
>>
>>64008770
> a detail that was just basecoated and left like that.

the fuck are you talking about
>>
>>64010207
I said it was 'like', not that it was the case.
Please improve your reading comprehension so you don't feel the inane need to call me out on things I haven't said
>>
>>64010174
That's not criticism. You clearly don't know how to paint. And with that advice I assume you never did paint and are busy regurgitating things you heard on wip but don't understand. This board is shitty because people like you give bad advice.
>>
>>64007498
You clearly have the skill to paint better looking lenses dude. Great looking model though.
>>
>>64010247
Careful mate, the mob will move on you. Clearly there's nothing at all to call out on this mode. Don't stick your fucking neck out. People might call you a retard painter

>>64010236
Just fuck off.
>>
>>64010235
Youre a retard sharp contrast makes things look hard. Cloaks are not hard, they're soft. Sharp contrast there would literally ruin the model. You clearly have no clue what the fuck you're talking about.
>>
>>64010260
>Just fuck off.
Actually paint something retard. That person is clearly leagues above you and shouldn't be giving them "criticism".
>>
>>64010262
Please state where I said he needed sharp contrast
I said he should fucking enrich the shadows of the cloak and point highlight the chest emblem you absolute retard
I really don't know why I am bothering to argue with someone who fails such basic reading comprehension
>>
File: 20190112_114641.jpg (1.33 MB, 2160x2160)
1.33 MB
1.33 MB JPG
I liked this one alot! It was fun to paint. I need to get better at painting boltors but they are so borring to paint. Any tips?
>>
>>64010290
Let's see your models then, ultimate moral arbiter
>>
>>64010150
Haha I was considering picking up that lot too
>>
>>64010260
It's the flagwaving troll again dude, he's hooked you, chill
>>
>>64008628
i wouldve molded the shape on with putty and then drill a few holes in to stick tiny beads or brass balls
>>
File: seven_dracos_medium.jpg (68 KB, 600x373)
68 KB
68 KB JPG
>>64007041
>Didn't get around to the thread when it was still alive, hope you're still here - what does cornstarch do exactly?

I use unscented talcum baby powder on mine.

What he's talking about is "dusting" the inside of a mold before you pour the molten pewter into it. Coating the inner surface of the mold where your model will be touching it prevents "pitting" on the surface of the model's skin. I don't have a good picture of what that looks like handy, though, because if my models come out like that, I melt them down and re-use the metal.
>>
>>64010292
Increasing recesse shadowing and brightening highlights isn't creating sharper contrasts. Kill your self.
>>
My Great Crusade fatscale legionnaires are coming along. Next up Alpha Legion.
>>
File: 20171007_215431.jpg (311 KB, 1200x1600)
311 KB
311 KB JPG
>>64010262
>Youre a retard sharp contrast makes things look hard. Cloaks are not hard, they're soft. Sharp contrast there would literally ruin the model

I don't know if that's true amigo.
>>
>>64007272
>Black armour
>Red gauntlets

Brother-Captain Orenthal of the Bloody Gloves Chapter
>>
>>64010300
I would neaten the black, i can see overspill, washing really does help, badab black is really useful to give silver on weapons defonition, will also work wonders on your armour too like in recesses and crevices, honestly stong start anon, keep it up
>>
>>64010310
>Let's see your models then
Get a load of this moron.
>>
>>64009685
I used real tree trunks, no need to paint them and they are nicely shaped already.
>>
File: beekee_land_speeder_large.jpg (120 KB, 1054x1280)
120 KB
120 KB JPG
>>64010150
>OK WIP who stole my Johnny fopr $115 fucking dollars

That looks like a nice lot, but $115 (US, I assume?) is pretty steep ... unless there's a bunch of other stuff like those terminators (and perhaps an old beekee speeder?) in other pictures that we can't see.
>>
>>64007498
Great work, ignore the ‘tard.
>>
>>64010403
>Soft blending from dark to light
Not a sharp contrast. And where you do have sharp contrast it does look hard, like his abs. Nice model though.
>>
File: first model vs good model.jpg (1.43 MB, 1762x1290)
1.43 MB
1.43 MB JPG
Found this fun pic whilst I was tidying up my camera roll
If you ever feel like you suck at painting, stick with it. It's all just a matter of practice
>>
This thread is further proof there needs to be a definitive dictionary on mini painting terms. There must be 5 different meanings to the word glazing alone.
>>
>>64010533
nice. the FW proportions make the "after" even more chad
>>
>>64010533
Which one was your first model anon?
>>
>>64010533
One on left best. Speckle camo ftw.
>>
>>64010584
From memory I think the paint had chipped away due to being in a box for a few years. The thick, OG bleached bone fatigues only stood up to so much tumbling
>>
>>64010561
So the truth of the matter is, you can't learn to paint from taking advice and reading theory alone. You have to actually paint, and what works for you wont work for everybody else. Honestly this is art and we don't have conventions for proper miniature art, unlike canvas painting might. So everybody just shits themselves when someone drybrushes.
>>
>>64010561
>There must be 5 different meanings to the word glazing alone.
I count three... What other two are you getting?
>>
File: Untitled.png (1.47 MB, 2048x996)
1.47 MB
1.47 MB PNG
>>64010533
Reminds me of this one
>>
I want to base m GSC off pf the Branch Davidians, Heavens Gate, and other famous New Age cults. Any recommendations for paint schemes?
I was thinking maybe using the Branch Davidian flag colors (blue armor, white robes, grey pants). I also considered doing some sort of Nike looking design for HG.
>>
>>64010310
>Let's see your models then
That guy is acting like a retard, but this is still the worst non-argument that always gets posted. Please stop.
>>
>>64011397
Let's see your arguments then, ultimate argument arbiter
>>
File: IMG_20190112_174802-01.jpg (1.68 MB, 2500x1768)
1.68 MB
1.68 MB JPG
>>64011329
No advice but I love the idea.
>>64010627
Ha, well regardless it's a nice image in a shitty thread so appreciated.

Still working on this, basecoating done so now to actually have fun.
>>
>>64010660
I've seen it used for smoothing transitions, changing the tint for a whole area, general overall washed, the weird gw paints and basic layering. Admittedly at least one of those were probably from people who didn't know what they were talking about.
>>64010641
True, but it still helps to be speaking the same language when discussing miniatures. In the last week I've seen multiple arguments on this board purely over semantics.
>>
>>64009045
What are those primed with?
>>
File: IMG_0109.jpg (1.56 MB, 3264x2448)
1.56 MB
1.56 MB JPG
>>64007041
Hey I am around, so the bolter on the left I cast without cornstarch, the plasma gun on the right was cast with cornstarch- you dont want to cake it on but get a light dusting so it doesnt fill in the details.
>>64010392
Like what this guy said- I prefer cornstarch babypowder over talc because I read somewhere that talc is cancerous somehow, it clearly works though judgin by those crisp dracos. I have a question for you anon, can you post your mold for draco? I've been having issues getting the moldlines crisp like with the plasma gun
>>
>>64011573
>I've seen it used for smoothing transitions, changing the tint for a whole area, general overall washed, the weird gw paints and basic layering.
Some of those things are the same thing.
>>
>>64011714
I'd say the fact you think so and I don't kind of illustrates what I mean.
>>
>>64011743
Smoothing transitions and tinting a whole areas, are done the same way, the weird GW paints, are just premade glazes, and do the same things. Overall washes are not glazes, since glazes are meant to evenly coat a surface, and washes are meant to pool in recesses. And basic layering is layering, though you can use glazes to perform blending through layering.
>>
>>64009045
Don't know if it's intentional or not but I love the desert feel they have with the golden bases. I've never seen Thousand Sons before now, somehow.

Wasn't Necron initially supposed to be Egyptian or something?
>>
>>64010403
Shit-flinging aside, what's this model, and is that a custom base?
>>
>>64011809
>Wasn't Necron initially supposed to be Egyptian or something?
Kinda? Necrons borrowed from the tomb kings, which borrowed from egyptians, but it was only later on during retcons where the egypt stuff was made proper canon.
>>
So I got his guy here with really pastel hair. How to shade it propperly so it wont look like shit?
>>
>>64011957
With great difficulty. Looks great though.
>>
>>64011809
>Wasn't Necron initially supposed to be Egyptian or something?
The Necrons when first introduced were little more than omnicidal killer robots with a Terminator fetish.
And quite frankly, they worked rather well as nameless, faceless antagonists hellbent on the annihilation of all life.

GW introduced the Tomb Kings derived background in 7th edition, which gave them characters and more background, but took away the charm of .being Omnicidal killer robots...
They even retconned some of best their technology.
Necrons had access to true Inertialess Drive before, which in the 40k universe represents true FTL travel, no warp involvement and no risks, as well as being super fast. A side effect of being controlled by immortal beings that laugh at the laws of physics.
And now, the Tomb Kings derived Necrons are stuck with slower than light torch ships and pitiful excuses for C'tan.

They also had plans to cut the material universe off from the warp forever at the behest of their C'tan masters, and built a friggin' Dysonsphere that even the Tyranids avoided getting close to. All of which are now gone...
>>
>>64012029
What color to use though? I'm afraid anything even a bit dark will fuck it up and make it look dirty
>>
>>64012042
I'm fairly certain the Dyson Sphere is still a thing
>>
>>64011957
Use darker versions of every colour you used to make the hair.
>>
>>64011957
you'll probably have to use 2 different washes and mix them for the middle section
I'd thin any wash you do use down with lahmian and put it in the recesses only so you can control the effect

>>64012061
use blue and red wash, just thin it with lahmian so it is subtle
>>
>>64012070
Maybe, but I doubt it is still the prototype warpless space interface it used to be. Also, how are they going to get to it?
Dolmen Gates were part of the Old Necrons, the new version don't have access to that tech anymore.
>>
>>64012061
I would probably highlight up rather than wash down. You will ruin the pastel effect with a wash in my opinion.
>>
>>64012138
That is a great idea. I'm gonna do it
>>
>>64011957
Gray.
>>
File: IMAG0360.jpg (1.08 MB, 2448x3264)
1.08 MB
1.08 MB JPG
Working on some mark 3 boiz. Making them look REALLY nice so I'm doin em in parts.
>>
>>64012245
nice, Word Bearers?
>>
File: casties.jpg (472 KB, 2048x1536)
472 KB
472 KB JPG
getting there slowly but surely with these castigators, debating using some agrax on the recesses of the white cloak thing they have
>>
>>64012331
The gap on the shouldr is pretty noticeable, When you make the next lot consider trimming the pegs down a bit to try and get a slightly more flush fit.
I think you're right to think about applying more shade to the tabbards, just be careful with how much wash you use, don't want to end up muddying them up
>>
>>64012328
Custom chapter. Imperial Fists decedent.
>>
>>64012422
yeh i hope they never try this push fit idea again for any major box sets. thanks anon will keep that in mind for future
>>
>>64011629
Retributor armor had a spray can and it is amazing
>>
File: 20190112_102916.jpg (3.42 MB, 3081x1939)
3.42 MB
3.42 MB JPG
Is Dish soap the recommended stuff to wash resin with? Just got my order from based China
>>
>>64005899
fuck off retard
>>
>>64012681
Dish soap, lukewarm water.

If you have a ultrasonic cleaner, stick them in there for 5 minutes.
>>
>>64012681
>from China

no amount of dish soap can wash the communism off of them anon. throw them away.
>>
>>64012681
Yeah just Dawn or whatever you got. Did you label the bags after getting them?
>>
File: 1365479352436.png (440 KB, 1030x808)
440 KB
440 KB PNG
>Painting my DE wyches
>Have my mp3 player on shuffle
>About to paint her right shoulder
>This comes on https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7jgED8UOxY
>Have to paint the left shoulder first
>>
>>64013130
don't get it
>>
>>64013130
Definitely not understanding this joke. What does this elevator music have to do with left and right?
>>
File: 1445213657521.gif (1.58 MB, 225x169)
1.58 MB
1.58 MB GIF
>tfw edge highlighting is a lot harder than they make it seem on the utubes
>>
>>64013130

Definitely not understanding this joke. What does this elevator music have to do with left and right?
>>
>>64013172
>>64013214
>>64013238
>>64013254
A series of hentai games on newgrounds back in the day played this music during the sex minigame. You had to touch her body parts in the right order to progress.
>>
>>64013238
Just need to learn the angle of the brush, use the side of the tip and get the paint to rights consistency. It takes some practice but becomes second nature quickly.
>>
>>64008628
Yo! Thats mine. What exactly do you want to know?

Also WIP alpha legion
>>
File: laughgit.gif (75 KB, 1200x1200)
75 KB
75 KB GIF
>>64012909
Spot the airbrusher
>>
>>64013429
Where did you get the AL legs?
>>
>>64013520
Lernaean termi
>>
>>64005899
>>64009062
The four Mortian tanks were actually painted without an airbrush.
>>
>>64009062
>painting minatures in 2019
why even fucking bother?
>>
>>64004807
What do you think guys?
>>
>>64013662
I like the scheme, personally I'd change the eyes to orange or something.
The cloak looks kind of messy though
>>
>>64013662
Could really use some more colors for all the details on the chest and gun, and it looks like your primer might have fucked up on the robe and given it a weird texture but the texture actually kind of looks cool so that's fortunate.
>>
my vroom boi WiP.

i cant find the screen for the cockpit and now im a sad boi :c
>>
>>64013662
Agree with previous anon, lenses on the eyes should contrast the blue of the robes. And personally I wouldn't drybrush the robes (if that's what you did).
>>
>>64013662
Dirty skitter.
>>
>>64013724
>>64013687
>>64013703
yeah, I drybrushed the coat to make it look old, it looks good better in some other models, you can really see how the wind makes it wave
>>
>>64013662
As someone who loves and prefers the muddy, beat up, "in the trenches" look, I like it. But as >>64013687 said, changing the eye color could go a long way and a few spots of gleaming, clean metal could set off the dirty parts.
>>
>>64014016
Something like this?
I have some in a more cleaner look, as for the eye color I don't really know what color should I put
>>
>>64013429
Not that anon, but that is a beautiful shade of metallic blue! How'd you get it done?
>>
>>64013300
Are you talking about THE game, the one everyone and their dog played, or are you talking about the late-comers; those "Meet'n'Fuck" games?
>>
>>64014170
Neon green would probably look good, or a bright pink or red.
>>
>>64014338
meetnfuck
>>
>>64006032
noice spike helm doods too.
question... are 4 plasma guns legal in a game?
or two squads with two plasma guns?
>>
>>64013300
anon, they're still making them
and they're still godawful
>>
>>64011329
I mean it seems like you're already on the right path with the Nikes jokes and the the Dividian colors. You could always use the black/purple of Heavens Gate if you want. I'd just find as many reference images as possible, cross reference them for any reoccuring motifs and go with those.

That said, you gotta do the Nike shoes.
>>
Having trouble picking between green and light blue plates for my blue camo army.
>>
>>64013117
Yes I did
>>
>>64014804
Grey as a contrast, but light blue if you won't consider that
>>
>>64014260
Thanks! Tamiya light metallic blue spray with waywatcher green glaze. Howd he turn out?

Howd
>>
>>64014835
I’ll try mocking it up now
>>
>>64014852
Looks great.

Do you happen to know if Tamiya sells the metalic blue as a standard paint? I can't see me ever using a whole spray can
>>
>>64014835
>>64014940
Like this?
>>
>>64015006
1) Tamiya spray cans for their metallic line are really small (maybe 1/3rd size of a normal spray can)
2) X-13 is probably the close regular metallic paint Tamiya has for it, not sure how close a match it is with TS-54 spray.
>>
File: Threeheadedknight.png (985 KB, 664x835)
985 KB
985 KB PNG
>>64009836
>>
>>64015071
Too dark. Dawnstone or Administratum would probably be better.
>>
>>64014852
It is lovely indeed!
>>
>>64015071
Agreed with >>64015753
>>
File: IMG_20190112_223555.jpg (421 KB, 2752x2064)
421 KB
421 KB JPG
One down, 13 more to go for my kill team

This is the first non-tyranid miniature I've completed in probably 10 years and the first time I've done skin and been happy with the results.
>>
File: IMG_20190112_223610.jpg (423 KB, 2752x2064)
423 KB
423 KB JPG
And the other side, sorry for potato pictures
>>
>>64013477
spot the non-airbrusher.
>>
>>64014706
two squads, four plasma guns, two plasma pistols.
Just didn't photo the bolter dudes
>>
>>64015905
Looks excellent anon
Only thing I can suggest is pick out the fire selector in a different colour, its a cool detail
>>
>>64015905
What rifle is that? 3rd party bits?

Will the boots stay in the same color as his entire uniform? That looks kinda odd desu. Also switch for semi-full auto on the rifle could be either black or silver instead of red.
Besides that he looks really nice.
>>
>>64016058
Bots are the same colour because its camo(?), I'm happy with how they look.

The head, arms and gun are from Anvil Industries (Jungle Fighters), Very very nice mod parts, couldn't recommend enough.
>>
>>64015905
Photos seem fine. Guy look pretty good too.
>>
>>64015905
>>64015935
the wash on his skin is a bit too red for my taste, but in general it's a very nicely done mini
>>
>>64016336
I think thats mostly the camera, it doesn't look anywhere near as red IRL.
>>
>>64014170
Yeah. Even some knicks and dents in similar metals. Or just a touch of the bronze on the shoulder where the army would rub against it.
>>
any tips on how to edge highlight like this? all the little plates etc on the armour
>>
>>64017033
1st highlight on all edges, protrudes slightly onto the armor panel itself. 2nd (lighter) highlight focused strictly on the edges and towards light source.
>>
>>64017074
sorry, I meant tips on how to actually use the brush to do that. I learned to use the side of the brush to do clean, thin edges on things but I can't do that on the chest here. is it just using the tip of the brush and practice? the ones on the torso are very close together
>>
What's the best varnish for space marines?
My method right now is to use gloss and then dullcoat.
>>
Are there any miniatures out there that match the aesthetic of the Guards/Soldiers from Morrowind? Any that could work with some conversion and Greenstuff?
>>
>>64017265
Get a brush where the tip has started to curl and use the side of the curled tip to do it, it gives you the cleanness of using the edge with the precision of using the tip.
>>
>>64017265
Combination of practice and technique. What you want to do is basically drybrushing with the very tip.
>>
>>64017290
You would practically have to sculpt most of the minis, but the actual warhammer fantasy dark elf range would be a good start for proportions.
>>
>>64017307
>>64017323
okay thanks lads
>>
I tried doing a marble effect for the first time
>>
>>64017265
>is it just using the tip of the brush and practice?
Yes.
>>
>>64017290
Drakespawn Knights maybe
>>
>>64017351
It looks nice anon!
>>
File: 20190112_131859.jpg (2.21 MB, 4128x3096)
2.21 MB
2.21 MB JPG
>>64017265
Rule #-1: If there's a single stupid thread coming off of the end of your brush, pull it between your fingers and see if it isn't just some sort of dust you picked up that is trying to fuck with your tip.
>>
File: eh.png (53 KB, 1428x1146)
53 KB
53 KB PNG
>>64017265
heres a shitty mspaint tip
>>
>>64015905
>>64015935
Really like the way you painted the rifle, looks great.
>>
>>64017441
thanks man. I'll do the top way for the first colour maybe and then the bottom for the next two edges
>>
>>64010533
At least you've learnt to use washes.
>>
Are there any active mini forums any more? Everything is on facebook now and I would like an archive of a project outside of a blog no one reads.
>>
File: IMG_1550.jpg (1.55 MB, 4032x3024)
1.55 MB
1.55 MB JPG
First time I've primed minis. Used a spray primer.
The guide I watched said to go light as possible, and having it specked is better for having the paint grip. I did a quick pass on each side of the lot, and quickly gave another pass to anything that looked severely lacking.
Pic related is the one I thought looked best.
Did I do ok or am I a retard?
>>
>>64017748
It looks workable, but I've never heard of people intentionally going for speckling.
>>
File: IMG_5131.jpg (219 KB, 1067x709)
219 KB
219 KB JPG
Ok I promise I'll stop posting this guy soon.
Trying to finish up the base. Added some foilage in the form of little bright colored ball plants. They don't look terribly amazing up close but they do look nice from a distance.
But I'm still hung up on the lip color. A friend suggested Dryad Bark, and I thought Slaneesh Grey would look nice but I think it turned out way too bright. I think after trying both I sort of want to just go to the good ol' black lip.
>>
>>64017821
I think black rims are the way to go
>>
>>64017821
Seconding black.
>>
best crackle pastes for people not wanting to support GW?
>>
>>64017821
do brown lip you dingus
>>
>>64017797
Should I do more? (in the future, I assume what's done is done on these)
I was primarily afraid of over-priming and filling in the details.
>>
>>64017882
Like Steel Legion Drab?
>>64017861
I've used this stuff in the past and it worked out fairly well.
https://www.amazon.com/Ranger-TDC31888-Holtz-Distress-Crackle/dp/B005FY5HCW
>>
Does anyone have advice on rebasing completed units? I'm contemplating a switch from generic "badland" bases to urban style ones and I'm wondering if it will be worth the effort.
>>
File: sword.jpg (181 KB, 980x1056)
181 KB
181 KB JPG
went for orange on the sword, only downside is orange is time consuming to paint and the thought of painting a whole unit is filling me with dread
>>
>>64018136
looks super anon, well worth the time imo
>>
>>64011631
>I have a question for you anon, can you post your mold for draco?

I tore it long ago, anon, and cut it up so I could use the solid chunks of silicone to fill in other molds I later made.

I made it using MicroMark's 1-to-1 RTV silicone, which runs about $45.00US per serving (two big bottles that will last for quite some time). The blue stuff (not to be confused with Blue Stuff) mold in this picture is made of the same stuff. It's great at capturing deatil, and takes only four hours to cure. The downside - and this is a big one - is that it's only slightly stronger than Velveeta cheese. If your model has a lot of overhangs, you stand a really good chance of tearing the mold when removing the model inside.
>>
>>64018136
looks amazing m8
>>
Alright, doing some practice for my concept of yellow+scales bike. What do you think?
>>
>>64018447
looks a little more like camo than scales
>>
>>64018447
>>
>>64018473
>>
>>64018136
Wew, is it wet blending? Great work anon
>>
File: IMG_20190113_012549-01.jpg (1.65 MB, 2491x1815)
1.65 MB
1.65 MB JPG
Making some progress tonight

>>64018136
Love this
>>
>>64018470
>>64018447
Yeah like this anon said, I don't really get the scale feel from it. the mechanical/metal parts look good, but the plating just looks like sand/khaki with highlights
>>
>>64018309
I see, thats perfect! I noticed your casts are quite crisp, what are you using to press the two halves together? I have plexiglass with rubber bands but I think I am still not getting a uniform press. I keep getting quite a bit of flash
>>
File: unknown (1).png (358 KB, 416x404)
358 KB
358 KB PNG
Finally back to making progress on my redboi, running out of black wash is a pain in the ass when you can't get to a shop very often
>>
>>64018136
The head is shit, it shows a complete lack of awareness in colour theory and balancing colours properly. You have a warm white scheme and then a neon blue dildo sticking out the top of it. Then you have orange which contrasts with the blue and gives you 2 focal points which ignore 80% of the model.

You have painted 2 models and put them together in effect. One is a neutral model that invokes tans, creams, bone colours. The other is a high contrast model that invokes fire, lasers, rich blue oceans with orange sunsets.

I would compare your model to a skeleton. When you paint a horde of skeletons the bone will always be neutral. The rusty armour, banners and deep shadows are what give it the impact. These things take an other wise plain looking skeleton (ignore the pun) and make it pop as an individual object. The frame is where you hang the story objects from to add some meat to the piece. Your wraith lord doesn't have a story like this, it doesn't have rusty armour or old egyptian thingybobs hanging off it. It has smooth plates and 2 huge swords. What story are you telling my eyes except there's a blue and orange picture with a white background, i.e. a complete misuse of your canvas.

Similarly where is the rest of the blue on the model? It's now your primary colour and it appears no where else. It's poorly balanced. If you use a colour on top it should also be used on bottom if possible. No colour should appear solo unless it's something like a flaming arrow supposed to be stand out.

You took advice from people who know nothing about colour theory or balance. Paint the blue head into a tan or cream colour if you want to capitalise on the neutral tones you have or paint it orange if you want to do extreme contrast with your neutrals (don't add blue else where. Your colour scheme is Cream, light tan, black and orange. You already have triangle of colours which all contrast each other. Adding a 4th makes it off balance).

>In b4 retards screaming
>>
File: minis.jpg (131 KB, 1600x900)
131 KB
131 KB JPG
I need some opinions around here. I have taken up the hobby after 15 years out of commission and I started with some Stormcast. I would appreciate opinions on things that could be improved in the two figures of the sides (which are the ones that are finished), but mainly I need someone to guide me with the color/tone that I should give to the tabards (Pure white? Broken white? Sepia? Something that has nothing to do with whites?). I have a lot of doubts with this, and it seems there is no way I can make a choice.
>>
>>64018447
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9EnnVUr21Tw
>>
File: feminism.jpg (29 KB, 349x642)
29 KB
29 KB JPG
>>64018718
>>
I wanna paint some cheesecake reaper minis b/c im a degenerate.
What's a good paint set?
>>
>>64018718
Where as you could be constructive in your criticism,you come off as a pretentious ass. Work on your bedside manner Anon.
>>
>>64018743
You have too many colours going on.The middle tabard looks best but it's fighting so many other colours for space. Maybe drop the red or downplay it to just detail like eyes or trim. Same for the gold.

Welcome back to the hobby.
>>
>>64018774
Scale 75 ones.
>>
>>64018774
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrJ1Yb2QI1g
>>
>>64018791
Reddit just called for Dr. Faggot. Maybe you should go back there.
>>
>>64018718
I appreciate the feedback. There will be more areas of blue (specifically the loincloth) and hopefully will make it less jarring
>>
>>64018823
Just critiquing your criticism Anon. No need to be thin skinned.
>>
>>64018470
>>64018614
I guess it is the lack of surface that don’t allow it to form a proper pattern. Those 2 front plates at >>64018473 were the worst.

Here is how it looks when it has a bit more space.
>>
>>64018909
It's partially that, and partially you not really pulling it off very well on a less flat surface.
>>
File: Yesssss.png (67 KB, 265x239)
67 KB
67 KB PNG
>>64018136

>that blue
>>
>>64018926
I appreciate the feedback. I wonder what could be done to make scales more manageable and so far I can only think of swapping scales with yellow and putting scales only on big flat surface like front plating. Does the color scheme work at least?
>>
File: reaction image 6.jpg (508 KB, 600x450)
508 KB
508 KB JPG
>>64013130
I see you are a man of culture also
>>
File: DSC03368.jpg (1.66 MB, 2592x1944)
1.66 MB
1.66 MB JPG
Guns highlighted and bases done, sadly need to pick up more paints before I can do much more so no more on these boys until next week
>>
>>64007819
Go back to your tard wrangler plz
>>
>>64018599
This is looking great. Makes me want an airbrush for basecoating big stuff
>>
>>64018136
might wanna add a rim highlight or false shadow to the where the helmet meets the body, at the moment the transition looks a bit too clean and instant
>>
>>64018599
damn. how do you get such sharp lines for the paint chipping?
>>
>>64018635
Add muzzle burn to the thermal spear.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jIKEfVoqC5U
>>
>>64019308
Ehhh, I'm not sure about that blue marble effect on the helmets. Pure white works better, now they look like the white didn't cover blue primer properly.
>>
>>64019458
the helmets are unfinished my dude, lol
If it looks like the paint didn't cover properly... it didnt :D
of course, I'll blend it up properly when it comes to it
>>
>>64019355
Appreciated. Can't recommend it enough.

I know airbrushes get a bad rep from people overdoing it with gaudy looking rubbish, but I think if you have the money and a room where you can use it without problems you would be a masochist to paint larger mini's without one. That said if you live in a small flat with other people or similar they can be impractical.
>>
>>64019432
I will be, I haven't even done a tidy up on the wash yet..
>>
>>64018309
Different anon here, what do you use to make mold halves before casting? I tried plasticine but it was a right pain in the ass to work with most of the time.
>>
>>64019424
Airbrush cheats. Used chipping medium.

If your not familiar, you paint a undercoat of rusty colours then apply a layer of chipping medium. After that you apply your basecoat over the top. Once it's dried you can use water to reactivate the medium underneath and use a tool to literally chip the paint off (I used a snapped paintbrush). Afterwards you apply a layer of varnish and you can paint over the top.

It took me a long time to start getting effects I was happy with because if you do it wrong it makes the paint an uneven mess, but once you get it, it's fairly quick and easy to do.
>>
File: casting_setup_large.jpg (311 KB, 1280x960)
311 KB
311 KB JPG
>>64018618
>what are you using to press the two halves together?

Two little rectangular pieces of cardboard and some rubber bands.
>>
Why the fuck aren't nuclear weapons used in fighting tyranids? Or essentially or destroyer weapons from the legions era?

Like fuck their whole shit up with like tsar bomba level atomics? I mean for fuck sake.
>>
>>64019628
shit, everything requires an airbrush :(
>>
>>64019672
This is probably a question for 40k general but the answer is that hitting them with swords is much cooler.
>>
>>64019621
>what do you use to make mold halves before casting?

I build my box with LEGO bricks, and put down a bed of green clay, then press the master and some large steel ball-bearings into it. The first half of the mold is what I pour into the box to cover this (in the case of those blue ones you can see in >>64019630, it's Micro Mark's 1-to-1). The rubber takes four hours to cure. After that, I disassemble the box, remove the clay and ball bearings, clean up the master (sometimes small pieces of clay or silicone will stick to it), coat the first half of the mold with mold release, and rebuild the box around it.

Once that's ready, I can pour the second half of the mold.
>>
>>64019686
An airbrush is never required but there's very few reasons not to own one.
>>
>>64019672
Why is this in /wip/?
Why must people point out flaws in realism for a fantasy game?
Why haven't people heard of suspension of disbelief?
>>
>>64019672
>Why the fuck aren't nuclear weapons used in fighting tyranids?

What do you think are in those torpedoes, anon ... bouquets of flowers and Hallmark greeting cards?
>>
>>64018718
>I'm autistic and hate minimalism
>>
Two Nobz converted for the stripey pants crew. Old bugbears from a D&D campaign I ran.

I am probably going to tear the left guy apart because he isn't 40k enough, but he'll do for now. Peggs on the right turned out bretty gud.
>>
File: DSC_0026.jpg (585 KB, 1178x1492)
585 KB
585 KB JPG
>>64019686
The chipping medium is great but I still liked the chips I used to get with a make up sponge on my old Tau and it was far more practical.
>>
File: Green clay.jpg (165 KB, 1144x480)
165 KB
165 KB JPG
>>64019726
By green clay, do you mean pic related, or modelling clay that is green, or just unfired clay (like what you would use for pottery)?

>mold release
Some of my casts have gone catastrophically wrong after the person at the hobby shop said he was 100% sure that the mold release they had in stock would work on silicone. He was completely wrong. I've heard Smooth-On's is pretty good but I'll give Micro Mark a go as well.
>>
File: latest[2].jpg (173 KB, 1000x573)
173 KB
173 KB JPG
>>64019672

Promethium is how you remove tyranid.
>>
>>64019932
Those are really fucking good igniters.
>>
>>64017290
trollforge had some, but not enough for an army
>>
>>64019908
>By green clay, do you mean pic related, or modelling clay that is green, or just unfired clay (like what you would use for pottery)?

Green modeling clay that I bought from Michels for under $10 with a 50% off coupon.

I'm still kicking myself for not writing down the brand name. See, I used metal masters for most of my recasts, but then quickly discovered that some kinds of clay would try to bond with plastic masters. I had to sacrifice one of my Mk VI beekee heads to replace the master and make the second half of this mold after the clay started to attach itself to the original one.

>Some of my casts have gone catastrophically wrong after the person at the hobby shop said he was 100% sure that the mold release they had in stock would work on silicone. He was completely wrong. I've heard Smooth-On's is pretty good but I'll give Micro Mark a go as well.

It has to be rubber-to-rubber mold release, like >>64019726. The kind of stuff you put in injection molds to get the resin stuff out without having pieces of it snap off in the mold is something else entirely. The purpose of the rubber-to-rubber release is to prevent the first half of the mold from bonding to the second half, which it will happily do, fusing into a single block of silicone with your master buried in the middle.

Conversely, you can take advantage of this property by doing what I described in >>64018309: if you're ruined an older mold, you can cut it up into small pieces (tiny squares or rectangles make judging the volume easier) and arrange them in the cavity where you are pouring a new mold. The incoming liquid rubber will happily bond with the old stuff, so you don't need to use as much of your precious supply of material.
>>
File: WacoWasAnInsideJob.png (182 KB, 270x490)
182 KB
182 KB PNG
>>64011329
Branch Davidian Fag from earlier, here's a mockup of what I was thinking of the general scheme. How is she looking at a conceptual level?
>>
File: download (7).jpg (10 KB, 203x248)
10 KB
10 KB JPG
>>64020200
>>
File: freeguild wip.jpg (458 KB, 1459x519)
458 KB
458 KB JPG
I wanted to make a small squad of freeguild just for fun using Shadow Warrior bodies/helmets, greatsword heads, and guard weapons. There were supposed to be some small little shields from the thunderers kit but the bit company I ordered from fucked up.
So I'm doing some thinking. What shield should I use for them? I was gonna use those tiny shields that thunderers come with, but I thought maybe there might be something better that I'm missing. Also, is there a way to make them more obviously human? I shaved off the elf runes except on the leader's sword, but I feel like I could do more. Maybe some purity seals?
>>
Never casted before.
Is this a good kit to get? I want to make some resin space marines.

https://www.amazon.com/MoldMaking-Casting-Pourable-Silicone-Starter/dp/B000QCHVC2/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1547349756&sr=8-6&keywords=resin+casting+kit
>>
>>64020333
Looks pretty good - I think the components there are Oomoo 30 and Smooth-Cast 300, but it also comes with some additional stuff and documentation which might be helpful to you.
>>
>>64020403
Is it okay for making two part molds? I figured I would do like this guy is doing ( https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/242040.page ) but with plastic. I also alreayd have some rc-3 resin, so I dunno if I should just get mold making rubber?
>>
I’m doing that pile of secondhand guardsmen. Everybody is assembled for priming tomorrow. Question of taste: They’ll all be getting this gray camo and green armor look. I’ve already decided to paint special weapons red. Should the lasguns be black or red? What looks better? I have only a small number of older troops with black lasguns so can easily change my standard still.

Example of an older guy with black lasgun.
>>
>>64014852
Now workin on this guy
>>
>>64020441
It will work for two part molds IF AND ONLY IF you have a proper mold release, like >>64020104 mentioned. It picks up very fine details and is pretty easy to mix and pour.

Be warned, though, it does cure over time (even unopened), so if you don't use it all, it will go bad over time depending on the weather in your area (I live in a hot and dry area, mine started being almost unusable after about a month).
>>
>>64020878
I live in a hot and humid area (New jersey), should I be worried?
And what would a good mold release be? I think pam wouldn't work now, would it?
>>
>>64020775
what i did for my guard was tan las with black mag,stock and barrel tip . operator af
>>
>>64018881
Got a source for that image? I like the look of that knight.
>>
File: 20190112_231626.jpg (2.61 MB, 4128x3096)
2.61 MB
2.61 MB JPG
Finished my first space marine tonight, and I'm pretty pleased desu. Lots of room for improvement but I like looking at the fella
>>
Hey /wip/, how do you make your maps? I mean when you make them, what comes to mind? Do you build random pieces and try to make something out of it or plan the whole map out?
>>
I made an Ork swordsman. What have I done...
>>
>>64021685
Made an ork swordsman..... you just said that was what you did?
>>
File: 1547356670023 (2).jpg (721 KB, 1636x2707)
721 KB
721 KB JPG
>>64021685
Fucking phone. Ugh.
>>
>>64021694
I think he thinks it's wackier than it is, or something
>>
>>64021733
Yeah I'm not running on much sleep. It seemed like an oxymoron when I sat back and looked at it, but eh.
>>
>>64021707
>>64021685
MOULD
O
U
L
D

LINES
I
N
E
S
>>
>>64021764
Where? Honestly thought I got em.

Here is how the sword is actually shaped. Forgive my bright as fuck desk lights.
>>
File: 20190112_233023.jpg (1.94 MB, 2048x2329)
1.94 MB
1.94 MB JPG
I thought 80mm would be enough, fuck.
>>
>>64021764
looks like he got em all to me. there's some rough cuts and unfilled gaps, but no mold lines
>>
And the other side. The human head is actually kind of big, so it might get some chaos tattoos or something.
>>
>>64020272
Do you want something ornated or plain? Freeguild genersl and General on Griffon got ornated shields so they could work. Also they look like "human shields" so that might help aswell.

I like them so far. Color scheme will help alot too for more human look. You could try making top of the helmets lower and rrounder.
>>
File: 20190113_004852.jpg (2.38 MB, 4032x3024)
2.38 MB
2.38 MB JPG
Working on some death guard for kill team what do you guys think ?
>>
File: 20190113_004834.jpg (2.51 MB, 4032x3024)
2.51 MB
2.51 MB JPG
>>64022017
Here is my blight launcher
>>
>>64021602
you mean for an rpg? The resident nerds mainly do wargaming miniatures, but i heard that people like to throw rice on paper and trace the outline to make maps.
>>
>>64021383
Looks nice and clean, good work anon. Id maybe black line around the eye lenses so they stand out more.
>>64021707
Thats a sick conversion. He needs some orky nips though, the chest looks weird bare.
>>64022017
>>64022036
Looks good, and suitably gross. I think the blood on the axe is a little weird, it should streak up the side of it a bit more. Atm it looks like he dipped the edge in a pool of blood.
>>
>>64021602
I'd plan them out, but give them interesting things in the design to keep me interested in building them.
I have my players have to delve into a Chaos tomb in WFRP recently, so the floor plan had several Chaos symbols built into it.
Which made it fun to design the place and easier to decide where to place what, along with making it interesting to them as the explored it.
No idea about more random dungeons, I only have them related to important events and with defined themes.
>>
Anyone have any interesting colour schemes for Eldar?

I've done alot of green/brown so I'm looking to start something new.

I was thinking of something with reds and purples, but I'm not opposed to considering blue either. None of the main Eldar Craftworld designs really pop to me so I'm open to anything apart from earthy colours.
>>
File: img.jpg (55 KB, 920x950)
55 KB
55 KB JPG
>>64022266
if you want to do red but don't like sam hainn you could check out the corsair scheme from one of the FW books. It's black with red stripes and white markings. Looks really neat on their vehicles.
>>
File: img.jpg (52 KB, 800x600)
52 KB
52 KB JPG
>>64022385
better image
>>
>>64021383
Good start and like another anon said very clean. Might benefit from some hardline inking or a light wash in areas to add a little definition.

The gold on the top emblem definitely needs a little wash, as does the icon on his right shoulder.

The crux on his left shoulder needs a little clean up around the edges where it meets the shoulder pad.

And consider making the wax on the purity seal green just so it stands out from the red.

Very nice overall though.
>>
File: 20190112_223044.jpg (70 KB, 720x406)
70 KB
70 KB JPG
The Loyal 32 ain't got shit on my United 64
>>
Last Nob for the night. Power stabba and a slugga.
>>
>>64022913
And a better view of the stabba.
>>
>>64022517
>The Loyal 32
apparently i'm slow. I googled and looked into the dex but i still don't know what that is.

anyway, nice army shot.
>>
>>64023123
It's the minimum amount of IG models to fill a battalion and is a CP battery for imperiums soup
>>
>>64023178
Ah that makes sense. Really need to read up on 8th edition. I still don't get how these formations, CP, soup and whatnot works.
>>
>>64022929
I'm taking this idea for few power stabbas.
>>
>>64023347
I have two sets of Lootas sitting around because I built them as Burnas, so yeah. That’s gonna be a thing.
>>
New thread
>>64023598
>>64023598
>>64023598
>>64023598
>>
File: IMG_20190113_102717.jpg (1.4 MB, 1728x2230)
1.4 MB
1.4 MB JPG
Making some progress with this. Need to start painting head for this.
>>
>>64022417
>>64022385

I'm normally not a fan of grey/black but they actually look really good.
>>
File: my_marines.jpg (94 KB, 1024x768)
94 KB
94 KB JPG



Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.