/fgt/ daily reminder (courtesy by anon): one stop per decade is (generally) bullshit
>negative film ages better than positive
>black and white better than color
>slow films better than fast
>storage conditions (dry/cool) matter more than years
>Negative film is shot 1 or 2 stops overexposed and then PULLED in development so that you build more density in the exposure and develop less such that the fog is limited
>slide/positive film is shot at box speed or overexposed and pulled.
>if you home develop you can also use benzotriazole as a restrainer for the the first developer in E6 process

FAQ
>What should my first film camera be?
If you have a DSLR system. Get a camera that shares the same lenses. If not, something in the vein of cameras like the Canon A-1 or a Pentax Super Program or a Nikon FA should work.
>Why is film so expensive, it wasn't like this 5 years ago!
It's either "the Jews did this" or "get a job Jamal". Choose accordingly.
>Is medium format worth getting into?
No. Unless you like the look and workflow.
>How to digitize negatives?
Have a modern camera? Get a macro lens and try scanning with that. Otherwise hunt down some old dedicated film scanner like a Minolta or a Nikon (or that one good Canon). With a medium format you could use a flatbed scanner but the quality will be so so...

Useful links
>[massive dev chart] gives times for home film development
https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>[film dev] shows results of development regimes
https://filmdev.org/
>[news & community links]
35mmc.com
casualphotophile.com
kosmofoto.com
emulsive.org
japancamerahunter.com

>>4250661
I thought we decided not to include this massive block of text?

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I picked up a nikon 301 as untested to replace my fg because the light meter stopped working, Only had to clean the battery contacts and it seems to be working perfectly

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>>4250665

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>>4250667
can't remember if these were 500t or 250d, think it was a roll of 500t tho

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>>4250668

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>>4250663
I admit it's not a good sticky, but not having a sticky text at all is worse IMO.
We could throw out the stuff about expired film and the "news & community links"

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one

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two

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three

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Chroma!

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i've been liking fomapan 400 in a small plastic point and shoot i can pocket with rodinal semi-stand. how do fomapan 100 and 200 differ? they worth checking out? if it's just trading grain for iso i wont bother.
>>4250691
this one's best

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>>4250692
Those wheels make me sick. I curse them with porosity.

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Guys I've spent the last 3 weekends with my dream girl shooting film it's fucking great.

>>4250892
>tfw took a photo of the girl that I liked this weekend, she later went out with her boyfriend

purple_ryan_gosling.jpg

>>4250692
>those colors
holy soul

>>4250892
Well, I'm jelly. I spent a day with my dream girl too but unfortunately I'm not her dream guy. I'd rather get punched in the gut than feel this feel.

>>4250692
Learn how to take photos some day, yeah? Because this is fucking shit. Or is this as good as we can expect from what looks like Afghanistan.

>>4250921
Does she know that?

>>4250946
>Afghanistan
do they even have trees there?

>>4250946
What would you have done differently?
>>4250880
Buy me a set of countersunk steelies babe, i got chrome hubcaps that need some love

>>4250949
I'm not sure. I was aware enough to know when I shouldn't confess a thing like that and in this situation it would just ruin a good friendship. I think she has some idea anyway and we had a sort of roundabout conversation about it, not specifically mentioning us but just about how you can't choose who you like in that way, and she said she wished she could choose who she liked that way, not mentioning me but I think we had a mutual understanding. It is what it is, I guess.

On a more hopeful note, has anyone heard of this stuff with Harman (the actual company behind the Ilford film business) teasing some new product?

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/harman-photo-cryptic-announcement-teaser.202435/

I have a (maybe ridiculous) hope that it's a new line of color film, but that may just be wishful thinking.

>>4250988
>ruin a good friendship.
You’re orbiting

question about old flashes (and flashes in general). the back of my old flash has apertures for a given iso and subject distance (and assuming flash ss of 1/60 i guess). at 1 metre/3 feet, 200 iso it says f22, which is EV 14.
would this be to meter for the midtone, or highlights?
what happens if there is ambient/continuous lighting too? i understand EV is based on a doubling/log scale, so EV11 room + EV 12 from flash would be equivalent to EV 12.5. is that right?

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>>4251011
Man, not gunna lie I shot with multiple off camera flashes for years on slide film and have no idea wtf you're talking about with relating EV to this stuff. Just set your aperture to be whatever the power + distance chart tells you. There's no reason to even think about EV.

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buttsauce

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>>4251021
thats good to know, thanks

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>>4251302
That said, you do still need to figure out what SS to use to get the ambient light exposed for how you want. I usually enjoyed underexposing it by 1 stop so my flash subjects popped a bit more.

>>4251341
yo what film and lens are you using

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Anon, question to those of you who prints photos on enlarger and shoot Kodak Double-X. How good/bad it works with mono-contrast FB paper. Is contrast too high or is it okay? How it looks on different iso?

I used to struggle with printing pushed HP5 back in the days, don't want to repeat this experience.

Pic rel Delta 400 at 3200 iso pushed in Adox XT3

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>>4251341
my camera only has 1 flash SS, 1/50. but thats what i dont get, your flash subjects will be EV ambient+flash and your background/environment will be EV ambient. so if i underexpose my background to be -1 and subject to be +1 or +2, the flash will be 4x brighter than the ambient and then i wont need to add the ambient light when considering the subject. i think i got it now

>>4250876
100 is not worth it as its basically the same as 400
200 i think has tabular grain as opposed to the rest. i like it best of the foma bunch

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Just shot an expired roll and it came out like this. I'm pretty sure it was a Kodak colour negative.
Read it has something to do with the dyes breaking down although I don't know why there is a gradient. Anyone else had a similar experience?

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>>4251391
That was with my bronica 150mm and I think Astia.

>>4251430
I'm not aware of any camera that forces you to use only 1 SS. You should be able to use 1/50th and any speed slower than that.

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>>4251535
Just noticed that the photos I took came out blue and the ones that had been exposed 20 years ago are purple/ magenta

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>>4251537
>You should be able to use 1/50th and any speed slower than that.
What the actual fuck, I completely had no idea at all. Wow. Thanks for that. I guess I gotta go mess with some flash then

>>4251470
ok cool yeah i was trying to get an idea from reddit and lomography and 200 did seem a touch different, will run some through.

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We are locked and loaded

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>>4251547
Hellya, have fun.

New camera leather doesn't match well. Guess this camera will be ugly for the next 10 years.

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>>4251769
Gives it charm

>>4250655
What'a the cheapest b&w film to bulk right now? Fomapan?

>>4251922
Y

>>4251966
mmm aids
>>4251922
Kentmere also

>>4251968
>>4251922
why doesnt foma just rate their film at 160 instead of lying saying its 400?

>>4251968
Thank you
>>4251975
There is a lot of jewery in this hobby. But hey, it's film that's not expired and relatively cheap, in a very scarce market. Bitching won't get us far now.

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Hooray for cheap slide film. Though the cost of developing didn't offset the cost of the film at all.
>>4250892
Nice. I could have gone shooting with my dream girl but I kinda fucked it up (multiple times).

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>>4252008
>slide film
>takes a photo of a fucking wall
I hate you fucking tards

I was gifted the ilford simplicity black and white dev set. What chemicals can i keep to reuse? My understanding that all if it is reusable besides the dev chem and wetting agent. I’m trying ti figure out if i will need storage bottles and how many for my dev chems.

>>4252062
you mean the little starter pack? I think those are like 2 rolls max of 35mm film.
By general rule you will reuse fixer and stop bath until is exhausted. Developer it depends, there is some that is one shot but there is some that can be reused.

>>4252079
>reuse fixer and stop bath until is exhausted
how can you tell when they're exhausted? does it take them ruining a roll?

>>4252109
when you develop film and cut the leader off, keep it labelled (what film stock it is) in a bag. before you develop with a film stock + fixer type you havent done before, drop the leader into a tiny bit of fixer (like 30ml) in a jug. shake the jug a little a few times. time how long it takes to turn see-through/clear from when you dropped it in. this is your clearing time (in seconds), write it down for that unique film stock and fixer combination. keep reusing the fixer and doing this every so often. when the time to clear is now double what it was at the start (with fresh fixer), get new fixer. also dont pour it down the sink, just buy cheap 1L glass bottles with a stopper at the top and store them until you can safely dispose. another way is to just mark down how many rolls you have put through that fixer (like a sticky note on the bottle) and stop using it after a bunch

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I've got a camera and some chemicals some time ago, first time trying to develop my own film. Was pretty fun, but I think I'll be leaving the developing process to some pro shop whenever I'll decide to use film camera. So much work, so much fluids to carefully pour in and out, ugh. Was crazy fun to experience once, but for practical use, it might be too much work.

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>>4252012
:)

>>4252109
If you pull your reel out of the soup and it looks wrong (black+gray instead of black+clear) drop it back in the soup right away and put the lid on. Then mix up some new fixer and redo that step. Your film won't be ruined unless you blasted it with a flashlight or something, it will only be lightly fogged. Or you could do a scientific test like some kinda NERD >>4252168 I'll bet that guy uses stop bath and not even vinegar like actual stop bath

>>4252228
uhm actually i also use a hypo clearing agent :^)
you actually probably dont even need to put the lid back on, see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Agdn3ms5jCA

>>4252233
jfc imagine going this autistic over b&w I've put less effort into e6

>>4252234
could you not tell i was being sarcastic? maybe you actually have autism

>>4252235
just havin a giggle m8. I was referring more to your video than your comment, I don't think that guy is being sarcastic

Fuck I enjoy the taste of nigga dick when I'm out shooting the streets of islamabad

>>4252228
>I'll bet that guy uses stop bath and not even vinegar like actual stop bath
not him but I just use a water stop bath....

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>>4252313
true dat babe

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>>4252242
the point was you dont have to be autistic and shit yourself to put the lid on right away, hes literally pulling it out into the light

My cinestill light source for scanning film at home just failed, it went really dim and now it no longer turns on at all (even after clicking all the buttons and trying different power/USB sources). Has this happened to anyone else?

emergency question for everyone. I shot Portra 800 at 100 on accident. That means I underexposed it correct? and that I need to push it 3 stops for it to be salvageable? But I've shot expired film at lower ISO than box speed, developed normally and it was fine. Help clear the confusion.

>>4252387
>I need to push it 3 stops
you need to pull it 3 stops - over exposure : push development :: under exposure : pull development

I can't say how much latitude Portra 800 has but you might be able to salvage it with a -1 or -2 stop pull.

https://thedarkroom.com/pushing-and-pulling-film/

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I found Foma 400 handles overexposure pretty well. This one was overexposed by about 5-6 stops and turned out okay

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>>4252459

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1/125s

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I'm so tired of consistently getting the dev module locked and having to reinstall some new permutation of cracked lightroom each time adobe finds some way of getting around the firewall filters...

The only reason I was really using it was for Negative Lab Pro. What's the next best substitute for LR that can do both cataloguing, raw editing and negative scan conversion that's easy enough for a sliderbrain to use.

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I keep pondering how I'm going to digitalize the thousands of colornegs in 120, 126 and 135 and dias slides in my parents inventory. Even if you skim away the snapshits, there's still photos from the 40's to the mid 00's.

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Anyone have an Olympus 35 SP?
I picked up a broken one today that I want to repair. When the film advance lever is wound, the shutter opens and stays in the open position. Once my watch spanner arrives I should be able to take the top housing off and inspect the shutter release rod.

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>>4252496
I have one, that lens is amazing, its my favorite one on all my cameras. I used to enjoy shooting this thing in aperture priority with the spot metering, but the metering suddenly stopped working. I guess its a loose connection or something.
Sounds like you have a mechanical problem, I would assume it will be difficult to fix but I am a clueless idiot

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Would I be better of getting one of those Kodak phone scanners or a Ion Slides 2 scanner?
>>4252462
Pretty cool.

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>>4252501
My issue with it is the focus patch is quite dim so I keep missing focus whenever I dont really take my time or shoot min or max distance. I must have hundreds of missed focus shots

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>>4252504

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>>4252505

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>>4252507
these have been portra 160 and 400 in the 35SP.

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Do you ever feel the itch to just turn a frame into B&W after you scan it and realize the lighting was shit? Do some photos ONLY work on B&W or is this just cope?

>>4252505
This is lovely

>>4252523
thanks, hail + sunshine is typical weather in Trondheim

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>>4252522
One of my favourite photos was shot on Provia but looks so much better as bw. Pic related is Ektachrome converted to bw cause all it recorded was blues at this depth. Converting a colour shot to bw is totally fine imo.

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>>4250671
>>4250663
It's probably best if we condense the text walls into links that lead to a pastebin w/the text

>>4250655
I finally got some velvia 50 ordered off of BnH, last I remember shooting with it though all I remember are the slides being really blue. Is there a proper way to mitigate this?

>>4252550
project them and they'll be the right colour.
alternatively warming filter when shooting but then you'll have piss-vision if you try to project

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>>4252550
UV filter and don't shoot during mid day light. V50 doesn't play they nice with warming filters as they cause yellowa and reds to go overboard. Choosing the right light to shoot in is really the big thing most people drop the ball on when shooting E6. Some light will just not look good.

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>>4252574
thats beautiful, m8

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>>4252459
>Foma 400
oh you mean foma 80? lol

>>4252574
Fair fair, bright, flat light is best for e6 film. Just have to get used to shooting it

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>>4252612
No, bright flat light is what will give you a ton of blue. You want crisp light, the kind you get in fall and winter.

>>4252576
Thx m8

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>>4252501

I have had some disassembly practice on a couple other vintage cameras so I will give it a go anyway. I will take pictures and notes and hopefully publish them somewhere since I can’t currently find anything about this shutter issue.

>>4252504
>>4252505
>>4252509
Really nice images.
Simple cameras really are the best.

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>>4252550
Velvia is colour balanced for daylight.Consider it a requirement rather than a suggestion and you'll get better results.

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>>4252656
Actually a blue shift happens when using tungsten stock in daylight, daylight stock looks neutral in daylight and reddish in tungsten.

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>>4252662
>akshully
Read my fucking post again and explain to me how what you said was an intelligent response?
If you are
>actually
retarded or dyslexic, stop posting gibberish with a trip and in this authoritative tone.

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>>4252634
>>4252656
Tyty. I've only shot one roll of v50 so I'm trying to mitigate what I saw there. Shot plenty of provia and ektachrome tho

>>4252664
The dude was complaining they were TOO BLUE. The only way he's getting them shifted to blue because of white balance is shooting under fluorescent lighting or something like it.

>>4252676
I can post pics later, I'm away from my archive rn

you niggas got any Nikon glass recommendations?

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>>4252676
Or in shade, you fucking retard. Stop giving advice if you never
>akshually
take photos.

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>>4252676
>>4252664
Here are some of them, shot on my F4S in P mode.
1/3

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>>4252696
2/3

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>>4252697
3/3

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>>4252676
that isnt the only way. shooting daylight e6 on an overcast day will give you blue slides. on velvia 50 itll give you hella blue slides

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>>4252696
the slides themselves look like this? to me, this looks like automated scanning software overcompensating for velvia's inherent magenta shadow tones, which is causing everything to be heavily cyan/green. velvia doesnt age this way. either bad scanning or bad developing, depending how slides look.

>>4252696
These look about right to me. If you want to understand Velvia better, simply consult the based god Ken. But he does warm it a touch under skylight conditions (but not with a "skylight" filter, as they only emphasise the already present magenta shift in the film).
>I usually shoot it through an 81A (A2) filter at all times. In shade, I'll shoot through an 85C filter.
Personally I don't bother because it's the 21st century and I can edit my own scans for colour balance, but each to their own.

>>4252705
The slides look a melenky bit better but on the whole they look overtly blue. I send in my stuff to Dwaynes photo in Kansas and learnt that the HD scans are worthit

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>>4252711
>>4252705
Here's a photo from a shot I took w/provia 100f

>>4252680
Ai NOCT-NIKKOR 58mm f1.2

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>>4252707
>>4252711
That is not what velvia 50 looks like in daylight.

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What are the best alternatives to lightroom? I refuse to pay a monthly fee.

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I have two issues currently
1) I am shooting Tri-X 400 w/ a red filter using a nikon F3. Should I adjust for the filter or shoot it as the lightmeter in the F3 says?
2) Picrel, but I am getting really fucked up colors in my color scans using epson v600 and NEGATIVELABPRO. what do yall use?

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>>4252739
I'm assuming the F3 has ttl metering so you don't have to compensate for the filter yourself, although you can if you want to

I do dslr scanning and NLP

>>4252732
Well I'll be shooting some soon so I'll be seeing if it's dwaynes processing that's fucking it up or I'm just metering wrong. Either way I'm excited for the rolls to come in.

>>4251341
I got another question. I'm gonna be shooting a super close subject on a wide angle lens (50-70cm away) in daylight and I want the background to be decently underexposed (I can make it pure black in post if needed). Does this mean I'll have to use the fastest shutter speed (1/50 for my camera) at a super high aperture like f22? From what I know that will be the way to get the least light from the background as possible

>>4252732
/r/'ing frame #27 good sir

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>>4252747
Wrong metering won't cause the film to go greenish like that. Hell yeah though slide is the best!

>>4252773
Yep, you're thinking correctly. You can boil it down to, shutter speed for exposing ambient, aperture for exposing flash exposure. Since your max flash sync is only 1/50th, you'll need to rely on a small aperture to bring your exposure down. If your flash exposure wants F22 and your ambient exposure is 1/15 @ F22, shooting at 1/50th will underexpose your ambient background by ~2 stops. Not to get into gear, but if you'll be doing a lot of flash work it's easy and cheap to get a camera that'll do 1/125th if not 1/250th. Leaf shutter cameras can flash sync at any speed, giving you up to 1/500 often.

>>4252810
Will post when I'm around my computer again.

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>>4252387
shot a more sensitive film as if u were shooting a less sensitive one, it means u overexposed it so u need to pull 3 stops now like the other guy said

>>4252502
very nice photo man
just out of curiosity what film/camera did you shoot it with?

>>4252898
Thanks anon. It was shot with a Chinon CM-5 using Eastman Double X (Iso 200).

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new tlr appears to have builtin swing (non-adjustable)

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just have to make sure everything I take a picture of is angled that way I guess

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> TFW I didn't know the beach I went to was the crusing area.
>there was a family here as well.
This is Tri-X 400 devloped in rodinal shot using a red filter.
I'm not sure how I fucked it up, but it seems a lot grainer than what I'm used to and the negative is lot darker than it should be

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>>4250668
>>4250667
>>4250665
These were on the Nikon?

>>4252680
for manual focus Nikons, I like my 105/2.5 and my 24/2.8

Talk me out of buying a Wista 45

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>>4253219
yessir

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>>4251537
Nice shot

the retard jannie banned me because I posted the photo of a hookers asshole. What the fuck jannie? I posted it with legitimate complaints about my photo taking process in low light. I guess no more hooker pics from me.

>also is adblock interfering with anyone else posting? I couldnt get captcha to load with ublock running

>>4253259
degenerates btfo

>>4253259
ahahaha gotcha bitch

>>4253259
Based. You've inspired me to do it myself. But I'm gonna do it on color too. Maybe use a velvia roll

Theres a functioning Super 8 at an antique store down the road from me. I really want it but have never shot film before and I feel like its a terrible idea but can't stop thinking about it

convince me not to

>>4253384
just look at how much development costs

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Got very few keepers out of two rolls of slide I just scanned. Happy with this one though, E100.
Tips on how to meter when you want to be able to see a colorful sky as a part of the landscape? I've blown out several now. Just meter the sky?

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>>4253396
Shoot another roll and just experiment with exposure and bracketing.
It'll tell you more than just some words on the internet.

>>4251537
These are great! Do you have an instagram or something to check more out?

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>>4253366
I had used a roll of e100 and was complaining because I could not hand hold at such low speeds.

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>>4253409
>100
>low speed
bruh what

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>>4252644

Some anons might find this interesting

The shutter on my Olympus opens when I wind the film (which primes the shutter). I took the lens apart and found a broken spring (not a coiled kind, more like a springy wire). After some experimenting I concluded that the spring pushes against the shutter control point to keep the shutter closed until a cam pushes in the other direction to open the shutter up. Then once the escapement expires another cam will push the shutter closed. So basically I need some jewellery wire or something to replace the broken spring.

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>>4253409
I'm gonna get her asshole to be right in sunlight and shoot pretty open. That should be enough. Or tripod and 1/30

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>>4250655
Anon, have you ever print on Bergger RC1 paper? Is it good enough to dive into it? Or Ilford is just a goat and nothing else matters?

yeah it would be better to try it by myself, but 100 sheets pack is not the best option for testing lol

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reflxlabs bros, I don't feel so good...
>>4253420
>>4253409
post on /s/ or somewhere and link it

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>>4252505
>>4252507
>>4252509
super comfy, good shots anon
>>4252522
I've done this a few times and it works better in some cases. The argument that B/W is all you really "need" for some images is true to an extent. Most people don't approach a color photo as needing to have the exact perfect colors, but it really can detract if there's too much going on/the subject isn't immediately apparent.

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Thoughts on Delta 3200? Im thinking of trying it out but I don't want to waste my money on a film that may not be worthwhile.

>>4253654
depends of your application, in any case its grainy.

>>4253654
It's a 1000 speed film. If you are going to get a lab to develop it without pushing to 3200, shoot it at 1000 or 800 iso. If you shoot it at 3200 you have to tell them to push it to 3200, otherwise they will develop it normally and it will be underexposed. Other than that it's a very nice stock, grainy and let's you see in the dark

>>4253396
try a polarizer filter

>>4253659
are you sure they wouldn't develop it at box speed? Kodak T-Max P3200 is an 800 iso film but the box and dx code are for 3200 ISO so my assumption is they would dev at 3200

>>4253729
this anon is crazy. nevermind.

it could be an issue only if your lab are lazy faggots who develop all rolls together in one big bucket of d76

>>4253733
box speed is not true speed, retard. you tell your lab what you want things developed at, why would they guess and PUSH your film for you? do you think your lab develops your single roll in a 1 reel paterson tank? lmao
theres literally 4 squares on the delta 3200 roll, "1600", "3200", "6400" and blank. i wonder what these are for
>>4253729
thats because they are designed to be pushed. if you shoot it at 3200, you tell your lab that and mark it on the roll. see above

>>4253735
>box speed is not true speed, retard.
wow. you know so much you might be a pro. looks like you are the smartest boy in the internet, tell me a bit more about labs, sempai

>>4253740
>tell me a bit more about labs
i told you about film, not labs
youre the one that said they labs develop any delta 3200 at 3200, and youre saying im telling you about labs?
you cant even make a straight argument

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Got a canon 7 on the way and need a lens and was thinking about just getting a cheap jupiter 12 to start out with although i heard some scratch the light baffles and dont really fit but some are fine, any particular things i should look out for like the date of production?

Also the light meter is busted in this canon but hopefully its just dirty contacts, either way i don't mind using sunny 16 or a light meter app.

>>4253733
>calls others lazy
>takes b&w to a lab (lol)
>>4253745
>ASIS
y
i
k
e
s

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>>4253772
>ASIS
doesn't bother me, still going to open it up and give it a cla tho

>>4253745
maybe an industar 61? They are cheap and never read about them having that kind of issue.

>>4253803
I believe stolen biogon is always better than stolen tessar.

>>4253819
>tfw no stolen planar

I finally did it lads, I finally bought an LF camera. Is there a lens anyone would recommend? I'm talking about something you'd die on the hill defending. Otherwise I might go for a Schneider 150mm f/5.6 105° XL

>>4253803
55mm would be a tiny bit too tight for my liking, Currently looking at the jupiter-8 which is 50mm, so I might do a little research and see if there are any issues with mounting

>>4253745
>jupiter 12
either that or a russian 28mm, it's cheap and easy.
Canon rangefinders are fun to use, i have a VT and it's golden

>>4253803
nta but I was looking at getting an industar 69 until I read somewhere that they're not actually standard M39 mount and won't focus to infinity when installed on a standard camera. I dunno if that's true for all industars but if so they're only really good for using with mirrorless adapters.

>>4253945
industar 69 were made for the Chaika cameras and just like the Chaika they have non standard threads, shouldn't be a problem with any other industar.

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Ektar scans I just got back

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

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>>4254133

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	FUJI PHOTO FILM CO., LTD.
Camera Model	SP-3000
Camera Software	FDi V4.5 / FRONTIER355/375-1.8-0E-016
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>>4254134

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]

Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment Make	FUJI PHOTO FILM CO., LTD.
Camera Model	SP-3000
Camera Software	FDi V4.5 / FRONTIER355/375-1.8-0E-016
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>>4254133
Funny.
>>4254134
Could have been cool, but not really original and the composition is disastrous. I usually don't care but you have the lines right there man.

>>4254133
nice

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Retarded question but these TMA Scanners, are they standalone or do they require a flatbed?

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Light Source	Unknown

the thread is dying lads, quick, 3 questions for you all :
What is the camera that you always have with you ?
Do you prefer using something mechanical or electronic ?
What is you favourite fast film stock ?

>>4254283
Nikon FM;
Mechanical, i like when things go klick-klack;
Probably Double-X pushed to 800.

I wish Exaktaanon was back :c

>>4250655
Is there any places where I can see lot's of film pictures with presets?

>>4254283
Nikon FE2
I prefer a calibrated in camera light meter so at least that electronic.
Portra 800 or pushed HP5

>>4250876
i really like fomapan100 and haven't shot the 400 for a long time now.
but i guess bc i like typical 100 iso and don't really mind if i get slow shutterspeeds.
fomapan 100 is definetely recommended, just agigate slow bc it tends to be high contrasty

>>4254283
typically the Olympus 35RC but lately it's been the Olympus Pen EE-3
they both have their pros and cons, I don't have a strong preference for either
pushed HP5

>>4254283
Nikon F3
I like having the finesse of electronic, with the reliability of mechanical.
Superia is the best
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Aight, I got a question for you,
I am traveling for a week for a vaction. I have 3 rolls of Tri-X I can bring, but do I also bring som porta

>>4254283
Nikon F2AS.
Mostly mechanical, but a TTL lightmeter is great to have.
Tri-X pushed to hell and back.