[a / b / c / d / e / f / g / gif / h / hr / k / m / o / p / r / s / t / u / v / vg / vm / vmg / vr / vrpg / vst / w / wg] [i / ic] [r9k / s4s / vip / qa] [cm / hm / lgbt / y] [3 / aco / adv / an / bant / biz / cgl / ck / co / diy / fa / fit / gd / hc / his / int / jp / lit / mlp / mu / n / news / out / po / pol / pw / qst / sci / soc / sp / tg / toy / trv / tv / vp / vt / wsg / wsr / x / xs] [Settings] [Search] [Mobile] [Home]
Settings Mobile Home
/o/ - Auto

[Advertise on 4chan]

4chan Pass users can bypass this verification. [Learn More] [Login]
  • Please read the Rules and FAQ before posting.
  • There are 55 posters in this thread.

08/21/20New boards added: /vrpg/, /vmg/, /vst/ and /vm/
05/04/17New trial board added: /bant/ - International/Random
10/04/16New board for 4chan Pass users: /vip/ - Very Important Posts
[Hide] [Show All]

[Advertise on 4chan]

confess times you did something retarded while working on your car

>last thursday window motor regulator in my driver's side went out (for the third time)
>seethe about it but order a new one
>go to take out the old one
>while reassembling the door, try to fit the wrong plug into the wrong jack
>smaller plug fits inside just enough to mash the fuck out of the contacts
and now my power side view mirrors don't work. I have learned my lesson. I put in the new one and carefully made sure all the plugs and jacks matched before putting them back together. I hope I can just order one new part to replace the fucked up contacts and I don't have to replace the entire control array for the door.
File: CH_eDTRG_400x400.jpg (14 KB, 234x234)
14 KB
>This bleeder screw looks a little rusty, better free it up with some pb and elbow grease
>Oh well i'll just weld a nut around whats left and get it out with an impact
>SNAP! of course it broke off it was hollow...I'll just throw it on the press and drill it out
>a bore smoother than my engine
>throw in the towel and order a new caliper
>snap lug
>try to chisel it off and half ass it
>wheel won’t come off
>convinced wheel is rusted to brakes
>beat the fuck out of it with sledge hammer
>wheel fucked up but staying on
>check other wheels to see how badly rusted they are
>other wheels come off with no problem
>check where the lug snapped off on wheel
>still shit tons of lug holding wheel on
I hope phone dials are cheap
File: 1613395831123.jpg (174 KB, 587x640)
174 KB
174 KB JPG
>replacing oil pressure sending unit on jeep wj
>get the fucking clip off the unit after 30 mins because some jackass rotated the tab to face the engine block
>turn unit
>why isn't this coming out
>mfw I've been turning it to my left and not its left because I'm on my back, head towards rear
File: 1621777662034.jpg (88 KB, 696x960)
88 KB
>doing minor body work on bumper and hood
>done, slap on new wrap on it
>need to move car about one meter
>no sense to start it for such a small distance
>push it right into the garden bench
only the wrap was fucked but it really made me question my intelligence
What a fitting thread for the event that transpired only less than an hour ago

>install a new hub for the steering wheel
>looks straight, goes in slightly weird; I'll just force it in
>proceed to torque it down to spec
>go for a drive, seems a bit crooked to the right side
>start taking it off
>because my ape hands forced it in there, it's permamently stuck there
>need to remove the fucking thing somehow and hope to god I didn't completely fuck it up

I didn't choose to be this autistic, I swear
Try loosening the union and bleeding from there.
>installing new endlinks
>putting nylon locking nut on endlink
>"man this fucker is being a pain in the ass to get on"
>get it about halfway on before it just will not budge any further
>look at it more closely
>the motherfucking nut that came in the bag from the manufacturer with the endlink is not the right thread count and has stripped the entire endlink bolt up to where it currently is
>had to use an angle grinder to get it off because it broke all 3 of my remaining dremel cutting wheels

Admittedly I went gorilla mode but also fuck you whiteline
I use a pneumatic bleeder because, like most of us, I have no friends so that's not really an option. Realistically though, it's a 23 year old celica from the rust belt and I can almost guarantee this is the factory caliper. The chance of it needing a rebuild/replace was close to 100%. I do thank you for the advice though, I'd never heard of doing that in my life.
I've never personally bought their shit, but I've seen many such cases with my friends.
Have their bwr19z. No problems with it.
I wasn’t aware of the styrofoam in the bumpers of Priuses until I had to replace the headlights. I let out a very loud profanity in a crowded parking lot because I was confused after seeing it.
There has been plenty of times when I've been battling away with something only to realize that I'm doing it the completely stupid wrong way, but I can't think of any specifics right now.
I guess it all just becomes water under the bridge once you move past it.
threw a rod because i was a young idiot who thought coolant and antifreeze were two separate things lmao
Lots of ways around a snapped bleed nipple but as you say sometimes just putting on a new part saves a lot of hassle. It's possible to make a free vacuum bleeder too.
I wandered into a barn sale that was being held by a retired diesel mechanic and managed to get a truck full of his old snap-on, matco etc... equipment for 500 bucks. Otherwise I would have 100% gone the homemade route.
Just get some kelly forceps and straighten the pins?
File: 1621801436013.png (463 KB, 588x650)
463 KB
463 KB PNG
>tried to remove front crank seal using the woodscrew method
>mfw I saw the resulting gouges
>first time working on friends car 10y ago
>forget to remove front jack stand
>it's now under the seat
>fuck the floor pan
Oh well he had already crashed it and didn't notice.
Placement friend, placement
Many such cases.
Well there you go, you jogged my memory on one of my fuckups:
>doing some sort of driveline work on miata
>need jackstand under tranny because lolno gearbox crossmember
>finish work
>lower car
"Wtf I don't remember installing a lift kit"
>realize almost the entire weight of the car is now being supported by a jackstand pushing into the gearbox pushing into the trans tunnel

you bent them because they're bendable
maybe you could, uh..
cut the connectors and hardwire the fucking thing
the connectors are there for mass production - you aren't mass producing a car, you're trying to make it work
File: 1621025043363.webm (237 KB, 960x540)
237 KB
Around jacks never relax.
Lucky to still have fingers
You can tell they don't understand the gravity of what just happened and how much worse it could have been.
File: pcv.jpg (422 KB, 1440x1920)
422 KB
422 KB JPG
forgot to reconnect the iac plug
got scared when using the car because I had removed the manifold and tought I might've fucked up putting it together, causing air leaks or something, which would've been a pita to fix
he'd have lost his fingers if he wasn't so tired from jacking off
I was replacing the fuel pump on my Fleedwood and needed to lower the rear axle to drop the tank... well I unbolted the shocks while I was laying directly under the axle. Shocks unbolted, the axle got shoved down by the springs.

It stopped maybe an inch from my face. Of all of the dumbshit things I've done which brought me close to injury while working on my cars, this one still makes my blood run cold sometimes.
Did you have replace the PCV system on your T5 too?
yup, the hoses were broken in half, the previous owner tried to hold them together with a piece of hose and clamps, but that came off too.
because of this the car was leaking oil from the oil cap and from the rear camshaft seal under the distributor, which I also had to replace
my bad, have your (you)
What was the result of all this? Just the oil leaks or was it blowing smoke too?
Do you think it was building crankcase pressure to cause those leaks?
Yes, the pcv directly causes crankcase pressure buildup, which then can cause other issues
My oil cap gasket was cracked and thus it started leaking from there, I fixed that before the pcv and oil started coming out of the cam seals - my advice is that if you're in this situation fix the pcv before any of the leaks, otherwise the pressure will try to escape from worse places
As for symptoms, you can do the glove test (with the car running place a plastic glove over the open oil cap and see if it inflates, if it does it's usually a bad pcv) or see if smoke comes out of the dipstick tube, also with the car running. I also noticed some loss of power and worse mileage. Didn't have smoke coming from the exhaust.
You have several great resources on this issue and many others regarding 850s/V70s at matthewsvolvosite's forums and at volvoforums
>Be working on shitbox Nissan Sentra
>Oil change.jpg
>The filter is directly behind the engine
>3 feet off the ground
>To reach it you must noodle your arm past the suspension
>Impossible to access filter from the top, except by hand
>No filter strap thingy to unscrew it
>Only fuck-huge pipe wrench
>Insert the pipe wrench from the top
>Rest it on the suspension arm precariously
>Get on my back, underneath the car
>Reach up and grab the wrench
>Struggle to find the filter with the wrench
>Drop the wrench a couple times
>After what seemed like forever, get wrench on filter
>Oh shit now I have to tighten the wrench
>Reach up with other hand
>Struggle with that shit for eternity
>Finally, wrench is on and tight
>Turn approximately 1/69th of a turn
>My hand only travels 2 inches before the wrench hits something
>Repeat process 50 times until loose
>Then dump all the fucking oil on the ground by accident

It felt like I was performing an enema on Satan's asshole.
>replacing hub bearing assemblies on shitbox
>these bolts havent been out in 20 years, pretty stuck in
>slip a shirt piece of pipe over my ratchet to get a few extra inches on the handle
>simply cannot undo this bolt no matter how hard i push
>angle jack plate under ratchet handle thinking that as i jack the handle up the bolt will break free
>start pumping
>jack plate makes contact with ratchet handle, game time mother fucker
>after a few pumps of the handle the front end of the car begins to move
i lifted my car off the jack stand about 1/8" because i was tightening the bolt instead of loosening it. and my fucking champ of a Craftsman ratchet i got from my dad walked away
One time I wanted to clean my IAC because the idle was getting goofy and there was this funny spindle I thought I could just tear out with some pliers instead of reading the service manual, and it turned out to be made of some funny magnetic alloy or something and it shattered as soon as grabbed it.

>van has significant frame rust, especially around all the jack points
>manual, parking brake doesn't work so I have to leave it in gear
>get it jacked up, remove flat tire, getting ready to put spare on
>van rolls off of jack with no wheel attached
Fortunately I was at home while it happened. Got some wheel blocks after that one.
Its amazing how fast shit can go south. I was taking an exhaust off of a van on Monday and it swung down and took 2 chunks out of my arm. Caught an artery, nearly bled out lol.
Jack it up by major suspension mount points, like e.g. control arm or whatever.
t. rustbelt
bought the wrong wiper blade replacements
File: images (54)(1).jpg (15 KB, 220x260)
15 KB
>open engine bay
>mmh what shall i upgrade today
>decide to replace the breaks
>cock accidentally gets stuck behind the wheel
>car now making 700hp starts launch controlling and absolutely sends it
Van mechanic so everything goes on a ramp/pit. Accidents can still happen to ruin your day tho.
yikes man. tires also work good if it's all rusted to shit because it distributes the weight. kick one under in case the it shifts or falls on you.
Bolt holding on wheel speed sensor came a bit loose, seized and rounded. I'm careful every time, penetrating fluid, tap the bit on, loosen and tighten, loosen and tighten. And this shit happens

No welder to try to weld a nut on, haven't got the right size torx bit to try to hammer on.

Anyone got any advice? It's not seized crazy tight but the metals fairly soft and rusty
Spent a few minutes impacting the nut side with the little tab to hold it in place when I was doing the engine mount, wondered why it’s so tight until I saw that the bolt came out the other way.

Nothing too bad beyond that, I just try to learn from the first time like using an open ended wrench on seized bleeder screws and needing new calipers, but I think even the proper 6pt would’ve fucked those. And first time doing brakes on my own, I didn’t pump the pedal after or clean the rotors and I coasted through the stop sign at the end of the block.
Is that torx or hex?

Get the right size torque, bits are real cheap. There’s the handheld impact drivers too, they’re great for stubborn screws, especially those Honda brake rotor screws and they cost <$20.

There’s extractors, or trying to grip the outside with some vise grips, but tbqhwy, if it was hex and you used the right size and stripped it, those probably won’t work. Last resort would be to drill it, go straight down the center with a smaller bit and step up sizes. Left handed bits are even better for this stuff. Once you get a good chuck of the center of the bolt removed, a lot of tension comes off the bolt and you could try an extractor or whatever and remove it.
If you end up going the extractor route, they sell pic related, a good drill bit to go down the center of the bolt/screw and the extractor you hammer in the hole. Or often times they sell a 10pc set with 5 left handed drill bits and 5 matching extractors.

There are other extractors for those internal hex/torx bits as well, it’s a stubby spiral bit with a hex head on top to grab with a wrench, you can hammer those in, but with extractors, it’s hit and miss because even the best extractors won’t grip a fastener that was seized so bad that the proper tool fucked it up, which is why the left handed drill bits are good to have as a final option. Even if you fuck up with the drill bit and hit the threads, you can clean it up with a tap or helicoil type thing, or drill one size larger and tap it out with a new bolt.
Are you just trying to change the sensor or tighten the bolt?
use a pipe wrench
File: 20210603_121921.jpg (3.34 MB, 4032x3024)
3.34 MB
3.34 MB JPG
I'm in this exact scenario with a different torx bolt. I've tried those extractors that grip the outside if the bolt, they don't work for round bolts. Don't try that. Also tried going monkemode and hammering in the next biggest size, doesn't work. Gonna get a drill bit extractor like >>24192548 this.
This fucking bolt has added a week to my clutch job i stg.
They make pic related if you need to go on the inside of a bolt like that, the extractors you’re talking about are made for external hex bolts, they do better if there is a little bit of a hex left to the bolt. I wouldn’t expect them to grip too wel on a rounded internal hex or torx bolt/screw.

As mentioned before though, if anon had the proper torx key in the beginning and it stripped, the extractors might not have a good shot.
Did you try my suggestion in the other thread. I've literally done hundreds of vag clutches and never needed extractors.
Possibly, I bought two of these kits (metric and inch) neither worked.
I'll look for that >>24192648, whats it called?
Wait, unless you're the one that suggested I break the head off. Yea I tried but i'll need to lift the car up more because the space is too tight to swing my hammer.
There's no tension on the bolt, it got a couple turns loose and sized, I was going slow, loosening and then tightening but just too much.

My mate says the sensors fit snug enough, he ran his for a few months without any screws so yeah, plan is tomorrow to drill it out, see if I can salvage it, if not then just go without

Clean/change the sensor is all
Here's a gruesome closeup for you lot.
I fucking hate internal hex/torx bolt, had the same thing happen to a siezed torx bolt on my transmission pan
I'd chisel the sensor apart, there's a brass ring built into the plastic that the bolt tightens down on. Once you split the ring it'll release the tension and the bolt will be finger tight.
>be working on the old au falcon
>put new battery in
>doing up moutning bracket bolt
>accidentally short on the positive terminal
>engine stalls
>starts right back up
also i changed the fuel filter and got fuel all over myself my hoodie still smells like 98 4 days later lel
The bolts a couple turns loose, it seized on its way out
In that case its rust on the other side of the bolt. If it's not a big job to remove the disc I'd try and wire brush the thread from the other side and use wd40 or heat if you have any.
You could flatten opposite sides of the bolt with an angle grinder and grip it with pliers, though I admit it looks pretty tight
gotta remove the bearing to access the other side of the bolt

don't own an angle grinder, so many tools I need to invest in and so little money :(
Do you have a dremel? You can get grinding tools for it if you do.
I suggested this to vw anon. A 12 point socket is great for hammering onto a torx/allen/spline.
only got a drill :(
sooner or later I'll get a dremel but broke atm, have to pay out £300 to some guy for tapping his front bumper and breaking a parking sensor
You need some quick money? Would you look good in your sisters clothes?
Loosen the nut, yank on it like a gorilla and it’ll pop free, keep the nut on so you don’t punch yourself in the face with the wheel
Use a paint can opener next time
I would look damn hot in my sisters clothes. Not against selling feet pics either
File: f204887992.jpg (979 KB, 3872x2592)
979 KB
979 KB JPG
>18 years old with STi
>Installing Cobb downpipe
>Didn't let it cool down enough before starting the job
>Immediately stripped the fuck out of a warm bolt holding the turbo and downpipe together
Oof, I had to dremel it out and thankfully had someone there to drive me to a store to get a replacement bolt and nut.
>swapping rsb
>left torque wrench inside
>don't need it anyway
>retard strength engage
>fuck bolt right off
and that's why none of my suspension bolts are the same grade metal
one of those reverse threaded screw extractoirs works very well for this
That's not a torx. No wonder you stripped it
Those type that go over the bolt usually bite pretty well, maybe you just have a bad set? I usually hammer them on to the old bolt to get some bite then pop it off
You should be able to get that by tapping on a socket type extractor
I have a 280zx and the oil filter is best removed from the bottom but it’s screwed in from the side. Oil ALWAYS pours out. And the oil filter it came with had to be stabbed with a screwdriver and then torn off with a vice grip wrench.
>pic related but not mine
Trusted the only alignment place to do a good job.
>Put urethane wishbone bushed and longer ball joints in my car.
>Go get it realigned.
>Maybe 3k miles later inner tyres are nearly bald
>Wtf, these tyres only have 5k miles total on them
>Swap tyres back to front, get it checked
>Alignment place checks it, say alignment is good and say "oh maybe the ball joints are bad", theyre only on.
>700 miles later fronts are bald again.
>Have someone just look at the car, my eyes arent deceiving me, shits fucked.
This has happened in the last week, fuck them, going somewhere else.
File: 1444347429849.jpg (45 KB, 500x500)
45 KB
every flare nut fitting on my car is rounded
After the first couple did you think to buy a flare nut spanner?
>need to build new stainless exhaust, don't have a lift, put the car on 4 spare wheels so I can slide under it on my crawler
>build the exhaust over the course of a couple months worth of weekends, at least 10 hours spent under the car itself
>exhaust finished, go to do something in the engine bay, still up on spare wheels
>reefing on something in the engine bay with some force
>car rolls off the spare wheels and crashes through the wooden gate right in front of it
>spent at least 10 hours under a car on spare wheels having forgotten to apply the handbrake

If I had pushed it while I was under the car I would definitely be dead. Fuck I've never felt so stupid in all my life, thank fuck it didn't fall on me.

>exhaust sounds dope too
lol i bought some flare nut wrenches but they're all manufactured like absolute shit so they're loose as fuck
Next time use the flare nut spanner and give it a tap with a spanner.
Keep in mind though often if you use an open ender first you'll warp the nut and then it'll be even harder to undo.
Hahaha give it a tap with a hammer*
I changed the fuel filter in my car a couple weeks back. The plastic clips to hold the lines on didn't come with it, so I reused the old ones. Went out for Chinese, started pulling out of the parking spot when I thought, "I smell gas." Looked over my shoulder and there was a puddle where I was parked. Pulled into the fire lane and hopped out and gas was POURING out.
I got gas all over me trying to get the line back in since it was covering the pavement. Took a couple tries. Now I'm paranoid about it popping off again. I'm not sure if I just didn't have it connected well enough or if it needs new clips, and there doesn't seem to be a part number for those clips. I got another filter from Amazon (for free since they agreed I couldn't return a gas-filled one) and it doesn't have clips either, even though the picture they used clearly shows them.
File: IMG_20210611_193647_608.jpg (461 KB, 1080x1920)
461 KB
461 KB JPG
Update!! Drilled out the head. First time drilling a bolt. Took fucking ages, is that normal or is my drill bit just shit?

Wheel speed sensor pulled out easy after that, cleaned up thread of the studs and tried to use a jamnut to get it out. It's siezed tight, stripped the threads off the end of the stud. No extractor was gonna get it out anyway

Cleaned the sensor and put it back in, fits pretty snug so shouldn't fall out without the bolt or anything
Everytime I do something, I break something. Even if I know what I'm doing.

I give up
>is my drill bit just shit?
Possible, but drilling metal takes a certain technique to be done properly. You can turn a perfectly good drill bit into a ruined bit before getting halfway through the hole if you don’t do it properly.

Remember when drilling metal, go on the lower speed and put some pressure on it. A couple drops of oil or whatever coolant doesn’t hurt either. When you get the little coils of metal coming consistently, you’re doing good.

Metal gets work hardened and drilling makes the metal hot. So if you have a dull bit or you’re going at high speed and low pressure and the bit is creating a ton of heat without cutting, that heat is making the metal at the bottom of that hole extra hard. So if you get it real hot 1/3 the way through the hole, then pull out the bit and try to go at it again, the surface of the metal right there could be harder than the drill bit itself.

Also you can get cobalt bits for drilling metal, they’re super hard and will cut through hardened bolts, but you have to be careful because they’re very brittle and will snap easily if you put too much pressure on them. Most of the time HSS bits (high speed steel) will cut metals fine as long as the drills are sharp and have the proper grind and the metal you’re drilling into isn’t hardened. They’re useful but lots of people buy cobalt bits and still can’t drill regular steel properly because they have shit technique and they end up breaking lots of expensive cobalt bits.
That explains a lot, I used 2 drill bits, first one fast and it was barely drilling, just smoking and I was using penetrating fluid to cool it. I switched to another drill bit (the same type) and strands of metal were coming out for a while before it slowed down and started being like the other one.

So go slow, apply pressure, and don't let it get too hot.
Amazon is a toss up. Maybe the dice roll on actual OEM parts, shitty regular made in commie China, or an even shittier knockoff of the already shitty regular made in commie China. Maybe my $450 jap KOYO radiator will arrive in two weeks so I can drive again. The we sourced to China to make it one so you save $$$ broke (bad welds and chinesium overflow spout both leak).
I’m really getting tired of Chinesium junk now!
>Replacing plugs on transverse V6
>Lefty Loosey, Righty Tighty
>Trying to remove first rear plug, by turning to the "left"
>Won't budge with ratchet, get breaker bar
>still won't budge, put cheater on bar

I'm always very careful of direction now.
Just count your blessings when you have to reach the other bank of cylinders (usually facing the firewall,some have more or less room) and hope there's room for even the slimmest ratchet to fit.
Pull out tv cable on 700 R4 drive 4 blocks
Brick trans

I bought a front and rear bar for a mk2.5 mx5 from their website for 200 euro with some discount codes. Very good stuff for the money
>parents just widened driveway with pave stones
>needed to change transmission fluid on truck
>have drain pan ready
>remove bolt from side of transmission
>large stream of atf (zf5 uses atf) immediately overshoots drain pan
>dirty atf soaks into brand new pavers
Yeah, mom was pissed.
My friend bought a WRX sway bar from them and it came with a massive welding void in it.
Lol exact same thing happened to me, had drain pan underneath, the whack needed to loosen the fill bolt send my pan meters away, then I forgot fluid comes out the fill plug and took it out

I'm retarded
And don't use cheap shitty drill bits. They should be decent HSS (high speed steel) if you plan to drill metal. Cheap bits are made of softer metal and wear out/go blunt very quickly.
135 degree split point for metal too. Most drill bits are 135 split point or 118 degrees, 118 is cheaper to manufacture and not great for metal. And stay away from brad point and stuff for metal, but the packaging for those will probably advertise them as wood and plastic drill bits and not for metal.

HSS is sort of standard, and then you will see “Black Oxide” or “Titanium” or “TiN” advertised on there, but that’s nothing more than a coating on top of the high speed steel. Cobalt is harder than HSS for tough metals, but brittle, and that will often be advertised as M35 or M42 I believe, both are blends of steel with Cobalt and M42 is the harder of the two but you have to be real careful with those in a hand drill. If the package doesn’t say “HSS” or “Cobalt” somewhere, they might be swiss cheese cheap bits.

Oh and one more thing, it’s worth spending a couple doll hairs on a center punch. You use it to make a tiny starter hole so the bit doesn’t walk away at the very beginning. Ans you can start with a small bit and step up sizes if needed.
>be me
>2010 charger
>need to change tires, first time doing it
>3-ton jack with a disc instead of a frame insert
>rocker panels go down past the frame
>plastic rocker panels
>can’t find a place where the jack wouldn’t push the rocker panels and the frame
“Fuck it I guess, the rocker panels are plastic, they’ll probably return to shape after I release the jack”
>jack up one side
>start working on first tire
>friend stops by
“You know the subframe is only a few more inches in, right?”
“The what?”
File: 1613251736977.jpg (876 KB, 2314x2161)
876 KB
876 KB JPG
happened yesterday but related to this day >>24190466
> drive around 100km on the highway
> 100 meters before the destination the registration plate starts dangling on one screw
>luckily screw and nut are still there so i can fix it on the spot
>mfw i used normal nuts instead of the self locking ones i have on hand and use for FUCKING EVERYTHING MOVING
I swear i reached peak stupidity that day
Earlier today

1984 Porsche 944, salvage title, lots of replaced panels but runs amazing.

>Did timing belt and cam tower gasket last week
>Good learning experience, wasn't so bad, especially the timing belt part
>Put it back together, car turns over perfectly
>Where the belts/pullys always that high pitched?
>Over the week fuck with the tension, check various pullys.
>In this process notice one side of the timing belt completely lost tension, other side still tight
>Today, ah fuck it, just crank the tension pully and turn it over to see if I fixed the belt whine
>Turn key
>Turns over
>Loud click, doesn't start, feels like maybe if I gave it gas it could.

Very meticulously searched for the timing mark of the crank, somehow wound up about 4 teeth off from the cam.
Took it all apart, fixed the timing, and tension like I should have in the first place.

It starts, but it idles fairly rough and I've got a clicking that wasn't there previously. I presume I bent something.
Belt whine is still there.
File: 1513091000705.png (81 KB, 409x406)
81 KB
>time to change the oil on my S10!
>drain out old oil
>take off old filter, fill new one with oil and screw back in
>get distracted by something
>time to put in the new oil!
>glug glug
>why the fuck does it sound like someones pissing on the other side of my truck?
>look underneath
>oil spill wider then the truck is
>plug oil pan
>sop up all the oil
>dump the fucking old oil back into the engine
>realize the closest place still open that sells oil is a 20m drive away
>drive to shart-in-mart knowing my engine is being molested with dirty oil
>get new oil
>drive back home and complete the process correctly
File: y35w677n7n.jpg (36 KB, 391x392)
36 KB
>Do brake job
>Absolutlley the most horrible time getting rotor screws out
>Put shit back together
>Forgot to save me the trouble by globbing anti-seize on there.
>Go in there again and do it
>Fucking backing plate is bent JUST LIKE BEFORE
Holy mother lover I am a fucking retard.
you should have gotten a new filter too
yeah i was kind of a fucking retard back then. this is the same truck that lost all its oil to a leak and didnt notice until i saw the oil pressure stupidly fucking low for being in 5th gear at like 2000 rpm. got back home and could hear the lifters clicking. ive learned since then though, thankfully

Delete Post: [File Only] Style:
[Disable Mobile View / Use Desktop Site]

[Enable Mobile View / Use Mobile Site]

All trademarks and copyrights on this page are owned by their respective parties. Images uploaded are the responsibility of the Poster. Comments are owned by the Poster.