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File: 250d_0015.jpg (4.13 MB, 3000x2000)
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>Film Community Links:
35mmc.com
Casualphotophile.com
Emulsive.org
istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
industrieplus.net/dxdatabase
>>
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what color filmstock for handheld lowlight photography that's not cinestill 800t?

are portra 800 and lomo 800 my only choices nowadays?
>>
hey i ordered the lomography fantome kino stock with iso 8. problem is that the lowest setting my minolta x-700 got is iso 25 and i wanted to ask if i can still use the internal meter if i just use exposure compensation and set it to +1.5?
>>
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Gotta love family vacations.
>>
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This is Brisbane on Ektar. Dont think its really anything special but I thought Id share
>>
>>3935632
800t isn't even an 800 speed film, it's 500 speed film.

yes, they are. or you can push normal color film.
>>
>>3935636
you'd really want to set it to +1 2/3 stops, but yes.
>>
>>3935679
That's right.
>>
>>3935678
Very nice, how long was the exposure?
>>
trying color film for the first time tomorrow. so far it's all been black and white.
nothing fancy, just kodak gold. anything I should keep in mind when it comes to exposure?
>>
>>3935773
make sure to nail it as close as you can. consumer grade film isn't very forgiving of under/over exposure compared to b&w or pro film.
>>
>pic not mine

What's the best reasonably-priced 35mm film camera/medium format camera to get?

I really like taking portraiture. Digital just isn't hitting it for me.
>>
>>3935776
Anything mechanical if you want it to last.

I'd personally recommend the Canon FTb QL, it isn't hipster taxed, and it's probably the best FD camera to buy nowadays.
>>
>>3935781
... and it's probably getting hipster taxed as soon as all those ancient electronics from the A series start dying, which might be in a few years for all we know...
>>
>>3935776
Konica Autoreflex TC
>>
>>3935776
At least give us a budget to work with reasonable means different things. Oh and don’t let anyone try to steer you towards a camera from the 70s because they have fewer electronics like
>>3935781
It’s a cope as old as time
>>
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>>3935632
pushed bw or just shoot digital. it no longer makes sense to shoot lowlight handheld color film photos since every stock except those two were killed. digital absolutely destroys film for shooting at night.

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>>
>>3935820
Seconded. 400 speed films looks best at 200
>>
>>3935820
I guess that's right.

One can dream...
>>
>>3935679
Its 500 in ECN2 but C41 is a little more active so youre always getting a slight push. Its less noticeable because cine stocks are less contrasty so theyre easier in post and the contrast is corrected for the release print. This is also why 800t looks grainier than portra 800, while 5219 has less grain than portra 400 does when done at 500 in ecn2, its just a little pushed with cinestill.
>>
>>3935820
800 and at least f2 with a shorter than 50mm lens is enough for night shoots in a city, if you can see where youre going, youre gonna get something with that combo.

When I still shot digi, I feel like every shot I took with my a7rii had that taken on a phone vibe so I just bought a good fast lens and shoot portra 800.

Altough the best is shooting slow film at night with a tripod, because of reciprocity failure you can take some pretty extreme long exposures.
>>
>>3935632
I like Cinestill 800T over Portra 800, but Portra isn't bad. Two rolls I did of Natura 1600 were fun, but that's too expensive to be viable imo and soon all gone.
>>
>>3935844
If you dont like the halation of 800T by the way, its pretty easy to counteract in post. Just go into the red channel in ps and do some linear burn on the red highlights, the other layers will have detail thatll show through.
>>
>>3935840
Read my comment again, I just said it wasn't worth it. There are two options for 800 speed color film, one costs $14/roll and the other $13/roll.

> I feel like every shot I took with my a7rii had that taken on a phone vibe

Get better at editing? I dunno, seems like a personal fault and not a fault of shooting digital.
>>
>>3935840
Yeah it’s good enough but Porta 800 doesn’t look great at box speed imho.
>>
>>3935850
You need to shoot with a pretty heavy handed promist or black mist to get highlights to glow like they do on film. Shoot a few neons with your digi and then film and youll get what I mean.

But liking halation (general halation present in all film, not red layer halation like cinestill) is purely a personal preference, some people like the clarity at 100% look too, especially younger people.
>>
>>3935781
>>3935783
I never got this "OMG electronics so unreliable" meme. Desoldering and replacing some shitty old caps or bridging some cracked flex with a massive pitch (because it was build 4 decades ago) is trivial compared to remanufacturing worn or damaged/missing clockwork elements. And you can replace old components with modern ones that are smaller (to make room for bodges if needed) and more reliable, and are available off the shelf. Plus you never have to worry about adjusting shutter speed, because it's either exactly correct or the shutter doesn't fire.

I can only assume it's some old faggots who thinks electrons are ooh scary scary because they're too thick to learn new things.
>>
>>3935849
You could also shoot vision3 500t
>>
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some recent film shots

1/?

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>>3935883
2/?

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>>3935884
3/?

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>>3935885

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>>
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>>3935887
5/?

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>>
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>>3935888
6/?

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>>
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>>3935890
7/?

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>>
>>3935862
It’s because it’s a meme, there’s nothing to get.
>>
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I just had a few rolls developed. Feedback is welcome.

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>>
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>>
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>>
>>3935858
But OP didn’t say anything about halation.
>>
>>3935737
Thanks, it was maybe 30 seconds
>>
>>3935891
so good anon
>>
>>3935678

Very nice I would have gone a little less exposure on the road part to capture the light trails from cars.

>>3935776

Nikkormat FT

>No hipster tax
>Full mechanical
>Glorious F mount optics
>Metered if you get the FTN model
>Will survive a bomb blast

I have one from my college days and it just won't die, it has outlived everything I have shot on since then.

>>3935885
>>3935887
>>3935888
>>3935890
>>3935891

A CUTE <3
>>
>>3935941
You went to truck driving college?
>>
>>3935949

I went to regular college and decided it wasn't for me.

Now I make more than my professors who told me I would be replaced in 5 years by a robot kek. I do kind of miss the academia life though, I told myself if I ever hit it big or retired early I'd go back to college and finish my degree.
>>
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Canon F-1 New | 70-210mm 4 | Cinestill 800T | Pushed 3 Stops

Took this in Bushwick during Hurricane Ida
>>
>>3935950
>>3935206
>>
>>3935955

>Those colors
>Dat reflection
>Another soi-wagon crossover off the streets

10/10
>>
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>>
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>>3935955
>the cars on fire, and theres no driver at the wheel

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>>
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This is cinestill 500t with a hollywood black magic filter. For maximum halation.
>>
>>3935983
Bro you really bought a schneider filter that’s ballin
>>
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Lots of nice shots in this thread.
>>
>>3935940
>>3935941
Thank you! (:
>>
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>>3935941
thanks sugar

>>3935985
I love it
>>
>>3936000
Looks great, still sticking to my pmb tho.
>>
>>3935983
Looks a lot like my combo of 800t and NiSi Black Mist
>>
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>>3936044
this is 250D with a chinese pro-mist 1/8
>>
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>>3936059
>>
>>3936063
Cozy
>>
>>3936064
thank you!

I exposed it at 500 ISO for maximum cozy, and went a bit overboard with development because my chems were probably weaker than usual.
>>
>>3936000
checked and love this anon. those headlights are my favorite subie lights.
>>
>>3936090
My friend bought the one with the round highlights. I roasted him so much he stopped talking to me.
>>
How do I figure out the correct exposure time for night shots?
>>
>>3936111
lightmeter app on your phone or a 500usd lightmeter
>>
>>3936111
Depends on the stock. You need to look up reciprocity failure correction factor for the specific stock youre using.
>>
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>>3935623
Why has my ECN-2 developer exhausted/gone bad after ~3 weeks and only 3 developments (plus a few random test strips of 1-3 frames)?

Film is coming out of it very faint and badly color shifted upon scanning. It also has this strange haloing effect around high-contrast edges. The crosshatch effect in the sky is actually the light table. I've had to stretch the scan so much it's picking up what is normally a completely smooth surface.

This is 250D exposed at 200 and developed for 3 minutes like normal.

I mixed it up about three weeks ago and I don't think I've contaminated it with anything. I suppose there will be some remjet swimming around in it but my previous batch didn't go bad until about 2 months and ~10-12 devs. The powder you get from QWD makes 1 liter which I half and make 500ml out of. I don't see why this would be an issue, other than it exhausting in half the time it would at 1L.

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>>
>>3935989
Nice one
>>
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Anon, is there any benefit in scanning film with a digital fool-frame, especially when (some) MFT bodies have high-res shot option, which allows to make 40MP shots?

Pic related is made using high-res shot option and 1:1 system macro lens.

I can get 1:2 vintage macro lens and 25mm extension ring to make it 1:1 for about $100 and attach it to a 24MP fool-frame; question is - will it perform better?

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>>
>>3936157
How does it achieve the highres?
>>
Ultramax has such nice color, such a shame theres no 120 or low grain ultra color stocks left. Its a little grainy for my liking.
>>
>>3936157
It's unlikely to make much or any difference. At base ISO (which is what you'll be scanning at) the signal to noise ratio would be way under the grain of whatever you're scanning.

All but the slowest, finest-grain 35mm films will have less detail on them than even a modest 16-20mp m43 camera and decent lens can capture.

Can't really appreciate how the high-res mode works for that scan seeing as it's been scaled back down to 3MP. I imagine you'd get to diminishing returns pretty quickly though, unless you've got slide film or Kodak 50D or something unusually detailed.
>>
>>3936166
Please dont give advice if its gonna cripple someones workflow. 24 mp is the absolute minimum to get properly snappy scans. Even more for bw. You will get a scan out with 16mp but its going to be muddy and the grain hasnt been resolved.
>>
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>>3936161
It is said that the sensor moves by subpixel in each direction, while electronic shutter creates a shot. After 8 subsequent shots the images are stacked and processed. AFAIK newer bodies can do this without tripod.

>>3936166
Here's the 100% crop. I'm also concerned about diffraction, which will let me close aperture more on fool-frame, thus getting more details (or is it?)
>>
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>>3936165

try lomo 400 in 120

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>>
>>3936168
>the absolute minimum to get properly snappy scans
Could you show examples of <24mp scans not capturing all (or at least practically all) of the detail from a 35mm frame? I know there will be exceptions like T-Max 100 apparently having 200 lines/mm of resolution which is definitely more than 24mp but any 'normal' 35mm film surely does not have any perceptible and useful detail past 24mp.
>>
>>3936157
this does not look good anon
>>
File: 5II50093.jpg (4.66 MB, 9185x6140)
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>>3936178
What exactly is bad?

Here's one scan which was not resized.

I like the grain one can clearly see on this picture. It is to be gone on 24MP, even if it's fool-frame, right?

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>>
>>3936166
>All but the slowest, finest-grain 35mm films will have less detail on them than even a modest 16-20mp m43 camera and decent lens can capture.
And due to nyquist, you want double that sampling rate to avoid aliasing. Grain aliasing is a thing, and it's a pain to filter out because grains are not nice and uniform and aligned: http://www.photoscientia.co.uk/Grain.htm
>>
>>3936182
Oh, my bad. This was shot with some zoom and a macro-extension ring. Don't mind the fringe.
>>
>Ricoh TLS Singlex in good visual condition for $30 shipped
How'd I do?
>>
>>3936183
Also: >1:1 macro (i.e. well into micro territory) and stitching with Hugin or similar is always an option.
>>
>>3936188
This is a pain for 35mm film I suppose. I can "scan" a 36 roll, cutting it into stripes of six frames and putting them to a file sleeve in less than 45 min. Since now i have anti-static brush this might take an hour or so. I'll spend much more time scanning each frame by parts.
>>
>>3936176
You dont need resolution in scans for detail, you need it for edge sharpness. Taking a 24mp scan if say 4x5 vs getting a full res scan and resizing it have a different feel to them because youre not getting the edges of the film.
>>
>>3936182
You're confusing image size with resolution
>>
File: Film-Fix-Orange-Teal.png (18 KB, 1000x563)
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Thoughts on this film subscription from Roberts Camera?
>>
File: IMG_8370-Pano.jpg (1.89 MB, 1584x1980)
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>>
>>3936106
good on you! those are called bugeye, i've never really cared for them but they were made a lot longer than the one in your shot, those being blob-eye or peanut-eye. those were only like 2 years of production.
>>
Is there a camera akin to the Canon A-1 that's cheaper and better?
>>
>>3936342
T90, any EOS if you want electronics. I have a 650 and it's neat.

Best FD bodies are the EF or FTb.
>>
>>3936347
apparently we had a Canon EOS-1 stashed somewhere in the basement. lucky i have two EF lenses too. will see if it's functional.
>>
>>3936342
Pentax ME
>>
>>3936260
Dude what the hell is up with the film they have on this website?
https://robertscamera.com/revolog-kosmos-200-iso-36-exp
This is the most ridiculous crap sold at a premium i've ever seen.
>>
>>3936347

Seconded the T90 it's all of the stuff that makes the early EOS great in an FD mount. Luigi Coliani designed it. If you look for one, make sure the shutter blades don't have oil and make sure the top LCD works.

You will lose the eyepiece eventually and they are impossible to find, the one for I believe the 5D will fit.

650 is a good cam too for EOS and you can buy them for nothing.

>>3936376

lucky you! Those are quite nice.
>>
>>3935680
should i just do +2 then instead? theres no option for inbetween on the minolta
>>
>>3936446
If its nega film, absolutely.
>>
>>3936448
aight, ty
>>
>>3936422
kek imagine paying $17 for a shitty preflashed roll of color film. what a travesty.
>>
If I'm buying used, untested film cameras with the hope of getting a functioning one at the end of the journey, should I expect to buy at least two cameras?
>>
File: Provia100F 007.jpg (1.86 MB, 1600x1600)
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scanned some 120 for the first time in a long time. provia 100f

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>>
>>3936606
depends what kind. point and shoot from a goodwill or garage sale? probably works. SLR with "untested" on ebay? big gamble.
>>
>>3936647
eBay is the safest gamble out of any way you can purchase a used camera in 2021 tho.
>>
File: 030.jpg (2.66 MB, 2001x1327)
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>>3936610
Nice exposure but I just do no get the Provia look
>>
>>3936610
What did you meter for here?

>>3936660
Good stuff.
>>
>>3936660
thanks, and ya that's fair. it's not for everyone.

>>3936755
incident reading in the sun.
>>
>>3936606
Mostly it's fine. You might need to replace the light seals though.

>>3936647
>SLR with "untested" on ebay? big gamble.
If the sellers specifies untested you can be sure it's tested and not working. He's just trying to cover his ass.
>>
>>3936785
Again though eBay/PayPal both have buyer protection, even if the seller explicitly says no returns. As does your credit card.
>>
>>3936845
Only if the seller mislead you though. I doubt you'd have a case for returning an untested item by saying "turns out it didn't work after all"

Or is eBay that slanted towards buyers that even if the seller does all the CYA you could think of to explicitly give no guarantees as to condition you can return it claiming it's "not as described?
>>
>>3936660

Not him but what part dont you get? I think its the best film stock available. Its saturated, sharp, has low grain and lovely contrast. I would shoot it exclusively if e6 processing was cheaper.
>>
>>3936873
Yeah I mean if you really wanna believe that’s how it works go ahead but you’ll be wrong. Granted this is anecdotal but i’ve personally had eBay buyer protection end a message thread between me and a seller and force them to accept a return. On a listing that said no returns. I’m sure there are other factors like your spending history, amount of returns. Same applies to credit card buyer protection. But if you think in 2021 you’re gonna forced to accept a purchase made online you’re misinformed. There’s never been a better time to be a consumer. Ive had chase sapphire refund me for items that were at the front desk of my building that i didn’t know about lol. Amazon doesn’t even bother making you send the item back anymore they just refund you and let you keep its (to a point).
>>
>>3935885
>>3935888
>>3935890
>real film
>fake flowers
Get some real ones next time.
>>
File: 000001210011.jpg (2.32 MB, 2005x3024)
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>>3936900
I almost always shoot with real flowers. (pic related)

However, sometimes you have to be smart about what you're bringing to locations, especially if it's a big hike/overnight trip (like the ones you commented on). Less risk of damage to the flowers. Having a stash of fake flowers to use is a great idea and can come in quite handy. Don't limit your creative ideas over something like real or fake flowers anon.

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>>
>>3936904
love the shot, got an instagram?
>>
>>3936905
thanks, and yes I do. @calebsfilm
>>
>>3936873
>Only if the seller mislead you though. I doubt you'd have a case for returning an untested item by saying "turns out it didn't work after all"
I've literally had someone return something sold as FOR PARTS NOT WORKING because.. it didn't work. Ebay sided with them. Ebay will fuck sellers over at the drop of a hat.
>>
>>3936904
WHEN YOU WERE YOUNG YOU WERE THE KING OF CARROT FLOWERS AND HOW WE BUILT A TOWER TUMBLING THROUGH THE TREES
>>
>>3936904
>big hike/overnight trip (like the ones you commented on)
You take your models on hikes? Or is it a gf?
>>
File: 000000290022 4.jpg (2.51 MB, 2005x3024)
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>3936912

not catching the reference, is this from a children's book or something?

>3936913

All the people I shoot are just my friends, so I usually try and create shoots out of the things that we do, or places we go. If we're going to a new, or beautiful spot I'll always bring my camera and see what can be shot in the moment.

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>>
>>3936912
>>3936913

>>3936919

Accidentally green text my replies.
>>
>>3936919
>not catching the reference
https://youtube.com/watch?v=jsM7XS-2X50
The album is quite a meme, good song though. The flowers in the crown made me think of it.
>>
>>3936940
oh god - immediate flashbacks of my time spent on /mu/
>>
Is there anyone with laser vector files for common leatherette covers?
>>
File: 86540017.jpg (1.16 MB, 3130x2075)
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dumping some.

Alright, so is there an upper limit on how long I can expose for with bulb? this was about 7 seconds with Gold 200 but I would've loved to get the light trails leaving the frame.

I has just guessing at exposures at this point, the light meter in camera doesn't seem useful for this kind of stupid shit.

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>>
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behold my catlamp

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>>
>>3936883
The part where it looks like digital. I’ve also never needed more sharpness or less grain shooting medium format. I guess you could make that argument for 35mm though.
>>
File: 86590025.jpg (1.99 MB, 3130x2075)
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I wanna go somewhere less ugly

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>>
>>3937046

I wish I could get my digital shots to look that good!
>>
>>3937047
this has a lot of beauty imo.

the grass is always greener somehow...
>>
File: 20210727_0003.jpg (1.07 MB, 2000x1312)
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I'm getting these yellow stains on pictures when scanning negatives with my mirrorless, but not when using a scanner. What could be causing them?

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>>
File: DSCF7331.jpg (2.24 MB, 2000x3137)
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>>3937091
Another example

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>>
>>3937044
You could bring a digital camera, meter at high ISO then do some math to get the correct time for your film (dont forget reciprocity failure).
And maybe get a ND filter
>>
File: DSCF7341.jpg (1.44 MB, 2000x1746)
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>>3937091
I switched to another lens, and now I don't get stains anymore. Still not too happy with the results, but getting there.

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>>
File: b5.jpg (1.91 MB, 2681x2400)
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>>3937102
This is what silverfast gets me on an epson v600 for comparison.

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>>
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>>3937093
Where could one learn to do this type of math? everything I've seen only includes shudder speed and ND filters they're trying to sell me, what about the other variables?

>>3937047
thanks anon I could just be getting bored of my tiny downtown I guess.

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>>3937091
>>3937092
Your lens is reflecting off the film.

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File: DSCF7347.jpg (914 KB, 2000x1487)
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>>3937121
So the problem is the lens is too close to the film for that strong a light, and the light is bouncing from the lens back to the film, right?

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>>3937111
>set digital camera ISO to 25600 (or whatever the max is)
>set digital camera to aperture priority
>dial in aperture you want to use for film (or minimum aperture if that is not possible)
>zoom to same FOV
>read out exposure time of digital
>analog time is now (digital time)*(digital ISO)/(analog ISO)*sqrt((digital aperture number)/(analog aperture number))*(reciprocity failure factor)
>>
>>3937128
ah shit instead of sqrt((digital aperture number)/(analog aperture number)) you need the (analog/digital)^2 my bad

So lets say you use a 50mm f1.8 on film and an a6000 with kit zoom for metering, you set the a6k to 35mm f5.6 @ 25600, point it at the scene and it selects 1/2 exposure time, then your time is
1/2s * 25600/200 * (1.8/5.6)^2
1/2s * 128 * 0.1
6.4s
In this ballpark reciprocity failure does not matter for your film
>>
File: Dip_01-1.jpg (1.76 MB, 3000x1500)
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>>3937127
Yes, odds are you haven't masked off your light source. To DSLR scan film properly, light should only be coming through the frame you're scanning. If you have a big lightpad and light is coming from everywhere, you're going to get reflection issues.

>>3937044
There is no limit to bulb mode so long as you expose correctly. To be honest, ignore everyone's very overcomplicated, pain in the ass way of dealing with long exposures so far offered in this thread. What you want to do is understand EV values (pic related). Going off this chart, we can assume those street lights are ~EV 3 or 4. Put this into your memory, from on scenes with this type of light = EV 3 or 4.
Now jump to the chart below and find your ISO column and go down it until you find '3'. Go to the right to find the exposure combos you can use. Since you want more trails, chose one with a longer shutter speed. Looks like 8s @ F11 works. Now, since you're shooting c41 and just fucking rock an extra stop and make it 16s @ F11. Or hell, do 12s @ F11.

Here's the crux of long exposures, the longer the exposure...the more margin of error you have. If the 'perfect' exposure is 16s @ F11..getting within 1 stop (perfectly reasonable for c41 film to handle) means you could be anywhere from 8s to 30s @ F11. With c41 just err on the side of overexposing and you'll be fine. For anything longer than 15s I'd just automatically double your exposure to account for reciprocity. There is no need meticulously calculating long exposures like this. Flying by the seat of your pants is perfectly fine since the margin for error is so large.

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>>3937132
I'm stupid and didn't post the right picture.
>>
>>3937044
Ive exposed slower films at night for hours, thanks to reciprocity, its almost impossible to get overexposure. Look up star trail photography on film, its pretty common to have exposure times in the hours.
>>
File: 78510003.jpg (3.17 MB, 1989x2048)
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I'm going to share my shame with you guys, I tried night photography with Cinestill 800T. I followed my phone's light meter readings but they came out like shit desu. I'm so disappointed, mainly in myself. I should have known something was up when the app kept giving me the same exposure time and I didn't think to push the film either. Only saving grace is that I used a roll of film I had forgotten in my bag for months.

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>>3937151
another one, with this one I don't even know what the fuck is happening at the top. Maybe a light leak? But it happens on the opposite side of the photo in the next shot so I was thinking light piping?

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>>3937151
Why on earth are you using a light meter at night?
>>
>>3937151
>not realizing most meters are limited to a particular EV value...many not even being able to hit less than EV 3ish
>>
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>>3937130
>>3937133


Thanks this is really cool. Question about reciprocity failure: Does it affect the entire frame equally, or does it correlate to how much light just that part of the frame has been exposed to?

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>>
>>3937165
it affects the entire frame. don't overcomplicate it
>>
>>3937160
>>3937164

Because other times it had given me correct exposure times, 15 sec, 30 sec, 2m30s etc. This time around it was stuck at 60s
>>
>>3937160
Why wouldn't you?
>>
>>3937165
>>3937167
The failure is because the effective film sensitivity is dependant on the light intensity, so yes it varies across the frame. Just not a degree that matters.
>>
>>3937164
one I'm using goes down to -15
>>
>>3937165
Unexposed parts are effectively new film. The exposure time starts in that part when and only when theres enough light to start exposing. This is why film is so good for star trails.
>>
>>3937165
But yeah agree with the other anons, dont worry about it. With neg film, always double when longer than 10 sec, you cant go wrong. In fact, I would go buck wild. 4x exposure, why not?
>>
File: 000445370004_01.jpg (1.6 MB, 1565x1037)
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terrible lab scan but can I get some feedback on this shot?

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>>
>>3937354
it's a picture of a road. what do you want us to say?
>>
>>3937354
why is it turquoise?
>>
>>3937354
Bro get your money back
>>
>>3937354
easy fix in curves
get to it
>>
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>>3937047
Embrace it.
>>
New to film. How much do you guys pay for development+scanning? There's a local lab that does it for 20 USD per roll. I thought the scans came out pretty good and I got my negatives back too. It was also done the same day I dropped it off. It does seem kind of pricey though, compared to some online retailers where I'd have to ship it out.
This is for 35mm. 24 and 36 exposures are the same price.
>>
>>3937650
Pretty average. If you're worried about cost, scanning yourself is the way to go. Even dropping $400 on a dedicated 35mm scanner will pay itself off after ~20 rolls assuming dev only at your lab is ~$6ish.
>>
>>3937650
>>3937656
Or if you're coming from digital, just buy a macro lens for your digital and a Nikon es-2.
>>
>>3937656
Are there good dedicated scanners that can do 35/120?
>>
>>3937656
Development only is $8.50. If I stick with shooting film I'll definitely spring for a lens.
>>
>>3937664
Opticfilm 120 and Nikon 9000 are the only ones pretty much.
>>
Got my TLS Singlex. The shutter works, but it needs new lights seals, the advance guide sprocket is cracked, and I need to clean a black bar out of the viewfinder. Any resources on dealing with the black bar in the viewfinder?
>>
How long do you think Fuji is going to continue to make films. I can't find Superia x-tra 400 anywhere.

If Fuji stops making films I'll give up film photography and stick to digital.
>>
>>3937752
On further review, the advance is totally fuckered. I move the lever, the take-up spool doesn't rotate, and the frame counter doesn't advance. And since a working advance seems to be a requirement for disassembling the top of the camera (see Simon Hawkett's attempt at fixing a different problem on one of these), this thing's unfixable.

Next man up.
>>
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My last APS film :'(
Anyone here has an idea where I can get more?
>>
>>3937788
Please post BOOBA.
>>
>>3937788

Ask around on Photrio/APUG.org
>>
>>3937790
W..why? But they're smol...

>>3937804
I'm been searching there and found no info though.
>>
what are some good and decently priced M42 lenses?
>>
>>3937782
Can't find C200 where I live too, I think only b&w stocks and provia/velvia only. Looking at how often they axe stocks, I feel it will be soon. Instax cashcow is more profitable, fuck these who shoot on film, dumb teenage whores are more important I guess
>>
>>3937790
that's a man you dumb coomer.
>>
>>3937782
Just preorder on b&h or adorama. They will ship once they got stocks. Thats why I will never buy any Fuji digital camera same as those Instax.

>>3937853
Well not anymore technically speaking...
>>
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>>3937850
any russian lens, Helios-44-2 especially, just make sure to NOT get one from a valdai plant

https://radojuva.com/en/2015/04/gelios-44-helios/

picrel is not shot on film, but it should give you an idea of the look this lens provides. This specific lens is the h203-a type from the link above

I've heard a lot of good things about the Industar-50, Industar-61, the various Takumars, and the Meyer Lydith 30mm. But I don't have experience with those.

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>>3937890
I forgot to say but this was shot on APS-C, so you can't get the bokeh you'd get on 35mm/FF
>>
are there any filters that are interesting for film photography (mostly BW) ? I'm thinking of picking up yellow, red and blue filters, and more neutral filters as protection for the front element of my lenses. should I buy into the promist and other meme filters ?
>>
>>3937890
tfw my 44-2 is valdai. was my first vintage lens i got a few years ago, i never use it desu.
>>3937850
i really love my takumar 50 f1.4, optically and just the build and feel of it, so i think pretty much any takumar is really good
>>
>>3937900
The yellow red and blue ones are obligatory when you shoot bnw.

You can basically get them for free if you buy a used film camera when they come in a bag. I got mine with the minolta slr I got years ago.
>>
>>3937901
I was disappointed by the contrast rendition of my valdai 44-2, but I got a cheeky deal on an MMZ-made one recently and I've been in love with it. I really want to get a new SLR body to be able to use it to its full potential, since my OM-1 can't mount it in any way. Thinking of an AT-1 or an SP F.

>>3937902
only got a UV filter when I got my SLR :(
>>
>>3937900
Get an infrared filter and rollei infrared film
>>
>>3937905
>>3937901
>>3937890

I have the Valdai 44M-4 6-blade, standard issue on the Zenit 412LS. Honestly, to quote the Chernobyl HBO series, not great, not horrible. Contrast is a bit down but otherwise a good piece of glass, I'll probably keep mine.

>>3937850
>>3937890

Not any Russian lens, you want one made before Khrushchev left office. There is a specific reason for this, up until this point the Soviet industry across the board had prioritized quality over quantity. When Leonid Breznev seized power he prioritized production numbers over quality with his Five Year Plan.

As a result, Soviet cameras were designed with ease of production in mind and not quality. Cameras would be shipped non-functioning or missing parts to meet production quotas. This is why you buy export models because they have more stringent quality control measures.

General rule of thumb, buy anything made at KMZ, Belomo in the 1960s, anything made before the early 70s. Once Khrushchev was exiled from the Red Party, Breznev ran the whole thing into the ground and Gorbachev finished it off. That's not to say there aren't diamonds in the rough, my Zenit 412LS and FED-5c were both made post-Communism and they're good shooters. Also the Mir 1b 37mm was made post-Khrushchev in M42 and it remained a good lens.

As for other makes, M42 lenses have gotten cheap now that hipsters have moved to Canon FD/Nikon. My 412LS has its native 44M-4, a Super-Tak 28 3.5 and a 135/4 Isco Gottingen, all decent and sharp lenses. Steinheil Munchen lenses are good too just don't ever pay hipster tax for them.

Fwiw, Industar lenses are basically Soviet kit lenses, find their Jupiter equivalents. Much higher quality. Faster and better optics. Industar are decent but for a few bucks more you can buy a Jupiter lens.

t. have them both in LTM
>>
>>3937900
All you need is a yellow IMO, but it's fun to experiment. I recommend a yellow filter for everyday shooting. It helps correct a lot of BW films' sensitivity to blue what ch helps give more sky detail and overall better contrast. A blue filter helps make fog/atmospheric conditions denser.

Pro mist are literally a meme
>>
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Took this photo in Taiwan just before the pandemic. Really liked the colours of superia 400

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>>3935623

Why do some Fuji stocks smell like vomit or bile?
>>
>>3935678
Tip for film long exposures with light trails: multiple exposures or using a hat shutter to only expose when theres a car driving. This way you dont overexpose the road relative to car trails.

But very nice nonetheless.
>>
>>3937900
All those are fun and cheap cause useless on digital pretty much.

Also get a chink IR filter (720nm) and Rolleu infrared 400 (cheaper, much finer grained, and more IR sensitive than Ilford SFX).
Promists and the like work the same for B&W and colour, you can start with cheap chink ones to see if you like the look before shelling 50-80$ on a Tiffen one.

Also maybe a polariser.
Finally, if you mostly shoot B&W and you want a “protection” filter, might as well get a Hoya Green/Yellow (GX0) for 20$ and leave it permanently on the lens.
It’s the most practical filter to keep always on, it gives a subtle and “natural” effect on skies with clouds and also subtly brightens vegetation on landscapes, while it areas very little light (2/3rds of a stop).
>>
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>>3937967
the IR filter sounds great, this will be my next filter I'll buy. For now I just bought picrel, sounds autistic but I'm happy to have gotten an OEM one that could've been sold with my camera lmfao
>>
not a photographer but, why do older film cameras all have unique looks to them? a friend of mine took a few pictures with this yashica t3 and i thought they looked so good; im considering getting one. are there some more similar cameras i can look into as well?
>>
>>3937783
Damn it, the light meter works. Now it's actually worth fixing.
>>
>>3937901
>>3937890
thank you anons. will look for them and i hope to find one reasonably priced
>>3937914
gonna keep this in mind too, thank you
>>
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morocco 2018, i think it was colorplus on a yashica t2?

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>>
Anyone have experience with resilvering mirrors? The Silver Nitrate route seems like a pain in the ass (mostly because every kit seems to be intended for large mirrors, so cost far more than the camera) so are there any alternatives that work OK enough to be an improvement (e.g. Moloto chrome or similar)?
Picked up as Bessa RF for cheap (only the Heliomar, but meh), and while the shutter staggeringly is perfect, and the rangerfinder mechanism work fine, the two mirrors are basically just corrosion now and even gently wiping with a cotton bud started lifting the silvering off. It's still just about usable in daylight, so I don't want to completely fuck it by experimenting at random.
>>
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>>3938016
is that london ? that pic looks super good, shame about the traffic light
>>
>>3938019
>is that london ?
>american roadsigns
>american flag on building
>>
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>>3936904
This pic with all those sunflowers triggers my anaphylaxis.

Medium format?

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>>
>>3938019
its Seattle
>>
i just bought a leica cl specifically to shoot a ultron 28mm f2, is this retardo
>>
>>3937788
Bump? Can't find any online stores with aps films anymore aside from Ebay.
>>
>>3938155
aps isn't being made anymore
>>
>>3938093
No, it's a good lens. Does the finder work well with that, or are you using an external finder?
>>
>>3938024
>he thinks this is MF
>>
>>3938013
Meh
>>
>>3938024
Very nice
>>
>>3938001
The only two things that give a photo its “look” are the lens and the film choice. The T3's might create a unique rendition or it could have been the particular film your friend was using.
Of course you could also be reading a look into the photos that isn't really there. Make sure it really is the camera and not just the particular lighting/composition of those photos before you pay the meme tax.
>>
>>3935983
>>3936000
>so what you have to do is buy every meme literally the second your favourite youtuber recommends it, that way you have it before your friends do
Also why would you spend $30 on a roll of meme film and not one fucking dollar scanning it properly?
>>
>>3937813

It was worth a look sometimes that stuff pops up for sale there. I just scored a shit ton of freezer-kept Ektachrome 400x and Velvia 100f there.
>>
>>3938001

Don't pay Terry Tax for the T3, get the T2 which is basically the same thing for half as much money. I love mine, got it with the case for 85 shipped.
>>
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>>3938093
Well, the CL doesn't have framelines for it so now you're gunna add a VF? Kinda retardo taking a smol camera like that and making it big with a 28 Ultron and external VF. Shoulda got a CLE
>>
What's the deal with soviet LTM lenses? I've heard that:
- they all have the wrong flange distance for Leica/Canon rangefinders
- they have the exact same flange distance
- that newer ones have the same flange distance and older ones do not

Which, if any, of these are true? I've got a Canon P on the way (turned out to be pretty much the same price as a good Zorki or FED, but with a nicer finder) and it'd be nice to be able to grab cheap soviet lenses to try out focal lengths before splashing out on nicer lenses (or not, if the soviet ones turn out to be particularly nice), but not if they do not focus accurately.
>>
>>3938963
I'm using both a jupiter 12 and a jupiter 8 with a P, no problem.
>>
>>3938965
Excellent news!
>>
Why are all the Ricoh point and shoots besides the R1 and GR1 pieces of crap?
>>
>>3938997
Because there are only a few really good point and shoots and we all know what they are.
>>
>>3937850
Decently priced and good enough:
Kamero 35mm f/2.8
Vivitar 28mm f/2.8 (S/N 28x)
>>
>>3938893
>external vf

no the internal vf's entire fov is really close to 28mm, i think i remember a reference saying that even the original manual said this
>>
Do you ever worry that you're not making photos that are worth the cost of film?
>>
>>3939025
Yes. But even at some really overpriced labs it's like $.60 a shot
>>
>>3939025
I think you're confusing worth with value. A roll a week is only like a grand or two a year, but if I didn't have a good job there's no way I would be shooting film.
>>
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Went and got some film rolls developed today and they came out looking really washed out and lacking in colour. Not to mention these spots and a line going through the images.

Does anybody know what went wrong? Is the film roll fucked or can I just get them redeveloped elsewhere?

This has never happened to me before so I'm a little concerned

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>>3939029
Get your money back, if you didn't get the negs back, doubly so.
>>
>>3938963

Soyuz nerushimy, respublik svobodye, etc. I own both pre-war, wartime and post-war Soviet LTM RF's so I'll break this down for you.

Pre-war and wartime FED LTM lenses have a slightly different registration distance, different F-stops and everything. After WW2 they went to the Leica 28.8mm standard. This means that:

-Pre-war and wartime FED glass only registers properly on the cameras it was made for which are the NKVD FED (all types) issued to commissars and officers of the Soviet Secret Police
-Post-war Soviet LTM lenses are built to the 28.8mm standard
-Post war Soviet LTM lenses mount on Leica III-series cameras as well as Canons
-Post-war Soviet LTM Jupiter lenses are Carl Zeiss copies
-Post-war Soviet LTM lenses work and register properly on Leica/Canon RFs of the period

Now, regarding the old pre-war and wartime FED lenses

-They will mount on later Canon and Leica cameras
-They will not register properly but at infinity focus if you stop down to f/18 you'll get a usable image
-Once mounted, the red infinity line on the Soviet lenses will not line up with the top of the later 28.8mm LTM standard cameras, it's 1/4 turn to the right I believe

The sure-fire way to tell pre-war/wartime from post-war Soviet lenses is the F-stops. Pre-war and wartime goes f3.5, 6.3, 9, 12.5, 18

Postwar is f3.5, 5.6, 8, 11, 16

>>3938965
>>3938985

Jupiter lenses were all made post-war to 28.8mm standard so those are safe for the later Canons and Leica cameras.
>>
>>3937804
Ssshhhhhh don’t let the hipsters ruin photrio.
>>
>>3939054

You have to pay for a yearly subscription to sell there and most scalper assholes won't do that. Hipsters can buy there and that's good, I can collect all the hipster tax I want there.

t. seller there since it was called APUG
>>
>>3939052
Great info, thanks!
>>
I just scored a Yashica electro 35 yesterday and got ordered some basic film from Amazon. I have never really taken pictures with anything other than my camera. Any tips for a total noobie?
>>
>>3939179
*Phone camera
>>
>>3939179
what film did ya get?

Also, maybe get a light meter app on your phone
>>
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>>3939179
Amazon is known to have shit prices of film, I recommend looking around local shops next time.

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>>
>>3939200
Kodak ultra max 400. It was 3 packs of 36 for $45 so I’m assuming I got hosed. I just don’t know shit about fuck here and just dove in with whatever I saw
>>
>>3939204
uhhhh UHHHHHHH its like 6 dollarinos a roll my guy. You sure you didn't buy Portra 400?
>>
>>3939204
>>3939205


Also, for your future reference!
https://thedarkroom.com/film-index/
>>
>>3939205
Kodak Ultramax 400 Color Print Film 36 Exp. 35mm DX 400 135-36 (108 Pics) (Pack of 3), Basic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0948NYJ5L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_CFEKNAY2ZZR9PZ80R65S?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I got. >>3939206
>> 3939206
Also thank you now this is helpful.
>>
>>3935678
This is super nice. is it 6x7?
>>
What's the cheap color meta? Fuji Superia?
>>
>>3939247
pro 400h
>>
>>3939248

lol

>>3939247

Superia 400 and ProColor 100 (Mexican Portra)
>>
>>3939242
never buy film from amazon it's always more than buying from places like freestyle, b&h, etc. Sellers on amazong buy their film from those places and then market up the price.
>>
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>>3939261

i love pro h desu

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>>
>>3939276
I’ll make sure to go there next time. I really got ripped off. And I don’t even know if this camera will work.
>>
Anybody tried EF image stabilized lenses with film? I've been shooting a 35/2 without IS for a while in the dark, and its barely enough. IS lenses arent as useful with digis since you can crank ISO, but they would seem perfect for film. Im thinking a 35/2 IS, technically even iso 100 would be enough for the scenes I know shoot at 800, which sounds pretty awesome.
>>
beginner here
i'm currently studying in the US as a foreigner, want to buy a film camera to capture my maybe once in a lifetime experience, make some cool oldschool midwestern shots; am i better off with a cheaper camera with expensive and better quality rolls, or a more expensive camera (with a budget of around 300 USD) with "normal" rolls?

im mostly looking for a more retro look (kodak golds really looked good)
>>
>>3939405
for what it sounds like you want just get a cheap camera and cheap film
>>
>>3939405
How much do you want the camera to help you? How much time do you anticipate having to make each shot?
>>
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>>3935623
Bought a Yashica electro 35 from a antique store and the pictures came out like this. Am I able to repair this or should I just buy a new one?

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>>3939489
Might just need new light seals.
>>
>>3939493
Is that something I can just do myself
>>
>>3939498
Ye. There are tutorials out there on how to do it with yarn and adhesive backed felt, which don't rot like open cell foam does.
>>
>>3939498
Jon Goodman kits are worth it. Just email him and tell him what camera you have, and he'll sell you a kit inexpensively. No need to cut felt or foam.

jon_goodman@yahoo.com
>>
>>3937788
fucking nowhere its a shitty format anyways.
>>
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>>
Got an EOS 500 for 10 bucks, is it a piece of shit? I couldnt find much info, does it have aperture priority etc?
>>
>>3939716
>What is google?
>>
>>3939716
>does it have aperture priority etc
just look at the fucking camera
>>
>>3939719
I tried camerapedia etc but it doesnt say.

>>3939720
Hasnt arrived yet hot shot, cool it
>>
>>3939721
https://www.mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/eos/eoscamera/EOS500RebelXSKiss/index.htm
>>
>>3939489
Looks like you need new light seals to me. If you're too lazy to get some, you could get electrical tape and place it along the border of the film door. All the way around, including the hinge and the very left side where it seperates from the body. You will have to replace the tape every time you change out film and you'll like a poor hipster, but if you just need to test the camera, it works well
>>
>>3939728
Thanks. Seems like an ok body, nothing major missing.
>>
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>>3939295
more pro h

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>>3939513

Seconded Jon Goodman, I resealed my RB67 with his kit and my F3 as well. He is a man of his word.

>>3939403

you'll be fine I used to slap my 70-200 f4L/IS on my 650 all the time

>>3939295

Pro H has also been hipster taxed to the fucking moon right now for the price of one roll you can almost buy a 5-pack of Mexican Portra.
>>
>>3939772
I still have about 12 rolls of 35 that all expire in 2022, and 7 rolls of 120. I don't think it's necessarily a hipster tax; this happens every time anything is discontinued.
>>
>>3939772
I'm moving from a G system, but I suppose the IS lens lets me use smaller apertures so Im not too worried about sharpness, but Im still wondering If Im going to notice a difference between an ef 35/2 IS usm and my Zeiss planar. I'm probably just trying to come up with excuses to keep the G.
>>
>>3938568
cool thanks m8
>>
>>3939782
Looks like the canon is actually a bit sharper based on MTF curves.
>>
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Tri-X @ 1600
Rodinal 1:100 90min

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>>3939837

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>>3939838

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>>3939839

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>>3939840
don't mind the stain

tri-x in rodinal really pushes well, but a lil too much grain on 35mm

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>>3939838
what's that haloing on the building
>>
>>3939858
It's acutance from the stand development with Rodinal. iirc it's the developer from the shadows slowly leaks towards the highlights when there's nothing left to develop.
>>
How the FUCK do I post panoramic film shots I took. Help. Am I doing it right. Does it look good?
>>
>>3939877
Christ I'm dumb. See attached
>>
>>3939878
https://www.theverge.com/2020/2/25/21152029/instagram-panorama-how-to-make-feed-photos-dimensions

I prefer the bordered ones
>>
>>3939879
>Having to cut a panorama to post a panorama pic
IG was a mistake
>>
Would I be a stupid dumb idiot if I bought a Nikon F2 eyelevel from ebay for like $300?
>>
>>3939890
I don't know what they go for but I love my TLR so I'd say eye level finders are cool.
>>
>>3939919
the eyelevel is just the normal non-metered finder. it's not a waist level finder. it sounded like you were mixing them up.
>>
>>3939922
yes, my bad, I did mean waist level.
>>
How much is a pentaxk1000 worth? I paid 130 it came with 50mm, a shit 35mm and a 260mm lens. Bought it like 4 years ago.
>>
>>3939740
yeah, i agree. i like canon cams. have fun with it, anon
>>
File: Nick Carver.png (561 KB, 916x501)
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Does this man speak the truth?
>>
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>>3935632
Honestly, use a flash or a tripod and shoot a film. You're gonna get better results than shooting fast stuff and pushing it, unless you like crushed blacks and lots of grain. HP5@1600 in microphen

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>>3936168
This just isn't true. This is a ~10mp scan of ektar 100 in 6x6. The grain is about 2-3 pixels wide if you zoom in. Maybe if you shot 100 iso slide film in MF you'd need more than 24mp, but film really doesn't have this insane resolution that everyone seems to think it does.

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>>
>>3940063
lrn2focus

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>>
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>>3940066
I know how focus a camera.
lrn2takephotos

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>>3940067
>still can’t post a sharp shot

kid go spend a while learning how your camera works, then come back. no one here is buying what you’re selling.
>>
File: C200.jpg (1.63 MB, 3602x2397)
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C200 because I'm broke

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>>
>>3939838
really really like this one anon, good job
>>
Kodak ColorPlus 200 or Fuji C200 for autumn colours?
>>
>>3940121
Ultramax 400
>>
>>3940011
always does
>>
>>3939945
Probably less than that cause nobody is going to pay for those two shitty lenses. K1000 + 50 is <$100 all day.

>>3939877
I post them like dis
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSzBhs2Hcgc/?utm_medium=copy_link
>>
is there any benefit to shooting colour and printing in BW ? just curious
>>
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>>3940067

Are you using a filter?

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>>3940192
color will cost less to develop
>>
>>3940075
I fucking love Fuji's rendition of green
>>
>>3940067
you really need to shot more than every 6 months.
>>
>>3940075
I wish this wasn't shot through a window.
>>
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>>3940066
>>3940067
>posting the same fucking images over and over in multiple threads for over 3 months
are these the only pictures you've ever taken?
we don't want to see them over and over again
it's time to take some new photos
or just stop posting the same fucking photos over and over again
>>
>>3940289
They could be using the people laughing on the bench as a reaction image? idk I can't dive too deep in the mind of a nameposter, literal schizos with a complex
>>
>>3940307
no it's the same guy. look at the context for each post.
>>
>>3940307
I'm not saying it isn't the same guy?
>>
>>3940317
I see. I don't particularly care why he's reposting the same shit over and over. I just want it to stop and I wanted to call him out.
>>
>>3940317
and my misinterpretation arose because you used "they" as a singular when it's a plural word. this is why you should reject bullshit progressive narratives telling you to use a plural word in the singular sense. say "he" or "she" and stick with it. correct yourself if you assumed wrong. it's clearer.
>>
>>3940193
No, its ektar 100@64 developed normally.

>>3940289
I'm not >>3940066. I have tons of other film shots that turned out cool. I shoot all the time. Here's a 4x5 shot I took last friday and developed yesterday. I plan to print it tomorrow. Kind of a shitty scan job since my video light that I use to digitize film isn't quite big enough.

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>>
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>>3940381
something about that scan didnt feel right, tried to fix

>I plan to print it tomorrow.
Hope it turns out okay.

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>>
>>3940260
I wonder why that would be the case?
>>
>>3940401
black and white is developed by hand, i donno how big places do C41 but i think it's just throw the roll into a machine and let it cook or whatever.
>>
>>3940419
Hrm. For what it's worth, Indiefilmlab charges equal between a B&W 35mm roll and a C41 35mm roll, and I know their C41 process is the "let it cook in a machine" kind. Neither is exactly cheap if you want high quality scans in tiff.
>>
>>3940381
>>3940392
No one cares
>>
>>3940432
You do.
>>
>>3940138
No. Those are the options
>>
>>3940451
ultramax 400 retard
>>
Hello everyone, a couple months ago, I got super into film photography and even went out and bought a camera, I just wanted to know if any of yall have heard of the mamiya NC 1000? Is it good to start off on it? thanks
>>
>>3940451
Theyre shit options, I wouldnt shoot either.
>>
>>3940451
If those truly are the options, meaning you literally cannot buy anything else, C200.
>>
>>3940325
" 2. used to refer to a person of unspecified gender. "ask someone if they could help" "

Here you go, I googled it for you. Imagine writing all that and being wrong.
>>
>>3940464
>mamiya NC 1000

You did well Anon, don't worry about gear. Just go out and shoot!

If you don't like the look of the end result then I'd try different film and lens and bodies until you get what you want.
>>
>>3940548
I'm not disputing that it's an increasingly accepted usage. I'm pointing out that it leads to confusion and it's stupid to use it that way.
>>
>>3940061
damn you just love missing focus huh
>>
>>3939772
were you the one that posted about their Steinheil Munchen Auto Tele Quinar lens? Do you have the D or S version? What's the difference? I've noticed the D is red and the S is white. I'm assuming the D is a later version that's double coated? I figured out the S stands for Super but from the lettering not standing out I'm assuming its an older version.
>>
>>3935623
There's a company that prints digital photos on Provia slide film, I wonder if it makes the photo look like a slide, I mean why not?
>>
new thread
>>3940686
>>3940686
>>3940686



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