[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/o/ - Auto

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 76 posters in this thread.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]

Happy 18th Birthday, 4chan!

Janitor acceptance emails will be sent out over the coming weeks. Make sure to check your spam box!

[Advertise on 4chan]

File: CTG39a.png (3.58 MB, 2000x972)
3.58 MB
3.58 MB PNG
>2000 and older
>no hairdresser cars
>we like trucks!
>we like Lexus!
>we like oddball stuff!
Previous thread hit bump limit >>24602297

Post pics and discuss Yotas you own(ed) or wish you owned
Share tech advice and tips, when asking for advice remember it really helps if you include year, make, model, chassis code, where you are in the world generally speaking, and any other relevant details like engine type if it's engine related, etc
Complain about rust, teach newbs how to wrench, laugh at muh truck engine, brag about your high odometer scores, and bask in the general greatness that is old school Toyota!
File: hqdefault.jpg (18 KB, 480x360)
18 KB
Feels like I've forgotten something
Ah well
File: 20210222_152650.jpg (1.85 MB, 4128x1856)
1.85 MB
1.85 MB JPG
someone mention LS400?
I want one ngl
File: 20211002_184427.jpg (2.06 MB, 4032x2268)
2.06 MB
2.06 MB JPG
Fuck this red truck bros
File: greenold.jpg (283 KB, 800x600)
283 KB
283 KB JPG
What's with the Toyota market in AUS right now ? Feel like there's not much available in Victoria
File: P1000245 - Copy.jpg (1.41 MB, 1600x1200)
1.41 MB
1.41 MB JPG
Beautiful sunset tho
Thread needs some pic related
The a60 celica and the mark 2 supra run the same chassis, right? The supra just had different engine options and fancy lotus suspension?
Depends where you are in the world but for north america
Supra's 5 inch longer wheelbase
Supra and the GT-S Celica have identical suspension minus spring rates
The JDM Supra aka Celica XX had like 6 different trim and engine options
In north america all mk2 Supra's had the 2.8 and all mk3 Celica's had the 2.4
So an Australian RA65 should be using a Supra Mark 2 rear end, right? The earlier version with the 2.0 engine had a solid rear axle.
You'll have to wait for the Aussies to clock in later for confirmation on that
In north america, all our Supra's got 7.5'' rear ends, all our Celica's got 6.7'', except for a very few of the last of the 1985's that were turned into convertibles. All our GT-S Celica's were IRS, all the GT's and ST's were SRA, except for a very few 1983 GT "sport" models (badged simply as GT) that had IRS and rear drums
Now I have put two mk2 Supra rear ends into GT-S Celica's and it's a pretty easy mod
File: Celica_VIN_Plate.jpg (815 KB, 1600x1200)
815 KB
815 KB JPG
Oh also, easy to sort all this out via the VIN plate under the hood (assuming everything is stock), a T code axle will be 6.7'', an F code will be 7.5''
In pic related, T382 is the axle code
The RA65 has a 7.5" F series diff the same as the supra, but the supras (I think all of them) came with a cup and cone style LSD. The Supra also has disc brake trailing arms compared to the RA65 Drum rear end, but everything in the rear is interchangeable between the two models.

The 2.0 RA60 you're referring to had a Solid axle 6.7" T series much the same as the early AE86, but the 2.0 SA63 came with the same IRS as the RA65 and Supra only with the smaller 6.7" T series diff.
Whoops this was in reply to >>24691173
Thanks for the info
File: IMG_20211006_154416.jpg (2.26 MB, 2425x1362)
2.26 MB
2.26 MB JPG
Who at toyota thought it was okay to design the rear suspension in a way that forces you to drop the subframe in order to remove the control arms?
All they had to do to avoid is put the bolt through the other side.
Right on time brother, that's uncanny lol
I could only speculate as to why, but I will say that occasionally when I run into things like this, I stop and give it some good thought, and usually come up with a couple good reasons why
For example as a general rule, you don't want threads on leading edges, you want bolt heads facing forward, especially under the chassis
In your case it looks like it might have been a choice between either the subframe or dropping the fuel tank
What year and model is this on btw
Why is the LS 430 listed as a $$ cost to own car in the sticky? If it has "Lexus reliability" shouldn't it be an $?
Lots of reasons
They're plenty reliable but all machines still need maintenance
You've got all the luxury features that a Civic or Corolla doesn't have, so there's that alone. Then being a Lexus, parts are going to cost more than a Civic when and if they do break
There's not a big aftermarket parts demand compared to Civic either
Then being a luxury car, they're going to be heavy and subsequently have big engines which aren't going to get 50mpg
And you need 8 spark plugs instead of 4 when you do your tune up etc
not sure if this is the right place to ask because I'm not a car guy but I've got a 2000 camry and its got an issue
starting an hour ago I noticed it was leaking a little bit of gas as I was heading out, figured I'd check it out later this week but not the worst thing
but driving it I noticed a rotten egg smell and from some searching I've found its likely the catalytic converter
I've also found mixed results with some converters for 2000 camrys costing around 150, and other results saying just the converter will cost 1000+
Can anyone give me any advice?
New sticky is trash. Anyone have the old sticky saved?
First and foremost, where was it leaking gas
Do they test emissions where you live
Have you noticed any loss of power or CEL
Bad gas can smell like sulphur, so can a venting battery
Because it gets like 20-25MPG and it only takes premium fuel
In the rare case anything needs to be replaced, especially interior wise, it would cost a bit to replace.
Also air suspension ain't worth the trouble if it were to break
File: IMG_20211006_181410.jpg (454 KB, 1080x1401)
454 KB
454 KB JPG
last week until it gets parked for winter
why are you parking it for the winter
File: 000039340002.jpg (1.82 MB, 3024x2005)
1.82 MB
1.82 MB JPG
Because I live in Canada and it will rust away if not
Do you park it on a certain day or just whenever the temperature gets to a certain point?
File: IMG_2967.jpg (1.09 MB, 1600x1200)
1.09 MB
1.09 MB JPG
Why not wait for the first snow
when the time is right namaste
File: IMG_20211007_155408.jpg (2.05 MB, 4160x2000)
2.05 MB
2.05 MB JPG
Got quints today.
File: IMG_2970.jpg (382 KB, 1600x1200)
382 KB
382 KB JPG
Ahh just broken in, nice!
I've got a big one coming soon
Barely when you consider its in km so like 83k miles. I got it with shockingly low ks.
Havent posted here in a while
been occasionally takin mr2 to work instead of only drivin on weekends and Im starting to like it more and more again, it can take corners at insane speeds so im always racing to the stoplights and cornering as hard as I can
Morning bump
File: PXL_20210904_151815645.jpg (2.86 MB, 4032x3024)
2.86 MB
2.86 MB JPG
I thought only the UL trim had the airbag suspension
>only premium
Jesus. On top of the timing belt? I guess I'll just get a fucking Toyota Avalon instead.
File: IMG_2732.jpg (1.85 MB, 4032x3024)
1.85 MB
1.85 MB JPG
Ah yeah sure enough
That is really low
What's this in btw? Can't tell
Good to see you again bro
They were meant to be driven, they love it
Just be careful out there with the normies!
Impressive, I can't beat that
I can come close tho
And damn man next time wipe that thing off a bit lol
Also what's this in
It's a 97 4Runner that I bought used, drove for 130,000 miles, and turned into an offroad rig. That was right as I sold it to a friend after a weekend of wheeling it. Still in operation-original engine, trans was rebuilt once.
Nice, auto or manual trans?
File: IMG_20211007_081135.jpg (2.28 MB, 3024x4032)
2.28 MB
2.28 MB JPG
File: 2022-Lexus-NX-350-2.jpg (630 KB, 1920x1080)
630 KB
630 KB JPG
Lexus managed to make the 2022 NX look cheap with more plastic trim and a new uglier grill!
Looks like the front of a mirai got stung by a bee and has swollen up
I guess for every EV that doesn't have a grill a gas car needs to have a massive one.
What the fuck, that genuinely looks like a step back into 2012
File: 20211006_163749.jpg (3.38 MB, 4032x2268)
3.38 MB
3.38 MB JPG
Got the land cruiser back from the shop today. The compression is okay! The shop thinks it's the pump (but they're wrong). I found a guy in Edmonton who has a 2L-TE cruiser (the SWB one, LJ71) and he's got a Russian copy of the 2L-TE manual (Only the 2L-T manual is available in English). So it seems that my pump spill valve is sort of within spec but it is not getting signal from the ECU. I think it's the harness. He also got me the pinout, so I'm going to test the ECU tomorrow. If it is putting out that signal, then I've at least isolated it to the harness. Otherwisez this guy apparently has an ECU. Only catch is I am pretty intimidated by fixing a wiring harness. But now that I've got some tools in my garage and a bit of insulation, I think I'll be able to figure it out.
Hit me up if you ever want to meet up and talk toyotas
Are you in Calgary?

Wiring is easy to fix. I can come give you a hand if you want.
>Are you in Calgary?
>I can come give you a hand if you want.
Man you don't know how much is appreciate that
Auto....I have always had trouble finding 5 speed versions
File: IMG_20211008_093611.jpg (2.92 MB, 4032x3024)
2.92 MB
2.92 MB JPG
Cool, send me an email and we can work a time out to link up

cz8671o @ protonmail.com
File: IMG_2964.jpg (3.24 MB, 3000x2250)
3.24 MB
3.24 MB JPG
Friday night bump!
File: yota.jpg (173 KB, 916x960)
173 KB
173 KB JPG
>3k on facebook
Is this worth checking out? I don't know a goddamn thing about old toyotas but I never see these and 3k doesnt seem bad for a running one in the current state of things.
Are all the coupes FWD? Seller has a pic of an owners manual that says all-trac 4wd, but I can't find anything online about a coupe with 4wd.
File: yotaa.jpg (148 KB, 720x959)
148 KB
148 KB JPG
one more
Wouldn't hurt to check out the car.
File: IMG_2808 - Copy.jpg (1.44 MB, 4032x3024)
1.44 MB
1.44 MB JPG
Yeah definitely worth checking out but you better go first thing tomorrow morning with cash in hand, it won't last long at that price, assuming there's nothing horribly wrong with it
I think the last year of rwd corolla for north america was 85 or 86. Not aware of an all trac 2 door Corolla.
What's up with the plastic on that back window
Needs a window apparently lol. Guy says he'll meet me sunday morning so unless I get ghosted I'll report back.
Ah ok. Might want to shop around your local glass guys to see what replacing would cost, use that for haggling. I'd guess $300-500
Get up underneath it all around with a bright flashlight and check for rust and leaks, check any rubber bushings and boots that you can get your hands on. Generally speaking, major structural rust would be the only deal breaker, but less critical rust and any obvious leaks or bad rubber could also be used for haggling the price down.
Check the whole trunk area for water or rust and also the back seat and floorboards
Check the mileage, if it's high ask about the timing belt. Any documentation of maintenance history is a bonus
What's your interest in the car btw, reliable daily or weekend / fun / project etc
Do you think she needs a rebuild lads?

Was getting some minor rattle on a cold start and it went away when warm then it started doing it when warm slightly, checked the valves and bearings and it's fucked, crank don't look too bad though
Yeah that looks pretty bad. Details on engine / miles/km etc
File: P_20211009_143100.jpg (3.4 MB, 4000x3000)
3.4 MB
3.4 MB JPG
It's a 4age from an aw11, late bigport, about 115-120k miles. It's the one in the last thread chucking all the smoke out the back at 8200rpm

I always had a slight rattle on cold and it started when warm lately so investigated.

I'm not sure what to have done to the engine. The plan is to pull the engine, get the crank ground, new bearings for the rods and crank and that's all I know for sure. Can I get camshafts ground as mine are pretty worn also, I'm thinking of having the head skimmed and a new head gasket and maybe new valves and seals and possibly a rebore but I'm not sure, it'll mainly depend on the cost but I haven't spoken to any shops yet so haven't a clue. You got any idea on the general cost of machine work for engines? I plan to strip it all myself to save on labour costs.
>2000 and older
It was introduced before 2000, so I'll ask. What should I know before buying an IS200?
File: IMG_20211009_212529.jpg (2.72 MB, 2736x4864)
2.72 MB
2.72 MB JPG
Hello frens. Do you guys know what this groove on the flywheel side of the crankshaft is there for? Perhaps it has to do with the operation of the rear main seal?
And before you guys ask, I don't think it has been worn onto the crankshaft by the oil seal. I've Googled images of my engine's crankshaft and they all seem to have this groove. Besides, it's too deep and wide to have been made by the seal.
You should know that they made an IS300 that's much better.
I might be blind but I don't see any groove

Could you stick a big red circle around it please
They are rare here and were only offered as auto and I don't want a 20 year old slow automatic
So you'd rather get a 20 year old even slower version that gets the same shit gas mileage just because it has a Manuél?
theres literally zero Celicas on the market in my country, why must fate be so cruel /o/?
File: 1633809006443.jpg (2.93 MB, 2736x4864)
2.93 MB
2.93 MB JPG
I'd rather not have something that needs a shit break between every shift and 2 breaks before it kicks down
i thought that was just a lip on the crankshaft? doesnt look like a groove but its hard to tell on the picture, it kinda looks like an undercut
Nah, it's a groove 100%
From what I've seen on google, they all have this groove. But I'm no longer sure if it's by design, or if it's just an extremely common problem.
I was thinking about putting a speedi sleeve on the crankshaft, but if the groove is supposed to be there, then I'd rather not mess with it.
Assuming you don't need the car back on the road right away and can take plenty of time to do it right, here's what I'd do
Disassemble everything meticulously, make sure to keep everything organized so you know which bearing was which, which valve came from which cylinder etc
After that, at the very least, plan on cleaning the hell out of everything, inspecting the hell out of everything, measure it all and compare to FSM specs, see where you are and go from there
What you can have machined down is going to hinge on what replacement parts you can get and what size etc
So far as hourly rates for machine shops go it's anybody's best guess. You might find a cheap place but it takes them a month to get it done. Around here you might not even find a place to do such work. That's something to research in the mean time.
And someone more adept at building those specific engines may very well give you good advice that supersedes anything I say here, I am by no means an expert
But TL;DR clean it all up and see what's out of spec
Bells and whistles may be expensive to repair
Do you have a new or used seal you can slide on to get a better idea of about where everything lines up?
a650e aint that bad with some valve body modifying
holds like 600hp in gear btw
It's hard to tell, but the lip of the seal either rides in the groove, or right next to it. If I had to bet, I'd say that it sits in the groove.
right now im just planning on getting all the shit to pull the engine, then i'll disassemble everything and clean it and go from there. I'm surprised it wasn't knocking harder with how bad the bearings are

ive got a backup old fiesta and an old gs125 i rebuilt to get me to work and back, its only 8 miles away so ill be fine, just really miss driving the mr2
Seems weird either way tbqh but I'm guessing wear
Adding a groove only further complicates other things, and you'd think would only be done if there was no other way to seal it. I've never seen a front main with a groove like that cut into it on purpose, but truth be told, I can't remember the last time I saw a toyota rear main seal of any sort, so take what I say with a grain of salt, it's just my best guess
There should be a factory allowable max wear spec tho so if you can measure the difference with a micrometer you'll be g2g
Cool man well, fingers crossed that the bearings took the beating and everything else is ok
At one point in time tho, you definitely had some water and or abrasives in the oil, unless I'm seeing things
I say you but I mean the car ofc
File: IMG_20211009_213230.jpg (2.59 MB, 2680x1507)
2.59 MB
2.59 MB JPG
I'll try finding the wear spec. But I think it should be fine 2bh.
The source of my main rear seal leak was probably the outer edge of the seal. I've never seen anything like it, but it seems like the seal shrank or some shit, and started spinning inside the seal bracket along with the crankshaft.
I can clearly recall that when I was putting the seal in approximately two years ago, it went into the bracket real tight. I drove it in with a rubber mallet.
However when I went to remove the seal today, it just fell out of the bracket. Inside of the bracket there seems to be signs of the seal spinning inside of it.

What the hell could have caused this and has this ever happened to anyone else?
Rep manual says nothing about the allowed wear :(
Fuck it I'll just sleeve it and have a clear head.
If a rear main seal only lasts 2 years then yeah something is wrong, but I could only speculate
Some seals now seem like they're made from some kind of plastic versus the old metal wrapped in rubber style
Or perhaps you or a previous owner or shop monkey drove it in slightly sideways or overcleaned the retainer ring where it seats
Break out the calipers and measure each in several different places for out of round
Did you check the service spec section at the end just to be doubly sure
I glanced at a 5M manual just now and didn't see anything fwiw but I'm on my way out the door and couldn't study it for long
File: crank_cracks_or_damage.jpg (125 KB, 851x714)
125 KB
125 KB JPG
I looked at the 5M manual a little closer and found "inspect the crankshaft for cracks or damage"
Kind of ambiguous and up to interpretation but cracks? Having a hard time wrapping my head around that
>Or perhaps you or a previous owner or shop monkey drove it in slightly sideways or overcleaned the retainer ring where it seats
Well, maybe. I'll check the roundness and see how the new seal fits into the retainer.
Though I don't like doing it this way, I'll probably put some RTV on the outer side of the seal to hopefully prevent it getting loose again.
Yeah, not much to go on.
Any idea what wheels these are?
File: IMG20211004172800.jpg (3.2 MB, 3000x4000)
3.2 MB
3.2 MB JPG
how much blowby is too much? i took my oil cap off and theres more gas coming out of there than the exhaust pipe
I've never seen one spin like you describe so I'm just guessing lol
If it really just fell out then consider scuffing the surface inside the retainer and putting rtv on the edge that's intended to hold it in place, I don't think just putting some on the outside will last long
Hell man consider getting a new retainer
Based on the center cap I'd say Eagle or possibly Prime
Nice that they lined the dot up with the valve
Most if not all the vehicles I've owned do this. For sure all the Toyota's I've owned do, to the extent that if you drive with the oil cap off, it will blow all the oil out eventually
I've always been told it's PCV related and nothing to worry about, and after several hundred thousand miles across multiple vehicles I tend to believe it
But you can check your rings with a wet and dry compression test if you're worried, and smell the oil on the dipstick, or send some oil off and have it tested
Other potential causes could be stopped up cat or muffler, a low range pressure gauge tapped into the exhaust ahead of the cat and or muffler will tell you, there should be little to no restriction. I want to say 1psi or less
Valve seats and valve seals are possibilities too but any of the above is going to cause other problems that should be obvious
Are these cheap engine stands any good? I just want one to put my 4age on once I pull it, doesn't have to be super duper or anything

Also any ideas on the best way to drop an engine from an aw11? I plan to just make a frame above the car, get the rear jacked up high and use an engine leveler and block and tackle to lower the engine onto some wood with wheels and roll it out
File: 1992-toyota-soarer.jpg (79 KB, 790x474)
79 KB
Is midnight blue ourcolor?
i'll probably leave it be then, every seal has long since turned to brittle plastic and it idles like an absolute turd
i accidentally pulled a vacuum hose off while the engine was running and the idle didnt change kek
Should be fine just double check all the hardware before you use it in case there's something stupid like a nut with no threads and yes I've seen it before
Just don't let it run lean man, make sure you're not sucking in unmetered air, it'll burn up quick like that. All that stuff should be pretty cheap and easy to fix. I had some similar issues recently with rubber vacuum lines that had turned to hard plastic
I am also curious about what year and model this is. What Toyota's had sub-frames? I think the MR-2 did, and since the gas tank is right there I'm assuming that we're talking about a rear sub-frame.

As to the question of why Toyota didn't put the bolt through from the other side? Since the bolt would likely protrude thru the nut it would increase the risk of puncturing the fuel tank in an accident.

But it's usually not too hard to drop the sub-frame. You don't need to remove it from the car you just need to lower it enough to get the bolt out. You can probably leave one side of the sub-frame attached to the car and just lower the side with the control arm bolt.
Mk3 supra was the best starter car in GT1 & 2. Change my mind
handled like shit compared to the FC RX-7
File: suspension.jpg (1.34 MB, 3603x3023)
1.34 MB
1.34 MB JPG
just checking in with you guys on putting the s550 mustang independent suspension in the mk2 supra project

Turns out the stock upper shock mount should work and so will an adjustable version of the mustang sway bar end links

only thing that needs doing is to revise the lower shock mount.

But otherwise it's pretty much done
yeah i bought new vacuum hose yesterday but theres a couple moulded ones ill prob need to order from toyota
would a vacuum leak cause awful fuel usage? i'm doing about 300 kms a tank right now
Oops it's still faster though
File: 1592625091966.jpg (140 KB, 1091x819)
140 KB
140 KB JPG
I think most of them had sub frames of some sort after a certain point in time, only ones I'm not sure about would be the tiny ones like the Tercel and Starlet going back to the 70's / early 80's
Dude that's awesome, What's next on the bigger picture plan?
It could yeah, it can go either way depending on 100 variables. If you've got a MAP sensor somewhere on the intake manifold (vs a MAF ahead of the throttle body) and a bunch of vacuum leaks, the ECU will try to add a bunch of fuel to compensate for the extra air. It's the exact opposite for a MAF or vane air meter
Meant to add pic related regarding dropping the engine
The feels.

Same in Switzerland
If I buy an LS 400 or an LS 430, should I just replace the air suspension with some traditional springs?
File: 20200521_161905.jpg (3 MB, 4032x1960)
3 MB
thanks for using my pic dont got new ones
shop lift always busy cant drive the shitbox
a couple of mods and itll blow right by that pigfat gt coupe, no amount of autistic adjustments to the suspension will make a MK3 handle better than an FC
fuel and brakes are next major concern
Hey that's local. Want to check it out?
Where do you get your rear inner tie-rods?
File: 1605003406581.jpg (21 KB, 500x286)
21 KB
help. 98 tacoma dude here again. got the truck back from the shop. on the way back to my house 4 miles away it got up to 230f. before the blown gasket it was getting to 200f at normal operating temp. maybe touches 215f during the summer at its worst. i flushed the coolant which was dirty. they said they changed it but i don't think they did. anyway i flushed it and took a drive and the engine was shaking and my check engine light was flashing. i was only a mile away so i just drove back home like that. what the heck is wrong? its acting like the gasket is still broken but worse because it wasn't even overheating when i drove it after flushing. it only got to 180f. i did have the heater on though to help it circulate better just for that time. i drove like 10 miles altogether after flushing. at idle its at 900rpm and settles to 750rpm. the coolant looks clean now. also the lines to where the transmission fluid are meeting with the radiator are leaking. that solves that problem but thats unrelated
So I just bought a sera yesterday (picrel). Its in pretty great condition, I just have to do a few minor things to it. I plan on changing oil, brake fluid, all new drums in rear.
I have three main issues.
>my front rotors are totally out of production and im not able to find them anywhere. I can find later year ones that have the same dimensions except they went up in center bore from 54mm->55mm. Would it be an issue to drive around with a half mm gap on all sides of the center of the rotor or would I have to get them machined
>also how do I tell if my cv axle is bad. The boot is ripped however it looks like there is still plenty of grease left in it. I did not hear any noises when I was driving the car. Is there any visual indications I should look for in a cv axle to make sure its ok? Also how easy is it to reboot an axle? Ive replaced axles before but never rebooted one.
>lastly would it be a good idea to drain and fill my automatic trans with new fluid. Everything is unknown with the car as it is an import. Do you think I should reuse my old fluid and just replace the transmission filter? Or definitely add new fluid. I will need to regasket the transmission pan and take the axle off so Im definitely going to have old fluid coming out of the car

Sorry about the blogpost thanks for any help you can give me
Can't for the life of me figure out what that other red car is
Probably, if it's not working
Thank you for the good pics!
Sweet! It's all downhill from here?
Not my car or pic, that's from an anon last year that dropped his engine
Why was it at the shop again and what did they do?
Those are neat cars and rare, congrats!
The front rotors, you need to see if they're hub centric or lug centric. IF and it's a big iff, they line up perfectly on the lugs alone and there's no play then it's probably safe, anything less than that you need to explore other options
Don't ever take any chances with brakes and steering
If the boot's ripped then the axle is about to be bad in very short time. If you can get a new axle go ahead and get one, save your old one to reboot and learn on, and best case have a spare.
With a car like this you can't have too many spares
How many miles or km and how does it feel shifting currently?
>Can't for the life of me figure out what that other red car is
Alfa Romeo Giulia Sprint GT
I miss my GS 300. Someone stole it at the airport in long term parking. I came back from a month job and it was gone. Who the fuck would steal a 1999 car?
My Tacoma search never ends
>low mileage low price with rear locker has a suspicious frame and is filthy
>low price clean one in the color I like the most has check engine light at 300k miles - and disappeared before I could even go look at it
>One that seems to be the best value is on the opposite corner of the country
It's so weird how the rear locker only seems to come in one color or why it wasn't standard with the 4x4. Otherwise it seems like the only people selling Tacomas are trying to be rid of an engine waiting to grenade itself.

Probably have an air bubble in the system. You also should've taken off the thermostat too until you were certain coolant had filled the system.
never took off the thermostat but temps never got hot after flushing. i got it real got when flushing and had the heater going full blast for awhile. do you think that the misfire was from the engine overheating because i had air? i did have to top it off again afterwards but i wouldn't have thought 30oz would lead to overheating and misfiring
The thermostat doesn't need to come out if you're just refilling, but you definitely needed it to warm up while you could add coolant to the radiator. Turning on cabin heater is just an indication of how warm the coolant is.
Is it running okay now that you topped it off? Don't take off the radiator cap while it's still hot but that's how most air bubbles are going to leave the system.
i take the radiator cap off while its 180f according to my obd2 device its very warm but it doesn't hurt. isn't hot air an indicator of thermostat hot enough to let in fresh coolant to circulate the engine and dilute the filthy coolant trapped in there? anyway heating problem i had earlier is solved. the coolant was dirty and probably had air i don't remember i was just happy to see that nasty water gush out of there. i got a cylinder 2 misfire according to obd2. i'm going to check to see if the spark plug gap is good using my feeler gauges and to see if its wired in the correct order. 1. 3. 4. 2. is number one cylinder the one closest to me when standing in front with the hood open?
>will be getting the car back from the shop once the new wheels arrive
>all the little problems that I had with it are finally sorted by either doing it myself or going to a professional for the less wrenchlet-friendly stuff
>lost girlfriend in the meantime
>car just reminds me of her now
What do you do when getting in the driver seat makes you feel hollow inside
File: 1611526379053.jpg (1.59 MB, 4160x2340)
1.59 MB
1.59 MB JPG
>>24714470 me
they didn't change the spark plugs from when i had an overheated engine with blown head gasket. i'm having misfires now. but the head gasket seems fine. the engine shakes. i'm getting new spark plug wires and spark plugs. one of the wires would not come out and i bent or it was already broken and one of the connectors on the coil pack thing side was shorter than the others. maybe that wasn't giving a good connection. anyway this is the picture of my spark plugs. manual says .8mm and i have a feeler gauge and they are all good. should i change them out? the pic is them they are all like this one
>>24714808 me
the ceramic white parts do not have cracks. and no other wear besides looking like they are like survivors from some post apocalyptic dystopia. they are the copper, nickel plated ngk r exact item number which are listed in the manual along with desco
About to buy an 82 Toyota tercel. From what I've seen it's really well taken care of by the boomer who owns it. Are there any things I should watch for?
Ah ok very nice. Is it yours by chance?. Unless it's a Spider or GTV6, I can't tell an Alfa without seeing the front end first lol
Lots of people I suppose, as interest in great cars from the past has risen steeply in the past few years
That's some shit luck tho man, I guess the airport has no liability and or video footage eh?
You're looking for a first gen right
Cylinder order is 1-4, fan to firewall
If the shop did the head gasket, they should have changed the coolant, regardless of how new or used it was before. But they may not have even looked at the plugs and wires. I'm not making excuses for the shop, just saying it's typical, especially if you came with your own parts and or told them exactly what you wanted done, shops hate that
Take a pic of your coil pack with wires removed if possible and yes you should change the plugs and wires
A flashing CEL is often an indicator of trans problems or cat / o2 sensor problems
Remember that the car won't betray you unless you actually do something wrong to it. You take care of it and treat it right, it will treat you right in return
Metal, rubber, and the laws of physics don't give a damn about your feelings, and that's what makes things in the technical world such a pleasure compared to people. 500 ohms will always be 500 ohms. A resistor won't wake up tomorrow and decide it wants to be a capacitor
Rust, get up underneath it with a bright flashlight and inspect every square inch
It never makes me feel hollow. Just being in the driver seat, even if it is my daily shitbox corolla, makes me feel great. Guess I never attached my cars to someone else and just really love them.
May as well replace them if you're doing plugs.

>You're looking for a first gen right
Yes. Likely with the facelift but anything that has managed to survive ~20 years of winters, bad drivers, neglect, and offroad mods is getting hard to find. The ones that don't seem to have issues are way out of reasonable budget but I might be too picky trying to get a manual 4x4 with the v6.
I don't know how they did it but second gen are really fucking ugly and happen to jump on the trend of trucks becoming pigfat.
What's the best to get if I want something that feels old school and sportsy and isn't too expensive? Like if the ae86 didn't have the star power (and consequent price tag) Initial D has given it.
thats bretty fucked. they probably put it on a fuckin flatbed too, can't exactly start these cars with an immobilizer
After burping my zzw30 it still feels like there is air in the system. I did a few times by just letting out the bubbles on the two front valves then I did it twice, letting the engine run between the two burps but even after that the water level rose higher after a longer trip. Now I finished doing a proper burp, running the engine for 30-40 minutes on idle, the back raised a bit, heating on max and keeping the burp valves open. Am I supposed to be out of the forest with this method?
I already checked the system, it's not leaking anywhere, I even bought a new pressure cap for the reservoir.
>Ah ok very nice. Is it yours by chance?
I wish. Just parked next to the car because I like beautiful classics.
oops I did a "couple of mods" to my car now too
ok i changed the spark plugs and spark plug wires and it stopped misfiring and shaking and no check engine light flashing and no engine dying down and then perking up again when at idle. you'd think after giving them $3,200 they would make sure it was running. i spent 100 in those parts but i know its done right and the parts are an upgrade and not instead a cheap liability. ok one last thing though. i'm hearing clakering as if something lose or something while the engine is running. it was happening before with the misfiring but i thought that was part of the misfire. no this is something else. any ideas?
>>24715965 me
also short term fuel trend is like -5% to -15% and long term fuel trim is like +8%. can someone explain? is it just correcting itself because i fixed it?
Sera guy here
The car has 58,000 miles on it but the trans fluid looks a little dirty. Not super bad but definitely dark.
As far as the axles go mine are hard to come by. The axle itself is the same as a Tercel but my hub splines are different. Could I get an axle frankensteined at a shop with the end of my old axle and the rest of a new axle?
In either case the car will be delivered Saturday and ill have to take a look again to see what I should do
File: 20210929_145348.jpg (1.18 MB, 2419x1360)
1.18 MB
1.18 MB JPG
So I'm getting that itch again.
The available routes for me to do something with this car (swap, 7mgte turbo kit, cam upgrade) aren't looking too reasonable. Every option has excess cost or reliability concerns - one of the reasons nobody really fucks with these engines. That said, I think I've done basically everything I have the skills to do and think it's time to move on to something more practical (as opposes to just being a toy) Curious if any ctg bros would want to buy her off me?
It's got an R title, rust, no AC but is a 9/10 mechanical resto. Every big maintenance item is taken care of. Manual swap, digital dash, coilovers etc.. those of you who've been in ctg a while know what I've done to it. Ideally I'd like to get 7-8k for it.
If the trans runs fine leave it for now as per the other things I'm pretty sure it's under pinnings are Ae101/levin or corolla of similar years since that's how Toyota rolled back then.
If it were the same continent, I'd give her a new and caring home.
>how they did it
95-05 was when things started to get stupid across the board, specifically, consumers started caring more about bells and whistles and chrome and leather, than old fashioned things like quality and reliability.
Thankfully, a few manufacturers decided to keep quality and reliability on the menu anyways. So don't discount 2nd gen just based on looks. Likewise don't discount the previous gen either. It's easy to make a truck into whatever you want. Well easier than a car. And factory diff locks were rare af back in the day but again, relatively easy to add
Anything with a manual trans and 30+ years old tbqh
Idk about the zzw30 but the AW11 has like a 3 page bleeding sequence in the FSM, I can post if you like. Also don't know if you can use a bleeder funnel on that setup but if you can, you should, Everyone should have a bleeder funnel
Amen brother
>you'd think after giving them
No man, by default I make no assumptions and have no expectations. That's why like it or not I try to do all my work myself, I've been hearing this same story like yours for 25+ years
In the realm of normal things, it's either knock (if only under acceleration) or the timing chain (worse on cold starts then lessens as temp and oil pressure rise) or normal valve noise
What exactly did you end up having the shop do again?
I'll get back to you on the fuel trim after dinner but it's probably too soon to tell, reset the whole system with your tool if you can or just pull the negative wire off the battery for 30 minutes
At 58k you can safely change it and clean or replace the filter, but don't power flush the trans or anything like that, just drop the pan and whatever comes out, put that much back in
Too rich for my blood but man. If you want another project just get another project and keep the Cressi as a backup. If a year or two from now everything is good then sell it
the trim is balancing short term and long term so its all good there.
>or the timing chain (worse on cold starts then lessens as temp and oil pressure rise
i would think this is it, sounds the closest to the truth but ever since i put in new spark plugs and new spark plug wires it sounds and acts better than when i first got it. the clakering stopped
>What exactly did you end up having the shop do again?
new gasket, new head because they said the machine shop said its too fucked, new timing chain

i have a coolant leak. my head gasket was not partially blown from before i got it as i assumed and then got worse. no, it leaks when its most under load i think. no puddles no evidence. i'm buying uv dye and a good uv flashlight to find the source. idk what i'm doing. radiator isn't too expensive..
>>24717348 me
i assumed it was leaking from the blown gasket. now i don't know
Where are you? I'm from the midwest and would definitely buy that from you.
Eastern PA
Well shit, I'm in Ohio. How bad is the rust?
File: 20210915_132900.jpg (2.16 MB, 4608x2592)
2.16 MB
2.16 MB JPG
I can post pics tomorrow but basically
>early stage rot on the lower corners of the rear door sills
>bubbling paint at lower corners of rear fenders with a little rot behind the rear wheels
>evidence the fear fender lips themselves were rust repaired previously
>some light rust under the A pillars
Structurally there is no rust. Here's a pic of the undercarriage. I basically have no info about the cars history, but I can guess it was passed around/sat neglected by some POs. I can only vouch for the work ive done which is basically everything mechanical.
File: 20211012_015910.jpg (628 KB, 2224x1251)
628 KB
628 KB JPG
Good night bump
Lol alright well if everything else is fine then you better find that leak
Also I don't think I'd go back to that shop unless there's no other way. Pretty sure I could have driven down there and done the work for half the cost in half the time with hand tools in your parking lot
Not trying to be critical or an ass btw, just giving you something to think about
It's got 10x less rust than my GT-S lol
File: 1619430095209.jpg (161 KB, 700x713)
161 KB
161 KB JPG
>Pretty sure I could have driven down there and done the work for half the cost in half the time with hand tools in your parking lot
Not trying to be critical or an ass btw, just giving you something to think about
yeah dude i know and i agree and thats where i want to be
File: 20210625_204712.jpg (882 KB, 2419x1360)
882 KB
882 KB JPG
>It's got 10x less rust than my GT-S lol
That's frightening.
For a car that's been in PA it's entirely life its actually impressive how not-rusty it is. I just don't have the motivation to both dump money into the engine and eventually fix the rust.
This car will either be sold to another enthusiast who will care for it, or a jdm retard with too much money. This definitely isn't the nicest cressida, but I'd be willing to but its among the mosted mechanically sorted. I regularly drive it an hour to work.
File: gWyEl7U.jpg (1.78 MB, 4032x3024)
1.78 MB
1.78 MB JPG
1/3 I'm the w58 swapped sc400 guy, got a pile of updates. New clutch is fully broken in and feels fantastic, no heavier than stock but has even more holding power than the outgoing clutch did. I'm still gathering suspension parts, most recently had to buy a rear subframe since mine has a couple of cracks. Going to get it reinforced and have new bushings put in. I also did a seafoam treatment for the first time ever, did the whole 3-part treatment. Last but not least I cleaned the hell out of the interior, vacuumed, scrubbed the carpets, wiped down everything, even scraped with q tips and toothpicks around the buttons and little crevices that a cloth couldn't reach. Feels good to look at it now.
File: J2VXcDy.jpg (1.55 MB, 4032x3024)
1.55 MB
1.55 MB JPG
2/3 Getting a new e-brake boot and center armrest cover and having the steering wheel restored once I find a good upholstery place. Floormats were still drying when I took the pic. My seats are pretty thrashed so I just have cheapo covers on em for now.
Looks great bro. That's a dream setup
File: SaOEZPa.png (38 KB, 1080x405)
38 KB
3/3 last but not least I ordered a tps enhancer from this kiwi boomer who tunes 1uz's. It makes the throttle open more completely, most typical 1uz's only open 70% at full throttle. This increases it to 80-90%. Gotta love the favorable exchange rate too. Video for context and a better explanation than I could ever do https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SGl6o6CHWgA
Same for me. Looks really non-janky too!
Thanks, it's honestly amazing how easy it is to do a W58 or R154 swap on this chassis. Fits almost as if it was meant to be oem.
I mean on the models that never saw a manual transmission
Good on you to recognize that
I'm not going to go on and on about it but playing with some numbers, even doubling the cost of the most expensive parts and $150 an hour labor, idk how they got to that figure
But hey man it is what it is. You do what you gotta do amirite, live and learn
>how not-rusty
Ye I know. Believe me man it's not much better down here. It's this new abstract trifecta of winter stupidity. The DOT sprays this shit on the road in the middle of the day like a day or two before it snows. It dries and then all the traffic running over it makes a huge dust cloud, most of it's gone from the road when the snow arrives but that dust has penetrated every nook and cranny on everyone's vehicle lol
Then you've got cars and people themselves. More cars than ever before are AWD and loaded down with traction control and abs yet no one knows how to drive in the snow
Total tangent and I'm sorry but since winter's right around the corner I've been getting mad thinking about it lol
Anyways I know it's in good shape man, I've been paying attention over the past year and a half. And I also realize exactly the value of a car that's had everything gone over and basically documented step-by-step here in these threads.
I hope YOU realize you'll be losing all that and starting over from square one no matter what the next car is. Doesn't matter how old or new or how much it costs
What clutch did you use and where did the rear subframe crack?
Just because I used to work in an upholstery shop here's a word of caution - have them do the seats first as a test of quality, then ask if they'd like to do the steering wheel after you see what they can do. A mistake in a seat is less noticeable and steering wheels are hard to re-cover
File: clutch.jpg (32 KB, 463x668)
32 KB
It's a southbend stage 2 daily. Rear subframe cracked in two places where the diff connects to the frame. It's not a through and through (yet) but it is there and is probably the main reason why I hadn't been able to get a good alignment in the rear.
I'll keep what you said about upholstery shops in mind. I'm not using a local one and won't be doing the seats for quite some time. Honestly I'll probably end up swapping the seats out entirely for some recaros that go well with the rest of the interior.
do you have pics of the aforementioned areas? I would highly appreciate it as I'm still serious about buying it lol,
whoops I meant to link one of the places I'm looking at, these guys seem pretty legit https://craftcustoms.com/photos-by-make-model/leather-steering-wheels/
Forgive the filth. Car is still dirty from driving to work monday (I work at a quarry), but this is basically all of it. Top to bottom
>rear mud guards behind the back tires (both sides)
>inside of A pillar (drivers side)
>rear/lower of passenger rear fender
>rear door sill corners (both sides)
If we get to talking seriously I'll go over everything I know about the car. It's got other body panel issues but that's it for the rust.
hey, I went to that school and also drove an ae86

parked in p1 becuase the it was cheaper tho lul
I was worried the rust was going to be intimidating, it honestly doesn't look -too- bad and seems fixable. the more and more I think about this car the more I want it.
Well depending on how actually serious you are messege me on discord and we can go over it in detail. I have 343 pictures of this car, 100 of which are just documenting maintenance.
king papi#6313
No I'm not hispanic

I added you
Good to know, thanks!
That place looks fine for upholstery. Curiously that page stops at P alphabetically lol
That's not even bad, nice
Morning bump
should I?
>I don't have a mk4 btw just an SC
File: 20210828_192719-1.jpg (1.44 MB, 3441x1936)
1.44 MB
1.44 MB JPG
File: P1000192 - Copy.jpg (488 KB, 1600x1200)
488 KB
488 KB JPG
Slow car for a slow day ahaha
File: 88Celi.jpg (338 KB, 960x720)
338 KB
338 KB JPG
Here's my 88 Celica coupe. It's my first Toyota, it's been a blast to drive this old motherfucker.
File: 4coomer.jpg (137 KB, 1200x630)
137 KB
137 KB JPG
posted this in the drag racing thread as well
That's badass.
Did you crash it or did it come precrashed?
dope car, what is it?

currently looking for a 2002 crown wagon and there's not much goin

Drove by one just like this for months early this year. Finally made my mind up to go look at and buy it if everything was close to reasonable, of course it was gone
Looks like yours is in pretty good shape, all things considered. How many miles?
Something I never thought I'd see tbqh
MX73 Cressida
Wew fuck led bulbs are stupidly expensive I was considering replacing all my taillights to led bulbs but trying to buy them locally I'm looking at around $50 nzd for a pair I don't think I can justify that shit. Considering each taillight needs 2 7440 and 2 7443 and the boot lights are another pair of them. At that point I could almost buy aftermarket taillights.
File: IMG_2853 - Copy.jpg (508 KB, 1200x1600)
508 KB
508 KB JPG
Wow that is expensive. They're like $20 a pair here in the US if you get the most expensive ones, quality is shit, I went through the same thing earlier this year when I got the altezza's for the truck
They're supposed to be super bright but they aren't bright at all. Ah well, $80 worth of spare parts chucked in the toolbox
I was a big supporter of automotive LED's when they first came out 20 years ago but I swear the quality has gone downhill across the board.
I was fascinated with LED's as a kid in the 80's and wondered why they didn't use them for everything. And they never burned out unless you put like double the voltage to them for an extended period of time
As soon as GM started putting them in Cadillac tail lights there was always something to laugh at going down the road because there was always one or two burned out or just not working at all lol /good times blogpost
pic somewhat related
File: 1513718433.jpg (53 KB, 480x360)
53 KB
I really should replace those too just cbf'd pulling the intake off the 2j to do it and if I do I'm just gonna replace the cables and coil packs too. I also kinda want to give her a rattlecan paint job because the paint is rough as fuck.

I have found some leds "locally" for much cheaper that I might try since they aren't ball breaking expensive and am contemplating buying these because they look nicer than stock.
File: 20210705_182355.jpg (1.47 MB, 2419x1360)
1.47 MB
1.47 MB JPG
File: 20210929_145744.jpg (949 KB, 2419x1360)
949 KB
949 KB JPG
File: 20210828_230907.jpg (739 KB, 2419x1360)
739 KB
739 KB JPG
Ill be doing a video walkaround with Ohio bro tomorrow. The good news is if the car gets sold to him, it won't be leaving /ctg/ so you guys will still get to see it
Should I get a turdcell?
I know people love these cars, but I don't really know much about them. My dad had one when I was a kid. Am looking for a daily/winter beater.
>no visible rust or damage
>less than 4k
go buy that shit STAT negro
File: P_20211016_203539.jpg (3.16 MB, 4000x3000)
3.16 MB
3.16 MB JPG
Engine is out boys. Tried to use a board with wheels to get it out from under the car but it didn't fit so I just dragged the fucker out
Alright Imma check it out tomorrow. How do you think it'll do in the snow?
checking out the tercel tomorrow.
Is this going to be okay for highway driving?
Yeah it really is just a gamble on LED's
I'm a big fan of rattlecan paint jobs, grab a random orbital sander from harbor freight and a pack of various grit discs if you don't already have plans to scuff, it's worth the extra time and money. A big can of paint thinner and some tack cloth to clean everything right before spraying helps too. 90% of a good paint job is prep
Here's something for everyone to think about tho in regards to lighting, both bulbs and housings. My Toyota's are 37 and 28 years old. I got the altezzas for the truck just because they were cheap. Come to find out my stock housings were starting to deteriorate. But 4 of the 6 bulbs were original Koito and still working just fine. Replaced the license plate bulbs on the GT recently and same thing. That's pretty impressive for a 39 cent bulb in 1984. Realize nothing made today will last that long, so if you plan on keeping your car forever, grab an extra pair of aftermarket housings
What's that mark on the hood and headlight, spraypaint?
If there's nothing wrong with it, it'll be fine on the highway. It'll do well in the snow if you know how to drive in the snow. If we're talking tons of driving in tons of snow then you might consider getting some snow tires for the front, studs if you can run them, and some extra weight inside because they are light cars
Das it mane, good job
>What's that mark on the hood and headlight, spraypaint?
not sure. Checking it out in person tomorrow
>If there's nothing wrong with it, it'll be fine on the highway.
good to know
>some snow tires
fortunately it comes with snow tires on rims

There is going to be lots of snow driving. It's this or a subaru impreza for $3k. I know the subaru will be better in the snow, but I figure this will be more reliable, better on gas, and possibly more fun to drive
98 tacoma dude here. radiator has leak at some rust spots and cap leaks at high rpm. i'm going to the stealership tomorrow to get factory cap and radiator. also the transmission was leaking at the radiator transmission cooler connection so that solves that. i bought some uv dye and its showing me everything. ok now apart from that, at idle short term fuel trim is -7.8% then -5% then -3% then +1.5% then -7.8%. this repeats. at idle, long term fuel trim is +3.6%. it makes that ticking sound and i think its the timing chain tension not correct, idk. nothing else is out of the ordinary besides at idle it kinda sounds like its going up and calming back down. this was more pronounced with the misfires that were happening because the spark plug wires where fucked up and the spark plugs were worn. idles rpm from cold engine start in park 1200 and in drive at idle it is 850, if that tells you anything idk. anything insight into any of that? before all this, idle rpm was lower and it didn't make that ticking sound and i don't think the engine was making noise up and dying down and back up but idk
Can I hand crank an engine that has no oil? I want to check the compression of my engine before a rebuild to get an idea how the rings are doing, I drained the oil about a week ago
I've got an awd impreza short wagon and haven't been impressed with it at all in the snow tbqh, but it's an auto 2.5. I'd rather throw a set of chains on the truck. Now my buddy has a couple outback wagons and they do great in the snow. I also had an 85 4wd GL wagon back in the day and it was a tank in the snow
Anyways the Tercel will definitely be easier on gas, easier to work on and cheaper to maintain in the long run that's for sure
Those FT's are within normal range, especially for a high mileage engine, so put that on the back burner for now, just keep an eye on them
A little ticking is normal and probably a result of your new head... but with sounds, unless you're there in person to hear it, it's almost impossible to tell for sure. Does the ticking go away if you raise the rpm to 2-3k? You could pick up a cheap mechanic stethoscope and try to pinpoint where it's coming from
The tension is set automatically by a spring, and when the engine's running, by oil pressure. You get a new tensioner in a timing chain kit, assuming they replaced it, you should be fine there.
Right now I would just focus on getting your cooling system in good shape
If the engine's still intact and in the vehicle, I'd put some cheap oil back in it and do it the normal way.
Theoretically you can do it by hand but each cylinder is going to need 6-10 rpm's for maximum accuracy, plus you really want to do dry and wet, and that's an awful lot of hand cranking. Also if there's any leakdown you may not be able to see it, doing it by hand
you can always throw the bell housing and starter back on it, fill it with supertec or some other cheap shit and have fun.
the subaru 4eat does well in the snow, idk what year you have but it would be better if you had a later model with a 4eat phase 2 version 2 because those have a better center diff than the phase 1/2 version 1.
they also struggle more if you lack a rear lsd, after putting a lsd in my forester it refuses to be stuck.
Any recommendations on exhaust headers for an AW11? Just bought one used and (among other issues) the exhaust manifold is cracked.
I'd like to know too, can't seem to find one that fits the standard 16v, only the stock cast iron one
Cool man I appreciate the tips
It's an '02 TS so I assume phase 2 version 1
Part of the issue is, I don't drive auto, ever, this is the first one I've had in about 15 years. And I have a really high personal benchmark for comparison, I had a bunch of Audi 4kCSQ's back in the day and they were simply unbelievable. Real shame they were so expensive and never caught on. Hands down the best cars I've ever owned
Is the one on it stock or aftermarket and likewise, which one of those are you seeking
I'm no AW11 expert so idk if they're prone to cracking but my first instinct would be just get a used stock manifold and run it until you rule out any additional issues that may have caused the first one to crack
Its a stock. Was cracked and then welded. Was leaning towards aftermarket.
Definitely not rust free but not awful. Good has hail damage but not awful. Windshield cracked but not awful.
Just took it for a spin. The car runs perfect. A/C is ice cold. Power steering is perfect. Engine/trans are good. A little low on coolant though. Needs new brakes. Only worries are rust on the front suspension area. Not sure how good it will be for winter or highway driving though. A bit wobbly at 110 km/h. Barely goes to 120 km/h. Comes with three sets of wheels:
>Original all seasons on steelies
>Summers on the rims on the car
>Winters on old school Enkeis
File: 20211017_124859.jpg (2.02 MB, 4032x2268)
2.02 MB
2.02 MB JPG
File: 20211017_123817.jpg (1.88 MB, 4032x2268)
1.88 MB
1.88 MB JPG
ah so the shitbox version impreza, I think P2V2 started in '05. You'd definitely benefit from a LSD, just make sure to match your current ratio to the new one.
1st gear on the P2V1 4eat locks both front and rear to 50/50 distribution and doesn't do the wacky dynamic 90/10 split that the MPT center diff is famous for, which they fixed with the VTD in P2V2.
k im done with the subaru transmission information
That amount of rust might be normal for a tercel in your neck of the woods, the wheel balance is probably off if it wobbles at speed. But I wouldn't be surprised if the bushings are worn out too.
Really a car +3 sets of tires is a pretty good deal for 2k in the current market.
File: 20211017_133508.jpg (2.34 MB, 4032x2268)
2.34 MB
2.34 MB JPG
Pretty nice wheels too
But the other car I'm looking at is a 2006 Impreza 2.5 for $2500. Seems worth the extra $500 vs the tercel, much as I love old Toyotas. I think the tercel would definitely be worth it for $1200ish.
Cool man well I definitely appreciate the info and will keep all that in mind. Most likely tho it's getting sold sometime in the near future, as it's the 4th vehicle and much as I'd like to keep it, it's in great shape too btw, I can't really rationalize having 4 vehicles
Shame because the Subaru's the one you want 3 sets of matching wheels and tires for lol
>I can't really rationalize having 4 vehicles
you're talking to two tone gts guy, luv me 4 vehicles.
Midnightish bump
File: DSC_0044_1080.jpg (650 KB, 1920x1080)
650 KB
650 KB JPG
>I think the tercel would definitely be worth it for $1200ish.
Remember when the good ones were $600 cars?
I can talk your ear off about 4cyl subarus, I work on so many of them plus my own it's unreal (PNW).
random archive pic
>Remember when the good ones were $600 cars?
well the subaru I checked out was absolute garbage. It wasn't that old and not that high mileage, but I don't think I've ever actually seen a more badly maintained car in my life. Every single aspect of that vehicle scared me. Just noped right out of there.
Like I said in your other thread, no one gets rid of a perfectly good subaru at this time of year.
File: 20211017_152127.jpg (3.12 MB, 4032x2268)
3.12 MB
3.12 MB JPG
I can’t wait to hear this thing in person
Where should I look for body parts for old Toyota pickups? When my grandad died my dad abused the hell out of his 1980 SR4 and now that I've got ahold of it I want to start restoring it.
goddamnit. I went through this last year too.
It's said a lot but you really do have to hear it in person. Videos can't translate
File: _DSC0103_1440.jpg (1.69 MB, 2160x1440)
1.69 MB
1.69 MB JPG
old pic
tfw my clear was already starting to haze in '18
I just don't have the space, plus it's three 22R's and then the Subaru. What I actually need, if anything, is a 4wd truck. That I could rationalize having
Anywhere and everywhere possible for a project like that. West coast US will probably have the best results. Make a list of everything you need or want. If the opportunity to pick up a whole vehicle comes up, jump on it. They're super simple trucks, they don't take long to strip down to the frame
Past that all the usual places, CL, FB, Ebay, make friends with all your local yards and shops and put word out for what you're looking for. It's going to take some effort for sure
Wish I had kept my '78, that was one of the stupider things I got rid of in the past
Looks great tbqh. Is that natural lens flare / starburst on the lights? Your pics are always top notch man
So what are you going to try to get to fill the void if you sell it
File: _DSC0492.jpg (919 KB, 2160x1440)
919 KB
919 KB JPG
>Is that natural lens flare / starburst on the lights?
yep, the original kit lens produces flares like that with a long enough exposure, 30 seconds in that pictures case. My prime lens which I use for everything now is a lot less exaggerated, picrel is a 20 second exposure time. Sometimes with different cars it just produces a glow around the light.
Somebody bought this before me, sad
Oh well, where I live it was probably gonna get destroyed by winter
Hello. This is my immaculate Toyota.
>So what are you going to try to get to fill the void if you sell it
File: d4ba06f05dd15f6d.jpg (1.04 MB, 1620x1080)
1.04 MB
1.04 MB JPG
>probably gonna get destroyed by winter
Probably already was. I love this bodystyle but by heck does it rust.
but it’s a -fast- cobalt
I'm too tired to reply just going straight to bed bump
File: IMG_3320.jpg (2.42 MB, 4032x3024)
2.42 MB
2.42 MB JPG
Awesome, thanks brother
I need to dig out a tripod
You guys do realize that Toyota never intended for any of these 30+ year old vehicles to still be on the road by now, right?
Deja vu
You're kidding right
Fast to fall apart and be worthless like everything else GM has made in the past 15 years lol
Pretty clean for a midwest 3rd gen. Frame is in good shape too.
One of the coolest pics I've seen on here. Beautiful car.
File: _DSC0401.jpg (1.11 MB, 2160x1440)
1.11 MB
1.11 MB JPG
ah yes, a gobalt and not a slowbalt
>I need to dig out a tripod
having a 3-way tripod head is decently important so you can shoot on wacky inclines.
>Fast to fall apart and be worthless like everything else GM has made in the past 15 years lol
hey man, it was in need for speed most wanted!
tyty, i haven't taken new pics of it recently because i only drove it for like 2 weeks this year.
>You're kidding right
No, why?
Just bought 2 new ball joints for my hilux for $250
>You guys do realize that Toyota never intended for any of these 30+ year old vehicles to still be on the road by now, right?
What a weird question. Ya I know, just the nature of the beast.
I know someone who has a 1987 Toyota Celica GTS for sale. It has 230,000 miles on it and it is in fair condition (not good but not bad either). Is it worth buying or will I be buying a headache?
You will be buying a 34 year old car. That means everything in it is old. Rubber hoses, seals, engine, transmission, etc. You can't just go to Auto Zone to get replacement parts for it. If you have another car for your daily driver then fine get it for a fun project car but don't get it if that is going to be your daily driver because you will grow to hate it. I have sometimes waited for over a month for a part for my 1999 Toyota Crown Royal Saloon.

tl;dr buy it if it isn't your only car as those are fun cars
Yeah man, I've got a few, just need to find them and remember to put one in the car. Believe it or not I used to be a professional photographer, did my own B&W in the darkroom, did a few weddings and events. Early adopted digital in the late 90's/early 00's when 1-2mp's were a grand, been using photoshop since then too, good times.
Well I don't want to start a fight man and it's really none of my business what you get, but, it's a Chevy made in the last 16 years that isn't a truck, Camaro or Corvette for starters
It doesn't seem like a really good idea to me but that's just me
>weird question
If you like that one I've got a couple more up my sleeve
It was phrased in the form of a question but intended to be thought provoking
It legit made me sad to throw away one of my recently burned out factory original (37 year old) Koito license plate bulbs, because I knew damn well that ANYTHING I put in to replace it won't last half as long
That's one good example and I've got a hundred or more others
There's a right price for everything and they are in demand right now. I agree with what >>24747032 says with a couple of variations and it does somewhat depend on where in the world you are, and your exact situation, living and parking-wise
First off it's always a good idea to have 2 vehicles period. If one is a potential project, then bonus points if the primary is a truck
You may or may not be able to find parts at Autozone and in rare cases, maybe not at all
Then again you may be surprised, it's always worth checking. But safe to assume things like body panels, trim, switches and stuff like that are going to have to be sourced elsewhere
If it's not swiss cheese from rust, runs and drives with no major issues and it's less than $2-3k then yeah I'd jump on it. Will definitely help if you're mechanically adept and or want to learn, have tools etc
>Well I don't want to start a fight man and it's really none of my business what you get, but, it's a Chevy made in the last 16 years that isn't a truck, Camaro or Corvette for starters
>It doesn't seem like a really good idea to me but that's just me
they're surprisingly reliable, just cheap pieces of shit, except for the SS models, and the turbo held a lap record at Burgerking for all of a month
Its an economy car built to go fast. Brembos, recaros, burgerring tuned suspension and 260hp stock. Gm even offered a stage 1 package to get you to 290hp with a warranty. Despite it's obvious GM quality problems, in stock form it can track faster than s2ks, evos, wrxs, the lexus ISF and others despite costing a fraction of all of those cars. I think it's undervalued and the most slept on car on the market presently.
There's just something joyful about an economy car that makes turbo sounds, is both fast and capable, and shits on cars 4x the price.
Well, different strokes. If you were buying the one that actually set the record for like 5k I'd be slightly interested, but that's about the only way
>shits on cars 4x the price
Idk by what metric you're using to judge this but
You can have this experience with whatever you happen to be driving on any weekend at your local autocross if you have even a modicum of skill for close to nothing in cost. And I know you do, because you can drive stick. We are a very small minority. It's actually pretty fun to take something like a van or wagon or pickup, NOT performance oriented in the least by nature, and not come in last. Maybe autocross isn't your thing
If you're talking street racing
I don't know how things are up there but I can't find anyone to race me on the street anymore. It used to be a regular thing that just happened. I won't say it never happens but it's rare af and 9 out of 10 times it comes down to who has bigger balls. Plenty of fast cars around here and none of them are driven fast ever as best I can tell
If you're starting to run tracks and need a track car then that's a little different. But a track car doesn't work on the street, and vice versa without changing at least a few things
And none of this even gets into the Chevy GM aspect of things
Quality is a meaningless word until you start defining exactly what it means, but after that, be sure that it can be measured one way or another
But again, different strokes and it's all good man, just my 2 cents. I still wish you well on whatever path you choose and I mean that
File: 20210525_012157.jpg (1.84 MB, 4032x2268)
1.84 MB
1.84 MB JPG
I appreciate. Ohio bro has promised to keep up in CTG so you guys will still see the car once he has it. It will just be in different hands. He intends to fix the body issues and rust which I just don't have the funds for.
This is ultimately what it comes down to; The cressida just doesn't make the sounds i want. I can't take it on long trips without misery due insane wind noise from bad seals and poor ergonomics that cause me discomfort. I can't take the family in it due to an obvious lack of safety and inadequate restraints. I can't turbo it without risking blowing up the unicorn engine, I can't swap it without at least 5k that dont have (not that I'd even want to spend that much on top of what I have already) and even if i did the rust will just keep creeping until I address it.
As I've told other people, when I have opportunities to share the car with others its great and I love it. Can't put into words how cool it is to make someone's day and get them to flip shit over a car they haven't seen in years. However when it's just me by myself I don't get much of anything out of it. The novelty has worn off. I hope that puts things into context.
File: download.jpg (9 KB, 259x194)
9 KB
Hey guys, I'm probably going to post this in a few different spots to make sure someone sees it because this board is slow AF sometimes.

I'm rebuilding a 4A-GE for my AW11, yesterday I got the head on finally. I'm doing a turbo build with some nice forged components. I am also doing a distributor delete and running COP spark with a mega squirt ECU.

Would it be worthwhile for me to get the engine installed and running in the car without the turbo, on the same exhaust system as I currently have installed?

I figure that there are going to be a bunch of little things to work out with the new engine spark and timing management, along with the new intake manifold I have, and once things are installed well and the engine is broken in I can swap the long tube header I have out for my turbo and manifold.

What do you all think?
you're gonna end up spending more money getting it set up for NA then having to get it set up for turbo
since you're already planning on turbo'ing the 4A anyway you should just start out that way as well. you might as well break in the engine with the turbo on it
It won't cost me anything extra to have it running NA for a while though, I already have an NA 4AGE in my mr2, I could just swap this one in and have a forged components NA 4AGE while I figure out how Megasquirt works.

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.