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Is it worth it to get the 8200AI over the 8200SE?
The main advantage is the IT8 target which allows for proper colour calibration but I don't know how much actual difference this will make that can't be solved with colour correction in LR in post. I adjust the colours of pretty much all my photographs anyway to get them quite right.
DSLR scanning
File: Fujifilm-GFX-100S-Front.jpg (197 KB, 1180x787)
197 KB
197 KB JPG
Just buy a GFX100s and take pictures of them and then wah lah. You got 100MP film bro

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeCanon
Camera ModelCanon EOS 80D
Maximum Lens Aperturef/2.8
Image-Specific Properties:
Exposure Time1/200 sec
ISO Speed Rating100
Lens Aperturef/11.0
Exposure Bias0 EV
Metering ModePattern
FlashNo Flash
Focal Length100.00 mm
Exposure ModeManual
White BalanceManual
extreme baby brain takes when OP is talking about a Plustek.
not interested in DSLR scanning because I don't plan on shooting digital, just seems like a bit of a waste. DSLR scanning is only really a good option for people who already have digital cameras.
The only digital camera I would get would be for shooting video and the minimum for something like that is a £700+ Lumix camera.
100MP on 35mm film is completely pointless
I just bought an Epson ET-2800
scanning is 1200dpi

i think its actually one of the better scanners you can get on an all-in-one printer

but how does it stack up to a dedicated thing like OP's pic
You know nothing about enlargement. High megapixel counts are necessary for emulating the lossless scaling abilities of film
Hey OP, some things I've learned from having a plustek scanner for a couple months now and scanning a fuckload of 126 film (square 35mm) and 35mm:

Plustek hasn't updated their hardware in a while. I have an older 7600i and it's functionally identical to the 8200i, it just has an older version of the Silverfast software packed in. I was able to pay a reduced upgrade cost to get to version 8 from version 6 or something like that.

The IT8 target is useful for calibrating once and then maybe again if you leave it off for a long time. It's not super critical if you're scanning raw files, but helps get your colors right if you use the built in film profiles to generate 24bit jpegs (which is a pretty common use case for most people, but I like to have the 64-bit raws instead).

Scanning is fucking slow, especially if you use both the multi-exposure (HDR) and infrared (ICE) features. The "HDR" feature is great but the ICE might not be worth it if your film is clean (mine is definitely not, being from the 50s to 90s). If I wasn't doing this for my family, I wouldn't be scanning every frame of every roll they gave me with both options turned on, but here I am sitting on my ass for 10 minutes per frame.
You know nothing about viewing distance
They're good IQ-wise, but painfully slow.

I ended up selling mine and getting a Frontier (got an amazing deal). Now I get a whole uncut roll scanned at maximum resolution (5350x3602) in a few minutes. My time is so worth it.
Wish I could do that but all the negs I have to scan have been cut. Makes me wanna cry.
Save a few bucks and get a Coolscan V or 5000 ED that will give quality scans that would make DSLRfags seethe.
Enjoy warped pictures, improper color rendering and lens distortion.
Not all prints from 35mm film are intended for being viewed from 10ft away, I've seen low-MP prints blown up big on the ads at bus stops and they look jaggy and dated
>how does it stack up to a dedicated thing like OP's pic
You can't scan film with yours

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