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File: 000059.jpg (3.25 MB, 5031x3387)
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Experimental edition
Tell us all about your expired film, cross-processing, fungus lenses and boiling chemicals. Whatever film boomers tell you not to do.

>Community links
35mmc.com
Casualphotophile.com
Emulsive.org
istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
industrieplus.net/dxdatabase

previous thread
>>4042478

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>>
>>4046859
Guys i have a question about medium format film
Since the "captor" is bigger, i get that focal lenght value should be divided by half when comparing to 24x36 (like 180mm MF lens become equivalent to 90mm for 24x36)
my question is : does that have the same impact for aperture ? like, is a f/4.5 on MF becomes a f/2,8 ?
>>
>>4046885
I don't think so, at least as far as exposure goes it would be the same settings on MF or 135. If I shoot a scene at 2.8 it'll be the same on both cameras.

>>4046859
My paycheck from my part time job came in. This might be the day I decide to buy a bulk roller and 100 feet of film. But I'm still not sure.
>>
>>4046885
Exposure wise no but DoF wise yes.
>>
>>4046885
It's more complicated. In sense of light f/2.8 for small format equals to f/2.8 in medium format. In depth of field sense you can check this calculator http://bobatkins.com/photography/technical/dofcalc.html
>>
>>4046892
So if i understand well if i shoot f/8 @ 1/125 both format will exposed the same, but the medium format will have a shallower DoF ?
Also does that affect sharpness ? As a 50mm will have peak sharpness at f/8 - f/11, the medium format will be at f/22 ?
>>
>>4046889
>But I'm still not sure.
you think film prices will go down?
you think youll get bored of film soon?
?'
>>
>>4046895
Yeah you got it. Although it’s not necessarily as cut and dry as it is on paper: f4 > f2.8 etc. In the actual photo MF DoF had a more subtle run off into out of focus areas. You’ll see it the more you shoot. Sharpness wise the sweet spot is probably similar to how it would be on a small format lens of the same era (like 5.6 or 8) but diffraction won’t kick in as aggressively until a stop later. Who knows; modern MF systems look so good everywhere, all over the frame I couldn’t even tell you where my lenses are sharpest. But it certainly isn’t at 22.
>>
>>4046904
I will bulk roll at some point but I don't know if I'll do it now or a bit later

I wish I had more money
>>
File: PSX_20220622_215449.jpg (457 KB, 1000x667)
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Equipment MakePlustek
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>>
File: 20220606_151004~2.jpg (1.25 MB, 3492x2004)
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Found a roll of 120 at an estate sale
Expired in '87. I'm so stoked to shoot this

Unrelated question but anybody have experience with the Olympus om 28mm f3.5 and the 35mm f2.8? I got a near mint Om-1 body for next to nothing and I need some glass for it.
I already have a 50 that's on my Om-2

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Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
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ISO Speed Rating414
Exposure ProgramNot Defined
F-Numberf/1.6
Exposure Time1/17 sec
Focal Length4.03 mm
FlashNo Flash, Compulsory
Metering ModeCenter Weighted Average
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Exposure Bias0 EV
Image Height3492
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>>
File: 1655981485992.jpg (674 KB, 726x1360)
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>>4047068
neat film
i found pic related a couple of weeks ago, will be shooting a roll or two over summer
>>
What are some questions I should ask when buying a camera off ebay (not from one of the Japanese sellers)? Looks very clean and is film tested, but description doesn't say much beyond "near mint, cleaned, new light seals, film tested." Or should I just wait to see if one pops up on KEH? (it's an OM-2n)
>>
>>4047119
show the lot page.
>>
>>4046907
It's entirely lens dependent. Tessars are known to be sharp up until f/22 and only show some minor diffraction on an MTF chart. Diffraction is mostly a small format boogeyman (which occasionally includes MF) as it compounds with the unsharpness of the lens itself. We're at a point where the center sharpness of a tessar is still blowing most modern lenses the fuck out, although they are sharper wide open now.

>>4046895
MF will always have more apparent sharpness until you match the film grain size 1:1.
>>
>>4047068
what roll is it?
>>4047119
>"near mint, cleaned, new light seals, film tested."
that description implies the seller knows exactly what hes selling and its condition. if reputation is good id just buy. dont fret it. just have a good eye, ive bought TONS of stuff off ebay, just had beef with one guy years ago, oh and an italian that tried funny stuff.

if anything ask for viewfinder clarity.
>>
File: LOMO.jpg (3.16 MB, 2277x1525)
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was checking my archive and found this weird lomo camera i had. it shot a pano pic plus 2X 1/4 frames in a sequence lol

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>>
>>4047129
Yeah he said sharpest at f22
>>
File: s-l1600.jpg (125 KB, 1600x1067)
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Guys, is it crazy to buy pic rel?
>>
>>4047195
i know nothing about minolta but a white camera looks cool af, you can larp with your friends that it was to be used in space missions.
>>
>>4047195
Looks cool but will age like milk. Or ye olde crt
>>
>>4047199
>will age like milk
this is 30yo camera heh
>>
>bought a Miranda RE II
>Everything works perfectly fine
>except the lightmeter
FUCK
>>
>>4047201
True, true - but is suprisingly white for its age (at least on the photo)
>>
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>>4047195
i and xi series minolta AF cameras are the less liked ones because of the card system bullshit they use, but that one in white looks fucking sweet. it's a top-of-the-line model so it has some neat stuff like 1/8000 shutter and a pretty nice and big viewfinder, but I guess specs dont' matter here as it's more of a collector's thing. the regular black ones go for peanuts.

>>4047198
>it was to be used in space missions.
lol that's spot on. the white minolta 8000i/8700i was a space limited edition

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>>
just got a red light lamp, made for darkroom and all that. do those go bad with age? like they lose filtering power?
>>
File: chairprint.jpg (1.76 MB, 1280x1600)
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does it look like theres a weird color cast on this? it's from ultramax

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File: kodakprint.jpg (1.35 MB, 1600x1262)
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>>4047328
I really suck at getting it completely neutral. dumping a couple more

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File: icecream-1.jpg (1.48 MB, 1600x1274)
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>>4047329
this is from ektar and think is kinda green? so filter less magenta?

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File: umberella2.jpg (1.48 MB, 1600x1278)
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>>4047330
another greenish ektar

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File: PENTACON SIX.jpg (2.66 MB, 2364x2073)
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took the pentacon six out after years of no use. shot with presetted values for another photo, so it was shot wide open and a bit toasted, bloomy, old lens look (meyer 80mm).

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>>
>>4047331
looks like compensation for underexposure or something maybe, you're scanning yourself?
>>
>>4047351
its a scan of a print that looks pretty much like that, then negative is actually pretty overexposed so i kinda burned the print in a bit
>>
>>4047150
I have one that shoots 4 vertical sections over a short period of time. It's a lot of fun actually, the "black panther" somethingorather
>>
File: R1-01400-0000.jpg (2.83 MB, 3596x2392)
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is velvia worth, I must ask myself

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File: R1-01400-0006.jpg (2.95 MB, 3604x2397)
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Camera ModelDigital Link
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File: R1-01400-0015.jpg (2.92 MB, 3482x2316)
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[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
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Camera ModelDigital Link
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>>
>>4047339
>meyer 80mm
expected more from this type of lens
>>
dumping some ultramax i shot in Venice last week, all exposed at +1

1/15
>>
2/15
>>
3/15
>>
4/15

sucks that i didnt notice that pilon was in the way, would have been much better if i just waited one more second.
>>
5/15
>>
File: S299145-R1-E003.jpg (188 KB, 515x768)
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>>4047150
I have one that shoots 4 in a square. It's a borderline-unusable plastic piece of shit with no viewfinder that says "Guinness". I put colored tape over 3 of the lenses because there was no way it could possibly make my photos any worse.
>>
6/15
>>
7/15
>>
8/15

i HATE that i cut the lampost in this one. would have been a banger if i didnt. dont know if i'm being too critical though, i guess it still is a passable picture
>>
9/15
>>
10/15
>>
>>4047429
>>
11/15
>>
12/15
>>
13/15
>>
14/15
>>
15/15
>>
File: 02 horse.jpg (2.67 MB, 3024x2005)
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been shooting some gold 200 recently, first time ive pushed it 2 stops tho, i think the results came out nice

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File: 03 canal.jpg (2.69 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047490

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>>4047491

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Equipment MakeNORITSU KOKI
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File: 12 parade [1].jpg (2.59 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047492

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Equipment MakeNORITSU KOKI
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File: 13 parade [2].jpg (3.04 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047493

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File: 14 parade vert.jpg (2.7 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047494

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File: 18 up hill view.jpg (2.69 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047495

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File: 19 cows.jpg (3.77 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047497

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Equipment MakeNORITSU KOKI
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>>
File: 26 water feature [1].jpg (2.86 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047498

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>>
>>4047388
>>4047391
>>4047392
as a treat, yes, these look great
>>
File: 27 water feature [2].jpg (3.47 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047500

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File: 29 buddha between fronds.jpg (2.82 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047503

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>>
>>4047504

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>>4047507

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>>4047508

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File: 36 madness [1].jpg (3.09 MB, 3024x2005)
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>>4047509

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>>
>>4047507
>>4047508
>>4047504
>>4047503
>>4047500
>>4047495
you really need to think more when taking pictures and look around you. you need to remove anything thats distracting. most of your frames are empty, filled with nothing. why is there a huge orange fence in the picture? what does it add? if its not interesting, dont shoot the pic, get closer and think longer
>>
>>4047310
if it uses a color filter its possible, with red leds no
>>
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>>4046859
Konica recorder
Fuji superia x-tra 400
>>
>>4047497
comfy
>>
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>>
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why are there temperature markings on the back of this camera
>>
expired film looks like shit
>>
>>4046885
you mean the depth of field that you get? yes but only because you'll be standing at a different distance
>>
>>4046885
this question is way too complicated and difficult for this board
>>
>>4046885
this question is too brain
>>
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>>4046885
Yes
>>
>>4047639
The DIN system, officially DIN standard 4512 by the Deutsches Institut für Normung (then known as the Deutscher Normenausschuß (DNA)), was published in January 1934. It grew out of drafts for a standardized method of sensitometry put forward by the Deutscher Normenausschuß für Phototechnik[8] as proposed by the committee for sensitometry of the Deutsche Gesellschaft für photographische Forschung[9] since 1930[10][11] and presented by Robert Luther [de][11][12] (1868–1945) and Emanuel Goldberg[12] (1881–1970) at the influential VIII. International Congress of Photography (German: Internationaler Kongreß für wissenschaftliche und angewandte Photographie) held in Dresden from 3 to 8 August 1931.[8][13]

The DIN system was inspired by Scheiner's system,[1] but the sensitivities were represented as the base 10 logarithm of the sensitivity multiplied by 10, similar to decibels. Thus an increase of 20° (and not 19° as in Scheiner's system) represented a hundredfold increase in sensitivity, and a difference of 3° was much closer to the base 10 logarithm of 2 (0.30103...):[7]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Film_speed
>>
>>4047710
thanks it sounds like shit
>>
>>4047711
Just because you're used to measuring in ISO. 1 din = 1/3 of full stop. This system is much easier to use, but ISO standard is more popular (ex. 800iso=30din; 800iso + 2/3 stop = 32din).
The whole American units of measurements system looks crazy to me, but some people use it anyway.
>>
>>4047417
>>4047418
>>4047419
>>4047421
>>4047422
>>4047424

please do not photodump your garbage snapshots scanned with a potato.
>>
>>4047721
ISO makes more sense because it doubles every stop just like the amount of light. what the fuck is 27 degrees
>>
>>4047639
so the film doesn't expire, if it's hotter than 39 you can't shoot this camera otherwise the film will be spoiled. leica used to sell a hotshoe thermometer but they're pretty rare.
>>
>>4047783
>if it's hotter than 39
Celsius or Fahrenheit?
>>
what are good medium format systems you can get for around 400-500 euros? preferrably no 6x4.5. i'm selling my fuji BL690 because I'm not too fond of rangefinders. I've thinking about a TLR like a rolleicord, you can get a serviced rolleicord Vb (xenar 75/3.5) for 300, which is a good price, but I'm not too fond of where the aperture and shutter speed control is.

I was looking at a GX680 (which unfortunately sold before I could make up my mind, a full kit with 4 lenses for 600) but I do so little studio work that I decided not to buy it anyways.
>>
>>4047785
Kelvin
>>
>>4047791
Pic rel is pretty obvious answer, but you have to do some hunting to get it for less than 600. I bought one for $400, another one for $90 as broken (it really was).
Another obvious option is Bronica ETR/ETRS or Pentax 645. It is possible to buy them for about 400 too.
>>
>>4047783
thanks that's interesting
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>>4047793
i considered these but in the end coming from 6x9 I kind of don't wanna shoot 6x4.5
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>>4047826
Im seconding the mamiya. Don’t knock 645 until you’ve tried it.
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>>4047826
>preferrably NO 6x4.5.
oh. my bad, sorry
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>>4047831
>>4047832
I'll see what 645 camera my friend has to lend out for a few days. He had a GSW645 which I didn't like. Really sharp optics (as most Fujis, they're really underrated in terms of glass), but I can't stand the stupid layout of the camera.

I do like the mamiya 645 because of the layout, similar to a hasselblad. I had a fucking 500 C/M 7 years ago which I sold for 1000 euros. kms
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>>4047843
Just find one on eBay and shoot it for two weeks and if you don’t like it return it.
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>>4047792
at 39 kelvin I won't be able to shoot neither
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>>4047195
Small balls situation. Bought a boring Minolta A7, not a white shiny sexy 8700i Mir limited.
>>4047257
Yeah. Don't like this "cards feature" too
>>
when focusing a rangefinder at infinity should everything outside of the patch exactly line up? or is it only what’s inside the patch that matters. like when i move the patch across a tall, skinny building i notice it doesn’t line up with what’s outside of the patch, but the building is lined up inside of it. if that makes sense….
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>>4047954
it's hurting my head trying to imagine and understand this
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>>4047963
Like a verticle line going through the patch, the stuff inside matches up, but on the outside edge of the patch into the rest on the viewfinder it doesn’t?
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>>4047965
i suppose if the part of the line outside is a different distance away?
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>>4047975
Ah i gotcha like not square with what i’m aiming at? I mean i notice this at all distances desu. Maybe i’m tripping.
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>>4047979
all the lines in this picture are the same length. you can see why it wouldnt match if you move up or down the building. but with infinity it shouldn't matter so you might need to calibrate that.

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Has anybody used this monstrosity? Is it just a meme or would it be worth picking up? I've got a couple of ai-s lenses that it'd work with.
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Any fujibros have nice settings for very sunny days?
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>>4047731
>t. nophoto
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I just ordered some rolls of Kentmere 100 and 400 but i haven't shot film in a long time so i don't remember much about this film stock. Are these the same as Ilford Pan or some other film?

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Tpи тaнкиcтa, тpи вeceлых дpyгa
Экипaж мaшины бoeвoй!!!
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>>4047954
i fucking hate rangefinders so damn much
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>>4048159
as far as I know, ilford pan and kentmere are different films. I remember some anon comparing the datasheets of both and saying that they don't match. anyway, local distributor sells both around here and they're different prices for same speed, with the ilford pan (black box with magenta or yellow letters) being cheaper than kentmere.
>>
Has anybody here encountered Objecta film stock? I know it was distributed by Agfa - at least in my country. I suppose it was just their cheap color film repackaged for EE and (maybe) other shitholes.
I got two rolls from '99, apparently fridge stored the whole time. Rated test roll at 64, will post results soon-ish.
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>>4046859
Got a bunch of questions hoping you guys can shed light on.

1. My Zorki is scratching film. I have now identified that it is scratching on the cassette side before even (but maybe partially) fully crossing the pressure plate.
Does anyone have any ideas what might be causing this? I reseated the pressure plate and it seems to have sufficient play, and I cleaned the film transport and even polished the film track ahead and behind the frame window.
Does this mean the body is bent (seems this way but I cant tell by eye) or some other issue exists with the pressure plate?
Scratches are hairline and in the same place every time. They show up in most images and are visible on the negative to the naked eye. Sometimes very thin film passes through unscathed, but thick film like fomapan gets gouged.

2. I got a bulk film loader which came with a near full 100ft of some unknown color film (has a dark backside and orange colored emulsion side so assuming it's color.
The boomer I bought it from exposed it to light in order to take pictures (cringe). Is there any hope that any of it is unspoiled?

3. That aforementioned film is very dark on the base side, I have never handled ECN2 film but perhaps this is remjet?
I wonder if I developed this film in B/W chemistry just to see edge codes and how light spoiled it is, would this (if remjet) be an issue?

I'm using this film as test material to test the scratching and film transports, but if this sounds like interesting film, I'll put it to different use.
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Anyone got an idea much could a brand new Canon EOS 1V go for?
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My pops is in Berlin
Do any of you faggots know where could he buy 35mm for me?
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>>4048455

Which version of the Zorki? Are you using one of the original Soviet cassettes?

Unlikely that it is bent they are built like a brick shithouse I have it's cousin the Mir.

Right off the top, I would give the PP a good polish or at least check it. Zorki is a good camera probably one of the best the Soviets built.

Soviet film had a very thin base I've dealt with this on my Leningrad it doesn't scratch but the spring has a harder time pulling the film across so I only get 8 images from a full wind.
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>>4047257

I had a 9xi in college and loved it. Very underrated and still to this day the best fitting camera in my hands ever.

>>4047639

DIN system

>>4047791

RB67
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>>4048559
Meister Camera E.K.
Fasanenstraße 71 Berlin

You're welcome, fellow fag
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>>4048567
Piefke?
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>>4048562
>which version, cassette
Zorki-1. Using modern film cassettes. Happens with factory film and my own self loaded.

>thin soviet film
yeah I've noticed that Svema film is a totally different base material (stronger and thinner) kind of like the Eastman B/W reproduction film I once used.

>bent and pressure plate
Squinting and straining I think I can see a bend in between the cassette spool and the film plane. Is there some reason maybe that the pressure plate would be pushing too hard or too far?
If I polish the pressure plate, wont that take off the dark paint (don't have any way to easily replace)?
What tool would you recommend? I used a watch buffing tool for the film transport.

Forgot to mention this but it is the primary reason I think there must be some bend or other issue,
the Scratches are on the Curtain (shutter) side of the film, not on the base (Where presumably the pressure plate would be scuffing it).
The scratches show up white on the negative which to my understanding means they are on the (front) emulsion side.

I also had issues with the retaining spool for the cassette dragging and causing all manner of issues (double exposures, sprocket tears etc) but I lubed that with some Launa #40 oil using a toothpick and it now turns freely.

>Zorki is a good camera probably one of the best the Soviets built.
I really like it and it's one of the reasons that I am fairly desperate to get these issues sorted.
Unfortunately this Camera was fully CLA'd by Oleg Khalyavin but evidently he missed some things, and now he's bailed from his business since the start of ukr/rus hostilities.

I know a repairman locally but I'd rather not pay 150+ burgerbucks for work that I could do myself and that I theoretically ought to have a avoided.

Do you have the Maizenberg Soviet camera manual? It's out of print and DMCA'd everywhere but I have a pdf that I got from an old timer. It's very helpful and I'd be happy to share if you don't already have it.
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>>4048625
gib manual friend
i have a zorki 4k for pick up in the post office
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>>4048631
Poast email or something. It wont compress small enough to post here.
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>>4048625

Zorki-1, basically a FED clone, which is a Leica clone, if I remember that one is a bottom-loader. Oh boy. I have a wartime NKVD FED which is fairly similar.

Your scratches are on the emulsion side, you have an issue somewhere in the film transport mechanism, the pressure plate is fine. If they are visible, load a roll and advance the film a couple times, then set the camera to bulb (Z on Soviet cameras) and hold it open and take the lens off. If you see scratches, then you have something going on between the shutter curtain and the film spool. Doing that will eliminate half of the camera.
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>>4048637
Did this, Scratches apparent on emulsion side on first advance through the shutter (i.e. the scratches are happening somewhere between exit of cassette and becoming visible when shutter is held open). As in, scratches are happening before exiting the transport on the right side (towards the takeup spool).
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>>4048633
jusr catbox it or something
https://catbox.moe/
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>>4048609
Nein
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>>4048637
now pretty convinced the body is bent slightly and the clearance on the cassette side of the body is too little because of the bend.
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>>4048657
Your lucky day anon.
https://files.catbox.moe/9ud1kx.pdf
^main pdf maizenburg bible
https://files.catbox.moe/rqcwms.pdf
^some dude's cla guide
https://files.catbox.moe/tz8p7k.pdf
^pretty good amateur zorki 4k repair manual
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>>4048667

Sweet thanks, maybe this will help me with my Mir repair
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>>4048688
No problem at all. Trying to think if I saved something else that may be helpful.
>>
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>>4048667
much obliged
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File: TestShot3SantaRae1000.jpg (2.28 MB, 2518x1071)
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Tested some Santa Rae 1000 film that I had left out. The setup was abysmal, and so was the development but I do like how grainy it came out. Here's the 1:2.35 crop of my first ever self portrait on film.

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