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File: ISO.png (294 KB, 887x453)
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please help me understand ISO a little better

>get my first intro cam in 2016
>start shooting on Auto-mode but gradually move to Aperture mode to learn
>in Aperture/Manual mode, lowest ISO is 100 for pics but i use 200 as I never heard of 100 before (not sure what it is)
>i.e. lowest ISO for Video mode is 200, and I shot video a lot. in my mind thinking "100 ISO for pics=bad"
>get an upgrade recently to Canon EOS R
>lowest ISO in M mode is L (it goes 200 > 100 > L)

3 Questions:

1) is 100 better than 200?
2) why does my intro cam only has 200 for Video n 100 missing?
2) what is L ISO and why is it missing on my cam from 2016?

I know EOS R is shit for video (my intro cam from 2016 is better for that, lols), but i wanna focus on pics with it.
>>
>>3939589
you've had a camera for 5 years and this is the shit you wanna ask? >>/sqt/
>>
>>3939590
not a pro n didnt shoot regularly. took me 1 year to go from Auto to Aperture, then another 1 to shoot Manual to fully understand wtf im doing. also, took long breaks so wasnt constantly learning, and studying Photoshop, Premier, etc.. took a shitload of my time.
>>
Anyone who spoonfeeds this lazy idiot information deserves a boot.

Read your goddamned manual.
>>
>but i use 200 as I never heard of 100 before (not sure what it is)
>in my mind thinking "100 ISO for pics=bad"
has to be bait, why would you take the time to type out such retarded shit when you could just lookup or watch a video on ISO in 2 seconds.
>>
>in Aperture/Manual mode, lowest ISO is 100 for pics but i use 200 as I never heard of 100 before (not sure what it is)

Fucking what? You do realize ISO is a unit of measurement?

Was it easier to make a 4chan thread and grab a picture than to do a 2 second google search?
>>
>is 100 better than 200?
yes and no. higher iso means more noise (makes your photos grainier), so generally you want to be shooting on the lowest iso possible. but if you can't afford to gain a stop of light by sacrificing a narrow aperture or fast shutter speed, it's better to just raise the iso and accept the noise than wind up with unintentional motion blur or missed focus. locking your camera on the lowest possible iso is a bad habit, you're better off considering it another adjustable resource like the rest of the exposure triangle.

higher iso also slightly improves dynamic range in your highlights, but that's such a fringe case that i never consider it.

>what is L ISO and why is it missing on my cam from 2016
some cameras can simulate a lower-than-native iso by internally adjusting the exposure in post. for example, if L ISO equates to 50, it shoots at 100 and then internally adjusts the jpeg to look like it was shot down a stop of light. i'm pretty sure it only matters if you're using jpegs straight out of the camera.
>>
>>3939600
dont fall for the bait dude
>>
>>3939600
>spoonfeeding this literal baiting retard
you're worse than he is
>>
>>3939601
>>3939604
you can just shift click the thread
>>
>>3939589
>Auto-ISO: ON
Done, don't even worry about it
>>
>>3939589
>EOS R is shit for video
what a spoiled little zoomer retard, kindly kill yourself
>>
>>3939600
thanks, anon. not bait btw. i am just slow at learning as i took pics every few months whenever a model was available. doing regular pics, my brain shuts off. portraits only. i still dunno a lot about photography, as it takes so much energy to learn evrything, and im not part of any community as that helps tremendously. took 1 class total so far.
>>
>>3939608
>in my mind thinking "100 ISO for pics=bad"
this is the person you're wasting your time insulting
>>
>>3939607
ya, but i need to take portrait pics with little to no noise outside. im not that new..
>>
>>3939608
u mad?
>>
>>3939611
>outside
then it will auto to base ISO, done, here's a protip:
>lighting is more important than camera or settings
>>
>>3939610
>this is the person you're wasting your time insulting
or trying to impress
>>
>>3939614
um... when u do that, it takes me more time in post processing RAW pics
>if all pics has same ISO. A +SS (lets say a set of 10), simply fix 1 then copy paste the same settings for the rest of 9
if i do it your way, ill waste so much time going through each pic adjustings the settings, ill wanna kms after

learned this while shooting in Aperture mode with Auto ISO. i prefer to do everything manual, as it saves me lots of time in post..
>>
>>3939614
how can i take the pictur without camera though. camera is number one sorry if i dont understand i am slow and learn is hard
>>
>>3939618
>what are eyes and memory
sorry pal, defo ngmi-o
>>
>>3939617
oh you don't use intelligent scripts? sorry pal, see above
>defo ngmi-o
>>
>>3939620
ahh thanks anon. not bait btw just slow
>>
>>3939621
>>3939622
ya u mos def mad. and a canon fanboy on top of that. literally kys.
>>
>>3939630
ya fosho btw guys is 50 better than 100 ? i think i use 200 for video so 100 is bad and 50 is worser?
>>
>>3939632
base is bess bruh

>>3939630
>canon
dafug r u jabin about mofo?
>>
So, light-metering...
What should I use?
Center, Spot, or "Matrix"

I need to know bros, help a nigga out.
>>
>>3939648
fuck you you're not OP
>>
>>3939648
choose spot metering and meter for the sun you'll get a perfect exposure every time.
>>
>>3939648
well do you want to meter the light according to the center of your shot, a spot in your shot, or a matrix average of your shot?
>>
>>3939648
>>3939651
this
>>
>>3939648
Just look at your evf and adjust the exposure that's closest to the final image you want anon.

And don't use the n word, it's super cringe.
>>
>>3939649
lol
>>
No-one answer this dumb lazy faggot.
OP is clearly a nigger.
>>
The triggering of /p/
Well done OP
>>
>>3939589
The lower the iso, the better the noise performance and larger the dynamic range.

For every stop you do down in iso up to base (iso 100 on the R), you double the signal to noise ratio and can pick up details in shadows twice as dark.
>>
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>>3939789
>>
>>3939792
Nohome iPhone 6 anon is upset again. Go on, ruin another thread.
>>
>>3939589
>please help me understand ISO a little better
Okay, basics of exposure: there are three exposure variables which control how bright/dark your photos are: Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.

They all have some side effects. If you want to maintain the same exposure but you want to change one of them, one of the others has to change to compensate. Usually exposure values are talked about in terms of "stops" which represents a doubling/halving of the light getting to the sensor regardless of which exposure value you're changing. E.g., go up one stop of aperture, have to go down one stop of shutter speed or ISO. When you're in any of the auto modes, your camera handles this for you.

Shutter speed: How long the shutter is open. Easy. Keep it open twice as long, twice as much light hits the sensor. Keep it open half as long, half as much light hits the sensor. The side effect for this is motion blur--if you keep the sensor open too long, you'll get a blurry shot because things in the frame (or your dumb monkey hands) will have moved during the exposure.

Aperture: How large the opening in your lens is. The numbers for this to go from one stop to the next are a little weird because of math and circles and shit, but in short: f/1, f/1.4, f/2, f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6, f/8, f/11, f/16, f/22. Smaller numbers let in more light, with the tradeoff being that less will be in focus. How wide the aperture can get (i.e., how low the f/number and how much light it can let in) depends on the lens, with wider apertures generally being more expensive. You can remember that sequence by remembering f/1 and f/1.4 and alternately doubling them (or just understand that each is a factor of square-root-of-two from each other, which is roughly 1.4)

Next reply will explain ISO; I'll go into a bit more depth because that's the one you're specifically asking about.
>>
>>3939799
(ctd)

Okay, ISO. At a basic level, this is a number that represents how light-sensitive the sensor is. So, ISO 200 will be twice as sensitive to light as ISO 100, and ISO 400 will be twice as sensitive as ISO 200, etc. It's called ISO in reference to the International Organization for Standardization (and yeah, the initials don't line up in the right order, and that's deliberate--since they're international, they don't want it to seem like they're favoring English over other languages). The ISO value doesn't have any units, it's just a number that represents a given light-sensitivity according to the ISO standard that defines it. It's a bit circular and arbitrary, but it works.

The tradeoff for ISO is noise (like, digital fuzz in the image that makes it look grainy and cuts out some of your detail) and dynamic range (i.e., the brightest highlights you can still see detail in vs. the darkest shadows you can still see detail in). Higher numbers = More sensitive to light, but you get more noise and less dynamic range. So in general, if you want the best image quality, you want to use lower ISO values.

The ISO range available will be dependent on the camera. One of the reasons for this is that there are other factors that affect noise and dynamic range, like the size/resolution of the sensor. So for small sensor cameras like phones and compact digitals, you'll often see very low minimum ISO values like 50 or 25, but larger-sensor cameras like pro DSLRs or mirrorless cameras might have a minimum of 200, but 200 on a big-sensor camera will give you less noise and more dynamic range than 25 on a shitty cellphone.

You will also sometimes see ISOs like "L" or "H" (or H1, H2, etc). That's basically the camera shooting at the next nearest real ISO that it has hardware support for and then digitally lowering the exposure. So for "L", it's actually shooting at ISO 100 but lowering the brightness on the image so that it looks like ISO 50.
>>
>>3939802
(ctd more)
You generally want to avoid the L/H ISO modes because they take a much bigger whack out of your dynamic range. You can easily recreate the effect in your editing software afterwards.

As a general rule, you want to use the lowest ISO value that lets you use a fast enough shutter speed so you don't get motion blur and a narrow enough aperture that lets you have everything you want in focus in focus. Usually you have to compromise on one of those unless you're outside on a bright sunny day.
>>
File: Chad vs 2 negras.jpg (64 KB, 640x433)
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>>3939799
>>3939802
>>3939805
thanks, anon.

>>3939773
this nigga mad lmao. coming in here telling everyone not to answer me. i can only imagine the type of friends u make outside of 4chan, if any. literally neck yourself.
>>
>>3939589
ISO is just sensitivity to light.
Picture shot at double ISO will be twice as bright, given all other variables are the same. You can use it to manipulate exposure.
Did you notice already that you can adjust the shutter speed and lens aperture size?
>>
>>3939942
im not that new, anon. i just thought ISO 100 and and ISO L was some special modes cuz my old cam didnt have them. have a photoshoot in a few. will use 100 when i can outside.
>>
>>3939594
tpbp
>>
>>3939614
Not op but my eos r on auto iso often sets it weirdly high. Like things will be almost over exposed
>>
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>>3939941
>nigger triggered
I can only imagine the type of nigger friends you make outside of 4chan, nigger.
>>
>>3939589
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tos-RK7zgBU just watch this (and other ISO related videos) from Steve Perry, If you don't understand him, you'd better drop the whole thing
>>
just remember ISO = Gain = Grain

Lower the ISO the lower the grain but some cameras have a sweet spot where the best HDR and colors or something. Just look up native ISO for canon R
>>
holy fucking retard
>>
>>3939589
Just practice your camera, bruh~
A good photographer knows his camera well.

Auto Focus are for morons and retards.

A pro gave me le tip. If you're outdoor (broad daylight), go for ISO 100 and a smaller aperture(f/8 to f/10). If there is action, consider making your shutter speed fast. If retardation or seizures (just fast action) occur, go for the Sports Mode IYKWIM.

If you're indoor, go for ISO 1000 with a greater than f/10 aperture.

>>3940183
Might cop into this. Thanks, anon.

>>3939792
>>3939599
>>3939598
Nailed it! Haha!
>>
>>3939799
ISO is not exposure.
>>
>>3941607
I didn't say it was? But to understand what ISO is, you need to have a basic understanding of exposure.
>>
>>3940483
>If you're outdoor (broad daylight), go for ISO 100
no. that should be
>go for base ISO
Base ISO isn't necessarily 100. Could also be something like 160 or 200, depending on your camera. If you get into the lower values the camera is going to take the photo at base ISO and darken it in post processing. So if your base ISO is 200, and you select 100, the resulting image is just artificially darkened by one stop.
I mean, it's not like image quality is radically worse then, but in a very high contrast scene you might lose some detail. After all, you're reducing your dynamic range by one stop.
>>
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>>3941683
>there are three exposure variables which control how bright/dark your photos are: Shutter speed, aperture, and ISO.
you literally said "three exposure values"
which is wrong on more than one level. there is only one exposure value (EV), and it's calculated based on shutter speed and aperture alone. so ISO is neither an exposure value, nor does it have anything to do with calculating the EV.
>>
>>3941764
>there is only one exposure value (EV), and it's calculated based on shutter speed and aperture alone. so ISO is neither an exposure value, nor does it have anything to do with calculating the EV.
Maybe you confuse EV with LV.
EV is LV adjusted for ISO (they coincide at ISO100).

Your equation is correct but pretty much never used on its own in photographic settings.
When talking about EV in photography, it's about the exposure value for a *correct* exposure. Which means the exposure value matching the luminance of the scene (as metered) times ISO, divided by some constant.


Then the equation becomes:
EV= log_2 (luminance*ISO)/12.5
>>
>>3941764
>you literally said "three exposure values"
I literally didn't. I said "three exposure VARIABLES".





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