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File: 250d_0028.jpg (418 KB, 1000x667)
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>Film Community Links:
35mmc.com
Casualphotophile.com
Emulsive.org
istillshootfilm.org/beginners-guide-film-photography
digitaltruth.com/devchart.php
industrieplus.net/dxdatabase
>>
When are Kodak film simulation going to be available from a camera manufacturer?
>>
>>3918545
do Kodak make digital cameras anymore?
>>
>>3918548
No, but they could license them to somebody.
>>
>>3918550
would love some on my sony a6000
>>
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I rarely share my shit, so here's one. What sites do you guys use to resize your shit and post? it's obnoxious resizing or cropping every time you wanna post something.
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>>3918594
the hike got cut short, rip
>>
I like that picture, Anon.
>>
Does reciprocity failure apply to photo paper, /fgt/? By which I mean that if I have my times, grades, and cardboard tricks figured out for a print of a given size, if I make the same print in the same size but with a tighter aperture, is there a point at which I should figure my times out again (or not)?

I'm mostly asking for the purposes of split-grade printing, where I'd like to control the soft grade exposure to a degree where the error floor comes from the latency of the enlarger's light coming on and going off again. So I'd like to reduce its impact by stopping down.
>>
>>3918599
if you change the aperture you change the amount of light, that's universal. So if you change the amount of light on any given reactive surface, then reaction times change. I'd imagine you have to rework your numbers for any change you make.
>>
>>3918606
Well, what I really care about is how large an error I'm introducing by halving or quartering the amount of light per second, and doubling or quadrupling the exposure time. There's a tuning order to this sort of thing which I'd like to figure out and follow to a reasonable limit per the equipment I've got. (said kit being a filament bulb, a Russian suitcase-style portable enlarger, and an analog print timer.)
>>
>>3918541
Dead Pixels R Us
>>
>>3918617
This is most likely dust.
>>
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>>3918609
Sounds like you might have to experiment a little; i'm sorry I don't have any experience to guide you or give you advice. What I do know is that I always have to adjust my timer for reciprocity failure when I change anything for night time photography. Now I'm curious to see your results though.
>>
>>3918594
Looks nice anon I would edit out the sign tho
>>
Do you guys enjoy 'lomographic' cameras?
I recently bought a piece of shit old camera for 5 bucks and I'm going to test a roll soon. It appears everything is kinda working except the shutter sometimes goes to 1/30 or something for no reason.
>>
>>3918675
Congrats, you've discovered why a $5 piece of shit costs $5, and how it is a piece of shit.
>for no reason.
But something is eluding you yet.
>>
>>3918678
Not sure what you are trying to say but I'm going to have FUN with this lil camera
>>
>>3918659
Well, thanks for the uninformed amateur advice on a peripherally related topic! It's almost exactly what I was not looking for.
>>
>>3918688
You're the one asking questions like "does changing my aperture change my math in regards to reciprocity failure" like no shit it changes your time table. It's a pivotal variable in any branch of photography. Add some photos at least, don't be a complete waste.
>>
>>3918697
I did indeed only imply "beyond straight doubling exposure time" by discussing reciprocity failure, so clearly your advice is directly applicable.
>>
>>3918594
I just export from lightroom or capture one at a specific size for /p/. You can do an entire roll at once.
>>
where the fuck do I get my film developed and scanned that actually is a good job?
>>
What aperture and focal length were those plastic super cheap point and shoot film cameras people used in the 90s? I was checking my parents old pictures and everything pretty much was in focus no matter the distance
>>
>>3918738
richard photo lab
the darkroom
lti lightside
>>
>>3918746
pretty sure its f/8 or f/11
>>
>>3918675
I don't hate on people who shoot with cheap Lomo-type cameras but I don't like using them myself. I like solid, reliable, and well designed cameras instead of plastic bodies.

If you get some good shots with that sort of gear, more power to you.
>>
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Hey fellas, question for you.
How much editing do you usually end up doing to your lab scan? It feels weird to edit them at all in my opinion but when I know I did everything right and they still look off I just have to fix em.
I try to edit them as little as possible to retain some sort of "purity" if there even is such a thing with digital scans of an analog medium but still seems funky to me. Thoughts?

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>>3918768
Lab scans are just one interpretation, just like making prints. If you don't like the scan, edit it; it'll still maintain its character.

I got some scans back once of an underexposed roll. The scans were awful. I re-scanned them and got much better colors out of a bunch of the shots.
>>
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>>3918768
I'll post some other recent shots.

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>>3918768
A recent favorite
>>3918770
If only I had my home scanning set up where I live now. I'm living in another country and I have to rely on a local lab (which is pretty good, surprisingly) but I miss being able to use negative lab pro and tweak everything to my liking like I did with these photos.

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>>3918609
>Well, what I really care about is how large an error I'm introducing by halving or quartering the amount of light per second, and doubling or quadrupling the exposure time.
Practically speaking, you only have to "worry" if the change is so big that the new exposure (before accounting for reciprocity) is in the minutes, while the previous one was 5-10 seconds. This usually only happens when you have to print very big.
In practice, it's not much of an issue (and hence not much discussed) because you do an exposure strip test at the magnification and aperture your final print will be. There's little reason to do that in any other aperture.

The only reason I can think of, that you'd need a calculated (and not striptest) time, is if you want to skip the striptest altogether due to time concerns or increased volume.
For those niche cases, darkroom exposure meters exist. Sometimes even attachments for normal handheld lightmeters, so they can be used for prints - I know for a fact Gossen made some for their "pro" models (Luna Pro SBC etc.), others too.
Or, you run some tests and keep extensive notes, which you then use for the higher volumes without having to run them every time.
But I'm guessing for most papers you can find a datasheet with reciprocity. I know for sure that they state ISO (also under different temp lightsources), but I honestly never bothered to even look if reciprocity is also stated (probably is).

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>>3918768

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>>
Traveling through Buenos Aires just before the pandemic.
>>
>>3918768
>pull green curve down
>dehaze -5
>spot heal or texture depending on model

Also get a good relationship with your lab and they’ll scan for the type of vibe you want.
>>
>>3918768
Your pics are nice and comfy anon, like the other anon said how your picture looks will depend a lot on your scanner so make the pictures look like you want.
Some labs will even tweak the images without telling you, my lab always sends my scans super bright and blown out to shit and I have to lower the 'exposure' in lightroom every time
>>
>>3918752
the darkroom has shit scans
>>
>>3918772
This looks like SF. Is that where you are now or just where these were taken?
>>
>>3918852
Who does better scans at similar rates? I've ordered from there a couple of times and the scans are usually fine, but some are bad.
>>
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>>3918860
>Who does better scans at similar rates? I've ordered from there a couple of times and the scans are usually fine, but some are bad.
Not very helpful in your situation anon, but nobody.
That's the answer; nobody will be able to deliver a result where *all* the frames on the roll, under different light etc., are good.
And the reason for that, is nobody is scanning and colour correcting manually. It's impossible to do so, for a price that would be even remotely close to affordable for a hobbyist. So you either do it yourself, or pay through the ass.

Some labs are to be avoided indeed. However don't sweat it, between the decent labs, they all pretty much use the same machines, running the same software and roughly the same settings (auto colour correction).
So as long as you're getting decent res, and it's a Noritsu or a Frontier machine, that's the top end you can have really. Some lab clerks don't know how to change settings in the machines, to get the highest res possible or .tiff files, or some might have cranked up the sharpening aeons ago when the technician set up the machine, and don't know how to change any of it.
But if you're getting decent res, or even .tiff files, just use the lab and don't bother searching for a better one, just save some money and get your own scanner eventually.
About resolutions with those machines, they can go up to 26MP - 64 base - roughly for the highend ones.
Though most labs don't know how to get the max res (or don't wanna bother) and many times give a "32 base" ~14MP file as their highest res option (for some older models this is the actual max), or even "16 base" 6MP files.

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>>3918675
I enjoy using my Holga 120N and Vitae Ultra Wide and Slim. It's fun trying to make nice photos with them that aren't the typical lomo kitsch.

>>3918746
They were usually single focus ~30mm lenses and had a fixed aperture of F8ish. Basically everything from ~2m to infinity would be in focus 100% of the time.

>>3918768
There's zero purity to any scan...ESPECIALLY when it comes to c41.
>>
>>3918617
>>3918656

both wrong, it's remjet.
>>
>>3918963
literally how could someone be so wrong and so confident at the same time
>>
>>3918954
Nice pic
>>
>>3918857
I'm from that area but I'm going around South America right now. Stocked up a bunch of 35mm and I'll likely be posting a bunch of pics in these threads soon.
Though r.i.p to olympus 35 rc that I used to take most of these pics. Fuckng rain got my boy </3
>>
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>>3918989
Forgot pic. Argentina is damn photogenic.

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>>3918893
I appreciate the answer. I got my own Primefilm XE-S recently and was able to get better color out of individual frames from an underexposed roll, but noise is pretty bad (but that could be from bad exposure, idk).

Like I said, the scans are usually acceptable. I might send to Indie Film Lab good scans if I ever need them. I would get my stuff developed there because they're local but their prices are horrible for black and white.
>>
>>3918998
>but noise is pretty bad (but that could be from bad exposure, idk
Underexposed (thin neg) or overexposed (dense neg)?

With underexposure you get grainy+noisy results, indeed.
The grain comes from the fact that the fast, grainy layers of the emulsion make up the majority of the density (=information), while the finer grained slower layers contribute very little (each emulsion has 2-3 different speed - and hence different graininess - layers for each colour).
The noise comes from trying to push the shadows to bring up the brightness in the underexposed image.

On the other hand, if the neg is really, *really* dense, you might get noise again, but for a different reason: the scanner bumps up the ISO to be able to "see through" the dense negative, just like a digital camera. However that's very rare for colour negatives, they don't build densities big enough to cause the scanner to bump the ISO.
It could be an issue with heavily overexposed B&W though, or underexposed slides, those can have quite high densities.

Which software are you using for the scanner btw?
Normally, you shouldn't be getting more noise than the lab scans, your scanner has a good DMax (more than colour negs would ever need).
>>
>>3919005
They're definitely underexposed. I used both Vuescan and Silverfast and got similar results with a lot of noise in the shadows. I think if that happens again I could do a few individual scans and do a median stack in photoshop or imagemagick.

The resolution is pretty good, especially for a home scanner. I think it was the lighting conditions for that roll because it was pretty overcast, but the AE-1P's meter isn't weighted at all, afaik.
>>
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Damn, I got the film back and I guess I spot metered for a patch of light or someshit.
>>
>>3919016
The spot meter virgin vs. the average meter chad
>>
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>>3919009
>They're definitely underexposed.
Ah fair enough.
Yeah underexposed negs are not much salvageable tbdesu. Either crash the blacks and let them be, or maybe you could use one of the fancy denoise plugins that people use on digital (Topaz had a good one).
On a different note, sharpness is a bourgeois concept.
>t. William Marxensen

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>>3919026
damn clean off the grease from your hands and stop touching the element
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>>3919029
>clean off the grease from your hands
Kinda hard to do anon, it'd require some acrylic polishing, but it would defeat the purpose.

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>>3919016
Nah I like the look
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>>3919043
wtf is that?
>>
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>>3918768
Back to post more recents.

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>>3918768

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>>3918768

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>>3918768

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>>3918697
This is a very strange exchange to watch because you literally completely missed the point of the question of the guy you're responding to and blaming him for it.

He's asking about reciprocity failure and photo paper. You're for some reason trying to tell him that closing his aperture will cause him to have to increase his exposure times, which he obviously knows. He's asking specifically about whether and to what extent reciprocity applies to photo paper.
>>
>>3919135
And in the amount of time he asked that and I answered I also found info on a blog thread telling him exactly what the other dude told him, as well as actual book scans giving him advice. But I opted not to share anything more.
No, I didn't miss the point. I answered his obvious question as to whether his times would change. And they would. He obviously didn't know if he's asking. That's the only part I gave him an answer on, I could have easily told him about the ilford link telling him about test strips and the process of troubleshooting or the photrio blog telling him everything he needed to know but I'm not going to spoonfeed some shitter that can't use google and gets mad when someone won't spoonfeed him.
>>
>>3919092
Nice one anon!

>>3919074
It's a "soft focus"-like filter. Hoya Softener B (comes in 2 strengths, A and B). The small acrylic teardrops act like tiny lenses and scatter light, especially bright sources and point lights, giving a bit of halation and soft image on top of your normal image. Kinda closer to soft focus lenses (but still far from them) than "normal" diffusion filters.
Same idea/copy of the Zeiss Softar filters really.
>>
>>3919169
I bought a bunch of vintage filters for my Hasselblad, I think I got both Zeiss Softar lenses. Not really eager to try them out because I don't have any ideas for them yet, but seeing the end result sparks some interest.
>>
>>3919172
They're fun to try anon, maybe get an adapter (or just handhold them) on 35mm so your trials can be on the cheap.
The more specular highlights in the image, the stronger the effect.
Of course, they're primarily for portrait, with smooth gradients on skin etc. rather than landscapes, and they can give a quite pleasing result there too.
Special effects filters can be fun, and now they're usually quite cheap, especially in physical sales (thrift shops, estate sales etc.).

About the Softars you can control the effect by aperture (also focal length), so if it's too strong for your taste, you could try stopping down a bit to make it more moderate and to your taste.
>>
>>3918972
I took the picture and processed the film you retard.
>>
>>3918881
What stock did you use? I'm guessing Superia 400 since its got all the purples and green. Love this shot.
>>
>>3919088
Just stopping by to say that this is an excellent photo
>>
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>>3919229
Lomo 400. My background is in video, so I only recently started experimenting with film, but I really like the look of it.

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>>3918594
>>3918595
>>3918659
Damn anon, thats lovely. What film stock did you use?
>>
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>>3919283
I should really label my files, I have to check the film to know for sure but it's probably ektachrome.
>>
>>3919379
that or portra400
>>
>>3919259
Thanks man :)
>>
what p&s cameras there are which have 28mm lens? i've got nikon litetouch 70w but i need a second p&s with same 28mm focal length. i know olympus xa4 has 28mm lens but it's hard to find and it has meme tax in its price.
>>
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Hello, fellas. I lurked some non-anonymous film-related communities and dislikes them all, so I ended up here.

I'm shooting film for roughly 5 years. Before now I mostly shot with rangefinder cameras (mainly soviet copy of Leica II and soviet MF RF), but right now I'm migrating to mirrored systems: last week I bought soviet copy of Hasselblad 1600F with three lenses (normal, portrait and wide), for next monday I arranged a meeting to buy Pentax Spotmatic.

Here is my best photo. Kodak Portra 160, Moskva-2.
>>
>>3919547
Looks kinda blurry
>>
>>3919536
Nikon AF600
Konica Lexio 70
>>
>>3919536
Wide lens are bad and you should be ashamed
>>
>>3918541
Anyone know where to find Fuji Eterna rolls?
>>
>>3919652
Shut up fool
>>
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>>3919772
Northern Film Lab or Silbersalz!
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>>3919016
overexposing is much more forgiving than underexposing. So unless you're going for a specific underexposed look, over exposing by a stop or two will look much more like an accurate exposure than one stop under.
>>
>>3918738
Do both at home
>>
hello whores
I shot a roll unmetered using just EV tables and the exposures are much better than my metered shits. I know my camera's meter works and I understand how reflective meters work. am I retarded?
>>
>>3919850
yes
>>
>>3919850
probably but, you could also just be retarded
>>
>>3919850
Using EV tables and light level estimates, you effectively shoot with incident light metering. Using reflective meters you're shooting with reflected light metering. Incident is more accurate.
>>
Is 90 euro for a Canon eos 5 a ripoff?

It's in good condition and from a store. I want something better than my eos 300 for shooting my EF lenses on film.
>>
>>3919901
As what I can see on ebay, seems like slightly lower than average price. If you want it, why not.
>>
>>3918278

forgot to ask last time but what film is this ?
>>
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>its been 2 weeks and the lab still hasn't developed my roll

Fuck this shithole country im developing the film myself next time
>>
>>3920161
Sounds terrible, where the heck do you live? If anything, I can suggest good russian lab, which accepts reels via mail, maybe sending your film to another country will make the deal faster: sreda.film
>>
* sreda.photo

I'm idiot, sorry.
>>
>>3920174
Brazil. They promised me that they'll develop and scan next week but I have my doubts

Sending to Russia would probably take the same amount of time but cost a lot more. I guess I'll just look for other analog photographers to see if they're interested in buying the equipment to develop rolls ourselves.
>>
>>3920209
Damn I also live in south america and get my rolls in 3 days, huehueland must suck
>>
>>3920209
lol of course it's brazil. it's being done on brazil time. you'll get it eventually..... heh heh heh
>>
I don't know if this belongs better in the gear thread, but I figure discussion of film scanners is probably best-suited for here.

I've shot digital for a while, but my grandfather (also a photo hobbyist, he developed his own stuff) recently died and left me a massive collection of slides that he's taken during his life, as well as some negatives, and all of his film cameras as well. I want to get a film scanner that will allow me to create a digital archive of all those slides in a resolution high enough for me to not have to worry about keeping most of the originals (except for the particularly outstanding ones), as well as one that will allow me to continue to scan film that I'll eventually be shooting using his old cameras and be able to produce competitively-high-fidelity scans into the future.

If that makes sense, which scanner should I look into purchasing? Right now I'm looking at the Plustek OpticFilm 8200i SE or the Plustek OpticFilm 8200i Ai. Is the major difference between those two simply the software? The Pacific Image Prime Film XEs Super Edition and Pacific Image Prime Film XAs Super Edition also look competitive.

If anyone here can help me out, this is basically uncharted territory for me and I'm flying blind.
>>
>>3920213
>Is the major difference between those two simply the software?
Yes. The only difference actually.
*However* don’t discount that completely, thinking you’ll find it somewhere cracked. Silverfast are complete cunts with licensing, and licenses are tied to specific models, so given the small (mostly boomer) community of scanner users, finding it cracked is very unlikely. So if you want to use that software, factor in the price as well. Of course you could use Vuescan instead. Also not free but maybe you can find it cracked. But don’t be a cunt in this case (if you can afford it) cause the guy behind it is a one-man shop and made drivers for a huge number of scanners otherwise abandoned from the manufacturers.
>>
>>3920225
Thanks for the honest advice. I most likely can afford it; it's actually great to know something like that exists out there. I'll take this all into consideration.

I considered sending these slides off to be scanned by an external company but ultimately decided I'd rather do it myself, so I can give them the personal attention I think they deserve (since I liked my grandfather a lot and want to do his shots justice).
>>
>>3920234
Also, for actual autism about specs (which is a good thing when comparing equipment), with real world tests on resolution and speed, check film scanner.info if you haven’t already.
>>
>>3920210
What country?

The worst part is that the cunts ignored my messages for multiple days, and when they finally responded they just said "oh we got your rolls last week, well develop them next week dont worry :)"
>>
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First reel from Kiev-88 has been developed. My room on wide agle lense is probably best frame from it.
>>
And also there is a qute doggo.
>>
>>3920464
fuck you people really live like this?
>>
>>3920466
What's wrong? I think my room is nice.
>>
>>3920464
clean your room jesus that's cluttered as fuck
>>
>>3918541

God damnit guys, I spent 800 bucks on a Contax G set when I shouldve just bought a GA645. I thought 35mm with good lenses would be good enogh, but running it next to my 645 slr really highlights how much of a difference there really is between FF and MF
>>
>>3920464
A hundred copeks and a can of jaguar says you have a carpet on your wall
>>
>>3920541
Strangely, I'm not and never had. But wish you nice day from land of bears and vodka, yeah.
>>
>have an alcohol thermometer that goes from 10 to 30c
>house gets really warm during the summer
>take it out to dev some film
>all separated and expansion tank (at the top) filled
>manage to join the separated parts
>expansion tank still full
>warm it up till it's full
>doesn't join
>warm it up more
>explodes in my hand
i just wanted to dev some film
>>
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>>3920543
We have bears and vodka on this side of the border too.
>>
>>3920549
Nice to meet ya! The bear is out of frame, sorry.
>>
Just had my first darkroom session in a new apartment's bathroom with a jank-ass soviet enlarger. And, would you believe it, it is genuinely useful to tape bin liner to the walls and ceiling because otherwise absolutely enormous fogging will occur and fuck your prints right up. Over three hours I got one print that wasn't fogged to fuck and back on a rocking horse, and that one was properly underexposed -- so I'll get back to those negatives tomorrow.

My question: how bad is it that said enlarger's lens is also quite foggy? It does let light through, and my times are like "5 seconds w/ double Foma Variant M1 filters (total grade 3)", so it's certainly not foggy enough to block light. My fucked-up test prints suck in ways that are well enough to conceal subtle flaws.
>>
>>3920561
Why don't you just buy yourself a non fucked up enlarger and lense? They're cheap as hell nowdays. If you're interested in soviet equipment, I can suggest Heвa and Лeнингpaд enlarger series and Beгa-11У as your best lense choise.
>>
>>3920564
The Zenit was available quickly, cost a very low amount of money, and fit a particular requirement: that it should be easily portable from another room to the bathroom. If I had the strength of two men I'd carry my Focomat into said bathroom for every session, but as I'm not a suitcase special it is. I'm also not going to leave Leitz gear next to where I shower and do laundry, that's just silly.

I tried fitting the other enlarger's Focotar lens on it, but in the 40mm configuration it appeared to vignette (though the lamp was also misaligned; I should try this again now that it's straight), and with the 50mm extension it conflicts with the "safety filter" which I'd have to remove.

Honestly I'm surprised at how low a soviet pain factor this thing has. Most of my trouble seems to have been caused by procedure I hadn't yet had the chance to learn, being previously spoiled by the international German.
>>
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>>3920213
Since you want to mostly scan slides...get a macro lens for your digital camera and a Nikon es-1 that screws into the lens via 52mm filter threads. It's literally made for copying slides. It will be 100x faster than any other scanner and delivery the same quality your digital camera delivers.

Any other recommendation will be worse in terms of time required and quality and probably more expensive.

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>>3920566
Seriously consider buying Leningrad as I said above. It costs <10$ and fits your requirement to be portable. Back, like, 5 years later or so, before I moved to a new flat and built a separate darkroom (lucky me, yeah), I was in the same position as you and my old Leningrad-4 was easy enough to move between shelf and a bathroom.

Speaking about lense, I'll stand my ground too, Vega-11 coasted 8$ for me and it considered best soviet enlarger lense there was by several people I discussed this topic with.
>>
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>>3920539
Sell the contax?

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>>
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>>3920464
What a cluttered mess. Look at all those dirty dishes strewn about. Is that a photograph of Lenin as well? You're a real nasty guy.
>>
>>3920539
you aren’t missing out
>>
>>3920539
Good thing film cameras are easy to try and resell with zero loss of money so long as you don't overpay.
>>
>>3920572
Thanks for the tip, I'll look for a Leningrad and Vega-11. I doubt those will turn up in my neck of the woods anytime soon, but if they do, I'll be sure to seize the opportunity. To be sure I'd quite prefer to have a manually-focused enlarger instead of this autofocusing one with a fogged lens, since that would allow me to use all sorts of lenses (i.e. Leitz).

Alternatively I could take the risk of figuring out the mechanics of said autofocus linkage and recalibrate it for a 40mm Focotar, but that seems like it could easily be a bridge too far. I wonder if I could attach a LTM Industar-61 L/D and use its focusing ring to adapt to the autofocus setting; the enlarger lens is an Industar f/3.5 so if a Tessar design works both ways, it could be my easiest solution.
>>
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What are these films sold in Singapore?
There's films like
>Piccolo film
>Boen
>Sunday morning
>Cucifilm
>Cira
>>
>>3920637
If they're C41 their either going to be Kodak or Fuji. More likely Fuji given the Asian location
>>
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For those of you who actually shoot hella film and self develop, what dev tank do you use?
I think I'm outgrowing my 2-reel Paterson

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>>3920663
I've got a 3-reel Paterson and a 2-reel Paterson. The latter I only use when the former hasn't yet dried entirely because it's got a leaky lid. Having both does give a lot of flexibility for shooting, either different films or more of the same.
>>
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>>3920663
I use a 3 reel paterson, which lets me dev 3x rolls of 35mm and 4x rolls of 120 (two rolls of 120 per reel).

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>>
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>>3920637
At a guess I'd say they were lomography films repackaged for the Indonesian market
>>
>>3920637
Its kodak vision films (250D, 500T) with the remjet removed like cinestill from indonesia and australia
>>
>>3920678
Not from lomography but local labs.
>>
>>3920687
They are just rebranded random film stocks you inane retard
>>
Enlarging frens, is the apo rodenstock worth it? Any alternatives? Also what paper should I start out with?
>>
>>3920754
Don't know shit about first question, sorry, but as for paper I recommend Foma**speed** Variant. You don't want messing around with FB paper as your first experience.
>>
>>3920754
Any Rodenstock enlarging lens is top shit, right next to Nikkors and Focotars and the like.
>>
>>3920464
Viva Allende. What wide angle lens is this?
>>
>>3920692
Correct, various film stock repackaged locally and not from lomography. Why are you mad over that?
>>
>>3920789
Lel he meant that Lomography is the base stock and you took it as if they're repackaged by lomography.
>>
>>3920789
God damn you are stupid
>>
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>>3920755
I got the lens name wrong, its a Rodenstock APO-Rodagon which is apparently the top tier lens like the other anon said. Thanks for the recc, most of the b/w I shot was foma 400 anyway.

>>3920760
The price difference between rodenstock and the nikkor is fairly large, but I'll probably get a rodenstock anyway. Thanks.
>>
So, Zenit enlarger guy here. Turns out that the lens I said was clearly molded beyond usability? It's actually ultra mega fucked! To the point where light is dispersing off the crap inside and around it so much that it creates an "inverse vignette" on the paper, i.e. darker center and lighter outsides.

Luckily there's the exact same lens available at a used photo goods dealer for relatively cheap, so in a couple of days we'll see if it was indeed the lens, or a bulb alignment issue (it's a condenser head), or just some massive soviet fuckery.
>>
>>3920820
... that being said, I did get the light leaks and reflections under control in my bathroom-cum-darkroom, enough to discover how fucked the lens is anyway. So that's progress. Hardly wasted any paper either, a mere six sheets.

Thank you for read diary dear Internet
>>
>>3920795
>>3920793
Well im sorry i misunderstood it, but none of them use film from lomography as the base stock as far as i know, its mostly kodak vision films.
>>
>>3920831
Go away no one cares
>>
>>3920832
Some dude asked what those rebranded film are asshole.
>>
>>3920831
>its mostly kodak vision films.
That's actually interesting and surprising.
Cine film makes the most sense financially, but on the other hand they need to provide development because not only can it not developed in normal C-41 machines, but it'll clog them and ruin other people's films if those cine films are accidentally put in one.
Some US companies tried to do that in the past, repackage cine film, and even though they made it absolutely clear the films had to be processed in their own shops, customers still dropped them in random labs and fucked things up.
>>
>>3919547
Not a fan, the models hands are not very feminine and shes not particularity photogenic . I'm interested to hear about this photo, why stage something like this? Do you have any other photos to share?
>>
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>>3920780
Venceremos! It's coviet Mir-26 (Mиp-26). If you're interested in buying so, there are two versions of it: B (it's not b, it's russian v) and Б. B has older mount that fits Hasselbladski variants Salut and early Kiev-88. Б has newer mount, that fits later Kiev-88 and can be mounted on modern MF cameras via adapter. That's pretty good wide angle lense, with you fun if you buy it!

>>3920847
I'm not only has plenty of more to share, I can start with a direct sequel of the work discussed. I was trying to shot a series dedicated to leftist ideologies, the first work named «Communism» and the second is «Anarchism». I also was working on «Antifaschism», but the output shot revealed to be so bad, I discarded it and decided to stay on two-works series.
>>
A dumb question - Was anyone processing Vision3 or other cine stocks in E6? Heard it is possible, but I'm wondering if someone did this already
>>
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What is some not too contrasty b&w you recommend? Shooting mostly family and street.
>>
>>3920858
god that image is so cringe
>>
>>3920847
Tf are you on, anon? She's holdin a chopper. I don't think it's supposed to be a photo displaying photogenic, feminine beauty.
I'm interested in the concept, just not a fan of the execution

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>>3920567
Huh. I was thinking about that, but was worried about things like proper background lighting, etc... but maybe I'm overthinking it, since I can control exposure from the camera body.

Getting them at the same resolution as the photos I already take is tempting, since that's a reference point I already know. I'll look into this as well, thanks anon. From the looks of it it'll only be half the cost of a good film scanner; If I get the ES-2 that comes with a holder for strips as well so I can also deal with the negatives.
>>
>>3920820
>>3920821
Turns out the enlarger lens wasn't moulded over; it was only covered in dust (front and rear) that wouldn't come off with a microfiber cloth unless I breathed on it first. With a little moisture the thing brightened roight the fuck up. Tonight I'll know if this was the ticket, surely.

All of my keks to myself for spending another twenty squid on a better, more coated version of that exact same lens, then coming up with a plausible solution while waiting for the postal service.
>>
So, it finally arrived. Very nice and comfy camera, I really appreciate TTL exposure meter that's linked with shutter speeds ring. The only thing to spoil my happiness of obtaining it is the fact I'm having troubles with fitting my Sonnar 85/2 via adapter. I hope I'll get it right with another adapter and not have to buy a whole new lense.
>>
>>3920858
Interesting, I'm really not a fan of the over processed look. But it is a cohesive aesthetic between your two photos. If you are staging models to photo then why not do something more naturally energetic? I haven't given it much thought but for communism you could have had her in a field of wheat side profile, sickle & hammer etc... for anarchism you could have had her throwing a bottle at a wall or something. Not great ideas but I hope I'm making my point clear.

>>3920943
I agree with what you are saying, what I mean is that her lack of photogenicity is distracting. My eyes are initially drawn to her hands. You have to work to your model's strength and weaknesses.
>>
>>3921044
Got 2 of these bad boys. Built like a tank, such great cameras. Enjoy!
>>
So… I had two M39-M42 adapters. One of them revealed to be bad, with it the lense had no hyperfocal distance, and another one is just right. The lense stucked in one of them. You know, which one. I tried to unclog it with a knife and did two holes in own finger. Everything were covered in blood: the floor, the lense, my hand, haevens, God… Finally I understood, that lense is either will got out of this adapter nor ruined. So I bought heavy artillery in body of Dremmel and saw the adapter the fuck out. In less then a minute, Sonnar fitted second adapter and then the camera. The hyperfocal persisted.

Pic: Spotmatic + Sonnar 2/85, the sawed adapter, by finger.
>>
Has anyone here shot with the super low ISO kodak vision films?
>>
>>3921139
How low of an iso?
>>
>>3921145
Usually they range between ISO's of 1.5 and 6
>>
>>3921139
lowest I'v ever gone was 12 now i'm fucking curious to see results @ 1.5
>>
>>3921243
Film Photography Project carries a few very low ISO films.
>>
>>3921248
Lomography does, too
>>
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strange processing anon here ig:
i got into digital so IT'S FUCKING OVER but i'm planning to attempt to process e-4 sometime in the next month or two
here's some cd4 e6 cross processed negatives

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>>3921433
wait fuck wrong image

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>>
>>3921446
>>3921556
I dig it
>>
>>3918541

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>>3921679
Nikon F3
Superia Xtra400
Epson V600
Some editing done in post on my iPhone
>>
>>3921679
Nice truck, but usually when you're selling a truck you want closer photos and I'd recommend going digital for cost effectiveness. If you're trying to actually make a hobby of this, I'd recommend also getting closer and having more interesting angles.
>>
>>3921680
who cares what you took it with or what you used to edit if it's garbage
>>
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My >>3921044 Pentax's shutter stucked. I managed to shot literally only 7 frames before that happened. My ass is on fire right now.
>>
I managed to calm down and ustucked it in minutes.

In a close view, revealed that M39-M42 adapter fell of the lense and stucked in a mirror closing mechanism. I managed to get it out with a screwdriver and shutter released.
>>


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>>3921768
>Buy an old mechanical camera they’re more reliable
>>
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>>3918541
Film is Vision3 250D
I'm consistently getting this red/purple cast in the shadows of images. I'm not sure if it's actually in the film, or if it's an issue with scanning or with processing.
I'm scanning with a Dörr light table which is supposed to be pretty good. Processing is in Darktable. WB is set to the white of the table, and AFAIK I am using negadoctor correctly.
I've observed the same issue with C-41 films developed in ECN-2 where other results online didn't show any hint of it. I don't have any C-41 chems but I guess I could get a roll developed at a lab for comparison.
Also, there's this weird halo going on between the dark trees and bright sky. Does that often happen on film? Makes it look like a bad HDR job.
This is a very small crop which is why it's so grainy. Aside from color issues, I've been very impressed with 250D.

What's the deal filmbros?

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Maximum Lens Aperturef/1.0
Focal Length (35mm Equiv)0 mm
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Exposure Bias2 EV
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>>
>>3921794
Gorgeous!
>>
>>3921899
Is it a short end you got off ebay that didnt say it was really old in the description?
>>
>>3921899
Those halos around the trees, something weird going on here.
>>
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did this lab really leave water spots on just this negative somehow? can't imagine what else this is. I've never had this happen before from a lab. the weird thing is it looks like it's only this frame and the frame before it. the ones before and after those 2 frames are fine.
>>
>>3921970
Looks like dirt
>>
>>3921899
Were you developing it on your own?
>>
>>3921768
Buying analog cameras is a gamble especially online
>>
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just got some film rolls back, pretty happy with the results

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>>
>>3922028
Pretty great keep em comin
>>
>>3918541

God damnit, why does opticfilm 120 have to be such a finicky little shit. Scared me shitless again, got stuck and started making some pretty awful noise. It kept doing it even after I punplugged and plugged it again. Thankfully it stopped when i pulled the pc cord off as well.

It just gives me these constant scares but somehow manages to work again.
>>
>>3922028
comfy
>>
File: 97080003.jpg (3.03 MB, 3003x3000)
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>>3922032
>>3922039

I'm a little disappointed they're underexposed. But I hadn't realized I metered but I never changed the aperture lmfao. Only realized I forgot when I looked down after burning the roll and seeing f/4.0 instead of 2.8.

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>>
>>3922045
Works with atmosphere
>>
File: 95990001.jpg (2.68 MB, 3003x3000)
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>>3922049
Thanks!

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>>
File: 95990010.jpg (2.78 MB, 3003x3000)
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>>3922050

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>>
File: 97080004.jpg (3.19 MB, 3003x3000)
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>>3922045

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>>
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>>3922062
anyone know why this happened at the bottom?

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>>
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>>3922073
happened on like 7/12 stills from the roll

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>>
>>3922073
>>3922074
is it possible your mirror doesn't flip completely?
>>
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>>3922095

Is it a maintenance issue? Oh fuck.

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>>
>>3922095
>>3922062
>>3922061
>>3922050
>>3922045
>>3922028


These were taken after that hiking trip.
>>
>>3922037
It’s a driver issue.
When the driver driving the motor crashes for some reason, it sounds like the thing is dying a horrible mechanical death while it’s guts are grinding themselves to the ground.
But it’s fine.
>>
>>3922104
sounds like a great scanner. how can anybody recommend something that has this happen
>>
>>3922100
Don't know, it was just my first thought on that issue.
>>
>>3922117
Kek like there’s any choice anon.
It’s either that or $1,000+ old nikons and Minoltas that run on XP or Mac OS 9 with even more driver issues.
>>
>>3922154
camera scanning. everybody has a digital camera already.
>>
>>3922155
> be me
> have professional MF camera in price of pre-owned DSRL
> don't have DSRL because why
>>
>>3922155
You’re in /fgt/ though.
Many people don’t. Or they don’t have the repro setup (macro, light table, copy stand) to scan with.
>>
>>3922155
I don't even have a computer
>>
I am a total film newfag and I have a Pentax PC35AF that takes two AA batteries

How far can I expect these two batteries to take me? Would it get through a roll of film? Less/more?
I ask because I am wondering how many batteries to buy -- right now I have five rolls of film with 36 exposures each.
>>
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>>3921936
>>3921946
My developer was exhausted which might have been causing the issues.

I've just tried a test shot with fresh developer and it's like night and day. I'm not sure if tired developer has been the cause all along, because I've been getting red/purple in the shadows since about the start. Maybe originally it was just me not developing properly, and that got replaced by bad developer. Probably done about 10 real batches, with a bunch of test strips in between over about 2 months, so my 1st batch of dev being used up sounds about right.

Results from this are encouraging though. Not a hint of shadow cast; in fact colors are very true to life.

>>3921990
Yes, QWD kit.

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>>
>>3922249
What it was like? I know rest of processing is same like with other stocks but what are your experiences with remjet removal?
Got some expired Vision2 rolls and want to process them on my own since it isn't worth to send them to lab
>>
File: 250d_0031.jpg (2.1 MB, 2000x1333)
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>>3922264
I developed 2 rolls with the QWD kit.

Gotta rub the remjet away a bit harder.
>>
>>3922172
what the fuck kind of third world shit is this
>>3922169
you can get a cheap macro lens for any camera, get a negative supply basic film carrier for $100, and use a phone as the backlight. all you need then is something to mount the camera on.
also, how many people here really don't own a digital camera and shoot ONLY film? I would be surprised if it was more than 10%.
>>
>>3922293
>how many people here really don't own a digital camera and shoot ONLY film?
This was me when I first started for about a year, I do about 70% film 30% digi nowadays.
>>
>>3922293
> how many people here really don't own a digital camera and shoot ONLY film?

Hello there.
>>
>>3922155
Hw do you get 200 mpx scans from 6x9 with digital?
>>
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>>3918541
I watched Kairo (https://www.imdb.com/title/tt0286751/)
and I loved the cinematography, and the way the movie looked in general. Anyway, I want to find the camera/film used in this movie and fuck around with it. Any ideas as to how/where to look?
>>
>>3922396
stitching multiple images together
>>
>>3922398
Sounds horrible.
>>
>>3922397
Probably a 16mm Arriflex or something similar
>>
Should I get a nice medium format camera or just stick with my k1000
>>
>>3922409
>Should I
Definitely
You can start with 6x4.5 or with inexpensive 6x6
>>
>>3922409
Get a 645 or if youre low on money, a TLR. Youll be shoxked at the step up in quality.
>>
>>3922409
I can recommend Kiev-88 (Киeв-88, «Hasselbladski»). It costs around 280$ and gives you a LOT more opportunities in learning and using middle format, than TLR or 6x4.5 like people above recommended.
>>
>>3922419
This. If you're in Europe, you can get it for ~160$.
>>
>>3922412
>>3922418
>>3922419
I have used a super ikonta I got from a friend however there seemed to be a few issues with the shutter. I was considering mamiya 645 but should I go for the Kiev or something cheaper?
>>
>>3922422
Mamiya is obviously better than Kiev, but ask yourself if you're *sure* you gonna shot it a lot, or you're going to spent a shittone of money to a camera that will dwell on a shelf. If you're not sure, take Kiev.

>>3922420
I'm in former USSR and newer saw Kiev at lower price than 215$ even on a local market. Where the fuck did you saw it for 160?
>>
>>3922264
The prebath stage where you pour in the solvent type stuff, then pour it out and vigorously agitate with water until it runs clear gets ride of most of it (enough to not mess up your developer) but not all of it. After finishing development I have to rub the film down with my thumb and index finger to get the remaining chunks off. I've also taken to leaving the developed film in water for maybe 20 mins just to get off any tiny particles that would show up as speckles in the scan.
>>
>>3922422
I have both, and Kiev is cheaper. You can go for 88 or look for Kiev 60.
>>3922423
Same. It's significantly cheaper in CIS region, and it's possible to buy it here with international shipping for less than 200$. Overall this camera seems to be overpriced on ebay. If this anon will be interested I'll look at how to get it to him from here.
>>
File: img023.jpg (2.01 MB, 3328x2143)
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I've picked film photography recently. This one is shot on Rollei 35 and the film is hp5 plus 400. Developed myself. I used exponometer in the camera and developed it as the manufacturer recommends. What will anon say?
>>
>>3922445
damn, I uploaded it correctly but it is flipped
>>
>>3922424
sounds really annoying. why don't you just shoot a film that you don't have to do that with?
>>
>>3922453
only way to bulk load color/more than half the cost of cinestill with out the halations
>>
>>3922453
Personally me considered that modern photographers are kind of doomed to finally pick cinematic films if they want good colour shots. But, as for me, I let the lab do the thing, happily I live in a city where exist a lab that does this type of a film in native ECN-II chemistry, not just C-41 + rim-jet removing.
>>
>>3922445
Clean your negatives, your scanner, your processing gear, and your camera.
>>
>>3922445
Hello, fellow russian/ukrainian. The english word for экcпoнoмeтp is exposure meter.

>>3922467 This. Amount of dust on your neg is awful. Also, as for HP-5 it seems way too grainy. What developer you have used? Consider switching to Rodinal, Microphen or D-76 for better results.
>>
>>3921768
I had a similar issue with the same camera. Check Youtube, it's a very easy fix.
>>
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>>3922397
Kairo is fucking amazing. I'll look into this for myself. If you find what you're looking for, come back and share it in /fgt/
>>
>>3922422
Get a Bronica ETRS, they dont have a meme tax yet and theyre the best 645 if you dont count contax.
>>
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>three weeks and the lab still hasn't developed my film
>>
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>>3922510
Damn and I thought this new lab I was trying with a 5 day lead time was terrible. Some of these labs in lower manhattan have me feeling spoiled with same day dev + scan.
>>
>>3922514
>same day dev + scan
This is the standard for c-41. Anything longer than that is a joke.
>>
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>>3918541
>>
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>>3922516
I had 4 rolls of 120 and 3 of 35mm, one or two were E-6. They got them to me the following morning since I dropped it off at like 7pm.

This new lab I'm using is kinda trash ngl. Their scanner is also eh.

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>>
>>3922520
Where is that lab? I had the same issues with mine local, I guess you have to request more detailed scans separately.
And for b&w it always takes weeks, wherever I went to do it.
>>
>>3922516
All the best labs in NY and LA need 2/3 days.
>>
>>3922522
I think someone's lying to you. I can get great devs and scans in a day with some of the lesser known labs even if they don't have an impressive portfolio like https://www.picturehousenyc.com/
>>
>>3922521
I just got my shit back from Luster Camera, I dropped it off yesterday. Got my shit back digitally this morning and I picked up my negatives just now. Worth it IMO.
>>
>>3922514
>>3922516
I actually mailed it to what would-be the best lab in the country (Brazil) but those cunts only develop C-41 ONCE a week due to "covid safety"

I considered mailing it to another lab but that one literally has a formulary asking if you consider yourself a leftist and if you don't, they refuse to develop your film

I wish I was joking
>>
>>3922627
>I wish I was joking
That's what happens when you squeeze the people with the actual means of production too much
>>
File: 000478760022.jpg (1.49 MB, 2048x3089)
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Second roll I've had developed, I'm enjoying it.

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>>
>>3922644
Yeah I'm sure it's the people who shoot film in a third world country holding the means of production
>>
>>3922651
You are correct, who else but small overzealous teams would hold the means to process film in a "third world country"?
>>
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>>
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>>3922692
b+w version

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>>
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>>3922693
went to go get some e100 from a shop and they were all out of stock; due to the interest for film has shot up over the pandemic. i wonder??

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>>
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>>3922647

by which I mean I'm new to film photography in general. These are shot with kodak gold and I'm using a pentax ME. I can't escape the feeling that by using an aperture priority camera I'm missing out on the part of the experience, does starting with an aperture priority camera make it harder to shoot with other systems?

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>>
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>>3922695

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>>
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>>3922700

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>>3922701

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>>
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>>3922695
>I'm using a pentax ME
Based, thats the camera I started out with too. Check out the 40mm/2.8 pancake, you can take that little nigga anywhere with that setup. You aren't really missing out by using aperture priority. I've also got a nikon fe that I can go full manual but all I would really be doing is setting my aperture then matching the needle with the shutter speed, pretty much the same thing just slower. To shoot in faux shutter priority why not just adjust the aperture to get the desired speed

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>>
>>3922560
Picture House doesn’t do a same day turn around. Neither does Bleeker Digital or Luster. Thanks for proving my point.
>>
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>>3922713
Like it, very serene.

Yeah I love how portable it is, I'm using the smc 50mm at the moment which is small, but I'll have to look into that 40mm, thanks for the recommendation!

Yeah it's very fast to use, but I find myself shying from the larger apertures since there's no depth of field preview

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>>
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Shot some Cinestill with a Hollywood Black Magic Filter infront of it at the last downshift meetup
>>
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>>3922797
>>
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>>3922798
>>
>>3922797
I think these could use a little splash of magenta as Cinestill often does, it gets a little sickly matrix green at times.
>>
>>3922750
Mouthbreathing retard, I already said Picture House doesn't. Bleeker does 1 day, Luster does same day.
>>
File: StrijpT_001.jpg (2.1 MB, 2000x2500)
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Its shitty weather here...

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Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution150 dpi
Vertical Resolution150 dpi
Image Created2021:08:01 15:21:17
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width2000
Image Height2500
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>>3922813

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Camera-Specific Properties:
Camera SoftwareAdobe Photoshop 21.2 (Windows)
Image-Specific Properties:
Image OrientationTop, Left-Hand
Horizontal Resolution150 dpi
Vertical Resolution150 dpi
Image Created2021:07:24 23:48:48
Color Space InformationsRGB
Image Width2000
Image Height2500
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I somehow keep missing the sprockets when loading film into my OM-1 and ended up shooting an entire blank roll of film during my holidays, what should I do to improve my loading technique ?
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>>3922822
pay attention when you load, take your time if you have to there's no rush
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>>3922825
I've been paying closer attention since then (shot another two rolls since then) but I keep wasting like ... 5-6 shots at the beginning of a roll because it doesn't *seem* like it gets picked up
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>>3922797
why do aussie car meet ups look so soulless compared to japanese ones? its the same jap cars with a few utes sprinkled in. but it just looks so shallow and sad in comparison. wonder why that is
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>>3922822
Whenever you advance make sure the rewind knob rotates
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>>3922812
OP said dev+scan anon. Your anger is clouding your vision. Bleeker does all their scans 2 days a week. Enjoy your budget shop though, I guess, lol.
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>>3922837
If the rewind knob rotates then I'm safe? I'm not the original anon but I also have that problem, I always feel like it didn't latch on correctly
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>>3922467
Will most certainly do!
>>3922473
I used ilfosol 3, as it was on the film package and one available where I live.
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>>3922868
>>3922822
i suppose some cameras it might not, but in the 3 cameras i've used, the rewind knob spun when i advanced.
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>>3922892
that's how I tell it's working but I always end up doing something like this :

>load the film
>cock the shutter
>close the back
>fire the shutter
>cock again
>realise the spindle isn't turning
>open the back again
>load the film better (waste more shots in the process)
>close the back again
>fire the shutter again
>cock again
>finally the spindle is turning
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I'm a Slav poorfag and the only cameras I can afford are these cheap Soviet leica-clones like Fed and Zorkij. Should I even considering doing photography or it's an expensive hobby?

Well, to be quiet honest, I have already lost all interest in this, because there is literally nothing interesting to photograph in the place where I live, except for the old, crumbling communist blocks.
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>>3922904
> Fed and Zorkij. Should I even considering doing photography or it's an expensive hobby?

Absolutely yes. I started photography hobby with a Zorky and was happy shooting it for years. I can consult you a bit in choosing your best soviet RF.

Best models KMZ have done are Зopкий (numberless) and Зopкий-4. Notice that you can buy any, but if you want Зopкий-4 you mandatory need an early series: look for the title being engraved, not printed. Best lense for them is Юпитep-8. You, again, need a specific version: the one that comes with a little lever («пoвoдoк») that helps rotating focusing ring more smoother. Everything is available on Avito or Olx.

When buying a camera. First, detach the lense and see if shutter is okay, don't buy one with completely fucked up curtains. Then try cock and then release a shutter. If it doesn't firing, regardless curtains being visually okay, it means the belt (тecёмкa) is torn apart. It's repairable, think for yourself if you want to buy a camera that need repairing from the stock.

Regardless of what is the shutter condition, rangefinder ALWAYS needs adjusting. On Зopкий-4 in can be done by anyone who's able to hold a screwdriver, google either specifically «Зopкий-4 юcтиpoвкa дaльнoмepa» nor «Maйзeнбepг» for a book version. On Зopкий it will need a specialist. Consider it more of a maintenance rather than repairing.

Good luck, have fun.
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>>3922907
*Notice that you can buy any Зopкий

Sorry, forgot the word.
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>>3922897
if you realize the rewind wheel isn't turning, why don't you rewind the film back into the canister a bit before re-opening the back, that way you don't waste film.
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>>3922897
buy a 10 dollar point an shoot and see if you're just retarded or if it's the camera. and yeah make sure you do this >>3922913 to save film
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>>3922913
I ... didn't think of that, that's fucking genius (I'm retarded), I'll try next time. thanks so much !!!

>>3922918
I have an olympus 35rc, but I still have to thread the film into the ... barrel ? (english is not my mother tongue) so I don't really see how that would change anything, do you mean something like a mju or ?
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>>3922904
If you can get a Fed 2 or a Zorki (without number, retroactively called Zorki 1 on the Internet) with a working shutter and a lens that isn't moulded over such as Industar or Jupiter, and film isn't exorbitantly expensive to use compared to shitty digital which is often available for like 20€, you'll be off to a good start. Your camera will support features crucial to the beginner such as accurate focusing, multiple shutter speeds, and settable aperture. Prefer Fed-2 bodies from before the 1970s, but any that works in shutter and viewfinder and doesn't have missing takeup spool is generally good. Sometimes Zorki is also sold with takeup spool missing, avoid these unless the camera is in excellent condition -- you have to buy takeup spool from elsewhere.

Good lenses for Fed 2 are Jupiter-8, Jupiter-3, and Industar-61 L/D. All-around best ordinary lens is Jupiter-8, the -3 variant is spiffy but feels like an eggshell in use, perhaps not best beginner lens, also expensive. Industar-61 L/D is very sharp, sharper than Jupiter, but has vertigo-inducing swirly bokeh and lacks prestige very badly. Don't pay more than 20€ for a I61.

Good lenses for Zorki are Jupiter-3 and Industar-22 (collapsible, with rangefinder coupling, generally comes with camera body). You can use the same lenses as for a Fed 2, but they will intrude into the rangefinder window and take a bit out of the RF spot.

As for interest, every photographer must either discover or create interest. Photography is art of expression, where documentary photographers discover an interesting composition and creative photographers make one up. Neither has great success from day 1, both work to get good.
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>>3922943
> Good lenses for Zorki are Jupiter-3 and Industar-22

That >>3922907 guy writing. I generally agree that's Jupiter-3 is better than Jupiter-8, it's not a rocket science. But topic starter clearly stated that he's a poorfag, I doubt he can afford Ю-3.

Also, what makes you suggest FED-2? I never tried to read about FED model line, I'm kind of KMZ specialist.
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>>3922946
My experience with imported Soviet goods stored in someone's attic for a long time is that any Fed or Zorki camera with a slow shutter speed mechanism will have a fucked shutter speed selector, and the slow speeds won't work. The selector problem is so severe that it renders cameras practically unusable. A camera without that mechanism will have a reasonable selector and one fewer part that may or may not have been constructed of cheese-grade brass gears.

And yes, Jupiter-3 is 100€ in Europe after CLA. I did mention it was expensive. But sometimes there's a bargain, person asking question should not disregard J-3 if it shows up in attic of someone else's dead grandpa.
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>>3922950
Yeah, that's a big problem indeed. From what I heard from reach fags, it's a problem even with early Leicas with external slow speed wheel.

But, strangely, I never encountered a Zorki-4 with this problem. There's either everything is fine nor shutter fucked up completely. Trust me, I've seen many and own three right now. My theory is that it's a too late camera where slow speeds mechanism is built enough organic to other parts, or/and they just learnt over the years how do done it properly.

Funnily enough, I'm now shooting with VERY late (end of 1980s decade) soviet camera, Kiev-88… where slow speeds mechanism is broken, while everything else working fine. I guess, it's just since it's copied from Hassel 1600F so much they even copied 20 years old construction of slow speeds mechanism.

What to Jupiter-3, it's a great lense, but it costs 10K roubles indeed. I never managed to buy it even tho numberless Zorky was my main camera for five years and I got Jupiter-9 (2/85) and Jupiter-11 (4/135). I've ascended to a SRL world and fine with it.
>>
My former main camera + gear.
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>>3922951
It can also be a problem of export model, selected at factory to only embarrass during next five year plan. So shutter fucks off first on typical iron curtain bloc model.

My Kiev 88 is a piece of shit. It works well under special circumstances, such as shutter speed being 1/60 or shorter and camera being held exactly level. Gears of film backs for loading film are fucked, must wind to "1" mark in window by mounting back on camera and winding forward enough times. However, I hear Hasselblad 1600F of similar age is so fucked that literally nobody uses them at all.
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>>3922956
You just got to keep buying Kievs before you obtain a right one. I bought this one from second attempt, first one was fucked up beyond any recognition and OH I regret buying it, but second works well except for slow shutter speeds out of stock and I'm really happy to posses this camera.
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>>3922958
That's not a lie. My Kiev 80 has two working backs and some working shutter speeds as well. Sadly the Vega standard lens has gummed-up aperture that won't close for exposure, so between the 88 and 80 I have a Kiev 80 that's somewhat usable with the 88's Arsat standard lens.

One thing about Kievs I've noticed is that they smell. Like the factory had been boiling cabbage in the parts storage. Or the grease were made in a canned goulash factory.
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>>3918541
>>3918594
nice
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>>3923038
thanks!
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anons help me choose between foma 100, 200 or 400. I may or may not develope it myself. It looks like 400 is the worst and 200 got the T-grain. What do y’all think?
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What's everyone's favorite travel camera? Looking for something to bring with to Europe for a few months
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>>3923160
Canon AE-1P. Easy, cheap and has an auto setting. Oldest model still newer than the AE-1 or A-1. And produced for far longer so the last models are way newer and less prone to issues. Easier to use then the New F-1 "pro" camera. Not to be confused with the old F-1 or F-1n. AE-1P avoids the naming errors and bullshit and just gives you what you need. Alternately you could get the Olympus OM-1. Nikon is okay too, I don't know what model exactly would be the AE-1P competitor.

Photo related, missed focus cause I rushed to get the surfer in the pose but still, phenomenal little camera.

[EXIF data available. Click here to show/hide.]
Camera-Specific Properties:
Equipment MakeNORITSU KOKI
Camera ModelEZ Controller
Camera SoftwareAdobe Lightroom 4.3 (Windows)
Image-Specific Properties:
Horizontal Resolution240 dpi
Vertical Resolution240 dpi
Image Created2021:08:02 14:24:43
Color Space InformationsRGB
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>>3923160
you're going to need to be more specific with what you want to shoot. but usually you only get to pick two between image quality, weight/bulk, and price.
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>>3923163
Yeah, I guess I'm looking specifically for compactness, either in 35mm or 120. At first I was looking at 120 folders but the Pen F seems really interesting as well.
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>>3923163
>>3923166
I feel like I'm way more likely to actually shoot if I can carry a camera in my pocket
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>>3923166
>Pen F
then go digital
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>>3923167
You'll be more likely to actually shoot if you have a camera around your neck or on your shoulder. You have this absurd mental image of yourself wearing this perfect /fa/-tier outfit, drinking an espresso while you lean on a counter with one elbow in a cafe. A small Roman child stops to play in the fountain. You smile and pull out a fashionable old camera, the kind your grandparents would have taken through Europe, and snap a perfect Bresson-tier masterpiece. You nod and smile at an older gentleman seated at a table near you and put the camera back in your pocket. Which big-titted dame will you be fucking today?

Ah, the sprezzatura lifestyle. It's a burden worth bearing.
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>>3923170
I think that's your fantasy, stop projecting.
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>>3923170
is this bait? shut the fuck up.
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>>3923171
>>3923174
Fuck off retards. It's not bait, the poncey little faggot asking which pocket camera to bring on his trip to Europe is bait.
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>>3923175
how is "recommend me a compact travel camera here is what I am interested in" bait you fucking buffoon?

>>3923168
What do you mean by this?
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>>3923170
Lel moviescript/10
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>>3923181
>how is "recommend me a compact travel camera here is what I am interested in" bait you fucking buffoon?

Because, barring any gigantic autofocus 90's monstrosity, literally any fucking film camera is both going to be compact enough and light enough for travel. You just want someone to justify some faggy purchase of a 35ti or contax for you.
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>>3923170
hahahah this is so fucking accurate. this is the larp that pocket camera fags secretly want.
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>>3923166
>I'm looking specifically for compactness
The only 35mm cameras that are distinctly a notch above anything else in compactness and pocketability, are the Minox 35 and the Contax T (the first model). And part of it is that they fold flat and they're pretty much the size of a pack of cigarettes when folded.
The Contax has rf focusing and a bit better lens, but is much more expensive, so for general snapshitting the Minox is more than enough.
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>>3923192
let's be honest, the rollei 35 is pretty small, too.

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>>3923194
True, but because the lens sticks ou (and the other controls), it catches onto things and doesn't slip as easily and comfortably into pockets.
That said, it feels more substantial compared to the other two plastic cameras. But I find the light weight of the plastic Minox 35 to be a benefit really, for that type of camera.
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>>3923160
Find a cheap p&s at a thrift store, then make sure it works with a couple test rolls. If you can afford it an olympus xa would be good price/performance wise. I would personally travel with a compact/midsize slr like olympus om-2 or nikon fm-2.
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>>3923192
the XA is good too.
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I just bought a cheap electronic point and shoot film camera and ColorPlus film and I am headed for the Alps. This is my first film camera and I'd really like to see how it goes to test if I should shoot more film in the future and maybe even get a body for my old EF lenses.

What other film stocks would you recommend for a place like pic related? I would like to experiment with a few.
I think I would just shoot daylight landscapes/portraits/candids/snapshits.

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Equipment MakeSAMSUNG
Camera ModelGT-I9500
Image-Specific Properties:
Exposure Time1/1014 sec
Exposure Time1/1014 sec
F-Numberf/2.2
ISO Speed Rating3276800
Focal Length4.20 mm
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>>3923206
Slide film for sure, specifically velvia.
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>>3923156
Fomapan is genarally shit, especially for portraits, as it makes skin look greyish like an alien. Only use I can see for it is architecture photography. In that case 100 seems most suitable. For everything else consider using Ilford line.
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>>3923181
>how is "recommend me a compact travel camera here is what I am interested in" bait you fucking buffoon?
"I feel like I'm more likely to shoot" means he's a little retard who wants to be a film camera owner for his ego-trip to "Europe". To contrast with an actual photographer who proceeds with premeditated intent rather than "likelihood to act on a whim".
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TELL ME HOW TO GET GOOD FUCKING QUALITY OUT OF THE LIBVPX ENCODER SO I CAN SHOW YOU MY TIME LAPSES
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>>3923246
what
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>>3923248
i made some timelapses but need to get their filesize down; the 4k 20 second video is fucking 70MB
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>>3923250
that's really not bad for a video.
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>>3923250
you wanted the video general, right?
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My friend sent his rolls last week and got the images back today

I'm bordering on 4 weeks and still nothing

Did they fucking lose my rolls
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>>3923254
call them up sperg
why do people have such anxiety about just picking up a phone and making a quick call
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>>3923254
That's your punishment for being a frogposter.
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>>3923257
I did multiple times and every time they say "next week they will be ready"

If I don't get the images this week I'll call out their bullshit though
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>>3923259
I mean, they're just going to say "yeah we lost them, don't worry about the fifteen bucks."
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>>3923253
nigga, for real





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