Climbing General #19A place to talk about climbing in any aspect (trad, sport, bouldering, aid, alpine, etc).Rock Climbing is a dangerous sport that can cause loss of life, limb, eyesight, or sanity.Useful Info:https://pastebin.com/dhTMzCqJWeather is finally cooling off.off-belay >>2155031https://youtu.be/0ljIyEOBxrA
Great way to start the thread, Stefano Ghisolfi just sent Bibliographie 9c in Céüse, holy fuck
>>2195875It's more like a 9b, silence is the only 9c
Going to do my first trad lead this weekend, wish me luck brothers.
>>2195879he actually just posted on instagramhttps://www.instagram.com/p/CTCR5t9siaC/> I know I can climb a 9c, but for a route to be that grade it needs to be much harder than the existing 9b+s, and Bibliographie for me isn't.So yeah, Silence is for now the only 9c until someone sends that beast again and confirms the grade
>>2195932Lmao, so he's already downgrading it without actually proposing a grade, the balls of Stefano>This doesn't mean I want to belittle the performance of anyone, neither Alex's or mine, it is still an incredible achievement (especially the first ascent that includes many more hard mental and physical aspects) but I just wanted to be honest about what I felt during the whole process on BibliographieI guess it's 'just' a 9b+ then
>>2195988People are too precious about grades, as long as you know vuagly how hard it is its good
>>2195927Enjoy the rush
Led a 5.5 last week for my first time, and just led a 5.9 yesterday and I wasn't terrified this time. The moves all felt easy I was just flowing. 5.10a is next up.
>>2196019I would tend to agree that grades usually don't matter - just enjoy what you climb - but when you're actually pushing the limit of the sports, I'd argue it does matter more.
>>2195866gonna ask this question again since i'm curiouswhat grade did you start climbing at?what grade are you at now?indoor or outdoor? how long did it take?
>>2196274Started with my max at V3 indoor and 5.6 outdoor My first ever climb was an outdoor sport route but bouldering is a lot easier to get into, and the majority of my climbing.Now I'm at about V6/7 indoor and V3 outdoor. Haven't done any indoor sport climbing but just did 5.9 as my hardest lead. In a little under a year I think I started last November.
>>2196280>V3 outdoorNice job man. You could do significantly harder sport leads without much more practice
>>2195988megos in literal fucking shambles
If I want to do a big wall will I have to learn trad? I already want to try out trad climbing, but one of my goals is doing a big wall and this would motivate me to buy a rack with the upcoming sale
>>2196512Yes.There is no other way to get that much distance without being a traddy daddy.
I went top rope soloing last night, my setup was a grigri with a klemheist knot on the brake line. It worked but it was kind of a pain in the arse moving the knot. Probably going to have to get a microtraxion or something like that going forward.
>>2195875Has a four finger positive hold to launch off ofRates it 9b....
>>2196512not only will you have to learn gear placements, but you will need to learn a lot of systems to efficiently get yourself up the wall. It is a long process but very doable. Enjoy the process! Show us your first rack!!!! Where will you be practicing?
>>2196274>V2/5.7>V5/5.11started indoor 7 years ago and climbed very casually. been taking it more seriously in the last 2 years and going outdoors a lot more.
>>2197128REI is having their labor day sale so I think this is as good of time as any to buy a trad rack. BD C4s are on sale so I'm getting from 0.4-3, a set of nuts, and some carabiners. I'm rationalizing it by saying I wanted a PS5 and this is the same cost and its for a sport so its better for me haha. I'll probably be practicing at Broughton Bluff, Madrone Wall, and Carver Boulders (they have trad routes) in the Portland area. Once I get a little more experience I'll probably go down to Smith Rock
>>2196502Got shutdown on a 5.10b yesterday, I think it was because I didn't warm up first but I'll totally send it next time
>>2197425Nice, enjoy the rack and make sure to USE IT!! the only acceptable time to show up with shiny new gear is your first day or just buying it haha. If you run out of funds it’s acceptable to buy cams, nuts or biners used. Check the slings on the cams, usually they are good but if they’re old and tatty get em reslung. Have you led anything yet?Currently sportin at Mt Charleston NV, gonna get out to red rock tmw :D
How do I make the transition from indoor to outdoor bouldering? I'm especially worried as I don't have any friends to boulder with, so falling is extra scary
>>2197443Get a padPut it under where you will fallGo wildHave a phone to call for help if you snap an ankle
>>2196274Start at? I mean, day 1 I could do V1s I think. I peaked with V4s indoors, 5.11bs indoors then I got a muscle imbalance I had to correct by going back to lifting for awhile.I'm just getting back into climbing, and can still flash V3s indoors, but V4s take projecting.Outdoors the highest I climbed was 5.9 but I only top roped outdoors twice.
>>2197437>pic last year at SmithI've just recently started leading so far I've done a 5.6 and a 5.9. I have mainly bouldered because no rope, but my buddy with a rope showed me how to belay last week and so I have been getting more experience on a wall. This has all been outdoor climbing btw. I wanna go out to Red Rock when it starts getting cold up here it's only $38 for a round trip flight to Vegas!
>>2197444checked, also try boulders with level landings to start and aim for your pad if you gotta bail. Outdoor problems are harder than the gym whatever grade you can do in a gym most likely cut it in half for outdoor boulders
>>2196274start 5.9 gym, 5.7 sport, 5.6 tradno 5.11 gym, 5.10 sport, 5.9 trad3 years
>>2197454Nice homie. Lmk when you are in Vegas I’ll go up some stuff with ya, plenty good beginner stuff to get real high on. We can use my rack so you can save on baggage haha
>Multiple people in this thread climbing at Red RocksGood shit, I want to go there this year, might need to sync up
>>2197639I be out here stuntin
>>21962745.3, 5.6, outdoors, three months, yes I'm out of shape.
>>2196597What kind of climb was it?
>>2196080Thanks bro, pic related me about to enjoy the rush.
>>2198254An easy crack/flake
>>2198186At least you're outside. Plus 3 months isn't much with this sport, it takes about 6 just to get your finger tendons decent
Did my first onsight today felt pretty good. The climb wasn't hard I think it was 5.6 but felt cool to do it. My friend had to leave a locker at the crag because rope was too short to make it to the anchors and he needed to get back down
>>2199096Go back and get it. And learn how to do a biner block
>>2199141Can you link a video?
Once my divorce is finalized or canceled I'm going to buy everything I need to top rope solo because I'm sick of not being able to climb anymore. 5 years of major depression and an unsupportive wife is a real drag bros.
>>2199719I'm well acquainted with this feel. Good plan and hang in there.
>>2199719you might also try finding a partner on mountainproject. they have a partner finding app and forums for your area.
>>2199719Take your ex-wife climbing. Have an accident.Thank me later anon-kun
>>2199864Do they have a climbing gf section
>>2200007it's the best place to find your perfect trad wife
Toprope Anchors on Balls Out - 5.11c Ethan Allen Park, Burlington, VT
>>2198186I have similar results dont be demotivated
>>2200078Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't it kinda unsafe to weight those slings with anything but a static load. Like if somehow you took a fall on TR there is more risk for the slings to fail?
>>2200189static cordelette is typically used for anchors. the rope will take most of the dynamic load. also, there's not much force in a TR fall.
>>2200078Looks like a thin rig til you get to that big ol crack. Then an off width extravaganza. Lead it yet?
>>2200007Sigh, climbing girls are even more pathetic than gamer girls, anon.
>>2200400Wrong at least they go outside unlike those fat fuck gaymars.
>>2200400they can grip you with their pussies thoughIt's worth it.
>>2198889Looks gnarly where’s this at? TR soloing?Did some laps on the Fox for breakfast the other morning now hittin the gym. The season is upon us!!!! Send it!!!
why are most people you meet in bouldering gyms meathead gym bros who dont do any kind of actual mountain activity?
>>2200669where do you live?at my gym its mostly nebbish asians who dont do any kind of actual mountain activity
>>2200606No, I was pulling up my 2nd (almost literally with a 4-1. He had a COVID gut and was absolutely destroyed. Took 30m to finish the last 30ft at least on a 210ft route)
>>2200464>going outside is an accomplishmentOK
>>2200732gea holt in die knottn aum, no ischs worm genua
>>2200743for modern women it depresdingly is
>>2200189Sounds like you have never used an anchor in your life DESU
>>2200189You're wrong, although if you were directly tied in with it and took a factor 2 that would be dangerous
>>2200131Thanks, yeah I just focus on getting stronger.
>>2198186Out of curiosity, where at? At the (modern sporty) crags I've been to 5.7 is the easiest thing there and they're basically jug ladders that I imagine anyone healthy person could handle if they don't get too scared. Are you at an old school crag or doing trad?
>>2200855Focus on technique first
>>2200078Why are you using two biners at your masterpoint?
>>2200808Never over an edge like that, so that's why I asked desu ka.
>>2197128My rack came in stoppers from 4-13 and cams from .4-3
>>2201110Oooooh shit got a route picked out to test if they work or not?
>>2201158Thats how I'm feeling when I'm walking with them on the harness lol.I'm gonna try a route called the classic crack at Broughton bluff. I can make it to the anchors from a nearby sport route. My plan is to be on two ropes one TR and one leading and practice gear placement and taking falls on protection. I don't have any aid ladders but I hear thats a good low risk way of practicing placements.
>>2200929not the Initial guy but here in europe every beginner I know had troubles with uiaa 4+ which is around 5.6 or at least at 5-(5.7). On Real Rock at least, Gym grades are bullshit amyways.
>>2201158>>2201177Kek I hate that feeling, being the worst climber but with spanking new gear.
>>2200929I'm in Joshua Tree and if you're talking about something like pic related then yeah I can do that but I would say that's about a 5.5(it's listed as v-easy), in contrast there are two problems on asteroid boulder listed as 5.6 and 5.7 that I can barely even get on, they are E and F on this pic:>https://cdn2.apstatic.com/photos/climb/106045764_large_1558466946.jpg>>2200933I think I have a pretty good grasp of basic techniques but a lot of them I'm not strong enough for, like a lie back or some mantels or even hanging on to a small crimp.
>>2200606Mmmmm fucc that crack looks so good. We just get rough granite up here in canuckistan>>2200728Same. I quit the gym that was like this. Middle of suburbia with a bunch of gymbies, too much cringe
>>2200669>>2200728It depends on the gym, the bouldering gyms near me is full of zoomer uni students and related faggots who don't own a harness but the old school gym is full of crusty old bastards on lead walls mainly training for trad. Needless to say I mainly visit the latter.
>>2201361I'm just gonna wear it all on my harness and go bouldering haha
>>2201513>Salivating over a really short crack in soft sandstoneYikes
>>2201458Ah okay, yeah that's an old school area built by boulderers and hardasses. Go up to Norcal or Red Rocks and I bet you'll be screaming up 5.7 sport
I'm getting close to doing my first indoor 6c, the strength is there I just need to nail the sequence/techniques. There's a bit where you go from layback to squared up that I kept popping off but I know where I was going wrong.
Just went bouldering for the first time in my life and it was major fun, any recs on how to get better or is just climbing as often as I can enough for now.
>>2201686The Fox is not short and the sandstone is not soft. Go outside.
>>2201937If it was your very first time, the mantra is just to climb some more and have fun.
>>2201107In that situation, not extending your master point over the edge is actually dangerous. The danger of an edge comes from your line moving over it and getting cut.
>>2201039Redundancy for top roping. They should orient the gates to be opposed though.
>>2195866uh, bros? just started climbing about a month ago and i recently started going much more straight arm and pushing myself harder, but now when i climb there's an awful pain in the top area of my wrist. doesn't feel quite like muscle soreness. i feel like it might be a tendon issue but there's no way i fucked a tendon already, right? how do i find out what's wrong?
>>2202456>just started climbing about a month agoTake a break. It sucks, I know it does, we all know it sucks, but that's the cure. Muscles build faster than tendon strength and its easier to strain a tendon than you might think.
>>2202293Nice whatd ya get on
>>2202697New area for me. Moundy slopey stuff. My shoulder hurts from all the isometrics.
>>2202293you gotta start turning these pics anon
Did my first multi-pitch today, wasn't a very hard route but was good enough for my second trad climb.
Anybody else like to bring a cooler and some beers to the crag? I see people smoking weed all the time but that just makes me paranoid.
>>2202853No stay at home if you want to get blasted, that goes for the smokers too.
>>2202859John Sherman is turning over in his grave right now
>>2202863WTF is he doing in a grave?
>>2202901Just chilling lol
>>2202901Calling you a hangdog
>>2202456hoopersbeta.com is good enough to be a climber's bible for any pain/injury concerns. Don't be thrown by the occasionally clickbaity thumbnails. Poke around and you'll probably find some stuff that applies to you.
>>2202853I don't usually go to crags where bringing a cooler would be easy or even possible, but having one in the car is nice as fuck.
>>2202853...surely you mean summit beers you climb 10 pitches with
>>2203011I bring pic related and its been real nice to have cold drinks and snacks. Its also like a 5 minute hike to the crag so not hard to carry in
I need to drive over an hour to get to my two bouldering spots. As an alternative I figured I could climb trees. Does anyone else do this? There must be some crossover but will climbing lots of trees improve my bouldering?
>>2203227No not really
Im mildly obsessed with this guy's channel, he's constantly getting but blasted over people saying his climbs are over ratedhttps://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RajFLqOmUWs
GYMBIES PLS GO FROM THIS THREAD THANK YOU
>>2203575But all the hot girls are in the gym>8r8hhProblematic captcha
>>2203488>https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=RajFLqOmUWsThat was actually a V2 though
>>2203622Either he's flagrantly lying, delusional, or his gym is padding grades to the moon
>>2203488no way that was a v7 half the holes are fucking stepping stones this dudes not climbing hes fucking walking if this was a v7 im climbing 15's on the daily ez
How would yall go about setting up an anchor here for top rope. I'm climbing without a spotter and want to try out TR solo. I'm thinking loop the rope a couple times around the "∩__∩" feature, make a figure 8 on a bight with the tail, use a locker and clip back into it for redundancy.
>>2203674That sounds alright or you could just sling some webbing around it. This looks pretty tough, how thin are those edges?
>>2203227Move to the boulders.
>>2203746Its not too bad the crimps are incut and some of the mortar has eroded leaving some nice pockets. No one climbs on this though so figuring out the beta without obvious chalky holds has been pretty fun. I think its rated V1
Hi anons, I built a 4x8 climbing wall but I’m seeing other walls that lean in a bit.As a beginner who has never climbed before would climbing on a slight lean (maybe 10 degrees?) be a good option?Or should I keep slab climbing?
>>2203865A short vertical wall will get real boring real fast. You basically need to have some steepness, probably more than 10 degrees, if you want to have worthwhile problems using actual handholds. And I'm someone who loves slab climbing and sucks shit at steeps, but a 8' vertical wall is pointless
>>2203873 this. if possible have some variety too, though.
>>2203873>>2203880Thanks anons, this kind of confirms how I was feeling about modifying my little wall.Now I feel more confident that the time making the modification will be well spent
Just tried my first highball on Saturday. How the fuck do you get over the fear of being 20ft in the air with a single pad under you? Just keep doing it?
>>2204147Having good spotters helps a lot
>>2204147You get on a fucking sport route you non climber
>>2204318I rather whip on a wire than boulder with one shitty pad
>>2203674You fuck off throw your pad away and go climb some actual routes u dum bitch
>>2204334I flash your projects
>>2204356My aprotches are harder than your projects
>>2204365You no-good, back clipping, beta spraying, music playing, dogbone pulling, crag dog bringing, rope behind your feet gumby. You could never handle my approach, come back in 10 years.
>>2204147You're essentially free soloing at that point and I doubt any gets over the fear they just learn how to control it which makes them appear calm.
>>2204409good pasta potential
>>2204147You can boulder on the beach at 20ft and it's not even dangerous.
Anyone else in WNC? I top roped at melrose, pilot mtn, and rumbling bald over the summerAlso boulder at RB 1-2 times a month
climbed my first trad lead a couple of days ago. went up this crack at the feathers. so full of choss I could barely place any gear.>>2202852looks epic.
>>2204845Not idea where you are, but it looks like chossy tuft
>>2204845Any fist jams there? Looks quite nice despite the choss.
>>2204845It's glen coe, always looks wild
How do I climb scary shit? Just get way better??I climbed at pinnacles (pic related) and bailed on the second clip of wet kiss 5.9 because I would have decked if I fell while mantling up. How do other people do that? They just ignore the fear and don’t fall?
>>2205067Get a belayer you can trust.
Any skin care tips? I find that I'm tearing the shit out of my fingertips but it isn't like they're getting any stronger.
>>2205067Practice similar mantels until you can do them in your sleep. That climb is laughing at you now.
>>2204851it's basalt. Frenchman Coulee, WA. pretty nice spot and there's basically endless climbing in the nearby gorge.>>2204911I didn't try it because the face was so featured, but you probably could. crack is 3-4 in all the way up.
>>2205226I've only heard people call that place "Vantage". About 7h from here
Where should I go climbing this weekend near LA with all the forests closed and the desert too hot?
>>2205067Generally, just by practicing falling in a safe environment (e.g. the gym). And for your specific route, I'm saying this after shitting on the boulderers above, but bouldering. My mantels were much improved after lots of boulder top outs.
>>2205252Somewhere that wont catch fire while you're there.
>>2205252Did they close Idyllwild too?
>>2205067Pinnacles is kinda scary sometimes lolWay I see it though it's just a matter of exposure. Do the thing and get away with it a bunch and it won't be so scary the next time. If you're scared shitless though it won't help, you want to do things that are kinda scary but not horrifying and get used to it. So it might be worth picking lower grades or more generously bolted climbs and get some reps there. With sport climbing, most routes won't have seriously dangerous falls, and if they do it's on easy portions. The more familiar with rock you are, the less scary those easy portions will be
>>2205368Yep. Life is bad out here right now.Probably just a stoney point weekend for me
Anyone experience with La Sportiva Mythos shoes? I need a new pair that's comfortable to fuck around in on easy sportclimbs, but I'm el cheapo and leaning towards just getting Tarantulas because I don't care about the performance (I only climb like 6a-6b)
>>2205643They're fine shoes. Try both on and get the one that fits you best. Not worth being a cheapass on shoes if one fits great and the other doesn't
>>2205245yeah I hear that a lot. the surrounding area is Vantage, but the specific climbing area is Frenchman Coulee. both work just fine.
>>2201893Ok I went back to the route got past the bit I was stuck on after a few attempts, got almost to the top where it was pinches all the way and my arms pumped the fuck out to the point where I could barely hold a water bottle when i got down. Next session I've definitely got it though.
>>2205978Godspeed anon-kunalso >post route
Got my first 5.10b today, TR and wasn't able to send it cleanly but made it to the anchors. I'll send it clean next time though. Pic is pulled from Mountain Project but thats the route
>>2206496TR is imaginary world where anything goes, you’re gonna lead it next time right?
>>2206496Is the crux after the fifth bolt? It looks kind of blank there.
>>2195866rate my view
>>2206715Most definitely I got the route downloaded in my head now >>2206776I think the crux is in-between the 4th and 5th bolt at least I remember that being the hardest for me. After that it eases up, but from the 2nd to the 5th its pretty sustained difficult. Its hard to tell from the angle but there is a big arete on the left you can follow up to that hole where the 6th bolt is.
I actually got me a >>2200007>climbing gfand turned her into my >>2200051>trad wifesome time ago, and it's all fun and games, but there's one issue: If your main climbing partner is also your wife and she becomes pregnant, you suddenly lost your main climbing partner.So with that, childbirth, the first, hard year and corona, I've been out of the loop for like 2 years.Wanted to go climbing today with some friends, but the kid got some fever, so I wouldn't want to leave the two home alone, so I cancelled that trip.But while packing, I went through all my stuff and I realized I probably should replace my dynema slings, they're getting a tad old.what's the current, hot, meme sling to get? Still Mammuts 8mm thingies or is there something else?Oh, and I displaced a few biners so I might wanna get 3 or 4. I'm quite fond of the Wild Country Helium, used to be the most advance biner some years ago.Again, what's the current, hot, meme binger to get?
>>2206969All things being equal I buy DMM because they do all their manufacturing in the UK but that's probably not a factor if you're not a bong.
>>2206969Mammut BD or metolius, trango? I’ve seen people use em all and they’re all the same to me
>>2206969At least u got to fuck a preggo>current, hot, meme bingerCamp biners (Nano/Photon/Dyon)
Anyone else afraid of heights that wants to get into climbing?Trying to legit overcome the fear, not sure really how to start.I have all the gear necessary to do repelling and am fairly well read on various things like anchors, knots, and techniquesI honestly get scared watching climbing videos, imagining myself isolated on a giant wall. This is something I truly want to get passedThere is a climbing gym nearby, should I just start indoors to build confidence?
>>2195866I think my gym is pumping up the grades a lot to make people feel better. How can I tell what the actual grades of the climbs are?
>>2207470climb on a moonboard/kilterboard or outdoors
How good do you have to be to free solo with a full trad rack?
>>2207498This t. "6b" indoor climber that can't even get off the ground on a system board
>>2207452All that information you have on anchors, knots, and technique won't even matter if you can't think straight on the wall. I don't think it matters where you start as long as you start somewhere. I started outside on easy routes, then spent a lot of time indoor bouldering, and now have been doing a lot more sport climbing and just got my first trad rack. I didn't have a fear of heights, but I did of equipment failure until I learned that all climbing gear is super engineered and unless you are climbing trad you most likely wont ever hit the deck. Muscles grow faster than tendons get strong so don't overdo it. >pic is view from about 60ft up
>>2207588looks like the gorge, what route is this?
>>2207452I myself have annoying fear that wasn't there when I was younger so I just push it gradually and make sure of my abilities, and it's getting better.I knew a guy who fell and broke his elbow on a mountain trail and now he can't even climb a steep hill, he just breaks down and gets complete undone.So maybe concentrate on the fear by putting yourself up somewhere high and simply experiencing it and gradually desensitize yourself to it as well as learn to control it and put it in perspective. If you try something technical the fear will cloud your thinking.
Help.I'm living in my car and have an interest in doing bouldering. I know a lot of climbers live out of vans. Is the somewhere that has a good climbing community I can travel to and live around? Im young, no responsibilities, and have a few thousand saved up
>>2207609The warmup at Viento wall
>>2207752Bishops probably a good spot especially if you’re into bouldering
>>2207859Bishop will chew anons fingers off if they only have an interest in bouldering and never actually tried it
I have fat stubby hands so I tried a fist jam and it was beautiful. Now I want to get into trad climbing but the variation in different protective gear is confusing. Is there a benchmark basic set to get when you're starting out which will set you on your way and get you up some basic climbs?
Got my first 5.7 boulder today, woo hoo!(the one in the middle) I was barely able to get on it a month ago. It was vertical with about three moves on thin but solid edges(I had to downclimb it too). I got almost to the top on the one to the right but the last move was pretty committed with a balancy top out and I didn't have a spotter. I got halfway up the one on the left but then I couldn't find anything to crank up on. Sorry to be such a noob but it's a milestone for me.>>2207752Come to Joshua Tree, lots of climbers and a lifetime supply of boulders. We could spot each other while we flail away on V-easys
>>2207452Gym toprope is the easiest way to expose yourself to the feeling of being on a wall. Try to climb to a point of mild discomfort, then fall (on toprope, this fall will be trivial, you can even ask for tension and then lean back if you want). Hang on your rope, look around, take in the feeling of being up there while being safe on your rope. Continue if you can or go back down and try again. If you do something enough times without getting hurt or terrified, you'll get over the fear.Ideally you have a partner you're friendly with that you can be honest with about your fear training.
>>2208157>Basically a sheer edge>Call it 5.7J. Tree is something else. Congrats
>>2207925Depends on the climbs your doing and the rock, for me a set of cams and double set of nuts has been working fine without being retardedly expensive.
>>2207859>>2208157how is living in cali? im from the midwest so im a bit worried about cost of living around these sites. How much do you guys spend a month, whats it like?
>>2208159Thanks >>2208444Cost of living is insane, although rents are much lower in JT, gas and everything else is going through the roof. There's actually no good reason to come here other than the incredible natural beauty at this point, sad to say...having said that this is the homeless capital of the world and they just keep coming since there is free food and services around and law enforcement just looks the other way. One night late I was driving around town and someone had actually parked a bus diagonally across one of the residential streets and was asleep for the night, so it may be a great place to be a car camper here for all I know, although like I said the gas is in the mid $4 range.
>>2206989>DMMwould have been my first idea anyways. Got lots of their stuff (and I think they make/made the WC Helium too) and it's pretty good. But seems like they're still missing a full sized, standard shape D ultralight.The alpha trad is a bit weird and the spectre is quite small, I think.>>2207245>Camp biners (Nano/Photon/Dyon)Got a few of the first gen Nanos and it's pretty good (it's nano size is a pro for some situations and a con in others), but damn, that Dyon looks sweet. 11kn gate open at 33g, that's some good numbers. Guess gotta see how it handles.
>>2208505I've got specters on my cams they're decently sized, slightly bigger than my wild country asto's
>>2207452It doesn't hurt to start in doors, but really best way is to tag along with some friends and have them walk you through it. The ropes can hold hundreds of pounds and having a harness and being in control of your descent/ascent really empowers you. I think that may be where alot of fear of heights comes from, is lack of being in control.
>>2208505>>2208627Are those carabiners really safe? I wouldn't feel right without an auto-locking one.
>>2208821I mean; they're safe for quick draws. for a master point you would use at least one locker. but yes they're rated (approximately) the same as any other biner.
>>2208821Do you use autolockers as quickdraws?
>>2208875of course. for both ends of both quickdraws (always double-draw your bolts, then create a master point with two more auto-locking draws). safety first anon!
>>2208878If you got the money for that, more power to ya
>>2208821>>2208878With posts like this, I never know if it's just trolling or that weird ass american safety culture.That said: I do have in fact one locker draw, for those special situations where you have that one bolt that absolutely can not become unclipped and is to small to simply put in two draws opposed. Use it once every 20 climbs or so.>>2208627Damn, dude, you've got absolutely tiny hands…oh…wait, it's the same form as the Phantom, but bigger. Gotta check it out. Seems like DMM is moving away again from the more weird shapes (pic related).Gotta see which one is on the upper end of my size range.
Anyways, finally managed to get /out/ for climbing again after a long hiatus.Picked some weird ass chosspile, but it was above treeline, easy access and easy climbs and I really needed some views without working for it and without having to worry about the thunderstorms that where forecasted for midday-afternoon.
>>2208898that looks perfect
>>2208898Nice, hoping for some good weather next week to get out myself.
>>2208893Talk to me about these anon. I was thinking of getting some Heliums for the ends of some alpine draws (I have some Wild Country's that would match the top nicely).
>>21962745.5-5.6 outdoor at the begining, Adirondacks so much harder grades. First trad lead was a 5.2 at the Gunks with two pitches of overhung roofs to pull through (granted it was big jugs).5.9-5.10 starting indoors because I had some outdoor experience and grades in gyms are way easier.Best I was climbing was "5.12+, 5.13-" at gyms, or V6ish, did finish some V8, for actual established outdoor routes in the Northeast just 5.11a, but could only climb 5.10a or b consistently clean. Done 5.12a out West and harder stuff down in WV.Grade systems are kind of fucked, you'll go 1-3 grades in different regions and then gyms are really soft normally in my experience, by several grades.
>>2209349Old school grades. Back from when 5.9 was the hardest grade you could give, rather than "just a little spicy for the new climbers".Just another reason why dick measuring through grades is retarded
How to into ice climbing from zero climbing experience?
>>2209606Learn from someone who can and work up to it.
>>2200189That's not what a dynamic fall is for the sling though, the sling remains stationary from unloaded to loaded (but it is a bit of a shock force). Only the climber is undergoing a dynamic load. À dynamic fall with a sling would be clipping in with one, climbing above the clipping point and then falling.
>>2200606Do you tr solo? How much gear do you need for it? I need an auto locking belay or assisted braking (only have tubular style) but wonder how much I have to spend on a backup also.
>>2202852Is that a steel biner?
>>2209728Yea it's ancient but still bomber (unlike the slings Im using)
>>2203674Where tf are you bro? Ninja training?
>>2209349The Gunks man.
>>2209622Good explanation. >>2209687Where?
>>2209737Rocky Butte. Its a viewpoint there is a set of stairs on the otherside. There is also sport climbing if you hike down into the side of the hill but hobos have taken it over and made it their sty
>>2209776The nearest ice climbing place to you would be a sensible choice, alternatively solo the north face of the eiger, if you can't make it your a faggot who doesn't deserve to learn.
Managed to get up to NH for a few days and hit up Rumney and Cathedral Ledge.Some good climbing to be had, got on a few classics but sadly no multi pitch at Cathederal as we had a dog with us.
>>2207452I used to be afraid of heights as a kid, but got over it. Fear is about anticipating something going bad. When you're in the shit, you're just dealing with the situation.
>>2209142Well, they're quite light, or used to be, before the sub 30g biners came out, but AFAIK those are all quite small, whereas the Helium is quite large. I also have quite a few small biners and they definitely do have their place, but as an alrounder, I prefer the larger stuff, with a traditional, asymetry D shape, which the Helium does. Also, 9kn gate open strength isn't too bad, especially at that wheight, but looking at the Camp dyon, maybe nowadays that's low-ish?They're also no-snag/keylock, which is a pro for me.However, they're not some almost self-clipping biners as some bent gates are wire gates with a big lip are, so if that's your thing, look elsewhere.Also, they've got a big nose due to that, so if you're in an area with lots of old and/or selfmade bolts and pytons, you might encounter protection they simply won't fit.Oh, and apparently, their keylock gate tends to ice up for some people and their i-beam construction catches slush, which then freezes into place.Personally, never had an issue with it, but I'm not doing too much ice climbing, so other folks might have other opinions on that.>>2209606You don't. Ice climbing is the most retarded kind of climbing. Not only do you climb something for not real reason at all as with any climbing, you're also freezing while doing so, having ice cold water run into your arms and leaving your clothing at the socks, all the while having any oh so small fall giving you a huge potential for injuries of all kinds.t. (occasional) ice climber(but besides that: Find someone experienced or take a course)
>>2210015Those edges are all facing the wrong way
>>2210543Welcome to real rock
>>2201110Got some alpine draws to go with them been sport climbing with a full rack to get the feel of the weight and placing protection along the way