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File: DiscontinuedLOL.jpg (209 KB, 1000x1000)
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This is the Film General Thread. Post your film photos or film gear questions in this thread.
>it's not gay to post in the /fgt/, unless you shoot foma
Previous thread - >>4240356
I'll be fucked if I'm going to contribute to the proliferation of that cringey link pasta you fucking redditors spam in these threads, I'm literally the /fgt/ OP. Bow before me.

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>>
Two threads?

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>>4245138
The old one's autosaging because it has more than 300 replies.

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>>
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Hello dear fgts! Does anyone print photos with enlarger there? Tell a bit about setup you have, favorite paper type, which easel do you use etc?

Going to print first time, just waiting a couple of things to be delivered. Planning to start with old 18x24 paper produced in 1991

pic Orwo NP100 in Rodinal 1+25

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>>
>>4244578
Thanks again for the tip anon. Just bought myself the 24mm from Makinon.
>>
>>4242162
>coolscan
How are they to clean? I almost got one back in the day but went with CanoScan flatbed. Yes it meant cleaning for every use, but at least I could clean it quickly.
>>
Is it worth to reveal (develop) the film at home or should I just send to some company?
>>
>>4245200
depends on how much your time and effort is worth it to you to do it at home vs sending it to someone else, for b&w I'd say it is
>>
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i love the film

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Stop me from buying 30mts of Double X, I really liked it.

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>>4245248
sp-oooo-key
>>
>>4245248
What are your opinions on Tri-X vs Double-X? I've got a roll of each, and want to know what to load first.
>>
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>>4245259
Have never used Tri X, I have a roll that I mean to shoot soon since I am trying to compare different stocks before buying a big roll for bulk loading, I quite like Double X, even in rodinal it looks good based on internet comments I expected it to look like ass but its fine for me, grainy yes but I can live with it.

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>>4245278
I'll give it a try with both, thanks. Incidentally, that pic just screams "Иди cвoeй дopoгoй, Cтaлкep."
>>
>>4245278
Kino pic
>>
>>4245196
Get the 100mm f2.8 too, it's a great fun lens (and cheap)
it's the cheaper version of the 100m f2, heavier and bigger but a high quality lens
>>
>>4245200
Another follow up question. If i do not own a digital camers is it better to just get something like the epson v600 or plustek 8200i? I only shoot 35mm black and white and my wife shoots instax. She has been wanting a way to digitize her instax to post on her computer.
I have absolutely zero interest in a digital camers and if i got one i would not use it for anything besides scanning.

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>>4245346
epson v600 is ass for 35mm (in general all flatbed scanners are ASS for 35mm) but they are from ok to nice for medium and large format so the instax would do fine. The plustek is also a good option for 35mm
>>
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>>4245134
The pasta is cringe indeed, but I often like the questions made at the end of the OP
Anyway, I made a thread with my photos and would appreciate criticism >>4242359
I know it's a lot of photos, but I'm lazy and don't post threads often
Thanks in advance
>>
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Voigtlander Nokton 35mm f/1.2 or f1.4? Leica M mount.
>>
>>4245248
I've got 2 30m waiting to be bulk rolled. Do it
>>4245396
40mm f1.2 AND f1.4. Be a man. But seriously if weight isn't an issue for how long you are carrying your camera, get the 1.2. I got the 40 1.2 and bought the 1.4 because I'm a skeleton manlet and would rather carry around the 1.4 for street
>>
>>4245415
Do you like the 40 over the 35?
Weight isnt a problem, sometimes I carry my RZ if im feeling brave.
>>
>>4245416
I love 40. Never used a 35 or 50 though. I love being different but it's seriously a fucking beautiful lens and focal length. I go out and shoot for hours with only a wrist strap. I once shot a 6 hour event with just my Leica and no straps at all, and the 40 1.2 lol. But yeah I just find 40mm is super natural to me
>>
>>4245323
>plastic bodies are easier to break
>bakelite get fucked easier with time and bad storage than classic aluminum/brass
>can't keep IR film too long because it leak through it
>overall ugly DSLR look
>100% sure to be electronic (if it break it's direct into the trash, while mecanic ones can easily be repared)
who the FUCK CARES?! the eos 650 costs 20 bucks
STILL fucking STILL nobody ITT who can tell me why I should use a AE-1 instead of just an EOS 650. Why does the AE-1 take "better pictures"?
>>
>>4245466
The AE-1 is mostly plastic too so like yeah, just get the EOS.
It even feels sturdier lol.
>>
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This vision2 250t is growing on me now that I can scan it with enough color depth to remove the blue cast.
just some snapshits to check my rangefinder calibration (result: it focuses behind where it should)
>>4245346
do you have a phone with a camera? instax scans tend to be disappointing (they are always soft even with good lenses) anyway so maybe phone pictures is good enough. 35mm scans on flatbed are not great so if you want to scan instax+35mm you'd need to get both for good results

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for this one I was focusing on the closest eye

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>>4245200
For b+w absolutely, with rodinal it's so easy and you can get your pictures in hours instead of weeks. If you don't have a tank already there is some expense I suppose.
The problem with color (and even worse for slide) is the chemicals go bad so quickly and are expensive so you don't want to mix up a fresh batch just for a roll or two. So you end up saving rolls up and not getting your pictures any sooner. But it does give you some more options, like remjet films.

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>>4245466
>STILL fucking STILL nobody ITT who can tell me why I should use a AE-1 instead of just an EOS 650. Why does the AE-1 take "better pictures"?
Why are you wigging out tho?
Did anyone ever say that it would?
Photographers take photos you dip, not cameras.
>>
>>4245365
>would appreciate criticism
I rate them brazil/10.
Only the colours in the landscape photos appeal to me.
Only the 6x6s are of acceptable technical quality.
I don't even know what you're doing in camera to get such poor results on 35mm, but you are then compounding that with your terrible scans, and making it even worse by leaving the frame borders on.
>try to use shutter speeds above 1/30 when hand holding
>even then, try to hold the camera still
>even then, this won't help unless the image is in focus
>even then, don't spam them across multiple threads
>>
I have a roll of fujicolor 100 and was wondering about a post I’ve read on here. Is going one stop higher a meme or a real thing? The other anon seemed pretty convinced.
>>
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>>4245518
It is totally fine on the box speed.

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>>
>>4245466
Canon FD lenses are sometimes better than EF ones but they're peeping level differences mostly. The EOS is the superior machine but I'd recommend the newest you can find instead of the 650. You can get an Elan II for like 30.
>>
>>4245466
Also the reason they think it takes better pics is it was featured in some dumb anime for children that they watch
>>
>>4245159
>>4240356 has 105 images and is currently on page 4. No need to bake new thread on 301.
>>
>>4245565
threads police?
>>
>>4245466
>Why does the AE-1 take "better pictures"
nobody said that, stop grasping straw
You just asked WHY so i gave you some reasons, if you can't choose by yourself then gain some braincells
Now go suck on a dildo since you love plastic so much
Canon in genral is shit build, either you get a proper iron one or you get a better brand.
>>
>>4245466
nigger just buy whatever the fuck you want and quit being a whiny bitch
knock yourself out
spend a 100 bucks and buy 5 of them
stack 4 of them together with hotglue, stick'em up your ass and use the 5th to take the fucking snapshit you want
No one gives a shit whether you buy this or that camera, faggot
>>
>>4245466
I got three 650s for a fiver (seller throwed them in with the 50mm f1.8) before zoomers jumped on the film bandwagon. All been working great. Still solid.
>>
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>>4245254
do you want spoopy? prepare yourself
>>4245279
Yeah that is what I thought when I saw the dude, I expected him to say CYKA at some point lol.
>>4245281
thanks man
>>4245415
Might, I wanna shot another roll and push it first to compare but yes Double XX seems to be a winner for me

On an unrelated topic, do any of you have experience with handheld light meters? Specifically with soviet ones like a Sverdlovsk-4, I want one for times where I am shooting with my medium format camera, I don't trust the one of my phone the camera its too shit to take an accurate reading. My main concern is that seems they are only on GOST but for what I get its not that hard to convert to ASA/ISO (Like GOST 90 = ASA 100) just wondering if they are any good.

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>>4245565
>bake
Qoomer detected
>>
>>4245466
Yeah because you will totally replace the cds cells in an om2

If you’re talking repairable you’re talking NO AE cameras period.
>>
My f601 broke AGAIN
This time its the battery latch door
4th repair in 2 years (3 back doors + this)
I won't give up, it's my godfathers camera, i'll keep it up and working

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>>4245466
Nigga if you want a plastic camera so bad get a Smena 8. If you "need" more, analog photography might not be for you.
>>
>>4245648
> Nigga if you want a woman so bad get a crack whore. If you "need" more, sex might not be for you.
>>
>>4245657
yes?
>>
>>4245668
Breathe pure nitrogen, its basically air its just missing ~21% oxygen its basically the same thing
>>
>>4245670
I would do if I could, oxygen literally kills you.
>>
>>4245671
Damned if you do damned if you don't amirite?
>>
>>4245173
I have an Omega B8 enlarger with a 50mm lens for 35mm and it works well. I just started printing too so I've only used glossy foma RC paper and ilford's PQ universal developer so far. I don't have an easel yet or a grain focuser or filters or anything fancy but it's pretty straightforward to just line it up and eyeball the focusing. it's not like I'm selling prints so they don't need to be perfect while I'm learning. I use a piece of glass from a picture frame to hold everything down. very basic setup so far but want to get more into it as time goes on.
>>
What does rodinal taste like
>>
>>4245789
salty milk and coins
>>
>>4245565
Get fucked cunt.
I expect every post containing or pertaining to the patrician's photographic medium to go straight to the top of the 4 channel's photography board the moment it is published.
>>
>>4245643
The camera is literally called a Nikon Fuck-Goy and here you are feeding it money in its 40th year on earth.
>pottery
>>
>>4245880
>Nikon Fuck-Goy
the fuck are you smoking
i liked it at least way more than the f401 and the FG
>>
Already missing shooting MF with Ektar in the summer

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>>4245134
Do any of you guys have tips for using a flash when shooting film?
>>
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Which one should be my first film camera? Wanna stay with Canon because I have several FD lenses
>>
>>4245991
AE-1 program like Instagram says
T70 if you want to be a /fgt/
>>
>>4245989
Get an auto flash, like a thyristor.
>>
>>4245991
FTb or EF. Trust me.
>>
>>4245959
Friendship ended with PORTRA
Now EKTAR is my best friend
>>
>>4245424
Do you use an external finder or just estimate the framelines?
>>
>>4245991
If you want simple thing : FTb (QL is alright)
If you want all the shit, get an A1
Not an AE1, neither the AE1 program, two piece of shit that are overpriced
>>
>>4245997
I have a SB-800 and a nikon F4
>>
>>4245998
why

>>4246007
thanks

>>4245996
are you serious
>>
>>4245999
EKTAR. IS. KING.

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>>4245996
why does this camera looks like a giant VHS remote control
>>
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>>4245957
They made an
>F-SOI (F501)
>F-GOI (F601)
>F-BOI and F-BOIs (F801 & 801s)
and finally the incredibly based
>NBOOB and NBOOBs (N8008/N8008s)

Nikon's pre-cogs were regurgitating chan language even 4 decades ago.

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>>4246017
Because Canon only hired aspie nerds who liked all the straight lines and lablels on everything.
They invented modern camera design 2 years later (the T90) by hiring a wog who had actually touch grass and fucked women before, and every Canon since then has looked exactly the same.

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>>
Home brewers, do you use a sous vide? I've seen some say you can use it in a bucket or something, and keep the chemical containers in it to have them at the specific temperatures. I've avoided developing because mixing cold and warm water to hit specific temperatures and keep it at it seems like a royal pain in the ass, but this might be a decent way of doing it
>>
>>4246032
B&W can be very forgiving as long as you keep it around 20°C
Rodinal with slow film among all
>pic rel, RPX 25 ISO with rodinal, broken thermometer and aproximative time count
C41 with isotherm container is not very hard as long as you're not a slow retard

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>>4246032
>>4246034
I know that anon is probably speaking about color film so yeah, a sous vide is a good idea.
Otherwise for B&W I don't even measure the temp, just let the water sit a bit a room temperature before adding the chemicals.

Example: HP5 on home made Rodinal

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>>
>>4245996
Dawg what shutterspeed does this camers use when not on auto?
>>
>>4246002
i estimate. the 50mm framelines come up when using the 40, and after shooting with it for a while i generally know where the actual framelines for 40 are. i use an external finder for my 15 and 21mm though
>>
>>4245989
Aperture controls how much flash goes onto the film, shutter speed won't do shit.
A slower shutter will only let in more ambient light into the shot, the flash is so fast even 1/500 is too slow to affect flash light. Make sure you are shooting within the sync speed of the camera, there is usually a little flash icon on the shutter dial or something.

Easy mode, get a TTL flash if your camera supports it ($$$$)

Easier mode is getting something like a Metz, set the ISO + aperture on the flash and shooting, the flash has a sensor on it and cuts the flash early depending on distance. Works with literally any camera with a sync port.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uY60Ifpvxrw

Hard mode is getting a light meter with a manual flash and fucking around that way, I guess you can use a digital camera do a test but thats fucking slow.
>>
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>>4245466
The ae-1 body is 100% plastic too fwiw

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>>4246061
uh.. whatever you want B-1000
>>
>>4246082
Thanks, that's good to know. I've been thinking about getting a 40 since it's my favorite focal length.
>>
>>4246118
no problem. i use an m2 for reference so your viewfinder magnification might be different, but the 50mm framelines are good to start from. i have both for 40 f1.2 and 1.4 voigtlander lenses if you had any more questions
>>
>>4245159
>averageTripfag.jpg
>>
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>>4245518
I love the tonality of fujicolor 100 at box speed. But i've not tried it at other speeds.

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>>4246020
F401 chads rise up?

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I'm like scared to use up the last of my fujicolor 100.

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This weekend was beautiful, so I went out and shot some of whatever stock Fuji 400 actually is.

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>>
>>4246083
I have a F4S and a Nikon Sb-800 so I should be able to do ttl sync stuff. I'd just like to use it so I'm not stuck with using 200-800 speed film indoors and turning on every fucking light for 100 speed and less.
I'd also like to give shooting slide film w/flash a try
>>
>>4246133
The curves are pretty much lined up with Kodak Gold's. And fix the blue cast in your scan.
>>
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>>4245673
Have you had any issues drying RC papers? I just tried to printing on old FB paper. It is "waving" a bit when drying but to be honest this is not the biggest problem of that paper lol
I don't have any fancy stuff either, but damn, I think a darkroom timer is a must have after my first attempt at printing last night.

Going to try Foma RC this weekend but timer first

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>>
>>4245544
does anyone have vintage Nikkor recommendations here?
>>
Do you suppose 400ISO is fast enough for an awards ceremony?
>>
>>4246148
An indoor one, I want to take photos of someone on stage while I'm in the audience
>>
>>4246148
No it is not enough. How much light on the stage? What is the fastest tele-lens you have?
>>
>>4246010
Mechanical, full manual.
>>
>>4246150
I don't even know yet how the lighting will be. I would probably be bringing a f/3.5-f/4.5 28-85mm lens. I don't think it's a very large ceremony.

If it's too dim I'll probably just get a photo of this person before/after the awards in sunlight.
>>
>>4246157
I guess it will be better to push cinestil/portra800/lomo800 to 1600 or 3200 if you are going to color. Will have contrasty look but valid anyway
>>
>>4246158
I only have 400 speed film in color and B&W so since this is tomorrow I'm just gonna have to make do, I guess.
>>
>>4246139
you can shoot any iso with flash, but you will blind everyone you take photos of, try and do 1/30 indoor to get more ambient if you are feeling brave
>>
>>4246159
i would do the b&w at 3200. f4.5 3200iso and 1/50th is exposing for EV5. if its very bright you can go higher shutter speed. i can shoot 400 color indoors but thats cause i use a f1.2 or f1.4.
>>
Anyone willing to participate?

https://emulsive.org/articles/emulsive-secret-santa-2023-registration-for-year-9-is-open-until-november-19th
>>
>>4246151
mechanical = not plastic body, right?
and why is full manual important? I'm new to film btw
>>
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I'm kinda liking these catlabs aerocolor colors
Not so much the nasty bloom effect. I guess my lens must be dirty though it doesn't look bad. I've found that pec pads do a terrible job of cleaning, they just smear the grease and dirt around rather than remove it.
>>
>>4246180
Mechanical = you wind the film and cock the shutter, not a motor.
Full manual means you can take full control over the settings.

Get whatever you like, dont let elitists steer your decision.
Plastic bodied cameras are nice because they're light and they don't cost very much.

Metal bodied cameras are nice because they feel good in the hand and (generally) will take a harder bump than plastic cameras.
>>
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>>4246227
>Plastic bodied cameras are nice because they're light and they don't cost very much.
true
pic rel was the best choice for traveling (as tourist) I have ever made. Small, weights nothing, smart and fast, 1/4000. At the same time traveling with manual focus camera was more complicated in all aspects.

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>>4246174
I already registered:3
>>
>>4246227
thanks man, this helps

>>4246243
which camera did you use?
>>
>>4246359
>which camera did you use?
planned to attach that one. Minolta XTsi a.k.a. 505si Super QD
>>
>>4246142
This woman will love this print.
>>
Fucking hell, my filter is stuck tight on the lens, and no amount of force can get it off. Tried using a dedicated filter wrench, but damn near disassembled the lens in the process.
>>
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half frame panoramas are fun
>>
>>4246512
Weld a coated electrode to it and use it as a lever, don't use too much current or yol'll crack the glass.
>>
>>4246512
Arc joint pliers of course

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>>4246512
Did you try tightening it? It may be cross-threaded.
>>
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>>4246593
Yeah because we all know that crossthreading means you convert your thread to left hand thread

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>>4246594
You can cross-thread while loostening something if it had a dented or dirty thread when you tightened it. It depends which side of the flank is damaged and how... you can go right past it no problem when tightening, then get stuck when loosening. Especially if you're wrenching on it hard trying to take it off. Going back and forth will straighten the crest of the thread.
>>
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>>4246596
I aint never had this issue neither on cameras or cars.
Maybe because I donkey strength unwrench all my shit and dont fucking wiggle it, my wrists may not be muscular but the bone be thick, hit it until its loose

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>>4246600
Well yeah, but a lens is a lot more delicate. Threads work the same way in either direction... a left-hand thread is just a right-hand thread being used from the other end. There's really no difference between tightening and loosening until the very end when you torque, and most cross-threading doesn't even happen during torquing. It happens during normal tightening/loosening where you're just moving thread and the loads are identical. It's just that people expect increasing resistance while tightening so don't realize and stop in time. People stop immediately when meeting resistance during loosening though, because it's obvious that something is wrong. And what do they do? Tighten again to look and see the problem. Also threads are generally protected by the fastener so it's less common to run into when removing, but it can still happen. I've had to fix machine heads plenty of times due to this, and it's usually caused by grit or corrosion because people think Loctite is more important than anti-seize.

Even if it isn't cross-threaded and is just corroded, the same applies. Always try tightening a bit if loosening doesn't work. I'd try heating it with a hairdryer as well for expansion. Don't break lenses with brute force if you can help it. Also you're more fun when you aren't drunk.

/autism
>>
>>4246606
>/autism
crank that thing oppan screw-it style
>>
>>4246612
Nah, meticulously take it apart without doing any more damage then fix the threads and charge extra. Or mirror the threads and thread over the threads with a coarser pitch thread like a total badass. Or just be this guy:

https://youtu.be/v96LTfmtDPU?si=i930W1uGUxbNqUnX
>>
>>4246606
>a left-hand thread is just a right-hand thread being used from the other end
lol what
turn a right handed nut around, it still works right handed
I think I just bit the b8
>>
>>4246616
Kek, you did but it was laid out for the drunk guy... it's mirrored, obviously.
>>
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>>4246617
sry to drunk 2 read all that shit just fucking punch the filter glass out and bend the ring inwards with pliers, fuck the filter save the lens
>>
>>4246620
Honestly what I'd do if fucking with it didn't work after more than 5 minutes. Bend it, snip it, peel it out.
>>
>>4246620
What I did to save a KMZ Helios with a broken, bent and stuck skylight filter a while ago
>>
>>4246621
>>4246625
we've all been there
BORN TO CUT
GLASS IS A FUCK
精神CRUSH EM ALL 1987
I am photo man
410,757,864,350 SMASHED FILTERS
>>
i love this thread because literally none of the photos posted in here are even decent let alone good and yet they represent 100s of dollars of film processing and lab scans and 1000s of dollars of shitty old gear that gets mogged by a nikon d40 and a kit lens. fucking cringe
>>
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>>4246686
Jokes on you, my camera was 15 bucks and I make my own chemicals.

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will looksmaxxing, weil ich so klein bin aber hab einfach keine nerven dafür
+ bin zu geizig für die kleidung
>>
ive got some cinema film from reflex lab with remjet,
anyone tried removing the remjet, drying the film then shooting it?
not really sure how im going to do it yet, i guess load the film in the dev tank, remove remjet with soda and somehow attempt to tape the film back together in the canister.
>>
>>4246713
I've done some thinking on this matter, though my intent would be to de-remjet from bulk rolls and respool into 100' cans for future use. Removing the remjet is not that hard, it just takes soaking in washing soda water and rubbing. The hard part is drying it afterwards so it doesn't stick together or mold. If you have a bona-fide darkroom maybe this is less of a problem since you can just hang it up for a day or two. You may also have trouble telling if you've got it clean or not in the dark.
At the end of the day your goal is probably to convince a lab to dev your film, and I don't know what the bar is for that. If you just pull the film out, scrub it and wind it back in, there will be some remjet remaining at the very end of the roll. And even if you remove it from the roll entirely is the lab going to believe you? At the end of the day I think home dev or whole spools at a time is the only good solution.
>load the film in the dev tank, remove remjet with soda
I haven't had any luck with it just coming off due to chemicals. I have to rub it underwater after finishing dev even with soda prebath and significant agitation. I assume in ECN2 there is some sort of scrubber roller that takes it off.
>>
>>4246719
I feel like if you're gonna put that much effort into removing remjet why not just develop yourself
>>
>>4246730
yeah or just buy film that doesn't have remjet on it
You can get movie film cheap and in bulk sometimes which could justify it. But I imagine the labs would throw your reusable canisters away so you'd have to buy new ones every time. My goal with the respooling idea would be to sell most of a full roll de-remjetted so I could pretend that buying a shitload of film is a good investment. And the only non-remjet bulk color film I know of is nc400 and it kinda sucks at least based off the sample images. But I'm not gonna do it, just daydream about it. Probably get fucked by cinestill if I tried anyway.
>>
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this is more of a theoretical question. lets say i have a film that has a very large latitude, say HP5, where the density curve is very straight for a wide exposure. if what i capture only exists in the linear part of the curve, does it matter *where* on the curve that is? see pic attached, if i have a frame taken where EV sits in the red zone, another in the blue zone
i understand a denser negative is better etc but in this case no shadows or highlights are blocked. if i was scanning these two on a home setup, will i end up with the exact same photo after adjusting for it being denser? or will the denser one have more detail somewhere?
>>
>>4246745
The main thing for me is that scanners have more difficulty with unusually thin or dense negatives so as you get further from the density the scanner was designed for you may get more digital noise or banding.
I'm sure there are differences in the shape and size of the film grain too but I don't know much specific.
>>
I bought a Mamiya 645. What am I in for?
>>
>>4246780
You are on the way of good decisions my man
>>
>>4246686
You’re burning….Seething.
>>
>>4246739
Sell it as 799T lmao
>>
>>4246780
A Mamiya RB67
>>
>>4246739
Sell it as 801 classic adventure like the husky
>>
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I've had three friends tell me this picture was terrible and two who liked it. Ignoring whatever political beliefs you have, is this any good?

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>>4246818
Technically not that great with all that grain that makes it look like an extreme crop or something, artistically it works reasonably enough, almost looks like a poster with the flag framing it all and the crowd looking towards you.
Also fuck Israel and fuck Zelenski
>>
>>4246818
The composition's great. The grain just makes it look like it was taken in '67.
>>
>>4246818
objectively, the flag sort of frames it and balances the angle of the guy with the megaphone
subjectively, the flag is distracting and I would prefer if it wasn't there
>>
>>4246818
>bunch of arabs
>covid diapers
>looks like it was taken with a toy camera (could be 4chan compressing tho)
>obese white knight as the center of attention
it's gonna be a no for me but I absolutely hate muslims so I might be biased
>>
>>4246826
nigger die
>>
>>4246873
>t. circumcised kike
>>
>>4246818
Could be better
the flag gets in the way, it's too grainy and the guy in the center needs to lose 20kg and fix his posture
>>
>>4246818
edit the soichud out and you're good
>>
>>4246686
>>4246686
>>4246686
>>4246686
Here's a photo of about $2k in gear, taken with an FM3a and Zeiss lens worth another $2500 :^)
This is what real art looks like, sweaty. Don't hate, participate.

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>>4246686
And lets not forget, scanned with an A7rII, and a $600 macro lens on a $200 adapter and about $600 in flash gear.
Paid about $3 for the roll of film, and $7 for processing :^)

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>>4246916
nice chromabs on that scheiss
>>
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>>4246922
Guess what my easy fix is for chromatic abberation?

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>>4246927
>I just lose the aberration with the rest of the color
My solution is just not using overrated scheiss glass
>>
>>4246949
I'm pretty happy with it tbqhfam

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>>4246687
>I make my own chemicals.
really?
>>
>>4246961
Great example of when nerds try to do photography.
>>
>>4247063
NTA but it's not that hard
Whether or not it's worth it depends on how much you shoot or if you have other uses for the chemicals, because normally you buy much more of them than you'd need for a single batch.
OTOH for color stuff it's worth it especially at low shooting volumes, since the pure, dry color dev keeps much better than the kits you can buy
captcha:KKKXT2
>>
Did anyone here have good experiences with drug store film development?
Pretty much everyone I've asked told me that the results were terrible
>>
very very dumb question: if i took a photo with no lens on while there was film inside, will the light have fucked up the frames i already took since the light would have bounced around on the inside (rather than it being projected in a single direction from a lens). i did this while inside my room with the light on, not outside
>>
>>4247113
>rather than it being projected in a single direction from a lens
lens projection is round and goes way around the rectangle frame, as long as you didn't expose for minutes long you shouldn't have anything
>>
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Somber forest shits.

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>>4247165

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>>4247167

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>>4247168

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>>
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>>4247169

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>>
>>4247084
Do you know a guide on how to make your own color dev?
>>
>>4247173
I used this https://tinker.koraks.nl/photography/color-me-purple-some-color-developer-formulas-including-c41-and-ra4/
You will probably also want to look up bleach and fixer recipes
>>
Is there any point in instamatic, at all? Why did these cameras exist in the first place?
>>
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How come my 120 fomapan rolls sometimes have this circle on the last frame?

Can I do something to avoid it, or is it just a part of the foma experience?
>>
>>4247255
>instamatic
Ultra cheap, piss easy, easily manufacturable. Then the japanese p&s flooded the market
>>
>>4247318
is it there when you use different cameras ?
Might be a slight light leak
>>
>>4247318
That looks like the perfect size for a frame counter witness hole.

Do you leave your film on the last frame for a long time before winding it fully onto the takeup spool?
>>
>>4247324
Doesn't seem to be camera related, and none of my cameras have that circular red window frame counter hole (or whatever it's called) on the back.

Would be a strange light leak too, and it only appears on foma rolls

>>4247325
I usually wind it instantly onto the takeup spool
>>
Just picked one of these up for $20. Is it any good??

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>>4247328
it's easy to use so according to this general this camera is absolutely shit and useless
this general will tell you to buy a camera from 1965
>>
>>4246024
>wog
Anon, Luigi Colani is German and that's not even his real name
>>
Got the filter off, but it turns out the lens needs repairs as well. Fuck my life.
>>
>>4247334
>tell you to buy a camera from 1965
any camera made after 1960 is shit, yes.
>>
>>4247255
Its a cheap, stupidly easy to use (cart loading) camera back in the day. Trips & EE's were a bit more premium.
I had a instamatic 33 (126 film) as a kid back in the 80's. Used to shoot school trips,holidays etc
>>
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Holy shit I am not sure what happened here but its really scratched
>>
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I like my new F4, glad I bought it,

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>>4247452
The F4's a hidden gem. The Manual Focus fetishists won't touch it because autofocus, and the Gear Queers usually go for the 5 and 6. I should get one some time as my first autofocus.
>>
>>4247470
Yeah I got it just because I acquired a large amount of Nikon AF lenses practically for free, even the body I got for a steal. Might try an F5 in the future to go with VR lenses.
>>
>>4246512
>ried using a dedicated filter wrench, but damn near disassembled the lens in the process.
damn, that sucks. Maybe a solvent or penetrating oil would help.

>>4247083
lol

>>4247088
Drug stores don't have minilabs anymore. They just send it out to a shitty service. If it were still 1995 it'd be fine for casual photos and snapshots but sadly it is not.

>>4247324
how could a light leak make a black mark on the photo though?
>>
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>>4245134
Can anyone tell me how much film and processing costs in Japan? I might go on a trip there and I just want to have a rough idea. Is film pretty easily available? Will the security workers at their airports oblige a request for a hand check of film when coming in and flying out? What types of film are available? And do they have 1 hour photo type places?

Any info would be appreciated anons

reposting a pic I saved from a thread here some time ago
>>
>>4247452
how do you manage to get chromabs on black and white film?
very implessive
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>>4247577
how did you manage to lose your trip?
>>
>>4247083
I'm glad you like it <3

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>>4247518
The camera store I went to got it off no problem, but they discovered that the lens needed fixing, so when it rains it pours.
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>>4247585
Velvia 50 or 100; who's the boss?
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>>4247577
dunno, might have been the lens I scanned with.
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>>4247735
Velvia 100 is quite bad. It blocks up much faster in the shadows and leans more green than velvia 50's more appealing magenta.
Velvia 50 > Velvia 100F > Velvia 100

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>>4247735
The extra latitude of 100 is always welcome, and I honestly think it's sharp enough.
I pretty much get whole rolls of 100 back with usable images.
Velvia 50 is nowhere near as forgiving, honestly if you're shooting in light that's too harsh you should simply put the camera away. BUT... it is next level when it works.
Pic related, Velvia 100 (no idea if "f" or not) in harsh light. *camera may have used fill flash, idk

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>>4247925
vs what you should expect from Velvia 50.
You'll note the sky is blown out and a shadow cast under open sky is un-recoverable in the one frame.
I metered off the lit area of the hedge, for new players this is a cheat hack for metering in challenging scenes; take a reading off green grass in the same light as your subject and you'll have essentially your incident reading/middle grey reflected.
As you can see, RVP50 will still fuck you.

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>>4247165
>*forest-reee
These are bad, plantation pine is ugly.
Are we to assume that you used a Wista 45 and FP4 for these?
Congratulations on getting any contrast at all out of FP4, honestly the only photos I've ever had from it that I liked were portraits and/or underexposed.
The mossy knob is sharp though.

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What are some resources on developing black and white film at home. I am confused on how yo maintain temperature and how to get the chemicals to the proper temp.
>>
>>4248025
1. put water in the fridge
2. dilute the developer
3. develop
4. ???
5. profit

you don't need a chemistry degree to do this
>>
I like my camera but the fact that it has a center weighted whole frame averaging meter and no spot meter causes me pain.
>>
>>4248025
For B&W negative only developer should be as close as possible to right temperature. And its not as critical as with color. Put the bottles in a tub of water in right temperature for a while before starting.
Other chemicals and washing water should not be in hugely different temperature because sudden temperature change will cause reticulation.
>>
>>4247577
shitty nikon AF-d glass. canon FD hell even FL MOGS the shit out of that trash
>>
>>4248025
b+w is usually done at 20deg C,
put all your chems in bottles / mixing tubes in a pot and add warm water from a kettle, eventually they will all balance out the same temp, if its too hot just wait it out.

this is really helpful for knowing the temp/time/dilution to use with your film and developer https://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
>>
>>4248025
Just buy a thermometer and measure the developer stock temperature, then add necessary amount of correct temperature water relative to the stock temperature and wanted dilution.

E.g. if you develop in 20 celsius, and your stock is your room temperature (like 22 celsius), and you're making 1:1 dilution, you would add 18 celsius water to it that you measure from the tap.

Maintaining isn't necessary imo unless you're developing for an hour in a sauna or freezer, but if you'd want to be careful maybe have a big pot of water in dev temp and put the tank there in between rotations
>>
>>4245134
Only losers sneed at Foma, everyone knows all panchromatic B&W stocks are the same fucking silver crystals in an emulsion. What changes is the base. Kodak, Ilford, Fuji and Kentmere are literally Foma on different bases.
>>
>>4248117
by that logic everyone should be shooting Shanghai GP3 only.

t. I do
>>
>>4248120
Pssst... Shangai is Foma too
>>
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I guess this roll of Superia 200 was from 2006. Just stored in the basement

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>>4248117
Size and shape of the crystals do change the character though.

You've never made a pasta dish with different shapes of pasta for a different experience?

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>>4248030
I do not have a chemistry degree.
>>4248032
Ok thank you, this is helpful because i do not have a chemistry degree.
>>4248044
Thank you, that app seems very helpful for people that don’t have a fricken chemistry degree like myself.
>>
Half-frame Olympus Pen EE-3 with (new) Fujicolor 400 for trick-or-treating activities tonight boyos
>>
Hey anons, noob here.
So I tested this weekend my Ektar H35 with a Kodak Colorplus 400, have not printed yet but it went smoothly, except I have not been able to make the flash functions.
But here is the problem, on sunday I was going to test some indoor photos, just for testing with the other roll I have, an Kodak Gold 200.
I fucked up something, idk exactly what (was drunk at the time) and knew I had to take of the roll, so I rewinded it.
But now the tip of the roll went inside and no matter how I tried with somen tweezers but did not work.
What do I do? Did I just lost the film?
>>
>>4248405
dont try with tweezers anymore, you probably introduced lightleaks if you are shoving something in between the felt to try get the film out. you can either use a film retriever, take it to a lab (they will use one) or you can try to do it by wetting the end of another film leader, putting it in and pulling it out fast. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uu6bijP7RyI
>>
>>4248405
if you are self developing you can just open up that bitch in the dark pulling it open.

The lab will have no issues since they use a film retriver or just crack it open
>>
I found a roll of Kodak Gold 200 (leader out) in the bag of old rolls of shot film (leader in) that's been in my parent's fridge for forever or c. early 2000s. should I shoot and dev the Gold at 200 since it's been in the fridge all this time?
>>
>>4248025
To be honest you don't even need to be that accurate with your temps on B&W unlike color with modern chemicals and film as long as you aren't developing them in near freezing or boiling water, as that will mostly just affect the actual time of development, and reticulation doesn't really occur unless you have wild fluctuation in temperature through the process. Just get it around 20C and you'll be fine. It's almost impossible to fuck up.
>>
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>>4248520
Yes. See: >>4248149

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>>4248231
How'd it go?
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>>4248405
time to buy a $9 leader retriever and keep it on hand

>>4245134
Has anyone used Reflx labs 800T film? It's just vision3 with the remjet removed, but the scans I've seen online often look like shit and I don't know if it's bad scans or if they're somehow messing up the emulsion in their process.
>>
>>4248537
I thought we were leaving earlier than we did so I didn't bother to bring it. there wasnt even street lamps so it wouldn't have worked out.
>>
>>4248535
alright, lookin good! I'll just shoot at 200
>>
>>4248541
Aw man that sucks, been there done that.
I always keep a flash on hand incase I'm going to an event or congregation. Ya never know when things will turn dark.
>>
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haps Halloween

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>>4248604
sp-oooo-key
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owner of an FE2 here, a very very tiny bit of foam fell out from where the light seals are supposed to be. is this bad enough to warrant some fixes?
>>
>>4248619
there are no foam on the photo. Would be nice to replace all that shit with fresh light seals
>>
>>4248619
Nah fuckit, my FE2 has sticky and shitty seals around that whole groove and its more light tight than a priests asshole.
It's the side with the hinge you gotta worry about, when those seals fail you're fucked big time. But since changing seals suck (not difficult, just annoying) i personally leave it until it starts showing up on frames.

The groove is essentially a light trap anyway since it's two 90 degree bends, the foam's just extra assurance.
>>
I refuse wide angles, my two lens kit is a 50 and a 135
>>
>>4248745
ok. keep up to date
>>
>>4248745
28 and 35 are pretty useless desu (35 is just p&s tier and 28 is phone camera tier)
24 and under is where it get interesting
>>
>>4248783
I really like it when a wide angle has a close focusing distance.
>>
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>>4248806
Hello!

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>>4248819
hell yeah. Feels nice and creative y'know
>>
>>4248783
>needing interesting lenses to make interesting photos
>>
>>4248823
Its redundant
>>
>>4248823
>wanting an engaging experience while you create
>this is somehow a bad thing

Let me guess, you never do anything for the fun of it?
When you're happy, your stone cold face would put a mummy to shame wouldnt it?
>>
>>4248821
>Feels nice and creative y'know
so edgy! oof..

Anyway 28mm is nice, but not my type of lens. 35mm is a great everyday glass. I like to use both them for portraits when I want a bit more space in a frame.
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olympus OM2N 50mm

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>>4248858

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>>4248860

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>>4248862
I would like some honest feedback on these photos. These were the I've had developed in probably over 10 years.

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>>4248858
The first two are great, very pretty, third one is a snapshit (i see where you were going with this shoot, but its bland), and the last one has missed focus
what did you use to develop and scan ?
>>
>>4248873
Third one was a snapshit, but wanted to see how the lighting turned out. It was early morning. Fourth I was stoned on a hike, really wish I would have had it in focus better.

For development, I dropped it at a local place here, mostly because I wanted to make sure the camera I had was functional and never developed my own film, so wanted to rule out any issues that could have arisen from doing it myself. No idea what they used.
>>
>>4248826
So certain focal lengths, by their nature, are not engaging? Wat
>>
>>4248891
For some people no. Its entirely subjective.
>>
>>4248878
>really wish I would have had it in focus better.
Me too, it would have been a great shoot
you should get a 100mm, it's a very nice lens (the f2.8 is great but if you can get the f2 then you're golden)
>>
>>4248891
28mm is the now standard for regular phone camera, so shooting a camera to get the same FoV you get everytime you use your fun is not very interesting.
24 and wider is unusal and a breath of fresh air
>>
>>4248906
28 is a classic. It's popular because it works. Add shallower depth of field and better quality from full frame and 28 is great.

Also, the new itoddler's focal length is 24mm, same for the new samshit. Phone UWAs are usually around 14mm. The sensor size is close enough to 1" to make micro four thirds pointless except for homosexuals I mean birdwatchers.
>>
>>4248908
>Also, the new itoddler's focal length is 24mm, same for the new samshit.
another retard that cant read
I literally said it's the standard for regular phone camera, you're talking about shit that came out a month ago.
you like your boring 28, wonderful, now either post some pictures or go back to your snoy-posting
>>
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>>4248612
Ya was stoked it turned out that way!

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>>4248908
>make micro four thirds pointless except for homosexuals I mean birdwatchers.
HERE WE FUCKING GO AGAIN
>>
>>4248904
I have been looking around here for some other lenses. ty
>>
why yes I will share my snapshits

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>>4249110

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>>4249111

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>>4249113

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>>4249114
I’m excited the voigtlander I don’t remember buying on eBay works

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>buy m645
>walk around and take pics like I normally do
>results look the same as my 35mm shit just with nicer bokeh
Probably should have expected this but I'm also sorta stupid. The lens seems to really want to do portraits, or something more subject focused to exaggerate that 3d mf look. Anyone else have a similar experience when making the jump? I feel like I've probably got to just explore other styles in general to get what I want out of the mamiya
>>
HP5 at 1600 or Delta 3200 at 1600?
>>
>>4249329
You can probably scan it to a higher res but yeah it's 645 what do you expect. Get a 6x9 or something
>>
>>4249329
I feel like I get better tonality and 3d effect when shooting 6x6 than 645, and even more when shooting 6x9 Even shitty film looks gorgeous at 6x9.

I guess that if I could shoot 4x5 I would end cumming
>>
>>4249671
Delta 400 at 1600. Has much smoother grain than p3200 and contrast is not too hard.
Delta 400 at 3200 is also good but it is tricky to shoot portraits because you have to control light on the skin, to save information in highlights.
>>
Is it pure insanity to only like uktramax when it pushes to 800? should i be locked up in the loony bin??
>>
>>4249698
How's it look tike?
>>
>>4249704
Finally interesting.
Here are some examples.
https://www.lomography.com/films/871966474-kodak-ultramax-400-35mm-pushed-to-800/photos
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>>4249705
Huh so more contrasty with more pronounced colour casts.
Looks kinda similar to pro100 pushed to 800

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Someone needs to make a fucking Agfacolor clone right now
>>
>>4249705
looks good! idk if my lab push/pulls C-41, that's why I've never tried pushing color film... any tips bros?
>>
>>4249763
Self dev, its so fuckin easy.
I found it harder to find an affordable scanning solution.
>>
>>4249766
true... I self dev b&w and dlsr scan so I've got the equipment
>>
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>>4249704
Pretty good for me as well. Of course, for lower light, shooting it is absolute hell, but for indoors shots it's more than good enough.

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>>4249758
Isnt orwo color film literally that
>>
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Hey anons. Some weeks ago I asked which camera was the most economical to buy nowadays, with film being expensive and all. I ended up buying a Chinon CM-5. I got it for 32 USD, came with a bag and a 200mm lens. Many recommended getting early Y2K shit, but my bids didn't go through.
The question is now how to reveal cheaply. I'm thinking of using Caffenol but I don't want to buy a patterson tank. Any ideas?
>ib4 get a job jamal
no.
>>
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>>4247519
I can't answer most of your questions, but I was just in Japan from July to August. When I was leaving, the airport security line was packed af, but they were perfectly happy to handcheck my film. Same for my connection in Dallas; even when the worker walking between wait lines seemed cranky as hell, he put on a smile when I asked if they could handcheck
>(pic related noisy snapshit at kinkaku-ji)

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>>4249111
>checked
ngl I like the frame on the left. what is it exactly?
>>
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>>4249874
just remembered I prob should have mentioned that this was at Haneda airport. also, Olympus OM2-n with 50mm 1.8 and nu Fuji 200. portable!

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>>4249853
a shitty used tank is like 15-20 bucks, a good one (jobo 1136) 25-30
Alternatively you can just buy a spiral and use a 100mm soup can with a lid as the tank, but this needs a completely dark room.
Or you can 3d-print a spiral and a lid for the soup can
But at the end of the day a shitty used tank is like 15-20 bucks
>>
>>4249781
Im confused, in theory with pushing couldnt you shoot in lower light?
I’m new to pushing and pulling so I’m not sure how it works.
>>
>>4249911
Yes. Let's say you have a roll of 400iso film you want to shoot in lower light. You set your meter to 800iso and shoot accordingly. You've now underexposed the film by 1 stop. When you develop it, you then overdevelop the film by developing it as if it were 800. This (mostly) evens things out and gets you a usable image.
>>
What's everyone shooting this weekend? Delta 3200 and double x yesterday, today is some color and a mix of random stocks I have left over at the beach
>>
>>4249950
Agfa APX 400 for me, I'm testing this AE1 before I sell it
>>
>>4249707
Damn, that's pretty nice.

>>4249911
Yes, but it's not that simple. The film is as sensitive as it is, and that's that. In the shadows, if the light wasn't enough to record detail on the film, no amount of extra developing will create detail where it doesn't exist to begin with. Pushing film will increase contrast, saturation, and grain. It can help when the film is underexposed, but it's not the equivalent of shooting a faster film. As far as I know, pushing is required to bring contrast back into the correct range for RA4 printing if the film is underexposed. I've heard that if you're only scanning your film, it might not be worth pushing the film since scanners do better with lower contrast anyway.
>>
>>4249853
as someone anon you can get a tank that will last you a lifetime for 20

as for developer I will rec rodinal, even if you dont want to buy it you can make some with painkillers and drain cleaner
>>
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Just bought pic related. Time to feel American superiority
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>>4249988
>>4249926
If i prefer deeper focus would pushing my film help by enabling me to stop up my aperture?
>>
>>4249991
comedy gold, even soviet shit is better
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>>4249992
sure, but only by a couple stops anyway since typically you don't push film more than a stop or two. And it'll come at the expense of lowered dynamic range and increased grain.
>>
>>4249992
Yes. I've shot 200 speed film at 800 many many times in daylight because I wanted to shoot at f11 and not f5.6 or whatever
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>>4249992
Yup, but you have to know the limits of your film. Something like Tri-X pushes incredibly well, and can go up to +5 if you're a lunatic who develops at home. Usually, however, +1 or +2 is the most you want to do. Something like ProImage pushes to +3 pretty well, which is awesome for a color film.
>>
>>4250004
> Usually, however, +1 or +2 is the most you want to do.
I would say, usually it’s +2 or +3 because major part of films can handle 1 stop underexposing really well. So you don’t need to do Push process just to compensate 1 stop of light, you can do it in the darkroom/lightroom.
>>
It's over.
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>>4249885
>>4249989
I hate the idea of spending 20 bucks for something like that, but w/e. I don't have time to build one and getting the metal things will probably yield worse results and a lot of time wasted. So yeah, I'll bite.
And thanks for the rodinol suggestion.
>>
>>4250197
Do you have a plan what to do with developed negatives?
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>>4250197
there's a documentary on Tichy somewhere you can use for ideas if you're dead set on trashmaxxing
>>
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>>4249950
yesterday I loaded HP5+ in the Canon T70 at 1600 iso then there's the Pen EE-3 with Fujifilm 400
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This IR shit is alright, though focusing is a bit of an annoyance
I'm wondering if I could 3d print some kind of shim that goes onto the lens to trick the rangefinder into showing the IR focus point instead of the normal focus

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>>4249983
cool, ive got 1 roll of apx 100 but never used it yet
>>4250316
nice. that actually makes me think, why dont they release density curves for pushed hp5? i need a super high speed film (about 6400) when shooting in daylight (i want to try something new) but im having trouble deciding which one to use, hp5 or delta 3200 or something else. maybe ill try one of each
>>
Can anyone figure out from this blurry picture which film camera model this is ?
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>>4250619
minolta hi-matic af-2 (or another one first generation af pns)
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>>4250625
thank u anon
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>>4250614
if you wanna shoot 6400 i'd say go with delta 3200, it'll give you more density than hp5 for sure
>>
https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/harman-photo-cryptic-announcement-teaser.202435/

Well bros? What do we think it's going to be? I've got my fingers crossed hoping it'll be a color film that will sell for BELOW the current market price for color film. Not necessarily really cheap, but at least not $12 a roll.

I think there are some signs that point towards Harman potentially revealing a color film. A new big player in color film would be a dream come true.
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>>4250917
Just because of the Phoenix mascot of that company I guess there are only 4 options can be introduced:
1. Ilfocolor (made by someone else. I don’t believe Ilford still owns color line)
2. Cibachrome (same but too much complicated to reproduce)
3. Manual of photography (would be nice)
4. Some reorganization issues, bankruptcy, Harman reunion with Ilford, whatever

3 and 2 would be nice, 1 and 4 I don’t care.
I don’t believe something as good as Portra can be released now, so one more ORWO or LOMO shitcolor film on the market won’t change anything.
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>>4250945
>company
Campaign of course
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>>4250945
"Ilfocolor" already exists, but like you said it's not actually made by ilford, it's just contracted out stuff, so nothing new there. One thing to note is that Ilford the company doesn't exist anymore, it's just that Harman owns the rights to use "Ilford" to sell B&W products. I don't know how this ilfocolor thing is OK under that agreement, I guess there was some exception worked out.

I think Cibachrome would be cool, but it is complicated and the market is probably to small. A photography manual would be pretty cool, though.

>Harman reunion with Ilford
This seems likely, I hope that's not the case because it'd be a big tease for nothing.
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>>4248405
get another roll of film, wet it a little, shove it in there, twist the stuck one until it grabs, pull it out fast.
might take a few tries but it does work, I did it to a roll that I fucked up with and didn't actually take any shots with
>>
Does anyone know what the rebranded films are? I know Lomography's Berlin is just rebranded ORWO (and nice stuff, too), and FPP 125 is repackaged Svemacolor, but there's so much of it happening for B&W films that it's hard to keep things straight. I'm trying out various B&W stocks, and I'd like to avoid duplicating just because the same film was sold under two different labels.
>>
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I have this camera
It's a Nikon FM (I think)
Is it good? What lense can I use

I don't know much aboout cameras, I only have a digital. Nikon D3300 w kit lens
>>
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>>4253546
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>>4253546
I have these expired ones. Irc expired give trippy experimental pics
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>>4253546
The Nikon FM is a great camera, and it uses Nikon AI and AI-S lenses or their third-party counterparts. I'd grab a Series E 50mm f/1.8, and learn with that.
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>>4253546
yep it's good, >>4253555 is kinda wrong, you can use any F mount lens on the original FM. pop back the indexing tab if using an non AI lens and they will fit. Get an old pre ai 50mm 1.4. Dont get a basic bitch plastic series E lol.
>>4253551
expired HR 1600 speed i guarantee will be quite experimental
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>>4253561
Yeah, I recommended the AI stuff because I'm too lazy to pop the tab back. Bonus points if you get the 1.4, because it's one of the few manual lenses Nikon still services.
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>>4253555
I think I'm gonna get one of these E series the others are too expensive
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>>4253587
Make sure it's a manual focus. Some autofocus lenses work just fine on the FM, but more recent ones lack an aperture ring or manual focus capability.
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>>4253588
You mean something like pic rel?

Would it really be better than the one I posted earlier? It was AF but it doesn't have a rotor or whatever so I don't know what that means, maybe I can use it on my D3300 later?

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>>4253728
>>4253546
I managed to put my D3300 lens on my Nikon FM. Does this mean it works or what? It kinds looks like shit though pls don't bully me
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>>4253587
if you want a cheapoid nikkor get a AI/AI converted nikkor H auto 50mm f2
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>>4253730
retard
>>4253835
based
>>
>>4253546
>>4253548
>>4253551
post in the newest thread anon



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