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File: albert.jpg (858 KB, 1177x1080)
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Climbing General #19

A place to talk about climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).

Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.

Useful Info:
https://pastebin.com/dhTMzCqJ

Weather is finally cooling off.
off-belay >>2155031

https://youtu.be/0ljIyEOBxrA
>>
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Great way to start the thread, Stefano Ghisolfi just sent Bibliographie 9c in Céüse, holy fuck
>>
>>2195875
It's more like a 9b, silence is the only 9c
>>
Going to do my first trad lead this weekend, wish me luck brothers.
>>
>>2195879
he actually just posted on instagram

https://www.instagram.com/p/CTCR5t9siaC/

> I know I can climb a 9c, but for a route to be that grade it needs to be much harder than the existing 9b+s, and Bibliographie for me isn't.

So yeah, Silence is for now the only 9c until someone sends that beast again and confirms the grade
>>
>>2195932
Lmao, so he's already downgrading it without actually proposing a grade, the balls of Stefano

>This doesn't mean I want to belittle the performance of anyone, neither Alex's or mine, it is still an incredible achievement (especially the first ascent that includes many more hard mental and physical aspects) but I just wanted to be honest about what I felt during the whole process on Bibliographie

I guess it's 'just' a 9b+ then
>>
>>2195988
People are too precious about grades, as long as you know vuagly how hard it is its good
>>
>>2195927
Enjoy the rush
>>
Led a 5.5 last week for my first time, and just led a 5.9 yesterday and I wasn't terrified this time. The moves all felt easy I was just flowing. 5.10a is next up.
>>
>>2196019
I would tend to agree that grades usually don't matter - just enjoy what you climb - but when you're actually pushing the limit of the sports, I'd argue it does matter more.
>>
>>2195866
gonna ask this question again since i'm curious
what grade did you start climbing at?
what grade are you at now?
indoor or outdoor? how long did it take?
>>
>>2196274
Started with my max at V3 indoor and 5.6 outdoor My first ever climb was an outdoor sport route but bouldering is a lot easier to get into, and the majority of my climbing.

Now I'm at about V6/7 indoor and V3 outdoor. Haven't done any indoor sport climbing but just did 5.9 as my hardest lead. In a little under a year I think I started last November.
>>
>>2196280
>V3 outdoor
Nice job man. You could do significantly harder sport leads without much more practice
>>
>>2195988
megos in literal fucking shambles
>>
If I want to do a big wall will I have to learn trad? I already want to try out trad climbing, but one of my goals is doing a big wall and this would motivate me to buy a rack with the upcoming sale
>>
>>2196512
Yes.
There is no other way to get that much distance without being a traddy daddy.
>>
I went top rope soloing last night, my setup was a grigri with a klemheist knot on the brake line. It worked but it was kind of a pain in the arse moving the knot. Probably going to have to get a microtraxion or something like that going forward.
>>
>>2195875
Has a four finger positive hold to launch off of

Rates it 9b....
>>
>>2196512
not only will you have to learn gear placements, but you will need to learn a lot of systems to efficiently get yourself up the wall. It is a long process but very doable. Enjoy the process! Show us your first rack!!!! Where will you be practicing?
>>
>>2196274
>V2/5.7
>V5/5.11
started indoor 7 years ago and climbed very casually. been taking it more seriously in the last 2 years and going outdoors a lot more.
>>
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>>2197128
REI is having their labor day sale so I think this is as good of time as any to buy a trad rack. BD C4s are on sale so I'm getting from 0.4-3, a set of nuts, and some carabiners. I'm rationalizing it by saying I wanted a PS5 and this is the same cost and its for a sport so its better for me haha. I'll probably be practicing at Broughton Bluff, Madrone Wall, and Carver Boulders (they have trad routes) in the Portland area. Once I get a little more experience I'll probably go down to Smith Rock
>>
>>2196502
Got shutdown on a 5.10b yesterday, I think it was because I didn't warm up first but I'll totally send it next time
>>
>>2197425
Nice, enjoy the rack and make sure to USE IT!! the only acceptable time to show up with shiny new gear is your first day or just buying it haha. If you run out of funds it’s acceptable to buy cams, nuts or biners used. Check the slings on the cams, usually they are good but if they’re old and tatty get em reslung. Have you led anything yet?

Currently sportin at Mt Charleston NV, gonna get out to red rock tmw :D
>>
How do I make the transition from indoor to outdoor bouldering? I'm especially worried as I don't have any friends to boulder with, so falling is extra scary
>>
>>2197443
Get a pad
Put it under where you will fall
Go wild
Have a phone to call for help if you snap an ankle
>>
>>2196274
Start at? I mean, day 1 I could do V1s I think. I peaked with V4s indoors, 5.11bs indoors then I got a muscle imbalance I had to correct by going back to lifting for awhile.

I'm just getting back into climbing, and can still flash V3s indoors, but V4s take projecting.

Outdoors the highest I climbed was 5.9 but I only top roped outdoors twice.
>>
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>>2197437
>pic last year at Smith

I've just recently started leading so far I've done a 5.6 and a 5.9. I have mainly bouldered because no rope, but my buddy with a rope showed me how to belay last week and so I have been getting more experience on a wall. This has all been outdoor climbing btw. I wanna go out to Red Rock when it starts getting cold up here it's only $38 for a round trip flight to Vegas!
>>
>>2197444
checked, also try boulders with level landings to start and aim for your pad if you gotta bail. Outdoor problems are harder than the gym whatever grade you can do in a gym most likely cut it in half for outdoor boulders
>>
>>2196274
start 5.9 gym, 5.7 sport, 5.6 trad
no 5.11 gym, 5.10 sport, 5.9 trad
3 years
>>
>>2197454
Nice homie. Lmk when you are in Vegas I’ll go up some stuff with ya, plenty good beginner stuff to get real high on. We can use my rack so you can save on baggage haha
>>
>Multiple people in this thread climbing at Red Rocks
Good shit, I want to go there this year, might need to sync up
>>
>>2197639
I be out here stuntin
>>
>>2196274
5.3, 5.6, outdoors, three months, yes I'm out of shape.
>>
>>2196597
What kind of climb was it?
>>
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>>2196080
Thanks bro, pic related me about to enjoy the rush.
>>
>>2198254
An easy crack/flake
>>
>>2195866
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mtPy5tOh5bc
>>
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>>2198315
>fuckin' noob
>>
>>2198186
At least you're outside. Plus 3 months isn't much with this sport, it takes about 6 just to get your finger tendons decent
>>
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*cough cough*
>>
Did my first onsight today felt pretty good. The climb wasn't hard I think it was 5.6 but felt cool to do it. My friend had to leave a locker at the crag because rope was too short to make it to the anchors and he needed to get back down
>>
>>2199096
Go back and get it. And learn how to do a biner block
>>
>>2199141
Can you link a video?
>>
Once my divorce is finalized or canceled I'm going to buy everything I need to top rope solo because I'm sick of not being able to climb anymore. 5 years of major depression and an unsupportive wife is a real drag bros.
>>
>>2199719
I'm well acquainted with this feel. Good plan and hang in there.
>>
>>2199719
you might also try finding a partner on mountainproject. they have a partner finding app and forums for your area.
>>
>>2199719
Take your ex-wife climbing.
Have an accident.
Thank me later anon-kun
>>
>>2199864
Do they have a climbing gf section
>>
>>2199888
based af
>>
>>2200007
it's the best place to find your perfect trad wife
>>
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Toprope Anchors on Balls Out - 5.11c
Ethan Allen Park, Burlington, VT
>>
>>2198186
I have similar results dont be demotivated
>>
>>2200078
Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it kinda unsafe to weight those slings with anything but a static load. Like if somehow you took a fall on TR there is more risk for the slings to fail?
>>
>>2200189
static cordelette is typically used for anchors. the rope will take most of the dynamic load. also, there's not much force in a TR fall.
>>
>>2200078
Looks like a thin rig til you get to that big ol crack. Then an off width extravaganza. Lead it yet?
>>
>>2200007
Sigh, climbing girls are even more pathetic than gamer girls, anon.
>>
>>2200400
Wrong at least they go outside unlike those fat fuck gaymars.
>>
>>2200400
they can grip you with their pussies though
It's worth it.
>>
>>2198889
Looks gnarly where’s this at? TR soloing?

Did some laps on the Fox for breakfast the other morning now hittin the gym. The season is upon us!!!! Send it!!!
>>
why are most people you meet in bouldering gyms meathead gym bros who dont do any kind of actual mountain activity?
>>
>>2200669
where do you live?
at my gym its mostly nebbish asians who dont do any kind of actual mountain activity
>>
>>2200728
austria
>>
>>2200606
No, I was pulling up my 2nd (almost literally with a 4-1. He had a COVID gut and was absolutely destroyed. Took 30m to finish the last 30ft at least on a 210ft route)
>>
>>2200464
>going outside is an accomplishment
OK
>>
>>2200732
gea holt in die knottn aum, no ischs worm genua
>>
>>2200743
for modern women it depresdingly is
>>
>>2200189
Sounds like you have never used an anchor in your life DESU
>>
>>2200189
You're wrong, although if you were directly tied in with it and took a factor 2 that would be dangerous
>>
>>2200131
Thanks, yeah I just focus on getting stronger.
>>
>>2198186
Out of curiosity, where at? At the (modern sporty) crags I've been to 5.7 is the easiest thing there and they're basically jug ladders that I imagine anyone healthy person could handle if they don't get too scared. Are you at an old school crag or doing trad?
>>
>>2200855
Focus on technique first
>>
>>2200078
Why are you using two biners at your masterpoint?
>>
>>2200808
Never over an edge like that, so that's why I asked desu ka.
>>
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>>2197128
My rack came in stoppers from 4-13 and cams from .4-3
>>
>>2201110
Oooooh shit got a route picked out to test if they work or not?
>>
>>2201158
Thats how I'm feeling when I'm walking with them on the harness lol.

I'm gonna try a route called the classic crack at Broughton bluff. I can make it to the anchors from a nearby sport route. My plan is to be on two ropes one TR and one leading and practice gear placement and taking falls on protection. I don't have any aid ladders but I hear thats a good low risk way of practicing placements.
>>
>>2200929
not the Initial guy but here in europe every beginner I know had troubles with uiaa 4+ which is around 5.6 or at least at 5-(5.7). On Real Rock at least, Gym grades are bullshit amyways.
>>
>>2201158
>>2201177
Kek I hate that feeling, being the worst climber but with spanking new gear.
>>
>>2200929
I'm in Joshua Tree and if you're talking about something like pic related then yeah I can do that but I would say that's about a 5.5(it's listed as v-easy), in contrast there are two problems on asteroid boulder listed as 5.6 and 5.7 that I can barely even get on, they are E and F on this pic:
>https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/106045764_large_1558466946.jpg

>>2200933
I think I have a pretty good grasp of basic techniques but a lot of them I'm not strong enough for, like a lie back or some mantels or even hanging on to a small crimp.
>>
>>2200606
Mmmmm fucc that crack looks so good. We just get rough granite up here in canuckistan
>>2200728
Same. I quit the gym that was like this. Middle of suburbia with a bunch of gymbies, too much cringe
>>
>>2200669
>>2200728
It depends on the gym, the bouldering gyms near me is full of zoomer uni students and related faggots who don't own a harness but the old school gym is full of crusty old bastards on lead walls mainly training for trad. Needless to say I mainly visit the latter.
>>
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>>2201361
I'm just gonna wear it all on my harness and go bouldering haha
>>
>>2201513
>Salivating over a really short crack in soft sandstone
Yikes
>>
>>2201458
Ah okay, yeah that's an old school area built by boulderers and hardasses. Go up to Norcal or Red Rocks and I bet you'll be screaming up 5.7 sport
>>
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I'm getting close to doing my first indoor 6c, the strength is there I just need to nail the sequence/techniques. There's a bit where you go from layback to squared up that I kept popping off but I know where I was going wrong.
>>
Just went bouldering for the first time in my life and it was major fun, any recs on how to get better or is just climbing as often as I can enough for now.
>>
>>2201686
The Fox is not short and the sandstone is not soft. Go outside.
>>
>>2201937
If it was your very first time, the mantra is just to climb some more and have fun.
>>
>>2201107
In that situation, not extending your master point over the edge is actually dangerous. The danger of an edge comes from your line moving over it and getting cut.
>>
>>2201039
Redundancy for top roping. They should orient the gates to be opposed though.
>>
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>>2201989
Just did
>>
>>2195866
uh, bros?
just started climbing about a month ago and i recently started going much more straight arm and pushing myself harder, but now when i climb there's an awful pain in the top area of my wrist. doesn't feel quite like muscle soreness. i feel like it might be a tendon issue but there's no way i fucked a tendon already, right? how do i find out what's wrong?
>>
>>2202456
>just started climbing about a month ago
Take a break. It sucks, I know it does, we all know it sucks, but that's the cure. Muscles build faster than tendon strength and its easier to strain a tendon than you might think.
>>
>>2202293
Nice whatd ya get on
>>
>>2202697
New area for me. Moundy slopey stuff. My shoulder hurts from all the isometrics.
>>
>>2202293
you gotta start turning these pics anon
>>
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Did my first multi-pitch today, wasn't a very hard route but was good enough for my second trad climb.
>>
Anybody else like to bring a cooler and some beers to the crag? I see people smoking weed all the time but that just makes me paranoid.
>>
>>2202853
No stay at home if you want to get blasted, that goes for the smokers too.
>>
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>>2202859
John Sherman is turning over in his grave right now
>>
>>2202863
WTF is he doing in a grave?
>>
>>2202901
Just chilling lol
>>
>>2202901
Calling you a hangdog
>>
>>2202456
hoopersbeta.com is good enough to be a climber's bible for any pain/injury concerns. Don't be thrown by the occasionally clickbaity thumbnails. Poke around and you'll probably find some stuff that applies to you.
>>
>>2202853
I don't usually go to crags where bringing a cooler would be easy or even possible, but having one in the car is nice as fuck.
>>
>>2202853
...surely you mean summit beers you climb 10 pitches with
>>
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>>2203011
I bring pic related and its been real nice to have cold drinks and snacks. Its also like a 5 minute hike to the crag so not hard to carry in
>>
I need to drive over an hour to get to my two bouldering spots. As an alternative I figured I could climb trees. Does anyone else do this? There must be some crossover but will climbing lots of trees improve my bouldering?
>>
>>2203227
No not really
>>
Im mildly obsessed with this guy's channel, he's constantly getting but blasted over people saying his climbs are over rated
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RajFLqOmUWs
>>
GYMBIES PLS GO FROM THIS THREAD THANK YOU
>>
>>2203575
But all the hot girls are in the gym
>8r8hh
Problematic captcha
>>
>>2203488
>https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RajFLqOmUWs
That was actually a V2 though
>>
>>2203622
Either he's flagrantly lying, delusional, or his gym is padding grades to the moon
>>
>>2203488
no way that was a v7 half the holes are fucking stepping stones this dudes not climbing hes fucking walking if this was a v7 im climbing 15's on the daily ez
>>
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How would yall go about setting up an anchor here for top rope. I'm climbing without a spotter and want to try out TR solo. I'm thinking loop the rope a couple times around the "∩__∩" feature, make a figure 8 on a bight with the tail, use a locker and clip back into it for redundancy.
>>
>>2203674
That sounds alright or you could just sling some webbing around it. This looks pretty tough, how thin are those edges?
>>
>>2203227
Move to the boulders.
>>
>>2203746
Its not too bad the crimps are incut and some of the mortar has eroded leaving some nice pockets. No one climbs on this though so figuring out the beta without obvious chalky holds has been pretty fun. I think its rated V1
>>
Hi anons, I built a 4x8 climbing wall but I’m seeing other walls that lean in a bit.

As a beginner who has never climbed before would climbing on a slight lean (maybe 10 degrees?) be a good option?

Or should I keep slab climbing?
>>
>>2203865
A short vertical wall will get real boring real fast. You basically need to have some steepness, probably more than 10 degrees, if you want to have worthwhile problems using actual handholds. And I'm someone who loves slab climbing and sucks shit at steeps, but a 8' vertical wall is pointless
>>
>>2203873
this. if possible have some variety too, though.
>>
>>2203873
>>2203880

Thanks anons, this kind of confirms how I was feeling about modifying my little wall.

Now I feel more confident that the time making the modification will be well spent
>>
Just tried my first highball on Saturday. How the fuck do you get over the fear of being 20ft in the air with a single pad under you? Just keep doing it?
>>
>>2204147
Having good spotters helps a lot
>>
>>2204147
You get on a fucking sport route you non climber
>>
>>2204318
I rather whip on a wire than boulder with one shitty pad
>>
>>2203674
You fuck off throw your pad away and go climb some actual routes u dum bitch
>>
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>>2204334
I flash your projects
>>
>>2204356
My aprotches are harder than your projects
>>
>>2204365
You no-good, back clipping, beta spraying, music playing, dogbone pulling, crag dog bringing, rope behind your feet gumby. You could never handle my approach, come back in 10 years.
>>
>>2204147
You're essentially free soloing at that point and I doubt any gets over the fear they just learn how to control it which makes them appear calm.
>>
>>2204409
good pasta potential
>>
>>2204147
You can boulder on the beach at 20ft and it's not even dangerous.
>>
Anyone else in WNC?
I top roped at melrose, pilot mtn, and rumbling bald over the summer
Also boulder at RB 1-2 times a month
>>
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climbed my first trad lead a couple of days ago. went up this crack at the feathers. so full of choss I could barely place any gear.

>>2202852
looks epic.
>>
>>2204845
Not idea where you are, but it looks like chossy tuft
>>
>>2204845
Any fist jams there? Looks quite nice despite the choss.
>>
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>>2204845
It's glen coe, always looks wild
>>
How do I climb scary shit? Just get way better??

I climbed at pinnacles (pic related) and bailed on the second clip of wet kiss 5.9 because I would have decked if I fell while mantling up. How do other people do that? They just ignore the fear and don’t fall?
>>
>>2205067
Get a belayer you can trust.
>>
Any skin care tips? I find that I'm tearing the shit out of my fingertips but it isn't like they're getting any stronger.
>>
>>2205067
Practice similar mantels until you can do them in your sleep. That climb is laughing at you now.
>>
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>>2204851
it's basalt. Frenchman Coulee, WA. pretty nice spot and there's basically endless climbing in the nearby gorge.

>>2204911
I didn't try it because the face was so featured, but you probably could. crack is 3-4 in all the way up.
>>
>>2205226
I've only heard people call that place "Vantage". About 7h from here
>>
Where should I go climbing this weekend near LA with all the forests closed and the desert too hot?
>>
>>2205067
Generally, just by practicing falling in a safe environment (e.g. the gym).

And for your specific route, I'm saying this after shitting on the boulderers above, but bouldering. My mantels were much improved after lots of boulder top outs.
>>
>>2205252
Somewhere that wont catch fire while you're there.
>>
>>2205252
Did they close Idyllwild too?
>>
>>2205067
Pinnacles is kinda scary sometimes lol

Way I see it though it's just a matter of exposure. Do the thing and get away with it a bunch and it won't be so scary the next time. If you're scared shitless though it won't help, you want to do things that are kinda scary but not horrifying and get used to it. So it might be worth picking lower grades or more generously bolted climbs and get some reps there. With sport climbing, most routes won't have seriously dangerous falls, and if they do it's on easy portions. The more familiar with rock you are, the less scary those easy portions will be
>>
>>2205368
Yep. Life is bad out here right now.
Probably just a stoney point weekend for me
>>
Anyone experience with La Sportiva Mythos shoes? I need a new pair that's comfortable to fuck around in on easy sportclimbs, but I'm el cheapo and leaning towards just getting Tarantulas because I don't care about the performance (I only climb like 6a-6b)
>>
>>2205643
They're fine shoes. Try both on and get the one that fits you best. Not worth being a cheapass on shoes if one fits great and the other doesn't
>>
>>2205643
Moccs
>>
>>2205245
yeah I hear that a lot. the surrounding area is Vantage, but the specific climbing area is Frenchman Coulee. both work just fine.
>>
>>2201893
Ok I went back to the route got past the bit I was stuck on after a few attempts, got almost to the top where it was pinches all the way and my arms pumped the fuck out to the point where I could barely hold a water bottle when i got down. Next session I've definitely got it though.
>>
>>2205978
Godspeed anon-kun
also >post route
>>
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Got my first 5.10b today, TR and wasn't able to send it cleanly but made it to the anchors. I'll send it clean next time though. Pic is pulled from Mountain Project but thats the route
>>
>>2206496
TR is imaginary world where anything goes, you’re gonna lead it next time right?
>>
>>2206496
Is the crux after the fifth bolt? It looks kind of blank there.
>>
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>>2195866
rate my view
>>
>>2206778
whoa
>>
>>2206715
Most definitely I got the route downloaded in my head now

>>2206776
I think the crux is in-between the 4th and 5th bolt at least I remember that being the hardest for me. After that it eases up, but from the 2nd to the 5th its pretty sustained difficult. Its hard to tell from the angle but there is a big arete on the left you can follow up to that hole where the 6th bolt is.
>>
I actually got me a >>2200007
>climbing gf
and turned her into my >>2200051
>trad wife
some time ago, and it's all fun and games, but there's one issue: If your main climbing partner is also your wife and she becomes pregnant, you suddenly lost your main climbing partner.
So with that, childbirth, the first, hard year and corona, I've been out of the loop for like 2 years.
Wanted to go climbing today with some friends, but the kid got some fever, so I wouldn't want to leave the two home alone, so I cancelled that trip.
But while packing, I went through all my stuff and I realized I probably should replace my dynema slings, they're getting a tad old.
what's the current, hot, meme sling to get? Still Mammuts 8mm thingies or is there something else?
Oh, and I displaced a few biners so I might wanna get 3 or 4. I'm quite fond of the Wild Country Helium, used to be the most advance biner some years ago.
Again, what's the current, hot, meme binger to get?
>>
>>2206969
All things being equal I buy DMM because they do all their manufacturing in the UK but that's probably not a factor if you're not a bong.
>>
>>2206969
Mammut BD or metolius, trango? I’ve seen people use em all and they’re all the same to me
>>
>>2206969
At least u got to fuck a preggo
>current, hot, meme binger
Camp biners (Nano/Photon/Dyon)
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Anyone else afraid of heights that wants to get into climbing?
Trying to legit overcome the fear, not sure really how to start.
I have all the gear necessary to do repelling and am fairly well read on various things like anchors, knots, and techniques
I honestly get scared watching climbing videos, imagining myself isolated on a giant wall.
This is something I truly want to get passed
There is a climbing gym nearby, should I just start indoors to build confidence?
>>
>>2195866
I think my gym is pumping up the grades a lot to make people feel better. How can I tell what the actual grades of the climbs are?
>>
>>2207470
climb on a moonboard/kilterboard or outdoors
>>
How good do you have to be to free solo with a full trad rack?
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>>2207498
This t. "6b" indoor climber that can't even get off the ground on a system board
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>>2207452
All that information you have on anchors, knots, and technique won't even matter if you can't think straight on the wall. I don't think it matters where you start as long as you start somewhere. I started outside on easy routes, then spent a lot of time indoor bouldering, and now have been doing a lot more sport climbing and just got my first trad rack. I didn't have a fear of heights, but I did of equipment failure until I learned that all climbing gear is super engineered and unless you are climbing trad you most likely wont ever hit the deck. Muscles grow faster than tendons get strong so don't overdo it.

>pic is view from about 60ft up
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>>2207588
looks like the gorge, what route is this?
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>>2207452
I myself have annoying fear that wasn't there when I was younger so I just push it gradually and make sure of my abilities, and it's getting better.
I knew a guy who fell and broke his elbow on a mountain trail and now he can't even climb a steep hill, he just breaks down and gets complete undone.
So maybe concentrate on the fear by putting yourself up somewhere high and simply experiencing it and gradually desensitize yourself to it as well as learn to control it and put it in perspective. If you try something technical the fear will cloud your thinking.
>>
Help.

I'm living in my car and have an interest in doing bouldering. I know a lot of climbers live out of vans. Is the somewhere that has a good climbing community I can travel to and live around? Im young, no responsibilities, and have a few thousand saved up
>>
>>2207609
The warmup at Viento wall
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>>2207752
Bishops probably a good spot especially if you’re into bouldering
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>>2207859
Bishop will chew anons fingers off if they only have an interest in bouldering and never actually tried it
>>
I have fat stubby hands so I tried a fist jam and it was beautiful. Now I want to get into trad climbing but the variation in different protective gear is confusing. Is there a benchmark basic set to get when you're starting out which will set you on your way and get you up some basic climbs?
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Got my first 5.7 boulder today, woo hoo!(the one in the middle) I was barely able to get on it a month ago. It was vertical with about three moves on thin but solid edges(I had to downclimb it too). I got almost to the top on the one to the right but the last move was pretty committed with a balancy top out and I didn't have a spotter. I got halfway up the one on the left but then I couldn't find anything to crank up on. Sorry to be such a noob but it's a milestone for me.

>>2207752
Come to Joshua Tree, lots of climbers and a lifetime supply of boulders. We could spot each other while we flail away on V-easys
>>
>>2207452
Gym toprope is the easiest way to expose yourself to the feeling of being on a wall. Try to climb to a point of mild discomfort, then fall (on toprope, this fall will be trivial, you can even ask for tension and then lean back if you want). Hang on your rope, look around, take in the feeling of being up there while being safe on your rope. Continue if you can or go back down and try again. If you do something enough times without getting hurt or terrified, you'll get over the fear.
Ideally you have a partner you're friendly with that you can be honest with about your fear training.
>>
>>2208157
>Basically a sheer edge
>Call it 5.7
J. Tree is something else. Congrats
>>
>>2207925
Depends on the climbs your doing and the rock, for me a set of cams and double set of nuts has been working fine without being retardedly expensive.
>>
>>2207859
>>2208157
how is living in cali? im from the midwest so im a bit worried about cost of living around these sites. How much do you guys spend a month, whats it like?
>>
>>2208159
Thanks

>>2208444
Cost of living is insane, although rents are much lower in JT, gas and everything else is going through the roof. There's actually no good reason to come here other than the incredible natural beauty at this point, sad to say...having said that this is the homeless capital of the world and they just keep coming since there is free food and services around and law enforcement just looks the other way. One night late I was driving around town and someone had actually parked a bus diagonally across one of the residential streets and was asleep for the night, so it may be a great place to be a car camper here for all I know, although like I said the gas is in the mid $4 range.
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>>2206989
>DMM
would have been my first idea anyways. Got lots of their stuff (and I think they make/made the WC Helium too) and it's pretty good. But seems like they're still missing a full sized, standard shape D ultralight.The alpha trad is a bit weird and the spectre is quite small, I think.
>>2207245
>Camp biners (Nano/Photon/Dyon)
Got a few of the first gen Nanos and it's pretty good (it's nano size is a pro for some situations and a con in others), but damn, that Dyon looks sweet. 11kn gate open at 33g, that's some good numbers. Guess gotta see how it handles.
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>>2208505
I've got specters on my cams they're decently sized, slightly bigger than my wild country asto's
>>
>>2207452
It doesn't hurt to start in doors, but really best way is to tag along with some friends and have them walk you through it. The ropes can hold hundreds of pounds and having a harness and being in control of your descent/ascent really empowers you. I think that may be where alot of fear of heights comes from, is lack of being in control.
>>
>>2208505
>>2208627
Are those carabiners really safe? I wouldn't feel right without an auto-locking one.
>>
>>2208821
I mean; they're safe for quick draws. for a master point you would use at least one locker. but yes they're rated (approximately) the same as any other biner.
>>
>>2208821
Do you use autolockers as quickdraws?
>>
>>2208875
of course. for both ends of both quickdraws (always double-draw your bolts, then create a master point with two more auto-locking draws). safety first anon!
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>>2208878
If you got the money for that, more power to ya
>>
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>>2208821
>>2208878
With posts like this, I never know if it's just trolling or that weird ass american safety culture.
That said: I do have in fact one locker draw, for those special situations where you have that one bolt that absolutely can not become unclipped and is to small to simply put in two draws opposed. Use it once every 20 climbs or so.
>>2208627
Damn, dude, you've got absolutely tiny hands…oh…wait, it's the same form as the Phantom, but bigger. Gotta check it out. Seems like DMM is moving away again from the more weird shapes (pic related).
Gotta see which one is on the upper end of my size range.
>>
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Anyways, finally managed to get /out/ for climbing again after a long hiatus.
Picked some weird ass chosspile, but it was above treeline, easy access and easy climbs and I really needed some views without working for it and without having to worry about the thunderstorms that where forecasted for midday-afternoon.
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>>2208898
that looks perfect
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>>2208898
Nice, hoping for some good weather next week to get out myself.
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>>2208893
Talk to me about these anon. I was thinking of getting some Heliums for the ends of some alpine draws (I have some Wild Country's that would match the top nicely).
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>>2196274
5.5-5.6 outdoor at the begining, Adirondacks so much harder grades. First trad lead was a 5.2 at the Gunks with two pitches of overhung roofs to pull through (granted it was big jugs).

5.9-5.10 starting indoors because I had some outdoor experience and grades in gyms are way easier.

Best I was climbing was "5.12+, 5.13-" at gyms, or V6ish, did finish some V8, for actual established outdoor routes in the Northeast just 5.11a, but could only climb 5.10a or b consistently clean. Done 5.12a out West and harder stuff down in WV.

Grade systems are kind of fucked, you'll go 1-3 grades in different regions and then gyms are really soft normally in my experience, by several grades.
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>>2209143
>5.2
>overhung
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>>2209349
Old school grades. Back from when 5.9 was the hardest grade you could give, rather than "just a little spicy for the new climbers".
Just another reason why dick measuring through grades is retarded
>>
How to into ice climbing from zero climbing experience?
>>
>>2209606
You don't
>>
>>2209606
Learn from someone who can and work up to it.
>>
>>2200189
That's not what a dynamic fall is for the sling though, the sling remains stationary from unloaded to loaded (but it is a bit of a shock force). Only the climber is undergoing a dynamic load.

À dynamic fall with a sling would be clipping in with one, climbing above the clipping point and then falling.
>>
>>2200606
Do you tr solo? How much gear do you need for it? I need an auto locking belay or assisted braking (only have tubular style) but wonder how much I have to spend on a backup also.
>>
>>2202852
Is that a steel biner?
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>>2209728
Yea it's ancient but still bomber (unlike the slings Im using)
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>>2203674
Where tf are you bro? Ninja training?
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>>2209349
The Gunks man.
>>
>>2209622
Good explanation.
>>2209687
Where?
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>>2209737
Rocky Butte. Its a viewpoint there is a set of stairs on the otherside. There is also sport climbing if you hike down into the side of the hill but hobos have taken it over and made it their sty
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>>2209776
Ouray, CO
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>>2209776
The nearest ice climbing place to you would be a sensible choice, alternatively solo the north face of the eiger, if you can't make it your a faggot who doesn't deserve to learn.
>>
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Managed to get up to NH for a few days and hit up Rumney and Cathedral Ledge.
Some good climbing to be had, got on a few classics but sadly no multi pitch at Cathederal as we had a dog with us.
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>>2207452
I used to be afraid of heights as a kid, but got over it. Fear is about anticipating something going bad. When you're in the shit, you're just dealing with the situation.
>>
>>2209142
Well, they're quite light, or used to be, before the sub 30g biners came out, but AFAIK those are all quite small, whereas the Helium is quite large. I also have quite a few small biners and they definitely do have their place, but as an alrounder, I prefer the larger stuff, with a traditional, asymetry D shape, which the Helium does. Also, 9kn gate open strength isn't too bad, especially at that wheight, but looking at the Camp dyon, maybe nowadays that's low-ish?
They're also no-snag/keylock, which is a pro for me.
However, they're not some almost self-clipping biners as some bent gates are wire gates with a big lip are, so if that's your thing, look elsewhere.
Also, they've got a big nose due to that, so if you're in an area with lots of old and/or selfmade bolts and pytons, you might encounter protection they simply won't fit.
Oh, and apparently, their keylock gate tends to ice up for some people and their i-beam construction catches slush, which then freezes into place.
Personally, never had an issue with it, but I'm not doing too much ice climbing, so other folks might have other opinions on that.
>>2209606
You don't. Ice climbing is the most retarded kind of climbing. Not only do you climb something for not real reason at all as with any climbing, you're also freezing while doing so, having ice cold water run into your arms and leaving your clothing at the socks, all the while having any oh so small fall giving you a huge potential for injuries of all kinds.
t. (occasional) ice climber
(but besides that: Find someone experienced or take a course)
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>>2210015
Those edges are all facing the wrong way
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>>2210543
Welcome to real rock
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>>2201110
Got some alpine draws to go with them been sport climbing with a full rack to get the feel of the weight and placing protection along the way
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>>2211227
go use them! they look so shiny!
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>>2201110
>>2211227
They're very...colorful, not that there's anything wrong with that.
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>>2202456
went to the doctor, boys.
turns out I injured my forearm muscle. thankfully not a tendon injury. basically just gotta have a hot compress while gulping down ibuprofen for a week or two.
turns out the rest of my body was outperforming my forearms/i was exerting my forearms too much so they got fucked.
thanks for the tips and resources, everyone.
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>>2211523
I recently got over an elbow and knee injury I got tumbling down a little slab I was climbing, shit's frustrating.
>>
How fucked am I if I only ever wear Scarpa Helix? Nothing else comes close to the fit
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>>2211459
Almost all trad gear is
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>>2211535
Just don't use the top of your foot too much, or be careful when you do so you don't tear your shit up.
Otherwise I don't see why it would be an issue
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>>2211459
the color is for easy size recognition, also we're incredibly homosexual. why do you think we're always going off to remote places where nobody can hear or see us with pads, ropes, chains, and obtuse pegging devices?
>>
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I started climbing in mid July and have been going as often and climbing as hard as my elbows will allow, across the 4 gyms I go to I climb 5.11A at my upper limit and want to be able to consistently send that grade before learning to climb lead. Anyone have any input as to what the typical downgrade from gym grade to outdoor grade is? I know that it's very dramatic and would obviously start slow.

>picrel the ouchie I got on my finger at my gym today
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>>2212231
I don't know what it is for sport climbing but bouldering usually half minus 1 from whatever your indoor hardest is. I haven't sport climbed in a gym but the hardest I've sent outside is 5.9 so far and I lead that after TR it a couple times. Leading is such a rush I'd say if you have gym access lead inside as the stakes are much lower if something were to happen. The first time I led I just told my buddy, who is the experienced climber, I wanna lead. He asked if I feel ready for it, I said yeah and sent it.
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>>2212231
Why wait just start leading it's much more fun than bouldering
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I'm starting to really be interested in semi technical alpine stuff. Anyone else ? My buddy and I traversed this a few weeks ago mostly 4th class with a few low 5th moves. Was pretty harrowing at points but I trusted his route finding. The summit euphoria was real.
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>>2213110
Yea climbing to get up something even if the route isn't near your technical limit is far more rewarding to me.
>>
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Day 1/2 at malham
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>>2213393
Them walls look TALL boy yeehaw

Got out to red rock yesterday and did sensuous mortician, good route with good run outs on small gear….now I just wanna go climb again.

What’s y’all’s training regimen (for strength and endurance) if you have one? I try to run and lift. Trying to do abs more too.
>>
>>2213422
oh fuck I forgot a pic
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>>2213422
I've been wondering this myself. I pretty much alternate climbing and mt biking and don't really "train" but im plateauing hard.
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>>2213422
Just pull ups, push ups, sit ups and planking, squats and highsteps(high steps are really important I'm finding) and hang board(my door jamb). For endurance and cardio I hike fast with boulder scrambling/hopping.
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>>2213393
That's pretty intimidating
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critique my anchor please
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>>2213563
Looks fine to me
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>>2212260
>>2212238
Ok fine, now I just need to find a lead belayer
>>
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>>2213393
>>2213393
How is the climbing there in general? Have you ever climbed at Gordale Scar?

I am in the area once every year for and would like to climb sport ideally but could bring a trad rack if there's decent routes.

>>2213563
Totally bomber, providing your double fisherman's tied correctly.
In practice the clove you tied is usually unnecessary.

Try pic related method with 4 or more 'pieces'. Good to have as many possible anchor scenarios dialed in advance of actually using them.
>>
>>2212231
Any time you switch media it feels hard. Granite feels hard for people who climb soft sandstone and visa versa (although I will say sport crags near cities tend to be ridiculously soft)
>>
>>2213732
Shouldn't one of those gates be reversed?
>>
>>2212231
outdoor grades are pretty location-dependent. in the PNW sport climbing grades feel about the same as they do in a gym. of course, you'll want to lead several grades below your max until you're very comfortable falling.

bouldering grades are a whole other story.
>>
>>2213885
technically yes but that really only matters if they're going to be pressing up against something, which is obviously not the case here.
>>
>>2213732
>In practice the clove you tied is usually unnecessary.

I did it to keep the double fishermans from getting in the way of the overhand I tied. I was worried about it being too long
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>>2213393
I’m not a huge fan of Overhangs, but damn, that does look sweet!
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>>2213563
WTF?
Why even use three points? They’re all on the same structure, so if that thing is gonna fail, your two other points won’t do shit.
And you just increased the chances of failure twofold: the two points on the right are gonna put a lot of stress on those rusty pipes!
But probably doesn’t matter anyways, since you put the whole deal up so high, so you’re gonna lever the shit out of that pole. Yeah, belaying in a kneeling position sucks, but you know what sucks more? Tumbling down some rocks with your whole belay station!
Just sling the pole at the lowest point, and assuming it’s has a semi decent foundation or is driven in far enough, you should be fine.
>>
>>2214041
I must be retarded because I seriously can't tell if this is bait or not
>>
>>2213717
I made this mistake too. You don't need gear, you need to look for a mentor and use your money for beer and gas for them
>>
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>>2213732
Was there today it's a mile down the road. I was just on some of the shorter side walls not the main faces. I think the main routes are bolted but it's mostly trad.

T. Not me climbing
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>>2214225
That's the cove if that wasn't clear
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>>2214128
I think its just some joke that only the anon that posted it is laughing at.
>>
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>>2213885
If you look a little closer you'll see that one biner is for the rope and one is for a PAS.
This was a set up for a rappel that I'd be ascending later on, otherwise I'd tie myself in with the rope rather than a PAS.

No point in doubling up a screwgate. If you don't trust a single screwgate climbing is not for you.

>>2213976
I'm aware of why you tied it. In practice you'll learn that you can just place the fisherman's on the outer side of the right or leftmost piece of gear and manipulate the cordelette just fine without the need for a clove.

>>2214225
Does look like a sweet spot. Will have to bring a rack with me next time I visit.
>>
>>2214461
>If you don't trust a single screwgate climbing is not for you.

Famous last words
>>
>>2197454
>>2197473
>>2197639
>>2197653
Planning a trip from the bay for Veterans Day weekend. I know it’s a long ways off but who’s in?

I’m V5/5.11b indoor V2/5.9 outdoor sport and trad
>>
>>2196274
started 5.8
climbing v6 indoor v3 outdoor 5.10 sport

21 weeks
>>
>>2214799
Pretty fast progress. Make sure to take care of your tendons.
>>
>>2214793
>from the bayarrhea
stay there, please
>>
>>2214793
Ya if you come to red rock I’ll hop on something with ya
>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sXIaslwYsFw
>>
>>2215139
Im sure all the uni faggots who wear pristine Patagonia teeshirts to Starbucks are very excited about this.
>>
>>2215139
It's not gonna be about climbing, right?
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>>2215139
in this case it really is a they/them
>>
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absolute noob here. What kind of gear do I need to climb something like this. There are steel cables on there that much I know. I'm also pretty fit.
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>>2215379
"Need" none, but you're not going to do it so don't worry about what gearn someone who is might use.
>>
>>2215379
It would help if you told us what mountain it is, what the routes name is, maybe the grade or style as well. Then we can help you start planning.

>>2215386
Cmon now no reason to be a jerk
>>
>>2215397
After a while you see the trends in any hobby of people who are actually interested and who just wants to buy something.
>>
>>2215402
…? It starts with them wanting to buy something, trying it and either getting into it or realizing it isn’t for them. I don’t see what’s so bad about that. I’d bring a harness and 2 personal anchors to a via ferrata especially if I was a newbie. And I know they use a different PAS than climbers do. You can gate keep at your mega hard supersecret trad crag but leave it out of the public forum available to everyone.
>>
>>2215402
The less I buy the better, I just don't wanna be like those people that bring nothing with them in the mountain and get themselves in a bad situation. The mountain is called Rosengarten and a good idea of the mountain can be gotten from google earth. I've hiked plenty of "boring" mountains before.
>>
>>2215402
I haven't even bought chalk, haven't needed it yet. I am going to buy some tape though.
>>
>>2195866
what are some good resources (books/websites) to find crags with detailed info?
>>
>>2215518
https://www.mountainproject.com/
This is my go to website, there's an index at the bottom and there's an interactive map once you get to an area. I'm not sure how good it is for Europe and else where though.
>>
>>2215518
google earth, print out screenshots and take them to the climbing destination, that's how Sir Edmund Hillary used to do it back in the day
>>
>>2215527
ooh, i like this one. thanks bro.
>>
>>2215518
a local climbing guidebook is always going to be the best resource. then mountainproject.
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>>2215411
Don't worry lad learn the signs soon enough.
>They always start with some epic project
See whatever this fuck off exposed mountain is
>they never want to do the intermediate steps to get there
Notice he isn't interested in learning to climb and maybe this is a nice goal to work towards, he just wants up this one thing.
>and they always get caught up in some autistic detail that doesn't matter.
Worrying about his rack asif he buys the right nut key is going to make or break the climb.
>>
>>2215771
shut up, I want to get a good deal on gently used items and if someone wants to buy a bunch of shit they don't need I'll be there like a vulture
>>
>>2215379
LOL, gear. How about that machine Neo used to learn king fu
>>
>>2215537
Yer...
>>
>>2215775
Fuck you're right, I take it all back you need a full rack of totem cams.
>>
>>2215379
>steel cables
>that pic
So, I'd guess dolomites?
I could give you a shopping list of gear, but if that's what I'm thinking it is, you got some learning to do first before you get any gear, otherwise, your most important gear with the be 2500-5000€ the helicopter saving your ass will cost you.
>>
>>2215139
I like how they cry that this shouldn't be a big deal and then stuff it down our throats. I don't give a shit about this, how you identify, what you call yourself or what you piss out of. I really don't give a shit about this, and if that's how it should be according to people, then stop.

It's even worse that companies are profiting off this and this is being used to gain capital. Patagonia makes some nice stuff but has a really nice ability to make me wince and turn away.

It's also interesting how they consistently shut down discussion and debate and insta-shun other perspectives. I guess that's why I'm rambling on /out/ on 4chan about this.
>>
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>>2215379
You'll need a helmet, harness, via ferrata set and some comfy shoes, preferably approach shoes. I'm actually from around the area of pic related and could accompany you. I even got some gear i could lend to you, but I really only do ferratas becaus I've got no friends to do actual climbing with.
>>
>>2215987
patagonia is the worst for this. They also sponsor some fat fuck couple who climb 5.8.
All of these things are blatant attempts to sell more shit to more demographics.
It's all so cynical.
>>
>>2215918
>2500-5000€ the helicopter saving your ass will cost you.

This reminded me, in America if I remember correctly its between $30k-$50k for a rescue helicopter. A year of helicopter insurance is like $60-$80 a year so if you are doing anything sketchy get that insurance before going out. Contact your fire department to get the name of the rescue company.
>>
>>2216031
That feeling when you are overweight, but not fat enough to be inspiring or sponsored for climbing a jug ladder
>>
>>2216100
get fatter brah, you can do it!
>>
brehs do you think any of the elite climbers took the vax? Genuinely curious
>>
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>>2216031
"Inclusivity" and "accessibility" are marketing tactics. they dont give a shit about your crowded local crag
>>
>>2216110
who cares?
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>>2216117
i do thats why i asked
>>
Been top roping and auto-belaying for a few months now. Finally got the itch to lead. What rope should I get? Also, can I learn myself or do I have to pay the man $70 dollhairs for a two hours class. I've been watching videos and plan on taking practice falls and just climbing below my grade and building up gradually.
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>>2216209
unless you're tight on money, I would recommend taking the class. they're typically well worth the price. I prefer to do my learning on the ground, not while leading a route.
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>>2216209,
don't listen to this pussy, >>2216254

just get out there and go for it, home depot sells ropes, get the kind with a steel eyelet built in so it's easier to clip a carabiner to your harness
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how crowded are crags, usually? never been out to one but I don't want to have to have to see other people (or even worse, have to wait my turn). that would ruin it. what are the best times/places to ensure that i don't have a bunch of faggots ruining it.
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>>2216259
Don't listen this pussy >>2216254
or this idiot >>2216259

I'm sure the class will teach you things since you've only been climbing a few months, but I just started leading by doing routes way under my grade. I also have only sport climbed outdoors and don't want to pay some gymbro $70 just so I can pull on plastic with a little tag on my harness. You gotta be in the right head space to lead but it's very thrilling. IMO maybe spend some more time then a few months climbing and make sure your tendons are strong, but if you are confident in your ability go for it!

>What rope should I get?
You should get a thicker rope for your first one like 10mm it'll last longer. 70m is a good length. Make sure it has a middle marker or better yet has two different patterns to make the middle even clearer. Dry treated rope is slightly more expensive but worth it in my neck of the woods. If you are in a place thats always dry you might not need it, but it does help the longevity of the rope. I store my rope in a $1 ikea bag but will get an actual rope bag soon as they are a real quality of climb improver.

t.outdoor climber
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>>2216281
>>2216209
forgot to reply to you
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>>2216280
depends on the crag. find someplace that's not right next to the road and go on a weekday and you'll have the place to yourself.
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>>2216280
Might be because it's the end of the season but all the crags I go to are dead, maybe one other pair at most.
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Just ordered pic related with my pro deal and it was only $27 also threw in a rope bag and a new harness. Excited to try out a new belay device
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How do I get into climbing? I've been interested in starting for a while but never got around to it
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>>2217703
Turn up at a gym and pay them to teach you, hard thing is finding someone to go with
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>>2217703
check out the forums on Mountain project in your area maybe find someone to go with. Also bouldering is the easiest form of climbing to get into
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Can anybody tell me how to get rid of this? I'm assuming its from downsized shoes but I don't know what its called
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>>2217883
Looks like a foot to me
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>>2216281
>I also have only sport climbed outdoors
I learned to belay and lead climb exclusively outdoors. I thought I was a rare case but guess there are others that have stuck to the OG way.

Good advice though anon. Just adding specific brands. People enjoy Sterling (VR9) as a first rope. Edelrid Boa is also good. BD ropes are less good but can be found on sale for cheap.
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anyone based in the dolomites here? I wanna climb (noob)
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>>2217693
it's... just an ATC, right? I can't tell if there's anything special going on here.
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we've passed the bump limit. the threads sure fly by these days.
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>>2218707
they really do. last one lasted 3 or 4 months, IIRC,
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>>2218706
It has an assisted braking feature like a grigri but a tubular design like an atc. The green pads on top can slide forwards or backwards to either be like a normal atc or to have the assisted braking like a grigri. I don't think it locks up exactly as well as a grigri, from what i've heard, but it does offer added safety.
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>>2218305
>Edelrid Boa is also good

They came out with some 8.9mm rope that is as strong as a 10mm rope against abrasion its nuts. I'm the same anon you are replying too and my friend that got me into climbing taught me outdoors and he was taught outdoors in Utah. I'm trying to teach my cousin the same way but she is timid and I want to see more self confidence out of her before letting her belay me.
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>>2218328
I live a little south, near Feltre/Montebelluna. If you want we can do something. Define how noob you are. Do you have gear?
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>>2219062
>Define how noob you are
Last time i sport climbed was in a gym 10 years ago with school. I have a harness, shoes, helmet, some locking carabiners, 120cm sling and a chalkbag. I just wanna do some cragging, maybe some plaisir routes in the near future. I could lend additional gear from the mountain club if needed.





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